I,. ' ■; . 



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Book Tl] ^^ 



Coipght N°_ 



COPyRIGIlT DEPOSIT. 



Sixty Years in California 

A HISTORY OF EVENTS AND LIFE 

IN CALIFORNIA; ^-rfi- 

Personal, Political and Military, 



UNDER THE MEXICAN REGIME ; DURING THE QUASI-MILI- 
TARY GOVERNMENT OF THE TERRITORY 
BY THE UNITED STATES, 



AFTER THE ADMISSION OF THE STATE INTO THE UNION, 



BEING A COMPILATION BY A WITNESS OF THE EVENTS DESCRIBED. 



BY 

WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS. 




SAN FRANCISCO : 
A. J. LEARY, PUBLISHER, 

402-408 Sansome Street. 
1889. 



Copyright, 1889, 

By WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS. 

(All rights reserved.) 



From the Tress and Bindery ov 
A. J. Leary, San Francisco, Cal. 



^ , 



TO 



GEORGE HYDE, 



IN THE YEARS 1847 AND 1848 



FIRST-^LCA^LDE 



OF THE DISTRICT OF SAN FRANCISCO. 



THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY 



The a uthor. 



PREFACE. 

The author came to California in 1831, seventeen 
years before the discovery of gold in Sutter's mill-race, 
and married into a native California family of Spanish 
extraction. He has continued to reside in the depart- 
ment and State ever since, except when absent from it 
on business. 

He has had an extended experience in the manners 
and customs of the people, their methods of trade, of 
the social and political history of the department and 
of its successor, the State, as that history was evolved 
through all the stirring events of that period, to the 
American occupation, down to the present date. There 
is an under-current in social life abounding in genial 
interchange of amenities, which is preserved only in 
tradition, to be recited in family circles, and from this 
source the author has obtaineci much valuable informa- 
tion. All this has enabled him in these personal recol- 
lections, to rescue from oblivion events that are herein 
recorded, narrations of which cannot be found else- 
where. Many of them are instructive, interesting and 
amusing. Instructive, in portraying the vast resources 
of the Department ; its well stocked haciendas and its 
extended commerce. Interesting, in its incidents of 
personal matters ; and amusing in the natural humor 
characteristic of many of the inhabitants. 



PREFACE. 

They also present an insight to the energy, enter- 
prise, trials, misfortunes and triumphs of those men 
who laid the foundation of that prosperity which now 
places California in the front rank, among the most 
favored States of the Union. Many of the partici- 
pants in those occurrences, have passed away from life's 
duties and exertions. The survivors will be able, from 
the perusal of these pages, to attest to the verity of the 
author's representations. 

It has been his sole intent to set forth the facts in 
a clear and distinct manner, consistent with the adage: 
" Truth is mighty and will prevail." 

San Francisco, Cal., May, 1889. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

Page. 
Author's first arrival in California — Engages in local trade and commerce 
with Sitka and the Hawaiian Islands — Appearance of Sitka — Government 
Officers — Social Amenities — At Monterey — Prominent Foreign Residents — 
Author's Second Visit to the Coast — An English Brig Discovered — A Race 
between the Brig and "Volunteer" — The latter Victorious — In Port a "Good 
Time " ensues between the officers of the Respective Vessels — List of Trading 
Vessels — Forts, Military Officers and other Residents of the Bay Shores — 
Sea Otter plenty in San Francisco Bay— Trade Ventures in Different 
Directions i 

CHAPTER II. 

The San Francisco Mission — The Padres as Instructors — Their Possessions 
in Live Stock and Natural Productions — Hostile Indians Captured, Civil- 
ized and Christianized — Goods sold to the Padres, for Hides, Tallow, 
Peltries and Money — Other Missions — San Francisco in 1 833^X1 arriage of 
Thomas O. Larkin on board the "Volunteer," at Santa Barbara — Fes- 
tivities that followed — The "Volunteer" trades to Honolulu — The Author 
Sails on Board to that City 8 



CHAPTER III. 

The Author Returns May. 1838, on the "Don Quixote" — A Protracted 
Battle without Human Bloodshed — At Monterey on the " Don Quixote " — 
Further Enumeration of Trading Vessels — The Voyage to Sacramento — The 
Author's Schooner the Flag Ship — Captain Sutter on Board — He unfolds to 
the Author his Future Plans — The Nativity of Captain .Sutter— A Plague of 
Mosquitos — Captain Sutter Landed — A Salute which Astonishes the Indians 
and Wild Beasts — The Salute Answered with Cheers — Return Voyage — 
Provisions Scarce — Unexpected Food Supply Received 13 

CHAPTER IV. 
More names of Residents around the Bay of San Francisco 21 

CHAPTER V. 

Station of the Russian P\ir Company, anil its Officers — The Force engaged 
Hunting Sea Otters — Value of the Otter .Skins and where they were .Sold — 
Captain .Sutter Purchases the Russian Buildings and Outfits— A Fourth of July 
Celebration in 1839 — Parties in Attendance — Vessel Arrivals in 1839 24 



Viii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VI. 

Page. 

Thousands of Elk on Mare Island — Elk captured with the Lariat by the 

Rancheros — Dangers of the .Sport — Ranchos with Large Herds of Live .Stock — 

Ranches around the Bay in 1838 — Wealth of Bay Residents in Land and 

Live Stock — Indians as Farmers and \'^aqueros — Indian .Steam Baths 28 

CHAPTER VII. 

How the Missions were supported — Cattle Slaughtered mainly for their 
Hides and Tallow — The Portions Preserved for Food — Milch Cows in no 
Demand — The use of Florses — The Gangs into which they were Divided, and 
their Habits while running at large — Wild Horses in San Joaquin Valley — 
Sport had by the Young Men in their Capture with the Lasso 36 

CHAPTER VIII. 

The Cattle tamed by frequent Rodeos — Manner of Collecting the Cattle 
together — Neighboring Rancheros attend the Rodeos to look after their own 
Brands— The Pursuit of Break-away cattle — The Novel Method of Reducing 
them to Obedience — A Rodeo Described — Beef the Chief Food of Californians, 
which accounts for their Health and Longevity 41 

CHAPTER IX. 

Horse Breeding — Instinct of Attachment between the Equine Se.ves — Their 
Uneasiness at .Separation — Grain and Bean Threshing by Mares — A Primitive 
Method 50 

CHAPTER X. 

How Taxes were Imposed for the Support of the Department — Governor 
Alvarado's Order for the Arrest of Americans — The Arrests that were made — 
Verba Buena placed under Martial Law by General Vallejo — Disposition of 
the Arrested Parties- — News of the Arrests sent by Consul Larkin to Wash- 
ington — Action of the United States Government — The Principal Rancheros 
Anticipate the Annexation of California to the United States — The Ques- 
tion only one of Time — Their Reasons for not Earnestly Opposing the Measure. 54 

CHAPTER XL 

Arrest and Release of Nathan Spear — The Author is one of the Arrested — 
While a Prisoner attends an Entertainment — An Attractive Hostess — Further 
action of the Government of the United States concerning the Arrests — A 
General Delivery of Prisoners — An E.vplanation and Disclaimer — The Latter 
probably Insincere 60 

CHAPTER XII. 

Population of the Department in l838-'39, and its Composition — A 
Prominent Frenchman Arrives — His Nervous Impatience causes him to take 
an Impromptu Cold Bath — His Mission Suspected of being one of Observation 



CONTENTS. IX 

Page. 
for the French Govertimenl-He makes a Round of Visits-Captain Sutler 
is Pleased with him-Mutual Respect-His Opinion of the Country and its 
Destiny 



63 



CHAPTER XIII. 
The Priests and the Missions-The Work of Converting Indians-Missions 
under rule of the Mexican Republic-Culture and Attainments of the Priests- 
Father Gonzales-Horses Supplied Gratuitously to the Traders by the 
Rancheros and Padres-The Supercargo sometimes owned his own Horses 
—Manner of Trading with Incoming Vessels-Comforts of the Adobe 
Dwelling-Family Traveling Equipages-Houses and IIouse-keeping-A 
Word of Praise for Native California Ladies-Educational Facilities Scarce 
—Sites Selected for Dwellings ^i 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Indian Treachery-Fighting the Indians-An Indian Arrow Wound ulti- 
mately causes the Death of Comandante Juan Padro Mesa-The Californians 
Early Risers-Daily Customs of the Rancheros-Dress of the Leisure Season 
-Customs of the Native Californian when Mounted-Trappings of his 
Horse-C;allantry in the Saddle-Habits of the Household-Gray-headed 
Persons Scarce-A Contented People-Class Distinctions-Courtesy a 
Common Thing-Home Entertainments-The Dancing Endurance of the 
Native California Women-The Author takes a Whirl in the Waltz-Sur- 
prising Feats of Horsemanship-Upsetting a Bull-Concerning the Double 
Marriage of Don Jose Martinez-He proves a True Philanthrophist-Dies, ^^ 
and has an Immense Funeral 

CHAPTER XV. 
Horse Racing as an A.nusement-Bull Fighting-Lassoeing Bears by the 
Wholesale-A Night of Horror to the Author-Don Vicente exhibits his skill in 
Throwing Cattle-Gambling not a Vice with the Native Californians-Their 
Promptitude in Business Transactions-Pride Supported their Honesty 9S 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Rank of the Mexican Civil Officers and their Powers-Military Officers- 
Their Duties-The Junta Departmental-Land Grants, Why and How 
Bestowed-Officers appointed for San Francisco-How Justice was Adm.n- 
istered-The Governor's Powers-The Alcaldes were Capable Officers-Their 
Insignia of Office-Governor Alvarado-IIe is held in Esteem by the I-oreign 
Residents-General Castro as a Military Man-General Vallejo-His Courtesy 
to Visitors and Strangers-A Sleep on a Cold Night without Blankets- 
General Vallejo skilled as a Horseman, and expert with the Lasso-Allu- 
sion to Don Pablo de la Guerra, Don Jose Antonio Carillo, Mr. Alfred 
Robinson and Don Manuel Jimeno-Dona Augusta Jimeno, a High-spirited 
and Patriotic Lady-Dona Ramona Wilson, a Lady of great Hospitality. . . . 103 



oc CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Page- 

A Post erected at Yerba Buena in 1841 by the Hudson's Bay Company — Rae 

occupies a Portion of the Building — Rae a Genial Man — A Particular Game 

of Cards — Favorite Games of the People — The Hudson's Bay Store as a 

Place of Resort — A Wrestling Contest — Rae Vanquished — Rae held in much 

Respect — Bob Ridley and his Doings — Brandy gets him in the End — Rae 

proves an Unfaithful Husband — Ends his Life by .Suicide — A new Agent at 

the Post, who closes out the Business to Melius & Howard 115 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Commodore Wilkes and Fleet visit the Pacific Coast Waters in 1841 — A 
Survey of the Sacramento River is made — Captain .Sutter Visited — He Enter- 
tains the Surveyors Bounteously — Commodore Wilkes as Gentleman and Officer 
■ — General Vallejo visits Wilkes — He receives a Salute — The Commodore has 
other Distinguished Visitors — The Commodore gives Interesting Descriptions 
of his Pacific Explorations — Interchange of Visits between the Officers of the 
Fleet and of Fort Ross — The Fleet Secures its Supplies from Spear, which 
enables the Author to become Intimate with its Officers — A Jolly .Set — Com- 
modore Wilkes is too Busy to Participate in the Current Festivities — Spear 
and the Commodore become Intimate — .Spear was the First Merchant in Yerba 
Buena — He is Profuse in his Praises of the Country's Resources and Climatic 
Advantages to his Eastern Correspondent — He Declines to become a Mexican 
Citizen — Visit of British War .Ships to the Bay — A Design Suspected of 
Prompting the Visit — Movements that are watched by Commodore Wilkes. . . 122 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Captain Eliab Grimes — The Mexican Government has no Revenue Cutters 
to prevent Otter Hunting — Captain Bancroft presumes too much upon the for- 
bearance of his Alaskan Hunters — Reprimands them Severely and Loses his 
Life — The Hunters are Pacified — The Mate takes the Vessel to Alaska — 
Discharges the Hunters and proceeds to Honolulu — A British ship Arrives 
in San Francisco Bay on a .Surveying Expedition — The result of the 
Captain's Labors is kept Secret — The Object Apparent^ — Captain Wm. A. 
Leidesdorff" comes to California in 1841, in the Schooner "Juliann" — 
The Author becomes Supercargo of the "Don Quixote," Captain John 
Paty — Sails to Honolulu with a Vessel Load of Hides — That City a Central 
Mart for the Pacific Ocean Trade 135 

CHAPTER XX. 

The " Don Quixote " returns to San Francisco, and becomes a Coast Trader 
— A Misunderstanding with the Customs Officers — Smuggling Operations Dis- 
covered but not Reported — Escape from the Surveillance of the Sub-Prefect 
— A Profitable Night's Work— Explanation why the Merchants at one time 
Violated the Mexican Revenue Laws — Clever Tricks to avoid the Customs 
Taxes — The First Steam Saw Mill — It is Located in the Bodego Lumber 
Region — A New Firm Established at San Diego — The Author leaves the 
" Don Quixote," and becomes an Agent of the Firm at Yerba Buena — 
Business Lively 141 



CONTENTS. xi 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Pagb. 

The American Occupation of Monterey, in 1842, by Commodore Jones— A 
Graphic Description of the Capture— A Mistake- -Relinquishment of the 
City— The Commodore's Action Sustained by the Government— A Mexican 
Vessel brought to by a Shot across her Bow— Flying False Colors— A Sur- 
render—Lady Prisoners of War— The Author's Wife was One of Two— She 
Describes the Situation — Surrender of Monterey — A Wail in the Town — 
Commodore Jones gives to the People Assurances of Protection to Life and 
Property — A Pleasant Interview with the Commodore — He Relates the Story 
of 'his Proceedings at Monterey— The Great Responsibility he Felt led to his 
Mistake— Glad there was no Occasion for Hostilities— Favorably Impressed 
with California— Proud of being the First to Raise the American Flag over 
the Soil— Felt Assured the Country would Some Day pass into American 
Possession 'S' 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Stay at Monterey— A Musical Treat— A Present of Wine to the Naval 
Officers— A Consular Entertainment at Monterey— The Enjoyment General 
—Commodore Jones the Right Man in the Right Place— His Popularity — 
Leniency Improperly Bestowed— Base Ingratitude— Fast trip of the Frigate 
"United States" to Honolulu and Back— A Family Party visits the Ship 
"Cyane" — An Agreeable Surprise— Hearty Congratulations— An Enjoyable 
Feast— Commodore Jones as a Hunter of Small Game— The " Cyane" Leaves 
for Monterey 102 

CHAPTER XXIIL 

Commodore Jones and Officers make a Visit to Governor Micheltorena at 
Los Angeles— A Talk about the Capture of Monterey— An Amicable Under- 
standing arrived at — A Grand Banquet Succeeds — The Officers, by Invita- 
tion, call on Don Louis Vigne — They Inspect his Cellars, Vineyards, and 
Sample his Wine— They are Presented with Several Barrels of the Same — 
Nativity of Don Louis — A Pioneer, and the Most Noted Viticulturist — The 
First to Raise Oranges in Los Angeles — Devoted to His Business — Extent 
of his Vineyards Nine Years after— His Predictions of California becoming 
a Wine-producing Country — Don Louis as an Old Man— A Pride to the State, 
Generous to the Poor, and Liked by Every One — Impossible to Bestow too 
much Praise on his Memory 168 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

A Few Names of the Earliest Comers to California— A Homely Husband 
and Handsome Wife— A Lady with Long and Beautiful Hair- Race Improve- 
ment by Intermarriage — Captain Thomas M. Robbins and His Cook — 
J.J. Warner — He becomes a Prominent Man in the State 173 



xii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Page. 

A Revolution — General Castro Joins Alvarado — Troops at their Old Tricks 
— A Skirmish and a Retreat — Los Angeles taken by Alvarado — A Division of 
Sentiment — The Leaders of the Separate Columns — The People Opposed 
to Strife — Alvarado its Moving Cause — Why and Where he found his Allies 
— Alvarado resorts to Impressment — General Vallejo Non-committal — • 
Micheltorena is joined by General Sutter with Fifty or Sixty Riflemen — 
The Author Custodian of Alexander Bell's Treasure and Goods — Cannon- 
ading Heard — A Battle Ensues — Apprehension of the People for the Safety 
of Relatives — Anguish of the Women — A Long but Bloodless Battle — 
Micheltorena Capitulates and Agrees to Leave the Country 178- 

CHAPTER XXVL 

After the Battle — Intermingling of the Hostile Parties — The Author has 
another Interview with Captain Sutter — A Talk over Old Times — James 
McKinlay becomes a Mediator between the Hostile Leaders — Condition of 
the Settlement — General Vallejo Supplanted as Commander-in-Chief by 
General Castro — Generous Forbearance of General Micheltorena — Reason why 
the Conflict was Bloodless — Don Pio Pico becomes Provisional Governor of 
the Department — The "Don Quixote" Chartered as a Transport — Michel- 
torena and Troops Depart upon Her — The Author on Board as Supercargo 
— Micheltorena Talks about the Battle — His Appearance as a Soldier — His 
Accomplishments — Reflections on what has been Related — Alvarado as an 
Intriguer — The Voyage to San Bias — Micheltorena Wishes to Amend Paty's 
Fortunes — The Governor's First Arrival in the Department —Diversions 
Coming North from San Diego 185. 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Native Cahfornians and Indians seldom Intermarried — The Padres at the 
Missions had a Care over Unfortunate Children — Settling Book Accounts at 
Santa Anita — A Singular Vow — Fine Looking Native Californians — An 
Eccentric Octogenarian — He is the Head of a Numerous Family — Continued 
Enumeration of Noted Caliiornians— A Skilled Markswoman — Limantour 
appears on the Scene — His Vessel goes Ashore near Point Reyes — His Silks 
flntl Ready Sale— A Cargo of Cattle Shipped to Marquesas and Society Islands, 
for Breeding Purposes — A Drunken Brawl —The old Mission of San Luis 
Rey and its Priests — Penance Performed in Food-mixing — A Sententious 
and Devout Octogenarian 195. 

CHAPTER X.W III. 

William Sturgis Hinckley Arrives in 1838 — He and Governor Alvarado 
become Good Friends — A Good Joke — Hinckley goes to Callao — He Returns 
as the owner of the Brig " Corsair" — 1 le becomes a Permanent Resident, and 
Marries — Is Elected Alcalde of San Francisco District — Makes a Capable 
and Popular Officer — He Constructs a Much-needed Bridge — A Survey of 



CONTENTS. xm 

Page. 
Verba Buena is Ordered and Streets laid out— Dies in June, 1846— Fran- 
cisco Guerrero "becomes an Alcalde— Is afterwards Appointed Sub-Prefect— 
His Good Nature to Spear and the Author while under Arrest— Ilis Efficiency 
and Impartiality as an Officer— He Secures a Land Grant at Half Moon Bay 
—Is one of the Real Founders of San Francisco— His Murder and the 
Reason for it ^°5 

CHAPTER XXIX. 

A Record of Vessel Arrivals at Verba Buena and Monterey— Method 'of 
Collecting Cargoes— How Hides were Cured and Loaded Aboard— \Yhalers 
come into Port for Water and other Supplies— The sort of Vegetables to be 
Planted for the Whalers— Reception given to Deserters from on Shipboard- 
Farmers Anticipate the Arrival of the Whaleships— Local Trade with them 
—Ingenious Manner of Concealing Goods from Custom House Inspection- 
Politics Excitedly Discussed— Captain Eliab Grimes Relates an Experience 
—An Expression of Yankee Pluck— The Captain Secures a Land Grant— 
His Death ^'^ 

CHAPTER XXX. 

The First Discovery of Gold— Where and by Whom Discovered— It serves as 
Currency— Large Amounts of the Metal in Circulation— Promoting the Immi- 
gration of Women to Equalize the Sexes— Inducement for Young Men to 
Marry Early— The Draft of Voung Men for the Army Relentless— An 
Anecdote of the Draft— A Flight to Avoid it-The Draft Deemed Needless 
—Salmon Catching— The Occupation made Profitable— Nathan Spear the 
Originator of Salmon Fishing for Commerce— Parrott's 111 Luck— His 
Vessel Wrecked— No Lives Lost— Part of the Cargo Saved— The Benefit 
of Packing Goods Securely— Looting Goods— Captain J. B. R. Cooper's 
Share in the Spoils ^^^ 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

Gold known to Exist in the Sacramento Valley long before the Discovery 
at Sutter's Mill— Indians brought it into the Missions— They told the Padres 
Where it was Found— A Couple of Priests— They Differ in Character— Are 
Both Friendly to the Author— Father Mercado Understood Good Living— 
Both Priests speak Concerning the Existence of Gold— They could not be 
Convinced that it would be Proper to Publish the Secret to the World— An 
Old and Faithful Aboriginee gives Information of an Intended Indian 
Outbreak— The Report Doubted— It is Confirmed by a Sudden and Unex- 
pected Attack— Three Men Killed— Indians Break into the House— The 
Mistress saved by the Interposition of the Old Indian Woman— She is Dis- 
robed and Turned Loose— The Daughters taken into Captivity—The 
Mother's Brutal Treatment— Her Little Son Spreads News of the Savage 
Performances— Further Fiendish Acts Threatened— The General Conster- 



nation 



231 



xiv CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XXXII. 

Page. 
How the Freaks of an Inebriated Man Frightened the Indians Off — The 
Indians Pursued — An Indian Spy is Captured — Tells of the Fright Occasioned 
to the Indians, and is Shot — An Attempt to Recapture the Daughters Fails — 
The Brothers Wounded and compelled to Retreat^The Girls Never Re- 
covered — Further Indian Exploits — The Savages are Chastised — Residents 
at San Diego in 1838 — Miss Alvarado — Her Knowledge of the Indian 
Language Enables Her to Detect a Fiendish Plot — The Indian Plan for a 
Massacre— A Company Organized for Defense — The Conspirators Lassoed 
and Secured — They Confess their Guilt and are Shot — A Cannon Bor- 
rowed by the Californians for Defense — Another Confession by a Spy, after 
Mutilation — His Subsequent Fate — The Indians are Surprised — A Battle 
in which they are Defeated — An Indian Night Attack upon the Residence 
of Don Santiaguito Arguello — It is Unsuccessful — Indian Depredations — 
James Berry gets a Land Grant, and Stocks it — A Bay and Shore Celebra- 
tion of the Fourth of July 238 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 

A Cargo of Panocha brought by Captain Dare in the Ship " Dread naught " 
— John Perry Tells Interesting Stories of Central America — Precautions against 
Smuggling^Spear Influences Perry for a Motive — Privileges Granted to 
Merchants by Governor .-Mvarado — Perry Dies at Realejo — Pisco and other 
Goods Arrive from Peru — Hinckley Talks too Much and is Arrested— 
Nothing is Proved against Him, and He is Discharged — The First Grist 
Mill at Verba Buena — The Manner of Operating it — The Second Mill at 
San Jose — Native Mode of Grinding Flour — Something about the Verba 
Buena Miller — Captain Miguelon — His Characteristics and Cargo — An 
Offer Declined— Dangerous Passage of a Swollen Stream— A Thrilling In- 
cident of the Crossing — Stetson in Peril — He has a Narrow Escape — More 
High Water— Detention of a Bridal Party in Consequence — The First 
Steamer on the Bay— Something about "Jim Crow Smith," an Eccentric 
Character— His Dexterity as a Pistol Shot— He makes a Savage Misuse of 
the Weapon — Dies by Suicide 246 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Remembrances of Doiia Encarnacion Altamirano — The Discovery of Blossom 
Rock — An East Indian Trader Strikes on the Rock — Gets off without 
Material Injury — Respect of Native California Children for their Parents — 
The Cigarito Smoking Habit — Cases in Point — Wine Drinking Permitted — 
Filial Affection — Further Concerning Native California Habits — Relating to 
Courtship and Marriage — The Division of Horses into caponcias, on Account 
of Color — Incidents connected with a Bridal Party— The Dull Season — 
Camping on Goat Island — How the Islana Derived the Name — The Author's 
Losing Speculation — Old Jack Fuller as Cook and Story Teller 260 



CONTENTS. XV 

CIIArTER XXXV. 

Page. 

Camping at the Ocean beach— Strawberry Patches— Don Francisco Guerrero 

gives a Grand " Blow-out" — Howard Amuses an Audience — His Talent as an 

Amateur Actor — Strawberry Campings Popular — Paty becomes Prominent 

in Business Transactions— He establishes a Line of Packets between San 

Francisco and Honolulu -His Hundredth Voyage between San Francisco 

and Honolulu Celebrated— Theodore Cordua Arrives— Becomes a Mexican 

Citizen and obtains a Grant of Land — He is a Genial Companion — Wm. C. 

Flugge's Movements— Change in Character of the Native Californians — 

Reasons Therefor — Litigation Involved by Change of Government— The 

Natives Fleeced by Sharpers — Demoralizing Effect of their Outrageous 

Treatment — An Interview with Widow Paty — A Coincidence of Names — 

More of Captain and Mrs. Paty— The Husband had been Christened 

" Commodore" by the Hawaiian King — Discriminating l)etween Debtors — 

A Generous-hearted Creditor- -The Hunters and Trappers Reliable ]SIen — 

Wilkes and Paty — The Incident of a Dancing Party 270 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

A Self-assertive Woman, but Good and Honest— The Carnival Season — 
The Amusement of Breaking Egg-shells over the Head— Entertainments of the 
Carnival Season— Observance of the Holy Days— An Evening on Board the 
"Alert," with Captain Wm. D. Phelps— The Latter gives an Account of his 
Journey to Jerusalem — His High Appreciation of the Visit— Captain Phelps 
as a Hunter— He often Writes East in Praise of California— He also becomes 
a Favorite with Commodore Wilkes— Boston the First to Learn of the 
Country's Vast Resources 286 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Observing Christmas Eve by Turkey Shooting— The Rash and Dangerous 
Folly of Captain Phelps — The Author's Father Arrives on the Coast — Some 
time after. His Mother also— The Former trades between Honolulu and China 
—He opens a Lively Trade on this Coast at Refugio— The Padres chief among 
the Traders — Otter Hunting — The Russians Manifest a Disposition to en- 
croach upon the Rights of the Padres— The Vessel Visited by a Military 
Official in full dress— The Goods of the Vessel bring in a Golden Harvest — 
How Captain Meek's Herds Increased from the Gift of Four Cattle — His 
Manner of Improving the Herds — Great Age Changes a Horse's Color — 
Captain Meek makes a Quick Trip with the " Don Quixote " from Callao, 
Peru, to Honolulu— The Ship Noted as a Fast Sailer 294 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

The Mi.-,sions Well-Stored — The Padres good at Bartering— Reciprocity of 
Interests between tlie Missions — A Community of Property — A Word of 
Praise lor the Padres — Best Otter Hunters from the Southern States — Names 
of Some of the Early Hunters and Trappers — A Trade in Otter Skins — The 
Method of their Preservation — Constant Hunting Diminished the Otter Skin 
Supply— The Christian Name used as a Designation — A Sketch of a Surgeon 



xvi CONTENTS. 

Pag . 

— He Visits and Explores the Hawaiian Islands — His Sudden Disappearance 
— His Body Found in a Cattle-pit — Purity of Character in Native California 
Women— Punishment for a Stain on it — Indian Mode of Bear-hunting — A 
Well-preserved California Lady — Her Plan and Offer of Aid to President- 
elect Juarez is Gratefully Appreciated — The Lady's Husband proves Valorous 
in Battle 304 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Concerning Wm. D. M. Howard, an Early Comer to the State, who After- 
wards made his Mark — Displays his Superior Business Qualifications — Becomes 
a Trader Up and Down the Coast — Is a Humorist — Fond of His Joke — En- 
gages in Business with Melius — The American Flag Hoisted on Portsmouth 
Square — It is Run Up at Other Places, but Compelled to be Taken Down — 
The Author and Howard Overhauled —Taken to the Guard House — Hospit- 
ably Entertained as Prisoners —Howard as a Mimic— Full of Innocent Mis- 
chief — The Merry Gift of Commodore Biddle — -Howard as a Generous Host — 
Remarkable Results of Drinking water from the Polin Spring — Mrs. Howard 
Dies at Honolulu — Howard Marries a Second Time — A Child by this 
Marriage still Survives — The Firm of Melius, Howard & Co. — It does an 
Immense Business — Sam. Brannan Manages a Branch of the Establishment at 
Sutter's Fort 314 

CHAPTER XL. 

Foresight of Quartermaster Folsom — He Slips Off to the West India Islands 
and Purchases from the Heirs the Entire Leidesdorff Estate in California — The 
Author Becomes a I^ocal Officer of San Francisco — Howard Forms a Military 
Company — An Incident of Recognition — Disputing a Man's Identity — How- 
ard Crippled Financially by the Great Fire of 1851 — The Increase in Real 
Estate Values Restores Ilim to Wealth — A Spiteful Lawsuit Instituted by 
Melius Against Howard — It is Soon Abandoned for Good Cause — Howard a 
Generous Contributor to Charity — He and Melius Present the City a Fire 
Engine— A Fire Company Organized with Howard as Foreman — Howard 
Dies in 1855 — Tokens of Respect to His Memory 322 

CHAPTER XLI. 

Some Political History— The First Wharf — Privileges Granted to it — A vast 
Fleet of Trading Vessels in the Bay — A Splendid Spectacle — The Business 
Bustle on Shore — The Scene as a Panorama — A Patriarchal mode of Governing 
the Mission Indians — Their Cleanliness under Discipline — Yoscolo, an 
Educated Indian, proves Treacherous — Outbreak of the Savages — Yoscolo 
their Leader — They Break into the Mission Convent, and carry off 200 
Indian Girls — Yoscolo joins Stanislaus, another Educated Chief, in the 
Mariposa Mountains — Their United Forces Formidable — The Indians break 
into, and Plunder tlie Mission of Santa Clara — The Savages retire to the 
Santa Cruz Mountains — Prado Mesa musters a Hundred Men to March 
against Them — A Battle PInsues — Mesa gains a Victory — Yoscolo is Taken 
and Beheaded on the Spot— The Killed and Wounded — Yoscolo's Head 
displayed as a Trophy 330 



CONTENTS. xvu 

CHAPTER XLII. 

Page. 

Chief Stanislaus is Pursued and Overtaken by Castro — An Outbreak of the 
Indians at Clear Lake — They are Slaughtered without Mercy — Arrow Poison- 
ing — The Methods of Counteracting its Effect — The Trouble of Land Squat- 
ters — A Timely and Skillful use of the Reata, and a Fortunate Rescue — 
Dangers and Benefits of the Reata — Two Illustrative Incidents — A Wealthy 
Land, Horse and Cattle Owner — Members of his Family Designated — A Close 
Dealer — Pompous on First Acquaintance, but Easily Softened — Exhibits his 
Moneyed Treasures to the Author — The Owner tells how he Acquired Them 
— Does a Bartering Business on his own Account — The Wealthy Man makes 
Further Purchases from the Author — Robbed by his Sons — His Character as 
a Money Broker — The sort of Security he Required on Loans-rTime and 
Manner of Herding and Transferring Cattle 34^ 

CHAPTER XLIH. 

Several Arrivals from Boston by Sea — A Party on Shipboard — Sad Fate of 
Captain Vincent — Thomas B. Park comes out to San Francisco — Dies Soon 
After — Active Competition in the Vessel Trade of the Port — First Arrival of 
Melius — Robinson's Dislikes — Melius goes East and Returns — His Precision 
and Caution as a Business !Man — Melius gets Married — Sells out his Business 
■ — Goes East again — Returns and Locates at Los Angeles — A Constructive 
Insult Offered his Wife at a Dancing Party, by an Officer of the Army named 
Bonnycastle — Melius Challenges Bonnycastle — A Friend offers Himself as a 
Substitute to Fight for Melius — The Duel Comes Off— Bonnycastle Shot in 
the Hand — Melius Fails in Health — Changes in the Melius Business Firm. . . 352 

CHAPTER XLIV. 

Sharp Practice in Trade — The Rancheros' Favoritism between Bidders — 
Drying Hides Extempore — Expedients adopted by a Ranchero to Fill an Order 
— Business Rivalry no Cause for Ill-feeling — Frank and George Melius come to 
California — ^The Former Marries Here — A Lady's Sarcastic Response — List 
of Vessels sent out to Melius — Don Jose Antonio Aguirre as a Trader on the 
Coast — Other Incidents in his History — He gets an Insight into the Animus 
of Professional Quarrels among American Lawyers, and other American 
Customs — He Opposes the Annexation of Cuba in Vigorous Language 359 

CHAPTER XLV. 

A New Arrival on the Scene, in the Person of Miguel dc Pedrorena — Some- 
thing Concerning Him — He Assists in getting Horses for Stockton's Command 
— Displays Bravery in Battle — Ingenious Device of Gale and Robinson to Dis- 
pose of a Cargo of Merchandise — Indians as Boat-Builders, Boatmen and 
Otter Hunters — A Vessel Seized — Her Cargo Confiscated — A Knock-down 
on Board — Thompson, the Supercargo, Borne off and Imprisoned— The 
Cargo Released and Thompson Set Free — Suicide of Henry Paty at Sea — 
Everett Arrives Again on the Bark "Tasso"-— An Exceptionally Disagreeable 
Man 366 



xviii CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XLVI. 

Page. 
Young Pacheco and his Studies^His Wealthy Family meets with Misfortune 
in the Loss of Live Stock, in the Drouth of 1864— Statement of the Export 
Trade in Hides and Tallow— Estimate of Tallow Exportation — Signaling 
from Shore for Vessels in the Harbor to come for Fresh Beef — Places for 
Slaughtering Cattle — A Ludicrous Gastronomic Contest — Vioget afterwards 
Employed by the Author as Captain of the " Euphemia." 375 

. CHAPTER XLVH. 

An Attempted Partnership Fails— E. & H. Grimes and the Author Purchase 
the "Euphemia" — Sheisput into the Honolulu Trade — A Visit to Gen. Castro 
— Business Shrewdness — A Gift that is appreciated— The Author Auspiciously 
Inaugurated as a Merchant — Ingratiates himself by Firing a Salute from the 
Vessel— Guests present at a Party on Shipboard — A Customs Officer afraid of 
Scorpions — The Custom House used as a Salesroom — Transactions of Mutual 
Accommodation between Merchants, the Customs Officers and Mexican 
Government — The Pleasant Surprise of Captain Grimes 383 

CHAPTER XLVIII. 

The American Flag Hoisted at Monterey — The English Government Cir- 
cumvented — A Welcome to "American Soil" — Incidents preceding the Flag- 
hoisting — Admiral Seymour Outwitted — Sloat's Hesitancy — Urged by Mervine 
to Act without Delay — Commodore Stockton arrives in the " Congress," to 
Relieve Commodore Sloat — The "Congress" Anchors in San Francisco 
Harbor — The Author and Mervine Cultivate an Acquaintance — A Favorable 
Impression of Commodore Stockton — A Grand Reception Tendered him on 
Shore — The Commodore shown around by a Mounted Escort — The Influential 
Native Californians Accept the Situation Gracefully — Revolt of the "Baser 
Sort," in the Southern Portion of the State — Captain Mervine of the "Savan- 
nah," then at Monterey, is sent under Orders to Suppress it — A Battle 
Ensues — Captain Mervine's Forces driven back to their Vessels 393 

CHAPTER XLIX. 

Commodore Stockton's Fleet — Fremont Joins the Commodore with his 
Troops — A Commendation of Captain Montgomery — His Successor a Ditiferent 
Sort of Man — Melancholy Fate of Captain Montgomery's Two Sons — The 
" Euphemia " Arrives from Honolulu with a Large and Varied Cargo of Goods 
— Rum in Demand— A Fitting Out Suitable for Army and Navy Uses — Lar- 
kin Made Prisoner— Mrs. Larkin Despondent in Consequence — Bartlett 
and Pickett Arrested— Still a Demand for Rum and Other Liquors— A 
Christmas Dinner Eaten in Bunks— Money Plenty— A Man of Self Impor- 
tance—An Anecdote Concerning Him— Fremont's Battalion Marches South- 
Why the Author was Sent for by Fremont — The General is in Want of Sup- 
plies—They arc Furnished by the Author 405 



CONTENTS. xix 

CHAPTER L. 

Page. 
Stockton Becomes Impatient at Fremont's Delay — Forms a Militar}' Camp at 
Old San Diego — The Military Musicians Entertain the California Ladies at 
Dances — The Sailors and Marines are Drilled for Battle — General Kearney 
Arrives near San Diego — Sufferings of Kearney's Men — Kearney's Pluck — It 
Proves to be Ill-Advised — He is Attacked by the Californians and Worsted — 
Accomplishments of Don Andres Pico as a Military Officer — A Hazardous 
Mission Successfully Accomplished by Lieutenant Beale — Stockton Sends Rein- 
forcements to Kearney, who is brought in, with his Wounded, to San Diego — 
Stockton Prepares for a Battle — A Conflict of Authority — March of the Col- 
umn — ^The Californians Encountered in Force — Attacks and Repulses of the 
Enemy — The Killed and Wounded — Account of the Battle 417 

CHAPTER LI. 

Retreat of the Californians — They are Intercepted by and Capitulate to 
Fremont — The Conquerors march into Los Angeles to the Music of the " Star 
Spangled Banner" — Dispersion of the California Troops — Fremont appointed 
Governor of California — He Arrives at Los Angeles — Exchange of Courtesies 
on Vessels at Sea — The Author takes Advantage of the Situation by Prosecut- 
ing Trade — American Soldiers unused to the Spear Thrust — Good Angels to 
the Wounded Soldiers — A Young Man who Wounded Kearney Extolled for 
his Bravery — The First California Sugar-cane — A Generous Tender of Riding 
Animals Accepted — The Tender Repeated by the Accomplished Widow of 
Don Tomas Yorba — The Lady's Foresight in Preparing a W^ay with Horses 
for Crossing a Swollen Stream — The Author makes a Purchase of Wine from 
the Fair Widow — The Author calls at Fremont's Headquarters for a Settle- 
ment of his Claim— A Delay Asked for and Granted — Again put off — The 
Great Man cannot be Seen ; but at last Condescends to Transact the Author's 
Business — The Papers he Signed are Transferred — Stockton a Different Sort 
of a Man — His Promptitude in Securing the Payment of Creditors' Claims 
against the Government — His Ripe Judgment as a Military Commander 428 

CHAPTER LII. 

A Harsh Sentence Relented— A Mark of Credit to Fremont — A Reflection 
by Native Californians upon the Mexicans and Mexican Government — -The 
Author Continues Trade by Vessel — The Passengers on Board — Head-Winds 
and a Slow Voyage induce Owner and Passengers to make a Land Journey to 
their Point of Destination — Their Vessel beats them to Monterey — A Profit- 
able Trade Venture^ — The Author Sails for Honolulu— Money on Board for 
Grimes — None for Consul Abell — The Money for Grimes just in Time — 
Honolulu gets the Benefit of a Large Marine Commerce from the Pacific 
Coast 440 

CHAPTER LIII. 

Celebrating the Centennial of the Foundation of the Mission Dolores and of 
the City of San Francisco — Rev. Father Junipero Serra, President of the 
Franciscan Missionaries, in Charge of the Missions in California — The Port 



XX CONTENTS. 

Page. 
of San Francisco Discovered, A. D. 1769 — The Mission Founded October 
8, 1776 ; the Presidio Three Weeks Before — The Country Never before Inhab- 
ited by Civilized Man — Indians Buried in the Darkness of Paganism — The 
Code of Recopilacion de Leges de Indias established by the Spanish Sovereigns 
to Protect the Rights of Indians — If in Rebellion, the Indians to be Reduced 
with Mildness and Peace, Without War, Theft or Deaths — A Detailed Nar- 
ration of the Primitive History of the Presidio, Mission and Pueblo of San 
Prancisco . . 447 

OHAPTER LIV. 

First Experience of a Novice at Tea Drinking — Goods for the Missionaries 
on the Hawaiian Islands — Trade between the Islands and China — Loss of the 
Brig "Griffin" — A Maritime Race from Santa Barbara to Monterey — Wines 
Shipped to California in Small Quantities to Improve in Flavor by the Sea 
Voyage — Mrs. Paty presented with a Cask of Wine by Don Louis Vigne— She 
Ships it to Honolulu with the Same Object — How the Bulk of the Wine was 
Diminished without the Knowledge of its Owner 483 

CHAPTER LV. 

Lieutenant Bartlett of the " Portsmouth " appointed First-Alcalde at Verba 
Buena — George Hyde appointed Second-Alcalde — He resigns the Alcaldeship 
after a Two Days' Service, and is appointed First-Alcalde by Captain Hull — 
Resigns a Second Time — Bartlett the first Elected Alcalde — He beats Bob 
Ridley for the Office, badly — Bartlett is ordered on Board his Vessel, and 
Hyde again becomes Alcalde — The name of Verba Buena changed to San 
l-'rancisco by Governor Kearney — Petty Charges in regard to a Land Grant 
and Alleged Changes in Map and Survey of Lots — Don Jose Ramon Carillo 
Encounters a Bear in the Woods — A Fight Ensues — Carillo Slays his 
Antagonist — Don Jose Ramon has Further Experience with a Bear — Don 
Jose Ramon Carillo Waylaid and Shot Dead by an Unknown Assassin — -Dona 
Encarnacion Peralta Witnesses the Capture of a Bear 490 

CHAPTER LVI. 

A Voyage projected by the Author to Callao, Peru, with a Valuable Cargo — 
How it was Frustrated — Supercargo Sherman makes a Judicious Investment in 
Goods at Honolulu, and Returns with them in the "Nick of Time"^The 
" Euphemia " Sold to the City of San Francisco — The Vessel was Noted 
for Profitable Ventures and Good Luck — Major Reading, the Author and 
Others Embark in a Flour Speculation to Oregon — The Vessel Employed 
Reaches her Point of Destination ; Secures a Cargo, but is Frozen in on the 
Columbia River — The Brooklyn Arrives from New Vork in 1846, with 230 
Passengers — Sam. Brannan was on Board, at the Head of an Organized Mili- 
tary Company — It was their Intention to Hoist the American Flag, but they 
were a Little too Late — Many of the New Comers were Mechanics, and the 
Humof Industry was Soon Heard — Mr Brannan Extolled as Laying the Corner- 
stone of San Francisco's Future Prosperity — Vessels Arrive by the Dozen 
from all Parts of the World — The Author Purchases a Sample of Scale Gold 
Dust from a Couple of Miners — Its Purity Doubted — It Stands the Acid Test 



CONTENTS. xxi 

Page. 
— Gold Weighing Scales in Demand — Arrival of the First Gold-Seekers — A 
Broadside Salute from the Pacific Squadron then in Port — Alfred Robinson, 
First Agent of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company — He Still Survives 
Beyond the Age of Four Score Years — A Night Alarm — Safety Sought by 
Frightened Women — Ruffianly Work of the " Hounds " — Mr. Brannan Takes 
the Lead in a Movement Against the Desperadoes — Patrols Organized and 
Parade the Streets for Weeks — The "Hounds" when Identified, were 
Arrested, Ironed and Placed on Board the Ship " Warren" to Await Trial — 
Hall McAllister Appeared Against Them — A Tribute to McAllister — Mr. 
Maynard Makes a Survey which Demonstrates the Possibility of Navigating 
the Sacramento River with a Vessel of 600 or 800 Tons Burden — He Goes East 
and Forms a Syndicate which Purchases the "Senator" — When the Vessel 
Arrives in the Bay Mr. Brannan as Spokesman of a Partnership of Four, 
Offered $250,000 in Gold Dust for the "Senator," Which was Rejected — 
The Vessel not for Sale — The "Senator" Leaves a Memorable Record. .. . 501 

CHAPTER LVII. 
First Brick Building Erected in San Francisco by the Author — Heavy Rains 
Stop the Work for a Season — Teaming Difficult — The Embryo City a Lake of 
Mud — How Pedestrians Managed to get About — Commodore Jones Wants to 
Remove the Brick Building, and Transport the Material of which it was Com- 
posed to Benicia — The Commodore Fails to Make an Impression on the 
Author's Mind that Benicia was to be the Future Metropolitan City of the Bay 
— The Commodore's Offer Declined — Other Tempting Propositions Rejected 
— The Building Subsequently Leased to the Government as a Custom House — 
Seiior Jose Antonio Aguirre, the Author and Others Embark in Another 
Business Enterprise— The Ship Rhone Chartered and Dispatched to China for 
Goods — Why the Speculation Proved a Failure — Flour from Chile — The 
Author, with a Parly, Goes on a Gold- Hunting Expedition to Lower California 
— Precaution in Tent-Pitching against Rattlesnakes — Don Ramon fond of 
Rattlesnakes as Food — An Ancient Olive Orchard — The Party Joined by Don 
Manuel Castro and Five Soldiers, an Indian Guide and Interpreter — The Expe- 
dition Arrives at Trinidad — The Interpreter Dispatched for /apaje, an Old 
Indian Chief, who knew Where the Gold was to be Found^The Chief Comes 
into Camp with a Party of His Own — Generous Offers Made to the Old Chief 
it he will Reveal where the Gold Exists — He declined Them — His Reason 
for so Doing — The Chief obdurate to the End— The Expedition Consequently 
a Failure — A Band of large fine Cattle purciiased by the Author from Seiior 
Emigdio Bejar in Lower California — The Cattle Arrive at San Leandro in 
August 1852 51S 

CHAPTER LVHI. 
Sefiora Dona Juana Estudillo's Portion of the Pinole Rancho— A Tract of 
Seven Thousand Acres — It is named " San Joaquin " by the Author — Four 
Thousand Head of Cattle grazing on the "San Joaquin" in 1853— The 
" Cybell," with a Cargo of three hundred thousand feet of Pine Lumber, forty 
thousand Bricks, and Frames for eight or ten Houses, arrives from Portland, 
Maine, in the Summer of 1850— The Author Purchases the Cargo for $10,000 
— Building Material a Glut in the San Francisco Market— A Picturesque Spot 



xxii CONTENTS. 

Pack. 

for a Town on the Encinal de Temascal, the present site of the City of Oakland 
— The Author's Plans for the Laying Out of the Town — Negotiations with the 
Owner of the Rancho for Purchase of the Premises in the Fall of 1846 — Don 
Vicente Peralta Refuses to Sell the Property — The Owner Disposes of the 
Land in 1850 to Col. Jack Hays, Caperton and others — The Rancho San 
Leandro — A History of Squatter Troubles — Litigation Lasting for Years — 
The Squatters finally Beaten — They Take Leases from the Estudillo Family 
— The County Seat of Alameda County Removed in 1854 from Alvarado to 
San Leandro — Mrs. Estudillo and her Children Deed the County Land for 
Public Buildings — The town of San Leandro Laid Out, and a Fine Hotel 
Built, called the " The Estudillo." 531 

CHAPTER LIX. 
Ports in the Department where Hides were conveyed through the Surf to 
Vessels — An instance of Feminine Self-assertion, manifested by a patriotic 
Mexican Lady — An Interview with a Reporter of the San Diego Sun — The 
Author imparts Information of Occurrences at the Port of San Diego in 1831 
— The First Building and an Extensive Wharf erected at New San Diego by 
the Author in 1850 — Military Necessity — The Wharf converted into Fire-wood 
by the Soldiers of the United States Army in the Rainy Winter of 1861-62 — 
The Congress Appealed to for Compensation — The Senate Passes the Bill — 
Why no Adequate Relief was ever Granted — General Nathan Lyon gives a 
Dance and Entertainment at Military Headquarters in San Diego — An Enjoy- 
able Reunion — Fair Women and Brave Men — Correspondence relating to the 
Administration of First-Alcalde Hyde, of the District of San Francisco- 
Names of Residents at the Presidio of San Francisco, at the Mission and in 
Verba Buena, on the date of Conquest July 8, 1846 547 

CHAPTER LX. 

First Chinaman in California — Second Arrival of Chinese — Observations by 
Mr. McDermett — Observations by Mr. Leeds — Chinese Encroachment — 
Chinese Immorality — Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson's Regiment of one 
thousand New York Volunteer Soldiers, a portion of the United States Army 
of Occupation, Arrives at San Francisco in the month of March, 1847 — 
Roster of the commissioned and non-commissioned Officers of the Regiment. , . 571 

CHAPTER LXI. 
Colonel Stevenson's Arrival at San Francisco — Distribution of Troops — 
Mormon Soldiers — Tranquility of California — Good Work of Commodore 
Stockton — Arrival of Transports — Colonel Stevenson much Esteemed and 
Popular — Death of his Son, Captain Stevenson — Author's Visit to Mount 
Vernon — Patriotic Women of the United States — Isaac Williams — Homes of 
the Hacendados 584 

CHAPTER LXII. 
Missions and their Wealth — Hacendados and their Property — Downfall of 
the Missions — Cattle, Horses and Sheep in the Department of California. . . . 591 

CHAPTER LXIII. 
James Alexander Forbes — Record of Arrivals from 1774 to 1847 — Estimate 
of Exports of Hides and Tallow — Conclusion 603 



Sixty Years in California, 



BY 



WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Author's first arrival in California — Engages in local trade and commerce with 
Sitka and the Hawaiian Islands — Appearance of Sitka — Government 
Officers — Social Amenities — At Monterey — Prominent Foreign Residents — 
Author's Second Visit to the Coast — An English Brig Discovered — A Race 
between the Brig and " Volunteer " — The latter Victorious— In Port a 
"Good Time" ensues between the Officers of the Respective Vessels — 
List of Trading Vessels — Forts, Military Officers and other Residents of the 
Bay Shores — Sea Otter plenty in San Francisco Bay — Tratle Ventures 
in Different Directions. 

My first visit to California was in 183 1, in the 
bark "Louisa" of Boston, captain George Wood, with 
J. C. Jones as supercargo and owner and Charles 
Smith as assistant supercargo. She had come from 
Boston with a carsfo of assorted merchandise to the 
Sandwich Islands, where she disposed of a portion of 
her goods, and sailed thence to Sitka, and from there 
to Monterey, to Santa Barbara, to San Pedro (the port 
of Los Angeles), and to San Diego, trading at each of 
these points. 

At the last named place we received many hides 
from the " Volunteer," an American bark, captain J. O. 
Carter, supercargo Ebbitts; that vessel as well as the 



2 POINTS OP^ INTEREST AT SITKA. 

" Louisa," being owned by J. C. Jones, who was a 
Boston merchant engaged in trading to ports on the 
Pacific coast and the Islands. From San Diego, we 
sailed for Honolulu, with a full cargo of hides and a 
deck load of horses. The horses were disposed of at 
Honolulu, and the hides taken in the vessel to Boston, 
on her return voyage. 

Among the residents of Monterey at that time were 
David Spence, Captain J. B. R. Cooper, Nathan Spear, 
James Watson, George Kinlock, William E. P. Hart- 
nell, and these men were the most prominent of the 
foreigners. 

The first three named were enofaofed in merchan- 
dising. Kinlock was a ship and house carpenter. 
Hartnell was an instructor in the employ of the Mexi- 
can government in the department of California, of 
which Monterey was the capital. 

In trading at Sitka on this trip, we took furs and 
Russian money in payment for the goods disposed of 
there. 

At that time Sitka presented many points of in- 
terest. Besides the government fort, the different 
residences of the Qrovernor and his staff were fine build- 
ings, in the shape of castles or round towers ; each 
mounted with guns, as a protection against the Indians, 
who were very hostile. 

The office of the governor was both civil and 
military, He and his officers were gentlemen, highly 
educated, refined in manners, intelligent and courteous. 
They received us with great hospitality. 



SECOND VISIT TO PACIFIC COAST. 3 

These gentlemen were from the nobility of Russia. 
Their wives and daughters were exceedingly beautiful 
and highly accomplished ; they were of medium height, 
delicate and symmetrical in form and figure, and exceed- 
ingly graceful in their walk and carriage. What struck 
me particularly was the wonderful transparency of their 
complexions and their rosy cheeks. At my age I was 
much impressed with their handsome appearance. 

Most of these gentlemen and ladies spoke French 
and English in addition to their own language. They 
gave family parties and balls for our entertainment, 
which were conducted with great elegance and refine- 
ment. 

In return we eave two or three entertainments on 
board the " Louisa," the vessel on each occasion being 
handsomely decorated with the flags of almost every 
nation, the Russian flag flying at the foremast. On 
the arrival of the governor with his staff, and the ladies 
of their families, he received a salute corresponding to 
his rank. 

In 1833 I visited this coast again in the Boston bark 
" Volunteer," captain Thomas Shaw ; J. C. Jones, owner 
and supercargo ; Sherman Peck, assistant supercargo. 
Jones went from Boston to the Sandwich Islands about 
1820 or 1 82 1, and became U. S. consul, and during 
his consulship made voyages between Boston and the 
Islands and to other points. During his absence his 
duties were performed by a deputy, Stephen Reynolds, 
of Boston. We arrived at Monterey and sailed thence 
to San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, San 



4 A TRIP FROM THE SOUTH. 

Dieo-Q. and returned, touching and trading at these 
places. We then came to the harbor of San Francisco, 
and anchored in a cove known as Yerba Buena or Lo- 
ma Alta Cove, Yerba Buena being San Francisco, and 
Loma Alta is Telegraph Hill. At that time there were 
trading on the coast at different points the ship "Alert," 
of Boston, captain Thompson ; ship " California," of 
Boston, captain James Arthur, supercargo Alfred Rob- 
inson ; the English brig " Arecucha," captain John Wil- 
son, supercargo James Scott, both being owners ; the 
American brig " Bolivar Liberator," captain Nye ; the 
Boston bark " Don Quixote," captain John Meek, super- 
cargo William S. Hinckley ; and the Mexican brig 
" Leonidas," formerly U. S. vessel of war " Dolphin," 
captain Juan Malarin, owner and supercargo Don Jose 
Antonio Aguirre. 

As the " Volunteer" approached the bay of San 
Francisco on the trip from the south just mentioned, 
she was becalmed and compelled to lie to in a fog. 
About II o'clock in the forenoon the fog lifted and dis- 
appeared from the horizon, and as it did so we noticed 
the English brig " Arecucha," also becalmed, lying near 
us, almost within hailing distance, she also having just 
come from the southern ports, bound for Yerba Buena. 

We were then about twenty-five miles west of the 
entrance to the bay. 

The " Arecucha" was claimed by her owners to be 
the fastest vess(;l on the coast, and this was conceded 
by all the captains except captain Shaw of the " Vol- 
unteer," who was very proud of our pretty bark, and 



THE "volunteer" WINS A RACE. 5 

her superior sailing qualities, and had often remarked 
to me that he desired an opportunity for a trial of speed 
between the two vessels. 

The opportunity now presented itself, and he de- 
termined to avail himself of it, to the delicjht of all on 
board. The captain i^ave orders to prepare for the ex- 
citing race, which was obeyed with alacrity by all with 
smilins: faces. The " Arecucha" beino^ a little to the 
west of us, took the trade wind first, it having sprung 
up as the fog cleared, and so had the lead. 

Captain' Shaw, approaching me on the quarter-deck, 
said, •' Billy, she will not maintain that position long." 
The breeze freshened, both vessels put on more sail, 
and we began slowly and surely to gain on the brig. 
Captain Shaw, standing by the man at the wheel, said, 
*' I want to pass her within hailing distance." "Aye, 
aye, sir," was the response. When abreast of the brig, 
captain Shaw called to the steward to bring him the 
speaking trumpet, and on receiving it, he hailed the 
other vessel with "Captain Wilson how do you do?" 
The reply came, " I am well, thank you ; Captain Shaw, 
you are gaining on me fast." When the stern of our 
vessel was about abreast of the forecastle of the brig, 
three cheers from the "Volunteer" rent the air, spon- 
taneously given by the crew, and they were returned 
from the brig. We anchored about fifteen minutes 
before she did, in the present anchorage at the port of 
San Francisco, and our captain and all the crew were 
joyous and happy, as they had beaten the vessel reputed 
to be the fastest on the coast. 



O SOCIAL AMENITIES. 

The race had been very excitino-, both vessels 
flying their national colors, and spreading their sails to 
the fullest extent, the captain of each standing on the 
quarter-deck, watching every movement and trimming 
sails to catch every portion of the breeze. 

In the evening, the captain and supercargo of the 
" Arecucha" came on board the " Volunteer," and spent 
a few hours, and the race formed the subject of conver- 
sation ; Wilson admitting that he w^as fairly beaten for 
the first time. A good many social glasses passed over 
the event, and the best feeling prevailed. This little 
episode was an illustration of the national feeling of 
pride existing between the English and Americans. 

The Presidio was the military post, where all the 
white inhabitants lived, and was commanded by Captain 
M. G. Vallejo, now General Vallejo, There were 
probably at the barracks, including soldiers, between 
two and three hundred men, women and children. 

The soldiers were native Californians, all vaqueros, 
all horsemen. Captain Vallejo was then only recently 
married to his beautiful bride, Doiia Francisca Benicia 
Carrillo. Fort Point was garrisoned, and was then 
known as Punta de Castillo, or Castle Point, and was 
also under the command of Captain Vallejo. 

Among the foreigners who were here at that time 
were Captain William A. Richardson, a native of Eng- 
land, the owner of the Saucelito ranch, who was mar- 
ried to the daughter of the late Captain Ygnacio Mar- 
tinez, who commanded the Presidio and Fort Point 
military posts previous to the command of Vallejo ; 



TRADE ON THE COAST. 7 

John Read, of Ireland, who subsequently was the 
owner of the Read ranch adjoining the Saucelito ranch ; 
Timothy Murphy, of Ireland, and James Black, of 
Scotland. 

Murphy was a sea otter-hunter, making his head- 
quarters at the Presidio and the Mission of San Rafael. 
The sea otters were plentiful in the bay, and at Bodega 
and other points along the coast. The skins were 
quite valuable, worth from $40 to $50, and sometimes 
as high as $60 apiece. They were sold to the Boston 
ships that traded on the coast. Read became a stock- 
raiser on his ranch. Richardson commanded a vessel, 
and traded up and down the coast, and on the coast of 
Peru and Chile. He made his headquarters at Verba 
Buena. He got his goods at Callao and Lima, mostly 
English and German, which had been sent there from 
Europe. For them he exchanged tallow and furs 
which he had collected about the coast. He was sail- 
ing for a Lima house. Black was a cattle-raiser and 
otter-hunter, and became owner of ranches in Marin 
county. He died a few years ago, leaving to his heirs 
a larQ^e fortune in land and cattle. 

The trade on the coast at that time was mostly a 
barter trade. The currency was hides and tallow, with 
considerable sea otter, land otter and beaver skins, the 
latter being obtained on the Sacramento and San Joa- 
quin rivers. 



.^^ 



CHAPTER II. 

The San Francisco Mission— The Padres as Instructors — Their Possessions in 
Live Stock and Natural Productions — Hostile Indians Captured, Civil- 
ized and Christianized — Goods sold to the Padres, for Hides, Tallow 
Peltries and Money — Other Missions — San Francisco in 1S33 — Marriage 
of Thomas O. Larkin on board the " Volunteer," at Santa Barbara — Fest- 
ivities that Followed — The " Volunteer'' trades to Honolulu — The Author 
Sails on Board to that City. 

The Mission of San Francisco de Asis, usually 
called the Mission Dolores, situated one league from 
the site of Verba Buena, on the west side of the bay 
of San Francisco, contained at this time, August, 1833, 
about 2000 Indians, more or less civilized, well clothed. 
Among them were blacksmiths, shipwrights, carpenters, 
tailors, shoe-makers and masons, all of whom had 
learned these trades at the Mission, under the superin- 
tendence of the Padres. They had also learned the 
Spanish language, as a general thing had acquired 
habits of industry, and had become civilized and 
Christianized. Many of them could read and write. 

Padre Ouijas was at the head of the Mission Do- 
lores, and administrator of the establishment. He had 
abaut 10, 030 head of cattle, many thousand head of 
horses an.I m u-es, and a vast number of sheep. 

The dom:iin of the Mission extended to what is 
now known as San Mateo, includinof the rancho of Buri 
Buri, formerly owned by Don Jose Sanchez and his 
family. 



INDIANS AT THE MISSIONS. 



I visited the Mission Dolores frequently during 
our stay at the port here, was always kindly received 
by the Padre, and drank as fine red California wine as 
I ever have since, manufactured at the Mission from 
grapes brought from the Missions of Santa Clara and 
San Jose. 

The Indians were captured by the military who 
went into the interior of the country in pursuit of them, 
detachments of soldiers being frequently sent out from 
the Presidio and other military posts in the department 
on these expeditions, to bring the wild Indians into the 
Missions to be civilized and converted to Christianity, 
Sometimes two or three hundred would be brought in 
at a time — men, women and children — from the foot- 
hill region of the Sierra Nevadas and the San Joaquin 
and Sacramento valleys. They were immediately 
turned over to the Padres at the different Missions, 
generally with a guard of a corporal and ten soldiers to 
assist the priest in keeping them until they had become 
somewhat tamed. They were kindly treated, and soon 
became domesticated and ready and eager to adopt the 
habits of civilized life. They gradually lost their desire 
to return to their former mode of life. 

After they had become adapted to their new con- 
dition their influence on the later arrivals of Indians 
was very marked. These yielded much more readily to 
the civilizing influence exerted upon them than those 
first captured. They were baptized and the children 
christened and taught in schools and in hibiis of in- 
dustry. Many of them were employed to look after 



lO TRADE WITH MISSION FATHERS. 

the Stock belonging to the Missions, and became expert 
horsemen and vaqueros. 

During our stay in the bay (about three or four 
weeks) we sokl some fifteen or twenty thousand dollars' 
worth of goods to Padre Quijas. We received in pay- 
ment hides and tallow, sea and land otter skins, and 
beaver skins, and also some Spanish and Mexican 
doubloons, which had probably been laid away for many 
years. 

The goods were mostly sugar, tea, coffee, clothing, 
and blankets for the Indians. 

There were blankets manufactured at the Mis- 
sions, of a very coarse texture, from the wool of their 
sheep. They were known as Mission blankets, and 
used at the Missions mostly. 

We also sold to the Missions of Santa Clara 
and San Jose a large amount of goods, which was sent 
to them in launches to what is now known as Alviso 
Landing, for which we received in payment hides, 
tallow, furs and some coin — Mexican and Spanish 
doubloons. ' > 

The Missions of Santa Clara and San Jose were 
richer in cattle, horses and sheep than the Mission Do- 
lores, and each of them had a much larger number of 
Indians. The Mission Dolores was considered a poor 
Mission compared to these other two. The Mission 
of San Rafael was also in existence, and that was in- 
ferior to the Mission Dolores. 

In 1833 there was not a single inhabitant of what 
is now known as the City and County of San Francisco 
outside of the Presidio and the Mission. 



A marriagp: on the "volunteer." II 

At the place where Portsmouth Square now is there 
was a growing crop of Irish potatoes — a patch about the 
size of the square — enclosed by a brush fence, the crop 
having been planted by Candelario Miramontes, who 
resided near the Presidio with his family. One of his 
sons loaned me a beautiful horse to ride to the Presidio 
and Mission Dolores whenever it suited my pleasure to 
do so. I had him picketed with a long rope, for 
pasturage, at a place which is now the block between 
Pacific and Jackson and Montgomery and Sansome 
streets. 

When we left the bay of San Francisco we traded 
down the coast at different points. While stopping at 
Santa Barbara, Thomas O. Larkin, who was afterwards 
United States Consul at Monterey, was married on 
board the bark " Volunteer " by Mr. J. C. Jones, acting 
in his capacity as consul. 

The bride was a Massachusetts lady whose name 
has passed from my memory. We had a wedding 
festival, which was attended by the elite of Santa 
Barbara — beautiful ladies, mothers and daughters, with 
their husbands and sons, all of Castilian extraction. 
There was music with dancing, commencing soon after 
the marriage, and kept up till a late hour in the evening. 

Native California wine and imported sparkling 
champagne were freisly used, and all had a very enjoy- 
able time. 

On reaching San Diego our vessel was turned over 
to captain Joseph O. Carter, of the American schooner 



12 VOYAGE TO HONOLULU. 

" Harriet Blanchard," both vessels being owned by J. 
C. Jones. 

Shaw took command of the latter, and Jones and 
myself went in her to Honolulu, with a cargo of hides, 
some furs, and also thirty head of fine California horses 
for a deck load. Sherman remained in the " Volun- 
teer " as supercargo. The horses were sold at 
Honolulu and the hides transferred to another vessel 
about to sail for Boston. 



CHAPTER III. 

The Author Returns May, 1S38, on the "Don Quixote" — A Protracted Battle 
without Human Bloodshed — At Monterey on the "Don Quixote" — Further 
Enumeration of Trading Vessels — The Voyage to Sacramento — The 
Author's Schooner the Flag Ship — Captain Sutter on Board — He unfolds to 
the Author his Future Plans — The Nativity of Captain Sutter — A Plague of 
Mosquitos — Captain Sutter Landed — A Salute which Astonishes the Indians 
and Wild Beasts— The Salute Answered with Cheers — Return Voyage — 
Provisions Scarce — Unexpected Food Supply Received. 

The "Don Quixote" arrived in Santa Barbara 
from Boston via Honolulu, in May, 1838, and I was a 
passenger on her, this being my third trip to California. 
We found Governor Alvarado there, and the depart- 
ment in a revolutionary state. He was opposed by 
Don Carlos Carillo and his brother Don Jose An- 
tonio Carillo, who were at Los Anofeles. 

At the above date Governor Alvarado was at his 
headquarters at Santa Barbara provisionally, and the 
brothers Carillo were at Los Anofeles. Thev met on 
the plains of Los Angeles, where a battle ensued, and 
four or five horses on each side were shot ; but none of 
the soldiers lost their lives — not even one was wounded 
— though the conflict lasted for a day or two, as they 
took the precaution to keep at a safe distance from 
each other, 

Alvarado's force was commanded by General Jose 
Castro, and the revolutionary party by Jose Antonio 
Carillo. 



14 A REVOLUTIONARY EPISODE. 

Alvarado sustained his authority as governor of 
the department of CaHfornia, and the revokitionists 
were considered as subdued after this bloodless conflict. 
Some of the leaders were taken prisoners, but shortly 
after released, and the remainder dispersed. 

Previous to this affair our vessel was ordered by Al- 
varado to go from Santa Barbara to Monterey to enter, 
that being the only port of entry in the department. 

At Monterey I stopped with Major William War- 
ren, then keeping a store there for Nathan Spear, who 
had also a commercial establishment at Yerba Buena 
in company with Jacob P. Leese and William S. Hinck- 
ley. 

During my stay there of two or three weeks, the 
severe earthquake of June, 1838, took place. At Mon- 
terey at that time were David Spence, Thomas O. Lar- 
kin, U. S. consul, John B. R. Cooper, Major William 
Warren, James Watson, a grocer, George Kinlock, 
James Stokes, merchant, Edward T. Bale, physician, 
a native of England, William P. Hartnell, the Mexi- 
can government instructor and interpreter. These 
were the prominent foreigners there. Among the 
Mexicans and Californlans were Jose Abrigo, Man- 
ual Dias, Don Antonio Maria Osio, Collector of the 
Port ; Juan Malavin, Estevan Munrass, Don Pablo 
de la Guerra, Raphael Gonzales, Raphael Pinto, (the 
last three connected with the Custom House), also, 
Jacinto Rodriguez, Jose Ameste, Don Manuel Castro, 
Francisco Pacheco, who were engaged in stock-raising ; 



MERCHANTS AT VERBA BUENA. 1 5 

Mariano Soveranes, Jose Antonio Vallejo, also engaged 
in stock-raising, and a brother of General Vallejo. 

At that time the following vessels were trading on 
the coast : The English brig " Arecucha," the Peruvian 
brigantine " Delmira," captain John Vioget, supercargo 
and owner Don Miguel Pedrorena ; the ship " Alert," 
ship " California," the Mexican brig " Catalina," cap- 
tain Jo. Snooks, supercargo Don Eulojio de Celis ; 
the Mexican bark "Clarita," captain Walter; same 
supercargo as the "Catalina;" the Mexican Govern- 
ment schooner " California," captain Cooper ; and the 
Boston bark " Don Quixote," captain John Paty, 

I sailed from Monterey to Yerba Buena in the ship 
*' Alert," well known as the vessel on which Dana served 
for two years, which experience gave rise to his book, 
" Two Years Before the Mast." She was commanded 
by captain D. P. Penhallow, supercargo Thomas B. 
Park. The ship was owned in Boston by Bryant & 
Sturgis, and was on this coast trading for hides, tallow 
and furs. 

On arriving at Yerba Buena I went into the employ 
of Nathan Spear, and soon became his managing ac- 
tive business man. 

He was a native of Boston, Mass., brother of Paul 
Spear, a prominent apothecary in Boston, and visited 
Monterey, California, as early as 1823, in the American 
schooner " Rover," together with Captain J. B. R. 
Cooper. 

Mr. Nathan Spear was one of the first merchants 
at Monterey and Yerba Buena, and kept a stock of 



1 6 A REMARKABLE EARTHQUAKE. 

general merchandise, which was sold to the native Cal- 
ifornia farmers and stock-raisers around the bay. The 
goods were carried to different points by two little 
schooners owned by Spear, named the " Isabel" and 
" Nicholas." 

Mr. Spear informed me that during the earthquake 
of June, '3S, before mentioned, a large sand-hill stand- 
ing in the vicinity of what is now Fremont street, be- 
tween Howard and Folsom, and between which and 
the bay at high tide there was a space of about twenty 
feet, permitting a free passage along the shore to Rin- 
con Point (the coves of which were then much resorted 
to for picnics and mussel parties), was moved bodily 
close to the water, so as to obstruct the passage along 
the shore. After that no one could pass there at high 
tide, and we were compelled to go around back of the 
sand-hill, and wade through the loose sand to reach that 
point, a much more laborious walk. 

Early in the spring of '39, the American ship "Mon- 
soon, "of Boston, captain George Vincent, Thomas 
Shaw supercargo, arrived at Yerba Buena from Mon- 
terey with an assorted cargo. My brother, Robert G. 
Davis, from Boston, was a clerk on board. 

In the month of June the brigantine "Clementine," 
captain Blinn, arrived from Honolulu, by way of Sitka. 
Captain John A. Sutter, with four or five Germans or 
Swiss, who were mechanics, and three Hawaiians and 
their wives were passengers. He had gone from one 
of the Eastern States to Honolulu, thence to Sitka, 
thence to California. Sutter stayed with Nathan Spear, 



sutter's expedition north. 17 

with all his men and his outfit, and intended to go to the 
Sacramento valley. When he was ready to proceed, 
our expedition, composed of the two schooners, " Isa- 
bel" and " Nicholas," and a four-oared boat which Sut- 
ter brought with him, started with Sutter and his fol- 
lowers. Sutter had two pieces of artillery which he 
brought with him, and other arms and ammunition for 
defense against the I ndians, if necessary. The fleet was 
placed under my command. 

We left Yerba Buena on the 9th of August, 1839, 
from alongside the ship " Monsoon " (the only vessel in 
the bay) for the Sacramento valley, concerning which 
there was but little known at that time. It had no in- 
habitants but Indians, many of whom were Mission In- 
dians who had left as the Missions became impover- 
ished and located there. They returned to their former 
uncivilized life, making occasional visits to the different 
ranchos to steal horses. 

The fleet was about eight days going up the river; 
every night we would stop at the bank, and Captain 
Sutter would make excursions from the river to examine 
the country, looking for a suitable place to establish 
himself. His idea was to settle, and obtain grants from 
the Mexican government. I think he had an under- 
standing with that government before he went there, 
probably with the Mexican minister in the United 
States. When stopping along the bank of the river at 
night we could not obtain any rest on account of the 
immense multitude of mosquitoes which prevailed, ex- 
ceeding anything we ever experienced before. 



1 8 PLANS FOR DEFENSE AGAINST INDIANS. 

The last afternoon we anchored in front of what is 
now Sacramento City, and saw on the banks of the river 
some seven or eight hundred Indians, men, women and 
children. We prepared ourselves for an attack, but our 
fears proved groundless. They came off to our anchor- 
age in large numbers in canoes made of tules. That 
afternoon we weighed anchor and went into the Ameri- 
can river, landed, pitched tents, and made preparations 
to occupy the country. 

Captain Sutter immediately mounted his brass can- 
nons ; all his small arms were made ready for defense 
against the Indians in case of necessity, and camp es- 
tablished. 

On the way up the Sacramento river, Captain Sut- 
ter being on board my schooner, which was considered 
the flag-ship of the fleet, communicated tome his plans. 
He said, as soon as he found a suitable site he would 
immediately build a fort, as a means of defense against 
the Indians, and also against the government of the 
department of California, in case any hostility should be 
manifested in that quarter. He also mentioned his in- 
tention to form a laro-e colonv of his own countrvmen 
to come to this coast, with a view of developing the im- 
mense Sacramento valley. 

Captain Sutter was a native of Switzerland, an edu- 
cated and accomplished gentlemen, and a very agreeable 
and entertaining companion. 

Having accomplished my purpose of landing Cap- 
tain Sutter at the junction of the American and Sacra- 



A SALUTE IN THE WILDERNESS. 1 9 

mento rivers with his men and his freight, the following 
morning we left him there, and headed the two vessels 
for Verba Buena. As we moved away Captain Sutter 
gave us a parting salute of nine guns — the first ever 
fired at that place — which produced a most remarkable 
effect. As the heavy report of the guns and the echoes 
died away, the camp of the little party was surrounded 
by hundreds of Indians, who w^ere excited and aston- 
ished at the unusual sound. A large number of deer, 
elk and other animals on the plains were startled, run- 
ning to and fro, stopping to listen, their heads raised, 
full of curiosity and wonder, seemingly attracted and 
fascinated to the spot, while from the interior of the 
adjacent wood the howls of wolves and coyotes filled 
the air, and immense flocks of water fowl flew wildly 
about over the camp. 

Standing on the deck of the " Isabel" I witnessed 
this remarkable sight, which filled me with astonishment 
and admiration, and made an indelible impression on my 
mind. This salute was the first echo of civilization in 
the primitive wilderness so soon to become populated, 
and developed into a great agricultural and commercial 
centre. We returned the salute with nine cheers from 
the schooners, the vessels flying the American colors. 
The cheers were heartily responded to by the little gar- 
rison, and thus we parted company. 

The voyage down the river occupied eight days. 
As we approached its termination we were nearly 
starved. We were reduced to living on brown sugar, 
that being all that remained of our provisions. 



20 SUPPLIED WITH GOOD BEEF, 

The day before we reached Yerba Buena we an- 
chored where the town of Martinez now is, the place 
being" then known as Canada del Hambre (Valley of 
Huno^er), from the fact that on one occasion a company of 
soldiers who were out campaigning against the Indians 
found themselves very hungry. While at this place we 
were without the means of obtaining food. Our own 
situation coincided with that of the soldiers, and we 
landed with a view to kill some game or capture a steer. 
We adopted the latter course. Jack Rainsford, who 
commanded the " Isabel," killed a fine steer belonging" 
to Don Ygnacio Martinez, our necessity compelling" this 
step, and we were thus supplied with plenty of good 
beef. 

On meeting Don Ygnacio Martinez subsequently 
and informino- him of the circumstance, he said it was 
entirely satisfactory, and regretted that he \vas not there 
at the time to supply us with bread, butter and cheese 
to eat with the beef. This was certainly a fine instance 
of gentlemanly courtesy and generosity. 



CHAPTER IV. 

More Names of Residents around the Bay of San Francisco. 

In 1838 the following were the prominent families 
around the bay of San Francisco : At the Mission Do- 
lores were Francisco de Haro, then alcalde, who was 
married to the daughter of Don Jose Sanchez ; Fran- 
cisco Guerrero, who was afterward alcalde and sub- 
prefect ; Tiburcio Vasquez, Dona Carmen Cibrian, 
Candelario Valencia, married to the daughter of Don 
Jose Sanchez ; Jesus Valencia, married to another 
daughter of Sanchez ; Don Jesus Noe. The residence 
of Don Jose Sanchez was at Buri Buri, which place he 
owned. It contained 8000 head of cattle and a great 
many horses and mares. His sons, who lived there 
also, were Jose La Cruz, Francisco, Manuel, Chino and 
Ysidro. Captain Juan Prado Mesa, who resided with 
his family at the Presidio, was in command of the mili- 
tary post there. 

At the Rancho Pinole, near Martinez, resided 
Teniente Ygnacio Martinez, with his family. At the 
Rancho San Pablo, Don Joaquin Castro, with his 
mother. Dona Gabriella Berreyesa de Castro, and his 
brothers, Antonio, Gabriel, Victor and Jesus Maria. 
At Temescal were Don Domingo Peralta and Vicente 
Peralta. At San Antonio, Ygnacio Peralta and his 
family, and Antonio Maria Peralta and his family. At 
the Rancho San Leandro resided Don Jose Joaquin 



2 2 THE OWNERS OF RANCHOS. 

Estudillo and family. At the Rancho San Lorenzo, 
Guillermo Castro and family. At the Mission of San 
Jose, Jose Jesus Vallejo, brother of General Vallejo, 
who was then administrator of that Mission, which re- 
tained some of its former wealth. At Milpitas resided 
Don Jose Crisostimo Galindo and family; James Alex- 
ander Forbes, who was married to a daughter of the 
latter, and was then acting as British vice-consul, a na- 
tive of Scotland. He was a thorough Spanish scholar. 
There were also Jose Maria Alviso (chico) and family. 
At Agua Calienta was Don Flujencio Higuera and 
family. At the Pueblo San Jose, Don Antonio Sunol, 
a native of Spain, a merchant ; the Bernal families ; 
Don Antonio Maria Pico and family ; Don Luis Peralta, 
the father of those before mentioned, with his daugh- 
ters, he being then nearly a hundred years old. He 
was a native of Sonora, and had emigrated to this part 
of the country when a boy. At Santa Clara were Dona 
Soledad Otega Arguello, widow of Don Luis Arguello, 
one of the early governors of the department of Cal- 
ifornia, who owned the Rancho Las Pulgas (which 
means the F"leas) in San Mateo county, now possessed 
by his heirs ; also Don Ygnacio Alviso, with his amiable 
wife, to whom I am indebted fo.r numerous kindnesses. 

At these different places there were many others, 
mostly foreigners, engaged in commercial pursuits. 

At Sonoma were General M. G. Vallejo and family, 
he being commander-in-chief of the forces of the depart- 
ment. His military headquarters were at that place. 



WEALTH IX CATTLE AND HORSES. 23 

He owned the Rancho Petaluma, with thousands of cat- 
tle and horses. The Rancho Suscol was a national 
ranch under his control, heavily stocked with cattle 
and horses. At Sonoma, also, was Salvador Vallejo, 
brother of the ofeneral, who owned a laree ranch in 
Napa Valley, with thousands of cattle and horses. 
Nicholas Higuera lived at Napa, and was engaged rais- 
ing stock ; so were Cayetano Juarez and Don Joaquin 
Pina and family. At Santa Rosa resided Doiia Maria 
Ygnacia Lopez de Carrillo, with her beautiful daugh- 
ters, J nana and Felicidad. Mrs. Carrillo was the grand- 
mother of ex-Governor Romualdo Pacheco and mother- 
in-law of General V^allejo. At San Rafael were Timothy 
Murphy, Ygnacio Pacheco and family, and Domingo 
Sais. At Read's Ranch was John Read, who married 
the daughter of Don Jose Sanchez, with his family. 
At Saucelito were Captain William A. Richardson and 
family. 



CHAPTER V. 

Station of the Russian Fur Company, and its Officers — The Force engaged Hunt- 
ing Sea Otters — Value of the Otter Skins and where they were Sold — 
Captain Sutter Purchases the Russian Buildings and Outfits — A Fourth 
of July Celebration in 1S39 — Parties in Attendance — Vessel Arrivals in 
1S39. 

On my arrival in 1838 the Russian Fur Company 
had a post at Bodega and also one at Fort Ross, with 
headquarters at the latter place. 

Pedro Kostromitnoff was the governor of the es- 
tablishment, under lease from the Mexican govern- 
ment, which covered the privilege of hunting the sea 
otter and collecting forces at that point for that pur- 
pose, ^which lease expired a few years afterward. 

Before the expiration of the lease Kostromitnoff 
was succeeded by Don Alexander Rotcheff, who sold 
the entire establishment, the Improvements and every- 
thing, in 1 84 1, to Captain John A. Sutter, of New 
Helvetia, which was the name of his fort on the Sac- 
ramento. The force engaged in hunting the sea otter 
numbered several hundred of Russians and Esquimaux, 
brought from Alaska with all their outfits — boats, skin 
canoes (made from the intestines of the whale) and 
their native instruments. 

They were expert shooters with their Russian 
rifles, made for the purpose of killing otters, showing 
great skill in the business, which they carried on here 
the same as in Sitka. 

Going out in their boats, the moment an otter ap- 
peared above the water a gun was raised and fired, in- 



SUTTER BUYS OUT THE RUSSIANS. 25 

stanlly killing the animal, so expert were these hunters. 
Bodega was the port of outfit and delivery from the 
hunt. 

These otters were captured in large quantities in 
the bay of San Francisco, and along the coast south 
and north of the bay ; but the hunting was continued 
so persistently that they became scarce after a while 
and finally were killed out entirely. The skins varied 
from three and one-half to five and one-half feet in 
length, with a width of about three feet, and were 
dried at Bodega, and sent to Sitka in vessels that came, 
two or three yearly, for this freight, for wheat raised 
about the bay of San Francisco and soap made by 
the California farmers. The wheat and soap were for 
the supply of Sitka and other northern Russian posts 
in Alaska Territory. From Sitka these skins were 
sent to St. Petersburg. 

Some of the men had their families with them. 
Don Pedro Kostromitnoff was unmarried ; Don Alex- 
ander Rotcheff was a married man ; and his wife was a 
beautiful Russian lady, of accomplishments. They lived 
at Fort Ross. 

Sutter bought whatever the Russian Company had, 
the buildings and all the fixtures of the places, both at 
Bodega and Fort Ross, for $50,000, payable in wheat, 
soap and furs, in yearly installments for five years, the 
purchase including several thousand cattle, horses and 
sheep. It was all paid for in the course of time as 
agreed by the articles named. The wheat was raised 



26 CELEBRATING INDEPENDENCE DAY. 

in the Sacramento valley in and around his establish- 
ment. 

At the first celebration of the fourth of July, in 
1839, at Yerba Buena, the families of the prominent 
residents before mentioned were invited to the festivity, 
which was managed by the Americans attached to the 
three or four American vessels in port, and those living 
on shore. 

The celebration was at the residence of Jacob P. 
Leese, situated at a point which is now Dupont street, 
between Washington and Clay streets. 

The invitations extended to the persons living about 
the bay were quite generally accepted. Among the 
most notable of them were : Don Joaquin Estudillo, with 
his beautiful wife and lovely daughter Doiia Concepcion ; 
Don Ygnacio Martinez, with his handsome daughters, 
Doiia Susanna, Doiia Francisca, Dona Rafaela and 
Doiia Dolores ; Captain William A. Richardson with 
his wife and pretty daughter, Sefiorita Mariana, who 
was one c-f the belles of the country ; Don Victor Castro 
and his amiable wife, Dona Louisa, daughter of Don 
Ygnacio Martinez ; also the sub-prefect, Don Francisco 
Guerrero, and his pretty wife, Doiia Josefa ; and Alcalde 
Don Francisco de I laro, with his charming daughters, 
Rosalia and Natividad. 

Salutes were fired from the vessels at meridian of 
the Fourth, a grand dinner took place during the 
eveninij, and there was music as well as dancino- after 
the banquet, kept up till the dawn of the next day. 



PICNICS AT VERBA BUENA. 2/ 

On the fifth, picnics took place, as a continuation 
of the festival, generally at Point Rincon; the dance was 
resumed in the evening, and continued until the morn- 
ing of the sixth, when the ladies had become so ex- 
hausted that the festivities ceased. This celebration 
was kept up year after year on the Fourth, for a long 
time, until the change of the government from Mexico 
to the United States, being attended by the native ladies 
of California, many of whom were noted for their beauty, 
and such American gentlemen as were here at the time. 

Richardson was the captain of the port or bay of 
San Francisco for many years, an office of the depart- 
ment, under appointment from the Mexican governor 
of California ; this position being equivalent to that of 
harbor-master under our present law\ Upon vessels 
coming into the bay it was his duty to order them to 
Monterey, then the port of entry, for the purpose of 
entry at the custom house. 

The vessels which arrived in 1839 at Monterey, 
entered there, and traded at coast ports, as near as I 
can remember, w^ere the ship '' California," captain 
Arthur, from Boston, William D. M. Howard, cabin boy; 
the vessel was consigned to Alfred Robinson and Henry 
Melius, agents for Bryant & Sturgis, ot Boston ; the 
Baltimore brig "Corsair," captain \Vm. S. Hinckley, 
who was also owner and supercargo, from Callao ; the 
ship " Fama," captain Hoyer, A. B. Thompson owner 
and supercargo ; the American schooner ' Nymph," 
captain Henry Paty, who was also supercargo, from 
Honolulu. 



CHAPTER VI. 

Thousands of Elk on ]Mare Island —Elk captured with the Lariat by the Rancheros 
— Dangers of the Sport — Ranchos with Large Herds of Live Stock — 
Ranches around the Bay in 1838 — Wealth of Bay Residents in Land and 
Live Stock — Indians as Farmers and Vaqueros — Indian Steam Baths. 

On Mare Island I often saw in the years from '40 
to '43, as many as two or three thousand elk, it being 
their habit to cross and re-cross by swimming between 
the island and the main land, and I remember on one 
occasion when on the schooner /' Isabel," of sailing 
through a band of these elk, probably not less than a 
thousand, which were then crossing from Mare Island 
to the main land. It was a grand and exciting scene. 
The captain of the boat wanted to shoot at some 
of them, but I prev^ented him from doing so, because 
we could not stop to get the game on board and I did 
not like to see the elk wantonly destroyed. 

These elk were killed for their hides and tallow 
by the rancheros in considerable numbers, at the time 
they slaughtered their cattle. They would go out to 
the haunts of the elk, and capture them by the lasso, 
which was used by them on all occasions, and after kill- 
ing the animils, secure the hides and tallow on the spot, 
leaving the carcasses. The tallow of the elk was 
superior to that of the bullock, whiter and firmer, and 
made better candles. 

This work was much more dangerous and exciting 
than the killing of cattle, and required the very best 



CATTLE FARMS ENUMERATED. 29 

broken saddle horses and those most accustomed to the 
lasso, and also the best vaqueros, on account of the 
strength, agility, fleetness and fierceness of the elk. 
Great skill was also required in throwing the lasso, (the 
loop of which was made larger than for cattle on account 
of the wide-spreading horns of the elk), and in hold- 
ino- them after the lasso was cast. 

o 

In 1 838 and 1839 the prominent ranches or cattle 
farms about the bay of San Francisco and in the vicinity 
were as follows : On the north side of the bay at the 
Mission of San Rafael were three or four thousand cattle 
and horses. At Bodega and Fort Ross, the Russian 
American Fur Company, which has already been de- 
scribed, had two or three thousand head of cattle, 
twelve or fifteen hundred horses and numerous sheep. 
At Petaluma, was the rancho of Don Mariano Guada- 
lupe Vallejo, with about ten thousand head of cattle, 
four to six thousand horses and a large number of sheep. 

Where the town of Santa Rosa now stands was 
the Rancho Santa Rosa, owned by Dona Maria Ygnacia 
Lopez de Carrillo, with about three thousand head of 
cattle and twelve to fifteen hundred horses and some 
sheep. Adjoining the Santa Rosa on the north was 
the rancho of Marcus West, an Englishman, with 
about 1 500 cattle and 500 or 600 horses. 

The rancho of Don Salvador \'allejo was located in 
Napa Valley, and contained from 5000 or 6000 cattle 
and about 2000 horses; adjoining him on the east was 
Nicholas Higuera, with about 2000 cattle and 1000 



30 CARQUIXEZ STRAITS AND RAX'CHO PINOLE. 

horses ; to the south of the latter Cayetano J uarez, with 
a few hundred cattle and horses ; adjoining- him to the 
south was the National Rancho Suscol in charge of 
General Vallejo, This was reserved by the Mexican 
government for the purpose of supplying the troops of 
the department of California with cattle and horses. 
It contained 5000 head of cattle, and two or three 
thousand horses, in charge of a corporal and eight or 
ten soldiers, the latter being utilized as vaqueros for 
the purpose of managing this stock. It may be men- 
tioned here as a matter of interest that all the native 
Californians (the term meaning those of Spanish ex- 
traction) were trained to horsemanship, and naturally 
became vaqueros, being very expert with the riata 
and skilled in the traininof and manacrement of horses 
and cattle. 

On the south side of Carquinez strait was the Rancho 
Pinole, owned by Don Ygnacio Martinez, with 8000 
head of cattle and about 1000 horses. This rancho 
derived its name from the parched corn, ground up, 
known as pinole, and which was used everywhere and 
especially by the Mexican troops as food in their cam- 
paigns against the Indians; it was commonly mixed 
with a little pa HOC /la (sugar) and water, and was very 
palatable and nutritious. This food, together with the 
game killed by the soldiers, such as elk, deer, antelope — 
and beef, constituted their whole fare when in the field. 

Adjoining this rancho, on the southeast side, was 
the Rancho Boca de la Canada del Pinole, owned by 



SITE OF OAKLAND AND ALAMEDA. 3 1 

Felipe Briones, with a i'cw hundred cattle and horses ; 
to the west of the Rancho Pinole was the San Pablo, 
owned by the Castro family, with four or five thousand 
head of cattle and one or two thousand horses. 

To the south of San Pablo was the Rancho San 
Antonio, owned by Don Luis Peralta, who prior to his 
death divided the tract among his four sons, Ygnacio, 
Domingo, Antonio Maria and Vicente. A portion of it 
is now occupied by the cities of Oakland and Alameda. 
This rancho carried 8000 head of cattle and 2000 head 
of horses and mares ; it extended on the south to San 
Leandro creek. To the east of this was the Rancho 
Moraga, owned by Don Joaquin Moraga, with about 
800 cattle and a few hundred horses. 

South of San Antonio was the Rancho San Le- 
andro, owned by Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo, with two 
or three thousand head of catde, about 800 horses, and 
five or six thousand sheep ; the present town of San 
Leandro is on a part of the rancho. Across San Lo- 
renzo creek was the Rancho San Lorenzo Bajo, owned 
by Francisco Soto, with one to two thousand cattle, and 
three to four hundred horses ; to the east of him was 
the San Lorenzo upper ranch, owned by Don Guill- 
ermo Castro, with five or six thousand cattle and two 
or three thousand horses. 

To the east of this was the rancho owned by Don 
Jose Maria Amador and Don Dolores Pacheco resid- 
ing at the Pueblo of San Jose, with 6000 head of cattle 
and one to two thousand horses. To the east of them 



vD- 



STOCKRAISERS OX THE GUADALUPE. 



was the rancho ot Robert Livermore, an Englishman, 
with two or three thousand cattle and one or two thous- 
and horses. 

To the south of Francisco Soto was the Mission of 
San Jose, with 8000 head of cattle, and about 3000 
horses, and eight to ten thousand sheep, and fifteen to 
eighteen hundred Christianized Indians, all under the 
charge of Don Jose Jesus Vallejo, the administrator of 
the Mission. 

In the valley of San Jose, extending from what is 
called Warm Springs, as far as thirty miles to the south 
of the town of San Jose, and to the river Guadalupe 
on the west, there were numerous stock-raisers, having 
extensive ranchos, with an aggregate of not less than 
100,000 head of cattle, and probably 20,000 horses, and 
large flocks of sheep. At the rancho of Ygnacio Al- 
viso, where the town of Alviso is located, there were 
three or four thousand head of cattle and about 1500 
horses. 

x-\t the Mission of Santa Clara, to the west of the 
river Guadalupe, there were probably 1000 to 1500 cat- 
tle and horses. This Mission, anterior to 1834," was con- 
sidered one of the richest in the department, but dur- 
ing the revolutions and civil wars in the country the 
military power in the vicinity of the Mission appropri- 
ated nearly all the horses and cattle belonging to it, and 
it therefore became impoverished. 

To the northwest of Santa Clara was the Rancho 
Las Pulgas, (the Fleas), owned by the heirs of Gov- 



THE SOTOYOME GRANT AT HEALDSBURG. 2)3 

ernor Arguello, with about 4000 head of cattle and 2000 
horses. The towns of Belmont, Redwood City and 
Menlo Park are situated here. 

To the northwest of the Las Pulgas was the Buri 
Buri rancho, with about 8000 head of cattle and 1000 
horses, owned by Don Jose Sanchez. 

Captain Henry D. Fitch, a native of New Hamp- 
shire, who came to the country in 1833 or '34, com- 
manded vessels trading to Callao and other points on 
the coast, and afterwards settled at San Diego, where 
he married a sister of General Vallejo's wife, and en- 
gaged in merchandising. He was an honorable man, 
and very hospitable. Afterward, he obtained a grant of 
land, called Sotoyome (an Indian name) in Sonoma 
county, from Governor Micheltorena. He stocked it 
with several thousand cattle and horses. Fitch Moun- 
tain, at Healdsburg, was named after him. He died 
in 1848. 

At San Diego, also, was Don Juan Bandini, a na- 
tive of Peru, who married one of the Estudillo family. 
He was a man of decided ability and of fine character. 
He owned several ranches in San Diego and Los An- 
geles counties. 

Don Abel Stearns married a daughter of Bandini, 
Dona Arcadia, who, after Stearns' death, married Col- 
onel Baker, after whom Bakersfield was named. She 
was very beautiful. Her husband is one of the wealth- 
iest residents of the State. 

At San Diego was also Don Santiago Arguello, a 
brother of Governor Arguello. He was a prominent 

J 



34 FARMS AROUND THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO. 

man, and prefect under Governor Alvarado, in Los An- 
geles, and he held other offices. 

To the north of the bay of San Francisco, wild In- 
dians, from the Clear Lake country, assisted in farm 
work, such as making soap, luatanza work, plowing 
lands for wheat, barley, beans, corn and small veget- 
ables, onions, peas, cabbages, calabazas, lantejas and 
melons. 

Civilized Indians from the Missions were scattered 
about the country, and many were to be found on the 
different ranchos. They were of peaceable disposition, 
were employed as vaqueros, and helped the rancheros 
at the planting season and at harvest time. 

I have often seen the Clear Lake Indians at their 
temascales, or steaming places. A large cavity was made 
in the ground, six or eight feet deep, somewhat like 
a cellar, and tightly covered over with brush, with a 
little aperture for the smoke to pass out. In this cav- 
ity they made a very hot fire, and a number of them, 
men and women, nearly bare of clothing, went in and 
subjected themselves to the heating process, taking a 
hot air bath, keeping up a monotonous singing all the 
time. 

They remained there from half an hour to an hour, 
or until entirely heated through, so that the perspira- 
tion ran off them in streams. In that condition they 
rushed out, plunged into a pool in the creek near by, 
cooled off and washed, after which they retired to their 
habitations. I frequently witnessed this steaming of 
the Indians at the rancho of Mrs. Carillo, at Santa 



INDIANS STEAMING THEMSELVES, 35 

Rosa, and wondered that they were not instantly killed 
by the sudden transition from heat to cold ; but never 
knew any of them to be injured by the practice. These 
performances always took place in the night. 



CHAPTER VII. 

How the Missions were supported — Cattle Slaughtered mainly for their Hides and 
Tallow — The Portions Preserved for Food — Milch Cows in no Demand — 
The use of Horses — The Gangs into which they were Divided, and their 
Habits while running at large — Wild Plorses in San Joaquin Valley — Sport 
had by the Young Men in their Capture with the Lasso. 

The Missions exacted from the cattle owners a 
contribution known as diezino, for the support and ben- 
efit of the clergy and for the expense of the Missions 
— one-tenth of the increase of the cattle. The tax was 
not imposed by the general government, but was solely 
an ecclesiastical matter decreed by the Pope of Rome 
or a law of the church, diligently collected by the clergy 
of the different Missions, and religiously contributed by 
the rancheros. The collection was continued as late as 
1851 or 1852. 

The cattle were slaughtered in the summer season ; 
the killing commenced about the first of July and con- 
tinued until the first of October, for the hides and tal- 
low ; about 200 pounds of the best part of the bullock 
was preserved, by drying, for future consumption, the 
balance of the animal being left to go to waste ; it was 
consumed by the buzzards and wild beasts. 

The tallow was tried in large pots brought by the 
American whale ships — such as are used to try out 
their blubber, and was then run into bags made of hides, 
each containing twenty to forty arrobas. An arroba 
is twenty-five pounds. 



NO MILK OBTAINABLE ON THE RANCHOS. 37 

In securing the tallow, the manteca, or fat lying 
nearest the hide of the bullock, was taken off carefully, 
and tried out apart from the interior fat, or sebo. The 
latter constituted the tallow for shipment ; about sev- 
enty-five to one hundred pounds being obtained from 
each creature. The former, of which forty to fifty 
pounds were obtained, was more carefully and nicely 
prepared, and was saved for domestic use ; in cooking 
being preferred to hog's lard. Sometimes the two were 
mixed, the latter not being used by itself. Whenever 
there was more of the manteca than was needed for the 
family, the Russians were eager purchasers for ship- 
ment and for their own use. It was sold for $2 perar- 
roba, and the sebo at $1.50 per arroba. 

The manteca required much attention in trying it 
out. Being of a more delicate nature than the other 
fat and more liable to burn, it was constantly watched. 
When the fat of either kind was sufficiently melted and 
cooked it was allowed to partly cool, and while still 
liquid was transferred to hide bags, which were pre- 
pared to receive it by fastening at four points on the 
edge of four upright stakes set in the ground, the 
mouth of the bag being thus held open. The hides 
were staked out and dried, and were then ready for 
the market. 

At the ranchos very little use was made of milch 
cows for milk, butter or cheese. I have frequently 
drank my tea or coffee, without milk, on a ranch con- 
taining from 3600 to 8000 head of cattle. But in the 
spring of the year, when the grass was green, the wives 



38 HORSES BROKEN FOR THE SADDLE ONLY. 

of the rancheros made from the milk asaderas, a fresh 
cheese, in small flat cakes, which had to be eaten the 
day it was made. 

The horns of the animals were considered of no 
value by the cattle owners, and were generally secured 
for nothing by the trading vessels on the coast, and 
shipped to Boston. 

The horses were never stabled. They were broken 
for the saddle only, and were almost wholly for herding 
cattle. They were divided up into caponeras, or small 
bodies of about twenty-five each, each caponera having 
a bell mare, which was always a yegtia pinta (calico 
mare), having a beautiful variety of color, whom they 
followed; and so accustomed were they to their leaders 
that the different little bands never mixed; and if by 
chance one got into the wrong company, he would 
presently go back to where he belonged. 

On a rancho with 8000 head of cattle there would be, 
say, twelve caponeras. One or two of these divisions, 
containing the best horses, were specially for the owner 
of the rancho, and never used for ordinary work, but 
merely by the owner for his own riding purposes. 

A large number of horses were needed on each 
rancho for herding stock, as they were used up very 
fast. They were numerous and cheap, and the owners 
placed no restraint upon the vaqueros, who rode with- 
out a particle of regard for the horses, till they soon 
became unfit for further use in this way. The va- 



CAPTURING WILD HORSES. 39 

queros were continually breaking in young colts three 
years old and upwards, to replace those already 
beyond service. 

There were large bands of wild horses in the Val- 
ley of the San Joaquin, which at that time was entirely 
unsettled. At times, a few mares, and perhaps a young 
stallion, would stray away from a rancho and get out of 
reach, until in the course of time there were collected 
in that valley immense herds, thousands and tens of 
thousands of horses, entirely wild and untamed, living 
and breeding by themselves, finding there plenty of 
o-ood feed to sustain them. 

Frequendy during the summer time, young men, 
the sons of rancheros, would go in companies of eight 
or ten or twelve to the valley on their best and fleetest 
steeds, to capture a number of these wild horses and 
bring them to the ranchos. On reaching the place 
where a large band was collected, they prepared for the 
sport in this way : The saddles being removed, the 
horses were ridden bare-back, a piece of reata being 
tied loosely around the body of each horse just behind 
the fore legs, and the rider, having no saddle or stirrups, 
slipped his knees under the rope, one end of the lasso 
being tied to the rope also. Thus prepared, they rode 
toward the wild horses, who, on seeing them approach, 
would take alarm and rush off at great speed, the riders 
following. Sometimes the chase lasted for miles before 
they came up with the horses. On getting near enough 
each horseman selected his victim, pursued him, and 



40 CAPTURING WILD HORSES. 

at the right moment cast the lasso, which never failed 
to encircle the neck of the horse ; then bringing his 
own horse to a stand, there was a wild struggle, the 
rider holding his horse firm, and the captured horse 
pulling and straining on the rope until he became so 
choked and exhausted that he was compelled to suc- 
cumb. 

It was very hazardous sport, and required the 
greatest nerve and the best horsemanship. If a rider 
found himself in the midst of a band of wild horses 
there was danger that he and his horse might be over- 
ridden and trampled to death. This sometimes occurred. 

When fifty or sixty of the wild horses were thus 
captured, they were taken to the ranchos, corralled at 
night and herded in the daytime, until they became 
sufficiently subdued to be introduced among the horses 
of the ranch. 

This was great diversion for the young men, and 
at the same time it added to their stock the best ani- 
mals of the wild herds. It is presumed there were as 
many as fifteen or twenty thousand of wild horses in 
different bands, in the San Joaquin valley. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The Cattle tamed by frequent Rodoes— Manner of Collecting the Cattle together 
— Neighboring Rancheros attend the Rodeos to look after their own Brands 
—The Pursuit of Break-away cattle— The Novel Method of Reducing them 
to Obedience— A Rodeo Described — Beef the Chief Food of Californians, 
which accounts for their Health and Longevity. 

Although the cattle belonging to the various 
ranchos were wild, yet they were under training to 
some extent, and were kept in subjection by constant 
rodeos. At stated times, say, two or three times a 
week at first, the cattle on a particular ranch were driven 
in by the vaqueros, from all parts thereof, to a spot 
known as the rodeo ground, and kept there for a few 
hours, when they were allowed to disperse. Shortly 
they were collected again, once a week perhaps, and 
then less seldom, until after considerable training, being 
always driven to the same place, they came to know it. 
Then, whenever the herd was wanted, all that was ne- 
cessary for the vaqueros to do was, say twenty-five 
or thirty of them, to ride out into the hills and valleys 
and call the cattle, shouting and screaming to them, 
when the animals would immediately run to the accus- 
tomed spot ; presently the whole vast herd belonging to 
the ranch finding their way there. 

At times, cattle strayed from one ranch to another 
and got into the wrong herd. Whenever a rodeo was 
to be held, the neighbors of the ranchero were given 
notice and attended at the time and place designated. 



42 SPORTS OF THE VAQUEROS. 

If any of these cattle were found in the band, they 
were picked out, separated, and driven back to the 
rancho where they belonged. As the cattle were all 
branded, and each rancho had ear-marks, this was not 
difficult. ■ 

Sometimes when cattle were being herded in a 
rodeo, an obstinate or unruly animal, cow, steer or bull 
— commonly a bull — watching an opportunity, suddenly 
darted from the herd and ran away at full speed. The 
vaquero, being always on the alert and knowing his 
duty well, immediately dashed out after the animal. 
Being on a fleet horse he presently came up with the 
runaway, and by a dexterous movement, leaning over 
his horse, seized the creature by the tail, when, urging 
the steed to an extra effort, the horse dashed forward, 
giving a sudden jerk, and the tail being let go by the 
vaquero at the right moment, the animal was rolled 
over and over on the ground. When it regained its 
legs it was completely subdued, tamely submitted to be 
driven back to the herd and was not inclined to repeat 
the experiment. ' 

The capture was called colliar. It was highly en- 
joyed by the vaquero, and was a feat requiring no little 
skill, strength, nerve and horsemanship on his part. 
The ranchero himself when out riding with his friends, 
for their amusement and his own, would sometimes 
separate an animal from the herd, run him off to one 
side, gallop alongside, catch him by the tail and skill- 
fully turn him over and over, creating a good deal of 



GATHERING CATTLE AT RODEOS. 43 

merriment. At times the sagacious animal, knowing 
what was coming, would draw his tail down under his 
body. This manoeuvre did not prevent its being seized, 
nevertheless. 

The rodeo ground was of circular shape ; the va- 
queros always left the cattle together in that form. 
When a rodeo took place, six or eight cabestros, or tame 
cattle, were brought together in a stand, or parada, 
about one hundred yards or more from the rodeo, in 
charge of a vaquero. When the cattle were to be se- 
lected from the rodeo, the vaqueros rode quietly in 
among them, in pairs, and two of them, seeing one they 
wanted to remove, gently approached the animal, one 
on each side, and, without making any disturbance, 
edged him along to ,one side of the rodeo ground op- 
posite to where \.\\q parada stood. When they got just 
to the edge, they gave him a sudden start, by shouting 
^' fiord' (now), and off he went at full speed, followed 
by them. Seeing the paj^ada a little distance off, the 
wild steer or cow generally made for that, or, if he or 
she turned to one side, was guided by the vaqueros, 
and, on reaching it, stopped with the tame cattle, or was 
compelled to if not so inclined. The cattle when 
taken first in this way to the parada, finding them- 
selves with a strange set and few in number were 
uneasy ; but the vaqueros continuing to bring in others, 
the numbers increasing rapidly, the new comers would 
feel more at home, and generally remained quiet. If 



44 GREETINGS AT RODEOS. 

one bolted from theparada, a vaquero pursued him and 
performed the <r^//z"^r movement, and he returned tamely 
and made no more trouble, As many as were required 
were broug-ht to the parada by the vaqueros, until fifty 
or seventy-five were thus collected at times, as in the kil- 
ling season, or a less number if selected to be returned 
to their owners, or for sale. Several pairs of vaqueros, 
or a/>ar^adores, were often engaged at the same time 
in the rodeo ground, taking out cattle to be removed 
and conducting them to different paradas. 

When the owners of adjoining ranchos came to the 
rodeo ground to select their cattle, they brought their 
own cabesti'os, and their own vaqueros, who went in and 
picked out the cattle belonging to their special ranchos, 
and took them to their own paradas. Two or three 
hundred cattle belonging to a neighboring ranch would 
be taken from a rodeo at a time. 

The work of separating the cattle, while a necessity, 
was really more of an amusement than a labor, and I 
have frequently participated in it for the sport. On 
such occasions many persons from the different ranchos 
came, as at a cattle fair in the country in our day, to 
exchange greetings and talk over affairs. Sometimes 
they would amuse themselves by joining in the work 
with the vaqueros, in pairs, a point being not to disturb 
or friofhten the whole mass of cattle on the rodeo 
ground. 

The cabestros had holes in their horns, with a 
small spike inserted, by which an unruly beast could be 



ARABIAN STOCK. 45 

attached to one or two other cattle, so to be taken from 
one place to another, when necessary. 

When the horses became disabled, or too poor for 
use, they were generally given away to the poorer 
people of the country, or to Indians who could make 
them useful. 

The California horses were originally from Ara- 
bian stock, imported from Spain by the Padres at the time 
of the first establishment of the Missions. They had 
multiplied here extensively. At first it was very fine 
stock, but it became degenerated by breeding in, gen- 
eration after generation, for over a hundred years. No 
attention was given by the rancheros to the production 
of good stock, either cattle or horses. 

All orejanos (calves without ear-mark or brand) 
not following the cow, were considered as belonging to 
the rancho on which they were found. 

The marking season always commenced about the 
first of February in the southern counties, before the 
hot weather came on, and ended about the middle ot 
May, when both horses and cattle were branded, ear- 
marked and castrated. Rodeos were held at marking 
and slaughtering times, and at other periods often 
enough to keep the animals subdued, and accustomed 
to the premises of the owner. 

At the killing season, cattle were driven from the 
rodeo ground to a particular spot on the rancho, near a 



46 THE CATTLE-SLAUGflTERING INDUSTRY. 

brook and forest. It was usual to slaughter from fifty 
to one hundred at a time, generally steers three years 
old and upward ; the cows being kept for breeding pur- 
poses. The fattest would be selected for slaughter, 
and about two days would be occupied in killing fifty 
cattle, trying out the tallow, stretching the hides and 
curing the small portion of meat that was preserved- 
The occasion was called the matanza. 

The mode of killing cattle was thus : About fifty 
were driven into a corral near the matanza ground ; a 
vaquero then went in on horseback and lassoed a crea- 
ture by the horns, the end of the reata being already 
fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with as much 
thrown out as was necessary, only a portion being used 
in a small space like the corral, the remainder being 
held in the hand in a coil, to be let out or drawn in, as 
circumstances should require. The animal was brought 
out of the corral, and, another vaquero coming up, the 
animal when it reached the spot where it was wanted 
was lassoed by one or both hind legs, and at that mo- 
ment the horse, by a sudden movement, jerked the ani- 
mal to one side or the other, and it was thrown instantly 
to the ground. The man who had him by the head then 
backed his horse, or the horse, understanding the busi- 
ness perfectly, backed himself, until the whole reata was 
straightened out ; and the horse of the vaquero who 
had the creature by the hind legs did the same, the lat- 



THE VAQUEROS SKILLFUL BUTCHERS. 47 

ter vaquero meanwhile fastening his reata more se- 
curely to the saddle, and the two lines were drawn taut. 
The man at the tail end, then dismounting, tied the 
fore legs of the animal together with an extra piece of 
rope, and the hind legs also, drawing all the feet to- 
gether in a bunch and tying them. During this oper- 
ation the man and horse at the head stood firm, and 
the horse without the rider did the same, watching ev- 
ery movement, his ears moving back and forth ; if 
there was any slacking of the reata from the motions of 
the animal, he backed a little further, without any di- 
rection from the vaquero, so intelligent and well-trained 
was the faithful beast. After the steer was thus tied, 
and powerless to rise, the reatas were taken from him 
entirely, and the man on foot stuck a knife in his neck. 
When he was dead, the two took off the skin in a short 
time, not over half an hour, so expert were they at the 
business. At other times, not during the killing sea- 
son, if a beef was required for family use, two vaqueros 
were detailed by the ranchero to go out and bring in a 
fat creature. They selected the best they could find 
from the cattle in the field, lassoed him and brought 
him in to the side or rear of the house, about loo feet 
distant, and convenient to the kitchen, where the steer 
was lassoed by the hind legs, thrown over and killed, 
as above. The skin was laid back on the ground as it 
was taken off, and the creature was cut up on the skin. 
At this time nearly the whole of the meat was used, not 



48 EXCELLENT BEEF. 

merely the choice parts, as at the matanza. In cutting' 
up the animal they first took off in a layer i\\(i fresada 
(literally, blanket), that is, the thick portion covering 
the ribs, which, though tough, was very sweet and pal- 
atable ; and as the Californians, both men and women, 
old and young, were blessed with remarkably sound 
teeth, the toughness was no impediment to its being 
eaten. I never knew an instance of a person of either 
sex or any age among the Californians suffering from 
toothache or decay of teeth, but all preserved their 
teeth in' good condition to extreme old age ; at the same 
time, they did not take any special care of them. I can 
account for the excellent preservation of the teeth only 
upon the ground of an extremely simple mode of liv- 
ing and their temperate habits. 

This mode of slaughter of cattle — lying flat upon 
the ground — preserved a great deal more of the blood 
in the meat than the method in use by Americans. 
The meat was therefore sweeter and more nutritious 
than if the blood had been drained as much as possible, 
as is the custom with us ; though the slaughtering in this 
way seemed somewhat repugnant to a stranger, at first. 
I have heard Americans express this feeling, and have 
experienced it myself, but we soon became accustomed 
to it, and were convinced that the mode of the Califor- 
nians was superior to ours. Capt. Richardson said to 
me that he could account for the fine appearance, the 
health and longevity of the Californians only from the fact 
that their chief article of food was beef; and the beef 



A LADV OVER A CENTURY IN YEARS. 49 

being dressed in the way I have described was more 
nutritious and sustaining than ours. 

During a business visit to Los xAngeles some years 
since, I frequently met Don Dolores Sepulveda, one of 
the oftspring of a prominent family of that name in 
that section of California. Senor Sepulveda stated to 
me one day, speaking of the longevity of some of his 
countrywomen, that there were living in Los Angeles 
county thirty native California women with ages 
ranging from eighty to over one hundred years. 
They were well preserved mentally and physically. In 
Monterey, the old capital under the Mexican regime, 
there are still living a number of women of Castilian 
extraction, who are ninety years old and upward. 
Seiiora Doiia Guadalupe Briones de Miramontes lived 
formerly at the Presidio of San Francisco, near " Polin," 
the name of a spring of water celebrated for certain 
virtues. She is now a resident of Spanishtown, in San 
Mateo county, and a very old lady, being over a century 
in years. I have been informed that she is hale and 
strong, and is able to insert a thread through the small 
eye of a needle, preparatory to her habit of daily sew- 
ing with her hand. It was this woman who cured 
me of a malady and saved me from death years since. 
I was afflicted with the neuralgia in the head from my 
youth, and I had been on the point of death, but Doiia 
Guadalupe's simple remedy relieved me of suffering 
probably to the end of my time. 

4 



CHAPTER IX. 

Horse Breeding — Instinct of Attachment between the Equine Sexes — Their Un- 
easiness at Separation — Grain and Bean Threshing by Mares — A Primitive 
Method. 

In 1840 the Mission of San Jose ordered a 
slaughter of about 2000 bulls, simply for the hides, not 
taking any meat from them. The vaqueros rode into 
the fields, and lassoed and killed them on the spot, 
taking off the hides and little tallow and leaving the 
carcasses there untouched. The rule among the old 
rancheros here was to preserve one bull for every twenty- 
five cows, but in the instance above mentioned they 
had carelessly allowed a large number to grow up with- 
out castration. The Missions did not give so much 
attention to these matters as the regular ranchmen. 
The vaqueros of the Missions were always Indians, 
who were more careless in the management of the 
stock. 

The breeding mares were divided up into man- 
adasy or little bodies of twenty-five, with a stallion for 
each, and so accustomed were they to follow their stall- 
ion that each band kept distinct and never mixed with 
other nianadas. The stallions were equally faithful to 
those under their charge, and never went off to other 
bands. It was the custom of a stallion, on the approach 
of a stranofe horse, or number of horses, to circle round 
his mares keeping them well together, and driving the 



HERDINC; MARES IN BANDS. 5 1 

visitors away, so jealous were they of intruders. I have 
never known them to mix in any way, but to keep their 
companies distinct. The inanadas were formed at 
first by the vaqueros herding the band during- the 
day, and at night securing them in a corral. They con- 
tinued this day after day until the animals had become 
so accustomed to the arrangement that there was no 
danger of their separating. They were then left to go 
free, and continued together month after month and year 
after year. A stallion when taken away from his inan- 
adas and confined in a corral would squeal and neigh 
and manifest the greatest uneasiness and anxiety until 
restored to his company. Except for this training to 
form them into inanadas, these mares were entirely wild 
and unbroken. They were never used for riding, and 
only occasionally for work at the harvest season. They 
were kept for breeding purposes, and it was not consid- 
ered a proper or becoming thing for a lady or gentle- 
man to ride a mare ; it would, in fact, have been regarded 
as humiliating. 

The tails and manes of the mares of the manadas 
were closely cut. The hair was utilized for ropes, made 
by the vaqueros by twisting and braiding together. 
Those made from the tails were used by the vaqueros 
for reins and halters in breaking in young colts, and 
those made from the manes, being of finer quality, were 
used by the rancheros themselves. The hair being of 
different colors and skillfully worked together, these 
hair ropes were very pretty and ornamental, as well as 



52 THRESHING GRAIN BY TREADING PROCESS. 

very strong. I once asked an old ranchero, Don Do- 
mingo Peralta, why the manes and tails of the stallions 
attached to the manadas were not cut also. He replied, 
''Las yegtias los aboj'recen " — (the mares would take 
a dislike to them, would lose their respect and affec- 
tion for them, and would not recognize them as their 
stallions). 

When the grain was cut at harvesting, the mares 
were employed in threshing it. I have seen at the 
rancho of San Leandro four manadas, or lOO mares, en- 
gaged in threshing barley. While they were at work 
during the day the stallions were separated from them 
and kept in different corrals. At the end of the day, 
when the work was done, they were released ; the 
mares being set free also, the stallions would go to work 
and separate the mares, each getting his own band to- 
gether, and the mares, recognizing their own stallion, 
would flock round him. 

The threshing was accomplished in a very primi- 
tive way : A circular piece of ground, known as hera, 
containing, say. an acre and a half, was inclosed by a 
fence, smooth on the inside. The ground was prepared 
by putting water on it, levelling and pounding it until 
it became firm and hard. A large quantity of grain was 
then thrown into this circular space, and seventy-five to 
one hundred mares were turned in to the place', with 
two or three vaqueros mounted on powerful horses, 
with whips in their hands, who drove the mares round 
and round the circle, shouting "Yeguas! Yeguas ! 
Yeguas ! " (Pronounced jay'-goo-ah.) 



WHEAT RAISED AT THE MISSIONS. 53 

When the mares became dizzy from circling round 
in this way, they were turned and driven in the opposite 
direction. This was continued actively until the grain 
was well threshed out. The grain was winnowed in 
an equally primitive manner, the process requiring a day 
when a good breeze was blowing. The threshed grain 
was pushed well to one side of the inclosure by the har- 
vesters, and a good space cleaned off. Then, with large 
wooden shovels, they took it up and threw it as high 
as possible against the wind, which blew the chaff and 
straw away, while the heavier grain fell down on the 
clean ground which had been prepared for it. In this 
way they got it out quite clean, also nice and whole, 
not broken, as it is more or less in passing through a 
threshing machine. 

The Missions of San Jose and Santa Clara would 
use two or three hundred mares in a hera of four or 
five acres in extent. The Missions commonly raised, 
each, from six to eiofht hundred acres of wheat for their 
own use. The mares were also used for the threshing 
of beans by the same process. 



CHAPTER X. 

How Taxes were Imposed for the Support of the Department — Governor Alvar- 
ado's Order for the Arrest of Americans — The Arrests that were made — 
Yerba Buena placed under Martial Law by General Vallejo — Disposition of 
the Arrested Parties — News of the Arrests sent by Consul Larkin to Wash- 
ington — Action of the United States Government — The Principal Rancheros 
Anticipate the Annexation of California to the United States— The Ques- 
tion only one of Time — Their Reasons for not Earnestly Opposing the 
Measure, 

The government of the department of CaHfornia 
imposed no tax upon the people of the country, and was 
mainly supported by revenue duties imposed on cargoes 
of foreign vessels sold in the country, which amounted 
to eighty to one hundred per centum of the invoice 
prices. This was considered very exorbitant, and offered 
a temptation to foreign traders to smuggle, which was 
largely availed of. Occasionally the government of the 
department would draw on the home government to as- 
sist in its financial matters. 

In April, 1840, an event transpired which occa- 
sioned considerable excitement on this coast. An 
order was issued by Governor Alvarado, through the 
prefect, Don Jose Ramon Estrada, for the arrest of 
all the resident Americans in the department, with 
some exceptions. General Manuel Castro, who is 
still living at Monterey, has recently informed me that 
this movement originated with Governor Alvarado 
and General Jose Castro ; that they had been in- 



VERBA BUENA UNDER MARTIAL LAW. 55 

formed that the Americans were preparing to rise 
against the government of the department, take pos- 
sesion of it, assassinate them, and assume control of 
the department affairs in behalf of the United States; 
that Alvarado and Castro becoming alarmed for their 
personal safety, as well as that of the department, in 
order to prevent this outbreak, issued the order above 
mentioned. Don Manuel, in giving me this informa- 
tion, said, with a smile, he did not think the Americans 
had any such design. He thought Alvarado and Gen- 
eral Jose Castro were unduly alarmed. This is Don 
Manuel Castro's version of the matter. My own opin- 
ion is that Governor Alvarado had been secretly in- 
structed by the home government to be constantly on 
the alert for any movements or designs of the Ameri- 
cans for getting possession of the country, and becoming 
alarmed himself, ordered the arrest. 

Governor Alvarado issued his orders through the 
prefect to the different sub-prefects and alcaldes of the 
department to arrest all Americans within their several 
districts. This was accomplished, the arrests being 
made by the military, under the instructions of the civil 
officers. About seventy persons were thus arrested, 
nearly all Americans ; a few of other nationalities were 
also taken, under the mistaken impression that they 
were Americans. While these arrests were being made 
General Vallejo, with his staff and about seventy sol- 
diers, came from Sonoma to Yerba Buena and placed 
the town under martial orders for a few days, when he 



56 CAPTIVES SENT TO MONTEREY. 

left with his forces for Monterey. Yerba Buena con- 
tained at that time about twenty-five inhabitants, men, 
women and children all t.old. The captives were sent to 
Monterey, some by water and some by land, under 
military guard, as soon as possible after the arrest. 
They were put into the government house under a mil- 
itary guard, and were kept there until all were collected, 
being well treated. They were then transported to San 
Bias in the Mexican bark " Joven Guipuzcoana," cap- 
tain Joseph Snooks, an Englishman who had sworn al- 
legiance to the Mexican government. They were ac- 
companied by General Jose Castro, who was in charge 
of them. The owner of the vessel was Don Jose An- 
tonio Aguirre, a native of Spain, an old merchant of 
this coast, living at Santa Barbara. Prominent among 
the prisoners was a pioneer to the coast from Kentucky, 
by the name of Isaac Graham, who lived at Santa Cruz. 
He was an old hunter and trapper, and at the time of 
his arrest was engaged in stock-raising and getting out 
lumber, having a water-mill there, and owned the Ran- 
cho Cyante. 

The news of the arrest was communicated to 
Washington as speedily as possible by Thomas O. Lar- 
kin. United States consul at Monterey, and orders were 
sent out through the United States Minister at Mexico, 
to Commodore Claxton, in command of the Pacific 
squadron, to look into the matter, and he dispatched the 
United States sloop of war " St, Louis," captain For- 
est, to Monterey. She arrived there shortly after the 



THE MEXICAN OFFICIALS DISTRUSTFUL. 57 

departure of the " Joven Guipuzcoana" with the prison- 
ers. In fact the two vessels passed each other shortly 
before the " St. Louis" arrived, the captain, of course, 
not being aware that the other vessel contained the 
prisoners. She remained there a short time and went 
southward, not visiting the bay of San F'rancisco at that 
time. She again visited the upper coast in the sum- 
mer of 1 84 1, coming direct to the bay of San Fran- 
cisco, and proceeding thence to Monterey. 

This movement was one of the manifestations of 
the old feeling of jealousy which existed on the part of 
the Mexican government towards the government of 
the United States. There had for some time existed a 
suspicion on the part of the Mexican officials of Cali- 
fornia against the Americans in the department, which 
was, doubtless, natural enough, as they desired to re- 
tain their positions with all the honors and benefits per- 
taining thereto. A fear prevailed that the Americans 
in the department of California, although few in num- 
ber, might band together and conspire against the legit- 
imate government, overpower and take possession of it. 
Consequently, in order to be on the safe side and avert 
this danger, they thought it best to arrest these Amer- 
icans and get them out of the department. 

This feeling of distrust or partial hostility on the 
part of the officials was well understood among the 
Americans in the department, who, however, I am con- 
vinced, had no desig-n whatever agfainst the o-overn- 
ment, at least no such idea was ever discussed or sug- 



5b THE RANCHEROS FRIENDLY TO AMERICANS, 

sugg^ested to my knowledge, although for a long time it 
had been the common talk among the Americans when 
among themselves or in company with the rancheros 
that at some future time the United States would hold 
possession of California, and that our government 
would never permit any other nation to be the possessors 
of this territory. But the idea of the few Americans 
then in California upsetting the government of that de- 
partment existed only in the minds of the officials, 
strengthened, doubtless, by advices from the home gov- 
ernment of Mexico to be constantly on the alert and 
avert anything of the kind, if threatened. While the 
officials were thus jealous and inimical, on the other hand, 
the rancheros, the owners of the large estates and the 
immense herds of cattle and horses, of whom I have 
spoken, were exceedingly friendly to the Americans and 
the United States government. They often expressed 
to me and to other Americans in the department the 
hope that at some time the stars and stripes would float 
over California, and she become a part of the United 
States. . In their intercourse with the American traders 
and others who had visited the coast they could not fail 
to perceive the American superiority in intelligence, 
education and business ability. They naturally felt a 
respect for the government of the country to which such 
men belonged, and a desire that they might also share 
in these advantages for themselves and their children ; 
that their children might be better educated, their agri- 
cultural methods improved, their lands better cultivated 



CONSTANT REVOLUTIONS NOT FAVORED. 59 

and enhanced in value, their horses and cattle made 
more valuable by improving the stock, and other desir- 
able things secured, all of which they were sufficiently 
intelligent to appreciate and desire for themselves, and 
so, without reserve, they frankly expressed their liking 
for the Americans and their wish to be united with 
them. 

These Californians frequently expressed to me 
their dislike of the constant revolutions to which the 
Mexican people were addicted, and said they would feel 
better protected under the American government and 
more secure in life and property, than under the Mexi- 
can government. In these revolutions their sons were 
often wrested from them and forced into the army, in 
the service of the party then dominant and nearest at 
hand. They were taken from fourteen years old and 
upwards, much to the dread and distress of the parents, 
though it may be mentioned that the risks of the ser- 
vice were not very great, since it was a rare thing for 
anybody to be killed in these revolutions. The 
women of California, without exception, were wholly 
loyal to their own government, and hated the idea of 
any change ; although they respected the Americans, 
treated them with great cordiality and politeness, and 
entertained them hospitably at their homes, they would 
not countenance the sug^aestion that the United States 
or any other foreign power should assume control 
of the countrv. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Arrest and Release of Nathan Spear— The Author is one of the Arrested— ^Yhile a 
Prisoner attends an Entertainment — An Attractive Hostess — Further action 
of the Government of the United States concerning the Arrests — A General 
Delivery of Prisoners — An Explanation and Disclaimer — The Latter 
probably Insincere. 

Nathan Spear was arrested with the other Ameri- 
cans, and taken to Monterey by a guard of soldiers, 
but was soon released by the governor, who had been 
a clerk for Spear in former years at Monterey and had 
a high esteem for him. The governor, therefore, made 
an exception in his behalf. At that time I was in the 
employ of Spear, the principal manager of his commer- 
cial house at Yerba Buena. I was also arrested and 
taken to the headquarters of the sub-prefect, Don Fran- 
cisco Guerrero, at the Mission Dolores, and was there 
a prisoner for twenty-four hours. During my incarcer- 
ation I was very kindly treated by the sub-prefect and 
his amiable wife, Doiia Josefa, daughter of Don Fran- 
cisco de Haro, who was alcalde at that time. In the 
evening I was entertained by this lady with a beautiful 
little dancing party at her house, at which were present 
six or eight lovely young ladies and about as many 
young California gentlemen. 

We had a delightful time. On that occasion, Doiia 
Josefa, who had been married only a year, and who was 
a graceful woman, with full, brilliant black eyes, wore 
her hair unconfined, flowine at full length, rich and lux- 



FASCINATIONS OF YOUTH AND BEAUTY. 6 1 

uriant, reaching nearly to her feet ; as she moved in 
the figures of the dance she presented a fascinating 
picture of youth and beauty that I could not but ad- 
mire. The dancing continued till a late hour, and the 
affair was so very enjoyable that I hardly realized that 
I was a prisoner of State. The sub-prefect assumed 
the responsibility of releasing me in the morning, and 
remarked at the time that he would receive an order 
to that effect from the seat of government, procured 
by Spear. This subsequently proved to be correct, 
and I had no further trouble. 

There were a few exceptions to this general arrest 
of Americans, among them Don /\bel Stearns at Los 
Angeles, he being a very early pioneer to this country, 
a prominent and wealthy merchant at that time, and 
always very highly respected by the officials. He had 
been in the country so long that he was rather consid- 
ered as belonging to it, though he was a Bostonian 
originally. Another was Don Juan B. Cooper at Mon- 
terey, who had also been long in the country, having 
arrived here in 1823 in the American schooner " Thad- 
deus." He had been a shipmaster, and at the time of 
the arrest was engaged in the business of stock-raising. 
He was married to a sister of General Vallejo, was in- 
timate with the officials and respected by them. 

There were also a few other old residents, who had 
married into California families, who were excepted ; 
among them William G. Dana, Francis Branch, Daniel 
Hill, Lewis T. Burton and Isaac Sparks, all of Santa 
Barbara. None of the agents, supercargoes or cap- 



62 TRANSPORTED TO TEPIC. 

tains of vessels on the coast at the time of this arrest 
were molested ; only those who resided here contin- 
uously. 

When the news of this arrest was communicated 
to the State Department at Washington by the United 
States consul at Monterey, Thomas O. Larkin, instruc- 
tions were sent to the United States Minister at the 
City of Mexico, and through his intercession with the 
Mexican government these prisoners were released 
in a month or two after their arrival at San Bias, 
whence they had been transported to Tepic. While 
they were at the latter place orders came from the 
Mexican government for the release of the prisoners, 
and for the imprisonment of General Castro. The Mexi- 
can government disclaimed having authorized the arrest 
of these people, and its prompt action in ordering their 
release, and causing Castro to be imprisoned, was prob- 
ably for the purpose of giving greater effect to this dis- 
claimer and making everything appear as favorable as 
possible to the American government. At the same 
time I have no doubt the Mexican government was 
really at the bottom of the whole movement, directly 
or indirectly, but after the event had transpired, thought 
best, for prudential reasons, to discountenance it, not de- 
siring to provoke any difficulty with the United States. 
To further strengthen the position of the Mexican 
government in this phase of the matter, it promised 
the United States Minister that these people should be 
indemnified for the trouble and inconvenience to which 
they had been subjected by this movement. 



CHAPTER XII. 

Population of the Department in i838-'39, and its Composition — A Prominent 
Frenchman Arrives — His Nervous Impatience causes him to take an Im- 
promptu Cold Bath — His Mission Suspected of being one of Observation 
for the French Government — He makes a Round of Visits — Captain Sutter 
is Pleased with him — Mutual Respect — His Opinion of the Country and its 
Destiny. 

The population of the department of CaHfornia 
about 1838-39 was probably from ten to twelve thou- 
sand, exclusive of Indians, who numbered about twenty 
thousand. Christianized, 

In 1840, Mofras, a Frenchman, visited the coast 
in a French frigate (name forgotten), and landed at Yerba 
Buena. He was a French official, a kind of traveling- 
ambassador to observe the different countries of the 
world. I think he came here from the coast of Peru 
and Chili. There were but few houses here at the 
time, and the most prominent was the residence and 
commercial establishment of Nathan Spear on the 
spot which is now the north-west corner of Clay and 
Montgomery streets. He was invited by Spear to be- 
come his guest. He was there several months, making 
that his headquarters, traveling about the bay and to 
different points in the interior. As I was in Spear's 
employ I saw a good deal of Mofras, became quite 
well acquainted with him, and was much pleased with 
him, as were all those with whom he came in contact. 
He was an educated gentleman, master of several Ian- 



64 MOFRAS NEARLY DROWNS. 

guages besides his own, among them EngHsh, Spanish, 
and German, He was a close observer of everything, 
and, Hke most Frenchmen, excited in his conversation 
and manner. In my business trips about the bay in 
the schooner " Isabel," he frequently accompanied me. 
On one occasion, in coming up to the town in the 
schooner from Read's ranch, on the opposite side of 
the bay, the captain of the vessel went a little too near 
the flat off North Beach, and the schooner grounded. 
We were compelled to lie there for an hour or two, 
waiting for the tide to float us off Monsieur Mofras 
soon became impatient and excited, and finally he got 
so restless and uneasy that he could no longer restrain 
himself. In spite of my persuasions and remonstrances 
he leaped overboard, with his clothes on, waded and 
swam ashore, and proceeded dripping wet to the house. 
On his arrival there. Spear was astonished to see him 
in that plight, and at first thought the schooner had 
been wrecked. I used to joke with him afterwards 
about his jumping overboad, and he confessed to me 
that he would not do it again ; that in a deep place be- 
tween the shoal and the beach, it was with great diffi- 
culty he kept from drowning, as his long boots had 
filled with water and the weight of his clothes bore 
him down. 

It was understood that Mofras was on a tour of 
general observation for the French government. 
During his visit here he was in correspondence with the 
officials at home, but it is not known that his visit had 



MOFRAS AND SUTTER. 65 

any political bearing or significance, and if he had any 
instructions in this direction from the government he did 
not disclose them. During his stay on the coast he 
visited General Sutter, in Sacramento valley, stoppin^^ 
there a month or two ; also General Vallejo at the 
military headquarters at Sonoma, sojourning there one 
or two weeks. He also visited Monterey, the seat of 
the government, where he was courteously and hos- 
pitably received by Governor Alvarado and the other 
officials. Next, he visited Don Alexander Rotcheff at 
the Russian Fur Company's headquarters at Fort Ross, 
and he went also to other prominent points. He was 
very cordially received and entertained by Rotcheff 
and his wife, both of whom spoke the French lan- 
guage perfectly, and ]\ I ofras therefore felt quite at home 
in their company. Don Alexander when visiting Yerba 
Buena spoke of Mofras and praised him. The visit to 
Sutter pleased him greatly. He spoke of Sutter in 
the highest terms, and thought his establishment and 
operations in the Sacramento valley would people and 
develop that immense country sooner than it could 
otherwise have been done, as he believed Sutter 
would induce a large immigration to that point by the 
numerous letters he had written home to his own 
country and to the United States. Mofras was very 
favorably impressed with California, and he frequently 
spoke of its future importance, thinking it would some 
day be a great country, and he freely expressed his 
opinion that it would belong to the United States. Con- 
5 



66 AN INDIAN TRADITION. 

sidering its natural resources and advantages he thought 
that under the United States government it would be- 
come a rich and important section. His admiration 
and astonishment at the bay of San Francisco were fre- 
quently expressed, and I have seen hini many times 
standing in front of Mr. Spear's store, at the corner 
of Montgomery and Clay streets, which was then quite 
near the water, and go into raptures on looking at the 
bay, stretching out his arms with enthusiasm and ex- 
claming with delight, Frenchman-like, at the broad and 
beautiful expanse of water before us, predicting that it 
would be a great field for com'merce ; and saying again 
and again, he had never seen anything like it and the 
more he traveled over it the more he was impressed 
with its grandeur and importance. 

Spear had a very high opinion of Mofras, and I 
will mention a little incident which occurred one day 
when Mofras was stopping at Spear's house. We were 
at dinner, and the servant in passing a plate to Mofras 
accidently touched his glass with it, which gave out a 
sharp ring, and instantly Mofras placed one of his 
fingers on the glass to stop the sound. Spear men- 
tioned it afterward as an illustration of the good breed- 
ing of the Frenchman. 

A curious tradition was current in regard to the 
bay of San Francisco, which greatly interested Mofras, 
as well as myself and others who heard it. Captain 
Richardson, who has been mentioned before in this 
narrative, had in his employ at that time an Indian by 



THE GOLDEN GATE HOW FORMED. 67 

the name of Monica. He was about eighty years of 
age, but still active and vigorous, and was employed by 
Captain Richardson as boatman on the bay, in launches 
which were used to run between the shipping and dif- 
ferent points to convey goods back and forth. This 
old Indian told Captain Richardson that the story had 
been handed down from his remote ancestors, that a 
long way back there was no Golden Gate ; that between 
Fort Point and right across to the north it was all closed 
by a mountain range, and there was no access to the 
ocean there, but the natural outlet of the bay was 
through the SantaClara valley, across the Salinas plains, 
to the bay of Monterey ; that in a tremendous convul- 
sion of nature the mounttain barrier between the bay and 
the ocean was thrown down and a passage made where 
the Golden Gate now is. That became the entrance to 
the bay. In the course of time the Santa Clara valley 
and the other land between the lower end of the bay 
of San Francisco and the bay of Monterey became 
drained and elevated. 

In this connection, I may mention that I have seen 
sea-shells which were brought up from a depth of loS 
feet in boring an artesian well at San Leandro, and I 
learn that shells were found in Alameda at a depth of 
about 100 feet. 

Captain Richardson frequently alluded to this tra- 
dition in the presence of Nathan Spear, Monsieur Mo- 
fras and myself. Mofras being a scientific man, he be- 
came so impressed with this statement that he rode out 



68 MIRACULOUS WATERS AT THE PRESIDIO. 

to Fort Point two or three times to examine personally 
the features of that part of the bay, and from his obser- 
vations there and of the country between here and the 
bay of Monterey he expressed his opinion that the 
theory or tradition was probably correct. In frequent 
conversations at the dinner table he became quite en- 
thusiastic in dilating upon the geological appearance 
and indications of the country, especially in reference 
to this story related by the old Indian Monica in regard 
to the Golden Gate. 

Near the Presidio, about three-quarters of a mile 
southeast from the barracks, in the grounds of the 
Miramontes family, was a very remarkable spring called 
" Polin " — an Indian name. The spring was celebrated 
from a very remote period for its virtues, which were 
handed down from the Indians for several generations, 
and afterward through the Californians. It is claimed 
that it possessed the remarkable power of producing 
fecundity in women who were childless, and who par- 
took of its waters. Many authentic instances could be 
quoted in support of this assumption. In proof it may 
be mentioned that the Miramontes family, living on the 
spot, had twenty children, and other families living in 
that neighborhood were blessed with a large progeny. 
Many who came to the place from a distance, by the 
advice of friends, to test the wonderful qualities of the 
water, were alike rewarded for their faith by a happy 
increase in their families. The firsc wife of William D. 
M. Howard, a well known early San Franciscan, for 



THE RAINY WINTER OF 1839-4O. 69 

several years without children, went thither by the ad- 
vice of Mrs. Miramontes, and at the proper time was 
blessed with a lovely little daui^hter. Other instances 
might be given in proof of its efficacy in this direction. 

The winter of 1839-40 was a severe one in Cali- 
fornia, an immense quantity of rain falling. It poured 
down for forty days and nights, with but little cessation. 
Old Domingo Peralta, who had come across the bay to 
Yerba Buena with his family, in a boat, to obtain sup- 
plies, was caught here and obliged to remain several 
weeks, stopping at Spear's house with his large family 
of ten or twelve persons until he could re-cross the bay 
to get home. 

After Captain Sutter had established himself in 
the Sacramento valley, he sent a boat to Yerba Buena 
about once in two weeks for the purpose of obtain- 
ing supplies for his station, Spear being his agent. 
During the prolonged storms of this year the whole 
country was flooded, and communication w^as conse- 
quently interrupted, and we didn't hear from Captain 
Sutter for more than a month. At last a boat made its 
appearance, bringing a letter from him, in which he de- 
scribed the country as one vast expanse of water. 
Among the stories he mentioned was of seeing the 
deer, elk and other animals crowded together in large 
numbers on every little prominence which appeared 
above the waters, to protect themselves from being car- 
ried away by the flood. The boat, in endeavoring to 
return, was unable to stem the current, which was so 



yO CAPTAIN SUTTER SENDS FOR SUPPLIES. 

Strong and rapid as to keep her on the passage several 
weeks before she reached Sutter's place again. The 
boat's captain was a Swiss, and the boatmen Indians, 
formerly of the Missions, who had returned to their 
wild Indian life. 

Some years before my first arrival here in 183 1, 
there was an exceedingly dry- season. The priest at 
the head of the Mission of Santa Clara ordered the de- 
slruction of several thousand head of horses and mares 
belonging to the Mission, which was accomplished by 
drowning them in the Guadalupe river, in order to pre- 
serve the feed for the cattle, as there was not enough 
for all, and the cattle were re^jarded as of more value 
than the horses. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

The Priests and the Missions — The Work of Converting Indians — Missions under 
rule of the Mexican Republic — Culture and Attainments of the Priests — 
Father Gonzales — Horses supplied Gratuitously to the Traders by the 
Rancheros and Padres — The Supercargo sometimes owned his own Horses 
— Manner of Trading with Incoming Vessels — Comforts of the Adobe 
Dwelling — Family Traveling Equipages — Houses and House-keeping — A 
Word of Praise for Native California Ladies — Educational Facilities Scarce 
— Sites Selected for Dwellings. 

The priests of California belonged to the Order of 
Franciscans. Their ordinary dress was a loose woolen 
garment, made whole and put on over the head, reach- 
ing nearly to the ground, of a plain drab or brownish 
hue, which was the color of the Order. The dress was 
made with wide sleeves, a hood falling back on the 
shoulders, which could be drawn over the head when 
it was desired by the wearer, if the weather was cold 
or unpleasant ; and at the waist was a girdle and tassels 
of the same material tied around the dress or habit, 
the tassels hanging down in front. Sometimes they 
were left untied. One requirement of the Order was 
that every priest should have shaven on the crown of 
the head a circular spot about three or four inches in 
diameter. This I noticed among all of them. As the 
hair commenced growing it was again shaved, and this 
spot was always kept bare. 

The priests at the various Missions were usually 
men of very pure character, particularly the Spanish 



72 INDIANS ADVANCED IN CIVILIZATION. 

priests. The first priests who estabh'shed the Missions 
were directly from Spain. They were superior men in 
point of talent, education, morals and executive ability, 
as the success of the Missions under their establishment 
and administration showed. They seemed to be en- 
tirely disinterested, their aim and ambition being to de- 
velop the country, and civilize and Christianize the In- 
dians, for which purpose the Missions were established. 
They worked zealously and untiringly in this behalf, and 
to them must be given the credit for what advancement 
in civilization, intelligence, industry, good habits and 
good morals pertained to the country at that day, when 
they laid the foundation of the present advanced civil- 
ization and development of the country. 

After the independence of Mexico, and its separa- 
tion from Spain, the Missions of California passed un- 
der the control of Mexican priests, who were also men 
of culture and attainments, generally of excellent char- 
acter, but as a class they were inferior to their predeces- 
sors. They were always hospitable to strangers, all vis- 
itors were kindly received and entertained with the best 
they could offer, and the table was well supplied. 
The wine which they made at the Missions was of a 
superior quality and equal to any that I have drank 
elsewhere. 

In trading through the country and traveling from 
point to point it was customary for travelers to stop at 
the Missions as frequently and as long as they desired. 
This was expected as a matter of course by the priests, 



FATHER GONZALES. 73 

and had the traveler neglected to avail himself of the 
privilege it would have been regarded as an offense by 
the good Fathers. On approaching the Mission the 
traveler would be met at the door or at the wide ve- 
randa by the Padre, who would greet him warmly, em- 
brace him and invite him in, and he was furnished with 
the best the Mission afforded at the table, given one of 
the best rooms to sleep in, attended by servants, and 
everything possible was done to make him at home 
and comfortable during his stay. On leaving he 
was furnished with a fresh horse, and a good vaquero 
was appointed to attend him to the next Mission, where 
he was received and entertained with the same hospi- 
tality, and so on as far as the journey extended. 

The last of the Mexican priests was Father Gon- 
zales, who presided in '38 at the Mission of San Jose, 
and who died a few years ago at the Mission of Santa 
Barbara at a very advanced age. He was a noble man, 
a true Christian, very much respected and beloved by 
all his people, and by all who knew him. Whenever 
I went there he always welcomed me in the most cor- 
dial manner, and the moment I saw him I felt drawn 
toward him as by a lodestone. He would take me in 
and say, '' Sienta usted Jiijito'' (sit down, my little son), 
and seating himself close by my side, he entertained me 
in such delightful manner by his conversation, which 
flowed easily and naturally in a continuous stream, that 
one hardly realized that he was only an humble priest. 
His people greatly honored and loved him, and he was 



74 TRAVELERS ENTERTAINED AT THE :\riSSIONS. 

known among them as The Saint on Earth." There 
were some exceptions among the priests as to general 
rectitude and excellence of character, as there are every- 
where ; but as a class they were a fine body of men of 
superior character, and accomplished a vast deal of good. 
The priests were much respected by the people, who 
looked to them for advice and guidance. 

The supercargoes of the vessels that were trading 
on the coast, of course had occasion to visit all the set- 
tlements in the interior or along the coast to conduct 
their business with the people, and to travel back and 
forth up and down the country. In visiting down the 
coast they usually went on the vessels, which had a fair 
wind most of the time going south ; but on coming up 
there was commonly a head wind, which made the 
voyage tedious, and the supercargoes then took to 
land and came up on horseback, accompanied by a va- 
quero, stopping along from one Mission to another or 
at some rancho, where they were always welcome, and 
where they were supplied with fresh horses whenever 
they required them, free of charge, by the Fathers or 
the rancheros. These horses were furnished as a mat- 
ter of course with entire freedom and hospitality by the 
farmers and the Padres. When the traveler reached 
another stopping place he was provided with a fresh 
horse, and such a thing as continuing the journey on 
the horse he rode the day before was not to be thought 
of, so polite and courteous were these generous Califor- 
nians. The traveler had no further care or thou^rht in 



SUPERCARGOES SUrPLIED WITH HORSES. 75 

resfard to the horse he h;id been usincr, but left him 
where he happened to be, and the Padre or ranchero 
would undertake to send him back, or if this was not 
convenient it was no matter, as the owner would never 
ask any questions concerning his safety or return. It 
would have been considered impoliteness for the guest 
to express any concern about the horse or what was 
to become of him. Sometimes the traveler, was fur- 
nished by the rancheros with part of a caponera, ten or 
twelve horses with a bell mare, and a vaquero, in order 
that he might continue his journey to the end without 
looking for other horses. He would travel along from 
day to day, changing his horse each day and sometimes 
oftener, and also that of his vaquero, and on reaching 
his journey's end the vaquero would return with the 
horses. 

In later years, say after 1844, some of the smaller 
rancheros gave more attention to horses than cattle 
making it a speciality to have always on hand several 
fine caponeras for the accommodation of travelers, who 
in these latter years were accustomed to hire the num- 
ber of horses they required for their journey, with a bell 
mare, and a vaquero to accompany them, or at times 
the owner of the horses himself went with them. Santa 
Barbara, and to some extent Los Angeles, were points 
especially where horses were furnished in this way. 
Some of the supercargoes of the vessels owned their 
horses, to the number of twelve to fifteen, and employed 
a vaquero continuously. When the su[)ercargoes were 



76 HIDES AND TALLOW IN LARGE WAGONS. 

at sea the vaqueros looked after these horses, and took 
them from point to point to meet the vessel when she 
would come into a certain port. When the supercargo 
landed he would find his horses there, and journey with 
them from place to place as his business required. The 
vaquero, while waiting for the vessel, would stay with 
some family, probably one of his relatives, of whom he 
most likely had many in various parts of California, and 
the horses would feed in the vicinity. Many supercar- 
goes preferred this method, as they could always thus 
have the horses and vaqueros to which they were accus- 
tomed. As the supercargo came to a Mission or rancho 
near a port, he would stop a few days waiting for the 
vessel to come along, and its approach was sometimes 
announced by a vaquero, and sometimes by a gun from 
the vessel. The supercargo would then- go down and 
take with him the customers to whom he was to bill the 
goods from the vessel. The rancheros would attend 
him with their loads of hide and tallow to pay their in- 
debtedness incurred on a former trip, or to make new 
purchases by exchanging them for goods. They would 
convey their hides and tallow in large wagons of very 
primitive fashion. The body of the vehicle was set on 
the axles, having no spring, but with four wheels (the 
smaller wagons with two) sawed out of a tree four feet 
in diameter, and about a foot thick, a solid block or sec- 
tion, with a hole in the middle for the axle. Sticks 
were set up perpendicularly along the sides and covered 
with hides stretched across them, thus inclosino- the body 



ADOBE HOUSES AND BOSTON FURNITURE. ']^ 

of the wagon. In this way they brought back the goods 
they bought. The wagons were drawn by oxen, with 
a nearly straight yoke fitting the top of the neck just 
back of the horns, and fastened with a piece of soft 
hide, and attached thereto and to the wagon. FamiHes 
sometimes took long journeys in these wagons fitted up 
with more style, the sides being lined with calico or 
sheeting, or even light silk, with mattresses on the floor 
of the wagon. \\ ith cooking and eating arrangements 
they went along comfortably, camping by a spring, and 
sleeping in the wagon, traveling days at a time. 

The people lived in adobe houses, and the houses 
had tile roofs ; they were comfortable and roomy, warm 
in the winter and cool in the summer. Their furniture 
was generally plain, mostly imported from Boston in 
the ships that came to the coast to trade. Generally 
the houses had floors, but without carpets in the earlier 
days. Some of the humble people had no floors to their 
houses, but the ground became perfectly hard and firm 
as if cemented. The women were exceedingly clean 
and neat in their houses and persons and in all their 
domestic arrangements. One of their peculiarities was 
the excellence and neatness of their beds and bedding, 
which were often elegant in appearance, highly and 
tastefully ornamented, the coverlids and pillow cases 
being sometimes of satin and trimmed with beautiful 
and costly lace. The women were plainly and becom- 
ingly attired, were not such devotees of fashion as at 
the present day, and did not indulge in jewelry to 



yS DELICIOUS DISHES. 

excess. Their tables were frugally furnished, the 
food clean and inviting, consisting mainly of good 
beef broiled on an iron rod, or steaks with onions, 
also mutton, chicken, eggs, each family keeping a 
good stock of fowls. The bread was tortillas; 
sometimes it was made with yeast. Beans were a staple 
dish with them, admirably cooked, corn, also potatoes ; 
and red peppers were their favorite seasoning. A de- 
licious dish was made of chicken and green corn, partly 
cooked and put together, then wrapped in the green 
leaves of the corn, tied with the same and boiled 
called tamales. Their meat stews were excellent 
when not too highly seasoned with red pepper. 
The people were sober, sometimes using California 
wine, but not to excess. They were not given to strong 
drink, and it was a rare occurrence to see an intoxi- 
cated Californian. The men were good husbands 
generally, the women good wives, both faithful to their 
domestic relations. The California women, married or 
unmarried, of all classes, were the most virtuous I have 
ever seen. There were exceptions, but they were ex- 
ceedingly rare. 

The single men were not so much so, associating 
to some extent with Indian women, although the 
married men were generally excellent husbands and 
kind fathers. 

During my long and intimate acquaintance with 
Californians, I have found the women as a class much 
brighter, quicker in their perceptions, and generally 



TALENT AND TASTE FOR MUSIC. 79 

smarter than the men. Their husbands oftentimes 
looked to them for advice and direction in their general 
business affairs. The people had but limited opportu- 
nities for education. As a rule they were not much 
educated ; but they had abundant instinct and native 
talent, and the women were full of natural dignity and 
self-possession ; they talked well and intelligently, and 
appeared to much better advantage than might have 
been supposed from their meagre educational facilities. 
The families of the wealthier classes had more or less 
education ; their contact with the foreign population was 
an advantage to them in this respect. There were no 
established schools outside the Missions, and what little 
education the young people obtained, they picked up in 
the family, learning to read and write among them- 
selves. They seemed to have a talent and taste for 
music. Many of the women played the guitar skill- 
fully, and the young men the violin. In almost every 
family there were one or more musicians, and every- 
where music was a familiar sound. Of course, they 
had no scientific and technical musical instruction. 

The houses of the rancheros were usually built 
upon entirely open ground, devoid of trees, generally 
elevated, overlooking a wide stretch of the country 
round, in order that they might look out to a distance 
on all sides, and see what was going on, and notice if 
any intruders were about the rancho for the purpose of 
stealing cattle or horses, in which way they were oc- 
casionally annoyed by the Indians, or perhaps by some 



80 COMMANDING SITES OF ADOBE DWELLINGS. 

vicious countrymen ; and the house was placed where 
there was a spring or running water. These houses 
stood out bare and plain, with no adornment of trees, 
shrubbery or flowers, and there were no structures, 
except the kitchens, attached to the main buildings. 
Even in the towns it was a rare thing to see flowers or 
shrubbery about the houses of the Californians. 

I have often inquired of the rancheros, on seeing 
a beautiful and shaded spot, why they did not select it 
for their residence, and they would always answer it 
was too near the forest — they having in view always 
security against the Indians. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Indian Treachery — Fighting the Indians — An Indian Arrow Wound ultimately 
causes the Death of Comandante Juan Prado Mesa — 'I'he Californians Early 
Risers — Daily Customs of the Rancheros — Dress of the Leisure Season — 
Costume of the Native Californian when Mounted— Trappings of his Horse 
— Gallantry in the vSaddle — Habits of the Household — Gray-headed Persons 
Scarce — A Contented People — Class Distinctions — Courtesy a Common 
Thing — Home Entertainments — The Dancing Endurance of the Native 
California Women — The Author takes a Whirl in the Waltz — Surprising 
Feats of Horsemanship — Upsetting a Bull — Concerning the Double 
Marriage of Don Jose Martinez — He proves a True Philanthrophist — Dies, 
and has an Immense Funeral. 

Occasionally the Indians who had been at the 
Missions, and had become well informed in regard to 
the surrounding neighborhood and the different ranches 
in the vicinity, would desert the Missions, retreat to 
their old haunts and join the uncivilized Indians. At 
times they would come back with some of the wild 
Indians to the farms, for the purpose of raiding upon 
them, and capturing the domesticated horses. They 
would come quietly in the night, and carry oft one or 
two caponeras of horses, sometimes as many as five or 
six, and drive them back to the Indian country for their 
own use. In the morning a ranchero would discover 
that he was without horses for the use of the ranch. 
He would then borrow some horses from his neighbor, 
and ten or twelve men would collect together and go 
in pursuit of the raiders. They were nearly always 
successful in overtaking the thieves and recovering 

6 



82 INDIANS RAID THE RANCHOS. 

their horses, though oftentimes not without a fierce 
fight with the Indians, who were armed with bows and 
arrows, and the CaHfornians with horse carbines. 
At these combats the Indians frequently lost some of 
their number, and often as many as eight or ten were 
killed. The CaHfornians were sometimes wounded and 
occasionally killed. Once in a while, but very seldom, 
the Indians were successful in eluding pursuit, and got 
safely away with the horses, beyond recovery. In the 
early part of '39, nearly all the saddle horses belonging 
to captain Ygnacio Martinez, at the rancho Pinole, 
were thus carried off by the Indians, and his son Don 
Jose Martinez, (whose niece I afterward married), with 
eight or ten of his neighbors, went in pursuit of them, 
and though they succeeded in recovering the animals, 
they lost one of their number, Felipe Briones, who was 
killed by an arrow. The fight on that occasion was 
exceedingly severe, and the Indians became so incensed, 
and their numbers increased so much, that the little 
party deemed it too hazardous to continue the fight, 
and retreated, taking with them the recovered horses, 
but were compelled to leave the body of Briones on the 
field. Two days afterward the party went back and 
recovered it, but found it terribly mutilated. Some 
eight or ten of the Indians were killed by the CaHfor- 
nians in that fight. 

Juan Prado Mesa vvas the comandante of the 
Presidio at Yerba Buena, and frequently left his post to 
go in campaigns against the Indians with part of his 



INDIAN ARROW WOUNDS. S ;^ 

command. He was always considered a successful Ind- 
ian fighter. He was a brave and good man. On one 
occasion he was wounded with an arrow, which ulti- 
matelv carried him to his q;rave. He was blessed with 
a large family. I became very well acquainted with 
him, and he frequently furnished me with fine saddle 
horses and a vaquero to make my business circuit around 
the bay. He was under the immediate command of 
General Vallejo, with whom he was intimate, and some- 
times he confided to me secret movements of the 
government. 

o 

The Californians were early risers. The ranchero 
would frequently receive a cup of coffee or chocolate in 
bed, from the hands of a servant, and on getting up 
immediately order one of the vaqueros to bring him a 
certain horse which he indicated, every horse in a ca- 
ponera having a name, which was generally bestowed 
on account of some peculiarity of the animal. He then 
mounted and rode off about the rancho, attended by a 
vaquero, coming back to breakfast between eight and 
nine o'clock. 

This breakfast was a solid meal, consisting of came 
asada (meat broiled on a spit), beefsteak with rich gravy 
or with onions, eggs, beans, tortillas, sometimes bread 
and coffee, the latter often made of peas. After break- 
fast the ranchero would call for his horse again, usually 
selecting a different one, not because the first was 
fatigued, but as a matter of fancy or pride, and ride off 
again around the farm or to visit the neighbors. He 



84 PICTURESQUE DRESS OF RANCHEROS. 

was gone till tweh^e or one o'clock, when he returned 
for dinner, which was similar to breakfast, after which 
he again departed, returning about dusk in the evening 
for supper, this being mainly a repetition of the two for- 
mer meals. , 
Although there was so little variety in their food 
from one day to another, everything was cooked so well 
and so neatly and made so inviting, the matron of the 
house giving her personal attention to everything, that 
the meals were always relished. 

When the rancheros thus rode about, during the 
leisure season, which was between the marking time 
and the viatanza or killing time, and from the end of the 
matanza to the spring time again, the more wealthy of 
them were generally dressed in a good deal of style, 
with short breeches extending to the knee, ornamented 
with gold or silver lace at the bottom, with botas 
(leggings) below^ made of fine soft deer skin, well 
tanned and finished, richly colored, and stamped with 
beautiful devices {these articles having been imported 
from Mexico, where they were manufactured), and 
tied at the knee with a silk cord, two or three times 
wound around the leg, with heavy gold or silver tas- 
sels hanging below the knee. They wore long vests, 
with filagree buttons of gold or silver, while those 
of more ordinary means had them of brass. They wore 
no long coats, but a kind of jacket of good length, most 
generally of dark blue cloth, also adorned with filagree 
buttons. Over that was the long serape or poncho. 



THE CALIFORNIA SADDLE. S^ 

made in Mexico and imported from there, costing from 
$20 to $100. according to the quaHty of the cloth and 
the richness of the ornamentation. The serape and 
the poncJio were made in the same way as to size and 
cut of the garments, but the former was of a coarser 
texture than the latter, and of a variety of colors and 
patterns, while the poncJio was of dark blue or black 
cloth, of finer quality, generally broadcloth. The serape 
was always plain, while xh^ pone ho was heavily trimmed 
with ofold or silver frinofe around the edcres, and a little 
below the collars around the shoulders. They wore 
hats imported from Mexico and Peru, generally stiff, 
the finer quality of softer material —<^£Y//;7^, a kind of 
beaver skin obtained in those countries. Their saddles 
were silver-mounted, embroidered with silver or gold, 
the bridle heavily mounted with silver, and the reins 
made of the most select hair of the horse's mane, and at 
a distance of every foot or so there was a link of silver 
connecting the different parts together. The tree of 
the saddle was similar to that now in use by the Span- 
iards, and covered with the mochiia, which was of 
leather. It extended beyond the saddle to the shoulder 
of the horse in front and back to the fiank, and down- 
wards on either side, half way between the rider's knee 
and foot. This was plainly made, sometimes stamped 
with ornamental figures on the side and sometimes 
without stamping. Over this was the coraza, a leather 
covering of finer texture, a little larger and extending 
beyond the mochila all around, so as to completely cover 



86 A horseman's trappings. 

it. It was elaborately stamped with handsome orna- 
mental devices. Behind the saddle, and attached there- 
to, was the anquera, of leather, of half-moon shape, cov- 
ering the top of the hindquarters of the horse, but not 
reaching to the tail ; which was also elaborately stamped 
with figures and lined with sheep skin, the wool side 
next to the horse. This was an ornament, and also a 
convenience in case the rider chose to take a person be- 
hind him on the horse. Frequently some gallant young 
man would take a lady on the horse with him, putting 
her in the saddle in front and himself riding on the an- 
quera behind. The stirrups were cut out of a solid 
block of wood, about two and a half inches in thick- 
ness. They were very large and heavy. The strap was 
passed through a little hole near the top. The tapadera 
was made of two circular pieces of very stout leather, 
about twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, the outer one 
a little smaller than the inner one, fastened together 
with strips of deer skin culled ^-amiisa, the saddle strap 
passing through two holes near the top to attach it to 
the stirrup ; so that when the foot was placed in the 
stirrup the tapadera was in front, concealed it, and pro- 
tected the foot of the rider froni the brush and bram- 
bles in going through the woods. 

This was the saddle for everyday use of the ranch- 
eros and vaqueros, that of the former being somewhat 
nicer and better finished. The reins for everyday use 
were made of deer or calfskin or other soft leather, 
cut in thin strips and nicely braided and twisted to- 



87 

gether, and at the end of the reins was attached an 
extra piece of the same with a ring, which was used as 
a whip. Their spurs were inlaid with gold and silver, 
and the straps of the spurs worked with silver and gold 
thread. 

When thus mounted and fully equipped, these men 
presented a magnificent appearance, especially on the 
feast days of the Saints, which were celebrated at the 
Missions. Then they were arrayed in their finest and 
most costly habiliments, and their horses in their gay- 
est and most expensive trappings. They were usually 
large, well developed men, and presented an imposing 
aspect. The outfit of a ranchero and his horse, thus 
equipped, I have known to cost several thousand dollars. 

The gentleman who carried a lady in this way, 
before him on a horse, was considered as occupying 
a post of honor, and it was customary when a bride 
was to be married in church, which was usual in 
those days, for a relative to take her before him in 
this fashion on his horse to the church where the cere- 
mony was to be performed. This service, which in- 
volved the greatest responsibility and trust on the part 
of the gentleman, was discharged by him in the most 
gallant and polite manner possible. 

On the occasion of my marriage, in 1847, the bride 
was taken in this way to the church by her uncle, Don 
Jose Martinez. On these occasions the horse was 
adorned in the most sumptuous manner, the anquera 
and coraza being beatitifully worked with ornamental 



88 A CONTENTED PEOPLE. 

devices in gold and silver thread. The bride rode on 
her own saddle, sometimes by herself, which was made 
like the gentleman's, but a little smaller, and without 
stirrups, in place of which a piece of silk — red, blue or 
green — perhaps a yard wide and two or three yards 
long, joined at the two ends, was gracefully hung over 
the saddle, puffed like a bunch of flowers at the fasten- 
ing, and hung down at one side of the horse in a loop, 
in which the lady lightly rested her foot. 

The ladies were domestic and exceeciingly indus- 
trious, although the wealthier class had plenty of Indian 
servants. They were skillful with their needles, making 
the garments for their families, which were generally 
numerous. The women were proficient in sewing. 
They also did a good deal of nicer needlework of fancy 
kinds — embroidery, etc. — in which they excelled, all for 
family use. Their domestic occupations took up most 
of their time. 

Both men and women preserved their hair in all its 
fullness and color, and it was rare to see a gray- headed 
person. A man fifty years of age, even, had not a sin- 
gle gray hair in his head or beard, and I don't remem- 
ber ever seeing, either among the vaqueros or the 
rancheros, or among the women, a single bald-headed 
person. I frequently asked them what was the cause 
of this remarkably good preservation of their hair, and 
they would shrug their shoulders, and say they supposed 
it was on account of their quiet way of living and free- 
dom from worry and anxiety. 



SOCIAL CONDITIONS. 89 

The native Californians were about the happiest 
and most contented people I ever saw, as also were the 
early foreigners who settled among them and intermar- 
ried with them, adopted their habits and customs, and 
became, as it were, a part of themselves. 

Among the Californians there was more or less 
caste, and the wealthier families were somewhat aristo- 
cratic and did not associate freely with the humbler 
classes ; in towns the wealthy families were decid- 
edly proud and select, the wives and daughters espec- 
ially. These people were naturally, whether rich or 
poor, of a proud nature, and though always exceedingly 
polite, courteous and friendly, they were possessed ot a 
native dignity, an inborn aristocracy, which was appa- 
rent in their bearing, walk, and general demeanor. 
They were descended from the best families of Spain, 
and never seemed to forget their origin, even if their 
outward surroundings did not correspond to their in- 
ward feeling. Of course among the wealthier classes 
this pride was more manifest than among the poorer. 

In my long intercourse with these people, extend- 
ing over many years, I never knew an instance of in- 
civility of any kind. They were always ready to reply 
to a question, and answered in the politest manner, even 
the humblest of them ; and in passing along the road, the 
poorest vaquero would salute you politely. If you wanted 
any little favor of him, like delivering a message to 
another rancho, or anything of that sort, he was ready 
to oblige, and did it with an air of courtesy and griice 



90 DANCING A GREAT ENJOYMENT. 

and freedom of manner that were very pleasing. They 
showed everywhere and always this spirit of accommoda- 
tion, both men and women. The latter, though reserved 
and dignified, always answered politely and sweetly, and 
generally bestowed upon you a smile, which, coming 
from a handsome face, was charming in the extreme. 
This kindness of manner was no affectation, but gen- 
uine goodness, inward as well as outward, and com- 
manded one's admiration and respect. 

I was astonished at the endurance of the Califor- 
nia women in holding out, night after night, in dancing, 
of which they never seemed to weary, but kept on with 
an appearance of freshness and elasticity that was as 
charming as surprising. Their actions, movements and 
bearing were as full of life and animation after several 
nights of dancing as at the beginning, while the men, 
on the other hand, became wearied, showing that their 
powers of endurance were not equal to those of the 
ladies. I have frequently heard the latter ridiculing 
the gentlemen for not holding out unfatigued to the 
end of a festival of this kind. 

The rancheros and their household generally re- 
tired early, about eight o'clock, unless a valecito casero 
(little home-party) was on hand, when this lasted till 
twelve or one. They v/ere fond of these gatherings, 
and almost every family having some musician of its 
own, music and dancing were indulged in, and a very 
pleasant time enjoyed. I have attended many of them 
and always was agreeably entertained. These parties 



A CELEBRATED WEDDING PARTY. 9 1 

were usually impromptu, without formality, and were 
often held for the entertairmient of a guest who might 
be stopping at the house. The balls or larger parties 
were of more importance, and usually occurred in the 
towns. On the occasion of the marriage of a son or 
daughter of a ranchero they took place on the rancho, 
the marriage being celebrated amid great festivities, 
lasting several days. 

Fandango was a term for a dance or entertainment 
among the lower classes, where neighbors and others 
were invited in, and engaged themselves without any 
great degree of formality. The entertainments ot the 
wealthy and aristocratic class were more exclusive in 
character; invitations were more carefully given, more 
formality observed, and of course, more elegance and 
refinement prevailed. An entertainment of this char- 
acter was known as a baile. 

In November, 1838, I was a guest at the wedding 
party given at the marriage of Don Jose Martinez to the 
daughter of Don Ygnacio Peralta, which lasted about a 
week, dancing being kept up all the night with a com- 
pany of at least one hundred men and wonien from the 
adjoining ranchos, about three hours after daylight 
being given to sleep, after which picnics in the woods 
were held during the forenoon, and the afternoon was 
devoted to bull fighting. This programme was contin- 
ued for a week, when I myself had become so exhausted 
for want of regular sleep that I was glad to escape. ihe 
bride and bridegroom were not given any seclusion until 
the third night. 



92 A CELEBRATED WEDDING PARTY. 

On this occasion Dona Rafaela Martinez, wife of 
Dr. Tennent, and sister of the bridegroom, a young 
woman full of life and vivacity, very attractive and 
graceful in manner, seized upon me and led me on to 
the floor with the waltzers. I was ignorant of waltzing 
up to that moment. She began moving round the 
room with me in the waltz, and in some unaccountable 
manner, perhaps owing to her magnetism, I soon found 
myself going through the figure with ease. After that 
I had no difficulty in keeping my place with the other 
waltzers, and was reckoned as one of them. I waltzed 
with my fascinating partner a good portion of the night. 

During this festivity, Don Jose Martinez, who was 
a wonderful horseman, performed some feats which aston- 
ished me. For instance, while ridins: at the gfreatest 
speed, he leaned over his saddle to one side, as he swept 
along, and picked up from the ground a small coin, which 
had been put there to try his skill, and then went on 
without slackening his speed. 

Some years after that I was visiting him, and while 
we were out taking a ride over his rancho, we came to 
an exceedingly steep hill, almost perpendicular; at the 
top was a bull quietly feeding. He looked up and 
said, " Do you see that bull?" " Yes," said I. " Now," 
said he, " we will have some fun. I am going up there 
to drive him down and lasso him on the way." It 
seemed impossible owing to the steepness of the 
declivity. Nevertheless, he did it, rode up to the top, 
started the bull down at full speed, and actually lassoed 



DON JOSE MARTINEZ AND FA^[ILV. 93 

the animal on the way, threw him down, and the bull 
at once commenced rolling down the steep side of the 
hill, over and over, until he reached the bottom, Jose 
following on his horse and slackening up the riata as he 
went along. He was a graceful rider. 

After many years of happiness with his excellent 
wife, during which they were blessed with six or eight 
children, Don Jose Martinez became a widower. A few 
years after this he married an English lady, a sister of 
Dr. Samuel J. Tennent, who was then living at Pinole 
ranch, and who married a sister of Don Jose Martinez. 
Dr. Tennent still lives on a portion of the ranch in- 
herited by his wife. This marriage of Don Jose to a 
lady outside of his own countrywomen was rather an 
unusual occurrence among the Californians. The mar- 
riage proved a happy one, and half a dozen children 
resulted therefrom. This lady is now living in San 
Francisco. 

Don Jose Martinez had the largest kind of a heart, 
and if anyone called at his house who was in need of a 
horse, he was never refused, and the people of the sur- 
rounding country were constantly in receipt of favors at 
his hands. If one wanted a bullock, and had not the 
means to pay for it, he would send out a vaquero to lasso 
one antl bring it in and tie it to a cabestro (a steer broken 
for that purpose), so that the man could take it home, and 
told him he might pay for it when convenient, or it not 
convenient, it was no matter. So with a horse which 
he might furnish, it didn't matter whether the animal 



94 DEATH OF DON JOSE MARTINEZ. 

was returned or not. This generosity was continual 
and seemed to have no Hmit. At his death, which 
occurred in 1864, his funeral was attended by a vast 
concourse of people from all the surrounding country, 
who came in wagons, buggies and carriages to the 
number of several hundred vehicles, such was the high 
appreciation in which he was held by the community. 
I never saw such respect paid to the memory of any 
other person. If true generosity and genuine philan- 
thropy entitle a man to a place in the kingdom of 
Heaven, I am sure that Don Jose Martinez is received 
there as one of the chief ouests. 



CHAPTER XV. 

Horse Racing as an Amusement — Uull Fighting — I.assoeing Bears by the Whole- 
sale — A Night of Horror to the Author — ^Don \'icente exhibits his skill in 
Throwing Cattle^Gambling not a Vice with the Xative Californians — 
Their Promptitude in Business Transactions — Pride Supported their 
Honesty. 

Besides indulgence in music and dancing, the men 
found their recreation, as they did their occupation, 
chiefly on horseback. 

Horse racing was one of their favorite amuse- 
ments, which they occasionally enjoyed ; especialh' on 
the Saints' feast days, which were general holidays. 
The vaqueros were then relieved from duty, wore 
their best clothes, and were allowed to mount the best 
horses and to have their sport. These races were 
usually from two to four hundred yards and partici- 
pated in by only two horses at a time. Bets were made 
in cattle and horses, and large numbers of animals were 
lost and won on these occasions ; at times one hundred 
up to several hundred head of cattle were bet on the 
result of a single short race. They generally put up 
their baquillas, (heifers.) They had no money to wager, 
but plenty of cattle. Sometimes horses were also bet, 
but not often. There was on one occasion a famous 
race at Los Angeles of nine miles, between the horses 
of two wealthy rancheros, and an immense amount 
of property changed hands on the result of the race, 
cattle and horses, mostly the former. This race at- 



96 DON JOSE RAMON CARILLO. 

tracted quite a large crowd of people, and was 
considered a great affair for that day, Don Jose 
Ramon Carillo, of the Santa Rosa ranch, was ex- 
tremely fond of horses, a very expert and accom- 
plished horseman himself, and a brave and good 
fellow. On his rancho he had a number of fine capo- 
neras, I think as many as ten or twelve, all of the 
best horses. In 1844 I bought a fine horse of him 
for which I paid $50, which at that day was a large 
price ; he was a splendid animal, a dark yellow, darker 
than buckskin. I bought another, equally as good, a 
dapple gray, for $20, all he asked for him. Either of 
them to-day would be worth $200. Don Jose was pas- 
sionately fond of bear-hunting, and talked of this sport 
and of his love of horses with the o-reatest enthusiasm, 
and never seemed to be at ease unless he was on a 
horse. On several occasions when I was visiting him 
in the summer season, when the bears were plenty, he 
was always engaged in hunting them, and tried to per- 
suade me to join him in the sport, urging me to become 
a bear-hunter, saying he would teach me to lasso bears 
and make me as good as himself in that line. But my 
experience with bears (as related a few pages further 
on) had satisfied me, and I always declined absolutely 
to become a participant. In 1844 Don Jose Ramon 
ran a race with the first horse he had sold me, at the 
Mission Dolores, against a horse owned by Francisco 
Sanchez, named Palomino, and was just barely beaten, 
the distance being 300 yards. Thereupon, William 



HORSE RACING IN 1 844. 97 

Rae, of the Hudson's Bay Company's post, put up a 
mouse-colored horse named Grullo for a race of 600 
yards aq-ainst mine, and the bets were doubled, and 
Don Jose Ramon, with my horse, won by a long dis- 
tance. He was much pleased with his success, and Rae 
was much chagrined with the failure of his horse. At 
this occurrence, James Alexander Forbes, then and for 
several years previous British vice-consul, was the 
judge of the race. 

The bull-fighting was usually held on one of the 
Saint's days. The bull was turned into an enclosure, 
and the horsemen would come in, mounted on their 
best animals, and fight the bull for the entertainment of 
the spectators, killing him finally. Sometimes a bear 
and bull fight would take place, another amusement 
they had at the killing season at the matanza spot. 
When cattle were slaughtered, bears came to the place 
at night to feast on the meat that was left after the 
hides and tallow were taken. The bears comino-, the 
rancheros, with vaqueros, would go there for the 
purpose of lassoeing them. This was one of their 
greatest sports ; highly exciting and dangerous, but the 
bear always got the worst of it. One would lasso a 
bear by the neck, and another lasso the same beast by 
the hindfoot, and then pulling in different directions the 
poor bear was soon strained and strangled to death. 
Sometimes half a dozen or more would be taken in a 
single night in this way. 

My wife's father once told me that in one night he, 
with ten soldiers from the Preside of San Francisco, in 

7 



98 FORTY BEARS. 

the woods at a place near San PVancisquito, one of the 
stock ranchos of the Mission of Santa Clara containinci^ 
many thousand cattle and horses — about where Moun- 
tain View is now, on the Southern Pacific Railroad — 
lassoed and killed forty bears in one night. They had 
a relay of horses to aid them in their work, and the 
soldiers having originally been vaqueros were quite at 
home in the sport. It was in the killing season, and 
the bears, smelling the meat, had come down from the 
mountain to partake of it. My father-in-law said this 
was the most exciting event of his life, and that they 
were so interested in dispatching the bears they forgot 
all danger. The animals were lassoed by the throat 
and also by the hind leg, a horseman at each end, and the 
two pulling in opposite directions till the poor beast suc- 
cumbed. The fun was kept up until about daylight, and 
when they got through they w-ere completely exhausted, 
and then discovered how much work they had done. 

That region of country was largely infested with 
bears and many hundreds were in the mountains back, 
and that place was especially noted for bear-hunting by 
Californians. 

At one time I was encamped at the embarcadero 
of Temescal, a place betw^een where the Oakland long 
wharf and Berkeley are now, in order to receive hides 
and tallow from the cattle that were slaughtered not far 
away, which articles I was collecting for my employer, 
Nathan Spear, I was there for several days with one 
man, the boats meantime taking down loads of the 
hides and tallow to Yerba Buena and returning empty. 



BEARS SNIFFING AROUND A TENT. 99 

One night I sent my man up to Don Vicente Peralta's 
house, of an errand, and remained in my tent alone all 
night, to my great peril, as I soon discov^ered. 

The niatanza ground was about a mile from my 
tent, and Peralta and his vaqueros came down in the 
night to lasso the bears for sport. Some of them got 
away from their enemies and made for my tent, prob- 
ably being attracted to it as a strange object looming up 
white in the darkness ; with the curiosity which such 
animals are known to possess, they proceeded to inves- 
tigate it. I sat in the tent and heard these animals cir- 
cling round and round outside for sev^eral hours, going 
off at times and returning. I was in constant fear that 
they might push their noses under the canvas, work 
themselves into the tent and devour me, and had thev 
not been full from feasting on the matanza meat I should 
probably have fallen a victim to their hunger. 

As I sat there quietly and listened to their deep 
breathing and movements outside, I was filled with fear 
and anxiety, and it may easily be imagined how much I 
was relieved when finally the beasts went off for good 
and left me alone. I attribute my prematurely gray 
hairs to the alarm I felt on that occasion. 

On giving Don Vicente Peralta a narrative of my 
narrow escape from being devoured by the bears which 
he and his vaqueros had stampeded to my tent, he 
laughed heartily, but became serious when he realized 
the gravity of my situation, and remarked that there 
were not enough men at the place that night to lasso all 
the bears, and three of them had escaped, as he sup- 



lOO CRITICAL EXPERIENCE. 

posed to the mountains. He said they were not hun- 
gry, having made a hearty supper from the slaughtered 
cattle, but he thought it was best to be on the safe side; 
that they were not to be trusted at any time, and a youth 
of my fine appearance might be tempting to them. 

After this occurrence whenever I had occasion to 
stop over night there, he would send a vaquero with a 
horse, and kind messages from himself and wife to be 
their guest for the night, which invitations I gladly ac- 
cepted. He asked me once or twice to accompany him 
on his bear-hunting expeditions, but I always declined, 
preferring the company of his handsome wife for the 
evening to the possible danger of being devoured by 
the osos, taking warning from my past critical expe- 
rience. 

Don Vicente was about six feet tall, finely propor- 
tioned, straight as an arrow, weighing about 225 pounds, 
hospitable, kind, and full of native dignity. His sur- 
roundings were in keeping with his appearance, man- 
ners and tastes. 

I have ridden in company with him going to the 
Feast of San Jose, when he was attired in a costly suit 
trimmed with gold and silver lace, sitting with ease and 
grace on his horse, which was equally well equipped, 
followed by two mounted and well-dressed rnosos twenty 
feet in the rear, and his wife about two or three hun- 
dred yards distant with her splendidly mounted caval- 
cade, the whole forming a picture worthy of admiration. 

On one occasion in 1840 I stopped at his house 
during one of my trading expeditions, remaining over 



EXHILARATION OF THE CHASE. IQI 

night. In the morning, when about ready to depart, 
he said to me, " ISFo sc apiire." (Don't be in a hurry.) 
" Let's take a ride out this beautiful April morning. 
You see how handsome the hills are ; it is the pleasant- 
est part of the year. Just now the cattle and horses 
are beginning to change their coats, and everything is 
fresh and new. Let's take a ride and enjoy the day." 

Don Vicente being one of our best customers, with 
whom I was anxious to keep on good terms, I accepted 
the invitation, being also pleased to enjoy the day as 
he proposed. He mounted me on a splendid horse 
and taking another himself, we went along enjoying 
the freshness and beauty of everything about us ex- 
ceedingly. Presently Don Vicente said, " We will now 
have a little fun and I want you to assist me. You see 
among those cattle there a three-year-old cow. I select 
her because she is the fleetest. Your horse is well 
trained and will follow the movements of the game. 
You must take care that he does not unsaddle you by 
his quick movements. Now let us go for her ! " 

We let the horses out and they immediately rushed 
away, and in a few moments we lapped the cow, one 
on either side. He leaned over and cauofht the creature 
by the tail, and instantly she was turned over and over 
toward me, and my horse, at the right moment, leaped 
to one side to allow room for the animal's movements. 
It was very exciting, and 1 shall never forget the ex- 
hilaration of the chase and the leap made by the horse 
to get out of her way when the creature was thrown. 



I02 VERBAL PROMISES BINDING. 

The native Californians were not naturally gam- 
blers. I have seen some of the lower classes gamble 
for small sums with cards, but have never known the 
wealthy rancheros, or the higher class in towns, to in- 
dulge in gambling, except on special occasions, like feast 
days of the Saints or at a horse-race. 

The merchants sold to the rancheros and other 
Californians whatever goods they wanted, to any rea- 
sonable amount, and gave them credit from one killing 
season to another. I have never known of a single 
instance in which a note or other written obligation was 
required of them. At the time of purchasing they 
were furnished with bills of the goods, which were 
charged in the account books, and in all my intercourse 
and experience in trade with them, extending over 
many years, I never knew a case of dishonesty on 
their part. They always kept their business engage- 
ments, paid their bills promptly at the proper time in 
hides and tallow, which were the currency of the coun- 
try, and sometimes, though seldom, in money. They 
regarded their verbal promise as binding and sacred, 
relied upon their honor, and were always faithful. This 
may be said of all their relations with others; they 
were faithful in their promises and engagements of every 
kind. They were too proud to condescend to do any- 
thing mean or disgraceful, This honesty and inteo-rity 
were eminently characteristic of these earlv Califor- 
nians. As much cannot be saitl of some of their de- 
scendants, who havfi become demoralized, and are not 
like their ancestors in this rei^ard. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

Rank of the Mexican Civil Officers and their I'owers-Military Officers-Their 
Duties-The Junta Departmental-Land Grants, Why and How Bestowed 
-Officers appointed for San Francisco-How Justice was Admin.stered- 
The C.overnor's Powers-The Alcaldes were Capable Qfficers-Their In- 
signia of Office-Governor Alvarado-He is held in Esteem by the Foreign 
Residents-General Castro as a Military Man-General Vallejo-His Cour- 
tesy to Visitors and Strangers-A Sleep on a Cold Night without Blankets- 
General Vallejo skilled as a Horseman, and expert with the Lasso -Allusion 
to Don Pablo de la Guerra, Don Jose Antonio Carrillo, Mr. Alfred Robin- 
son and Don Manuel Jimeno -Dona Augusta Jimeno, a High-sp.nted and 
Patriotic Lady-Dona Ramona Wilson, a Lady of great HospitalUy. 

At the head of the government of the department 
of Cahfornia was, of course, the governor, who resided 
at Monterey, then the seat of government. The next 
officer hi rank was the prefect, whose position was 
somewhat similar in rank to that of Heutenant-governor 
at the present day, only he was much more of an exec- 
utive officer. He resided at Monterey also. 1 hrough 
him all orders emanating from the governor were issued 
toofficers of lower rank^the sub-prefects-who pre- 
sided over districts of considerable extent ; tor instance, 
that in the vicinity of Verba Buena comprised ban V ran- 
Cisco and Contra Costa, the hitter being the name of all 
the country on the east side of the bay. 

The alcaldes presided over the towns, and were 
supervised by the sub-prefects. There was also a sec- 
retary of state at Monterey, who was the in.mediate 
counselor of the governor, generally a man ot educa- 



I04 MEXICAN CIVIL OFFICERS. 

tion and of more than ordinary ability. The com- 
mander-in-chief of the forces of the department also 
usually resided at Monterey, although in the case of 
General Vallejo there was an exception, he residing at 
Sonoma by permission of the supreme government of 
Mexico. 

The governor's cabinet consisted of the prefect, the 
secretary of state and the commander-in-chief. The 
oovernment was both civil and militarv in character. 
The office of the prefect was of great importance. The 
whole civil administration of affairs went through his 
hands. His orders were issued to the various sub-pre- 
fects of the department, and they in turn issued them 
to the alcaldes. In matters of doubt concerning the 
titles to pueblo lands and other questions which the 
alcaldes were called to pass upon, the sub-prefects were 
often consulted, and questions of importance referred 
from the alcaldes to the prefect, through the sub-pre- 
fects, and by him laid before the governor and cabinet 
for final decisions. 

There was also the junta departmental, compris- 
ing seven members, which assembled at the seat of gov- 
ernment once a year. The members were elected from 
different sections of the department, and remained in ses- 
sion each year from one to three months, according to the 
business to be disposed of. The oldest of their num- 
ber was made chairman or president of this assembly, 
and held his office during its existence. The governor 
of the department could idso preside over the assembly. 



MILITARY OFFICERS I\ CALIFORNIA. IO5 

This bcdy was largely occupied in passing upon 
titles to lands which had been conveyed by the gov- 
ernor to different persons, these grants being certified 
by the secretary of state. The grants were generally 
bestowed as a reward for services rendered the country 
in a military capacity, though there were some excep- 
tions where grants were given to other persons at the 
option of the governor. He had full power to issue 
these grants, subject to approval or disapproval by the 
assembly. If they were approved, the title was consid- 
ered perfect ; if not approved, the title was considered 
inchoate, subject to further consideration and action by 
the junta. 

In case of the death of the governor, or other va- 
cancy of his office the president of the junta depart- 
mental became governor pro teni. until a new appoint- 
ment was made by the supreme authority in Mexico. 
I recollect of only one instance where the president of 
the assembly became governor p7'0 Ion., and that was 
on the occasion of the revolution against Governor 
Micheltorena, when he was displaced, and Don Pio Pico 
who was then president of the junta departmental, was 
made provisional governor. 

In 1834 or '35 an ayuntamiento, or town council, 
was formed for San Francisco, consisting of one alcalde, 
two regidores and a sindico, which body resided first at 
the Presidio; afterwards at the Mission. 

There were no regularly established courts in the 
department at that time. The alcalde exercised the 



I06 JURISDICTION OF CIVIL OFFICERS. 

office of judge, jury, lawyers and all, inasmuch as no 
lawyers were employed ; in fact there were none in the 
department. The plaintiff and defendant simply ap- 
peared before the alcalde, and stated their case on either 
side, produced their witnesses, if they had any, and 
the alcalde decided the case speedily ; generally on 
the spot, without delay. I believ^e that more sub 

stantial justice was done in this way than in the courts 
ot the present day, with all their elaborate machinery 
and prolonged course of proceedings. The alcalde 
decided all cases of minor importance, and the penalty 
for lesser crimes was fine or imprisonment. Cases of 
more magnitude, like those of murder and other high 
crimes, were brought before the gov^ernor and cabine 
at Monterey, and their decision in the matter was final. 
The governor had full power to condemn or discharge 
a prisoner, or to pardon him after sentence. The fate 
of the prisoner rested entirely in his hands. There was 
no hanging in those days, but when a prisoner was con- 
victed of a capital offense and condemned to death he 
was shot by the military. Criminals, such as burglars, 
horse thieves, cattle thieves, perpetrators of assaults, 
were arrested by the sindico, and turned over to 
the military commander of the post, if within con- 
venient distance, otherwise to an alcalde's posse, and 
imprisoned in the calaboose, and guarded by citizens 
specially appointed by the alcalde for the occasion 
until the time for examination or trial. These alcades 
as a class were men of good, strong common sense, and 



JUAN 13. ALVARADO. 10/ 

many of them had a fair education. As a rule they 
were honest in their administration of justice and 
sought to give every man his dues. I had occasion 
to appear before them frequently in my business trans- 
actions, with reference to hides that were not branded 
according to law, and other matters. I always found 
them ready upon a proper representation of the 
case to do what was just to all concerned. The alcalde 
was an important personage in the town. His insignia 
of office consisted of a cane of light colored wood, 
handsomely finished, and ornamented at the top with 
silver or gold. Below the knob were holes in the cane, 
through which was drawn black silk cord, attached to 
tassels of the same material, hanging below. The al- 
calde carried this staff on all occasions, and especially 
when about to perform any official act, such as ordering 
an arrest. Great respect and deference were paid 
to the cane and its bearer by the people at large. He 
was treated with great courtesy and politeness and 
looked up to as a person of undisputed authority. The 
administration of the governor and his cabinet, and of 
the various sub-prefects, was just and satisfactory to the 
people, and I have never known any instance to the 
contrary. 

Juan B. Alvarado, who was governor of California 
when I came to this coast, was a native Californian. 
His mother was a sister of General Vallejo. He was 
educated at Monterey by an English iiistructtjr, W. E. 
P. Hartnell. When (juite a young man, in: was clerk 



io8 



JUAN B, ALVARADO. 



to Nathan Spear, then a merchant at Monterey. I 
have frequently heard Spear speak in terms of the 
warmest admiration of his honesty and great abihty. 
Spear himself was well read and intelligent, and I have 
heard him say that he took such an interest in young 
Alvarado, as he called him, that he was in the habit of 
imparting to him when in his employ a good deal of in- 
formation about other countries and governments. Al- 
varado, who had a thirst for knowledge, was an eage^* 
listener, and received it gratefully ; for a considerable 
portion of his acquirements he was indebted to Spear. 
In his early life he was more or less connected with the 
governing officials at Monterey, and then showed his 
talent in that direction. 

It was in 1836 or ' 2i7> I think, that Alvarado wrote 
a letter to President Bustamente, then at the head of 
the Republic of Mexico, about some governmental 
matters connected with the department of California, 
in which his ability was recognized by the president ; 
for, shortly after this, he appointed Alvarado governor 
of the department, which position he held until he was 
superceded by Micheltorena in the latter part of '42. 
In his administration of affairs he showed talent, and 
was friendly to all foreigners. Spear and other well- 
informed Americans often spoke highly of Alvarado's 
military tact. Although not educated with a view to 
military life at all, he seemed to have a natural apti- 
tude for military tactics and remarkable ability for plan- 
ning military movements. 



CASTRO AND VALLKJO. IO9 

Jose Castro, the second in command in the army, 
was an educated miHtary man. Living at the head- 
quarters of the government, he frequently consulted Al- 
varado on important military matters, and relied largely 
upon his opinions and advice. General Castro was a 
man ot fair military ability, of excellent character, very 
popular, and much liked by his countrymen. 

General Vallejo was a more reserved man than Al- 
varado. He was a native of California and lived con- 
tinuously in Sonoma, with his family, attending- to his 
immense herds of cattle and horses, and did not partic- 
ipate in active movements in the field. He occasionally 
visited Monterey, where his mother and nephew, the 
governor, resided. He was hospitable, and received the 
merchant traders on the coast at his fine mansion at 
Sonoma and entertained them handsomely. He was 
courteous to the higher class of foreigners, but had no 
taste for the companionship of the rougher class, min- 
ers, trappers and other adventurers whom he denomi- 
nated "white Indians." In the month of December, 
1839, Jacob P. Leese, who was a brother-in-law of 
General Vallejo, Thomas Shaw, supercargo of the ship 
" Monsoon," of Boston, and myself, crossed the bay to 
Sonoma Landing in the schooner " Isabel," and ap- 
peared at General Vallejo's house in the evening. We 
were very cordially received, handsomely entertained at 
dinner, and invited to pass the night, which we ilid. On 
retiring we were shown to our several apartments ; 
I found an elegant bed with beautifully trimmed and 



no GENERAL VALLEJO. 

embroidered sheets and coverlid and pillows ; but on 
getting in to it I discovered there were no blankets, an 
oversight of the servant, and as the whole house had 
retired I could not arouse anybody to secure them, but 
lay there shivering and shaking through the night, 
wishing there were a little less elegance and a little 
more comfort. 

I saw General Vallejo in Sonoma many times. His 
selection of horses for his own use was one of the finest 
in the country, comprising a large number of beautiful 
animals, well trained. I have seen him taking his 
morning and evening ride on horseback (there were no 
carriages in Sonoma at that time) and sitting on his 
fine horse in the most natural and graceful manner. 
He was considered skillful in the use of the lasso, and 
also expert in the colliar, or catching the bull by the 
tail and overturning him when going at full speed, as 
before described. This was a favorite amusement 
amongst the rancheros, and any one of them, though 
he might be the possessor of many thousands of cattle 
and horses, who was not fully up to the mark in the 
skillful and daring maneuvers of using the lasso and in 
colliar and other feats of that kind, was looked upon 
as lacking in those accomplishments which were befit- 
ting a genuine Californian. 

General Vallejo received a school education under 
the instruction of W. E. P. Hartnell at Monterey. Being 
naturally fond of study, and appreciating the advan- 
tages of education of a higher order, and having great 



PABLO DE LA GUERRA. I I 1 

ambition for learnino^, he has continued his studious 
habits during his whole Hfe, gathering books here; and 
there whenever opportunity offered, sometimes from 
vessels coming to the coast, and if there were any special 
books he wanted he would send to Mexico, to S[)ain, 
to France, to England, to the United States, or to any 
part of the world to procure them. Having accumu- 
lated large wealth in his younger days he has always 
gratified his tastes in that direction. In visiting him in 
the earlier days I would find him in his library sur- 
rounded by his books, in which he took the greatest 
delight and pride. He illustrates in the best manner 
the oft quoted phrase, " a gentleman and a scholar." 

Don Pablo de la Guerra was a native Californian, 
and a pupil and brother-in-law of Hartnell, the latter 
having married one of the de la Guerra sisters. He was 
a man fond of reading, an accomplished scholar, speak- 
insf his own lancruasfe in the best manner, and also the 
English fluently and correctly. He was in the gov- 
ernment service, and in 1845 became Collector of the 
Port. His father was Don Jose de la Guerra, a native 
of Spain, who always resided at Santa Barbara, and 
who married one of the Carillo family there. The four 
brothers of the lady — Don Carlos, Anastacio, Domingo 
and Jose Antonio Carillo — were each of them at least 
six feet in height, weighing over 200 pounds, and finely 
proportioned. Don Carlos was the leader in the revo- 
lution against Governor Alvarado to displace hini in 
1838. 



112 ALFRED ROBINSON. 

Don Jose Antonio resided at Los Angeles, and was 
considered a leading man of talent in that part of the 
country, being surpassed only by Alvarado in intellect. 
During this revolution he was a most efficient worker 
in the movement to place his brother Don Carlos in the 
position of governor. 

Don Pablo was a member of the first Constitutional 
Convention in '49, and assisted greatly in the formation 
of the constitution. He was several times elected to 
the Senate, (State) representing Santa Barbara and 
San Luis Obispo. He often presided over the Senate 
in the absence of the regular officer, and was frequently 
asked to become a candidate for governor of the State, 
but declined. 

Mr. Alfred Robinson, sometimes known as Don 
Alfredo Robinson, who still lives in San Francisco, 
married a sister of Don Pablo de la Guerra and of Dona 
Augusta Jimeno. 1 never saw the lady, but she must 
have been fine looking, coming, as she did, from a 
handsome family. This wedding is described in 
Dana's " Two Years Before the Mast." 

Don Manuel Jimeno, who was secretary of state 
under Alvarado, was a native of Mexico, and emiorated 
to California when very young. He married one of Don 
Pablo de la Guerra's sisters. Dona Augusta. He was 
considered a man of learning and a statesman. I think 
he held also the position of secretary of state under 
Micheltorena. He was familiar with the laws of Mex- 
ico which were in force in the department of California, 



A PATRIOTIC LADY. I I 3 

and filled the office with credit to himself and the de- 
partment. His wife was an accomplished lady, \ery 
entertaining in her conversation, overflowing with wit 
and vivacity. I have frequently heard her, after the 
change of the government to that of the United States, 
express her utter disapprobation in the most sarcastic 
language ; but she was so intelligent and her manner so 
captivating, that the listener was overcome with ad- 
miration of her brightness and the pungency and ap- 
propriateness of her speech. 

In a patriotic outburst, Sefiora Dona Augusta 
Jimeno exclaimed one day that she would delight to 
have the ears of the officers of the United States 
squadron for a necklace, such was her hatred of the 
new rulers of her country. But, with all this, it was 
well known in Monterey that whenever an officer of 
the army or navy was taken sick Mrs. Jimeno was the 
first to visit the patient and bestow on him the known 
kindness so characteristic of the native California 
ladies, with encouraging words, and delicacies suitable 
to his condition. This would show that she disliked 
them as conquerors of her country, but respected them 
as individuals. Some years after Mrs. Jimeno became 
a widow, she married Dr. Ord of the United States 
army. 

Mariano Pacheco, the brother of the governor, was 
with me for two years as clerk in Yerba Buena, in 1843 
and '44. 

8 



114 DINING IN SANTA BARBARA. 

Doiia Ramona. the mother of Governor Pacheco, 
when I first knew her in 1838, at Santa Barbara, was a 
handsome woman, queenly in her walk and bearing, 
and among her countrywomen, who were noted for their 
beauty, she was one of the most attractive. She is still 
living, and I am told preserves her former fine appear- 
ance. Her first husband. Don Francisco Pacheco, was 
an accomplished musician, playing- the violin with great 
skill and taste. 

After the death of her first husband Mrs. Pacheco 
married Captain John Wilson, an old Scotchman, and 
lived at Santa Barbara. She was kind to all the mer- 
chants who visited that port. In 1842 and '43 I was 
at Santa Barbara as supercargo ot the " Don Quix- 
ote," and often dined with her. Frequently when the 
hour arrived, and I was not there, she would send a 
servant round the town to find me, with the message, 
"'Dona Ramona esta csperaiido a nstcd para la coniida!' 
(Doiia Ramona is waiting dinner for you.) I would 
sometimes tell her not to wait for me, that my business 
might prevent me coming, and I could not be prompt 
at her fine dinner, but she would always send for me. 
Her kindness to me is among my pleasantest recollec- 
tions. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

A I'osl erected at Verba Buena in 1841 by the Hudson's Bay. Company — Rae 
occupies a Portion of the Building — Rae a Genial Man — A Particular (lame 
of Cards — Favorite Games of the People — The Hudson's Bay Store as a 
Place of Resort— A Wrestling Contest— Rae Vanquished— Rae heUl in much 
Respect— Bob Ridley and his Doings — Brandy gets Ilim in the End — Rae 
proves an Unfaithful Husband — Ends his Life by Suicide— A new Agent a 
the Post, who closes out the Business to Melius & Howard. 

The Hudson's Bay Company was a commercial cor- 
poration existing under charter granted by Charles H. in 
1670. During the first half of the present century it had 
posts and stores for trade with Indians and trappers at 
Astoria, Fort Vancouver and other points on the Colum- 
bia. The head agent, residing at Vancouver, was given 
the title of "governor." In 182 1 McLaughlin was ap- 
pointed governor for the company of all the country in 
the Oregon Territory west of the Rocky Mountains. 

In the spring of 1S41 Governor McLaughlin 
(who was a large man) and suite came from the Hud- 
son's Bay Company's post, on the Columbia river, in the 
bark "Cowlitz," to Verba Buena. for the purpose of es- 
tablishing a post of the company at this point. The 
governor was also called Dr. McLaughlin. He was 
talkative and companionable. The four or five gentle- 
men who accompanied him were also large men, of re- 
finement, and appeared to be men of prominence. They 
purchased a portion of a block of land, with a house, 
from Jacob P. Leese, bounded by Montgomery street on 



Il6 ONE OF THE EARLY HOUSES. 

the west, Sacramento on the south, Clay on the north, 
on the east coming near to the water mark of the bay. 
They purchased four fifty varas, being two-thirds of the 
whole block. The house was a laro-e wooden two-story 
building, occupied by Leese and his family. The price 
paid for the property was $4800, half in coin and half in 
ofoods. The " Cowlitz " remained about two weeks at 
Yerba Buena, and then the governor and his party lett 
in her for Monterey, and proceeded thence to their 
post on the Columbia river. The building was not given 
up by Leese until the arrival of William G. Rae, son-in- 
law of Dr. McLaughlin, from the Columbia river post, 
with a large stock of goods in the "Cowlitz." He 
opened the new post in September, 1841, and took 
possession of the property. The goods were sent from 
England to the Hudson's Bay Company's station on the 
Columbia and then transhipped here, the vessel going 
to Monterey to make entry at the Custom House. Rea 
made use of the building for a store ; he kept a large 
miscellaneous assortment of English goods, and the 
company traded in the same way that other merchants 
did on the coast, sendinQ; out their little launches and 
schooners to collect hides and tallow about the bay, and 
to deliver goods, and they did a good business until the 
death of Rae in January, 1845. They had no large ves- 
sels trading up and down the coast. 

Rae was a Scotchman, tall and handsome, and 
much of a gentleman. I became intimately acquainted 
with him, and have played "whist "at his house many 



RECREATIONS IN 1 84 I. II7 

times until daylight. He was fond of this game, a skill- 
ful player, and always selected me for his partner, as he 
considered me a good player also. W^e sometimes bet 
a rial (equivalent to twelve and a half cents) each on 
the result of the game-never more than this sum — 
which was bet in order to make the game more inter- 
estinof. 

One eveninof there were three sets of o-entlemen 
playmg "whist" in Air. Rea's rooms, he and I being part- 
ners as usual. During one of the games I saw by a 
significant look from him that he had a poor hand, and 
that he rather conceded the game to our opponents ; to 
which I assented. As the game proceeded, I had only 
two hearts in my hand, the ace and the king ; I delib- 
erately threw away the king, which seemed to astonish 
him, as I saw by a kind of dry smile on his counte- 
nance. This trick was my partner's already, but as 
I could not follow suit I played the king of hearts, 
and thus enabled my partner to use his cards to ad- 
vantage, and when hearts were played afterward my 
low trum|)s secured other tricks, and the game 
was decided in our favor. This greatly delighted 
Rea, who expressed his unbounded satisfaction, and so 
emphatically that all the playing in the room stopped, 
and his enthusiasm created general hilarity. He said 
to the other gentlemen that this movement of mine in 
the game was one of the best conceived that he ever 
witnessed, and complimented me highly for my skill. 
If he had just made $10,000 by some lucky stroke of 
business he could not have been more delighted. 



Il8 A WRESTLING CONTEST. 

The q^ames of "whist" and "twenty-one" were 
favorite amusements of the people in those days, and 
generally indulged in, there being no public amusements 
of any kind. Rae had with him his wife, the daughter 
of Governor McLaughlin, and two or three interesting 
children. 

The other third of the block containing the Hud- 
son's Bay store was owned by John J. Vioget, a Swiss, 
who lived there, and had a kind of public house, with 
a billiard-room and bar, which at that time was the only 
place of resort for the entertainment of captains, super- 
cargoes, merchants and clerks of the town. He had 
also occasional visitors from the ranchos whenever they 
came to town to make their purchases and transact 
business. Among these visitors was Don Jose Joaquin 
Estudillo, of the San Leandro Rancho, also a large 
man, but not so tall as Rea. 

One day Rae, Estudillo and a number of others 
happened to be at Vioget's house, w-hich was a sort of 
exchange or meeting place for comparing notes on busi- 
ness matters, talking over affairs in general. At the 
same time a little amusement was perhaps indulged in. 
Some were chatting, some smoking, some playing bill- 
iards, and presently Rae challenged Estudillo to a con- 
test at wrestling, to prove who was the best man. The 
challenge was accepted, and they stood up facing each 
other ; on the word being given they came together 
and Rae was immediately thrown, to his great amaze- 
ment. At the second trial he was thrown again, and 



ROBERT RIDLEY. 1 I 9 

this was repeated a tliird, fourth and a fifth time, until 
Rae frankly acknowledged that his opponent was the 
better wTestler, and he himself was fairly beaten. He 
invited us to join him in a glass of wine. 

Rae was much respected. He was liberal to those 
less favored by circumstances than himself, frequently 
giving little presents to persons who came to his store 
of things most needed by them. His table was always 
finely supplied with the best of everything, and he had 
a generous sideboard and entertained a great deal ot 
company. He and Spear were the chief entertainers. 
There being no hotels at that time, the hospitalities of 
the town devolved mostly upon these two gentlemen. 
The captains, supercargoes and other strangers were 
always welcome at Rae's house, and it was a pleasure 
to him to entertain them. He had the true California 
nature and feeling in this respect. 

Rae had a clerk named Robert Ridley, who was a 
regular English cockney, a good-looking fellow. He 
married the daughter of Juana Briones, the first settler 
at North Beach. He was singular and comical, and 
was considered the funny man of the town. Everybody 
knew him, and he was popular and liked by all. He 
knew everyone's business, was the news-carrier and 
gossip of the place, and was at home in every house. 
He imagined he was a lady's man, and at times stirred 
up a little excitement among the feminines. He was a 
great teller of extravagant stories — a regular Mun- 
chausen — and withal was considered the life and tun ot 
the place. 



I20 RAE S DEATH. 

I met him one fine spring morning" between seven 
and eight o'clock. '' Bill," said he, "how many i^o;^- 
don Docks do you suppose I have taken already before 
breakfast this morning?" "About a dozen," I an- 
swered ; " your usual allowance." " I can discount 
that," said he; "I have taken twenty-three!" — and he 
was apparently sober at the time. 

Rae told me the same day that two large decanters 
filled with dark English brandy on the sideboard in his 
dining-room had been emptied, and he accused Bob of 
having drank the contents, which the latter acknowl- 
edged having done, astonishing as it may seem. Like 
most Englishmen, he was not easily affected by this 
habit, and it was for a long time a question whether 
King Brandy should rule or Bob ; but finally his strong 
English constitution yielded to the superior authority 
of the former, and poor Bob died more than twenty 
years ago at the Mission Dolores. 

The business of the Hudson's Bay Company's post 
was quite successful up to January, 1845, when it was 
discovered that Rae was unfaithful to his wife, having 
succumbed to the fascinations of a California lady. Upon 
this becoming public, Rae, who was a sensitive man, was 
so overcome with mortification and disgrace that he shot 
himself. After his death the British vice-consul, James 
Alexander Forbes, took possession of the post, and was 
instructed by the managers of the general post on the 
Columbia river to close out the business of the company 
at Yerba Buena as soon as practicable. This was done 



RETIREMENT OE HUDSON'S BAY COMPAXV. I^I 

in the course of a few months, and the land and house 
sold to Melius & Howard for $5000, They afterward 
opened a commercial establishment there, using the 
building as a store, and in the winter of 1849-50 this 
buildinor was converted into the United States Hotel, 
which became a popular resort. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Commodore Wilkes and Fleet visit the Pacific Coast Waters in 1841 — A Survey of 
the Sacramento River is made — Captain Sutter Visited — He Entertains the 
Surveyors Bounteously — Commodore Wilkes as Gentleman and Officer — 
General Vallejo visits Wilkes — He receives a Salute — The Commodore has 
other Distinguished Visitors — The Commodore gives Interesting De- 
scriptions of his Pacific Explorations — Interchange of Visits between the 
Officers of the Fleet and of Fort Ross — The Fleet secures its Supplies from 
Spear, which enables the Author to become Intimate with its Officers — A 
Jolly Set — CDmmodore Wilkes is too Busy to I'articipate in the Current 
Festivities — Spear and the Commodore become Intimate — Spear was the 
First Merchant in Verba Buena — He is Profuse in his Praises of the 
Country's Resources and Climatic Advantages to his Eastern Corres- 
pondent — He Declines to become a Mexican Citizen — Visit of British War 
Ships to the Bay — A Design Suspected of Prompting the Visit — Movements 
that are watched by Commodore Wilkes. 

In 1 84 1 the squadron in command of Commodore 
Wilkes visited the Columbia river on an exploring- ex- 
pedition, the fleet consisting of the United States sloop 
of war " Vincennes," which was the flag ship, the sloop of 
war "Peacock," commanded by Captain Hudson, and the 
brig " Porpoise." In going into the Columbia, across 
the bar, the "Peacock" was lost, and became a total 
wreck, but the officers and crew were rescued and taken 
on the two other vessels. Sailing thence, after the 
completion of their work on the Columbia, the " Vin- 
cennes " and "Porpoise" arrived in the bay of San 
Francisco in July and anchored off Saucelito. Soon 
after, the numerous boats of the vessels were prepared 
for the survev of the Sacramento river. Commodore 



^ 



COMMODORE WILKKS. 123 

Wilkes headed the party, and they were engaged for 
about two months in exploring that river and some of 
its branches. During the survey they frequently visited 
Captain Sutter, and I have often heard the officers 
speak of his hospitality to them at his establishment on 
the Sacramento. They also made some surveys of San 
Francisco bav, remaining here until October. 

Commodore Wilkes was not a man to impress a 
stranger favorably at first sight, being rather severe 
and forbidding in aspect, not genial and companionable, 
and not popular with his officers, though they gave him 
credit for being very thorough in his disci[)line and 
duties, and there is no doubt he was a great explorer 
and a thoroughly scientific man. He was an indefatiga- 
ble worker and accomplished a great deal, but, unlike 
other distinguished commanders who visited the coast, 
he was not given to sociability and had no entertain- 
ments on board his vessel ; although several were given 
by his officers, who were a genial set, fond of enjoy- 
ments. I partook of their hospitality on several occa- 
sions, and had a very pleasant time. 

Wilkes was visited by General V^allejo and his 
brother Captain Salvador Vallejo, on board the " Vin- 
cennes," and the general was received with a salute and 
all the naval courtesies due to the commander-in-chief 
of the forces of the departmcmt of California. He 
was also visited by Governor Alexander Rotcheff, of the 
Russian Fur Company at Fort Ross, and 1 afterward 
heard Rotcheff say, when speaking of his visit to Wilkes, 



124 VISITS OF NAVAL OFFICERS ASHORE. 

that he took orreat interest in this exploring expedition. 
In his visits to Spear, which he made frequently, he 
told us with enthusiasm of his listeninQ; for hours to 
Wilkes and his officers in their accounts of their visits 
to the South Sea Islands and other parts of the globe, 
and their descriptions of the habits, manners, character 
and mode of life of the natives. Some of the officers 
of the squadron visited Rotcheft"at Fort Ross, and were 
handsomely entertained by him during their brief stay. 
It was sixty or seventy miles from Saucelito to Fort 
Ross, and to enable the officers to get there conven- 
iently, Rotcheff sent down a number of his finest horses, 
with a vaquero, to take them up, having adopted the 
Spanish fashion of herding horses in capoueras, and 
being well furnished with fine stock. He returned the 
officers in the same way, after their visit. Some of 
these navy officers also visited General Vallejo at So- 
noma, and were entertained by him very agreeably. 

The supplies for the ward-rooms of the two 
vessels while in port, were obtained from Spear, and as 
I was his active business man, I became well acquainted 
with the officers. I found them fine fellows, full of life, 
and ready for any enjoyment that came along. They 
would sometimes send over a boat for supplies in 
the morning, and address me a line, saying they 
would be over in the evening, a dozen of them 
or so. Meanwhile I would dispatch a boy out to my 
friend Guerrero, the sub-prefect, at the Mission 
Dolores, asking him to send me a dozen horses and 



WILKES ESTEEM FOR STEAR. 125 

saddles, which he would kindly do. If there were not 
saddles enough, I made them up in town. When the 
party arrived in town about dusk, the horses would be 
ready, and mounting them, we rode out to Guerrero's 
house. The young men and women in the neigh- 
borhood were invited in, and we would have a little 
dance, the party generally lasting till morning. The 
young fellows from the ship enjoyed it highly after 
their long life at sea. 

Commodore Wilkes seldom came ashore at Yerba 
Buena, being a very busy man, and when not engaged 
in surveying outside, was industriously occupied on the 
vessel in working out the results of his explorations and 
surveys, and recording them. 

Spear appreciated Wilkes' labors, and the commo- 
dore took quite a liking to him and invited him to dine 
on board the vessel several times, and they had several 
interviews.' Spear had great respect and admiration for 
the commodore, which was reciprocated by him, for 
whenever he found a man who could understand and ap- 
preciate his work, which was everything to him, he be- 
came more affable and companionable than with others. 

Wilkes more particularly esteemed Spear from the 
fact that he was an American, and one of the first Amer- 
ican settlers on the coast, having come here in 1 823 ; and 
also from the fact that he had done a great deal through 
his correspondence with friends in the east to inform the 
United States government of the great resources and 
future importance of California, describing minutely its 



126 spear's eastern CORRESl'ONDENXE. 

climate, soil, productions and commercial advantages. 
His principal correspondent was his brother, Paul Spear, 
a wealthy druggist of Boston, who communicated through 
friends in Washington this information to the authori- 
ties. Spear also predicted to me and others that at 
some future time mineral discov^eries of importance 
would be made here. 

These efforts of Spear to make the advantages of 
California known to the government, and his views and 
opinions in regard thereto, greatly interested Wilkes, 
and he commended him warmly for what he had done 
in that direction. Spear was the first merchant who es- 
tablished himself on shore in California, first at Mon- 
terey, afterward with a branch at Yerba Buena, to 
which place he went later himself. 

Governor Alvarado, who felt very grateful to Spear 
for the aid he had given him in his younger days, and 
with whom he always maintained a cordial friendship, 
often suggested to Spear that he should become a Mex- 
ican citizen, and urged this upon him repeatedly, in or- 
der that he might bestow upon him a grant of eleven 
leagues of land, which was the extent allowed by law, 
and which grant could only be made to a citizen of 
Mexico, and he assured him that he would be most 
happy to do this if Spear would only comply with his 
suggestion ; but Spear persistently refused to renounce 
his allegiance to his own country, which he honored and 
loved too much to wish to change his nationality, even 
for so tempting an offer, although many Americans and 



WILKES OBSERVATIONS. 127 

Other foreigners had done so for the purpose of ob- 
taining grants of land from the Mexican Lrovernnicnt. 
During their friendly intercourse the governor would 
sometimes say to Spear, " Don Natan, it is only a ques- 
tion of time when this country will belong to your gov- 
ernment. I regret this, but such is undoubtedly the 
ruling of Providence ; " or something to that effect. 

Spear told me that in his conversations with 
Wilkes, in visiting him on the vessel, the commodore 
expressed himself repeatedly as more than delighted 
with the bay of San Francisco and the Sacramento ri\er, 
and said there was no question as to the future great- 
ness and importance which would ensue when the bay 
and the other commercial advantages of this territory 
were av^aiied of. He said also that California would 
surely belong to our government at some time in the 
future. It was understood, and was, in fact, stated by 
Wilkes to Spear, that the chief object of his visit to 
California was to obtain and report accurate information 
in regard to the bay of San Francisco to the govern- 
m.ent at Washington, with a view of future acquisition. 
Wilkes, on being informed that Mofras had been 
the guest of Spear while stopping at Yerba Buena, 
was greatly interested, and inquired carefully and par- 
ticularly about Mofras' visit to California, asking Spear 
for all the details of his movements here and his con- 
versations. He was particularly anxious to know if 
Mofras ever divulo^ed that the French ofovernment had 
any designs or intentions in regard to the bay of San 
Francisco. 



128 A BRITISH WAR VESSEL IN PORT. 

In my visits to the officers of the vessels the con- 
versation in the ward-room would frequently turn upon 
the bay of San Francisco, and they often declared their 
admiration, and said that in all their visits to other 
parts of the world they had seen nothing to equal it. 
The more they became conversant with it in their 
surveys the more they were impressed with its import- 
tance, and they would sometimes exclaim, " This is 
ours !" referring to the future, when the United States 
government should hold possession of this part of the 
country. 

During my early residence here British men-of- 
war came to the coast and to the bay of San Francisco 
about once a year or so, remaining two or three weeks 
at a time, touching also at Monterey, and sometimes 
going north to visit the British possessions. They 
generally landed at Saucelito, at which point they re- 
plenished their supplies to some extent. Captain Rich- 
ardson, the owner of Saucelito Rancho, an English- 
man, was a social man and very obliging, and he made 
it pleasant for them to go there. He supplied them 
with wood from his ranch, also beef, and allowed them 
to procure water from the springs on his place. It 
was the impression among the foreign residents here, 
especially the Americans, that these visits of British 
government vessels had some significance ; that they 
called here under instructions from the British govern- 
ment, to observe in a quiet way, the bay, the surround- 
ing country, its facilities, the people, the probable re- 



ENGLISH DESIGNS. I 29 

sources of Ccilifornia, and to note whatever was going 
on, with some view to the future possibility of Eng- 
land's obtaining possession. American men-of-war 
came here more frequently, in the same way, and 
stopped several weeks at a time. In fact, there was 
nearly always a United States government vessel either 
at Yerba Buena or Monterey, or somewhere in the 
neighborhood, often more than one, up tothe time when 
the country came into our possession. 

It was the impression then, and doubtless the fact, 
that the American war vessels were sent for the purpose 
of keeping an eye on the vessels of other nations, 
particularly the British, as bearing upon the future 
of California ; and in my intercourse with the com- 
manders and officers of the United States Qroveinment 
vessels, they expressed to me their suspicion or fear 
that the English had designs upon the country, and the 
hope that they would not be permitted to anticipate any 
movements our own government might contemplate, and 
Qfet ahead of us in securinof an advantaofe in California. 

In Spear's interviews with Wilkes when he visited 
him on board the "Vincennes," the commodore freely 
conversed with him about the future of the Pacific 
coast, and stated that the British government was the 
only power which the United States had cause to feel 
any concern about in reference to California, and said 
further, that the United States squadron in the Pacific 
was specially instructed to keep an eye on the move- 
ments of the British vessels of war in this ocean, with 

9 



130 MASON AND SLIDELL. 

a view of intercepting any movement that they might 
make looking toward securing possession of California, 
The commodore at this time showed that he had no 
special liking for the English, as was subsequently 
evinced in his memorable capture of Mason and Slidell 
from a British vessel durinfj our civil war. In one of 
his conversations with Spear he said, with that frank- 
ness and freedom from reserve which characterized his 
speech with those in whom he felt confidence, "These 
Britishers shall never get possession of California. Our 
government is constantly on the alert to prevent any 
such design. We are their equal, and a little more, as 
has been proved in the past." This greatly delighted 
Spear, who was a thorough American, and longed to 
have the country come under the American flag. Wilkes 
also informed Spear that our consul at Monterey 
was specially instructed by the government authorities 
at Washington, through the secretary of state, to con- 
stantly advise the government of all the movements 
of the English on this coast. 

During the visit of Wilkes' squadron to the Eiji 
Islands, prior to coming to California, a chief of high 
rank had been taken captive in one of the fights 
which frequently occurred between the different tribes. 
The chief was held by his captors for ransom. Wilkes 
being desirous of securing a Fijian to take home with 
him, paid the ransom in presents of such articles as he 
had on board his vessel to the captors, who thereupon 
released their prisoner, and Wilkes took him on board 



A FIJIAN CHIEF. I3I 

his vessel and brought him to Cahfornia. He was a 
thorough savage and cannibal. In my visits to the 
" Vincennes" I frequently saw him. He was confined 
in a room of good size, in the forepart of the vessel, 
constantly guarded by a marine. He was a man of 
large and powerful frame, with rather a square counte- 
nance, and a cunning look in his eyes, but not ferocious 
in his appearance and manner. He was very dark in 
his complexion, something between a negro and a 
malay, and had a heavy head of hair, looking like an 
immense bunch of oakum — -probably two feet in 
diameter from side to side, and a foot high from the 
top of his head, giving him a very singular appearance. 
He seemed to regard this hair as sacredly as the 
Chinese do their pigtails, and when the officers of the 
vessel suggested that some of it be clipped off, for the 
benefit of his health, he begged most piteously, with 
tears in his eyes, that they would not touch it, saying 
he would rather die, or submit to any torture or disgrace, 
than be deprived of it. When first taken he was of great 
size, weighing probably 250 pounds, but while impris- 
oned on the vessel he had become reduced to about 200. 
I once went into his place of confinement, and saluted 
him, and shook hands with him. He returned the salute 
with a kind of nod, showing some appreciation of the 
attention paid him. He was carefully and kindly pro- 
vided for; everything was done that could be for his 
health and comfort, as the commodore was desirous of 
getting him to Washington ; but his confinement wore 



132 WILLIAM A. RICHARDSON. 

upon him ; he was impatient and uneasy, and I subse- 
quently learned that he died on the voyage eastward 
after the vessel left here. 

Captain Richardson repeated to Commodore Wilkes 
the tradition of the old Indian Monica with regard to 
Golden Gate at one time having been closed, and sub- 
sequently rent apart by some great convulsion of nature, 
making an outlet for the waters of the bay through 
to the ocean, and Wilkes became greatly interested 
in the matter. With some of his scientific corps, to- 
gether with Captain Richardson, he went out to the 
Golden Gate in one of his boats to carefully observe 
the two points on either side ; having become famil- 
iar with the bay in their surveys, which extended as far 
up as Alviso and the surrounding country, they could 
form an intelligent opinion in the matter. They said 
they thought it probable that the story of the old Ind- 
ian was correct, and that the bay once found an outlet 
through the San Jose valley into Monterey bay. The 
botanist of the party, with whom I was quite intimate, 
particularly expressed his belief in the correctness of 
this theory or tradition. The commodore was so inter- 
ested in the matter that he had the old Indian Monica 
brought on board his vessel by Captain Richardson, 
and questioned him closely all about it himself. Monica 
was treated with great courtesy on this occasion and 
was shown all over the vessel. The Fiji captive was 
also exhibited to him, and he regarded him with much 
interest and curiosity, especially as Captain Richardson 



DR. OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES. I 33 

explained to him that in his own country he was a great 
fighter ; that after a battle between the different tribes 
the bodies of the slain were taken by the victors and 
devoured as a grand feast. 

Commodore Wilkes had with him a full scientific 
corps, all the various departments covered by the ex- 
pedition being represented, and in the ablest manner. 
Probably there never was sent out by the government 
a more thoroughly skilled and learned set of men. The 
regular officers of the vessels also were very well fitted 
for their work, highly capable, and were of great aid to 
the commodore in his labors. The first surgeon of the 
fleet, Dr. Holmes, I discovered in conversation was a 
distant relative of mine. When I told him of my grand- 
father and other relatives in Massachusetts I was treated 
with great attention. Doctor Oliver Wendell Holmes, 
the author, is of the same family, and was named after 
my grandfather, Oliver. 

Captain Richardson who had come here in 1823, 
was much liked by Wilkes, though an Englishman, in- 
asmuch as he was a thorough sailor and pilot, and well 
acquainted with the bay of San Francisco, and he was 
also an agreeable and obliging gentleman. He gave 
Wilkes a good deal of information about different parts 
of the bay, indicated points for examination and survey, 
and his suggestions were of aid to Wilkes and were 
found by him of much value. When the commodore was 
about to leave the bay of San Francisco for Monterey, 
he requested Richardson to pilot the vessel out to sea. 



134 ACCIDENT ON BOARD THE FLAG-SHIP. 

Richardson advised him not to leave on the day ap- 
pointed, as there had been a strong south-east wind 
blowing, the bar was very rough, breaking almost 
across, and he thought it too hazardous. The commo- 
dore being of a very determined nature — headstrong, 
as Richardson expressed it — was not easily changed 
from his purpose when he had once made up his mind 
to anything. He said he would go nevertheless, and 
asked Richardson to be on board at a certain hour. 
The vessels accordingly started, but on nearing the bar 
it was decided to come to anchor just inside, which they 
did. During their stay there, the swell of the sea swept 
over the " Vincennes," and broke loose and set in motion 
some spars on the upper deck, which killed two of the 
marines on board. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

Captain Eliab Grimes — The Mexican Government has no Revenue Cutters to pre- 
vent Otter Hunting — Captain Bancroft presumes too much upon the forbear- 
ance of his Alaskan Hunters — Reprimands them Severely and Loses his Life 
— The Hunters are Racified — The Mate takes the Vessel to Alaska — Dis- 
charges the Hunters and proceeds to Honolulu — A British ship Arrives 
in San Francisco Bay on a Surveying Expedition — The result of the 
Captain's Labors is kept Secret — The Object Apparent — Captain Wm. A. 
Leidesdorff comes to California in 1841, in the Schooner " Juliann "' — 
The Author becomes Supercargo of the "Don (Quixote," Captain J<jhn 
Paty — Sails to Honolulu with a Vessel load of Hides — That City a Central 
Mart for the Pacific Ocean Trade. 

From 1835 to 1839 Captain Eliab Grinif^s, of 
Boston, was a wealthy merchant at Honolulu, engaged 
in general trade. He imported his goods from Boston, 
and sent out once a year from the Islands for the 
purpose of hunting the sea-otters on the coast of Cali- 
fornia, the American brig " Conroy," owned by him, 
and commanded by Captain James Bancroft, an English- 
man by birth, but a citizen of the United States by 
naturalization. Bancroft lived at Honolulu. On these 
voyages the vessel first proceeded to the coast of 
Alaska, where she took on board from sixty to seventy 
of the native Indians as hunters, with their light-skin 
canoes, and then brought them down to the coast of 
California, the favorite hunting ground being off shore 
between Santa Barbara and San Diego. They generally 
arrived there early in the spring, and continued the 
work during the summer and until late in the autumn, 



136 HUNTING SEA-OTTERS OFF SANTA BARBARA. 

when the season expired. They were always very suc- 
cessful in securing a large number of skins, and when 
the hunting was over, the vessel returned to Alaska to 
leave the hunters and their canoes, and proceeded 
thence to Honolulu. As these skins were very valu- 
able, Captain Grimes and Captain Bancroft, the latter 
having an interest in the vessel and the voyage, became 
wealthy. Hunting sea-otters on the coast of California 
without permission of the authorities was contrary to 
the laws of Mexico. Captain Bancroft had no such per- 
mission and was therefore violating the law. But as 
the government had no revenue cutters to enforce it> 
the offenders pursued their profitable occupation with- 
out interference. In 1837 the government of the de- 
. partment of California bought of Captain John Paty a 
schooner of about a hundred tons, named the " Califor- 
nia," but she was not fitted for revenue-cutter service, 
having only one or two small guns, and she was used 
chiefly to carry dispatches bi^tween Monterey and Maz- 
atlan and San Bias, in communication between the de- 
partment of California and the supreme government at 
Mexico. Captain Bancroft married at Honolulu in 
1836, and on the last voyage he ever made, in 1S39, 
he was accompanied by his wife. In the summer of 
that year, the brig was lying at anchor at the Island of 
Santa Cruz, off Santa Barbara ; one day the Indians re- 
turning in their canoes from the hunt, towards evening, 
collected around the vessel, and Captain Bancroft 
spoke to them from the deck in their own language, 



CAPTAIN BANCROFT SHOT BY INDIANS. 1 37 

and inquired about their success for the day. Their 
report did not satisfy him, as they had not obtained the 
usual number of otters, and he began to talk severely 
to them, reprimanding them for their ill success, thinking 
he could say what he pleased to them. Upon this, they 
rushed on board the vessel in large numbers, pointing at 
him their loaded rifles with which they killed the otter, 
in the use of which they were expert, and commenced 
firing. He fell upon the deck. Meanwhile, his wife, who 
was in the cabin, and who always had more or less dread 
of these Indians, hearing the tumult above, hastened up ; 
seeing her husband lying bleeding on the quarter-deck, 
and the Indians around him, she flew to the spot and 
fell upon him, covering his body completely with her own 
to protect him from his assailants. The assault con- 
tinued, and she was severely wounded. Captain Ban- 
croft died on the spot. The natives were quieted after 
a time, when the mate took command of the vessel, and 
returned them to Alaska. He then sailed for the 
Islands with Mrs. Bancroft and the body of her hus- 
band, which was preserved, for burial at Honolulu. 
She survived bL\t a few weeks after reaching her home, 
though attended by the best medical skill. Her life 
might have been saved had she consented to submit to 
a surgical operation which was proposed, but she de- 
clined to have it performed. After the tragic death of 
her husband she had no desire to live. 

In the spring of 1839 there arrived in the bay ot 
San Francisco from British Columbia a British vessel 



138 WILLIAM A. LEIDESDORFF. 

of war, Captain Belcher, which anchored east of Yerba 
Buena. She was on an exploring expedition in the 
Pacific Ocean. Soon after the vessel dropped anchor 
Captain Belcher came ashore, accompanied by some of 
his officers, and called at Spear's store and also at 
Jacob P. Leese's residence. Captain Belcher stated to 
Mr. Spear that he would remain in the bay a few weeks 
and make some surveys of our miniature inland sea and 
the Sacramento river. The work of the ship while in 
the bay was never made known to anyone here, at the 
tune, to my knowledge. She remained at Yerba Buena 
but twenty-four hours, and then departed for Saucelito, 
where she was anchored during the work of her boats 
around the bay and on the Sacramento river. Captain 
Richardson, owner of the Saucelito rancho, said but 
little or nothing in regard to Captain Belcher's visit and 
his surveys of the bay and rivers. 

At this early period, and several years before 
Wilke's exploring expedition, it would seem that Eng- 
land had her attention directed to the value and im- 
portance of the bay of San Francisco from its geograph- 
ical position as the commercial center of the Pacific 
Ocean trade in the future. 

The schooner " Juliann," Captain William A. Leides- 
dorff, who is well known in the history of San Francisco, 
left New York about January, 1841, for the coast of 
California through the Straits of Magellan. J. C. Jones, 
former United States consul at Honolulu, who owned 
the schooner, left New York sometime afterward in a 



VOYAGE TIIROUC.H THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. I 39 

sailing vessel to meet the " Juliann " at Panama. He 
proceeded to the Isthmus on the Atlantic side, crossed 
to Panama, and expected to find the vessel there on his 
arrival, but was compelled to wait sixty days before she 
appeared. 

During her passage through the Straits she en- 
countered many delays and perils, having almost con- 
stant head-winds, and being in great dread of the Ind- 
ians, who were cannibals and who swarmed about the 
vessel in their canoes, a little distance off, apparently 
waiting an opportunity to pounce upon the schooner and 
capture all on board. A constant watch was therefore 
kept up to prevent such a calamity. They finally 
got through the Straits, and were greatly relieved to 
findthemselves beyond the reach of the savages. They 
arrived at Panama just as Jones was about chartering 
another vessel to take him up the coast, thinking 
his own must be lost. Robert G. Davis, a brother of 
mine, was a passenger on board the schooner ; also John 
Weed, of a very wealthy family of New York, who took 
the voyage for the benefit of his health. My brother 
had a stock of merchandise aboard for sale on the 
coast. She arrived at Monterey in June, 1841. This 
was Leidesdorff's first visit here. 

In January, 1842, I left Nathan Spear and took 
passage on the ship " Alert," Captain Phelps, to Monte- 
rey, and there found the bark " Don Quixote," Captain 
John Paty, and I made arrangements with him to be- 
come supercargo of that vessel, and at once assumed 



140 SUPERCARGO OF THE "DON QUIXOTE." 

that position. We came to Yerba Buena, remained 
here a few weeks, trading around the bay, and I made 
very successful sales and collections for Paty. On leav- 
ing here we proceeded to Monterey. About the last of 
February we sailed from there for Honolulu with a cargo 
of hides and otter and beaver skins, which we disposed 
of on reaching there, and purchased a full cargo of 
goods for the market of California. 

These goods had been brought principally from 
Boston and New York, and some from England, France 
and Germany. There was only five per cent, duty on 
foreign goods imported into the Islands in those days, 
and Honolulu was a kind of depot or central point 
where the ships brought their goods from different parts 
of the world, and they were sold there and sent out to 
supply the whole western coast of America, going to 
various points in California, the Columbia river, the 
British and Russian possessions north, and also to Mex- 
ican ports. 



CHAPTER XX. 

The "Don Quixote" returns to San Francisco, and becomes a Coast Trader — 
A Misunderstanding with the Customs Officers — Smuggling Operations Dis- 
covered but not Reported — Escape from the Surveillance of the Sub-Prefect 
— A Profitable Night's Work — Explanation why the Merchants at one time 
Violated the Mexican Revenue Laws — Clever Tricks to avoid the Customs 
Taxes— The First Steam Saw Mill— It is Located in the Bodego Lumber 
Region — A New Firm Established at San Diego — The Author leaves the 
"Don Quixote," and becomes an Agent of the Firm at Verba Buena — 
Business Lively. 

The " Don Quixote" left Honolulu on the 31st of 
May and returned to this coast, entered at Monterey, 
and traded along the coast for the remainder of the 
year; and she left Santa Barbara, returning to Honolulu, 
in February, 1843 > sailing thence, she arrived at Verba 
Buena on the 20th of May. 

On this voyage also we brought to port a full cargo 
of merchandise Immediately the sub-prefect came on 
board and ordered us to Monterey for entry. I knew 
the sub-prefect well, and told him the tide would not ad- 
mit of our leaving till the next day. He then placed a 
guard upon the vessel to remain with us until we left the 
port, not a regular custom house officer, but a citizen 
selected by him for this special duty. We had a 
purpose in coming to Verba Buena first. The duties 
on goods imported into California were very high at 
that time, and this was a great temptation to merchants 
trading on the coast to avoid them as far as possible. 
The invoice cost of our cargro at Honolulu was $20,000, 



14^ AN OBLIGING CUSTOMS OFFICER. 

and the duties would have amounted to nearly or quite 
as much, averaging" about loo per cent. While the 
merchants and captains trading on the coast desired to 
keep on friendly terms with the Mexican government, 
and had no thought or intention of opposing it in any 
way, at the same time they did not entertain so much 
affection for it as to induce them to contribute to its 
revenues any more than they could well avoid, and so 
whenever they saw an opportunity to outwit the custom 
house authorities they availed of it. 

Soon after the guard was placed on board, one of 
us who knew him very well, approached him and told 
him we were going to lock him up in a state room. 
"What?" said he in surprise; "What's the matter ?" 
We laughed, and told him not to be alarmed, and he 
soon understood, apparently, what we were aiming at. 
He was told that he could have his supper and could 
take his smoke, and then go into the state-room, where 
he would find a nice bed, a bottle of Madeira, a bottle 
of aguardiente, cigars, and everything to make him 
comfortable, and that the door would be locked and the 
key taken away, and he was to go to sleep and take it 
easy, and in the morning he would be let out and given 
$20 in gold. " Don't say any more," he replied ; " that's 
enough." 

Accordingly, after finishing his supper and his cigar, 
he went into the state-room, as desired, the door was 
locked and the kev laid aside, and nothing further was 
heard from him till the next morning. We put on all 



EXIIORBITANT IMPORT DUTIES. 1 43 

the boats and men, and during the night worked indus- 
triously and landed about half our cargo, all the more 
valuable goods — silks, etc., on which the duty was the 
highest, and a large quantity of sugar. The tide favored 
us, and we put the goods on the beach near Spear's store, 
and the men rolled them in. We ceased oiu* labors 
about four o'clock in the morning, well satisfied with our 
night's work. 

There was another vessel in the harbor, the ship 
"Admittance," of Boston, Captain Peterson, Henry 
Melius supercargo, afterward of the firm of Melius & 
Howard. We muffled our oars in order not to attract 
■ the attention of the officers and crew of that vessel, but 
our movements were observed by them, as they informed 
us sometime afterward. We had, however, no fear of 
them, for we knew they would not report us, as they 
might sometime themselves be engaged in similar busi- 
ness, and they were interested in keeping quiet. The 
penalties for smuggling were very severe under the 
Mexican law — death in some cases. W^e left on the 
following day for Monterey, to enter the remainder of 
the cargo, first recompensing our guard, as promised, 
and putting him ashore, and on reaching the port of 
entry we duly entered the goods on board and paid the 
duties, to the satisfaction of the custom house, having 
saved a handsome sum by our night's operations, con- 
cerning which no suspicion was ever created in the minds 
of the sub- prefect or custom house officers. 



144 EXHORBITANT IMPORT DUTIES. 

I propose to say something in regard to the evasion 
of the revenue laws of Mexico by the merchants of Cal- 
ifornia in early clays, in order that the matter may be 
fully understood and regarded in its true light ; to show 
that those who were transgressors of the law in this re- 
spect were not considered as law-breakers in any odious 
sense, but were in entire good standing in the commu- 
nity, and were, to a certain extent, benefiting the people 
and doing a service to the country. 

In entering goods at the custom, house, the 
revenue officers did not require any oath from the mer- 
chants as to the correctness of the invoices presented 
by them ; in fact, no oath of any kind was required of ' 
them ; and the practice was to prepare fictitious in- 
voices, and pay $10,000 instead of $40,000, on a 
cargo of the value of the last named sum. The 
duties on goods imported from foreign countries were 
very high, averaging about 100 per cent., as previously 
stated ; so that a cargo of miscellaneous goods costing 
in Boston $50,000 would be subject to duties of about 
the same amount on entering at the custom house, mak- 
ing $100,000, to which must be added, as a legitimate 
part of the cost of the goods, various expenses, such as 
the cost of the voyage from Boston to this coast and 
back, including the stay of the vessel here and her 
sailing up and down the coast (about three years being 
consumed in the whole voyage from Boston out and re- 
turn), the wear and tear of the vessel, the wages of the 
crew, the pay of the officers, the commission of the 



MEXICAN CUSTOMS DUES EVADED. 1 45 

supercargo, the supplies of the ship in provisions, the 
cost of purchasing and collecting hides and tallow and 
preparing the hides for the return voyage, the long 
credit given to the rancheros and other purchasers of 
goods, besides the numberless other expenses, little and 
great, all immediately or remotely connected with the 
expedition ; and also the interest on the capital invested ; 
all together making the cost of the business very heavy. 

These expenses were to be reimbursed from the 
profits arising from the exchange here, for hides, of the 
cargo from Boston and the sale of the hides there. In 
order to make this profitable the merchants found it nec- 
essary to evade the payment of duties to the Mexican 
government so far as practicable, and these duties were 
evaded to a very considerable extent, probably one-half. 

Had the shipper been compelled, under a more 
stringent administration of the law, to pay the full 
amount of duties, he could not have made a fair profit 
out of the business. Moreover, he would have been 
compelled to charge so high a price for his goods that 
it v^ould have been a severe tax upon the rancheros 
who required them. 

It will be seen, therefore, that not only was the 
temptation to smuggle very great, under the facilities 
presented by a loose administration of the revenue laws, 
but there w^ere excellent reasons why the payment of 
duties should be evaded. They operated to such an 
extent that the merchant did not feel under that moral 
restraint, especially in the absence of the oath, which 

10 



146 MEXICAN CUSTOMS DUES EVADED. 

under other circumstances he might have experienced. 
If he defrauded the government, he was helping the 
people. 

It would not have been good policy to crowd or 
cripple the farmers by making them pay exorbitant 
prices for their goods. This would have reacted upon 
the merchants and been injurious to the department. 
To give a higher price for his goods, on account of the 
larger duties paid by the merchant, the farmer would 
have been compelled to slaughter a larger number of 
cattle to secure the requisite quantity of hides and tal- 
low to pay for them, thereby subtracting so much more 
from his wealth and the wealth of the department. The 
merchants, therefore, not only benefited themselves by 
this evasion of the duties, but, to a greater or less ex- 
tent, protected the farmer at the same tinie. Although 
I never knew an instance of the bribery of an official 
by a merchant, yet the officers of the revenue must have 
had in their own minds an idea that the customs laws 
were evaded. 

The relations of the officials and the merchants 
were very pleasant. They associated together in the 
most friendly manner. The merchants always made it 
agreeable for the officials whenever they came aboard 
the vessels, treating them courteously and hospitably. 
The hieh rate of duties was sometimes alluded to, when 
the officers would smilingly say that they themselves 
considered the duties as very high. They would add 
that they presumed the government of Mexico knew 



MEXICAN CUSTOMS DUES EVADED. I47 

what it was about when it fixed the rates. I have heard 
them admit that if the duties had been lower the gov- 
ernment would probably have secured more revenue. 
Although I don't mean to intimate that they connived 
with the merchants knowingly to defraud the govern- 
ment, yet they certainly were not very sharpsighted or 
severe in the discharge of their vocation. However, 
had they been ever so vigilant and desirous of rigidly 
enforcing the laws, they were really powerless to do so 
efficiently, for they had no detectives, no revenue cut- 
ters — none of those numerous aids and facilities for 
detecting the offender against the laws which prevail in 
these latter days. 

It was then considered as no disgrace for a mer- 
chant to evade the revenue laws to such an extent as 
he thought proper to take the risk ; some doing so 
more than others ; although it was never talked about 
among the merchants themselves, or made public in 
any way. There was a kind of tacit understanding 
that this was the general custom, and it was all right 
and proper to get as many goods in free of duty as pos- 
sible, and it was encouraged by the rancheros them- 
selves, as many were not solicitous of assisting the 
remote general government at Mexico by payment of 
exhorbitant taxes in duties upon the necessaries of life 
required by them. Had the merchant been compelled 
to make oath, it would have been respected. The mer- 
chants, who were all foreigners, were an honorable and 
high-minded set of men, and would not have per- 
jured themselves to evade the duties. 



148 MEXICAN CUSTOMS DUES EVADED. 

A large amount of goods could easily be concealed 
in the lining of a vessel, or a false lining be built, at 
no great expense around the sides of the ship, behind 
which they could be stowed away. There were 
numerous other hiding places which could be availed 
of. The captain, with the aid of the mates and the 
ship's carpenter, could make whatever arrangements 
or alterations were necessary to successfully con- 
ceal a large amount of goods. When the vessel 
reached the port of entry, the customs officers would go 
through the formality of making an examination of the 
ship ; but they did it in quite a superficial way. They 
were so exceedingly well-mannered that they did not 
wish to appear impolite, and so they did not make any 
critical and offensive scrutiny of the arrangements 
and contents of the vessel. Portions of the cargoes of 
vessels trading from South America and the Sandwich 
Islands were sometimes deposited upon the Islands off 
Santa Barbara, when the vessels approached the coast, 
before coming to the port of entry. I know of one in- 
stance in which about two-thirds of the cargo of a 
vessel from Honolulu was landed upon the Island of 
Saint Nicolas, about seventy miles south-east of Santa 
Barbara, after which the vessel entered at the custom 
house, paid the duties on the remainder of the cargo, 
and then returned to the Island and took in the portion 
she had left there. She then went on her way, trading 
about the coast as usual. Invoices also were arranged 
to suit the plans of the merchants. Goods were some- 



A STEAM SAW-MILL OPERATED IN 1 843. 1 49 

times landed at night at Yerba Buena and other points 
outside of the port of entry, and at the port of entry 
itself, by eluding the officers, before entry was made. 
The rancheros, in a general way, would hint to the 
merchants that they ought to smuggle all the goods 
they could ; they knowing they would get what they 
purchased cheaper than if all the duties were paid. 

At Monterey we found the Baltimore bark 
" George and Henry," captain Stephen Smith, which 
had arrived a few days before from Callao, and had on 
board a steam saw-mill, the first ever brought to this 
coast. It was set in operation in the woods near 
Bodega for sawing lumber. Smith had visited Cali- 
fornia in 1 84 1 and purchased of Captain Sutter all his 
title and interest in Bodega, and also bought, for work 
of the mill, the rancho Blucher, near Bodega, covered 
with timber, mostly redwood. 

In a few weeks we came to Yerba Buena, (our 
vessel, after having made entry and paid duties at the 
custom house, being free to go anywhere on coast trade) 
and took on board in the daytime and openly what we 
had secretly landed on the night of the 20th of May, 
transporting small lots at a time. This created no 
suspicion, as Spear, having a large stock of goods on hand 
at his store, might be supposed to be shipping a quantity 
of them down the coast. We left again, and traded along 
the coast as far as San Diego. There a new firm was 
formed, that of Paty, McKinlay & Co., for general 
trading purposes, consisting of Captain John Paty, ot 



150 LARGE MERCANTILE TRANSACTIONS IN I 845. 

the vessel, James McKinlay and Henry D. Fitch. The 
vessel went in as a part of the stock of the concern, 
being still under the command of Captain Paty. We 
then returned to Yerba Buena, after having touched at 
intermediate ports, and taking on at San Pedro some 
cargo belonging to McKinlay & Fitch, which came into 
general stock. On reaching Yerba Buena, we landed 
about half the cargo of the vessel at Richardson's old 
adobe building, which stood where Dupont street is 
now, between Clay and Washington, and was then 
owned by McKinlay, he having bought it of Richard- 
son a few years previous. I then quit the vessel, Mr. 
McKinlay taking my place as supercargo, while I re- 
mained at Yerba Buena with the goods, as commercial 
agent of the firm. I did a large business for them 
until September, 1845, the vessel meanwhile trading 
along the coast, visiting the bay of San Francisco three 
or four times during this period to supply me with 
stock from the stores on board. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

The American Occupation of Monterey in 1842, by Commotlore Jones — A 
Graphic Description of the Capture — A Mistake — Relincpiishment of the 
City — The Commodore's Action Sustained by the Government — A Mexican 
Vessel brought to by a Shot across her Bow-- Flying False Colors — A Sur- 
render — Lady Prisoners of War — The Author's Wife was One of Two— She 
Describes the Situation — Surrender of Monterey — A Wail in the Town — 
Commodore Jones gives to the People Assurances of Protection to Life and 
Property — A Pleasant Interview with the Commodore — He Relates the Story 
of his Proceedings at Monterey — The Great Responsibility he Felt led to His 
Mistake — Glad there was no Occasion for Hostilities — Favorably Imqiressed 
with California — Proud of being the First to raise the American Hag over the 
Soil — Felt Assured the Country would Some Day pass into American 
Possession. 

One of the most interesting events in the history 
of California was the first taking of Monterey by Com- 
modore Jones, in 1842. The following account has 
been kindly offered for my use by Mr. S. S. Culver- 
well, who was a participant in that affair, and who 
now resides in San Francisco. 

Culverwell's Story of Tin-: Capture. 

About August, 1842, the- American squadron, 
under Commodore A. Jones, was lying at Callao, Peru. 
I was on board the fricjate " United States." The 
sloop of war " Cyane," Captain Stringham, was near 
by. Commodore Jones was on the " United States," 
also Captain Armstrong, P"irst Lieutenant Lardner and 
Surgeon Maxwell, who recently died in San Francisco. 
There was also a British squadron in the harbor ot 
Callao, of which I think the "Vanguard" was the ad- 
miral's ship. It was understood among the shii)'s com- 



152 COMMODORE JONES AT MONTEREY. 

pany that we were to sail soon, as everything was in 
readiness for departure at short notice, but to what 
point we were destined nobody knew. It seemed to 
be the opinion, and was generally understood, that our 
sailing depended upon the movements of the British 
fleet, which was very closely watched by our vessels. 
One evening there was a ball given on the admiral's 
ship, at which the officers of our vessels were present, 
and on that occasion they learned that the English 
were to sail the next morning, but their destination was 
a secret. By this our own movements were guided ; for 
early the next morning we were under way, bound for 
Monterey, California. During the whole passage, the 
ship's company was exercised in practicing the guns 
and apparently preparing for something extraordinary. 
It leaked out in a few days that the commodore's in- 
structions were to keep watch of the British fleet, and, 
if anything should occur which looked suspicious, he 
was to get ahead, and take possession of Monterey. 

When we reached the bay of Monterey, the 
" Cyane" and the " United States" came to anchor op- 
posite the fort, and the same afternoon the commodore 
sent a message ashore to the alcalde or governor to 
surrender the place. The answer was returned that he 
was not in town. The ships' crews were at quarters on 
board all night. I was a boy of sixteen at that time — 
a powder boy, stationed in what was called the 
"slaughter house," just abreast of the main mast. I 
reniember the remarks made by the old salts on the 
night we were lying there at our moorings, looking up 
at lights in the fort and seeing men with lanterns run- 
ning arc'und here and there. The sailors surmised 
that any moment the guns of the fort might open fire 
upon us, and if they had done so, the general impres- 
sion was that they would have given us a pretty lively 
shaking up. The gunners on board our vessel said the 
first time their guns were let loose we would catch the 
whole of them just where we stood in the " slaughter 
house," and that one gun in the fort would do us more 



COMPLETING HIS CRUISE. 1 53 

damage than our whole broadside of twenty-six guns 
could do them. The crews of both our vessels were at 
the guns all night to be ready for action, and our offi- 
cers were watching intently the movements at the castle 
or fort. If any demonstration had been made, both 
ships would have opened fire immediately. The night 
passed off quietly however. 

The next morning at nine o'clock, the officers, 
marines and sailors were landed, and marching up to 
the fort, took possession of it, hoisted the American 
flag, and, to my recollection, retained possession about 
twenty-four hours. But there seemed to have been a 
mistake as to the intention of the English, for the fleet 
did not make its appearance at Monterey. 

We gave the place up, and returned to Callao ; 
there learned that Commodore Jones had been ordered 
home, and that Commodore Dallas was on his way out 
to relieve him. (This was only hearsay.) Our cruise of 
three years not being more than half finished, Commo- 
dore Jones wished to complete it and go home on his 
ship, and so kept out of the way of Dallas. We left 
Callao and sailed for the Sandwich Islands. After our 
visit there, we went to all the groups of islands in the 
Pacific Ocean. When the time of the cruise was up, 
we went to Valparaiso. Meanwhile, after we left Callao, 
Commodore Dallas, on board the United States frigate 
"Congress," followed us around from one place to 
another, but not overtaking us ; for he would arrive at 
a place just after we had left; and so, by dodging the 
"Congress" in this way, Commodore Jones completed 
his cruise and took the " old wagon," as the frigate 
" United States" was called, round to the Atlantic side, 
home. 

I understand that an official investigation of the 
commodore's action at Monterey took place, which re- 
sulted in exonerating Commodore Jones from blame 
for his action in the matter, and that he was presented 
with a gold-hiked sword for the vigilance which he had 
displayed in this affair. 



1.54 COMMODORE JONES UNDER FALSE COLORS. 

Mr. Culvervvell's contribution is made use of, it 
being an accurate statement, by an eye-witness, of the 
ev^ents detailed. 

While I was at Santa Barbara with the " Don 
Quixote " about the latter part of September, 1842, the 
"Joven Guipuzcoana," Captain Snook, was there also. 
He departed a few days before we did and proceeded 
up the coast to Monterey, trading along as usual. His 
vessel left the port of Monterey sometime in October. As 
she was beating out of that bay they saw two war 
vessels approaching from the south, and according to 
the usual custom raised the Mexican flao;, she beinof a 
Mexican bark ; and the two vessels approaching raised 
the English flag. When they got pretty near, a shot 
was fired from one of them across the bow of the " Joven 
Guipuzcoana " for that vessel to stop, which demand she 
complied with. Shortly after, she was hailed with an 
order to throw her foreyards back, which she did, and 
waited quietly not knowing what was the matter, until 
a boat put off from one of the other vessels and came 
alongside. The boat contained a lieutenant, midship- 
man, the ordinary boat's crew, and eight or ten men 
besides. When they came aboard his vessel Captain 
Snook observed that the officers wore the uniform of 
the United States navy, which puzzled him a good deal ; 
the vessels bore the English flag. They asked him to 
surrender the vessel to them, which he immediately did. 
They remained on board, and the three vessels came 
to anchor in the bay of Monterey, just under the bluff 






NON-CO.MBATANTS MADE TRISOXERS. I 55 

where the fort or castle stood, and then the EngHsh 
flag was hauled down on the two vessels of war and 
the American flag raised instead. These vessels were 
the United States frigate "United States" and the 
sloop-of-war " Cyane." 

When the "Joven Guipuzcoana " left Santa Bar- 
bara, Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo was on board, with his 
daughter, whom he had left with her aunt when quite 
young at San Diego, where she had since lived. He 
had not seen her for ten years, and was now taking 
her to their home at San Leandro. When the vessel 
was captured as above described, in going out of Mon- 
terey, this young lady and also Mrs. Snook, the cap- 
tain's wife, became prisoners of war. I learned from 
the former, who afterward became my wife, the facts in 
regard to what transpired on the vessel. The two 
ladies being in their state-rooms unaware of what had 
transpired, Captain Snook went to his wife's room and 
told her that they were prisoners ; whereupon that lady 
hastened to Miss Estudillo's room and informed her, in 
tears, that they had been captured. The officer in com- 
mand told Captain Snook that his presence was required 
on board the frigate " United States," and that his orders 
from the commodore were that no one should go ashore ; 
that all on board were prisoners of war, ladies included. 
Captain Snook then had an interview with the commo- 
dore, and coming aboard his own vessel, he found his 
wife very much agitated and frightened. She presently 
prevailed upon the captain to return and request permis- 



156 THE GOVERNOR EVACUATES MONTEREY. 

sion of the commodore for herself and Miss Estudillo 
to be put ashore. The request was granted, and the 
next morning early the two ladies were landed. During 
the night Captain Snook had the oars of the boats muf- 
fled, and quietly landed nearly the whole cargo of the 
vessel, in order to save it for the c>wner, unknown, of 
course, to the American vessels of war. Early in the 
morning an officer from the " United States" came on 
board and took an inventorv of what remained of the 
cargo, which was very little. 

Soon after the vessels had anchored at Monterey, 
Commodore Jones sent an officer on shore to demand 
the surrender of the town. The authorities at Monte- 
rey had noticed the two vessels coming in under the 
English flag, which was presently replaced by the 
American, and also the return of the "Joven Guipuz- 
coana " with them, and their suspicions were aroused. 
They supposed that war had been declared between 
the United States and Mexico, and thought the vessels 
had probably come to take the town. Upon this, Gov- 
ernor Alvarado left Monterey for his rancho Alisal. 
twenty-six miles distant, accompanied by a body-guard 
of forty cavalrymen, not wishing to incur the humilia- 
tion of surrendering the town himself. In leaving, he 
instructed the comandante, Captain Mariano Silva, that 
if the surrender of the town was demanded to comply 
with the request, inasmuch as they had not force enough 
to successfully resist. When the officer who went on 
shore to demand the surrender found that the cjovernor 



TERRIFIED RESIDENTS TACIFIED. 1 57 

was not there, he was met by the comandante, to whom 
he deHvered the message, and who comphed. It was 
stipulated between them, as it was late in the day, the 
formal surrender should take place the next morning 
at nine o'clock. The following morning the officers, 
marines and sailors were landed in large force and pro- 
ceeded, a portion to the fort, and a portion to govern- 
ment headquarters. As they marched up from the land- 
ing, through the town, they made quite a display, with 
the American flag flying and the band playing the na- 
tional air. The native Californians resident in the town 
were horror-stricken, especially the officials and the 
women, the latter going about the streets or looking 
from their windows with their hair hanging loosely about 
them and tears streaming from their eyes, bewailing the 
loss of their country, the humiliation of their flag, and 
fearing that their lives and property might also be sac- 
rificed. The United States consul, T. O. Larkin, with 
David Spence and other prominent foreigners, sought 
to pacify them, assuring them that if the country was 
lost to them forever, they should be protected. 

Commodore Jones' force marched through the 
streets, and a manifesto was read at intervals declar- 
ing that as war existed between the United States 
and Mexico, he, as commander of all the American 
forces on the Pacific and representing the government 
of the United States in that quarter, had been ordered 
to take possession of the department of California ; and 
in doing so, his purpose was not to injure the peaceable 



158 NEWS THAT WAR HAD NOT BEEN DECLARED. 

inhabitants of the department; that he would give them 
every assurance that they should be protected in their 
lives and property ; and moreover, the laws of Mexico, 
under which they had lived, should continue in force; and 
those officials who might wish to continue in their posi- 
tions and administer the laws honestly and justly, were 
at liberty to do so. On reaching the government head- 
quarters the formal surrender took place, and the United 
States flag was raised. 

The United States consul and other prominent Amer- 
icans at Monterey had received from Mexico newspa- 
papers and letters giving much later intelligence than 
Commodore Jones had received at Callao before his 
departure from that port, which showed that up to the 
time of their issue no war existed between the two 
countries. 

After the town had been taken possession of, Com- 
modore Jones examined these letters and papers giving 
the latest intelligence, and, on doing so, became con- 
vinced that war had not been declared, and saw that his 
action in the premises had been, to say the least, prema- 
ture. Accordingly, he determined to surrender the place 
to the authorities of the department and leave them in 
possession, as before. He therefore sent an officer to the 
comandante, Don Mariano Silva, to say he was satisfied 
from the facts he had collected from the American consul 
and other American residents at Monterey that he ought 
to surrender the place to the Mexican authorities, and 
would formally do so on the following day at a certain hour. 



jMONTekev restored to the MEXICANS. 159 

The next morning the troops were drawn up in front of 
the government headquarters and at the fort. At a si^^- 
nal,.the American flag was hauled down and the Mexican 
flag raised at both points. A salute was then fired from 
the two vessels in honor of the Mexican flag, and this 
was responded to by a salute from the fort. All the 
courtesies due from one nation to another were shown; 
and the town of Monterey was fully restored to the pos- 
session and power of its former possessors, twenty-four 
hours after it was taken from them. The commodore 
and officers, some twelve or fifteen, in full uniform, then 
called on the government officers, to pay their respects ; 
and the war was at an end. I n return, the officials called 
on the commodore and his officers on the flag-ship, and 
were warmly welcomed, entertained, and honored with a 
salute befitting their rank. The Mexican bark was also 
released and permitted to go on her business unmo- 
lested. 

About four or five days after these exciting events 
I reached Monterey on the "Don Quixote." Shortly 
after, Captain Paty and myself called on Commodore 
Jones on board his vessel, and were immediately made 
to feel at ease in his company. He impressed as a man 
of decided ability, and withal social and genial. "VVe 
listened with great interest and admiration to his ac- 
count of his movements at Monterey and his reasons 
therefor, which he gave us in full. He said he had 
been instructed by the government to keep a close 
watch upon the movements of the British squadron in 
the Pacific, and on learning at Callao that their vessels 



l6o AN EXPLANATION BY COMMODORE JONES. 

were about to leave, thoucrh he did not know for what des- 
tination, thinking the objective point might be Monte- 
rey, he started a little in advance. He reached that 
place without seeing them. Believing that the war 
which seemed imminent between the United States and 
Mexico had already commenced, he took possession of 
the place, being determined to anticipate the British in 
case they had any design of doing the same thing. 
As he proceeded in his narrative, he warmed up with 
enthusiasm, and declared what he had done was in per- 
fect good faith. Although he had no positive instructions 
to take Monterey, what he had done was in accordance 
with the general instructions of the government not to 
be outdone by the British. Straightening himself up, 
as he went on in his narrative, he said : " Although I 
was doubtless hasty in my action, it was better to be a 
little too soon than an hour too late. The delay might 
have been fatal. I felt the immense responsibility rest- 
ing upon me. Had I arrived here and found the British 
flag floating over Monterey, it would have been no easy 
thing to displace it. In fact, to attempt to do so would 
have been equivalent to a declaration of war between 
the United States and Great Britain, and had I allowed 
the British to get the advantage of me in securing 
Monterey, I would have been disgraced forever." He 
said that when he came to anchor before Monterey he 
had springs placed upon the cable, so as to move the 
vessel round in case of necessity, but he was very happy 
that there had been no occasion to fire upon the town ; 
although, he added, that if any demonstration of hos- 



FIRST IIOISTINC, OF THE AMERICAN FLAc;. l6l 

tility or show of resistance had been made, he would 
have met it promptly, first notifying the United States 
consul to have the women and children removed, as he 
did not want to shed a drop of their blood, and then, if 
necessary, he would have opened upon the fort and bat- 
tered it to pieces. 

The commodore went on to say that he was very 
favorably impressed with California; that this was his 
first visit, but he was familiar with it from readinof and 
Other information he had gathered about it ; that he 
liked the climate and the appearance of the countrv, 
and that it was destined to be of great importance, and 
that it must belong to the United States. He dwelt at 
length upon the importance of our government getting 
possession of it, and not letting the British do so in ad- 
vance of us. He said there was no other nation to 
fear in this connection, and that he and all his predeces- 
sors here had been charo-ed to be alwavs on the watch 
for the British fleet in these waters, and that doubtless 
his successors would be likewise instructed. 

The commodore in his conversation with us ex- 
pressed a considerable degree of pride at having been 
the first to raise the American flaof on the soil of Cali- 
fornia, and seemed to regard this movement, although 
so briefly terminated, as having given us the first right 
in the future, and to have established a priority of claim 
on the part of the United States to the possession of 
the country when it should pass from the control of 
Mexico. , 

// 



CHAPTER XXII. 

Stay at Monterey — A Musical Treat — A Present of Wine to the Naval Officers — 
A Consular Entertainment at Monterey — The Enjoyment General — Commo- 
dore Jones the Right Man in the Right Place — His Popularity — Leniency 
Improperly Bestowed — Base Ingratitude — East Trip of the Frigate " United 
States" to Honolulu and Back — A Family Party A'isits the Ship " Cyane " 
An Agreealile Surprise— Hearty Congratulations — An Enjoyable Feast — 
Commodore Jones as a Hunter of Small dame — The "Cyane" leaves for 
Monterey. 

We remained in the harbor of Monterey with the 
" Don Quixote" about a week, and made frequent visits 
to the flag-ship, and had many pleasant interviews with 
the commodore and his officers. It was years since I 
had heard any good music, and we enjoyed hearing the 
fine band play at sunset on the quarter-deck of the 
frigate. Captain Paty and myself sent a little present 
of fine California wine to the commodore and Captain 
Armstrong, which we had procured from the vineyard 
of Don Louis Yione at Los Ano^eles. It was hio^hlv 
appreciated by the recipients. 

While we were at Monterey, an elegant entertain- 
ment was given by the United States consul and other 
American residents, at the government house, to the 
commodore and the officers of the vessels. Captain 
Paty and myself were among the guests. The music, 
dancinof and feastins: lasted till a late hour. The com- 
modore had sent messaofes to Governor Alvarado at 
his rancho to come in and see him ; that he was a o-en- 



ALVARADO FAILS TO MEET THE COMMODORE. I 6 



3 



tleman whose acquaintance he was desirous of mak- 
ing ; that he would be most happy to entertain him 
aboard his vessel. Alvarado replied courteously, declin- 
ing the invitation, saying that while he was still gover- 
nor of California, he might, by such a visit, in some 
way compromise himself, or the commodore in his 
subsequent intercourse with Micheltorena, the newly 
appointed governor, who w'as at Los Angeles on his way 
to the seat of government ; and said that he referred all 
matters concerning the recent taking of Monterey to him. 

Commodore Jones was much respected by his offi- 
cers and also very popular with them. During my 
visits to the vessel, I got the impression from what I 
heard that Commodore Jones was especially selected 
for service in the Pacific Ocean to watch and counter- 
act any movements that might be made toward the ac- 
quirement of California by any government other than 
our own ; not only because of his superiority as a 
naval commander, but on account of his intelligence, 
sagacity, diplomatic talent and courage ; these qualities 
rendering him peculiarly fitted for an undertaking re- 
quiring delicacy and tact in its management. 

Had Alvarado known of the coming of Jones be- 
forehand, he would have made preparations to defend 
Monterey and sink some or all of the fleet, by firing 
from the castle ; as was done on a former occasion, in 
1818, when two insurgent vessels, manned by Spaniards 
from South America, without any government authority 
came into the harbor of Monterey with the intention 



164. INSURGENT SPANIARDS IN 1818. 

of capturing the town ; and one of them, the " Negra," 
was sunk by guns fired from the fort. As she was 
going down, those on board made signs and shouted to 
those on shore to have mercy on them, and stop firing. 
Captain Gomez, commanding the artillery, ordered the 
firing to cease. The men from the sinking vessel, and 
those from the other one also, then all came ashore in 
their boats; and instead of being grateful for the kind- 
ness shown them in sparing their lives, they marched 
up with their arms, overpowered the governor and his 
forces and took possession of the town. The governor, 
Don Pablo Vicente de Sola, with the other officers of 
the government and the garrison and the families living 
in that vicinity, had to take flight into the country. The 
enemy burned the town and the garrison buildings, and 
then went away. 

We departed from Monterey In the " Don Quixote,'' 
leaving the two United States vessels, and proceeded to 
Yerba Buena. During the stay of the " Don Quixote," 
lasting several weeks, Commodore Jones arrived in the 
sloop-of-war " Cyane," which was made flag-ship before 
leaving Monterey, the frigate " United States " having 
been sent to Honolulu for naval stores, that place being 
the depot for provisions, etc., of the Pacific squadron. 
She made the trip from Monterey to Honolulu and back 
in twenty-nine days, the quickest ever known at that 
time, and I don't think it has been beaten since by any 
sailing vessel. This included four days stopping at 
Honolulu to take in stores. Captain Eliab Grimes was 



THE FLAG-SHIP GOES TO HONOLULU. 1 65 

on board of her on her voyage out from Monterey as 
the guest of Captain Armstrong. She made the run to 
Honolulu in ten days. Captain Grimes said she might 
have performed it in eight days, but it was always their 
habit to shorten sail at evening and proceed under less 
canvas during the night. He tried to persuade them to 
keep on full sail during the night, as well as the day, but 
Captain Armstrong could not be induced to alter the cus- 
tom; so the voyage was longer than it otherwise need 
have been. 

The " Cyane " lay at Saucelito during her stay here, 
and the commodore visited Yerba Buena. I was very 
busy arranging for my business and saw but little of him 
at that time. Spear saw him frequently, and both he 
and Richardson spoke in high terms of the commodore 
as a well-informed man. 

In January, 1843, Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo, ac- 
companied by his wife and his daughters, Doiia Con- 
cepcion and Dofia Maria Jesus (the latter of whom a 
few months before had been captured at Monterey by 
Commodore Jones, as already described), visited Cap- 
tain Richardson's family at Saucelito, Mrs. Richard- 
son and Mrs. Estudillo being sisters. During this visit 
Captain Richardson and his wife and daughter and the 
Estudillo family were invited by Commodore Jones to a 
little party on board the " Cyane." As they passed over 
the gangway of the vessel the commodore and his offi- 
cers stood there to receive them, and showed the greatest 
warmth and courtesy toward them. Captain Richard- 



l66 DANCING PARTY ON THE " CYANE." 

son introduced Don Jose as the father of the young 
lady who a few months before had been. captured by the 
commodore at Monterey. "What ! " exclaimed the com- 
modore ; " is this the father of the fair captive who, un- 
der the rules of war, I was compelled to make prisoner 
for a time ? " and at the same moment took Estudillq 
warmly by the hand, threw his arms around him and 
embraced him heartily, as was the fashion of the Cali- 
fornians. x^fter all the introductions were made, and 
affable greetings extended, the commodore showed the 
highest gallantry by remarking that the only thing he 
regretted was having to surrender Monterey after haY- 
ing taken it. They had a delightful entertainment, 
dancing until late in the evening, the ladies above men- 
tioned being present. 

On this occasion tlie commodore showed great at- 
tention and politeness to Don Jose, and was exceed- 
ingly affable to the ladies, doing everything in his power 
to make their visit agreeable, and setting before them 
a very handsome dinner. During the dinner the com- 
modore carved with difficulty, one of his hands being 
distorted from a wound received durinif an enofaeement 
between the vessel on which he was a midshipman and 
a vessel of the enemy, during the war of 1812 with 
England. He excused himself for his want of skill in 
carving, explaining the cause of the difficulty. A num- 
ber of the officers on board the " Cyane " spoke the 
Spanish language fluently, which added to the interest 
of the festivity. 



THE FLEET LEAVES FOR SAN PEDRO. 1 67 

During the stay of the vessel in the bay the com- 
modore's habit was to go on shore in the morning and 
hunt for small game, sport he greatly enjoyed. He would 
frequently lunch with Captain Richardson on shore, and 
there he met the Estudillo family. The "Cyane" left 
here and went down to Monterey about the time the 
"United States " was expected back. On the arrival 
there of the latter vessel she was made the flag-ship 
again, and both ships left for San Pedro. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

Commodore Jones and Officers make a ^'isit to Governor Micheltorena at Los 
Angeles — A Talk about the Capture of Monterey — An Amicable Under- 
standing Arrived at — A Grand Banquet Succeeds — The Officers, by Invita- 
tion, call on Don Louis Vigne — They Inspect his Cellars, Vineyards, and 
Sample his Wine — They are Presented with Several Barrels of the Same — 
Nativity of Don Louis — A Pioneer, and the Most Noted Mticulturist — The 
First to Raise Oranges in Los Angeles — Devoted to His Business — Extent of 
his Vineyards Nine Vears after — His Predictions of California becoming a 
Wine-producing Country — Don Louis as an Old Man — A Pride to the State, 
Generous to the Poor, and Liked by Every One — Impossible to Bestow too 
much Praise on his Memory. 

Commodore Jones called on Micheltorena at Los 
Angeles, with his suite of officers, in full uniform, and 
the commodore and the new governor had a long con- 
ference in regard to the taking of Monterey, lasting 
several days. The explanations of the former were 
politely received by the latter and a cordial understand- 
ing arrived at between the two. 

During his stay there a banquet was given to Com- 
modore Jones and his officers by Micheltorena, wind- 
ing up with a grand ball. Mr. Henry Melius was pres- 
ent, and has informed me it was a brilliant affair. All 
the wealth and beauty of Los Angeles and surrounding 
country were present. The^-commodore and his of- 
ficers expressed themselveS'^as highly delighted. They 
also spoke flatteringly of Los Angeles and its neighbor- 
hood, calling it the Eden— ef-4ht^ earth. They were 
charmed with the vineyards and orchards, with the 



AN ENLIGHTENED PIONEER. ■^'^^\ 1 69 

/ I 

orange groves, seeing the golden fruit hanging oxi the 
trees in the month of January. The most extensive 
cultivator at that time (1843) was Don totJis Vigne, 
who invited them to his place and entertained them. 
They were delighted with his California wines, of differ- 
ent vintages, some as much as eight or ten years old, of 
fine quality. They were interested in going through 
his cellars, where the wines of different years were stored 
in large quantities in pipes. Vigne presented the 
commodore and the officers with several barrels of this 
choice wine, which were gratefully accepted. He re- 
marked that he desired them to preserve some of it to 
take to Washington to give to the President of the 
United States, that he might know what excellent wine 
was produced in California. 

Don Louis was a Frenchman, who came to Mon- 
terey in the bark "Louisa" with me in 1831 from Bos- 
ton, touching at Honolulu and Sitka. From Monterey 
he went to San Pedro, shortly afterward established 
himself at Los Angeles, and before long had the 
largest vineyard in California. At that early day he 
imported cuttings of different varieties of grapes, in 
small quantities, which were put up with great care 
and sent from P>ance to Boston ; thence they came 
out in the vessels trading on this coast, to be experi- 
mented with in wine producing. He took great pride 
in the business. I regard him as the pioneer not only 
in wine making, but in the orange cultivation, he being 
the first man to raise oranges in Los Angeles and the 



I/O AN ENLIGHTENED PIONEER. 

first to establish a vineyard of any pretension. In 1833 
I called to see him at his house and found him well 
established. My old friend was overjoyed to see me 
and received me most hospitably ; I remained two or 
three days with him. I was a boy at that time, and 
he said to me most warmly, "William, I only regret 
that I am not of your age. With my knowledge of 
vine and orange cultivation and of the soil and climate 
of California, I forsee that these two are to have a 
great future ; this is just the place to grow them to per- 
fection." He was then about fiftv years old, full 
of zeal and enterprise. He was one of the most 
valuable men who ever came to California, and the 
father of the wine industry here. He had an intelli- 
gent appreciation of the extent and importance of this 
interest in the future. In 184.1, nine years afterward, 
I again called to see him. He asked me if I remem- 
bered what he had said to me when I was last there» 
about the California wine, its iniportance and value, and 
remarked that he would now prove to me that his pre- 
dictions were correct, and would show me what he could 
do for California. He then took me and a friend who 
was with me into his cellar and showed us the different 
vintages stored there, and brought out several bottles 
of his old wine, which were tested and commended- 
He said he had written home to France representing 
the advantages of California for wine making, tell- 
ing them that he believed the day would come when 
California would rival "la belle France" in wine pro- 
ducing of all varieties, not only in quantity, but in 



AN ENLIGHTENED PIONEER. I71 

quality, not even excepting champagne ; and that he had 
also induced sev^eral of his relations and a number of his 
more intellisfent countrymen to come to California to 
settle near Los Angeles, and engage in the business. 
He also manufactured aguardiente in considerable 
quantities, as did other wine producers. This liquor 
was considered by the old settlers as a superior article 
when three or four years old. Beyond that, it still 
further improved in quality, being of a finer flavor, en- 
tirely pure, and was regarded as a wholesome drink. 
It was made from the old Mission grapes. When first 
produced it was clear and colorless, like gin or alcohol, 
but gradually assumed a slight tint with age, and when 
six, eight or ten years old, became of fine amber color, 
and was then a rich, oily liquor, very palatable. 

The merchants bought the aguardiente and also 
the wines, in considerable lots, directly from the vine- 
yards, and sold it to their customers at Monterey, 
Yerba Buena, and other points along the coast. At 
that time I was familiar with wines of different kinds, 
and was regarded as an expert in determining their 
quality and value, and I considered the aguardiente as 
vastly superior to the brandy made in those days. 
Some of it is probably still kept at Los Angeles. 

Don Louis was trulv one of the most enh^ht- 
ened pioneers of the coast. In May, 1852, I saw him 
again for the last time, visiting him at his home, accom- 
panied by John H. Saunders, who recently died at 
San Rafael. Vigne was then quite old, but his intellect 
was unimpaired. The Don was full of the history of 



172 DON LOUIS VIGNE. 

wine matters, and kept up a constant stream of conver- 
sation, proud of his success, and overflowing with bril- 
liant anticipations of the future of this interest in 
which he was so wrapped up, as bearing upon the pros- 
perity of the state and its commercial importance. 
His vineyard was entered by an immense gate, just 
outside of which there was a splendid sycamore tree 
of great age. From this circumstance Vigne was 
known as Don Louis del Aliso, aliso being the Spanish 
word for sycamore. He greatly admired the huge tree 
and was proud of it and of being called by that name, 
by which he was more familiarly known. His choice 
old wine could be drank with impunity. It had an 
agreeable, exhilarating and strengthening effect, but no 
unpleasant after-consequences. He was known by 
everybody in the vicinity of Los Angeles, and ap- 
preciated. He was generous to the poor ; in their 
distress he helped them in bread, money and wine. 
When they came to him he advised the mothers of 
young children to give them a little wine as an in- 
ternal antiseptic, so that they might grow up strong, as 
in his own country ; or on the same principle, perhaps, 
that doctors prescribe whisky and milk, as a cure for 
diphtheria. » 

I am sure that all of the residents of California 
who were living here at the time of Don Louis will 
endorse what I have said in regard to him and his 
influence upon the prosperity of the country. It is to be 
hoped that historians will do justice to his character, 
his labors and foresiofht. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

A Few Names of the Earliest Comers to California — A Homely Husband and 
Handsome Wife — A Lady with Long and Beautiful Hair — Race Improvement 
by Inter-marriage— Captain Thomas M. Robbins and His Cook — J. J. 
Warner — He becomes a Prominent Man in the State. 

Some of the foreicrners at Santa Barbara dated their 
residence at that place back to 1830 and 1831. Among 
them were William G. Dana, a nephew of my father ; 
Daniel Hill, Francis Branch and A. B. Thompson, who 
were all natives of Massachusetts. They were engaged 
in merchandising and stock-raising. Isaac Sparks and 
George Nidever were natives of Kentucky, and otter- 
hunters by profession. Lewis T. Burton was also an 
otter-hunter, who left an only son a considerable fortune 
in land. Michael Burke was a native of Ireland, and 
Robert Elwell was a native of Boston. The latter was 
a comical character, with a peculiar, sharp countenance^ 
a prominent nose, and a queer look. He had consider- 
able native wit, and made fun for others. He himself was 
made fun of by the captains, supercargoes and merchants 
who came to the place ; and was altogether of use as a 
clown. He married a daughter of Don Juan Sanchez, a 
prominent ranchero. 

After 1833, Dr. Nicholas A. Den, a native of 
Ireland, came to Santa Barbara and practiced his pro- 
fession there. He married a daughter of Daniel Hill, 
who had married into the Ortega family. Dr. Den 



174 DINING AGAIN AT SANTA BARBARA, 

was as homely a man as I ever saw. His wife is 
still living and preserves her beauty. Her hair was 
remarkable in its color of melchocJia, or pulled 
candy made from molasses. It was very luxuriant, 
falling profusely over her shoulders nearly to her 
feet. Dr. Den was an intelligent, educated and accom- 
plished gentleman, and much liked. He has a brother, 
a physician, now living at Los Angeles, and commonly 
known in Southern California as Don Ricardo, a man of 
learning, and universally respected. 

At Santa Barbara also was captain Thomas W. Rob- 
bins, formerly a shipmaster, a Boston man, married to 
adauofhter of Don Carlos Carillo. When I was there in 
1842 he kept a store of general merchandise, and which 
was a kind of headquarters for the captains and super- 
cargoes of vessels lying in port. He was generous and 
liked by everybody. At his table, as well as at Mrs. 
Wilson's, the captains and supercargoes of vessels were 
always welcome. 

Captain Paty and myself were dining with him in 
1842, and he told us of an old Indian cook who had 
been with him many years, and had been carefully in- 
structed, as, indeed, his good dinners testified. He said 
that although the man was faithful and quiet, and attended 
well to his duties, he was obliged about every six months 
to give him a tremendous whipping ; only because at 
those times the Indian came and begged his master 
to give him a good thrashing, saying it was necessary, 
to make him a good cook for the next six months. 



THE REASON THE CO'OKING WAS GOOD. I 75 

Robbins felt forced to comply, much against his will, for 
he was a kind-hearted man and treated his servants well ; 
but the Indian assured him it must be done, otherwise 
he would become lazy and negligent. 

Captain Robbins had before mentioned this several 
times, and on this occasion, in order to fortify his state- 
ment, while we were busy with our dinner and talking 
and lauQfhine with the wife of our host and their beau- 
tiful children, he whispered to a servant in the dining- 
room to call the old Indian, Presently, in he came, a 
stalwart man, weighing probably 200 pounds, strong 
and well preserved, with rather a pleasing cast of coun- 
tenance, and polite in his manners, the result of his good 
, training in the family. Captain Robbins addressed him 
in Spanish, saying, " I have said to my guests that I 
have had to whip you soundly, against my will, about 
once in six months, because you desired it and persisted 
in having it done, to make you a good cook for the next 
half year. Is it so ? " The old Indian looked sharply 
at Captain Paty and myself and answered, " £s verdad, 
seiiores.'' (" It is true, sirs.") A roar of laughter fol- 
lowed from all present, as the cook retreated to the 
kitchen, laughing heartily himself. 

In my father-in-law's family at San Leandro there 
was an Indian by the name of Juan Jose, now about 
seventy years of age, well preserved and strong, who was 
taken when a child, reared and always retained by them. 
He was usually obedient and tractable, but occasionally 
would become lazy and insolent, when it was found 



176 A PATRIARCH. 

necessary to give him a good whipping ; which was done 
(not by his own request, however) ; whereupon he be- 
came civil and obedient and attended faithfully to his 
duties. The effect of this management has always 
been apparent ; goodness, as it were, being whipped 
into him. 

I knew Don Teodoro Arrelanes in Santa Barbara. 
He was a thorough ranchero. He was then perhaps 
fifty-five years of age, six feet in height, very straight, 
weighing 220 pounds; was genial and polite; had a 
numerous family, and owned extensive tracts of land, 
cornprising many leagues ; among them the Rancho 
Guadalupe, near Santa Maria, with as many as 
20,000 cattle and thousands of horses. Among the 
rancheros he was looked upon as a kind of chief 
in that portion of country, by reason of his good 
judgment and knowledge of matters pertaining to 
ranchos. On one occasion I said to him : " Don 
Teodoro, how is it you have accumulated so much 
wealth — such an immense number of cattle and 
horses ? " He smilingly answered : " The labor is to get 
the first 2000, and after that they increase very fast, 
under ordinary care and management. They require 
a great deal of care and thought, to make the best 
rodeo cattle and to prevent them from running entirely 
wild, and to make the horses useful for their purpose." 
Sometimes cattle escaped from the ranchos to the 
mountains, forgot their former training, and became 
entirely wild ; when vaqueros would go out into the 



CALIFORNIA CHILDREN. 177 

mountains, lasso them, and bring them, tied to the 
cabestros, to be slaughtered or tamed. 

John J. Warner, a native of Connecticut, came to 
California in 1831. He owned the Rancho Agua Cal- 
iente in .San Diego county, containing eleven leagues. 
He resided there and also at Los Angeles ; was some- 
what a literary man, and he spoke Spanish fluentlv. 
He has represented Los Angeles and San Diego coun- 
ties in the State Legislature. The Californians valued 
his friendship, and also his good counsel whenever they 
were in need of advice. He is now over seventy years 
of age and well preserved. 

The intermarriage of the foreigners in early times 
with the Californians produced a fine race of children, 
who partook of the characteristics of both parents. 
The stock, as usual, was improved by the mingling of 
the different nationalities. 

12 



CHAPTER XXV. 

A Revolution — General Castro joins Alvarado — Troops at their Old Tricks — A 
Skirmish and Retreat — Los Angeles taken by Alvarado — A Division of Senti- 
ment — The Leaders of the Separate Columns — The People Opposed to Strife 
— Alvarado its Moving Cause — Why and Where he found his Allies — Alvarado 
resorts to Impressment — General Vallejo Non-committal — Micheltorena is 
joined by General Sutter with Fifty or Sixty Riflemen — The Author Custo- 
dian of Alexander Bell's Treasure and Goods — Cannonading Heard — A 
Battle Ensues — Apprehension of the People for the Safety of Relatives — 
Anguish of the Women — A Long but Bloodless Battle — Micheltorena Ca- 
pitulates and Agrees to Leave the Country. 

The revolution against Micheltorena by Alvarado 
and Castro, in 1844, was not on account of bad govern- 
ment or misrule by Micheltorena, or from a dislike of 
him by the responsible men of the country. The 
wealthy ranch-owners and others were not in favor of 
revolution. They desired peace, naturally, as they had 
everything to lose by conflict and nothing to gain. It 
originated as much from the restless nature of Alvarado 
and his ambition to rule, as anything else. Having 
when young been connected with public affairs, and after- 
ward governor of the department, he could not rest 
quietly and see the government administered by any- 
body else. 

General Castro, who had been displaced when 
Micheltorena came into power, was ambitious, and nat- 
urally joined with Alvarado ; and the two, having been 
intimately connected for a long time, stirred up the peo- 
ple to revolutionize. There was also a good deal of 



THE BATTLE OF SALINAS. 1 79 

feeling by many against the troops who came into 
the country with Micheltorena, especially by the resi- 
dents of Monterey, where the troops were quartered ; 
they alleging that the soldiers stole their chickens and 
committed other small depredations. They might have 
done something^ worse, though there is no evidence of it. 

Alvarado and Castro collected several hundred men 
about the bay of San Francisco and got them together 
on the Salinas plains, mounted, and armed with all kinds 
of weapons such as they could pick up, most of their 
arms being of no great efficiency. They had also a few 
old cannons. At this place they were met by Michel- 
torena and his force from Monterey, and a skirmish 
ensued. The insurgents retreated to the Laguna San 
Antonio, followed by Micheltorena. They remained 
there several days, during which some firing and maneu- 
vering took place ; but nobody was killed. 

From that point, Alvarado and Castro with their 
troops retreated, and commenced a march south for the 
purpose of visiting the different ranchos, creating sym- 
pathy for their cause and obtaining recruits, horses and 
provisions. 

Alvarado had great power of speech and argument. 
He was eloquent in behalf of his movement, and 
though the people generally disliked it, he induced 
some of the rancheros to join him. Many of the 
younger men were taken against their will as recruits 
for his army. He also secured a large number of horses, 
some of which were given to him voluntarily, and others 
were taken by force. 



l8o LOS ANGELES TAKEN BY ALVARADO. 

I was at that time in Los Angeles. It was known 
by the people there that a revolution prevailed at the 
north. But the soldiers at the barracks and the ranch- 
eros were loyal to the government. Alvarado know- 
ing this, prevented any mformation going ahead of 
him to notify the military of his coming. He reached 
the neighborhood of Los Angeles and went into the 
town quietly before daylight, and surprised the soldiers 
at quarters. Some resistance was made, two of the de- 
fenders being killed. The garrison was overpowered 
and obliged to yield the post, and a guard was placed 
over the captives. Alvarado took possession of the 
plaza, where the barracks were located, and also of the 
government offices, including those of the alcalde and 
prefect. The officers who resisted were made prisoners. 
He then set his wits to work to bring the people under 
his influence, and immediately had a conference with 
Don Pio Pico, a very wealthy ranchero in that place, a 
man of large influence, brother of Don Andres Pico, 
also wealthy, popular and influential ; the two owning 
sixty or seventy leagues of land in what are now Los 
Angeles and San Diegfo counties. This interview was 
followed by several others. Alvarado used his great 
powers of persuasion with Don Pio to induce him to 
join his cause and pursuade the people of the surround- 
ing neighborhood to come into the movement, and con- 
tribute hundreds of their fine horses to the army. Among 
other inducements by him, he promised Pio Pico the 
governorship of the department, if Micheltorena should 



THE PICO BROTHERS LED INTO REBELLION. 151 

be deposed. Being at that time president of the junta 
departmental, he was assured the place was lawfully his; 
and' he was finally so influenced that he promised to 
aid Alvarado to the extent of his power. Don Andres 
Pico was also prevailed upon to join the movement. 
Through the activity and great influence of the 
Pico brothers, several hundred new recruits were col- 
lected, and added to Alvarado's army. Hundreds and 
hundreds of the finest of saddle horses were contributed 
also. I saw capone7'a after caponeT-a, day after day, 
brought to the military headquarters, at the town plaza, 
from the neisfhborinof ranchos. Alvarado and Castro 
were busy in receiving recruits, distributing them and 
the horses to the different commands, and reorganizing 
the forces for the battle which was expected to take 
place. The work continued actively for several weeks. 
At that time military affairs took precedence of every- 
thing else in Los Angeles. 

Ever since the conflict between Carillo and Alva- 
rado in 1838, and even prior to that time, there had ex- 
isted a jealousy between the two sections of the country 
north and south, the northern portion of the people, 
say from San Luis Obispo north, being the Alvarado 
party ; and the southern portion, from Santa Barbara 
south, the Carillo and Pico party. The leaders in 
the north were Alvarado and General Jose Castro, but 
the master spirit was Alvarado. In the south the 
leaders were Don Jose Antonio Carillo and his brother 
Don Carlos, and the brothers Pico. 



I $2 THE CARILLOS INFLUENCED. 

In this outbreak, General Vallejo was considered 
non-committal, not taking active part, preferring to at- 
tend to his own affairs. Alvarado, thus engaged, feared 
the influence of Jose Antonio Carillo. After he had 
won over the Pico brothers, he approached him in the 
same way he had approached them, but found in him, 
as he had anticipated, more confirmed and strenuous 
opposition to his plans, Carillo was superior to the 
Pico brothers in intellect, but Alvarado was superior to 
them all. He finally prevailed upon Don Jose An- 
tonio to give him some assistance. Jose Antonio's am- 
bition originally, in the revolution of 1838, was to make 
his brother Don Carlos governor ; to prove to Alva- 
rado and to his countrymen, as I frequently heard him 
say, that he himself was the brains of the department. 

After the skirmish near Salinas, Micheltorena was 
joined by Captain Sutter, with fifty or sixty riflemen, 
from the Sacramento valley, among them Dr. John 
Marsh, one of the first comers, P. B. Reading, and 
other early settlers, who probably had no particular 
preference one side or the other in the revolution. 
Their aim and desire was to secure laree grants of 
land, in addition to what they already possessed, and 
which they would have undoubtedly obtained as a 
reward for military services in defending the country 
had Micheltorena remained in power. Sutter kept also 
in the Sacramento valley 300 Indian riflemen, whom 
he had trained as soldiers, for his own defense. 



BATTLE NEAR LOS ANGELES. 1 83 

Micheltorena followed Alvarado southward ; but as 
the main portion of his troops was infantry, and his 
cannons had to be transported, his progress was neces- 
sarily slow. When Alvarado and his force left Los 
Angeles to meet Micheltorena, several of the American 
residents and other foreigners who had joined his army 
accompanied him ; among them Alexander Bell, a lead- 
ng merchant. He requested me to take charge of 
his store during his absence, and in case he should 
meet the fate of a soldier I should turn everything 
over to his widow. In leaving, he gave me the key of 
his safe, and said it contained considerable money. In 
those days there were no banks. Every merchant was 
his own banker. Bell was considered as always havinga 
good supply of money on hand, and I felt a little ner- 
vous the first night ; as there were a good many doubt- 
ful characters about Los x^ngeles, I feared that some 
of them might break in, and take possession of the 
funds. I was not disturbed however. Perhaps Al- 
varado had taken all this class along with him as part 
of his army. 

In January, 1845, the two armies came together 
in the valley of San Fernando, one of the most beautiful 
portions of Los Angeles county. Alvarado had seven 
or eight hundred men, well mounted but poorly armed. 
About nine o'clock one clear morning, a day or two 
after the departure of the troops, the first cannonading 
was heard in Los Angeles, and we knew that the battle 
had commenced. Directly to the north was a high hill. 



184 MICHELTORENA CAPITULATES. 

As soon as the firing was heard, all the people remain- 
ing in the town — men, women and children, ran to the 
top of this hill. As the wind was blowing from the 
north, the firing was distinctly heard, five leagues away 
on the battlefield, throughout the day. All the busi- 
ness places in town were closed. 

The scene upon the hill was a remarkable one. 
Women and children with crosses in their hands, kneel- 
ing and praying to the Saints for the safety and protec- 
tion of their fathers, brothers, sons, husbands, lovers, 
cousins— that they might not be killed in the battle ; in- 
dffferent to their personal appearance, tears streaming 
from their eyes, and their hair blown about by the wind, 
which had increased to quite a breeze. Don Abel 
Stearns, myself and others tried to calm and pacify 
them, assuring them that there was probably no danger; 
somewhat against our convictions, it is true, judging 
from what we heard of the firing and from our knowl- 
edge of Micheltorena's disciplined force, his battery, 
and the riflemen he had with him. During the day 
the scene on the hill continued. The night that fol- 
lowed was a gloomy one, caused by the lamentations 
of the women and children. 

It afterward proved that our assurances to the 
women were correct ; for not a single person was killed 
in this remarkable battle, only a few horses being shot. 
The next day the strife ended ; Micheltorena capitu- 
lated, and agreed to leave the country with his troops, 
arms and followers. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

After the Battle — Inter-mingling of the Hostile Parties — The Author has another 
Interview with Captain Sutter— A Talk over Old Times— James McKinla)' 
becomes a Mediator between the Hostile Leaders — Condition of the Settle- 
ment — General Vallejo Supplanted as Commander-in-Chief l)y General 
Castro— Generous Forbearance of General Micheltorena— Reason why the 
Conflict was Bloodless — Don Pio Pico becomes Provisional Governor of the 
Department— The "Don (Quixote" Chartered as a Transport— Micheltorena 
and Troops Depart upon Her— The Author on Board as Supercargo— 
Micheltorena Talks about the Battle— His Appearance as a Soldier— His 
Accomplishments— Reflections on what has been Related — Alvarado as an 
Intriguer— The \'oyage to San Bias— Micheltorena Wishes to Amend Paty's 
Fortunes — The Governor's First Arrival in the Department— Diversions 
coming North from San Diego. 

On the day following the grand battle in San Fer- 
nando valley many of the prominent men from both 
armies arrived at Los Angeles, among them Captain 
Sutter. Dr. Marsh. Bidwell, Bell and others. Sutter 
and some of his friends came first to the headquarters 
of Don Abel Stearns, who received them kindly. They 
were so thickly covered with dust that one could hardly 
recognize them. I was glad to meet my old friend 
Captain Sutter, whom I had not seen for several years. 
That night he was the guest of William C. Flugge, 
a conspicuous German merchant of Los Angeles, who 
had lived at fort New Helvetia, and been connected 
with Sutter in business. I spent the evening there 
very pleasantly, talking over old times with Captain Sut- 
ter, and sipping some fine California wine ot Don Louis 
del Aliso's vintage till a late hour in the night. 



1 86 BENEVOLENCE OF MICHELTORENA. 

James McKinlay was present at the battle as 
a spectator, not taking an active part. Towards the 
close of the day he volunteered to Alvarado and Castro 
to act as meditator between them and Micheltorena 
and endeavor to bring about an agreement of the two 
armies. He was encouraged to do so; and upon his 
representations the conflict was terminated. 

During the settlement of the terms, before the 
capitulation, the insurgent Californians urged upon 
Micheltorena, as one of the conditions, that General 
Vallejo should be deposed as commander-in-chief, and 
General Castro appointed in his place. This was agreed 
to ; and from that time General Castro occupied that 
position. 

The capitulation of Micheltorena was not compul- 
sory, inasmuch as his force of skilled and disciplined 
soldiers, and their arms, equipments of every kind, and 
supply of ammunition, were altogether superior to those 
of Alvarado ; but it was the result wholly of Michelto- 
rena's good feeling toward the people of California, 
and which led him to refrain from injuring them, as he 
might easily have done, and to a serious extent. From 
my knowledge of him and my personal acquaintance 
with him, I regarded him as a humane man. The for- 
bearance he showed on this occasion in the face of great 
provocation, proves this to have been the case. He 
was not only a military man, but a statesman, and took 
a broad and comprehensive view of the whole matter. 
Captain Sutter, during the evening, in giving me an 



PIO PICO BECOMES GOVERNOR. 1 87 

account of the day's battle, said that Micheltorena had 
ordered his command not to injure the CaHfornians in 
the force opposed to him, but to fire over their heads, 
as he had no desire to kill them. This order was given 
to the other captains also. Sutter's men being sharp- 
shooters and skillful in the use of their rifles, might 
have done terrible execution, had they not been directed 
to the contrary. Moreover, the Americans who accom- 
panied Sutter had lived for many years among the CaH- 
fornians ; some had intermarried with them ; had become 
identified with them, and the natural sympathies of these 
men were, of course, not against them. 

Had Micheltorena conquered the CaHfornians in 
this conflict, and killed a number, it might have added 
to his military reputation, but it would have made him 
very unpopular with the people and embittered them 
against him, especially the families of those killed, and 
their friends. Thereafter his position as governor would 
not have been a pleasant or an easy one, for he would 
have been subjected to constant harassment from peo- 
ple opposed to him ; who would have considered that 
they had been greatly injured at his hands, and would 
finally have driven him away. 

A few days after the battle, Micheltorena moved 
his forces to Palos Verde, about four miles from San 
Pedro, where cur vessel, the " Don Quixote," then lay. 
Don Pio Pico became provisional governor of the 
department, after the capitulation, by virtue of his hold- 
ing the position of president of the junta departmental, 



1 88 MICHELTORENA DEFENDS HIS CONDUCT. 

and immediately entered into negotiations with Cap- 
tain Paty and myself to charter the " Don Quixote" 
to convey Micheltorena and his forces to Monterey, and 
thence to San Bias, taking in the remainder of the troops 
at Monterey. After several days' conference we came 
to an agreement. Pico chartered the vessel for that pur- 
pose for $1 i,ooo. While these negotiations were pend- 
ing, Captain Paty and myself called upon Micheltorena 
a number of times with reference to the transportation 
of the troops, the room required for their accommoda- 
tion, and other details. In about two weeks after the 
agreement was made the vessel was ready to receive 
the troops, and they embarked upon her. We had a 
pleasant trip of seven and a half days to Monterey. 
Micheltorena talked freely about the late battle. He 
said he was a friend of the Californians ; that he had 
been sent here to protect and not to destroy them ; 
that he thought they were a brave people, but they were 
ill prepared for a battle-field ; their cannons were of 
little account, their small arms still worse, and they could 
not procure others from any source, the government 
having possession of them all ; that they had done their 
best to defeat him, but that was an impossibility. He 
said his forces were drilled soldiers and well armed ; his 
officers educated military men; that he had eight or ten 
fine brass guns, four to eight-pounders, properly mounted, 
an inexhaustible supply of ammunition ; and that he 
could have made sad havoc among the opposing force ; 
but he gave orders to the artillerymen and soldiers to 



IMAGINARY GRIEVANCES. I 89 

shoot over the heads of the insur<xents and avoid killino- 
or wounding any; that he had been sent by the su- 
preme government of Mexico, as soldier, and governor 
of the department, and had endeavored to do his duty. 
Micheltorena stood nearly six feet in height, was 
straight, of handsome appearance, with a mihtary air 
and bearing. He spoke the F^rench language correctly 
and fluently, and his own language so finely that it was 
a pleasure to listen to him. He was a good diplomatist, 
as well as a good general, and was liked by the solid 
men of the department. He tried to serve the people 
well and to please them. Probably no trouble would 
have arisen had there been no Alvarado in the depart- 
ment, always restless, and ambitious to rule again, and 
always interfering with the rightful governor, and ex- 
citing other ex-officials to create an agitation, so they 
might be restored to their former positions, under a new 
administration. Alvarado and his party tried to arouse 
the sympathies of the rancheros, with whom Michel- 
torena was popular, and who loved order and peace, by 
alleging grievances suffered by the people under Michel- 
torena rule, little by little instilling dissatisfaction into 
the people's mind, as pretexts for revolt against the 
government. The grievances were mainly imaginary, 
for, as before remarked, the only tangible thing that 
could be complained of was the stealing of some chick- 
ens by soldiers, which certainly was rather a slender basis 
for rebellion. Of course Alvarado must offer some rea- 
sonable excuse. Although his own ambition was doubt- 



igO THE MEXICAN SOLDIERS SLANDERED. 

less the motive and propelling force in the movement, 
it would not have been politic for him to admit this ; nor 
would he have met with aid and encouragement on this 
o-round. He therefore made use of some trivial com- 
iDlaints against the Mexican soldiers, enlarging upon and 
exaggerating alleged offences, until the Mexicans were 
made to appear in the eyes of the people as a terrible 
set of scoundrels, whose presence was highly dangerous 
to the country, and whom it was necessary, for the pro- 
tection of the lives .and property of the people, to get 
rid of. 

This is my opinion of the matter, though I am 
aware that it differs from that of a few others. It is 
based upon my own observation and that of many others 
and my knowledge of Alvarado and his supporters. 

During the voyage to Monterey I observed the 
soldiers closely. Some of them were rather hard-look- 
ing, but the main body of them was quite the contrary, 
and whenever I passed near any of them they politely 
raised their hats, and saluted me with ''' Buenos diasT 
Their conduct during the voyage was creditable to them- 
selves and to the commanding general and his officers. 
It was a common remark among those belonging to our 
vessel, how well the troops behaved. Confined as they 
were for several days, had they been the villains repre- 
sented, it would have come out in some \vay during the 
voyage. General Micheltorena and Captain Paty were 
brother Masons, and they played chess every night until 
two or three o'clock in the morning. The former drank 



THE TROOPS TRANSPORTED TO SAN BLAS. I9I 

wine at meals, was an inveterate cigarito smoker, fond 
of talking, a graceful and entertaining conversationalist. 
He went to bed late, and took chocolate in bed in the 
mornino:. 

Captain Sutter spoke of Micheltorena as a soldier 
and gentleman of high character, and had great respect 
for him. He referred to his conduct and treatment of the 
Californians, and thought they were fortunate to be op- 
posed by so kind-hearted and humane a commander as 
Micheltorena. ■ 

At Monterey the " Don Quixote" received the por- 
tion of the army, one-quarter of his entire force of 600, 
which was stationed there during the campaign, and 
the families of the officers, as well as Mrs. General 
Micheltorena. She was a lady of refinement, and was 
much beloved by the California ladies. The vessel sailed 
for San Bias, after stopping a week at Monterey. Cap- 
tain Paty spoke in praise of the conduct of all on board, 
and particularly of his respect and liking for Mrs. Michel- 
torena. The governor said to Paty that he regretted 
that the captain was not amongst the many grantees to 
whom he had given land during his administration ; 
and would have been glad to have known that the cap- 
tain was provided for in this way. Expressing a 
partiality for California, he said it was only a question 
of time when the department would become great and 
wealthy. He doubted the ability of his own govern- 
ment to keep California as a part of the domain ot 
Mexico, on account of its geographical position ; its 



192 AMBITIOUS SPIRIT. 

great distance from the capital ; the difficulty and ex- 
pense of transporting troops so far, and maintaining 
them for its defense, together with the fact that the gov- 
ernment had no navy ; that the department in its defense- 
less condition was a constant source of trouble and anx- 
iety to Mexico, and he thought it was inevitably destined 
to pass out of her control. Captain Sutter and a num- 
ber of men under his command in the battle with Al- 
varado were granted large tracts of land in the Sacra- 
mento valley by Micheltorena ; among them Bidwell, 
Job Dye, Thomes, Toomes, Reading, Knight and Dr. 
John Marsh (the latter receiving a grant from Alvarado). 
After Micheltorena went away, Alvarado was made col- 
lector of the port under Governor Pico, and Don Man- 
uel Castro was made prefect. 

Alvarado had shown his ambitious spirit in 1836, and 
desire to rule, by creating, for imaginary grievances, a rev- 
olution against Governor Chico, who had been sent here 
by the supreme government of Mexico to take charge of 
department affairs and had administered the office of gov- 
ernor for a year or two. He succeeded in his designs, 
and sent Chico out of the country. As usual on such 
occasions, no blood was shed. Alvarado so directed the 
movements of his generals and maneuvered with so much 
tact that he succeeded in his efforts, without sacrificing 
any lives. Strange to say, upon this success of Alva- 
rado in revolutionizing the government, instead of an 
army being sent from Mexico by that government to 
capture him and take him there as a rebel against his 



MICHELTORENA WELCOMED IN 1842. 1 93 

country, he received from President Bustamente an ap- 
pointment as gov^ernor of California, upon his repre- 
senting the matter in a letter of marked ability to th it 
dignitary. 

When Micheltorena first arrived in the depart- 
ment in 1842, with his troops from Mexico, he landed 
at San Diego, where he was welcomed by the people 
from all the surrounding country. He had a reception 
lasting several days. As he was about leaving, he was 
waited upon by a deputation of citizens of Los Angeles 
who brought him an invitation from the prefect, Don 
Santiago Arguello, brother of ex-Governor Arguello, 
to attend the celebration of th^anniversary of the In- 
dependence of Mexico at tKat place on the sixteenth of 
September. He accefUed the invitation and subse- 
quently participated in the exercises of the day. On 
leaving San Diego to proceed north, he was accom- 
panied by a private party, going in the same direction, 
consisting of Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo, and his 
daughter ; who after became my wife ; and his brother 
and family. The journey occupied several days. The 
troops seemed well disciplined and orderly, and were ap- 
parently well bred men, quiet, polite and respectful in 
behavior. On reaching the Mission of San Juan 
Capistrano, the general halted with his forces for a rest 
of a day or two, during which he gave a grand out- 
door entertainment, or picnic, in a beautiful valley back 
of the Mission, to which all the people of the neigh- 
borhood were invited. He prevailed upon the Estu- 

13 



194 ENTHUSIASM AT LOS ANGELES. 

dillo party to stop and participate in the festivities. 
Among other diversions for the entertainment of the 
guests, the troops were drawn up in military order and 
went through their evolutions, the band played, and 
dancing was enjoyed. From there they continued on 
to Los Angeles, where the general was received with 
all the honors becoming his position and rank. The 
town was alive with enthusiasm. The day of the an- 
niversary was a gala day. Horse racing and bull- 
fighting were a part of the performance. The Califor- 
nians were dressed in their most costly habiliments, 
and their horses were superbly equipped. 



CHAPTER XXVU. 

Native Californians and Indians seldom Intermarried — The Padres at the Missions 
had a Care over Unfortunate Children — Settling Book Accounts* at Santa 
Anita — A Singular Vow — Fine Looking Native Californians — An Eccentric 
Octogenarian — He is the Head of a Numerous Family — Continued Enumera- 
tion of Noted Californians — A Skilled Markswoman — Limantour appears on 
the Scene — His Vessel goes Ashore near Point Reyes — His Silks find Ready 
Sale — A Cargo of Cattle Shipped to Marquesas and Society Islands, for Breed- 
ing Purposes — A Drunken Brawl — The old Mission of San Luis Rey and its 
Priests — Penance Performed in Fnod-mixing^ — A Sententious and Devout 
Octogenarian. 

The Califoriiiaas seldom intermarried with the 
Indians ; but they mixed with them to a certain ex- 
tent ; and in visiting the Missions, one would sometimes 
see fine looking children belonging to the Indian 
women, the offspring of their association with Cali- 
fornia men. Insome cases, these children of Indian 
women were deserted by their parents ; or their mothers 
were of so worthless a character that the children would 
have suffered in their hands and been neglected. They 
were then adopted into California families, christened 
with the name of the family, reared in a proper way by 
them, kindly treated, employed as nurses and domestics, 
and not regarded as common servants. In those days 
there were no foundling and orphan asylums, and the 
priests of the Missions felt it incumbent upon them to 
exercise an oversight of unfortunate children. Some- 
times they called the attention of the matrons of the 
families to them, and thus secured their adoption. 



196 MARQUESAS ISLANDS STOCKED WITH CATTLE. 

Children were also taken into families without any 
suggestion from the priest whatever. The Indian 
women of California were far better stock than those 
of Mexico, which accounts in a measure for their 
finer children. The climate may also have had an 
effect in the better development of Indian offspring in 
California, than in Mexico. 

The French ship" Leon," of about 700 tons, Cap- 
tain Bonnet, arrived atSaucelito in 1844, and thence took 
a cargo of young cattle to the Society and Marquesas 
Islands (which were under dominion of France) for 
breeding purposes — to stock the islands. There were 
two or three hundred head, most of them supplied by 
Captain Richardson. They were sold at six dollars 
apiece, which at that time was considered a good price, 
the regular price for heifers being three dollars. The 
same vessel returned the following year for another 
cargo of stock cattle, which was supplied by Captain 
Richardson, as before. 

In November, 1844, James McKinlay and my- 
self left San Diego and went overland to Santa Anita, a 
rancho situated a few miles north of the Mission San 
Gabriel, in a pretty valley about eight or nine miles 
easterly from Los Angeles. Hugo Reid, a Scotchman, 
lived at Santa Anita. He was a skillful accountant, and 
we brought along with us, on a pack animal, a large 
pile of account books belonging to the business of 
Paty, McKinlay & Fitch, who were about dissolving 
their partnership. We remained at Reid's house most 



A SCOTCHMAN AXD HIS INDIAN 15RIDE. 1 97 

of the months of November and December, adjusting 
and settling the books, with his aid. Reid had been 
disappointed in love in his own country ; his intended 
bride having thrown him over, so to speak ; and he left 
the country in disgust, vowing he should marry some 
one of the same name as she who had slighted him, 
even though an Indian woman. He came to California 
and fell in with a woman of pure Indian blood, named 
Victoria, the name of his former love, and married her. 
Upon our visit at Reid's house, we found that they 
they were living very happily together. They had one 
daughter, a beautiful girl of about eighteen, born sonie 
years before their marriage, of another English father. 
We were surprised and delighted with the excellence 
and neatness of the housekeeping of the Indian wife, 
which could not have been excelled. The beds which 
were furnished us to sleep in were exquisitely neat, with 
coverlids of satin, the sheets and pillow cases trimmed 
with lace and highly ornamented, as with the Calitor- 
nians. It was one of the striking peculiarities of Cali- 
fornians, that the chief expense of the household of the 
poorer families was lavished upon the bed ; and though 
the other furniture may have been meagre and other 
useful articles, such as knives and forks, scanty in 
supply, the bed was always excellent, and handsomely 
decorated ; sumptuously often, with those of more 
means. I never knew an exception in any household. 
This was an evidence of good taste and refinement 
and that they were peers of other civilized people. 



198 limantour's silks. 

In the fall of 1841 a French vessel laden with a 
valuable cargo, consisting of silks, brandy and other 
costly goods, commanded and owned by Limantour 
(afterward well known in California in connection with 
land matters), arrived on this coast, intending to come 
to Yerba Buena. In seeking to come into the bay of 
San Francisco, an inlet near Point Reyes was mistaken 
for the entrance to the harbor, and she went ashore. 
The motive for coming to Yerba Buena first, with an 
atter design of entering the goods at the custom house 
in Monterey and proceeding thence to Mazatlan, arose 
trom the fact that under the Mexican laws she could 
land goods at Mazatlan by showing papers representing 
that she had paid duties at Monterey; and by entering 
the goods there rather than at Mazatlan money could 
be saved on the duties, as the custom house officers 
were supposed to be less vigilant and less strict at the 
former place than at the latter. After the vessel went 
ashore, Limantour and his crew landed in boats near 
the Point, were furnished with horses by a ranchero in 
the neighborhood, and came over to Saucelito. 

Captain Richardson brought Limantour across the 
bay to Yerba Buena, and communicated the first news 
of the loss of the vessel. The " Don Quixote," Cap- 
tain Paty, being in port, after several days of negotia- 
tion between Paty and Limantour, the latter chartered 
the vessel for two or three thousand dollars to go up to 
the wreck and save what she could. The " Don Qui.x- 
ote " was a good sailer, easily handled, and Captain Paty 



CAPTAIN LIBBEY OF THK BARK " TASSO." 1 99 

took her quickly to the wreck and in two or three weeks 
was back in Yerba Bucna with nearly the whole car^^^o, 
most of it in fine condition. The weather had been 
good and the sea smooth, the southerly winds not hav- 
ing commenced, which favored the saving of the goods. 
After the " Don Quixote" returned she was ordered to 
Monterey to enter and pay duties, and she went accord- 
ingly. Limantour having lost his vessel, abandoned 
his trip to Mazatlan. His goods were disposed of to 
different vessels in port ; some to residents. 

Limantour established himself for a time at Yerba 
Buena, where he sold much of the merchandise, and 
then proceeded in a small schooner of forty or fitty tons 
down the coast and disposed of the remainder. Silk 
was largely used by the California ladies, the wealthier 
class dressing in that material. The rich men of the 
department were generous to their wives and daughters, 
never refusing them what they required in dry goods and 
other materials. Limantour's silks therefore found ready 
purchasers. The vessel subsequently became a total 
wreck and went to pieces where she struck. 

In the winter of 1544-45 a little incident occurred 
which produced some local excitement. Captain Lii> 
bey, of the bark " Tasso," had made several voyages 
to the coast and had become enamored of a young Cal- 
ifornia lady, who was also beloved by Chico Haro. Lib- 
bey was a good-natured man, but rather gross in his ap- 
pearance. His attentions were not reciprocated by the 
lady. The two rivals met one day in Vioget's saloon. 



200 ONE SOBER SANCHEZ. 

which was kept at that time by Juan Padillo, who suc- 
ceeded Hinckley as alcalde. They had imbibed rather 
freely of California aguardiente, which, when newly 
made, is very stimulating. Ramon Haro, brother of 
Chico, the brothers Francisco and Ysidro Sanchez, 
uncles of the two Haros, were present, and they all had 
drank more or less. A drunken row ensued, high words 
were used, and during the melee Captain Libbey was 
stabbed by Chico Haro. His brother Ramon was sup- 
posed to be an accomplice in the matter. The Sanchez 
brothers were also more or less connected with it. This 
occurrence is mentioned, because breaches of the 
peace were rare; disturbances of any kind being very 
unusual. 

I have before stated that the Californians, as a 
class, were a sober people, and drank little ; but the 
Sanchez family was an exception ; and though not hab- 
itual drunkards, they imbibed freely, one only of them, 
Don Jose de la Cruz Sanchez, being temperate. After 
the stabbing. Alcalde Hinckley did his duty promptly by 
arresting the two Haro brothers and Ysidro Sanchez. 
They were immediately tried, and Ysidro was released. 
The two Haros were found guilty and sentenced to the 
calaboose of the Pueblo San Jose for six months each. 
The whole matter occupied but a brief time, Hinckley 
showing great alacrity in the administration of the law- 
Libbey was not dangerously stabbed, and presently re- 
covered. 

I have already spoken of the fine appearance and 
development of many of the Californians ; and in this 



A WIRY OCTOGENARIAN. 20I 

connection shall mention General Vallejo's three broth- 
ers, all well proportioned men, of large stature ; one is 
still living, over eighty years of age. The Bernals, of 
San Jose ; the Berreyesas, of whom Don Jose Santos 
was particularly noble-looking and intelligent ; the halt- 
brothers of Governor Alvarado, at Monterey ; the Es- 
trados, the Soberanes family, the Monrass family, also 
of Monterey, were fine-looking men ; also the Santa 
Cruz Castros, three or four brothers ; Don Pablo de la 
Guerra's brothers, at Santa Barbara, they were his 
equals in good looks. 

Don Antonio Maria Lugo, of Los Angeles, was 
genial and witty, about eighty years of age, yet active 
and elastic, sitting on his horse as straight as an arrow, 
with his riata on the saddle, and as skillful in its use as 
any of his vaqueros. He was an eccentric old gentle- 
man. He had a wife aged twenty or twenty-two — his 
third or fourth. In 1846 I visited him. After cordially 
welcoming me, he introduced me to his wife, and in the 
same breath, and as I shook hands with her, said, in a 
joking way, with a cunning smile, ''No se enainore dc 
}ui joven esposa!' He had numbers of children, grand- 
children and great-grandchildren. Los Angeles was 
largely populated from his family. Referring to this 
circumstance, he said to me, quietly, " Don Guillermo, 
yo he cuiuplido mi deber a mi paiz!' 

At Los Angeles, also, were Don Tomas Yorba and 
his brothers, splendid looking, proud and dignified in 
address and manners, the cream of the country. The 



202 BEAUTIFUL WOMEN. 

wife of Don Tomas was Dona Vicenta, a graceful 
woman. The Sepulvedas, of Los AnQ^eles, also were 
fine physical specimens of the people. At San Diego, 
the Arguellos, sonsof the prefect, were finely formed men, 
well proportioned. Mrs. General Castro, of Monterey, 
Dona Modeste, was beautiful, queenly in her appear- 
ance and bearing. The wife of David Spence, sister of 
Prefect Estrada, was of medium size, with fine figure 
and beautiful, transparent complexion. The two sisters 
ot General Vallejo, one the widow of Captain Cooper, 
the other the wife of Jacob P. Leese, were also striking 
in beauty. I saw the former a year or two ago. She 
was then seventy years of age and well preserved. She 
had the appearance of a woman of fifty. The latter, 
Dofia Rosalia, was considered in former days an at- 
tractive woman, fascinating and vivacious. Mrs. Leese 
learned from her husband the use of the rifle, shooting 
with the greatest accuracy. Jacob P. Leese was among 
the sharpshooters in early Indian campaigns. On the 
Pourth of July celebration in 1839 I saw a specimen of 
her skill with the rifle, which was wonderful, shooting at 
bn-ds on the wing at a great distance, and killing them. 
When James McKinlay and myself were on our 
way from San Diego to Santa Anita, in November, 
1844, to visit Hugo Reid, we stopped a day and night 
at the Mission of San Luis Rey, where we met Father 
Jose Maria Salvidea, one of the last of the old priests 
from Spain still remaining in California. He was strong 
and healthy, although about eighty years of age. There 
was also a Mexican priest in charge of the Mission. 



AT THE MISSION OF SAN LUIS REV. 203 

Father Salvidea spent most of his time in walking back 
and forth in the spacious piazza of the Mission, with his 
prayer-book open in his hand, saying his prayers, hour 
after hour. I stood there for some time observing him, 
and every time he reached the end of the piazza he 
would give me a little side glance and nod of recogni- 
tion, and say " llamas si, sefwr'' a number of times in 
succession. Whenever he met me or anyone else 
through the day or evening he would make the same 
greeting, and never anything else. It anyone spoke 
to him he would listen attentively until the speaker had 
finished, apparently hearing and understanding every- 
thing that was said, but he made no reply other than 
the words I have quoted. During such interviews he 
would never look a person square in the face, but 
always gazed a little one side, round the corner, as it 
were. One might have supposed he was demented 
from this singular conduct. I inquired if this was so 
of Mr. McKinlay, who had known him for ten years or 
more, and he replied that he was always the same ; 
that his mind was perfectly clear and unimpaired ; that 
he was so absorbed in his devotions that he did not care 
to hold any intercourse with the world or converse on 
worldly topics, but gave his whole life and attention to 
religion. 

Father Salvidea was much beloved by the people, 
who looked upon him as a saint on earth, on account of 
the purity and excellence of his character. Among his 
eccentricities was his custom, at meals, of mixing dif- 



204 THE LAST OF THE SPANISH TRIESTS. 

ferent kinds of food thoroag-hly together on one plate, 
— meat, fish, vegetables, pie, pudding, sweet and sour — 
a little of everything. After they were thoroughly 
mingled, he would eat the preparation, instead of taking 
the different dishes separately, or in such combinations 
as were usual. This was accounted for by others as 
being a continual act of penance on his part. In other 
words, he did not care to enjoy his meals, and so made 
them distasteful; partaking of food merely to maintain 
existence. Whenever any ladies called on him, as they 
frequently did, to make some little present as a mark of 
their esteem, he never looked at them, but turned his 
face away, and extending his hand to one side received 
the gift, saying, " Vaiiios si, sefiora ; miichas gracias^ He 
never offered his hand in salutation to a lady. At times, 
in taking his walks for exercise in the vicinity of the 
Mission, the priest was seen to touch his head lightly on 
either side with a finger, throw his hands out with a 
quick, spasmodic motion, and snap his fingers; as if cast- 
ing out devils. On such occasions he was heard to ex- 
claim, " Vete, satanas /" — some improper thought, as he 
conceived, probably having entered his mind. 

Resuming my business in Yerba Buena in April, 
1845, I visited old custoniers around the bay, and was 
very successful in making collections prior to and 
during the killing season of that year; and I accu- 
mulated many hides, bags of tallow and furs, and had 
sold out the entire stock of goods by the time the " Don 
Ouixote" arrived ag^ain in x^uijust, after havinof safelv 
landed Micheltorena and his troops at San Bias. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

William Sturgis Hinckley Arrives in 1838 — He and Governor Alvarado become 
Good Friends — A (Jood Joke — Hinckley goes to Callao — He Returns as the 
owner of the Brig "Corsair"— He becomes a Permanent Resident, and Marries 
— Is Elected Alcalde of the San Francisco District — Makes a Capable and 
Popular Officer — He Constructs a Much-needed Bridge — ^A Survey of Verba 
Buena is Ordered and Streets laid out — Dies in June, 1846 — Francisco 
Guerrero becomes an Alcalde — Is afterwards Appointed Sub- Prefect— His 
Good Nature to Spear and the Author while under Arrest — ^His Efficiency and 
Impartiality as an Officer — He Secures a Land Grant at Half Moon Bay — Is 
one of the Real Founders of San Francisco — His Murder and the Reason for it. 

William Sturgis Hinckley joined Nathan Spear in 
the latter part of 1838,, in business at Verba Buena. 
Hinckley was a native of Hingham, Massachusetts, 
nephew of William Sturgis, of Boston. He was an 
educated man, of pleasant address. He had been 
some vears en^aeed in business in the Sandwich Islands, 
whence he came to this coast and traded awhile in 
vessels, until he established himself at Verba Buena. 
He was popular with both the foreign and the native 
population. When I arrived at Santa Barbara, in May, 
1838, Hinckley was there, and visited Alvarado's 
headquarters frequently, the two being intimate friends. 
Hinckley highly estimated Alvarado's talent and had 
a warm esteem for him, which feeling was reciprocated 
by the governor, who was in the habit of communica- 
ting his plans to Hinckley confidentially. Alvarado 
was much appreciated by intelligent foreigners, who 
recognized his general superiority, he being an excel- 



206 PRACTICAL JOKES IX 1 838. 

lent looking man, and possessing- great geniality and 
tact. 

At this time Carillo was in active opposition to 
the governor, seeking to oust him from his position. 
Hinckley greatly assisted Alvarado with advice and sug- 
gestions regarding his preparations to repress Carillo. 
One evening they were engaged in private conversa- 
tion in the governor's rooms, discussing their plans. 
Alvarado had an one-eyed secretary, who was a fellow 
capable and accomplished enough, with talent for writ- 
ing official dispatches and papers, and a useful man, 
but withal prying and inquisitive. Gas was not in use 
in those days, and sperm and adamantine candles were 
rare. Bullock and elk tallow candles were commonly 
used for lights, with old-fashioned snuffers, having a 
little square box attached to receive the wick when 
snuffed off The secretary, on this occasion, every few- 
minutes dodged into the room where Alvarado and 
Hinckley were engaged in conversation, ostensibly for 
for the purpose of snuffing the candles, showing thereby 
his politeness and attention, but really to catch the 
drift of the conversation and find out what was Pfoinor 
on. He was so assiduous in the performance of his 
self-imposed duty, that the two gentlemen presently 
discovered hisintention. Not liking to be so frequentlv 
interrupted, Hinckley, who was fond of a practical joke, 
emptied the snuffers of the bits of burnt wick, and 
poured in a little gunpowder (it being war time gun- 
powder was handy), and the two gentlemen then retired 



FIRST-ALCALDE HIXC KLKV. 20/ 

to a remote corner of the room. Soon after, the faithful 
secretary came again and appHed the snuffers, when an 
explosion followed that startled and nearly capsized him. 
He immediately broke out of the room, and the two 
gentlemen indulged in a burst of laughter. From the 
adjoining apartments, the governor's aids and General 
Castro hurried in, alarmed at first by the explosion, but 
relieved by hearing the laughter that followed. On being 
infornied, they joined in and added to the general merri- 
ment. The secretary finally made his appearance and 
shared in the fun. admitting that he had been victimized. 

In 1839 Hinckley went to Callao and brought the 
brig " Corsair," of which he was part owner and super- 
cargo, to Yerba Buena, loaded with assorted merchan- 
dise. In 1840 he became a permanent resident here. In 
1 842 he married Dona Susana, daughter of Don Ygnacio 
Martinez, his first wife having died in 1840 in Massa- 
chusetts. In 1844 he was elected first-alcalde of the 
district of San Francisco, headquarters at Yerba Buena. 
Being well fitted for the office of alcalde, he discharged 
the duties of the position in a manner very creditable to 
himself and to the satisfaction of the Californians and 
foreign residents. 

On the block now bounded by Washington, Jack- 
son, Montgomery and Kearny streets was a salt-water 
lagoon, or little lake, connected with the bay by a small 
creek. When the tide came in the lake was filled. 
At all stages of the tide there was considerable water 
remaining in it. To reach Clarke's point, to the north 



208 CONSTRUCTS A REMARKABLE BRIDGE. 

of the creek, the settled portion of the town being- to 
the south of it, the people would have to g^et across the 
best way they could, by wading, or jumping across in 
some places. One of Captain Hinckley's acts as alcalde 
was to cause the construction of a little bridge across the 
creek, thereby adding much to the convenience of the 
people who had occasion to go to the other side This 
was regarded as a great public improvement, and people 
came from far and near to look at and admire it, espec- 
ially the native Californians, who arrived from the Mis- 
sion and elsewhere, with their wives and children, to con- 
template the remarkable structure. 

During his administration as alcalde there were 
two or three little disturbances among the lower orders 
at Vioget's saloon and elsewhere, this saloon then being 
rented to Juan Padillo, a Mexican. Alcalde Hinckley, 
on being informed, would immediately go to the spot, 
and raising his baston, command them in tones of au- 
thority to desist from disturbance. Everything at once 
became quiet, and the disorder ceased; showing the re- 
spect with which they regarded the American alcalde 
and his insignia of office. 

Hinckley prevailed upon the prefect at Monterey 
to order a survey of Yerba Buena. The survey was 
made, and a plan of the town drawn and mapped, being 
the first survey of the kind of any importance. He 
took great interest in having the streets properly located 
and the plan executed in the best manner. No names 
at that time were given to any of the streets. 



SUB-PREFECT FRANCISCO GUERRERO. 2O9 

When Governor Micheltorena was opposed by Al- 
varado and Castro, he was at first favored by Hinckley 
as the legal governor of the department. Respecting 
his own oath of office, he naturally felt it his duty to 
stand by the regularly constituted authorities. How- 
ever, when Alvarado had succeeded in turning the cur- 
rent of popular feeling against Micheltorena, and had 
roused the people to revolution, Hinckley could not re- 
sist the movement, and joined the Alvarado party, be- 
coming an active participant in its operations. 

During the Bear Flag excitement Hinckley stood 
firmly by the Mexican government, being still alcalde, 
and was outspoken in its favor. 

After the expiration of his term of office, January 
I, 1846, he retained his friendship for the Californians 
and Mexicans. Before his death, which occurred in 
June, 1846, talk of war between Mexico and the United 
States was prevalent. The sloop-of-war '' Portsmouth," 
Captain Montgomery, was then lying at Yerba Buena, 
and though Hinckley was an American, his feeling in 
favor of the Mexican rule was so strong that he used to 
have some warm discussions on the subject with Cap- 
tain Montgomery and other officers of the vessel. 

P>ancisco Guerrero I regarded as one of the most 
important men in the district. He was a Mexican by 
birth. Shortly after I made his acquaintance, in the 
year 1838, I found him to be an intellectual man. 
About 1839 he was made alcalde, or jiiez de paz, and a 
few years after, was appointed sub-prefect. In these 



2IO THE SETTLEMENT OF FOREIGNERS FAVORED. 

offices he performed his duties most strictly, but not 
discourteously. On the occasion of the detention of 
Spear and myself at the time of the general arrest of 
the foreigners, he came in person to Spear's house and 
mentioned in the politest manner that he had an order 
from headquarters to arrest us, which he very much re- 
gretted, saying that Spear and myself need not feel any 
alarm ; that everybody knew us, and that he would go 
with Spear part of the way, as if they were traveling 
together, and that no indignity should be put upon him 
as a prisoner ; making the exercise of authority as light 
and as little disagreeable as possible. And so in the 
other arrests, he was so polite that those who were de- 
tained could not be otherwise than pleased with him. 
He knew them all and showed no domineering spirit, 
but treated them as friends rather than otherwise, and 
at the same time he did his duty strictly. 

Guerrero encouraged the immigration of foreigners 
to California and tlieir settlement, and defended them 
in their ri^rhts after thev ^ot here. He saw that the 
country must necessarily pass from the control of Mexico. 
In his administration of office he gave great satisfac- 
tion, showing no partiality tohis countrymen over foreign- 
ers, treating all with equal justice. Albeit a thorough 
Mexican, and loving his country, he had, as he often 
expressed it, no dislike to Americans. He admired 
them as a progressive people, and saw that they would 
ultimately control. On one occasion, in conversation 
with him, I suggested that he had better look out for a 



211 FOND OF I.rrTLE DANCES. 

rainy day, and secure some land for himself; that Gov- 
ernor Alvarado, in consideration of his official services, 
would irive him a erant, and that the land about the 
bav of San Francisco would some day be valuable. 
He replied that he had already taken steps to secure 
a grant at Half Moon bay, five or six leagues in ex- 
tent ; that he had received a permit from the govern- 
ment to occupy it, and in due time would get his title. 
He was very social in his nature and fond of little 
dances, which were frequently had at his house, join- 
ing in the festivity with great enthusiasm. 

Guerrero was one of the few real founders of San 
Francisco. A street at the Mission was named after 
him. In 185 1 he was murdered, in broad daylight, at 
the corner of Mission and Twelfth streets, by a F'rench- 
man, who came uo behind him, mounted on horseback, 
and struck him on the back of the head with a slung- 
shot. It is supposed that parties interested in the San- 
tillan land claim were the instigators of the murder. 
They wished to get Guerrero out of the way, as he 
would have been a damaging witne.ss against their 
claim ; being afraid of his influence and ability and in- 
dependence of character ; knowing he would not hesi- 
tate to expose the fraudulent nature of the claim. His 
widow is still living, and maintains her fine and digni- 
fied appearance and the graceful walk of her earlier 
years. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

A Record of Vessel Arrivals at Verba Buena and Monterey — Method of Collect- 
ing Cargoes — How Hides were Cured and Loaded Aboard — Whalers come 
into Port for Water and Other Supplies— The sort of Vegetables to be 
Planted for the Whalers — Reception given to Deserters from on Shipboard^ — 
Farmers Anticipate the Arrival of the Whaleships — Local Trade with them 
^Ingenious Manner of Concealing Goods from Custom House Inspection 
— Politics Excitedly Discussed — Captain Eliab Grimes Relates an Experi- 
ence — An Expression of Yankee Pluck — The Captain Secures a Land Grant 
—His Death. 

There is not in existence, to my knowledge, any 
maritime or commercial report of arrivals, or statement 
of the volume of business, in the port of San Francisco 
(Yerba Buena) for the two decades preceding the latter 
part of the year 1846, at which time the United States 
crovernment established a custom house here, the first 
collector being appointed by Commodore Stockton, 
commander of the naval squadron. 

It has been my purpose in these pages to furnish 
as complete a list as possible of the arrivals of vessels 
in the years from 1831 to 1846, both at Yerba Buena 
and at Monterey, the capital, where the only custom 
house in the department was located. 

The Boston ships which came here in early days 
with goods to sell, and took back hides, remained about 
two years, going up and down the coast several times. 
The round trip from San Diego, touching at San Pedro, 
Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, San Simeon, Monte- 



HIDE AND TALLOW WAREHOUSES. 213 

rey, Santa Cruz and Verba Buena, occupied three or 
four months ; so that during- the two years they made 
seven or eight trips of this kind. seHincr their nroods, 
collecting hides and tallow at different points, and on 
reaching San Diego deposited their collection of hides 
and tallow in warehouses, each of the vessels having 
a house for that purpose. 

At that port the hides were prepared for shipment 
by soaking them for twenty-four or forty- eight hours in 
large vats of brine, to preserve them against the attacks 
of moths and other insects. They were then spread out 
on the smooth sandy beach to dry, and afterward hung 
on ropes and beaten by the sailors with a sort of flail, a 
contrivance made of a wooden stick three and a halt 
feet long, to which was fastened a strip of hide and a 
short piece of wood of heavier kind than the other, to 
swing freely. Armed with these beating-sticks, two sail- 
ors passed along each side the row of hides and beat 
them thoroughly, removing all the dust and sand. 

After two years, a full cargo having been gathered, 
and stored at San Diego, the ship was loaded, carry- 
ing to Boston 38,000 to 45,000 hides. In loading the 
ves.sel, a rude press, made of boards and worked with 
ropes and pullies, was used to press the hides firmly to- 
gether in the hold. I saw this done in 1831 at San 
Diego, when the cargo of the bark " Volunteer " was 
transferred to the bark " Louisa." The vessels trading 
between California and Peru took no hides to Callao. If 
they collected any they exchanged them with the hide 



2 14 SPRINGS OF GOOD WATER. 

ships for tallow, no tallow going to Boston. Tallow 
vessels also had houses at San Diego for the deposit of 
bags of that article. The tallow was used in Peru for 
making soap and candles and for consumption in the 
silver mines of the country. 

Prior to 1843, whalers from the Atlantic coast 
would occasionally touch at a California port, either 
San Diego, San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San Luis 
Obispo, Monterey, or the bay of San P^rancisco, for 
supplies of beef and vegetables, and for water. In 1843. 
'44, '45, a considerable number of whalers came to San 
Francisco bay, and anchored off Saucelito ; as that was 
a convenient place to obtain water, Captain Richardson 
invited them to come and take what they wanted from 
his springs, which were reached from the beach. The 
shipping was generally supplied with water from those 
springs. There was also a spring of good water at 
about where the northeast corner of Clay and Mont- 
gomery streetsis now, from which whalers and merchant- 
men sometimes got a supply. As many as thirty or 
forty whalers were in the bay at one time during each of 
these years. They were not recjuired to enter at the 
custom house. They generally had on board a few 
thousand dollars' worth of goods for trading, and were 
allowed by the custom house authorities to exchange 
goods for supplies for their own use, at any point where 
they touched along the coast, to the extent of $400, 
but were not allowed to sell goods for cash. 

After 1842 there was an officer of the customs sta- 
tioned at Verba Buena to keep a general oversight of 



VEGETABLES CROWN IN LARGE QUANTITIES. 215 

the shippiiio. The whalers, however, became so numer- 
ous in the bay that he found it impossible to attend to 
them all, not having guards sufficient to place one on 
each. 

The farmers were much benefited by these vessels, 
inasmuch as they obtained from them goods at a cheap 
rate, in exchange for supplies. In consequence of there 
being so little supervision over them the whalers traded 
with the farmers and others for supplies, freely, not ad- 
hering to the $400 rule, but doing pretty much as they 
pleased. 

In making my usual trading expeditions, the ran- 
cheros whom I met would ask me if I thought as many 
of the whalers would come another year as were there 
then. I told them I thought even more would come, 
as they had been encouraged by finding good supplies 
of vegetables, and would probably come again and 
advise other ships to come. They asked my advice as 
to what they should plant for sale to the ships another 
year. I told them to plant Irish potatoes, cabbages, 
pumpkins and onions, as those were the vegetables the 
vessels mainly depended upon. 

Among those who were most active and energetic 
in furnishing supplies of this kind, and interested in 
planting for the purpose, were Don Vicente Peralta, the 
Castros of San Pablo, Don Antonio Maria Peralta, Don 
Ygnacio Peralta, and Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo, all 
on the east side of the bay. The Californians, although 
mainly engaged in cattle raising, were fond of agricul- 



2l6 



MECHANICS LEAVE THE WHALESHIPS. 



ture, and would have engaged in it extensively had there 
been any market for their products. When an oppor- 
tunity presented itself, as in the case of supplying the 
whaleships, they availed of it, and commenced planting. 

The vessels usually remained from four to six 
weeks getting in their supplies, which took some time, 
as they had to send out their boats to the different ran- 
chos about the bay, ihere being no produce merchants 
in those days. They were delayed also in painting 
and repairing, and waiting, perhaps, for the proper 
time to arrive when whales would be in season at 
the whaling ground. Most of the crews were given 
their liberty on shore, and a sailor would occasionally 
desert, and settle among the rancheros ; if a good man, 
industrious, and willing to work, especially if he had 
some mechanical skill at carpentry or other useful in- 
dustry, he was encouraged by the rancheros to stay, and 
was treated with kindness ; but if indolent and worth- 
less fellows deserted, while kindly treated, they were not 
encouraged to remain, but were presented with horses, 
and perhaps some clothes, and persuaded to ride away 
to some other rancho. 

As the time for the whaling fleet to visit the port 
approached, the farmers who had raised a supply of 
vegetables looked forward to their coming, hoping to 
dispose of their produce, and obtain goods in exchange 
at a low rate. 

In 1843 or '44 a young Irishman named O'Far- 
rell deserted from an American whaleship lying at Sau- 



OFFICIAL SURVEY OF SAN FRANCISCO. 2 17 

celito, having been employed as a cooper on board, 
and went to the Mission of San Rafael, then under the 
charge of Timothy Murphy, as administrator. From 
there he went to Bodega, bought a large tract of land, 
and engaged in cattle raising. He subsequently assisted 
as civil engineer in the survey of a portion of the city 
of San Francisco, as laid down on the present offi- 
cial map. Afterward he was elected to the State Leg- 
islature from Sonoma county ; for one term held the 
important position of State Harbor Commissioner ; 
and Jasper CF^arrell's name is prominent in the history 
of the state. 

While acting as the agent of Paty, McKinlay & 
Co., at Verba Buena, in 1843. '44 and '45, I occupied 
a large adobe building on the .spot which is now the 
west .side of Dupont street, near Clay. Requiring only a 
portion of it for my store and residence, three large 
rooms remained unoccupied. When the custom's agent 
Benito Dias, (who was not very scrupulous) came to 
reside at Verba Buena, I invited him to occupy these 
rooms with his family, free of charge ; and he did so. 
He had under his command four boatmen, and a four- 
oared boat with which he went all around the bay to 
visit vessels. I was on friendly terms with him, and 
at times after he had come home for the day, I would 
request and obtain the use of his boat and crew for the 
evening, he asking me no questions. Thus provided, 
I visited the whaleships, and purchased goods from 
them at a very low figure, white and brown cottons, 
calicos, handkerchiefs, and other cheap stuffs, paying 



2l8 BREAD IN CASKS. 

cash. My arrangements with Paty, McKinlay & Co.. 
were such that while I was conducting their business, 
I was allowed to trade on my own account, if such 
would not interfere with their trade. My goods 
were bought and sold for cash, while theirs were sold 
only for hides and tallow. Although money was 
scarce, I was enabled to sell articles so low that the 
rancheros managed to raise the funds to pay for them. 

In securing commodities from the whaleships I had 
them landed by the captains in large water casks, each 
end of the cask being filled with Boston pilot bread to 
the depth of eighteen or twenty inches. The casks 
were landed on the beach, and were supposed to be 
empty, but if any official felt curious enough to make an 
examination, and open the cask, the pilot bread would 
be seen. It was common to purchase bread supplies 
from the vessels for use on shore ; there were no bakeries, 
and the pilot bread was much liked. It would therefore 
appear all right to the inquiring officers. Nathan Spear, 
William G. Rae, William A. Leidersdorff and others 
doing business at Verba Buena got goods from the 
whalers by the same method, and considerable trade was 
carried on in this covert manner. During these two or 
three years, I made outside of my regular salary from 
my employers two or three thousand dollars. 

The revenue regulations were so little respected and 
so loosely enforced, that this traffic with whalers was 
sate. In 1845, the whaleship " Magnolia," Captain Sim- 
mons, was at Verba Buena. He was afterward of the 



A DEARTH OP^ AMUSEMENTS. 219 

firm of Simmons, Hutchinson & Co., at San b>ancisco ; 
in 1849 one of the heaviest houses on the coast, doing 
a large business. 

Captain Jim Smith, of the whaleship " Hibernia." 
from New Bedford, was here in 1844. He afterward 
established a Hne of packets between San Francisco 
and Honoluhi. Captain Smith was a Democrat, and 
Captain EHab Grimes, before mentioned in this narra- 
tive, was a Whig, and in 1844 they met in Nathan 
Spear's parlor, which was a resort of prominent mer- 
chants and strangers in the town, and often engaged 
in very warm political discussions, both being men 
of intelligence, aptness of expression, and erudition 
in the history and doctrines of their political parties. 
Each ably defended his party and its men and meas- 
ures, the discussions lasting usually several hours and 
attracting an interested audience of fifteen or twenty 
persons — captains, supercargoes and merchants, to 
whom anything of the kind was a great treat, in the 
dearth of other amusements. 

Captain Smith had the advantage of Captain 
Grimes in keeping his temper and being always cool 
and collected, while Grimes would get very much heated 
and would swear furiously at his adversary. In that 
remote part of the country forty-five years ago, in that 
little Mexican town of about seventy or eighty inhab- 
itants, the influence of the fierce contest between Dem- 
ocrats and Whigs which was being waged all over the 
Union was felt and had an effect. 



220 NO SURRENDER. 

Captain Eliab Grimes, during the war with Eng- 
land in 1812, was a young- heutenant of an American 
privateer, an hermaphrodite brig, which did great ser- 
vice in our cause, and captured many prizes, burning the 
vessels and landing the officers and crews at some con- 
venient point, after securing what money and other val- 
uables were on board. So successful was the privateer 
that each officer acquired a little fortune. Giving an 
account of his experiences on board, he said that one 
morning thev saw a vessel far oft" flying the English 
flag, supposed to be a merchantman, but on approach- 
ing, she proved to be a British man-of-war, and a fast 
sailer, which bore down upon them ; a stiff breeze blow- 
ing at the time. The privateer began to run away as 
fast as her sails would carry her, but the gale increas- 
ing, the war vessel made better headway, and their 
capture seemed imminent. Fortunately, the wind light- 
ened, giving the American vessel an advantage, as she 
could sail faster than her pursuer in a light wind, and 
toward night she increased the distance between them 
and escaped. 

William G. Rae, who was present when the cap- 
tain related the adventure, remarked, with a touch of 
national pride, he being an Englishman : " Captain 
Grimes, if the wind hadn't moderated, you would have 
had to surrender the brig." "No!" retorted Grimes, 
flashing up ; " I'll be d — d if we would ; we would 
h'civv. scuttled the old brig and simk her before we would 
have surrendered." It is true; their decision and res- 
olution would have proved unconquerable. 



(CRIMES GOOD MANAGEMENT. 22 1 

Rae and Grimes were on very friendly terms. 
They were given much to discussion, and for liours to- 
gether opposed each other in wordy controversy about 
national matters, the American Revolution, the last war 
with Great Britain, ably defending to the utmost each 
his own country. Rae, having a liking for the Ameri- 
cans, was not offended with Grimes' ebullitions, but 
took them all in good part, carrying on the discussion 
mainly as an intellectual pastime and for the entertain- 
ment of the listeners, who enjoyed the debates. 

Captain Grimes was an intimate friend of my 
father. Thev made several vovai>-es tofjether, one as 
passenger in the other's vessel, and my only brother 
was named after Captain Grimes. The captain was a 
noble-hearted man, very much esteemed and loved both 
at Honolulu and Yerba Buena. In 1841 or 1842 he 
obtained from Alvarado a grant of eleven leagues of 
land near Sacramento city, which afterward came into 
the possession of Sam Norris, and was known as the 
Norris ranch. 

When Captain Grimes died, in 1848, he had 16,000 
or 18,000 head of rodeo cattle on his ranch, obtained 
in these few years by his good management, system and 
skill. He was attentive to details, such as having the 
right proportion of bulls to cows. I merely allude to 
this by way of comparing the American and Califor- 
nian styles of management. His funeral was attended 
by the people of all the surrounding country, who came 
to pay the last tribute of respect and affection to his 
memory. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

Tlie First Discovery of Gold — Where and by Whom Discovered — It serves as 
Currency — Large Amounts of the Metal in Circulation — Promoting the 
Immigration of Women to Equalize the Sexes — Inducements for Voung Men 
to Marry Early — The Draft of Young Men for the Army Relentless — An 
Anecdote of the Draft — A Flight to Avoid it — The Draft deemed Needless — 
Salmon Catching — The Occupation made Profitable — Nathan Spear the 
Originator of Salmon Fishing for Commerce — Parrott's 111 Luck — His Vessel 
Wrecked — No Lives Lost — Part of the Cargo Saved — The Benefit of Packing 
Goods Securely — Looting Goods —Captain J. H. R. Cooper's Share in the 
Spoils. 

The first discovery of gold in California was in 
1840 in the valley of San Fernando, in the present 
county of Los Ano^eles. It was made by some Mexi- 
cans, from Sonora, who were passing through going 
north. They were familiar with the gold placers in their 
own country, had their attention attracted to the local- 
ity, and made the discovery. A good deal of gold from 
this source found its way to Los Angeles into the hands 
of the storekeepers. Henry Melius, in trading along 
the coast, used to visit Los Angeles, his vessel lying 
meanwhile at San Pedro. In his business with the 
merchants there he collected about $5,000 in gold dust, 
which was of fine quality, in scales as from placer digg- 
ings. Other merchants also collected some. Melius 
remitted $5,000 in gold dust to Boston by the ship 
"Alert," and also made other similar remittances. 
I saw at Yerba Buena, and handled, some of the dust 
which Melius had obtained. That year and the next, 



TFIE MONEY IN CIRCULATION. 323 

probably eif^hty to one hundred thousand dollars worth 
of gold dust was taken from these diggings. The 
finding of gold continued there for several years, up to 
ihit time of what is known as the bio- aold discovers in 
the Sacramento valley, but the results were small. 

The coin generally used by the merchants was 
Spanish and Mexican doubloons (gold) ; also American 
gold coin. Silver money of Mexican, Peruvian and Unit- 
ed States coin was likewise in circulation. I never saw 
in California an\ of the paper money in use in the East. 

In the early days, while Californian was still under 
Spanish ride, the proportion of men who had im- 
migrated to the new country was largely in excess of 
the women. To equalize the difference, and furnish 
wives for the single men, more particularly for the sol- 
diers, a representation was made by the governor of the 
department to the Spanish authorities of the facts, 
whereupon the home government made arrangements 
for the conveyance to California of a considerable num- 
ber of women of Spanish extraction, from Mexico. 
Some came by water, by vessels chartered by the Gov- 
ernment expressly for this purpose, and others came by 
land, imder official auspices. 

The motive was to prevent, so far as possible, the 
mixing of the Spanish race in California with the na- 
tive Indians of the country. The Spaniards were nat- 
urally proud of their own blood, and wanted to keep it 
uncontaminated. Hence this movement on the part of 
the government. The want of women was thus sup- 



2 24 EARLY MARRIAGES. 

plied in a measure, but as late as 1838, and along up to 
1846, the men exceeded the women in number, and 
some mixture with the Indians occurred. 

It was customary for the young men of the Cali- 
fornians to marry early. In this they w-ere encouraged 
by their parents, partly because they desired to have 
the sparsely settled country populated as rapidly as pos- 
sible, and partly also that the young men might thereby 
escape being drafted into the army. Under the Mexi- 
can law the commanding general of the army had 
power to levy upon the people for as many men as he 
might want to recruit his military force. From time to 
time, he designated such young men of different families 
as he chose to be taken for the purpose. It was noth- 
ing less than most arbitrary conscription. There was 
no redress. The rancheros were compelled to give up 
their sons when called upon, however wealthy, as money 
would not be accepted in lieu of the services of the 
young men. 

The unmarried were only taken, the commanding 
general being so considerate as to leave the married 
men to care for their families. The motive for early 
marriage, therefore', was strong ; in frequent instances 
boys of sixteen and seventeen taking wives unto them- 
selves. The designs of the commander were often thus 
frustrated, and draft evaded by young men who were 
on the alert to escape military service. 

A squad of ten soldiers, commanded by a sergeant, 
was sent out in 1838 by General Vallejo, from Sonoma, 



A CONSCRTPTION SCARE. 225 

for the purpose of picking up recruits at the ranchos. 
A young man living in the vicinity of the general's head- 
quarters getting information of this movement, and of 
the direction in which the squad was going, rode off 
post-haste to Suscol and across the National Ranch. As 
fast as one horse tired he lassoed another. Continuing 
on his course he reached the Straits of Carquinez, where 
he abandoned horse and saddle, and was quickly ferried 
across in a title bolsa by the I ndians. Taking his chances 
of lassoeing on foot one of Don Ygnacio Martinez' fine 
horses, rather a difficult feat, he rapidly pursued his 
journey until he reached San Pablo. There he gave in- 
formation of the coming of the recruiting squad to his 
friend Castro, then a boy fifteen or sixteen years old, 
who immediately mounted a fleet horse and rode to the 
rancho of his neighbor, Martinez, and informed his son 
of about the same age, that the conscripting officer 
was coming. The two then rode off rapidly south- 
ward, changing their horses when necessary, and 
stopping at the ranch houses along for food and a 
little rest, until they reached the old Mission of San Juan 
Bautista, which was located in a wide valley of remark- 
able beauty, half way between Castroville and Gilroy. 
At the Mission they were within a district under com- 
mand of General Jose Castro, who was a relative of 
one of the boys, and could feel at ease. They re- 
mained there until they thought it safe to return home. 
The following year both of these young men were 
married. Castro to the sister of his friend Martinez, and 
the latter to a daughter of Don Jose Joaquin Moraga, 
15 



226 AN ARMY NOT NEEDED. 

at the time owner of the valuable Moraga grant of six 
leagues. 

The Californian parents had dread of their sons 
being drafted into the armv, and the vounof men them- 
selves had no liking for it. Some of the more wealthy 
rancheros had pre-arranged and reliable communi- 
cations with their relations or friends living in So- 
noma, who gave them information whenever a squad of 
soldiers was about to be sent out to gather up recruits, 
and of the direction the squad would take. At such 
times young- men w^ould be sent off for a month or two 
from the rancho, either hunting orame, or to the ofreat 
San Joaquin valley to lasso some of the numerous wild 
horses there. The farmers were peace-loving men, and 
disliked to have their children forced into the army. 
They would protest, in the presence ot their friends, 
against General Vallejo's or Castro's taking their boys 
for soldiers, asking what they wanted of them when the 
countrv was at peace, not at war or likely to be, saying 
that the general had a hundred or two soldiers already, 
which was a force amply sufficient to send out to cap- 
ture or chastise wild Indians, and that any further in- 
crease must be only for the purpose of gratifying per- 
sonal ambition and love of power and display ; that if 
the Americans came to take the country, if they ever 
should, the few hundred soldiers he might have under 
him would not prevent the carrying out of their designs. 

After Captain Sutter bad settled at the fort New 
Helvetia, he was in the habit, at times, of sending 
fresh salmon to Yerba Buena. 



FIRST SALMON FISHERY. 227 

The fish were fresh -salted or smoked. Nathan 
Spear, who was an epicure, and lover of good thhigs, 
appreciated these fish very highly. The idea suggested 
itself to his mind that something profitable might be 
done in salmon fishing on the Sacramento river. Not 
wishing to trespass upon Captain Sutter's ground, al- 
though, of course, Sutter had no exclusive rij^ht to the 
fish in the river, Spear wrote to him on the subject, and 
received encouragement to go up and engage in fishing 
there tor salmon. He made several trips in 1840 and 
'41 in the schooner "Isabel," camping on the bank of 
the Sacramento in a comfortable tent, and superintended 
the catching of the fish by the crew of his schooner 
and by Indians experienced in fishing, furnished by 
Captain Sutter. He took large quantities of salmon, 
filling the hold of the " Isabel " with fish packed in bulk; 
transported them to Yerba Buena, and disposed of them 
at satisfactory prices, packed in barrels and kegs of dif- 
ferent sizes, to visiting vessels and to residents, making 
a good profit. To Nathan Spear, therefore, is du(; the 
credit of having inaugurated the salmon fishery on this 
coast as a business, and of developing, to a considera- 
ble extent, an enterprise which has since grown to 
large proportions. On the last trip to the river in 
salmon catching Mrs. Spear accompanied her husband. 

While John Parrott was United States commercial 
agent (consul) at Mazatlan in 1844 or '45, and also 
engaged in trade, an English brig named the " North 
Star" arrived there from England, with a cargo consigned 



228 "NORTH star" WRECKED IN CARMEL BAY. 

to Parrott, the invoice cost of which was $120,000. 
The duties on this cargo would have amounted to 
that sum ; probably more. Parrott wished to save 
payinor a large proportion of them, and thinking he 
could do better by entering the vessel at Monterey, 
than at Mazatlan, he hoisted sail, and started for the 
former place. Just before reaching Monterey, the 
vessel went ashore at Punta de los Lobos, Carmel 
bay, and became a total wreck. All persons on 
board were saved; also a large part of the cargo, 
one-half ]or two-thirds. The goods were originally 
intended to be taken from Mazatlan into the interior 
of Mexico, upon mules, this being the only mode ot 
transportation, and had been packed in E^ngland with 
reference to that, in not very bulky square packages,, 
admirably put up, solid and compact, and encased with 
water-proof wrapping. So securely were they covered^ 
that although many of them were taken from the water 
in the hold of the vessel, and others picked up while 
floating about the bay, yet the contents were not in the 
least injured, and were in as good a condition as if they 
had been landed from a vessel at the wharf. When 
the wreck became known at Monterey, the people of 
that place flocked by hundreds to the spot, and com- 
menced saving as much of the cargo as possible. There 
being nothing to prevent, each became a wrecker on 
his own account, and saved what he could for his own 
benefit. 

Captain J. R. B. Cooper was successful in securing 
a large amount of these goods. He took down from 



TWO AMERICANS. 229 

Monterey a number of the old-foshioned, solid-wheel 
wagons, drawn by oxen, the creaking and screeching of 
the vehicles, for want of grease on the axles, being 
heard for miles. With the aid of sailors whom he 
brought to the wreck he secured a large share of the 
spoils, many wagon loads ; took them to Monterey, and 
made a small fortune out of the proceeds. Cooper was 
an old sea captain, and understood the business. 
Others saved smaller quantities. The custom house 
permitted them to be taken as " damaged goods," with- 
out payment of duty, although, no damage was ap- 
parent on opening the packages. The landing of the 
goods was attended with great risk and danger, three 
of the native Californians losing their lives at this time 
— Jose Antonio Rodriquez, Francisco Gonzalez and 
Francisco Mesa. None of the wrecked goods was re- 
covered by Mr. Parrott. His protests and demands 
were ignored. It was a scramble, and he could not 
procure men or teams. 

In 1840 or '4.1 there arrived at Yerba Buena from 
Mazatlan two Americans, one named Hirnian Teal, a 
merchant ; the other Mr. Titcomb, his clerk. Teal 
brouQfht on a vessel about twentv thousand dollars' 
worth of Mexican goods; such as silk and cotton 
rebosas, serapes, ponchos, mangos, costly and ordinary ; 
silver mounted and gilt spurs, saddle.s, ornamented and 
ordinary, armas de pelo, or riding robes for protecting 
the legs and body up to the waist ; silver headstalls for 
horses, hair bridle reins, and other fancy and ornamental 
goods ; an assortment of Mexican products. Teal opened 



230 FROM NEW MEXICO. 

a Store and sold these goods to the hacienderos, princi- 
pally. Many were also sold to Captain Sutter, who 
paid for them in land-otter and beaver skins. Teal 
was here about two years disposing of his merchandise, 
and he made probably $30,000 out of the venture ; and 
had also boucrht some of Limantour's goods, which 
he sold with his own. 

I have heard him speak highly of the people of 
New Mexico with whom he had lived, in respect to 
their honesty and fair dealing; that during the whole 
mercantile course there, of several years, during which 
he dealt largely with them, giving them credit for their 
purchases when required, he never lost a dollar in all 
his transactions. They were kind and hospitable ; 
their kindness was genuine, and not affected. He 
said the happiest part of his life was spent among them. 
He obtained his goods for his store at Santa Fe, mostly 
from St. Louis, overland, commencing there with three 
or four thousand dollars. The twenty thousand dollars' 
worth of goods he brought from Mazatlan to Verba 
Buena showed how successful he had been in New 
Mexico. At Verba Buena he was much respected by 
Spear, Rae, and other prominent merchants, and liked 
by the people in general. He was fond of chess, 
and also made frequently one of a party at whist, 
playing chess in the daytime with Rae, and whist in the 
evening. After selling his goods here, Teal returned 
to New Mexico. Both he and Titcomb were originally 
from New England. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

Gold known lo K\ist in the Sacramento Valley long before the Discovery at 
Sutter's Mill — Indians brought it into the Missions — They told the Padres 
Where it was Found — A Coujile of Priests — They Differ in Character — 
Are both Friendly to the Author — Father Mercado Understood Good Liv- 
ing — Both Priests speak Concerning the Existence of Gold — They could not 
be Convinced that it would be Proper to Publish the Secret to the Worlds 
An Old and Faithful Aboriginee gives Information of an Intended Indian 
Outbreak — The report Doubted — It is Contirmetl by a Sudden and Unex- 
pected Attack — Three Men Killed — Indians Break into the Mouse — The 
Mistress saved by the Interposition of the Old Indian Woman — She is Dis- 
robed and Turned Loose — The Daughters taken into Captivity— The 
Mother's Brutal Treatment— Her Little Son spreads news of the Savage Per- 
formances — Further Fiendish Acts Threatened —The general Consternation. 

The existence of orold in the Sacramento valley 
and vicinity was known to the Padres long prior to 
what is commonly known as the gold discovery of 1848. 
Many of the Indians connected with the Missions were 
from that part of the country, and after becoming civil- 
ized, they were permitted to go to and fro between the 
Missions and their old homes, leave of ab.sence being 
granted for the purpose. Sometimes on returning to 
the Mission after a visit of this kind, an Indian would 
bring little pieces of shining metal to the priest, ap- 
proach him with an air of mystery indicating he 
had something to communicate, and display what he 
had found. The priest was to the Indian the em- 
bodiment of all wisdom and knowledge, and naturally 
the one to whom he would disclose anything of im- 
portance. Probably he had a suspicion that these 



232 PARTICLES OF GOLD. 

shining bits were gold, having some indefinite idea of 
the value of that metal. He would be asked where he 
had obtained it, and would name the spot, a certain 
slough or river bottom, where he had picked it up, or 
say that in digging for some root he had unearthed it. 
Upon getting all the information the Indian could give, 
the priest, with a solemn air, would caution the Indian 
not to impart to anyone else knowledge of the discovery, 
assurinor him if he further divulijed such information 
the wrath of God would be visited upon him. Having 
the most entire confidence in the priest and in every- 
thing he said, the Indian never uttered a word in re- 
gard to finding the gold, and kept the matter secret in 
his own breast. 

In my business trips about the bay of San Fran- 
cisco and neighborhood I visited the INIissions, and 
became intimately acquainted with Father INIuro, of 
the Mission of San Jose, and Father Mercado, of the 
Mission of Santa Clara. Both these priests always 
welcomed me. Father Mercado, whenever I was in 
the neighborhood transacting my business with the peo- 
ple, would send a messenger for me to come and dine 
with him. His table was bountifully supplied ; and dur- 
ing Lent, when meat was forbidden, he had every- 
thing else that was allowable, fish of different kinds, 
eggs cooked in various styles, and little delicacies of 
one kind and another, furnishing a meal of which a 
prince might have partaken with the greatest satisfac- 
tion. 



BRILLIANT CONVERSATION. 



-J.-> 



The priests naturally had confidence in the mer- 
chants who supplied them with goods and whose posi- 
tion gave them influence, and it was through theni that 
they had comunication with the world outside. 

Father Muro, while I was visiting him along in 
1843 or 1844, at the time I was agent of Paty, McKin- 
lay & Co. at Yerba Buena, mentioned to me his knowl- 
edge of the existence of gold in the Sacramento valley 
as a great secret, requiring me to promise not to divulge 
it. I have never mentioned it to this day to anyone. 
Afterward, in conversation with Father Mercado, the 
same subject was gradually and cautiously broached, and 
he confided to me his knowledge of the existence of 
gold in the same locality. Both of the priests stated 
that their information was obtained from Indians. 
Father IMercado vvas a brilliant conversationalist, and 
talked with the greatest fluency, in a steady stream of 
discourse, hour after hour ; and I greatly enjoyed hear- 
ing him. After he had imparted the news of gold in 
the Sacramento valley, I would interrupt the discourse, 
and, for the sake of argument, suggest that it would 
be better to make the matter known to induce Ameri- 
cans and others to come here, urging that with their 
enterprise and skill, they would rapidly open and de- 
veloi) the country, build towns, and engage in number- 
less undertakings which would tend to the enrichment 
and prosperity of the country, increase the value of 
lands, enhance the price of cattle, and benefit the 
people. He would answer that the immigration would 



234 INDIAN OUTBREAK. 

be dangerous ; that they would pour in by thousands 
and overrun the country ; Protestants would swarm 
here, and the Catholic religion would be endangered: 
the work of the Missions would be interfered with, 
and as the Californians had no means of defense, no 
navy nor army, the Americans would soon obtain su- 
preme control ; that they would undoubtedly at some 
time come in force, and all this would happen ; but if no 
inducements were offered, the change might not take 
place in his time. 

I never heard from any one, except the two priests, 
of gold in Northern California prior to its discovery in 
1848 at Sutter's mill. In the year 1851, I, with others, 
made an expedition into lower California from San Di- 
ego in search of gold. There information had been 
given by Indians to priests under similar circumstances. 

About the year 1837 there was an Indian outbreak 
in what is now San Diego county. A family by the 
nanie of Ybarra, consisting of the father, the mother, 
two young daughters, and a son about twelve years of 
age, lived at the rancho of San Ysidro. They had in 
their employ an old Indian woman, who had been chris- 
tianized at the Mission, a very faithful and good woman, 
Aconiadre to her mistress, the godmother of one of the 
Indian woman's children. This»relatibn was frequently 
assumed by the California ladies, it being a mandate 
of the Catholic Church everywhere, that any child that 
is christened shall be attended by a godfather and god- 
mother, and the Californians performed this religious 



I 



PREPARED FOR ATTACK. 235 

duty toward the children of the poorer classes, includ- 
ing the Indians. The serving woman got information 
of an attack upon the rancho which had been planned 
by Indians in the mountains, and a week before the 
occurrences here mentioned she warned the family of 
the approach. She urged and begged that they at once 
remove to the Presidio of San Diego for protection. 
Her mistress was anxious to follow the advice, but 
Ybarra himself discarded it. He did not believe that 
the Indians contemplated a movement. The Calitor- 
nians were a brave people, especially in opposition to the 
Indians, whether they went out in pursuit of them to 
recover stolen horses, or otherwise. They were always 
prepared to resist an attack by them in their own homes, 
and did not fear them, but considered that three or four. 
or eight or ten of their number were sufficient to van- 
quish ten times that many Indians. Ybarra had with 
him two vaqueros on the ranch, and did not think it 
necessary to pay heed to the statement of the woman, 
who, the night before the attack, repeated with em- 
phasis, her advice for the family to leave, saying the next 
day the Indians would surely be there and carry out 
their plans. The next morning at nine o'clock, while 
Ybarra and his vaqueros were at the corral, about [50 
yards from the house, engaged in lassoeing horses, with 
the intention of starting for .San Diego, the Indians 
stealthily approached, to the number of seventy-five or 
one hundred. The three men in the corral, seeing them 
very near, immediately ran toward the house to secure 



236 MISCREANT SAVAGES. 

arms. This design, however, was thwarted by a Htde 
Indian boy employed in the family, who, seeing them 
coming as they neared the house, shut and barred the 
door and prevented them from entering. He must 
have had knowledge of the designs of the Indians, and 
been in complicity with them, as by this act of the little 
villain, the three unarmed men were left outside at the 
mercy of the miscreant savages, and were speedily killed. 
I he Indians then broke into the house, and made a 
movement immediately to kill Doiia Juana, the mistress, 
but the old Indian woman defended her at the peril of 
her own life; interceded with the Indians and suppli- 
cated them to spare her mistress. This they did. The 
two daughters were also captured by the Indians and 
made prisoners. All the houses of the rancho were 
burned. The mother was ordered by the savages to 
leave the house, and go on foot to San Diecro. She 
set forth entirely disrobed. On approaching San Di- 
ego Mission she was clothed by a friendly woman, who 
came out and met her. In proceeding through a wheat 
field on the rancho she met her little son, who had gone 
out in the morning and had not encountered the sav- 
ages. He now learned from his mother of the murder 
ot his father and the two vaqueros, and the capture of 
his sisters. He was sent ahead to give information of 
the attack to the first Californian he might meet. 

News of what had happened was immediately com- 
numicated to the Rancho Tia Juana, owned and occu- 
pied by Don Santiago Arguello, a beautiful piece of 



KRRiHT AT TIA jUANA. 237 

land having a fine stream of living water running- 
through it. At that time several California families 
were encamped there, spending a portion of the sum- 
mer ; the Bandinis, xAlvarados and others. There were 
also several young ladies and girls, one of them Miss 
Estudillo. 

At the Rancho Tia Juana the intelligence created 
much consternation, and the camps of the several 
families were immediately broken up. They proceeded 
to San Diego, accompanied by the Arguello family, who 
took with them as many of their horses as they conven- 
iently could. The Indians shortly after reached the 
place, burned the houses, and secured the stock which 
the owner had left behind in the fields. 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

Mow the Freaks of an Inebriated Man Frightened the Indians off — The Indians 
Pursued — An Indian Spy is Captured — Tells of the Friqht Occasioned to the 
Indians, and is Shot — An Attempt to Recapture the Daughters Fails — The 
Brothers Wounded and Compelled to Retreat — The Girls never Recovered — 
Further Indian Exploits — The Savages are Chastised — Residents at San 
Diego in 1838 — Miss Alvarado — Her Knowledge of the Indian Language 
Enables Ilcr to Detect a Fiendish Plot — The Indian Plan for a Massacre — A 
Company Organized for Defense — The Conspirators Lassoed and Secured — 
They Confess their Guilt and are Shot — A Cannon Borrowed by the Cali- 
fornians for Defense — Another Confession by a Spy, after Mutilation — His 
Subsequent Fate — The Indians are Surprised — A Battle in which they are 
Defeated — An Indian Night Attack upon the Residence of Don Santiaguito 
Arguello— It is Unsuccessful — Indian Depredations — ^James Berry gets a 
Land Grant, and Stocks it — A Bay and Shore Celebration of the P'ourth of 
July. 

The third night the Indians intended to fall upon 
the Rancho Jesus Maria, occupied by Don Jose Lopez 
with his wife and two daughters. News of the Indian 
outbreak reaching San Diego, it was resolved to send 
out a force for his protection and to rescue, it possible, 
the two girls captured at San Ysidro. 

Don Jose Lopez had a large vineyard and manu- 
factured wine, of which he occasionally imbibed more 
than was consistent with a well-regulated head. On 
the evening when the Indians were to attack him 
he was filled with wine, which led him to some ex- 
traordinary demonstrations. He went out and built 
a number of largfe bonfires in the vicinitv of his 
house, and then commenced shouting vociferously, mak- 



LOPEZ UNCONSCIOUS STRATF.GY. 239 

ing a great noise for his own entertainment onl\ . As 
the' Indians approached the place they sent out a spy 
in adv.ince to reconnoitre and ascertain it everything 
was fa\"orable for attack. The spy seeing the fires 
i)Lirnino-, and hearing; this loud and continued shouting, 
concluded that the Californians were there in force, and 
so reported to the main body of Indians, who deemed 
it prudent to retire. 

This is the only instance I remember where anv 
p.u'ticular benefit resulted from the freaks of an into.xi- 
cated man, who probably could not have done anything 
better to drive away the Indians had he been aware o( 
their presence and designs. 

The ne.xt day the force arrived, and Lojiez and 
family were escorted to San Diego, the main body of 
the troops going in pursuit of the Indians. 

Ybarra, at the time he was murdered, had in San 
Diego two sons, who joined the company in pursuit, as 
they were anxious to learn everything possible regard- 
ing the fate of their sisters. They were soon in- 
formed by a captured spy that two of the chiefs had 
made them their wives. The company followed into 
the mountains, until they reached a rugged and broken 
country wholly inaccessible to horses, and were obliged 
to stop, the narrow defiles affording innumerable hid- 
ing places for Indians and giving them an advantage 
over the approaching enemy. Had the Californians 
attempted to advance on foot they would have met with 
certain death, for the Indians swarmed in force, knew 



2-40 VBARRA GIRLS NEVER HEARD FROM. 

the region intimately, and would hav^e picked the troops 
off one bv one. The two brothers Ybarra, however, 
urged on by the desire to rescue their sisters, advanced 
further into the mountains than the rest of the com- 
pany, actually saw the girls in the midst of the savages, 
and got within a short distance of them, but were so 
badly wounded by the arrows showered upon them that 
they were compelled to return. After that, up to the 
time Miss Estudillo left San Diego, in 1842, nothing 
further was heard of the two girls. 

Opposite the house where she was living with her 
aunt was the residence of Ybarra's two sons and their 
families. Dona J nana, the mother, lived with them in 
San Diego up to the time of her death, which occurred 
about a year after her husband was murdered ; this ter- 
rible occurrence and the loss of her daughters also, 
proving too great a blow for her. During this time she 
never ceased to lament their sad fate. It was heart- 
rending to listen to her expressions of grief, weeping 
and wailing for the loss of her husband and children, like 
Rachel refusing to be comforted. Her distress often 
made the people weep who heard her lamentations. 

Prior to the incidents above related, the same tribe 
of Indians had made several attacks upon the Presidio 
of San Diego for purpose of plunder, and the capture 
of women, but were frustrated; and also pursued and 
severely chastised. The savages in that part of the 
country had the reputation of being braver and better 
fighters than those in the north. The San Diego In- 
dians ate the meat of horses as well as of cattle. 



COUNCIL OF THE COOKS. 24I 

In 1838 there were living at the Presidio of San 
Diego the following families : The Estudillos, the Ar- 
guellos, the Bandinis, the Alvarados, Governor Pico's 
family, the Marons, the Machados, the Ybarras, the 
Serranos, the Carillos, the Lopez family, the h'itch fam- 
ily and a number of others. 

One of the daughters of the Alvarado family mar- 
ried Captain Snook. After her marriage two of her 
younger sisters resided with her a portion of the time. 
One of them had acquired considerable knowledge of 
Indian language. Several of these families had Indian 
men for cooks. One evening after supper, the vou ng 
lady just mentioned. Dona Guadalupe Alvarado, over- 
heard the cooks in earnest conversation in the Indian 
language. As soon as the words were caught by her 
ear she was startled and surprised, and drawing nearer 
heard all that was said. She discovered that the In- 
dian cooks from the different families had gathered in 
the kitchen of the house and were discussing a plan of 
attack upon the town by members of their tribe. It 
appeared that arrangements had been completed for the 
capture of the town the following night, and that the 
cooks in the several families were to lend their aid. 

In the council of the cooks, it came out that each 
on the following night was to communicate with a 
spy from the main body of Indians, and take stations 
for this purpose on top of the hill overlooking the town, 
where the old Presidio and first garrison quarters of the 
Spaniards in California formerly stood. They were to 

16 



242 EXECUTION OF CONSPIRATORS. 

inform the spies of the condition of each family, whether 
or not it was sufficiently off guard at the time to warrant 
an attack. There happened to be present in the house 
Don Pio Pico and Don Andreas Pico, who were mak- 
ing a friendly call on the family. They were a good 
deal startled at the statement made by the young lady, 
and represented that they would give the conspiracy 
immediate attention. The people of San Diego at that 
period had their houses well supplied with arms and were 
always on the watch for Indian movements. Accord- 
ingly, during the night they organized a company of cit- 
izens and arranged that at daylight each house should 
be visited, and the cook secured. This was success- 
fully accomplished. As each of the conspirators came 
out of the house in the early morning he was lassoed, 
and all were taken a little distance from town, where 
it was proposed to shoot them. They expressed a 
desire to be allowed to die as Christians, to confess 
to the priest and to receive the sacrament. This re- 
quest was granted ; the priest heard the confession of 
each and administered the rite,s of the church. A trench 
of suitable depth was then dug, and the Indians made 
to kneel close beside it. Then on being shot, each fell 
into the ditch, where he was buried. Eight or ten In-, 
dians were executed at this time. 

While these proceedings were taking place a mes- 
senger was sent to one of the Boston hide-ships lying 
in the port requesting that a cannon might be loaned to 
the town, to assist in its defense. The cannon was 



UNCONVF.RTED INDIANS. 243 

sent over, with ;i suitable supply of ammunition. At 
night a party of citizens visited the spot where the In- 
dian spy was to appear, and succeeded in capturing 
him. He steadily refused to confess, though assured 
that he would soon die, as his friends had done before 
him. One of his ears was cut off, and he was given 
to understand that the other one would follow, and 
that he would be mutilated little by little until he made 
the statement required of him ; whereupon, his reso- 
lution orave wav, and he made a confession indicating 
where the Indians were encamped, and telling all that 
he knew. 

This mode of extorting a confession, although re- 
pulsive to those who participated in it, was the only way 
of securing the desired information. After the spy had 
divulged all he knew, he was shot without further cere- 
mony, he being an unconverted Indian and not desir- 
ing the services of the priest. 

The next day the citizens went out in force, found 
and surprised the Indians and engaged them in 
battle ; numbers of them were killed, but none of the 
Californians. 

The last time Miss Estudillo saw any of these 
.savages was in 1840 while visiting at the house of Don 
Juan Bandini, who owned and occupied the Rancho 
Jurupa, in what is now Los Angeles county. Her aunt. 
Doiia Dolores Estudillo, was Bandini's first wife, and 
at her death, left several children. He afterward mar- 
ried a daughter of the Prefect, Don Santiago Arguello, 



244 PUNTA REYES GRANT. 

who, at the time now mentioned, was mistress of the 
household. The house was situated at an elevation, 
and the view from it commanded a wide range of coun- 
try. One day they all noticed from the house a body 
of Indians in the distance, who were collecting horses 
they had stolen from the Mission San Gabriel and the 
Rancho Santa Ana in that neighborhood. As Bandini 
had but few men with him at the time, and the Indians 
were in large numbers, he did not deem it prudent to at- 
tack, and attempt the rescue of the animals. He there- 
fore permitted them to move off to their retreats with- 
out any pursuit. 

In 1838, at Yerba Buena, I made the acquaintance 
of James Berry, an Irishman of intelligence and edu- 
cation, who had come here from Mexico or South 
America. He had traveled all over the world. Spear 
was attracted to him, and Berry stayed at his house 
while in Yerba Buena. He spent a good deal of his 
time at the Mission of San Rafael with Timothy Mur- 
phy, one of his countrymen, and Father Ouijas. He 
was a Spanish scholar and spoke Spanish perfectly. In 
1839 Governor Alvarado gave him a grant of eleven 
leagues of land at Punta Reyes, and he stocked the 
rancho with horses and cattle. 

The ship " Alciope " of Boston, Captain Clapp, 
arrived at Yerba Buena in the summer of 1840 with 
an assorted cargo, from Honolulu. She had been char- 
tered by A. B. Thompson, who disposed of her goods 
here, and then loaded her with hides and tallow. She 



FOURTH OF JULY, 184O. 245 

went down the coast exchanging the tallow for hides, 
with the tallow vessels bound for Callao, and proceeded 
to the Islands; from there to Boston. 

At the Fourth of July celebration while at Yerba 
Buena on this trip, being the only vessel in the bay at 
the time, she was handsomely decorated with flags of dif- 
ferent nations. Salutes were fired by the vessel at sunrise, 
noon and sunset. A grand picnic was held at the Rincon, 
which was attended by all Americans and other foreign- 
ers of the town, by the elite of the Californians from 
town and country, and by the officers of the vessel. The 
foreigners, English, Irish, Germans and French, joined 
in the festivities with all the enthusiasm of the Ameri- 
cans, and the Calitornians likewise, prominent among 
whom was Don Francisco Guerrero, who did all in his 
power to make the occasion enjoyable to those partici- 
pating. In the evening there was a ball at Captain 
Richardson's house on the hill, near Clay and Dupont 
streets, which was attended by those who had joined in 
the picnic. Late in the evening a splendid dinner was 
served, and dancing continued till daylight. The whole 
celebration passed off in the pleasantest manner and 
was greatly enjoyed by all. To enable the prominent 
families around the bay to attend, boats and schooners 
were sent to different points a day or two previous to 
the Fourth to bring them in, and they were returned in 
the same wav after the event. 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

A Cargo of Panocha brought by Captain Dare in the Ship " Dreadnaught '' — John 
Perry tells Interesting Stories of Central America — Precautions against 
Smuggling— Spear Influences Perry for a Motive — Privileges Granted to Mer- 
chants by Governor Alvarado — Perry Dies at Realejo — Pisco and other 
Goods Arrive from Peru — Hinckley Talks too Much and is Arrested — Nothing 
is Proved against Him, and He is Discharged — The First Grist Mill at Verba 
Buena — The Manner of Operating it — The Second Mill at San Jose — 
Native Mode of Grinding Flour — Something about the Verba Buena Miller- — 
Captain Miguelon — His Characteristics and Cargo — An Offer Declined — 
Dangerous Passage of a Swollen Stream — A Thrilling Incident of the Crossing 
— Stetson in Peril — He has b Narrow Escape — More High Water — Detention 
of a Bridal Party in Consequence — The First Steamer on the Bay — Something 
about "Jim Crow Smith," an Eccentric Character — His Dexterity as a Pistol 
Shot — He makes a Savage Misuse of the Weapon — Dies by Suicide. 

About September, 1838, there arrived at Yerba 
Buena the hermaphrodite brig " Fearnaught," Captain 
Robert H. Dare, from Realejo, Central America, with 
a cargo mostly of panocha (hard sugar) put up in boxes 
in solid form, each box containing a cake of about three 
arrobas in weight, and resembling packages of maple 
sugar. The vessel also brought a little coffee. She 
remained in the harbor a long t|me. The panocha 
sold readily to the California people, who had a liking 
for sweet things, and were very fond of it, the children 
eating it in lumps like candy, the grown people doing 
the same. Captain Dare was an Englishman, a regular 
John Bull, a very good sort of man, punctual and cor- 
rect in all his business engagements. There also came 



VISITING CALIFORNIA FOR HEALTH, IN I 838. 247 

in the vessel an American by the name of John Perry, 
who had Hved at Realejo for many years as a merchant. 
He visited Cahfornia on this trip for his health. He 
was a peculiar man, although very intelligent, pos_ 
sessed of wide information, and a Spanish scholar, 
speaking and writing the language fluently. He re- 
tained the friendship and confidence of his business 
associates to the time of his death. After the ves- 
sel had disposed of her goods she returned to Realejo. 
Perry remained here for about a year and a half, stop- 
ping with Spear, and assisting in the business, taking 
charge of the store while I was cruising about the bay. 
Spear, of course, had a general oversight of affairs, but 
did not confine himself closely to the store at Verba 
Buena, as he had a store at Monterey also, to which 
place he went frequently. He also made little trips into 
the country round about on matters of business. Be- 
sides this, having a smattering of medical knowledge, 
and a good supply of medicines, he was called upon 
to attend the sick in various directions, which he did 
willingly, making no charge for his services. 

Perry was married to one of the ladies of Realejo, 
and appeared to be very devoted to his wife and children. 
Having an intimate knowledge of the character, habits 
and manners of the people of Central America, he en- 
tertained us with descriptions of the country, its inhab- 
itants and their history. 

In 1838, and prior to that time, the Mexican law 
applicable to the department of California forbade any- 



248 THE 200 VARA LIMIT. 

body in any seaport building nearer the water than 200 
varas, so that facilities for smugghng might not exist, 
as if the houses were close toshore. Under this aofree- 
ment Jacob P. Leese and Captain Wm. A. Richardson 
were living on what is now Dupont street, and conduct- 
ing business there. This was considerably beyond the 
200 vara limit, and as they could not be down near the 
water, which they would have preferred for their busi- 
ness, they went higher up than was necessary under the 
law, this elevation giving them, however, a good view 
ot the surrounding country and bay. 

About the beginning of 183S, the Boston bark, 
" Kent," Captain Steele, was lying in the bay of San 
P'rancisco, and Spear bought of him a good-sized ship's 
house, and placed it near the beach, at what is now the 
northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets. As 
a special friend, Alvarado, the governor, gave him per- 
mission to occupy it there, he then being the only per- 
son who was permitted to be near the margin of Loma 
Alta cove. Very soon afterward he built a store ad- 
joining '' Kent Hall," by which name the ship's house 
was known, though only 12x18 feet in dimensions. 
About that time Spear and Leese dissolved their part- 
nership, and the business on the hill was discontinued, 
Leese still having his residence there. Spear opened 
business at the new place near the water. He had no 
title to the lot, simply a permission from the gover- 
nor to occupy it. Perry, finding that the climate of 
California agreed with him and that his health had 



THE GOVERNOR CiRANTS A 50-VARA LOT. 249 

improved, determined to make Verba Buena his home 
in the future. He was incHned to become a Mexican 
citizen. 

Spear encouraj^ed him in this incHnation, as being 
of great advantage, for thereby he might, under the 
hiw, become a o-rantee of such lands as the irovernor 
should be disposed to bestow upon him. He also 
thought Perry might assist him in acquiring a title to 
the lot occupied by his store. Perry went by land to 
Monterey, with strong letters of introduction from Spear 
to Alvarado, in the spring of '39. The governor made 
him a citizen of Mexico, and granted to him, in his 
own name, the fifty vara lot occupied by Spear. Upon 
his return, Perry deeded the property to him, although 
under the law, strictly applied, Spear could not hold the 
land under such transfer. In a short time Leese ob- 
tained a similar permit from the governor to build near 
the water, and did so. After that. Yioget and John 
P'uller did the same. They were followed by others as 
the town increased and foreigners came in. Spear con- 
tinued to occupy the place until the change of govern- 
ment in 1846. Perry returned to Realejo in the spring 
of 1840, his health not firmly established, and died there 
within a year. 

In 1839, early in the year, the brig " Daniel O'Con- 
nell," an English vessel, arrived at Verba Buena from 
Payta, Peru, with a cargo of Peruvian and other foreign 
goods, having on board a considerable quantity oi pisco 
or Italia, a fine delicate liquor manufactured at a place 



250 HINCKLEY IN TROUBLE. 

called Pisco. He had also a considerable lot of becufia 
hats, and a good many p07ic/ios, slmWar to those brought 
from Mexico. Spear assisted the captain and super- 
cargo in disposing of the goods. She left here for 
Peru in the Spring of 1840 with a cargo of tallow. 

In 1839 the brig " Corsair," Captain William S. 
Hinckley, arrived from Monterey. Hinckley was after- 
ward alcalde. While at Monterey he said something 
about evading the custom house laws, and was heard to 
talk imprudently in Spear's store. I cautioned him in 
a friendly way. A few days after, Don Pablo de la 
Guerra, a custom house officer, and other officials, ar- 
rived from Monterey ; Hinckley was arrested, and 
kept under arrest for about a week at Spear's store 
while an examination was made by the officers. An 
inspection was made of the vessel, the sailing master 
and other officers were cross-questioned ; but nothing 
could be proved against him, and he was discharged. 

Hinckley being a man with good powers of speech 
and persuasion, brought these personal forces to bear 
in his defense against the charge of smuggling. Be- 
sides this, he showed the officials all the attentions pos- 
sible during the examination. This is the only in- 
stance, with the exception of A. B. Thompson, super- 
cargo of the " Loriot," that I remember, of an arrest 
in those days on a charge of evading the revenue laws. 

On this trip the " Corsair" landed at Verba Buena, 
consigned to Spear & Hinckley, the machinery for a 
grist mill, from Callao, manufactured at l^altimore. 



THE FIRST FLOUR MILL. 25 1 

Shortly after, the machinery was put up in a heavy-frame 
wooden building, two stories high, on the north side of 
Clay street, in the middle of a fifty vara lot between 
Kearny and Montgomery streets. This was the first 
grist mill in California. It was operated by six mules, 
Spear having some eighteen or twenty for this work. 
A man by the name of Daniel Sill was the miller. The 
mill made a considerable quantity of fine flour, from 
wheat raised by the rancheros round the bay, each of 
them having a patch, and some of them fields of good 
size. 

The mill probably turned out twenty to twenty-five 
barrels of flour a day, which was put up in fifty and one- 
hundred-pound sacks and sold to farmers and to the 
vessels. A flour mill run by water was established about 
the same time at San Jose by William Gulnack, an 
American, who married a Lower California lady. He 
first emigrated to Honolulu, with his family, and from 
there came to Monterey in the bark " Volunteer," in 
1833. He went thence to San Jose. Those two were 
the only flouring mills in the department for a long 
while. Prior to their establishment the ranchero made 
his flour by crushing the wheat by means of an ap- 
paratus composed of two circular stones, a yard in diam- 
eter, set up out of doors near the kitchen of his house, 
a shaft being aflixed to the upper stone and turned by 
mule power. The grain thus ground fell upon a plat- 
form about eight or ten feet in diameter, under the lower 
stone ; a hopper was affixed to the upper stone, into 



252 SILL, THE MILLER. 

which the wheat was poured. After a quantity had 
gone through this process it was ground over again 
two or three times in the same manner ; the flour was 
then sifted out in hand sieves, and was ready for use. 
The poorer people who did not have a mill of this 
kind were provided with a inetate, a flat stone, about 
12x18 inches, with a little rim on the two lonor sides, and 
supported on three legs five or six inches high of un- 
equal length, the flat surface inclining at an angle of 
about thirty-five degrees. The operator, resting on his 
knees, crushed and abraded the grain by moving a hand- 
stone forcibly downwards over the flat surface until the 
grain was well cracked. At the foot of the incline it 
fell into a dish placed beneath. The process was re- 
peated several times and until the grain was suffici- 
ently pulverized for use. If corn was crushed iox tor- 
tillas, or tamales, the whole of the grain was made 
use of. The vietatc was also used for grinding chili 
pepper, when dry —for seasoning ; also for meat, instead 
of chopping. 

Sill, the miller, was an old mountaineer who had 
come across the plains in 183 i or '32, and lived about 
the bay of San Francisco, either at a Mission or with a 
ranchero. He was industrious and useful, possessed ot 
a deal of common sense, but of no education ; quiet and 
well behaved ; a splendid hunter and marksman, hav- 
ing brought from his eastern home his old rifle, of a 
very primitive pattern, but unerring in execution in his 
hands. If he ever drew it upon a coon, a bear or a 



DEER AT RINCON. 253 

lark, the result was that the game had to come down. 
While employed as miller he was fond of going out 
Sunday mornings for a little hunt. I was often invited 
to accomj)any him. We would start about nine o'clock 
and go over to a place called Rincon, a flat between 
Rincon Hill and Mission Bay, and a resort for deer, the 
place being covered with a thick growth of scrub oak 
and willows, which afforded them good shelter. Pres- 
ently, perhaps four or five deer would appear in sight, 
and Sill, drawing his old rifle to his shoulder, always 
got one. " Now, William," he would say, "go for the 
yellow horse." This was one of Spear's animals, and 
was known as the deer horse. I would cjo and saddle 
him, and ride over to the hunting ground. By that 
time, Sill usually had another deer. Slinging the two 
carcasses across the animal, we would return in triumph 
to town. 

The native Californians were not fond of hunting, 
and so the deer were little disturbed, save by the few 
hunters who came into the country from other parts. 
Sill spent a portion of his time in the Sacramento 
valley, trapping beaver and land-otter, for their skins, 
which were very valuable. He also killed elk, for their 
hides and tallow. There was a blacksmith's shop con- 
nected with the mill, and Sill, who had a natural apti- 
tude for all trades, was the blacksmith as well as the 
miller, the first one in San Francisco. Afterward, old 
Frank Westgate was employed as blacksmith. He 
understood that work ; but was a hard drinker. Sill 



2 54 CHOICE COCOA. 

remained as miller for Spear until about 1842 or '43. 
when his disposition to rove, impelled him to take his 
departure. He went to the upper Sacramento valley, 
and lived a while with Peter Lassen, a Dutchman, who 
had settled there under a grant. At times he stopped 
with some of the other settlers ; with Sutter for a while 
at New Helvetia. As he always made himself useful, 
he was welcomed wherever he went. 

About March, 1841. the Ecuadorian brig " Joven 
Carolina," from Guayaquil, arrived, commanded by an 
Ecuadorian who was always known as Captain Migue- 
lon, (which signifies large Michael.) The captain was 
of a broad and liberal nature, kind and humane in his 
treatment of the men on board his vessel ; the friend of 
everybody; overflowing with good humor, though at the 
same time an excellent business man. Being one ot 
the joliiest and best natured of gentlemen, he took 
great delight in the society of ladies. They often 
visited him on board the brig. The vessel brought a 
cargo mostly of cocoa, with a quantity of coffee, from 
Central America, and some Peruvian commodities. She 
remained at Yerba Buena until November, disposing of 
the goods, all of them being sold in the bay, a portion 
to vessels trading on the coast. The Californians were 
fond of cocoa and chocolate ; the manufacture of the 
latter from the cocoa was done by the women, who pre- 
pared a choice article with the hand-mill or metate. 

The vessel went back to Guayaquil, and thence 
to Peru, with tallow. Shortly before she sailed. Cap- 



I 



A YOUNG MAN FROM CHARLESTOWN. 



'D^ 



tiiin Miguelon, who owned the vessel, uri^ccl me to go 
to Guayaquil with him, saying^ that on arrival there, I 
should be supercargo; we would then return to Cali- 
fornia and dispose of the goods. The offer was an ex- 
cellent one. but I declined it. thinking I could do better 
bv remaining where I was. 

One day in January, 1842, after I h<id joined Cap 
tain Paty, as supercargo, I started with Edward L. 
Stetson, the young clerk of the vessel, accompanied by 
a vaquero. from Don Domingo Peralta's rancho, near 
the present site of Berkeley, for the pueblo of San Jose. 
Stetson had just come from Charlestown, Massachusetts. 

It had been raining hard, and the creeks were 
swollen, running over their banks, the country flooded 
all round ; the winter having been a severe one. On 
reaching Alameda creek at the crossing near Vallejo's 
Mill, we found it was overflowing, and the current very 
swift. In that condition it was dangerous to cross. I 
had often crossed under similar circumstances, and I 
consulted with the vaquero as to the expediency of pro- 
ceeding ; he replied, " Just as you please." Stetson said 
it looked very risky. I told him to keep perfectly cool 
and steady, as the horse would have all he could do to 
take him over, and he must not do anything to excite 
the animal or throw him off his balance. The vaquero 
went first. Stetson next and I followed. About half 
way across, the vaquero's horse, a large white colt, un- 
broken, lost his footing, and he and the rider rolled over 
and over in the stream, but after a hard tussle brought 



256 ENTERTAINED AT THE OLD MISSION SAN JOSE. 

up on the opposite side, the vaquero having stuck to 
the horse all the time. When this happened Stetson 
began to weaken, got unsteady, nervous, and, turning 
round, looked very white, remarking that it was the 
worst scrape he ever got into. I told him not to look 
around, which mio^ht embarrass the horse, but to look 
ahead, to hold on and keep cool. However, he began 
to shake, and presently down the horse went, and the 
two began to roll over and over. He lost his hold upon 
the saddle and floundered about in the stream, his long 
limbs projecting here and there, as the current swept . 
him away. Notwithstanding the peril he was in, I could 
not resist laughing at his ridiculous appearance. The 
horse got across, and Stetson brought up on a little 
island. Getting across the stream dry on my horse, I 
called out to him to rest awhile, and then swim ashore 
the best he could. Being a swimmer, he finally plunged 
in, and with hard work in the swift water reached shore, 
minus his hat and a fifty dollar serape. We gave the 
vaquero a dollar, and he returned in an hour with the 
serape, having been fortunate enough to recover it. 

We resumed our horses, and on reaching the Mis- 
sion of San Jose were cordially welcomed by Father 
Muro. Stetson and the vaquero were furnished with 
clothing while their own was drying, the difiiculty be- 
inof to find orarments which would accommodate Stet- 
son's long limbs, and at the best the bottom of his pan- 
taloons came half way up to the knee. Considerable 
merriment was had at his expense. W^e remained two 



THE FIRST STEAMER ON THE ,UAV. 257 

nights, waiting- for the Coyote creek to fall somewhat, 
as we had to cross that stream. The Coyote was not 
dangerous to cross, and we reached the old town of 
San Jose without mishap. 

There were no bridges in those days. In April, 
1839, a bridal party, numbering twenty or thirty per- 
sons, went from Pinole to the Mission of San Jose. In 
crossing San Leandro, San Lorenzo and Alameda 
creeks they had difficulty, because of the high water. 
In returning the next day they found the streams still 
higher, and the difficulty increased. On coming to the 
San Leandro creek they found the water so high that 
it was unsafe to cross, and the entire party was de- 
tained there several days. 

The first steamer appeared on the bay of San 
Francisco in 1844. She was built by the Russians at 
Sitka, and brought on one of their vessels to Bodega, 
where the machinery was put into her. She was a side- 
wheel boat, and was owned by William A. Leidesdorff, 
who had bought her of the Russians. On the trial trip 
in the bay she passed round Goat Island, when all the 
native and foreign residents gazed with curiosity and as- 
tonishment. The excitement was great, and the day 
one of generalVejoicing. The machinery, shortly prov- 
in2f a failure, was removed, and she became a sailincr 
vessel about the bay. 

When Captain John Paty landed General Michel- 
torena and the troops at San Bias he found there a man 
by the name of William M. Smith, whom he brought 

17 



258 THE FIRST AUCTIONEER. 

to Yerba Buena on the return voyage. He was after- 
ward known as "Jim Crow" Smith, on account of his 
ability to mimic southern negroes. Coming originally 
from Georgia, he had been a circus rider in Mexico, 
and was considerable of a pistol-shooter, with a good deal 
of bravado about him. When in liquor, if crossed, he 
was a dangerous man. He could assume the air and 
manner of a gentleman, but through all the superficial 
polish the circus rider was discernible more or less. 
He had considerable native ability, though not much 
education, and spoke the Spanish language well. After 
an employment by William A. Leidersdorff to collect 
hides and tallow, he became a partner of Frank Ward 
in the fall of 1847, the firm being W^ard & Smith, deal- 
ers in general merchandise. In the capacity of first 
auctioneer in Yerba Buena, he built himself up and 
made money, as any man could do in those days who 
was industrious. He prospered, and secured the re- 
spect and confidence of the people. In 1848 he mar- 
ried the widow of William S. Hinckley, and in 1849 or 
'50 moved to Martinez, and built a residence about a 
mile from the town. Up to the latter part of '53 he 
behaved very well. Being an accurate shot with a pis- 
tol he could knock the head off a bird or break the neck 
of a bottle at any reasonable distance. One day after 
he had been drinking with Jose Antonio Sanchez and 
some others, he requested Sanchez to stand off about 
twenty paces and put a bottle on his head, and let him 



THE FIRST AUCTIONEER. 259 

break it with a pistol shot. The latter complied, and 
Smith shattered the bottle, though intoxicated at the 
time. The performance was repeated several times. 
Fond of using his pistol, he finally committed suicide 
at his home in Martinez in 1854. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

Remembrances of Doiia Encarnacion Altamirano — The Discovery of Blossom 
Rock — -An East Indian Trader Strikes on the Rock — Gets oft without 
Material Injury — Respect of Native California Children for their Parents — 
The Cigarito Smoking Habit — Cases in Point — Wine Drinking Permitted — 
Filial Affection — Further Concerning Native California Habits — Relating to 
Courtship and Marriage — The Division of Horses into Caponeras on Account 
of Color — Incidents connected with a Bridal Party — The Dull Season — Camp- 
ing on Goat Island — How the Island derived the Name — The Author's Losing 
Speculation — Old Jack Fuller as Cook and Story Teller. 

Don Martinez became comandante of the Presidio 
of San Francisco in 1819, succeeding Don Luis Ar- 
guello, who was appointed provisional governor, and 
with his family lived at the Presidio. In latQr years I 
had a conversation with one of his daughters. Dona 
Encarnacion Altamirano, who, at the time above men- 
tioned, was twelve years old. She remembers that 
there was a little baliiarte, or fortification, of triangular 
shape, located near the intersection of Van Ness avenue 
and the bay shore, at what is now known as Black 
Point. The fort, she said, was mounted with a cannon 
pointing to the bay. There were no barracks at the 
place, no buildings of any kind. There was no guard, 
only this single gun mounted on the baluartc. I asked 
the object of the arrangement, and she replied it was 
intended for defense, to be availed of in the event ves- 
sels of an enemy succeeded in getting past P^ort Point 
and coming up the bay. The little fort was in charge 
of the comandante, and the artillery was kept in good 



BALUARTE AT BLACK POINT IN 1819. 26 1 

condition. It remained there for several years, and up 
to the time the family removed from the Presidio to the 
Pinole Rancho. The gun was occasionally fired at the 
celebration of some festival, the powder for this pur- 
pose being brought from the Presidio. Shot for the 
gun was kept near it at the fortification, ready for use 
in case of necessity. 

In 1S26 the ship " Blossom," a British man-of- 
war, Captain Beachy, visited the bay of San P rancisco, 
and remained several weeks. The captain made the 
first discovery of the sunken obstruction to navigation 
known as Blossom Rock, which he named after his ship, 
and laid it down on his chart. I have known of a 
number of vessels getting on this rock. In 1830 the 
East India ship " Seringapatam" came into the bay for 
supplies. She was loaded with East India goods — silks 
and other articles adapted to the Mexican trade, being 
bound to ports in Mexico, She remained a week or two. 
In leavincj, she struck on the rock, and hunor there until 
a change of tide; when she floated off and proceeded on 
her voyage. Being built of teak wood in the strongest 
manner, the ship received no injury. She was com- 
manded by English officers, who were attired in the 
East India Company uniform. The crew was composed 
entirely of Malays. It will be remembered that a few 
years since, Blossom Rock was blown up and removed 
under the direction of engineer A. von Schmidt. 

One of the characteristics of Californians in early 
days was the great respect which the children showed 



262 COMMON USE OF TOBACCO. 

their parents. I have observed instances of this def- 
erence ; among which, the son coming into the presence 
of his parents, in their own house, removed his hat 
with poHteness, and always remained standing, perhaps 
in conversation with them, until he was asked to be 
seated. 

The Californians were not given to drinking, 
though fond of tobacco smoking, the habit being uni- 
versal amonofst the men. Sometimes the ladies of 
Southern California indulged in smoking in order to be 
sociable ; and some of the women of Northern California 
were addicted to the same habit — a few among the lower 
classes. The Mexican ladies, however, were fond of 
smoking ; the rich as well as the poor. This was the 
custom in their own country, and those who came to 
California brought it with them. The cigaritos which 
they smoked were small, made of delicate paper, and 
the tobacco very fine. 

The Mexican as well as the California ladies were 
noted for their small feet and hands, which is a charac- 
teristic of the Spanish race. The Mexican ladies when 
smoking were in the habit of holding the cigarito be- 
tween the thumb and finger ; the rich using a gold or 
silver holder, to prevent staining the fingers with the 
tobacco, and the poorer classes a holder made of 
garuuza, or fine deer skin — with two little pockets, into 
which they slipped the thumb and finger. Holding up 
the cigarito, as they placed it in the mouth or removed 
it, they displayed their pretty little hands to advantage. 



FILIAL RESPECT. 263 

the fingers extended with an air of coquetry, all very 
graceful and becoming, and quite captivating to the 
observer. 

But, however habituated to the indulgence, no boy 
or man, though the latter might be sixty years of age, 
ever smoked in the presence of his parents. I re- 
member this regulation was conformed to while Don 
Ygnacio Peralta was one time visiting his father Don 
Luis, at the latter's house in the Pueblo of San Jose ; 
the son, then over sixty years, standing until the old 
gentleman requested him to be seated. During a 
long interview, in which they talked continually, the 
son, though ill at ease, refrained from smoking ; the 
father meanwhile enjoying himself happily in that 
way ; but such a breach of decorum and filial respect 
as for the other to smoke at the same time was not to 
be thought of. If a young man was smoking in the 
street, and met an old man coming along, so great was 
the feeling of respect and deference for the latter, that 
the former would cease smoking and throw his cigar 
away, and politely raise his hat in salutation, whether 
they were acquainted or total strangers. The vaqueros 
and other servants of the house showed the same polite- 
ness to their masters, always removing their hats when 
they came into their presence, and never smoking be- 
fore them. 

Notions of propriety and morality were so strict 
among the people that young people engaged to be 
married were permitted little association by themselves. 



264 METHODS OF COURTSHIP. 

They were scarcely allowed to see each other or 
to converse together, except in the presence of their 
parents. This was my own experience in an engage- 
ment of over two years. The courtship was usually ar- 
ranged by the mother of the young lady, or sometimes 
a favorite aunt was sought and first consulted by the 
young gentleman who desired the daughter or niece in 
marriage. If the suitor was considered a worthy person 
bv the father, the young lady was communicated with, 
after which a request in writing came from the young- 
man to the father. If the application was deemed sat- 
isfactory he sent a written reply. Time, however, was 
taken for consideration, and no haste displayed. It 
would be an excellent thing if, in this respect, the old 
Spanish custom, having so much of simplicity and 
purity, prevailed to day. Although the young ladies 
were not so highly educated as at the present time, yet 
on o'oinir into a familv one could see at a olance that 
artlessness, affection and modesty were the character- 
istics of the feminine portion thereof, and these merits 
in my estimation transcend all others. 

In November, 183S, having been invited to a wed- 
ding, together with Captain Hinckley I crossed the bay 
in the schooner " Isabel," and arrived just before sun- 
set of a clear November afternoon, at the embarca- 
deroon San Antonio creek, (East Oakland.) Reach- 
ing the landing, we were met by a younger brother of 
the bridegroom, mounted on a splendid black horse, both 
horse and rider being attired in the richest manner and 



WEDDING CAVALCADES. 265 

presenting a very attractive sight. At the same time 
there appeared upon the brow of the hill, perhaps 
twenty yards away, a full caponera of palominos, or 
cream-colored horses, for the wedding cavalcade. They 
raised their heads, pausing a moment, startled it seemed 
at sight of the vessel, and as the bright sun struck full 
upon them, their colored bodies, of light golden hue, 
and dazzling manes, shone resplendent. The picture 
has ever since remained in my mind. They were at- 
tended by vaqueros, who cast their lassos and secured 
two of them for Captain Hinckley and myself, we hav- 
ing brought our saddles with us, a necessity in those 
days, though you were a guest. The bridegroom had 
two caponeras for the use of the bridal party; one of 
canelos, or red roan horses, and the other of twenty- 
five black horses. Horses of mixed colors were better 
animals than those of a single color. 

On returning from the wedding, which took place 
at the Mission of San Jose, as the bridal party ap- 
proached the mansion at Pinole, a salute of welcome 
was fired by the father of the bridegroom from a brass 
cannon, which he, as a military man, kept mounted in 
the little plaza in front of his dwelling for the pro- 
tection of the family. 

The spring was the dullest season of the year, as 
the cattle then became quite poor, and not many were 
killed. Cattle were killed for the use of the rancheros 
in winter. They were in good condition until spring. 
The merchants made collections of hides and tallow 



266 HISTORIC GOATS. 

which accumulated from the slaughter for farm use. 
In the spring of 1840, business being quiet, I took 
the schooner " Isabel" over to Yerba Buena Island, 
now Goat Island, with four men, and camped there 
for a week ; the men cutting the scrub oak on the 
Island, and filling up the schooner. Permission had 
been asked of the alcalde to go over and cut wood, 
which he had granted. I took my fishing tackle and 
books along. While the men were cutting wood, I 
fished from the shore, or read in my tent, and passed 
a week very pleasantly. 

In 1842 or '43 Spear and Fuller having obtained 
possession of five or six goats from Captain Nye, of the 
ship " Fama," placed them upon Yerba Buena Island, 
by permission of the alcalde. They found subsistence 
there, multiplied rapidly, and in 1848 and '49 amounted 
in number to severalhundred. From this circumstance 
the place derived its name of Goat Island. 

Spear would occasionally send over to the Island 
to get a kid or two for his table, the meat being very 
palatable, and would invite the neighbors to partake. 

In the fall of '48 and the early part of '49, after the 
rush of adventurers to California in the gold excite- 
ment, some of them amused themselves by going over 
to Goat Island and shooting the goats. Meat was 
scarce, goat meat was considered acceptable, and com- 
manded a good price. Spear and Fuller caused notices 
to be published in the newspapers forbidding the killing 
of the goats by trespassers ; but those who thought it 



OLD JACK FULLER. 267 

fine sport to shoot the goats scampering over the island, 
wholly wild and untamed, gave no heed to the notices. 

After this commenced, Spear said to me one day, 
" Give me my price for my half interest in the goats 
on the Island." I replied that I did not need them. He 
said that he did not want to be bothered, and I had 
better take them, whereupon, to oblige the old gentle- 
men, I gave him a previously stipulated sum for the 
goats. It proved a poor investment, for nearly all the 
goats were killed by the reckless shooters, and not a 
cent of value did I ever get out of the speculation. 

Old Jack Fuller, by which name he was familiary 
known, was an Englishman, and an excellent cook. 
He had been employed by Spear in that capacity. He 
was also a butcher, and on special occasions, such as 
festivals, acted as caterer, and could get up an excel- 
lent dinner or feast when required. He was well liked 
by everybody, and met with great success in this line of 
business. He came originally with Spear to the coast 
in the schooner " Thaddeus," from Boston, in 1823. He 
owned property on Kearny street, cornering on Sacra- 
mento and California streets, which became valuable 
about the time of his death. Old Jack was always 
good natured, and never dangerous, but would occa- 
sionally imbibe too much and run off the track. While 
in this condition he was given to the most astounding 
stories, of an innocent kind, however, and that never 
harmed anybody. 



268 THE RAIN STORM OF AUGUST, 1 844. 

In the fall of 1843 I erected on the beach, between 
Clay and California streets, about midway between 
Montgomery and Sansome, a large hide shed, roughly 
built of boards, securely inclosed and convenient, so at 
high tide the vessels that brought hides to the place 
could come right to the door of the house and deliver 
them. In the summer of '44 I had about 4,000 hides 
collected there, awaiting shipment. On the afternoon 
of the iSth of August there came a heavy rain, which 
lasted continuously for eighteen hours, quite as severe 
as rains in December or January, very remarkable for 
a summer in California. x\s the house was not built for 
protection against the rains, but only for summer use, 
my hides got thoroughly wet through, as did those of 
other persons who had houses near and at other points 
on the bay. I was obliged to take them all out and 
dry them on the beach. 

When Captain Grimes was settled at Sacramento 
on his ranch he still made his headquarters at Verba 
Buena with Spear, and when here occupied Kent Hall. 

The captain, though temperate, and never getting 
the worse for liquor, was fond of a glass now and then, 
as most old captains are, and always kept a liquor case 
well supplied with the choicest brands of liquors. This 
was known to his friends, and it was always considered 
a treat to join the old gentleman in a glass. Kent 
Hall and the liquor case became quite a by-word among 
his associates. Various expedients were used to get the 
captain into good humor preliminary to taking advan- 



HOWARD S STRATEGY. 299 

tage of the hospitality, and many purely original yarns 
were given out as sober fact for his entertainment and 
edification. Looking sternly over his spectacles at the 
narrator he would refuse to lend a willing ear, or would 
apply to their talk some emphatic and disparaging epi- 
thet. He had traveled extensively over the world, was 
intelligent and well read, sensible, a man of liberal 
ideas, and not easily humbugged. It was therefore 
necessary for those who had designs upon his liquor 
case to sharpen up their wits and present very plausi- 
ble, comical stories to interest the old captain suffici- 
ently to persuade him to the point. William D. M, 
Howard and William G. Rae were the chief leaders in 
these movements. They would always succeed in bring- 
ing the old gentlemen round by telling something a 
little more ridiculous or astonishing than had been be- 
fore related ; and when the liquor ca.se was opened — to 
their satisfaction and delight, those who were near at 
hand were also invited. 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

Camping at tlie Ocean-beach — Strawberry Patches — Don Francisco Guerrero gives 
a Granfl " Blow-out " — Howard amuses an Audience — His Talent as an 
Amateur Actor — Strawberry Campings Popular — Paty becomes Prominent 
in Business Transactions— He establishes a Line of Packets between San 
Francisco and Honolulu — His Hundredth \'oyage between San Francisco 
and Honolulu Celebrated — Theodore Cordua arrives — Becomes a Mexican 
Citizen, and obtains a Grant of Land — He is a Genial Companion— Wm. C. 
Flugge's Movements — Change in Character of the Native Californians — 
Reasons Therefor — Litigation involved by Change of Government — The 
Natives Fleeced by Sharpers — Demoralizing Effect of their Outrageous 
Treatment — An Interview with Widow Paty — A Coincidence of Names — 
More of Captain and Mrs. Paty — The Husband had been Christened 
" Commodore " by the Hawaiian King — Discriminating between Debtors— A 
Generous-hearted Creditor — The Hunters and Trappers Reliable Men — 
Wilkes and Paty — The Incident of a Dancing Party. 

Little festivals and recreations among neighbors, 
without much formality, were usual with the California 
families, there being scarcely any amusements. On the 
hills toward the ocean, between the Presidio and Fort 
Point, and south as far as Lake Lobos, there were laree 
patches of wild strawberries, which grew very plenti- 
fully and ripened in the spring. At that time families 
would resort to the place for the purpose of gathering 
and partaking of the fruit, camping out for several 
days at a time ; many coming from the surrounding 
country north and south of the bay, and as far as So- 
noma and Santa Clara. This innocent and healthful 
recreation was a great enjoyment. 



STRAWBERRY CAMPING PARTIES. 27 I 

I joined a party gathering strawberries, in 1844. 
the camp consisting of the famiHes of W'm. G. Rae, 
Captain Richardson, Nathan Spear. Captain Prado 
Mesa, Don Francisco Guerrero, Bob Ridley and some 
others. Other camps were scattered about in the neigh- 
borhood. The little village of Verba Buena was nearly 
depopulated for the time. We were absent abr)ut a 
week. 

Before the camp broke up that year, Don Fran- 
cisco Guerrero gave a grand merienda or picnic, in a 
little valley north of our camp, looking toward the 
ocean. He provided, among other things, several bul- 
locks and calves, which were prepared as came asada 
— meat roasted on spits over a bed of coals this being 
much superior to other modes of cooking the meat. 
Guerrero invited to this festival all the people who were 
camped on the strawberry grounds, numbering several 
hundred men, women and children ; and they enjoyed 
themselves heartily. Rae, Spear and myself insisted 
on furnishingthe wine fortheoccasion, although Guerrero 
had intended doing it himself. While camping, we were 
visited by W. D. M. Howard and Henry Melius, sup- 
percargos and agents of vessels, and by other super- 
cargoes and captains of vessels in port at the time. 
Their visit added greatly to the variety and enjoyment 
of the occasion. Most prominent among those furnish- 
ing fun and amusement for the camp was Howard. 
One evening he retired into a tent, and, unknown to 
the ladies, blackened his face with burnt cork, put on a 



272 A CELEBRATED NAVIGATOR. 

crushed hat and some old clothes, and in this guise ap- 
peared among the company as a Southern negro ; act- 
ing out the character to perfection. At first, the ladies 
were frightened, and it was some time before his iden- 
tity was disclosed. On another evening he appeared as 
a down-east Yankee, dressed in the peculiar garments 
suited to that character, and created a great deal of di- 
version by the representation. 

On the way home, after the breaking up of the 
camp, our special company halted at the Mission Do- 
lores. Here Guerrero gave a baile in the hall of the 
Mission, in which all participated and had a grand 
time, winding up our strawberry festival. Evenings at 
the camp were spent in singing, telling stories and 
playing twenty-one and whist. 

These gatherings commenced with the first settle- 
ment of the country by the Spaniards, the Indians 
making known the place the strawberries grew. After 
the custom of camping had been inaugurated, it was 
regularly kept up year after year, and continued until 
the change of government and the country became 
thickly settled. 

Captain John Paty first visited this coast in the 
schooner "Clarion" from Boston, in 1836. This 
schooner was afterward the " California." She was 
sold to Governor Alvarado for the use of the govern- 
ment. Captain Paty, who had been a sailor all his life, 
was probably as good a navigator as ever lived. He 
had visited nearly all parts of the world, and was very 



HONOLULU PACKETS. 273 

popular in California, much liked by everybody ; also 
highly regarded by thtt officers of the local government. 
The government employed him several times, with his 
vessel. He took Micheltorena and his troops from 
California to San Bias. Subsequently Senor Castil- 
lero, in April 1846, went in Paty's vessel to San Bias, 
as commissioner, sent by Governor Pico to treat with 
the home government on some business. Pat) was 
fond of letter writing, and in his communications with 
friends at the East he spoke well of the climate, soil, 
advantages and capabilities of California, and dwelt 
upon the benefit which would result if the American 
government should obtain possession, and what a mis- 
fortune it would be if it should fall into the hands of 
any other power. After the change of government he 
and some others started a line of packets between San 
Francisco and Honolulu. They afterward combined 
with J. C. Merrill & Co. in the business. His line was 
the first started between these places. Captain Paty 
commanded one of the vessels, and his vessel was so 
popular as a carrier, that he took a great many persons 
between these ports. They would wait to go with him. 
he being a favorite. On his arrival in San Francisco, 
on the completion of his hundredth voyage between 
this port and the Islands, about 1865 or '66, the event 
was celebrated by his many good friends in San 
Francisco by a banquet given in his honor. On his 
return to Honolulu, a similar celebration took place, in 
which his family, then at Honolulu, joined. 



2 74 '^"^^'O GERMANS. 

Rae, Spear and Grimes were especial friends of 
Paty ; he being, as has been said, one of the circle of 
whist players at Rae's rooms. The captain's wife and 
two children accompanied him on some of the trips of 
the vessel to San Francisco in 1842 and '43. 

Theodore Cordua, a Prussian, came to the coast 
in the " Don Quixote," from Honolulu, as a passenger 
in 1842, his first visit here. He was an old acquaint- 
ance of Captain Sutter in his native country. When 
Sutter settled in the Sacramento valley, he corresponded 
with Cordua and urged him to come here. After his 
arrival he visited Sutter. Through the latter's influ- 
ence he was granted eleven leagues of land by the 
Mexican government, first having become naturalized. 
The grant was made to him by Micheltorena. The 
tract in the Sacramento valley known as the Cordua 
ranch is a part of his grant. He was a large, portly 
man, and a general favorite with everybody. He spoke 
excellent English. Whenever he came to Yerba Buena 
he was much sought after by the people, on account of 
his companionable qualities, being a great whist player, 
and very fond of the game. 

There was another German, William C. Flugge, 
who came in 1843, and went to Sutter's place. He was 
intelligent, and a thorough business man, but exceedingly 
high-tempered ; was an intimate friend of Cordua, 
both being from the same country. P"lugge opened a 
store at New Helvetia in company with Sutter. He 
knew nothing of Spanish on his arrival, but by diligent 



WEALTHY CALIFORMANS. 2/5 

Study, and intercourse with the Indians about the fort, 
(man) of whom were old Mission Indians, and had 
learned Spanish) he became proficient in that language, 
and wrote and spoke it fluently. In 1844 he went 

to Los Angeles and established himself in business 
with James McKinlay. At that time I bought of him 
for $40 the fifty vara lot at the northwest corner of Cali- 
fornia and Montgomery streets, where Wells, Fargo & 
Co.'s office was situated for many years. 

The Californians of the present day are a good 
deal degenerated, as compared with their fathers — the 
old stock, as I found them when I first came to the 
country, and for several years succeeding, up to the 
time of the change of government in 1846. I distinctly 
remember how they impressed me, when I first saw 
them, as a boy in 1831 and 1833 — '^ ""^^ce of men of large 
stature and of fine, handsome appearance. There are 
several causes for the deterioration in these people 
which is now so apparent, the chief of which is the un- 
just treatment they received from the American gov- 
ernment, in the matter of their landed property. Before 
the change of government, they were in full and happy 
possession of their ranchos, under the titles emanating 
from the Spanish and Mexican governments ; and con- 
sidered themselves entirely secure in their properties. 

They were then a wealthy people, probably more 
so than the people of any other Spanish country, ac- 
cording to the number of the population ; that is, their 
average wealth was greater than that of the people of 



276 THE ORIGINAL SETTLERS. 

Spain, or any of the countries peopled from Spain orig- 
inally. For a time after California passed into the 
hands of the United States, their wealth increased, 
owing to the demand for horses and cattle (of which 
their wealth consisted) for the supply of the troops that 
were sent here, and of the United States squadron and 
vessels, and ships of other nations that began to arrive. 

After the discovery of gold, when the people came 
in large numbers, this good fortune continued for a time, 
until the Californians had troubles in regard to their 
land titles, arising first from the inroads of squatters, 
who trespassed upon their ranchos, took possession of 
considerable portions of the land, drove off cattle, inter- 
fered with the grazing, annoyed and despoiled the 
ranchos, and invaded the rights of the possessors. 

The first settlers had to fight with the Indians for 
possession of the land, and some of them lost their lives 
in the conflicts. The treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo 
recognized the rights of the Californians to their lands 
under the Mexican titles ; but by subsequent legislation 
of Congress they were required to prove their titles be- 
fore the United States Land Commission and the Courts. 
This was an unnecessary hardship imposed upon them, 
and involved them in litigation and expense, which was 
a new and perplexing experience, even if no unfair 
advantage had been taken of them. They did not un- 
derstand our language, and in order to be properly re- 
presented before the commission and the courts, they 
were obliged to employ American counsel. Many of 



COMMODORE PATY's WIDOW. 2 77 

these lawyers were quite unscrupulous, and took advan- 
tage of the Californians, who were honest and simple- 
hearted. Where they could not pay ready money for 
the legal services which were charged at a high rate, 
the lawyers required promissory notes of them. When 
the notes became due, and remained unpaid, the holders 
attached their land and obtained postession of it. The 
depredations of the squatters continued and of others 
also, who by one means or another had obtained pos- 
session ; or the owners were so much involved in efforts 
todefendthemselves that they becamedispirited, crushed, 
poor and miserable. The sons of noble families grew 
up in want and poverty ; became dissipated and demor- 
alized. Thus the old stock rapidly deteriorated and 
went into decay. The subject of the land troubles of 
the Californians will be further alluded to. 

A few old California families have retained a consid- 
erable portion of their property. They have maintained 
their dignity and pride. They are the same as in the 
earlier days, unchanged, kind, hospitable and honorable. 
I may mention as among these exceptions, Don Fran- 
cisco Galindo, the owner of the Galindo Hotel in Oak- 
land. His father died a few years ago, nearly one hun- 
dred years of age. 

Staying recently at San Diego, I met the widow 
of Captain John Paty. She was on a visit to one 
of lier married daughters who resides there, the wife 
of Lieutenant Benson, of the United States army. 
Another daughter is married to a lieutenant in the 



278 COMMODORE PATy's WIDOW. 

United States navy, and lives at Vallejo. I remarked 
to the mother that she was well represented in the 
American government. I found her a well preserved 
lady of over sixty, plump and fine looking. She had 
recently arrived from Honolulu, near which she still 
resided. The lady has a beautiful home in Nuanu 
valley, at the foot of which is Honolulu. 

Mrs. Paty came to the Islands the first time in 
1834, in the brig "Avon," of about one hundred and 
eighty tons, commanded by her husband. In 1836, Mrs. 
Paty returned to Boston with her husband. On this 
trip the bark was loaded with sperm-oil, from the wreck 
of an American whaleship. The outer harbor of Hon- 
olulu is nothing more than an open roadstead, exposed 
to southerly winds. The whaler driven from her moor- 
ing there on to a reef, was unable to get off, and finally 
went to pieces, the cargo of oil being saved. While 
the " Don Quixote" was moored at long wharf in Bos- 
ton, on this trip, the bark " Cervantes" was at the same 
pier, the two vessels almost touching each other. This 
was thought to be a singular coincidence, meeting of 
barks having such memorable names,^ — one the actor 
and the other the writer, so renowned throughout the 
civilized world. The two captains were proud of their 
vessels, and both became great friends during their 
stay in Boston. Mrs. Paty made her home at Hon- 
olulu after 1837, and while her husband was engaged in 
trading between the Islands, Valparaiso and Callao, and 
the coast of California. In 1842 she accompanied him 



COMMODORE PATV's WIDOW. 279 

from Honolulu, and arrived at Monterey about June. 
She went in the vessel south and back again to 
Monterey, arriving there in October, 1842, just after 
Commodore Jones had taken and given it up, as belore 
described. She was from Charlestown, Massachusetts ; 
a woman of fine character, good education, of great 
intelligence and with excellent conversational powers. 
I think she was the third American lady who came to 
this coast; Mrs. T. O. Larkin and Mrs. Nathan 
Spear preceding her. She was a pioneer of whom the 
country might well be proud. These ladies being the 
only American women on the coast at that time, were 
treated with the greatest courtesy and distinction by 
the officers of the United States squadron. 

On arriving at Monterev, she was invited to the 
flag-ship, and entertained in the pleasantest manner. 
The invitation was several times repeated, the presence 
of the ladies being considered a great compliment to 
those aboard the vessel. It certainly was a most 
agreeable surprise and gratification to the officers to find 
in this remote part of the world some of their country- 
women, so refined and intelligent. 

I was present on one of the occasions aboard the 
flag-ship, when Mrs. Paty remarked in a facetious 
manner, " What a pity. Commodore Jones, that you gave 
up this beautiful department, after having taken pos- 
session." He replied that he would gladly have kept 
it, but he was compelled to relinguish it ; that he 
took it in order not to be behind time, in case the 



28o COMMODORE PATY'S WIDOW. 

British contemplated a similar movement, supposing at 
the time that war existed between the United States and 
Mexico ; but he had found this was an error ; having 
no good reason for holding on, he gave it up. When 
I told Mrs. Paty, at my last interview, that I should 
give a sketch of her husband in an account of Cali- 
fornia and its people, she expressed her gratification- 
and said she hoped I would do him full justice, for he 
was deserving of everything I could say in his favor. 
She added, "You must call him Commodore Paty, and 
not simply Captain Paty." 

In February, 1846, the king of the Sandwich 
Islands conferred on Captain Paty the title of Commo- 
dore, officially, and he became to some extent the 
representative of the Sandwich Islands to protect their 
interests on this coast. He wore on special occasions 
the Hawaiian uniform. The merchants of San Fran- 
cisco recognized and confirmed his title of Commodore. 
Among themselves they bestowed on him the title of 
Commodore of all the fleet trading between the Islands 
and this port. 

We was a kind-hearted man. I never knew him to 
refuse a favor to any one, though often he complied, 
when appealed to, much against his own interests. As 
his aofent and business man, I was mindful of his 
customers — as to their reliability, and while always ready 
to trust native Californians for whatever goods they 
wanted, knowing they would be sure to pay for them, I 
found it was not best to trust such foreign residents as 



COMMODORE PATY S WIDOW. 251 

were of doLibtful financial responsibility. Men of this 
character would come to me and ask for credit, 
which I was compelled to refuse. They would then 
sometimes go to Paty himself, stating their case; and 
he. full of the milk of human kindness, could not find it 
in his heart to refuse them. He would call me aside 
and say he thought we should accommodate them. 1 
would remonstrate, and declare that we might as well 
charge the items to profit and loss account at once ; 
that it was about the same as giving the goods away ; 
that I knew it was for his interest not to, but if he gave 
me a peremptory order to deliver them, I would do so. 
" Well," he would say, " I hate to refuse ; I think you 
had better." The articles were delivered accordingly, 
and that was the last we knew of the transaction, ex- 
cept as it remained on the books. 

On some of these occasions Mrs. Paty was present, 
and. being of a firmer disposition than her husband in 
business matters, would intimate to the captain that it 
was foolish to interfere in behalf of the impecunious 
customers. 

The doubtful purchasers were not those who had 
settled and built up homes, but mostly runaway sailors, 
some of whom used to qo to the redwoods about the 
bay and to the redwoods of Santa Cruz and Monterey 
to cut lumber for building purposes, there being no 
saw-mills in the department. They were rather uncer- 
tain and roving. Few of them settled down and became 
permanent residents. The)' generally spent money as 



282 REMINISCENCES. 

fast as it was earned. The hunters and trappers who 
came across the mountains and remained in CaHfornia 
were of a different type ; and though lacking in the 
graces of civih'zation, were honorable, and true to their 
word, sober, and industrious in the line of their occupa- 
tion (most of them continuing as hunters and trappers), 
and we could trust them con'fidently, knowing if they 
w'anted goods they would pay. 

At the time of Commodore Wilkes' stay in the 
harbor of San Francisco, Captain Paty was here with 
his vessel. Having traveled extensively all over the 
world, and being an old sailor and splendid navigator, 
Wilkes enjoyed his society. Many of the places 
where Wilkes had been and others to which he in- 
tended to go. Paty had visited. He often went aboard 
the flag-ship to spend a few hours, when the two navi- 
gators would interchange ideas. Wilkes obtained in- 
formation Irom him in regard to the Pacific ocean and 
its islands, and the places at which he intended to 
touch. Paty was pleased with Wilkes because of his 
scientific acquirements, the old commodore making the 
interviews instructive, as he always did to the few for 
whom he felt respect and in whom he had confidence. 

Mrs. Paty recalled to my mind, at San Diego, an 
incident which took place at the grand entertainment 
given by the citizens of Monterey, upon the restoration 
of the town to the Mexican authorities, after the capture 
by Commodore Jones. Captain Armstrong, of the flag- 
ship, was a heavy man, and Captain Paty was small 



REMINISCENCES. 283 

and wiry. Both were fond of dancing, and there was 
an animated contest between them to see who could 
waltz the longest, to the amusement of the company. 
They continued on the floor a long time, the California 
ladies seeming never to tire of dancing. Paty secured 
a victory over his big rival, who succumbed to fatigue. 
Another incident was also brought to mind. When 
Micheltorena and his troops were conveyed to San 
Bias, calling at Monterey, she quit the vessel before it 
left San Pedro, and it was my pleasure to convey Mrs. 
Paty to Los Angeles, where she was to remain at 
William Wolfskill's house, awaiting the captain's 
return from Mexico. It was a beautiful, balmy 
morning in March, when the season in that part 
of the country is much more advanced than further 
north. We traveled in the old-fashioned primitive 
carriage or wagon, with solid wheels, drawn by oxen. 
The gafian, or driver, a Californian, was mounted 
on a horse, and rode by the side of the oxen, armed 
with a slender stick with a sharp pointed spike attached 
to the end, for the purpose of urging the creatures 
along. Being a light hearted young man he beguiled 
the monotony of the journey by singing sentimental 
songs in the vSpanish language, in a melodious voice, 
which were also quite entertaining to us. The vehicle 
was comfortably furnished, and we were well provided 
with eatables — chickens, hams, etc., the journey occupy- 
ing the whole day. I took the precaution to instruct 
the driver to supply himself with some grease for the 



REMINISCENCES. 284 

axles, to prevent the sharp squeaking and screeching 
which otherwise would have been heard for several 
miles. When I last saw Mrs. Paty, the novelty of her 
experience at that time was referred to, — ^a refined Bos- 
ton lady traveling in such rude fashion through a wild 
country. We had a good laugh over the reminiscences. 

Wolfskin, of Los Angeles, above mentioned, had 
a vineyard which was then in good bearing, and second 
only in importance to that of Vigne's. 

During her stay at Los Angeles Mrs. Paty visited 
an Indian woman living in the neighborhood, 130 years 
of age, and found her well preserved and in possession 
of her faculties, but her face was extremely wrinkled, 
and resembled a piece of dried and crinkled parchment. 
She presented the appearance of a living mummy. She 
recalled the arrival of the first missionaries to the coast, 
being then a full-grown woman. Mrs. Paty had also 
found at Santa Barbara, previously, an Indian woman 
1 16 years of age. 

Mrs. Paty was fully as intelligent as her talented hus- 
band. She wrote many letters to her friends East, 
gentlemen as well as ladies, describing the country 
here, and setting forth its beauties, thus doing a great 
deal to make it known to the rich and influential 
citizens of Boston and elsewhere. She did as much in 
this respect, and did as well, as any man could have 
done. Prior to my wife's marriage, she and Mrs. Paty 
were friends, and in 1849 Mrs. Paty lived with us 
while her husband was away on one of his voyages. 



REMINISCENCES. 285 

Recently they met at San Diego, and were delighted to 
see each other and talk over old times. Since Cap- 
tain Paty's death great respect and polite attention by 
the captains of steamers and vessels on this coast, who 
held the commodore in high honor, has been accorded 
his widow, who is much gratified at this kindly regard 
for his memory. She has a son at Honolulu, John 
Henry Paty, a partner in the banking house of Bishop 
& Company. 



rii.xr ri"R wwi. 

A ScU'rtsscrlivo \\on\;\n, lun liiwl ;v)ul llono>i n>c «.";\vniv;\l Season — The 
Amusement v>f Urvakinji l\jJ3j-sheUs o\xm- the Ikwvl — K4Hertau\n»ents of the 
(.'arnivixl St^xsiMX- A>hservrtnix> of the IK>ly l>a\-s--An Kwninj; on Ikuxnl tlK" 
" Alert," with lixptain \Vn\. H, l*helj>s The l^xtler s<^"**' «" Aivount of his 
Jownu^y U> Jerus;\lem Mis Hijjh Appixvirttion of the Visit- Captrtin I'helps 
as a llvtnter- He »>(\en Writes Kast in Pnxise v^f California— He also iKVomes 
a Favv>rite with CotunuxU^re Wilkes -lUvston the First to Ixarn of the 
t.'o«ntrY"s \ast Res»M\>ws, 

Mrs. InMUuni .irri\i\l in \ (mI\i Inion.i, troin Mis- 
souri. .iKnil 1S4.;. with hor husband and a lars^o lamily o\ 
children. I nuMition her tusi. .is slio w.is unmistakably 
the luMvl ol the taniilv. a lar^^o. powerful wvMuan. un- 
cultivated, but well-nie.uung aiul very industrious. Her 
word was law. and her huslxmd stood in becomii\j^ awe 
of her. Their ohildnMi wcmc respeciablv brought up. 
iho family beinj; supportcvl bv sewini:. washing-. in>n- 
injv ; raising chickens, turkeys and ducks. ! trusted 
her for jLioods frtH|uemly. not knowing, or caring much, 
whether ihe\ were ever p.iivl for : but thev .dways 
were. She w.is .u\ honest, i^ood \voni.u\. .md while not 
reguriltHl as .in i qu.d bv the bettor cultivated and n\ore 
arist«.xTatic ladies, she w.is .ilw.iys pleasantly received 
in their houses ; as foreign Kidies weiv scarce and class 
distinctions not rigidly observed. 

The carnival festival which is celebrvittn.! with merri- 
ment and revelry in Catholic countries during the week 
pirocvling Lent, w.is observed by the Californians. 



IIAKMI.I'.SS AMI'SIMI'N rs. 2Sj 

rii(\ li.id various little (•mcri.iiinucnis ; .hmoiil; ilifui. 
<l.iiU'iii!L; |t.irlics ; a supper sers'ed late in t lie e\ cninL; l><" 
iii!:^ one ol the aL;ri'('al>l<' leatiiics i)| these j^atheiines. 

Ihe ( '.ilitornians niaile the most ol all their lestivals, 
,Mui. .iceoitliuL; to their usual hahils. oi)si'r\ eil this one 
luIK . L^iv in_e theniseKcs up to anuisenient duiine its 
eont iniiance. 

( )ne ol the anuisenients the (, '.ililoiiuans hrouglu 
with iheni Ironi Spain ami Mexieo, was the laistoni 
ilurinL; the iarni\al season eaeh year, ol hreakini; upon 
the heails ol the opposit*' sex, ejL^'i; shells lilled with hue 
scraps ol prett\ loloretl siKcror l^oM paper, or with 
cologne water, or some h.u'ui less and .i^reeal tie substance. 
1 1 was in the n.ilure of .i L;ame oi' t riek pl.i\cil upon one 
another, the idt'. I Ixmiil; to eateh the xictim un.iwares, 
and ;^eml\ sm.ish the (\l;_l; •\\^<'\ disti'ihute its eonteiits 
over the he.ul. A L^^'iulem.ui. lor instanee, would lall 
upon .1 l.uK , .uul he pleas.uuK i<Hei\ cd .uid entertamed. 
When his attention was .ntr.ieti\ cK ociupietl. the lair 
hostess would di'ltU tap his he.id with the ej^i;. whieh, 
hreakiuL;. would eo\iM- his he. id with the hri^hl ser.ips 
ol p.iper, or wnh the lolo^ne ; .md a i^ood l.niL;h would 
ensue at the sueeess of the str.itai^i-m. i"he j^cnllem.ui. 
in turn, in e.illini; upon the l.ulies. would l;o provided 
with these ple.is.uu missiles, and would seize opportuni- 
lii-slo hre.ik them on the heads of tin- lair entert. liners. 
'Idiis eustom w.is observed all ihrouoh the dep.iriment. 
It has long ht-en praetieed in Spanish eoimiries. INIiich 
'maneu\ orinL; and various ingenious ileviccs wci'c re- 



288 EGG-BREAKING IN I 84 1. 

sorted to by the ladles to catch the gentlemen off guard, 
in order to accomplish the delicate feat. The gentle- 
men, at the same time, exercised all their tact and skill 
to get a similar advantage. When successful, and the 
ladv or crentleman's head received the contents of the 
egg, whatever company was present joined m the out- 
burst of merriment. Only one egg at a time was 
broken, more than one being considered improper, 
though it was allowable to repeat the process with an- 
other shortly after, if the opportunity could be secured. 

At this festival in 1841, I remember calling upon 
Senorita Dona Encarnacion Briones, living at North 
Beach, who afterw-ard became Mrs. Robert Ridley, a 
sprightly and pretty girl. I was provided with eight 
or ten of these festival eggs, hoping to break some of 
them upon the head of my entertainer, but notwith- 
standing my skillful designing and planning, I entirely 
failed to dispose of one of them, while she. on the con- 
trary, by her wit and cunning, got the advantage of 
me, and broke several upon my head, throwing me off 
guard by her fascinations and feminine artifices. On 
my taking leave, feeling somewhat chagrined at my 
want of success, she playfully remarked, in the most 
graceful manner, " Usted vino a trasquilar, pero fue 
trasquiladoy (You came to shear, but you have been 
shorn.) 

Mrs. Paty, Mrs. Lark in, Mrs. Spear, Mrs, Rae 
and the other ladies took delight in this amusement. 
Wm. D. M. Howard, who was ready for any fun, en- 



FESTIVAL EGGS. 289 

joyed the diversion greatly, and had great satisfaction 
in performing the feat of egg-breaking. The ladies, 
at the same time, regarded it as quite a victory when 
they secured the advantage of him. Henry and Fran- 
cis Melius were considered as ladies' men and were 
very found of this sport. 

The captains, supercargoes and merchants here at 
the time regarded carnival week as a kind of visiting 
season, similar to our New Year's day. The ladies at 
this time were prepared for calls from the gentleman. 
The festival was anticipated with pleasure. At the 
parties which took place egg-breaking was practiced ; 
the contra-dances, waltzes and quadrilles were chiefly 
danced. There was a very ancient dance known as the 
jota, which was more particularly for the older people. 
As the dancing went on, all kinds of devices and schemes 
were contrived to break the eggs, but without interfer- 
ing with the figures. The ladies at these times wore 
their hair unconfined, and flowing gracefully over the 
shoulders, so that when the eggs were broken the co- 
logne should dry quickly, or, if the eggs contained bits 
of gold and silver paper, the bright spangles showered 
upon the hair should present a pretty appearance, as 
it waved about them while they swept through the 
dance. At this time the floor became quite thickly 
strewn with egg-shells, besides being well sprinkled 
with cologne water. 

The season was observed with somewhat more 
display and pretension at Monterey and Los Angeles 
19 



290 HOLY DAYS. 

than elsewhere, the former being the capital, and the 
latter the largest town in the department. Picnic par- 
ties were attended at Point Pinos. near Monterey, the 
people taking with them baskets of choice eatables and 
enjoying the day. The ladies and gentlemen at these 
out-door parties would watch for opportunities to break 
carnival eggs. 

At the festival in 1843, the sport of egg-breaking 
with a party of ladies and gentlemen, in the courtyard, 
went beyond its legitimate bounds ; those engaged 
finally commenced throwing water at each other, Mrs. 
Bennett beinsf the leader of the feminines in the inno- 
vation. The practice of this amusement in the street, 
however, was entirely confined to those of the hum- 
bler position ; and it happened but rarely. 

The three holy days of Lent, J neves Santo, Vier- 
nes Santo, Sab ado de Gloria (Holy Thursday, Good 
Friday and Holy Saturday) were rigidly observed by 
the Californians, the ladies dressing in black, when at- 
tending church during these days. It was the prac- 
tice of the Spanish vessels in the harbor to have 
their yards drawn nearly perpendicular alongside the 
masts, a custom always observed in Spanish countries. 
The vessels of other nationalities here at the time also 
fell in with the observance, out of deference to the re- 
ligious views of the Californians and respect for their 
church. If a vessel neglected to comply, a request was 
made of the captain to do so by the alcalde or prefect. 

I have heard sub-Prefect Guerrero request Captain 



JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 29 1 

Nye, of the brig " Bolivar Liberator," to respect the 
holy days by drawing up the yards of the vessel. 

The ship " Alert" arrived at the beginning of 1840, 
from Boston, in command of Captain William D. 
Phelps, the vessel and cargo consigned to Alfred Rob- 
inson and Henry Melius. Captain Phelps was a Boston 
man, an extensive traveler, and became popular on the 
coast. My brother Robert and myself were once in- 
vited to spend an evening on board the " Alert," when 
Captain Phelps entertained us with an account of his 
travels over the world. He said that while his vessel 
lay in the Mediterranean Sea, he conceived a great de- 
sire to visit Jerusalem — which he found means to gratify, 
so impressed was he with that city and its relation to 
the events narrated in the Scriptures. When in the 
sacred city, his religious emotions overcame him and he 
knelt and prayed several times. On his return to Boston, 
he was impelled to join a church, and had retained his 
connection with it continuously since. At the same time, 
he was not bigoted, but entered heartily in all little fes- 
tivities. He believed his visit to Jerusalem was the most 
valuable part of his experience, and his observations 
there to be worth more than all he had seen in the rest 
of the world. 

Captain Phelps was an excellent shot with the 
rifle, very fond of hunting deer, elk, rabbits, ducks, 
geese, quail and other birds ; and kept his vessel in 
game while in port. Being an epicure, he always se- 
lected the choicest game to supply his table and that 



292 , ONE OF THE EARLY SEA CAPTAINS. 

of his friends^ — Rae, Spear and others. Phelps ap- 
proaching the store on landing of mornings from the 
vessel, would meet Spear on the outside, leaning 
against the gate near the water, looking for the captain. 
The latter would call out, " Good morning, Don 
Natan," (foreigners having adopted the California style 
of addressing each other by their first names) and 
Spear would respond in the same cordial way. Captain 
Phelps had a curious peculiarity of hesitating and 
stammering as he commenced to talk, his right cheek 
quivering rapidly until he got along farther in his 
speech and warmed up a little, when his language came 
fluently and the pulsation of the face ceased. He was 
a good observer, and a man of excellent judgment, and 
also entitled to much credit, with others heretofore men- 
tioned, for making California known on the Atlantic 
side, by letters, recording his observations and exper- 
iences. Thev were well written, and calculated to 
make a good impression in regard to the department of 
California. He frequently read to us portions of the 
letters, and we recognized their truthfulness and his 
happy mode of communicating impressions of the 
country. He also visited Wilkes, and was handsomely 
entertained, and, like Paty, became a favorite of the 
commodore. 

In speaking of those who did so much by their 
correspondence in the early days, to make California 
known, I want to give credit to the ladies and gentle- 
men, especially Mrs. Paty among the former, from Mas- 



DISSEMINATING NEWS OF CALIFORNIA. 293 

sachusetts. The vessels which came to trade in the 
earhest days were almost exclusively from Boston. It 
was from their officers that the best information regard- 
ing the new country was communicated to the National 
authorities, who were thus made alive to the necessity 
of keeping an eye on the distant territory, as having a 
bearing upon the growth and security of the Republic. 
It doubtless led to the frequent visits, and afterward 
almost constant presence, of United Sates vessels of 
war with unquestionably a purpose in view. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Observing Christmas Eve by Turkey Shooting — The Rash and Dangerous Folly 
of Captain Phelps — The Author's Father Arrives on the Coast — Some time 
after, His Mother also — The Former trades between Honolulu and China — 
He opens a Lively Trade on this Coast at Refugio — The Padres chief among 
the Traders — Otter Hunting — The Russians Manifest a Disposition to en- 
croach upon the Rights of the Padres — The Vessel Visited by a .Military 
Official in full dress — The Goods of the Vessel bring in a Golden Harvest — 
How Captain Meek's Plerds Increased from the Gift of Four Cattle — His 
Manner of Improving the Herds — Great Age Changes a Horse's Color — 
Captain Meek makes a Quick Trip with the "Don Quixote" from Callao, 
Peru, to Honolulu— The Ship Noted as a Fast Sailer. 

The New Englanders and other foreigners were 
fond of keeping up the custom of turkey shooting on 
Christmas eve. A shooting match of the kind oc- 
curred on Christmas, 1841, at which were present Wil- 
Ham G. Rae, Captain Phelps, WilHam S. Hinckley, 
Vioget, Nathan Spear, Henry Melius, my brother 
Robert, myself and others ; all taking part in the sport. 
Captain Phelps had left his rifle in the corner of 
Spear's store on the night of shooting the turkeys. 
The second day, the 26th, he came ashore about 
breakfast time. The captain took up the rifle, confi- 
dent that it was not loaded, but had been discharged 
when last in use. Placing a cap on the nipple, he 
told my brother to hold the muzzle against his 
(Phelps') ear and pull the trigger, so that he might 
feel if any air came from the gun and thereby 
ascertain if it was clean. My brother obeyed. The 



THE SHIP " EAGLE, OF BOSTON. 295 

cap exploded, but the gun was not fired. He put on 
another cap, and told my brother to hold his hand out 
straight. The captain then placed the muzzle in the cen- 
ter of the palm, pulled the trigger and fired. This 
time a ball came out, passing through Robert's hand, 
through the wall separating the store from the dining- 
room, and through the opposite wall, lodging in an 
adobe beyond. On taking a line between the two bul- 
let holes in the dining-room it was ascertained that if 
Mrs. Spear had occupied her seat at the breakfast table 
the bullet would have passed directly through her chest. 

The Californians did not practice turkey-shooting, 
their chief Christmas amusements being horse-racing 
and cock-fighting. The finest Christinas dinners I ever 
partook of were at their tables. A great variety of 
dishes, exquisitely cooked, were served on these occa- 
sions. 

Among the early vessels which came to the coast 
was the ship " Eagle," of Boston, owned and com- 
manded by my father, William Heath Davis. The 
middle name was given to him by his uncle. General 
Heath, one of Washington's fighting generals of rev- 
olutionary times. The vessel was brought by him to 
the Sandwich Islands about 1814, thence sailed over to 
the Russian settlements in Alaska, thence to California 
about 18 16. Two other trips were made by my father 
to California, during one of which my mother accom- 
panied him, shortly after their marriage. He also traded 
in this vessel between the Sandwich Islands and China ; 



296 BARTER ON THE COAST IN 1 8 1 6. 

taking from the Islands cargoes of sandal wood, which 
was plentiful and cheap there, but valuable in China, and 
used by the Chinese in religious ceremonies in their 
Joss houses and temples, and for other special purposes. 
It commanded a high price. Silks, teas, lacquered 
wares and other goods were brought from China, of which 
he sold a portion in the Islands, and then went across 
to the Russian possessions on the northwest coast of 
America, thence to California, to dispose of the re- 
mainder. 

On trips to California he went into some of the 
less prominent ports. At the time he was accompanied 
by his wife the vessel called in at Refugio, a rancho about 
fifteen or twenty miles west of Santa Barbara, Many 
of the wealthier Californians came to this place and 
purchased from the vessel choice articles of merchan- 
dise, as also did the Padres, The captain did not take 
hides and tallow in payment, but the rancheros and the 
priests brought with them bags of Spanish doubloons, 
and paid for their purchases in coin, or in sea otter 
skins, which were then plentiful. 

The Padres were the chief customers of the vessels, 
and spent freely from their well-filled coin bags or from 
their ample stores of otter skins which they had accum 
ukited. They did what they could to stimulate and 
increase the hunting of the sea otters, inducing the 
Californians and others who were skilled in the work 
to go out and shoot them ; frequently fitting out the 
boats and furnishing and paying the hunters themselves 



A BRISK TRADE. 297 

or buying the skins from men not in their employ. 
The otters were taken largely in the bay of San Fran- 
cisco and all along the coast. The Padres considered 
themselves the rightful owners, and were jealous of the 
Russians, who at that time were making immense 
fortunes out of the business ; and so did all they could 
to get a portion ot it into their own hands. They col- 
lected the skins for the enrichment of the Missions, be- 
ing desirous of making their Missions wealthy, and 
conducting them in an extensive and liberal manner, — 
with thousands of Indians around to civilize and Chris- 
tianize. They also had immense herds of cattle and 
horses to look after. Seeing this opportunity to add to 
their wealth, they eagerly availed themselves of it. The 
goods which they bought from the vessel were not for 
their personal use and enjoyment, but niost of them 
were resold to the rancheros at a profit, and so helped 
to swell the funds of the Missions over which they pre- 
sided. The good Fathers had no strong boxes in those 
days to keep their coin and other valuables in ; they 
concealed their treasure under the tile flooring of their 
rooms. The Padres also received from members of 
the church, money, simply for safe keeping, — a practice 
of the Catholic people which is continued to this day, 
showing implicit confidence in their spiritual advisers. 
The first iron safe in this part of the country was 
brought here in 1846. 

While trading at this trip, my mother was much in- 
terested in observing the Padres, clad in their peculiar 



-9^ A VISIT BY THE COMANDANTE. 

dress, and also the rancheros, with their fine cos- 
tumes and equipments. The vessel, at Refugio, was 
visited by Don Ygnacio Martinez, then comandante of 
the Presidio of Santa Barbara. Learning that a 
strange vessel was anchored twenty miles to the west, 
he. in his official capacity, dressed in full military cos- 
tume, accompanied by an officer and two soldiers, went 
off to the vessel, where he was received in the most 
friendly and gracious manner, and entertained with 
sumptuous dinners. He afterward said he was over- 
whelmed by the kindness and entertainment he met 
with on board the vessel, and that he could only accept 
half what was proffered with such grace and generosity. 
My mother, in describing the occurrences to me re- 
coimted the admirable appearance of the comandante, 
and that she never saw so many piles of gold (Spanish 
doubloons) as were collected on board the vessel, — the 
result of sales of eoods to the rancheros and Padres. 
Speaking of these events to me and asked how much 
my father realized from his cargo, she said, many thou- 
sands in orold, and a larQ^e number of sea otter skins, 
which were taken to China, where they brought from 
$So to $100 each. Captain Martinez saw me the first 
time, in Yerba Buena, at Spear's store, in 1838. and, 
without introduction, came forward and embraced me 
cordially, saying, " I am sure you are the son of Don 
Guillermo Davis, whom I knew, and whose vessel I 
visited"; and expatiated upon the kind treatment he 
had received on board. He had recognized me by my 
likeness to my father. 



PROFITS MADE BY THE " EAGLE." 299 

Captain John Meek commanded and owned a part 
of the "Don Quixote " when on this coast in 1832, that 
vessel being then engaged in trading between here and 
the Sandwich Islands, Meek was among the early pio- 
neers, having arrived in the ship " Eagle," as first of- 
ficer, with my father, about 18 16. He made two voy- 
ages subsequently in the same position on the same 
vessel. He was from Marblehead, Massachusetts. He 
has stated to me that my father's voyages in the " Ea- 
gle " were very successful ; and that on each voyage he 
realized about $25,000 profit, in Spanish doubloons and 
sea otter skins, from sales in California, aside from 
profits in the Russian settlements. He said that my 
father's vessel was among the first that came from Bos- 
ton to trade here {perhaps the very first), which gave 
him a great advantage, as he had no rivalry or compe- 
tition ; and besides he spoke Spanish fluently. Probably 
his success, when it became known in Boston, on his re- 
turn from China with a cargo of China goods, stimu- 
lated others to eng-ao-e in the trade, and brouQfht other 
vessels here. 

Captain Meek discoursed to me upon the fine ap- 
pearance of the California men, and the beauty of the 
women. He remembered Don Ygnacio Martinez and 
his visit to the " Eagle " when stopping at Refugio, 
as before described. In one of his first voyages here 
in the " Don Quixote," he received a present from Mar- 
tinez, who was then comandante of the Presidio at San 
P'rancisco, of three heifers and a young bull, in rccog- 



300 CAPTAIN MEEK S CATTLE. 

nition of the kindness of my father and Captain Meek 
to him during his visits to the " Eagle." On his re- 
turn to the Islands, Captain Meek carried these ani- 
mals with him. 

In 1871 I visited Honolulu and called on the cap- 
tain, and the history of these cattle was recounted, he 
having then between four and five thousand head on his 
" Big Tree Rancho," about thirty miles from Honolulu. 
He had been supplying that city and the foreign men- 
of-war, and other vessels, for many years with beef cat- 
tle — all from the increase of the little band presented 
to him by Martinez. In later years the stock had been 
improved by the introduction of blooded bulls from 
England and the United States. At the time of re- 
ceiving the cattle from Martinez, the captain presented 
to his daughter, then Mrs. Estudillo, a China camphor- 
wood trunk, covered with black leather, with the cap- 
tain's initials (J. M.) upon it, which were also the initials 
of the recipient's maiden name — Juana Martinez. 

During this visit I saw a California horse, from 
Santa Barbara, thirty-three )ears old, which had been 
in color a dark iron-gray, but was then nearly milk 
white, from his great age. He was perfectly sound, 
and Captain Meek drove him nearly every day round 
the city. He was about sixteen hands high. With the 
exception of a slight rheumatism in his hind legs, the 
horse had remained well during the many years of the 
captain's ownership. 



i 



RANCHO OF THE ORTEGA FAMILY, IN 1 8 1 6. 301 

About 1833 ^^on Antonio Jose Cott, a Spanish 
merchant of the department, chartered and loaded the 
" Don Quixote " with tallow, for Callao, Peru. She 
there took aboard an assorted cargo, and proceeded 
thence to Honolulu, where she landed a portion of it, 
and came to this coast with the remainder. On this 
trip from Callao to the Islands she averaged 200 miles 
a day for nearly the whole distance, the quickest pass- 
age known at that time. I doubt whether any sailing 
vessel has beaten it since. She was a very fast sailer, 
noted for speedy voyages. Once she went from Boston 
to Smyrna, on the Mediterranean Sea, and back to Bos- 
ton, at a speed averaging nine knots an hour both ways. 
In the spring ofi846 she made the run from Honolulu 
to Monterey in ten days. 

When Mrs. Estudillo's father returned from his 
visit to the " Eagle "at the Refugio, bringing with him 
the fine presents he had received, and the purchases 
he had made — silks, satins, crape shawls, fancy silk 
handkerchiefs, satin shoes, sewing silk of all colors, and 
other elegant finery of various kinds, with beautiful ar- 
ticles of lacquered ware, she and the family were quite 
overcome with astonishment and delight, for they had 
never seen anything so rich and beautiful. 

Refugio was the rancho of the Ortega family. The 
" Eagle" arriving there the first time, my father was 
very watchful and cautious, as it was a strange coast, 
and he didn't know how he would be received. On his 
visits to the Russian Settlements, at the north, he had 



302 CAPT. DAVIS FIRST VOYAGE TO SANTA BARBARA. 

obtained such information as he could in regard to Cal- 
ifornia, the Missions, etc. His purpose in coming here 
was to secure as many sea otter skins as possible, and 
to enter into communication with the Padres. He 
therefore went as near to Santa Barbara and the 
other Missions in that part of the country as he thought 
prudent, and anchored off the rancho of Ortega. 
Noticing that some of the people had come down to 
the beach to investigate, he questioned if it would be 
safe to go ashore, not knowing but he and his crew 
might be made prisoners. The strangers appearing 
harmless and quiet, he and his second officer ventured 
off from the ship in a boat, and introducing himself in 
Spanish, he was courteously received. 

Asked what the vessel was doing there, my father 
replied that he would like some beef for the ship's use. 
He engaged in conversation with the Californians in 
their own language, and invited Seiior Ortega on 
board the ship. The invitation was accepted, and he 
was entertained on board. On leaving- the vessel he 
was presented with a number. of choice and elegant ar- 
ticles from the cargo, which not only pleased him, but 
had an excellent effect upon the Californians in leading 
them to favorably regard their visitors. Information 
of the vessel's arrival was communicated to Santa 
Barbara, which resulted in the comandante's coming up, 
as before described. 

The presents he received, increased the good opin- 
ion of the inhabitants for the new comers, and no diffi- 



THREE VOYAGES. 3C3 

culty whatever was encountered after such ha[)py be- 
ginning- of the acquaintance. 

In the three voyages of the " Eagle" to this coast, 
stopping at Refugio each time, my father collected, in 
payment for goods sold, beside the money received, 
about 1500 sea otter skins, allowing in barter $30 for 
each. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

The Missions Well Stored — The Padres good at Bartering — Reciprocity of 
Interests between the Missions — A Community of Property — A Word of 
Praise for the Padres — Best Otter Hunters from the Southern States — Names 
of Some of the Early Hunters and Trappers — A Trade in Otter Skins — The 
Method of their Preservation — Constant Hunting Diminished the Otter Skin 
Supply — The Christian Name used as a Designation^A Sketch of a Surgeon 
— He Visits and Explores the Hawaiian Islands — His Sudden Disappearance 
— His Body Found in a Cattle-pit — Purity of Character in Native California 
Women — Punishment for a Stain on it — Indian Mode of Bear-hunting— A 
Well-preserved California Lady — Her Plan and Offer of Aid to President- 
elect Juarez is Gratefully Appreciated — The Lady's Husband proves Valorous 
in Battle. 

The Padres had stores at the Missions, to supply 
the wants of the Indians, as well as the Californians 
in the employ of the Missions. Their stock was 
necessarily large. They also supplied the rancheros 
with goods, taking in payment hides, tallow, fur and 
cattle. They also traded with the fur hunters, and 
gave in exchange for skins, goods and also gold and 
silver coin. The Fathers were first-class merchants. 
When they made purchases from vessels trading on the 
coast, they exhibited good judgment in their selections 
and were close buyers. The "Volunteer," in 1833, 
sold to the Missions bordering on the bay con- 
siderable quantities of goods, for cash. I remember 
that our supercargo, Sherman Peck, spoke of the mis- 
sionaries as shrewd purchasers, and strictly reliable men. 
It was a pleasure to deal with them. The Padres, 



COMMUNITV OF INTEREST IN MISSIONS. 3O5 

bought goods cheaper than the mncheros ; their pur- 
chases being always larger, a reduction was made in 
prices, as a matter of policy, and to encourage good re- 
lations already existing. 

One Mission would assist another with hides and 
tallow, or with fur skins, or money, in payment for 
goods which it had purchased. The priest sometimes 
gave an order on another Mission, in favor of the super- 
cargo, to furnish what was required. While my father 
was trading at the Refugio, the vessel had to wait several 
days, for payment for a portion of the goods sold to the 
Mission of Santa Barbara. Having paid over such gold 
and otter skins as it had on hand, this Mission sent out to 
the Mission of San Buenaventura at the east, and Santa 
Ynez on the west, for a further supply of skins, and 
coin, to pay for the balance of the goods. These numer- 
ous Missions were in reality one institution, with a 
common interest. The advancement of one was the 
general good and welfare of all. The goods purchased 
by one Mission were sometimes sent to others, partly 
for use, and in part for sale, as the range of distribution 
was thus widened. When one Mission had furnished 
another with money, or fur skins, or hides, or tallow, 
to assist it in paying for a large purchase, although 
there was no obligation to return the same, yet the 
Fathers were proud men, and it was their custom to 
return what they had borrowed, when they were able 
to do so from their new accumulations. While their 
interests were one, there was at the same time a friendly 

20 



306 OTTER HUNTERS EROM SOUTHERN STATES. 

ambition on the part of each to conduct his Mission 
successfully, and not to be outdone by any other 
Mission. 

The Padres were the original pioneers of Califor- 
nia, beyond all others. They hav'e left behind them, as 
mementoes of their zeal and industry in the work in 
which they were engaged, the Missions they built and 
conducted, besides other evidences, less tangible, of 
their influence for the welfare of the people of Cali- 
fornia and the whole world. 

It is a curious fact that nearly all the men promi- 
nent in otter and beaver hunting in the early days of 
California were from the southern, or slave states, of 
the Union. Isaac J. Sparks, of Santa Barbara, who 
died some years ago, was from Kentucky ; also George 
Nidever, still living at Santa Barbara. Lewis T. Bur- 
ton, of Santa Barbara, who died in May, 1879, was 
a native of Tennessee, and arrived in Santa Barbara 
in 1833, or before, and followed the occupation of otter 
hunting until it was no longer profitable. Samuel J. 
Hensley, of San Francisco and San Jose, who at one 
time was president of the California Steam Navigation 
Company, and who died some years since, was from a 
southern state. Daniel Sill was a native of Kentucky, 
as was also Isaac Graham. 

P. B. Reading, who was the Whig candidate for gov- 
ernor of California against John Bigler in 185 1, was a 
native of Canada, of English parentage, but, I believe, 
lived in a southern state in early life. 



"otter-room at mission DOLORES. 307 

The four last named followed the profession of 
trapping beavers and land-otters on the Sacramento and 
San Joaquin rivers and tributaries. These men were 
experts in the pursuit of fur-producing animals, and 
were the earliest trappers of Anglo-Saxon extraction. 
They made a good deal of money ; beavers and otters 
being numerous at that time. 

Among the early otter hunters in California was 
George Yount, who came from Missouri, probably 
about 1 83 1 or '32, and settled in Napa valley. Tim 
Black came from Scotland about the same time, and 
lived at San Rafael. Timothy Murphy also resided at 
San Rafael. Francis Branch, who arrived in Santa 
Barbara in 1833, and afterward removed to San Luis 
Obispo, where he owned a large ranch, was a native of 
one of the New England states. 

The priests had instructed some of the Mission 
Indians before the arrival of the early foreigners, in the 
work of trapping otters. The Missions in the neigh- 
borhood of the bay of San Francisco secured large 
quantities of furs from the Indian trappers. 

During my business intercourse with the Father in 
charge of the Mission San Jose I received from him in 
the year 1844 several thousand dollars' worth of beaver 
and land-otter skins which had been collected by his 
Indians on the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. 
On my visiting the Mission Dolores in 1833 with Mr. 
Peck, supercargo, and Captain Shaw, of the bark " Vol- 
unteer," we went into the "otter-room," so-called, a 



308 EXPORTATION OF FUR SKINS. 

large apartment in the upper story or attic of the build- 
ing. From the rafters and additional light timbers which 
had been placed across the room were hung the otter 
skins which the Mission had collected and had on hand 
at that time ; there being probably eighty to one hun- 
dred ready for sale, or exchange in trade. We got them 
all. 

Otter skins were preserved on board vessels taking 
them to China, in empty rum casks, which were 
dry and clean, but still retained the odor of rum. The 
furs were packed, with heads put in the casks, and they 
were thus secure against moths and other insects, and 
not exposed to dampness. All the vessels adopted this 
mode, which proved to be an excellent one. 

The exportation of sea otter skins and river furs 
was very large. Besides those exported by the Rus- 
sians, the Boston ships took a great many home with 
them, as did also vessels to other ports. 

As the hunting increased, the animals diminished 
and the exportations became less ; but late as 1840 and 
alono- to 1844 Henry Melius made shipments of sea 
otter, land-otter and beaver skins amounting to $15,000 
or $20,000 each. Land-otters and beavers were then 
not so scarce as sea otters. 

Among the Californians it was a custom to call all 
persons, of either sex, by a Christian name, the younger 
people especially being so addressed. The older per- 
sons, if men, had the prefix of " Don " or " Seiior Don " 
o-iven to their Christian names, and were rarely known 



SURGICAL TREATMENT. 3O9 

by their surnames. The ladies were addressed with the 
prefix of " Doiia " or " Senorita Dona" to Christian 
names, if unmarried, and " Senora Doiia," if married. 

Shortly after arriving at Monterey in the bark 
*' Louise," in 1831, I was playing about the deck one 
day with Louis Vigne, he having come from Honolulu 
in the same vessel. The main hatch beinof uncovered 
for the discharge of the cargo, in running round the 
opening, I slipped, lost my balance and fell into the 
hold. Taken up insensible, I remained so for some 
hours, having broken my arm. Our consul at Hono- 
lulu, Mr. J. C. Jones, was a stepfather of mine. He 
came over on the same trip, and was on shore. Word hav- 
ing been sent to him, he brought aboard Dr. Douglass, 
who set my arm carefully, and treated me very kindly. 
This doctor was a Scotchman, of learning and exten- 
sive scientific acquirements ; a naturalist, who also gave 
attention to botany, and was a collector of rare and 
curious specimens from the animal and vegetable king- 
doms. He had traveled all about the world ; had come 
recently from South America, and was making the tour 
of California. He was a grand, good man. 

At Monterey the doctor was the guest of David 
Spence, his countryman. Having visited the various 
Missions, and made the acquaintance of the Padres, for 
whom he had great respect and attachment, he spoke 
of their learning and of the great good being done by 
them in this wild and unsettled territory, and com- 
mended their missionary work — with the limited means 



3IO STORY OF A NATURALIST. 

at command — not only in Christianizing and educating 
the Indians in schools and churches, but in teaching 
various useful trades. 

Dr. Douglass, being brave and fearless, usually 
traveled on foot through the country, and refused the 
services of guides or vaqueros whom the good Fathers 
or rancheros would urge him to take with him. Two 
or three years after the accident, the doctor visited the 
Sandwich Islands for the purpose of pursuing his re- 
searches, and traveled over the island of Hawaii unat- 
tended, engaged in procuring specimens. Here he be- 
came widely known and much esteemed. At that time 
large numbers of wild cattle ranged in the mountains of 
the island, portions of different bands that had strayed 
away. The younger cattle, from long neglect, had become 
uncontrollable, and roamed without restraint of any kind, 
no one claiming ownership in them. They were hunted 
by foreigners and natives, and trapped in pits five or 
six feet deep, dug along the mountain sides, and cov- 
ered lightly with branches of trees and brush. The 
cattle, in ranging, fell into these holes, and being unable 
to extricate themselves, hunters could easily dispatch 
them. If the meat was fit for food, a portion of it would 
be saved ; but the main object of the slaughter was the 
securing of hides and tallow. 

Pursuing his favorite occupation for some time on 
the island, Dr. Douglass disappearing suddenly, began 
to be inquired about by many. The British consul pro- 
jected a search, assisted by the king, the American con- 



A FAITHFUL DOG. 3II 

sul and other foreigners resident at Honolulu. Re- 
wards were offered ; and the governor of the Island 
sent out to look for the doctor. After diligent search 
his body was discovered in one of the cattle pits, hav- 
ing evidently been there several days. A live bull 
was found in the hole with him. His faithful dog who 
had accompanied him in all his travels was found watch- 
at the edge of the pit. It is supposed that the doctor 
approached too near the edge to look at the animal im- 
prisoned there, and, slipping in accidentally, was killed 
by the bull. 

I have before spoken in terms of commendation 
concerning the chastity existing with California women. 
So great was the horror of the older Californians to any 
e.xception in this respect that the guilty parties, when 
discovered, were dealt with severely. The man who 
offended was imprisoned for two or three years, and 
put to hard work as a prisoner. The woman was dis- 
graced by cutting off her hair close to the head. In 
San Diego, a man named La valeta had seduced a young 
girl. He was imprisoned ; but the comandante of the 
Presidio had compassion upon the woman and pre- 
vented her hair being cut. Taken into his family, she 
was kindly treated. She afterward married a respect- 
able man, and lived the life of a good woman. 

I remember another case in San Diego where the 
parents of the young woman were very severe. Her 
hair was cut off close to her head, and she was placed 
in jail, and also put to work to sweep the streets of 
the town with the other prisoners. 



312 PRESIDENT JUAREZ. 

The Indians of California used artfully constructed 
traps for bears. They dug a large hole, about five or 
six feet deep, directly under the branch of a tree, cov- 
ered it with brush and a light coating of earth, and 
made all smooth on top. From the branch would be 
suspended a quarter of beef. Bruin would scent the 
meat, and, approaching without suspicion, would fall 
headlong into the pit. Shooting with bow and arrows, 
the Indian, having come out of his place of conceal- 
ment, would presently kill the bear. After he had ac- 
quired the use of firearms there was no delay in thus 
dispatching the animal. I n 1 840, and subsequent years, 
numbers of bears were trapped in the vicinity of San 
Leandro, about a mile and a half from the present town. 
The young men of a family, accompanied by an Indian 
servant, would go out and secure a bear, having great 
enjoyment in the sport. 

Dofia Louisa Avila de Gafia, a California lady, 
born in the city of Los Angeles, a relative of two noted 
families there of great wealth, and married to a citizen 
of Mexico. — -was attractive for her remarkably fine per- 
sonal appearance and superior conversational powers. 
On Christmas, 1880, she was visiting in San Diego, 
and I was interested in her account of her life in the 
city of Mexico, where she had lived for a number of 
years. Although fifty-six years of age she had not a 
gray hair in her head, as was proven by loosening her 
hair and having the ladies present at the dinner party 
make an examination of the luxuriant tresses. Her 
teeth were very fine. The lady relates, that when 



PRESIDENT JUAREZ. 313 

Juarez was elected president of the Mexican Republic. 
Miramon, with his forces, opposed him, and desig-ned 
effecting his capture, so as to prevent hini taking the 
office. Dona Louisa, having large estates in Los An- 
geles county, plenty of resources and ready money (as 
had also her husband), proposed to Juarez to furnish 
him with means, horses, escort, funds — everything 
needed, for him and his family to make a safe retreat to 
the mountains, where he could remain until such time 
as his friends should organize a sufficient force to de- 
feat Miramon and his schemes, after which he could 
safely take the position of president of the Republic. 
Juarez accepted her proposal, and she actually carried 
the plans into effect, with entire success. Juarez fol- 
lowed the advice to fly to the mountains, receiving from 
time to time intelligence of what was going on in the 
city. When it was prudent to return he did so, and 
took his seat as president, the designs of Miramon hav- 
ing been frustrated by the diplomacy, skill, generosity 
and energy of this magnanimous lady. Subsequently, 
during the administration of Juarez, her friendly services 
in his behalf were duly recognized, and appreciation 
accorded from Mrs. Juarez also. De Gafia, the hus- 
band, distinguished himself in the engagement of the 
Californians agfainst Commodore Stockton at San Gab- 
riel, in the winter of 1846-47, having then a com- 
mand in the native forces. In that fight he behaved 
bravely. Subsequently he acted as United States con- 
sul at Tepic. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Concerning Wm. D. M. Howard, an Early Comer to the State, who Afterwards 
made his Mark — Displays his Superior Business Qualifications — Becomes a 
Trader Up and Down the Coast — Is a Humorist — Fond of His Joke — En- 
gages in Business with Melius — The American Flag Hoisted on Portsmouth 
Square — It is Run Up at Other Places, but Compelled to be Taken Down — 
The Author and Howard Overhauled —Taken to the Guard House — Hospit- 
ably Entertained as Prisoners —Howard as a Mimic — Full of Innocent Mis- 
chief — The Merry Gift of Commodore Biddle — Howard as a Generous Host 
Remarkable Results of Drinking water from the Polin Spring — Mrs. Howard 
Dies at Honolulu — Howard Marries a Second Time — A Child by this 
Marriage still Survives — The Firm of Melius, Howard & Co. — It does an 
Immense Business — Sam Brannan Manages a Branch of the Establishment at 
Sutter's Fort. 

William D. M. Howard belonged to a respectable 
family of the city of Boston. In his youth, getting 
himself and his companions into mischief of one kind 
or another, his mother hoped to subdue and cure him 
of his wayward tendency by sending him to sea before 
the mast, in the ship " California," Captain Arthur, 
bound for this coast. 

The good captain had compassion on the lad and 
after they had got to sea took him as cabin boy, in 
which capacity he arrived at Monterey in the early part 
of 1839. The vessel proceeded thence to San Pedro; 
and Howard became clerk for Abel Stearns, who was 
then a merchant at Los Angeles, the first of the foreign 
merchants, and doing a large business. Alfred 
Robinson or Henry Melius, and perhaps Captain 



WILLIAM D. M. HOWARD. 3 ^ .■> 

Arthur, used influence In getting Howard into this 
position. The young man had become docile by 
his sea experience ; and applied himself diligently to 
his new labors, having a bright and active mind, and 
showing indications that he would make a successful 
merchant. In 1840, he went home, z-/^ Mexico, to see 
his relatives, and returned here in 1842 with Captain 
Arthur, of the vessel he first came in. The ship 
touched at Honolulu on her way to California. Aboard, 
as a passenger, was a young lady, Miss Mary Warren, 
the daughter of Major William Warren, of Boston. 
During the voyage, young Howard became enamored 
of the young lady, who was pretty and fascinating. 
They were married at the house of Captain Grimes, 
while the vessel remained at Honolulu, and the bride 
and groom came to Monterey in the ship, after a stay 
of a few weeks at the Islands. 

Reaching Monterey about this time in the " Don 
Quixote," I met my friend Howard and was introduced 
to his wife. During the visit, Howard surprised me by 
announcing a discovery he had made that we were 
second cousins ; that his mother was a niece of my 
father ; and that the name of my family was his second 
given name. He made me a present of a work called 
" Day and Night," in two volumes. The "California" 
proceeded down the coast, trading, and the " Don 
Quixote" came to Yerba Buena. 

Before this second trip of the " California," she had 
been sold by Bryant & Sturgis to William G. Read, a 



3l6 WILLIAM D. M. HOWARD. 

capitalist of Boston, by whom she was loaded, and sent 
out, with three supercargoes : Captain Arthur, Captain 
Clapp, who commanded the " Alciope" when she was 
here m 1840, and WilHam D. M. Howard. They did 
not get along very harmoniously. Captain Arthur, 
though an excellent navigator and ship master, was not 
much of a business man, neither was Captain Clapp ; but 
Howard, with a natural aptitude for business, had profited 
by his experience with Stearns in 1839 ^"d '40, in de- 
veloping business capacity, and was the chief super- 
cargo. The others were jealous of his superior ability. 
The cargo having been disposed of, the vessel returned 
to Boston with hides, but Howard and his wife remained 
at Los Angeles. Read had written to Howard mean- 
time that he would dispatch to him the " Vandalia," of 
four or five hundred tons. The ship arrived here in the 
latter part of 1843. Howard, being sole supercargo, 
traded up and down the coast (sometimes taking his 
wife with him), and sold the cargo at a good profit 
for the owners. In 1846 he sent the vessel back to 
Boston with hides, otter and beaver skins, and other 
furs. 

The vessel while in the harbor of San Francisco, 
entertained many of the ladies at impromptu receptions. 
Howard often joined them in Philopena — sharing 
with them double almonds, the one calling out Philo- 
pena first, on their next meeting, being entitled to a 
present. It cost him a good many pairs of gloves, and 
other articles, to discharge these obligations. 



WILLIAM D. M. HOWARD. 317 

In I845 he formed a copartnership, under the style 
of Melius & Howard, with Henry Melius, who for 
several years had been employed by Boston merchants 
as agent and supercargo. The business of the Hudson's 
Bay Company in Yerba Buena having been terminated 
by the death of Rae, the premises occupied by that 
company were purchased by the new firm. Late in 
1848 they built a new store on the southwest corner of 
Clay and Montgomery streets; abandoned the Hud- 
son's Bay building and took Talbot A. Green, a new 
partner into the business. Then the style of the firm 
was chano-ed to Melius, Howard & Co. 

Howard was a bold operater, liking to do things on 
a grand scale — sometimes rather reckless in his pur- 
chases, but generally successful. Henry Melius was the 
best merchant in town, he having been thoroughly edu- 
cated in business. My store in 1846 and 1847 was on 
the northwest corner o( Clay and Montgomery streets. 
Howard was accustomed to late suppers, and often 
after I had retired for the night at Kent Hall he would 
rap at my door and call out that I must come over and 
have supper with him, persisting until I complied. 

Going across to the store, we feasted on turkey, 
chicken and champagne, or whatever his larder af- 
forded ; talking, laughing and enjoying ourselves for 
two or three hours, sometimes with other company. 

The /\merican flag was hoisted in 1846, and the 
town was placed under martial law. Watson, captain ot 
the marines of the American man-of-war " Portsmouth" 



3l8 WILLIAM D. M. HOWARD. 

(Commander Montgomery), was in charge, with a corps 
from the vessel. The flag was raised on what is now 
Portsmouth Square. A guard was stationed at the 
Mexican custom house, an adobe building on the square. 
The Californians made no resistance to the raising of 
the flag at various points in the department ; but some 
weeks afterward they decided to oppose the complete 
surrender of the country. At Los Angeles, Santa Bar- 
bara and San Jose, attacks were made upon the little 
guards of soldiers there stationed, and they were driven 
away. News reaching Yerba Buena, the remainder of 
the marine corps on board the " Portsmouth" was sent 
on shore, making a force of twenty-five. The opposi- 
tion of the Californians led to the preparations by Com- 
modore Stockton and the battle of San Gabriel, which 
will be spoken of hereafter. 

Howard, myself and a few other merchants were 
furnished by Watson with the countersign, which was 
changed every night. We were out on a visit one 
evening, and were crossing Portsmouth Square, on the 
way home, about eleven o'clock, when we were hailed 
by the guard on duty: "Halt! who goes there.'*" 
" Friends ;" we answered. "Advance and give the coun- 
tersign ! " commanded the sentry. We advanced, but 
both Howard and myself had forgotten it. We ex- 
plained our position. The guard said he was obliged 
to take us to the guard-house, which he accordingly 
did, armed with his musket, one of us on each side of him. 
Fortunately, Captain Watson was still up, and, on see- 



THE LEIDESDORKF ESTATP:. 319 

in^^ US approach under arrest, burst out laughing. He 
dismissed the guard, and entertained us very hospitably 
lor two or three hours. Howard was a capital mimic. 
He often personated the peculiarities of others in a 
good-natured way; was a fine actor, and very success- 
ful in playing practical jokes on his friends. If Grimes 
flew into a rage over the practice of some of these arti- 
fices, the former used his mirth and persuasive abilities 
with success, in calming down the old captain. 

Robert Ridley, in 1845, built a one-story cottage, 
with a piazza round it, on the southwest corner of Cal- 
ifornia and Montgomery streets, back about twenty varas 
(fifty-five feet) from each of the streets. He sold this 
place to William A. Leidesdorff, who lived there from 
1846 to the time of his death in May, '48. In the sum- 
mer of 1847 Commodore Biddle arrived from China in 
the line-of-battle ship " Columbus," and was the guest 
of Leidesdorff. While he was there, Don Jose Joaquin 
Estudillo with his wife and two daughters, and myself 
called to pay our respects. As we approached the 
house from the Montgomery street side and passed the 
pretty flower garden which Leidesdorff had at the time, 
we were met by him and the commodore. The lat- 
ter seeming to be in a playful mood, presented each of 
the Jadies with a miniature bouquet of two or three 
flowers plucked from the garden. Tome he presented 
a single dry straw picked from the ground. 

Upon the death of Leidesdorff, Howard was ap- 
pointed administrator of the estate, with two bonds 



320 SAM. BRANNAN. 

men, each in $50,000, of whom I was one. Howard 
then took possession of the cottage as a residence, and 
occupied it up to the beginning of '49. While there, 
he received a good deal of company, — merchants, cap- 
tains, supercargoes, army and navy officers and other 
strangers. Mrs. Howard came up from Los Angeles, 
where she had been spending considerable time, a 
daughter being born to her there, and joined her hus- 
band at the Leidesdorff cottage in 1848. She left San 
Francisco in January, 1850, by the American ship 
" Rhone" for Honolulu, hoping to secure in the Islands 
the restoration of her failing health, but she died in 
three or four months after her arrival, while staying 
with the faniily of William Hooper, the United Staces 
consul. 

In the autumn of 1850 Howard was married again, 
the bride being Miss Poett, daughter of Dr. Poett, who, 
with his wife, had resided many years in Santiago, 
Chili, where the young lady was born. They came to 
California in '49. Before the marriage he had purchased 
a house and lot on the northeast corner of Stockton and 
Washington streets. It was there he was married and 
afterward lived, until 1S51, when he moved to Mission 
street, between Third and Fourth, and built one of four 
cottages — of similar ciesign and appearance, the others 
having been constructed, one by George Melius, one by 
Talbot H. Green and one by Sam. Brannan. Howard 
had by his second wife one child, who is still living. 
His first child died at Los Angeles. 



SAM. BRANNAN. 32 I 

Melius, Howard &; Co., in 1848 and '49, after the 
discovery of gold, did an extensive and profitable busi- 
ness. They had a branch store at Sutter's Fort, with 
Sam. Brannan as partner and manager (he having no 
interest in the San Francisco house), and sold goods 
and supplies of all kinds to the miners. The business 
at Brannan's branch store required continuous supplies 
from the San Francisco house, and he would sometimes 
come to the city and nearly empty my store and the 
stores of others, buying everything we had. 

21 



CHAPTER XL. 

Foresight of Quartermaster Folsom — He Slips Off to the West India Islands and 
Purchases from the Heirs the Entire Leidesdorff Estate in California — The 
Author Becomes a Local Officer of San Francisco — Howard Forms a Military 
Company — -An Incident] of Recognition — Disputing a Man's Identity — How- 
ard Crippled Financially by the Great Fire of 1851 — The Increase in Real 
Estate Values Restores Him to Wealth — A Spiteful Lawsuit Instituted by 
Melius Against Howard — It is Soon Abandoned for Good Cause— Howard a 
Generous Contributor to Charity — He and Melius Present the City a Fire 
Engine — A Fire Company Organized with Howard as Foreman — Howard 
Dies in 1855 — Tokens of Respect to Plis Memory. 

The Leidesdorff estate, when Howard took charge 
of it, was in debt about $60,000. In its management 
and settlement he showed his business abiHty. It em- 
braced a great deal of property. Everything was ar- 
ranged by Howard in the most satisfactory manner. C. 
V. Gillespie was his managing assistant in this business. 
J. L. Folsom, quartermaster, United States army, in 
San Francisco, noticing the rapid rise in real estate, 
consequent upon the discovery of gold and the rush 
of people to California, and knowing that the Leides- 
dorff property would rapidly become valuable, slipped 
away from the city and proceeded to the island of St. 
Croix, one of the West Indies, where Leidesdorff was 
born, and where his mother Ann Maria Sparks, and 
her family, were living. His father was a Dane, who 
had emigrated to St. Croix. 

Folsom bought of the heirs the entire estate in 
California, paying therefor the sum of $75,000 cash, 



THE FIRST MILITARY COMPANY. 323 

and afterwards $15,000 or $20,000 more. Oii return- 
ing, after having secured the deed, the property was 
turned over to him, it being then worth several hundred 
thousand dollars. 

I was elected to the ayuntamiento of San Fran- 
cisco in 1848 and also in 1849. My friend Howard 
having conceived the idea that I would like to be a 
member, insisted upon my taking the nomination, which 
I accordingly did. While a member of the council, I 
had the honor of suggesting the name of a street in 
San Francisco after its first citizen, William D. M. 
Howard ; which suggestion was adopted. 

He organized, in the year 1849, the first military 
company in San Francisco, under the name of Califor- 
nia Guard, composed of one hundred members, of whom 
I was one. He made a good commanding officer, and 
drilled the company efficiently ; taking much pleasure 
and pride in this work, having acquired in the East in 
his younger days considerable military skill. Without 
ambition for political office or civil position of any kind — 
although, with his talents and popularity, he might easily 
have attained any position in the department — his aspira- 
ations were of a military charactfr, and his tastes were 
in that direction. At the same time he was a persist- 
ent and honest worker for his friends. If he thought 
that a certain man should fill a certain position in civil 
affairs, he would set the forces in motion to that end ; 
electioneer for him, and by his efforts carry him through 
successfully. 



324 A SERENADE. 

Having a fine ear for music, and great appreciation 
of it, Howard had also a taste for theatricals, and was a 
good amateur actor. He happened to be at Santa Bar- 
bara with the " Vandalia " in 1845, while the ship "Ad- 
mittance " was there. John C. Jones was going as 
passenger to Boston, and had secured a cabin for his 
accommodation. Jones was considered a good actor of 
Shakespearean characters, and while the vessels were 
at Santa Barbara he and Howard got up a performance 
(in which both personated characters) for a large com- 
pany assembled. It was very seccessful, affording a 
good deal of entertainment to themselves and the audi- 
ence ; being the first introduction of Shakespeare to this 
wild country. 

Just after my marriage, in November, 1847, How- 
ard serenaded us on two occasions with a band of music, 
at our house in Yerba Buena. When the band had 
played a number of airs on the piazza, we got up and 
dressed, opened the doors, and invited Howard and the 
musicians in. Mr. and Mrs. Estudillo being also 
with us, we had quite a party. Champagne was freely 
opened, and a few pleasant hours were enjoyed. 

Melius having had an attack of apoplexy in 1850, 
which impaired his health, soon after sold out his share 
in the business to Howard and Green, receiving there- 
for $150,000 here, and also one-half of $40,000 which 
he and Howard had on deposit in Boston. After his 
withdrawal he retired to private life in that city. His 
brother Frank afterward went into the concern, but 
shortly withdrew. 



GEDDES, ALIAS GREEN. S^5 

Sometime in 1850 Talbot H. Green was recog- 
nized by H. P. Hepburn, a lawyer from Philadelphia, 
who had known him at the East, as Paul Geddes. 
Hepburn was walking in Montgomery street with a 
number of gentlemen, among them Ferdinand Vas- 
sault, and looking across the street, exclaimed, " Why, 
there's Paul Geddes!" "That's Talbot H. Green," 
said one. " No," responded Hepburn ; " it is Paul 
Geddes ; I know him as well as I do myself" The 
circumstances under which he had suddenly left the 
East soon became known throughout the city, and the 
discovery created quite a sensation, as Green at the 
time was a candidate for the office of Mayor of San 
Francisco. Howard had put him forward for that po- 
sition. 

Green stoutly denied that he was Paul Geddes and 
contradicted all the accusations, affirming that he was 
Talbot H. Green, and always had been. To prove the 
truth of his statement, he offered to go East and ob- 
tain evidence to satisfy anybody interested of that fact. 
Vassault was called on by Howard and asked if it was 
correct, as reported, that Hepburn had made the dis- 
closure about Green, in Vassault's presence. The latter 
confirmed the report, and the former appeared much 
surprised and excited. 

Green soon left for the East and did not return 
for a number of years. Howard continued the business 
by himself. 

The great fire of 185 1, which destroyed the busi- 
ness portion of San Francisco, and, in fact, almost the 



326 THE GREAT FIRE OF 1 85 1. 

whole city, leaving a little rim on the outside like the 
tire of a wheel — the wheel itself beinof orone — burned 
out Howard, who at the time had a large stock of goods, 
and also his buildings in different parts of the town. He 
became Iso crippled in consequence that he was on the 
verge of bankruptcy. 

The town was rebuilt, however, and in 1853 real 
estate had increased so much in value that he had not 
only recovered his losses by the fire, but had become a 
rich man. He visited Boston in that year. The fact of 
the resuscitation of San Francisco and the great increase 
in the value of property there were of course well known 
at the East. When Howard reached Boston he was 
looked upon as a millionaire. This excited the jealousy 
of Melius, who, although wealthy himself, was not sat- 
isfied ; and he instituted a suit against Howard, employ- 
ing the famous Rufus Choate as his counsel ; his com- 
plaint being that he was not in his right mind at the 
time of his settlement with Howard in 1850, and that 
he had not received the full value of his share of the 
partnership property at that time. The suit was, how- 
ever, abandoned, as Howard could prove unquestionably 
that Melius was sufficiently sane to know what he was 
about, and had sold his interest with full knowledge of 
its value. Besides, at the time of settlement, the friends 
of Melius, his brothers and others, were consulted ; 
they were aware that in the transaction there was no 
deception on the part of the purchaser. 

After his return from Boston, in 1854, he was so 
enraged at Melius' unfriendly action in commencing 



ORGANIZATION OF THE PIONEER SOCIETY. 327 

suit, that he caused the name of the street which had 
been called after him to be changed to " Natoma," which 
name it still bears. 

Howard was the leader and one of the most ac- 
tive organizers in the establishment of the California 
Pioneer Society in 1850, and due credit should be given 
him for these efforts. He was the first president of the 
society, and remained as such till 1853. At the Pioneer 
Hall is a portrait of him, but I regret it is not a very 
correct likeness; a better one is owned by Don Alfredo 
Robinson. 

I never knew Howard to decline granting a favor 
or refuse to contribute to a charitable enterprise. In 
any scheme of the kind he was always one of the first 
to act, not from ostentation or a desire for display, but 
from real philanthropy and generosity. Among other 
things, I remember his subscribing $300 to build the 
first Catholic church on Vallejo street in the fall of 
1848, for which I made some collections at the request 
of Judge (afterward Governor) Burnett, and I was 
treasurer of the fund. 

In 1850 or 1 85 1 Melius & Howard purchased, in 
Boston, a first-class fire engine, one of such machines 
as were in use in those days, worked by hand, selected 
by Melius while he was East on a visit, the firm paying 
for it, and the freight also, from their private funds. 
On its arrival in 1851 they presented it to the city of 
San Francisco, this being among the first, if not the" 
very first, of the engines which the city possessed. It 
was named the " Howard." 



328 THE FIRST FIRE COMPANY. 

A fire company was organized, of which Howard 
was made foreman. Charles R. Bond was secretary, 
Ferdinand Vassault, WilHam Burling, A. S. Dungan, 
G. B. Post, R. S. Watson, Charles Warner. R. L. Og- 
den, Thomas J. Haynes and other well-known gentle- 
men — all merchants, the first citizens of San Francisco 
— were original members ; also Beverly C. Sanders, 
banker, and collector of the port ; Sam. Brannan and 
George H. Howard, capitalists. In fact all the mem- 
bers of this company were men of wealth and high 
standing, none others being admitted. At the organ- 
ization of the company and the election of officers there 
was a jolly time. One of the participants recently re- 
marked to me that the champagne was unlimited. There 
were about forty members, and they had their head- 
quarters in an iron building, imported from England, 
situated on the west side of Montgomery street, a little 
south of California, where the engine was kept. On 
occasions of fires, Howard, as foreman, and the other 
members of the company, appeared in their firemen's 
caps and uniforms, and worked the engine— aided by 
volunteers from the outside, when necessary. 

The subject of this sketch may be regarded as one 
of the founders of San Francisco. His enterprise, en- 
ergy and wealth helped build it up and stimulated its 
prosperity. He had its interests always at heart ; and 
where he could be of service in anything tending to its 
growth and advancement, he was foremost. 

In personal appearance, he can be described as an 
ideal nobleman, six feet in height, erect, of command- 



HOWARDS DEATH. 329 

ing figure, with sandy beard (generally clean shaven)' 
full, ruddy cheeks, laughing eyes, and soft and musical 
voice. 

During his visit to Boston in 1853, Howard con- 
tracted a severe cold which settled on his lungs. After 
his return here in 1854, he commenced to pine away. 
He gradually grew worse, until he became hardly more 
than a skeleton of his former self, having lost perhaps 
half his weight. He was then living at the Oriental 
Hotel, Bush and Battery streets, with his family. 

Larkin went up to the hotel one day to see him. 
He looked about the parlor, passing a man sitting 
there and was continuing his search, when the man 
in the chair called out, " For God's sake, Larkin, 
why don't you speak to me?" — and, to his astonish- 
ment, he perceived that it was Howard, so changed that 
he hardly knew him. His death was much lamented, 
laudatory obituary notices appearing in the Alia and 
Herald. The columns of the latter were dressed in 
mourning, as a token of respect. 

Howard left a fine estate, which was divided be- 
tween his widow and son. His widow afterward mar- 
ried his brother George ; and after the latter's death, 
she married her present husband, Mr. Bowie. 



CHAPTER XLI. 

Some Political History — The First Wharf — Privileges Granted to it — A vast Fleet 
of Trading Vessels in the Bay — A Splendid Spectacle — The Business Bustle 
on Shore — The Scene as a Panorama — A Patriarchal mode of Governing the 
Mission Indians — Their Cleanliness under Discipline — Yoscolo, an Educated 
Indian, proves Treacherous — Outljreak of the Savages — Yoscolo their Leader 
— They Break into the Mission Convent, and carry off" 200 Indian Cjirls — 
Yoscolo joins Stanislaus, another Educated Chief, in the Mariposa Mountains 
— Their United Forces Formidable — The Indians break into, and Plunder the 
Mission of Santa Clara — The Savages retire to the Santa Cruz Mountains — 
Prado Mesa musters a Hundred Men to March against Them — A Battle 
Ensues — Mesa gains a Victory — Yoscolo is Taken and Beheaded on the Spo 
— The Killed and Wounded — Yoscolo's Plead displayed as a Trophy. 

After the change of flag, the laws of Mexico (civil 
and criminal) were continued as the predominating laws 
of the department, but the U. S. military commander 
of the territory was at the head. If a doubt arose con- 
cerning any alleged illegal exercise of authority by an 
alcalde (who was an elective officer) or by prefects (who 
were appointed by the governor), the dispute could be re- 
ferred to the military governor, and his decision thereon 
might be final ; he had power, for cause, to remove the 
alcalde from office ; but I know of no instance of the 
arbitrary exercise of this power. 

Pio Pico was the last of the governors under the 
Mexican regime, holding from January, 1845, ^^ ^^^ 
time of hoisting the American flag at Monterey in 
July, 1846. 

Commodore J. D. Sloat, of the U. S. navy, was 
the first military commander under our flag. He was 



THE CENTRAL WHARF. 33 1 

succeeded by Commodore R. F. Stockton in August, 
1846. Colonel Fremont was the military governor 
during a part of 1847. The latter was succeeded by 
General Kearney, and he, by Colonel Mason. The 
last of the military governors was General Riley, dur- 
ing whose administration the first constitution of the 
state was formed at Monterey in 1849. It was ratified 
at the general election November 13, 1849 ; the popu- 
lation at that time being about 120,000, of whom 80,- 
000 (estimated) were American, 20,000 foreigners, and 
20,000 native Californians. 

Peter H. Burnett was elected governor at that 
election, under the constitution. On the 20th of De- 
cember, 1849 (before the admission of the state into the 
Union, September, 1850), he entered upon the discharge 
of his duties at the capital, the pueblo of San Jose. Be- 
fore the expiration of his term of office he resigned the 
governorship, and John McDougal, the lieutenant-gov- 
ernor, served out the remainder of the term, a little less 
than a year. 

Governor McDougal was jolly and open-hearted, 
but his habits were against him, and occasionally he 
would imbibe too much. 

The next election took place in the fall of 1851, 
John Bigler being elected governor of the state for the 
term of two years from January i, 1852. His majority 
was 441 votes over P. B. Reading, the Whig candidate ; 
the whole vote being about 50,000. 

In 1849 the first wharf was built in San Francisco, 
known as Central wharf, so named from Central wharf 



33^ THE CENTRAL WHARF. 

of Boston. It was located where Commercial street is 
now, commencing- a little to the west of Sansome street, 
and running 400 feet into the bay. Howard was one 
of the most active movers in this enterprise, and owned 
a large amount of the stock. The wharf proved to be 
useful, and was a valuable piece of property, bringing in 
a large income. At the public sale of tide lands by Al- 
calde Hyde, in October, 1847, Melius and Howard 
bought the block bounded by Clay, Sacramento, San- 
some and Battery streets, and they gave the company 
a slip of land about thirty-five feet wide for the build- 
ing of the wharf. Its construction and use enhanced 
the value of the remainder of the block, and increased 
the wealth of the firm. 

Afterward, in 1849, the alcalde, with the approval 
of the ayuntamiento, granted to the Central Wharf 
Company a block of tide land east of this block, and 
the wharf was extended to Front street the same width 
as the portion before built. In 1850 Colonel J. D. 
Stevenson and Dr. W. C. Parker secured the title to 
the block in front of that just mentioned, bounded by 
Front, Clay, Davis and Sacramento streets, and they 
granted to the Central Wharf Company, for a consider- 
ation, a strip the width of the wharf for a further ex- 
tension, which was made as far as where Davis street 
now is. After that the city gave the company the right 
of way as far as Drumm street, and the wharf was built 
to that point. 

The first section of wharf extending to Battery 
street, cost $110,000, and from Battery to Drumm 



1 



THE CENTRAL WHARF. ;^T,;^ 

$200,000. On the organization of the wharf company, 
C. V. Gillespie was elected president, and I was chosen 
treasurer. At the first meeting after the organization 
I reported having collected $23,000 from the stock- 
holders. The stock was paid for as soon as subscribed. 
At the second meeting I reported that the subscrip- 
tions had all been paid in, amounting to $200,000. 
1 then relinguished my position as treasurer, having more 
business on hand of my own than I could find time to 
attend to. I had accepted the position at first solely 
to oblige Howard. 

From the time of the building of the first portion, 
the wharf became an important feature of the city ; 
and in the winter of 1849-50 it presented a scene of 
bustle and activity, day after day, such as, I presume, 
hardly has been equalled elsewhere in the world at any 
time. 

An immense fleet of vessels from all parts of the 
globe, numbering eight to nine hundred, were anchored 
in the bay, east of the city, between Clarke's Point 
(now about Broadway street) and the Rincon (now 
about Harrison street), presenting a very striking pic- 
ture — like an immense forest stripped of its foliage. 

The Central Wharf being the only one in the 
city, was the thoroughfare for communication with the 
vessels, and was crowded from morning till night with 
drays and wagons coming and going. Sailors, miners, 
and others of all nationalities, speaking a great variety 
of tongues, moved busily about ; steamers were arriving 



334 A GRAND SPECTACLE. 

and departing, schooners were taking in merchandise 
for the mines, boats were crowding in here and there — 
the whole resembHng a great beehive, where at first 
glance everything appeared to be noise, confusion and 
disorder. 

The city of San Francisco to-day, with its exten- 
sive commerce and four hundred thousand people, 
presents no such grand spectacle of enterprise and 
activity as was centered at that pic;r, in its infancy. 

The wharf at that time was a prominent feature 
of the view from the hill residences west. On leaving 
my home at Stockton and Jackson streets for the 
store on a fine morning, looking down, the sight was 
panoramic in the extreme — the living mass of human 
beings moving to and fro seeming in the distance not 
unlike an army in battle on the edge of a forest, re- 
presented by the wilderness of masts of vessels ma- 
jestically riding at their moorings, gathered from all 
parts of the known world. The scene was one of the 
most memorable within my recollection. 

• Visiting the Missions of Carmel, Santa Barbara 
and San Diego in 1831, I was impressed with the neat- 
ness and order about them, and the respectable appear- 
ance of the Indians. The men dressed in white shirts 
and blue drill or cotton pants ; many of them with shoes, 
which were manufactured at the Missions, from bullock 
hides, deer and elk skins, dressed and tanned there. The 
government of the Indians was systematic and well de- 
signed. A few of the Indians, in whom the Padres had 



CAPTAIN SHAW. ^T,^ 

confidence, were selected to act as alcades or capiianes, 
each over a certain number, for whose good conduct he 
was held in some degree responsible. If any offense 
ao-aint the resfulations of the Mission was committed, 
the case was reported to the Padre, who determined 
what punishment should be inflicted on the the culprit. 
The good iinpression was confirmed by a visit to the 
Mission Dolores in 1833, where were gathered ftom 
2000 to 2500 Indians. The order and discipline among 
them being so apparent and perfect as to excite the 
admiration of the beholder It seemed like a military 
camp. 

Captain Shaw, of the " Volunteer," was a severe 
disciplinarian, and his vessel was as neat in every 
respect as a man-of-war ; he also remarked upon the neat- 
ness and good order of the people, and everything con- 
nected with the Mission, saying the system could not 
be surpassed on a war vessel. There were no ragged 
children or vulgar-looking women. In visiting other 
Missions during that year, I noticed a similar condi- 
tion ; good order and cleanliness prevailed. I made the 
same observations at the Mission of San Jose in 1838, 
where two or three thousand Indians were collected — 
all having an appearance of neatness, and all being un- 
der good discipline. At that time the Mission of Santa 
Clara was falling into decay, owing to the loss of 
some of its lands, and it was made a centre for military 
operations. 

At the Mission of San Jose in 1839, I saw an In- 
dian whipped on the bare back, for some offense he had 



^^6 CHIEF YOSCOLO. 

committed, this being one of their punishments. The 
Mission was not then under the charge of Father Gon- 
zales, but of Don Jose Jesus Vallejo. In a year or two 
the control was again given to the Padre, and Don Jose 
withdrew. This was the richest Mission in the Depart- 
ment at that time. 

Among the Indians who were educated at the Mis- 
sions, two became prominent— Stanislaus at the Mis- 
sion of San Jose, after whom Stanislaus River and 
County were named; and Yoscolo, at the Mission of 
Santa Clara. They were educated by the Fathers. 
Both showed ability and promise in their youth. 
Yoscolo when twenty-one years of age, was made the 
chief of the whole body of Indians at the Mission, 
responsible of course to the Padres for the manage- 
ment of them. In this position he displayed tact in the 
control of the Indians. 

At one time some of them committed tresspasses 
which displeased the Padres and they proposed pun- 
ishing Yoscolo, who refused to submit to it. At this 
stage he was joined by 500 of the Indians over whom 
he had command, and they all assumed a hostile 
attitude. 

The Indians were armed with bows and arrows, 
having been allowed to retain these weapons, as it was 
considered there was no danger in their doing so, and 
they were needed in killing game. 

The outbreak occurred in the night. The five 
hundred, led by Yoscolo, broke open the Mission stores 



A MISSION ATTACKED. 337 

and helped themselves to blankets and whatever articles 
they could easily carry away. 

A small guard was usually placed at each Mission 
by the governor, consisting of ten or fifteen soldiers, 
from the troops of the nearest Presidio, under the 
charge of a corporal or sergeant. At the Mission of 
Santa Clara there was a guard of this kind, under the 
command of Juan Prado Mesa. But against so large 
a force it would have been powerless. 

After breaking into the stores and helping them- 
selves, they entered the convent attached to the Mis- 
sion, and seized about two hundred young Indian girls, 
whom they took away with them. 

It is probable that the sole object of the emeute 
was to secure possession of the girls, and that Yoscolo 
had planned for some time to effect this purpose ; that 
the offense for w^hich he had incurred the displeasure of 
the Fathers and rendered himself amenable to punish- 
ment was committed as a pretext for the outbreak ; 
that his five hundred followers had all been fully in- 
structed beforehand as to the performance ; and that 
the weapons had also been secured, and everything pre- 
arranged. Yoscolo was a young man of talent and 
bravery, as afterward was shown, and capable of con- 
ducting an intrigue of this kind. Besides the plunder 
from the stores, and ihe two hundred girls, about two 
thousand head of horses belonging to the Mission of 
Santa Clara and also some owned by the citizens of the 
pueblo of San Jose, were taken by the Indians. As 

22 



338 MEN OF STRAW. 

they went on south they gathered in the stock of others. 
They made good their retreat, and reached the Mariposa 
mountains without opposition. 

An instance is not known of Indians doing harm 
to any of the Padres, so great was the respect in which 
the Fathers were held. 

Stanislaus had sometime previous left the Mis- 
sion of San Jose and taken command of numerous 
tribes at Mariposa, numbering about 40,000 He, also, 
was well educated, brave and talented, but preferred 
the freedom of wild life and the exercise of authority 
over the tribes, to the tame civilization of the Missions. 

Yoscolo sought Stanislaus, cultivated his friend- 
ship, and the two joined forces, the former becoming the 
leader. These events occured in May, 1831. 

The government took steps immediately to pursue 
and chastise the offenders. General Vallejo collected a 
force from the different presidios, and called also for 
volunteers. In two or three weeks he had organized a 
body of 200 men, armed and equipped, for the pursuit. 

The Indians were encamped on the Stanislaus 
river to the number of several thousand, — men, women 
and children, for fishing and general enjoyment. 

The Californians reached the camp and prepared 
to attack it. As soon as the presence of the troops 
was known, the enemy formed an ingenious plan to 
evade them. A large number of bundles of grass were 
set afloat down the stream, and as the current took 
them past General Vallejo's camp, in the indistinct light 



NEW OUTRAGES. 339 

of the moon the soldiers mistook them for Indians, and 
supposed that their wily foes were getting- away in a 
body ; whereupon, the entire force set c-ut in pursuit of 
the supposed aborigines, who, after being followed some 
distance down the stream, were discovered actually to 
be men of straw. Meanwhile, the real Indians had 
taken up their march to the interior and where they 
were safe from all pursuit, as no white man would fol- 
low them into those well-nigh inaccessible retreats. 

Some time after, Voscolo, with about 200 picked 
men, made an attack in the night upon the Mission of 
Santa Clara, for the purpose of plunder. Breaking into 
the stores, they helped themselves to whatever they 
chose to carry off, making good their escape. They 
took up their position at a pass in the Santa Cruz 
mountains, known as " La Cuesta de los Gatos," which 
name was given from the circumstance that wild cats in 
great numbers were about there in former times. Here 
Yoscolo relied upon his ability to hold out against any 
attack of the Californians. 

This new outrage on the part of these Indians 
aroused the military spirit of the Californians anew. 
Juan Prado Mesa gathered one hundred men in a few 
days, with whom he marched against the enemy, taking 
with him also a piece of artillery. 

Mesa was a great Indian fighter. He knew his 
enemies, and did not underestimate their cunning 
and ability ; yet, at the same time, he had no fear of 
them. Yoscolo, seeing him approach, came out from 



340 YOSCOLO BEHEADED. 

his retreat, and with his force went part way down the 
mountain to meet him. A desperate encounter ensued, 
in which both sides showed great intrepidity. The 
Indian leader marshaled his forces in the form of a 
square, in true military style, and ordered his men to 
lie down and discharge the arrows from a recumbent 
position, in which there would be less risk of being hit 
by the bullets of their opponents, who were armed with 
old-fashioned muskets, carbines and flint-lock pistols. 
The battle raged all day, the savages showing great 
stubborness in continuing it. Only when their arrows 
had all been discharged did they finally yield to the 
Californians. Their leader, when taken, was found to 
be wounded. He and the more prominent of the band 
under him were immediately beheaded. The remainder 
were turned over to the Mission of Santa Clara to be 
civilized and Christianized anew. About one hundred 
Indians were killed and wounded in this battle. Of the 
Californians only eight or ten were killed, but a large 
number were wounded. Among the killed were two 
brothers Cibrian, of a well-known family of the pueblo 
of San Jose. 

Yoscolo's head was affixed by the hair to the top 
of a pole planted in front of the church at Santa Clara, 
and remained there for several days as a warning to 
other Indians. 



CHAPTER XLII. 

Chief Stanislaus is Pursued and Overtaken by Castro — An Outbreak of the 
Indians at Clear Lake — They are Slaughtered without Mercy — Arrow Poison- 
ing — The Methods of Counteracting its Effect — The Trouble of Land Squat- 
ters — A Timely and Skillful use of the Reata, and a Fortunate Rescue — 
Dangers and Benefits of the Reata — Two Illustrative Incidents — A Wealthy 
Land, Horse and Cattle Owner — Members of his Family Designated — A Close 
Dealer — Pompous on First Acquaintance, but Easily Softened — Exhibits his 
Moneyed Treasures to the Author — The Owner tells how he Acquired Them 
— Does a Bartering Business on his own Account — The Wealthy Man makes 
Further Purchases from the Author — Robbed by his Sons — His Character as 
a Money Broker — The sort of Security he Required on Loans— Time and 
Manner of Herding and Transferring Cattle. 

Stanislaus, with a force of about eighty Indians, 
came down from the mountains in May, 1840, to the 
ranchoof Guillermo Castro, at San Lorenzo, and to the 
rancho of the Peraltas, at San iVntonio (East Oakland), 
and captured several hundred head of horses. A day 
or two after. Castro, with seventeen men, went in pur- 
suit. A fight took place on the banks of the San Joa- 
quin river. Stanislaus formed his men in military 
order ; and directed them to lie down, and not to dis- 
charge the arrows at random, but to make sure of a 
white man each time. The battle lasted about three 
hours, during which two of the bravest of the fighters, 
the Romero brothers, were wounded. One of them 
could not help expressing admiration for the bravery of 
Stanislaus, as he noticed his conduct during the fight, 
and he informed Castro, who was in command, that it 



342 A MASSACRE OF WOMEN AND CHILDREN. 

would be impossible to win, as the Indians were in supe- 
rior force and were well supplied with arrows. The 
Californians then withdrew, with their recovered horses. 
The loss of the enemy could not be definitely ascer- 
tained, but it was considerable in killed and wounded. 

In the summer of 1841 the Indians of the Clear 
Lake region committed some depredations, and troops, 
to the number of fifty or sixty, were sent out under 
command of Captain Salvador Vallejo to vanquish them. 
Reaching the Indians, he found them in their temes- 
cales, and as they emerged from the steaming huts, one or 
two at a time, they were barbarously shot or cut down, 
until about 150 men, women and children had been 
slaughtered. When the news of the massacre reached 
Yerba Buena, the people were horrified. I remember 
that Spear spoke of it as nothing but butchery, for 
which there was no justification ; and the officers of 
Wilkes' expedition regarded it in the same light. 

No doubt the Indians deserved some chastisement 
for the offenses, or at least their leaders did, but no 
such punishment as was inflicted. 

Solano, after whom Solano county was called, was 
a noted chief. He exercised great influence over the 
tribes, and had the confidence and respect of General 
Vallejo, who conferred with him, and communicated to 
him his wishes and views. He assisted the general in 
keeping the Indians in subjection. 

In 1843, sixty or seventy Indians, commanded by 
the brother of Yoscolo, came to the rancho San Pablo, 



stole several hundred horses and then retreated. One 
of the owners of the rancho, with his brother and four 
other CaHfornians, and two domesticated Indians, went 
in pursuit. The thieves were found in the neighbor- 
hood of Mount Diablo. The little party approached, 
and succeeded in capturing two of the Indians, whom 
they put to instant death. 

The main body of the Indians coming up, a fight 
took place, lasting two or three hours, during which 
the horse of the leader of the party was killed under 
him. He made a barricade of the body of the animal 
and fought behind it, and in the fight he shot the 
leader of the savages dead with his pistol, — the same 
chief who had killed Briones in 1839. After the fall 
of their leader the others became dismayed, and re- 
treated, leaving three or four dead upon the field and 
abandoning the stolen horses. 

The Indians sometimes fought with poisoned ar- 
rows. In fighting expeditions the CaHfornians were 
usually accompanied by an Indian doctor, who was pro- 
vided with an herb which he used as an antidote to the 
poison. Indians, themselves, also made use of it. 
When a man was wounded by an arrow the Indian doc- 
tor applied his mouth to the wound and sucked out the 
blood and the poison with it. He then chewed some 
of the herb and injected it into the wound. 

Some time prior to i860 a man named O'Connor 
obtained possession of a portion of the Rancho San 
Pablo by purchase, transfer or otherwise. The ranchero 



344 ^ COOL PERFORMANCE. 

permitted him to remain, respecting his claim, and 
did not distrust him so long as he remained upon his 
own premises, but would not allow the slightest encroach- 
ment upon land the owner occupied as a homestead. 
Squatters would take possession of lands belong- 
ing to the Californians. A certain ranchero, by his 
coolness and bravery, succeeded in driving them from 
his premises and in keeping them off, sometimes facing 
guns and pistols. He never had to fire upon a man, 
though fully armed on these occasions and on the alert 
to use his weapons, if necessary. The owner of the 
rancho, one day in i860, riding over his land, mounted 
on a fine horse, with a reata on his saddle, noticed that 
some laborers employed by O'Connor had come over 
the border and were at work upon his land. He per- 
emptorily ordered them off, and threatened to thrash 
them with the reata if they did not instantly obey. 
O'Connor coming up to interfere, commenced an angry 
dispute, drew a pistol, and was in the act of firing at 
the ranchero when the latter quickly flung out the lasso 
and caught O'Connor round the neck. The rider put- 
ting spurs to his horse, the unfortunate man was 
dragged along at a furious rate. Luckily, the ran- 
chero's son happened to be near at hand, also mounted 
on a swift steed, ' He rushed forward in pursuit, and 
dexterously cut the reata between horse and victim, 
thus saving the latter's life. A witness, giving an ac- 
count of the occurrence, said, he never saw anything 
more admirable than the whole performance, in cool- 
ness, quickness and courage. 



DANGEROUS USE OF THE REATA 345 

The rcata was a slender woven cord about eighty 
feet in length, and made of very strong leather or strips 
of hide untanned. In the hands of a Californian it was 
not only a very useful implement, as well as means 
of amusement at times, but was also a powerful weapon, 
as has been shown by the instance just mentioned. It 
was carefully handled, as much so as a firearm, acci- 
dents sometimes happening from its use. 

A ranchero of my acquaintance was once in the 
act of securing the reata to the pommel of the saddle, 
just after a steer had been lassoed, when his hand got 
under the lasso, between it and the saddle, and the 
strain which came at that instant almost severed the 
fingers of his hand from the remainder. In two or 
three weeks thereafter lock-jaw set in, from which he 
died. There are numbers of instances where a Cali- 
fornian has lost a thumb or forefinger of the right hand 
by having it caught and cut off in the same manner by 
the reata, while in the act of securing it to the saddle. 

To the Californian the lasso was an indispensable 
part of his equipment on all occasions when he started 
away from home. In expeditions against the Indians 
and in military campaigns, every man took his reata 
along with him, not only for use for ordinary purposes, 
but as a weapon of offense and defense in cases of ne- 
cessity. If, on starting out, he had been compelled to 
choose between pistol and reata which to take with him, 
he would have chosen the latter as being the more use- 
ful of the two. 



34^ A RESCUE FROM THE SURF. 

I remember where the use ofthereata in an extra- 
ordinary way saved a man's life. Between San Luis 
Obispo and Guadalupe, the regular road in some parts 
was quite sandy. Traveling over it was heavy work. 
Another and at times better road ran nearer the ocean, 
part of the way along the beach when the tide served. 
Don Luis Estudillo happened to be going from Guad- 
alupe to San Luis Obispo one day in the spring of 
1875, and reached the Arroyo Grande at the moment a 
wagon and four horses, driven by a young man, were 
struggling in the water, after an attempt to ford, when 
the tide was high, at the point where the beach road 
crossed that estuary. Seeing the stranger in this 
plight, being borne out by the current into the ocean, 
and hearing his cries for help, Don Luis prepared 
to assist in a rescue. He knew it would not be prudent 
to plunge his horse into the swift tide, so he rode in 
only a short distance, and casting the reata the full 
length, with all his force, it just reached far enough. 
The loop passed over the young man's head and went 
round his neck. Calling loudly to him to catch hold 
with his hands, so that he would not be strangled, Don 
Luis then gently drew him ashore, and saved his life. 
The horses and wagon were carried out to sea and lost. 

About the year 1801 Jose de la Guerra y Noriega, 
a captain in the Spanish army, came from Mexico and 
located at Santa Barbara, as comandante of that pre- 
sidio. He was born about 1775, at Novales Santander, 
in Spain. When Mexico severed allegiance to Spain 



LAS POSAS, SIMI AND OTHER RANCHOS. 347 

he resigned his commission in the army and was elected 
as depidado to represent the department at the caj)ital 
city. During^ his residence in CaHfornia he acquired 
immense wealth in lands, cattle, horses, sheep and 
money. He owned the Las Posas rancho, of twelve 
leagues, and the Simi rancho, of fourteen leagues, about 
half way between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles, the 
two ranchos being nearly adjoining. Each rancho had 
from 5000 to 6000 head of cattle and about 2000 horses. 
He also owned the Callegua rancho, of five leagues, with 
2000 head of cattle and a large number of horses ; also 
El Conejo rancho, of three leagues, with 1000 head of 
cattle and many horses, and the San Julian rancho, of 
eleven leagues, with 10,000 head of cattle and a large 
number of horses. His possessions covered a vast 
area, and were equal to a small kingdom. In all these 
ranchos the horses aggregated 5000 to 8000. His sons 
were Jose Antonio, Francisco, Pablo, Joaquin Miguel, 
and Antonio Maria. His daughters were Teresa, wife 
of Hartnell ; Augusta, wife of Jimeno; Anita, wife of 
Don Alfredo Robinson, and Maria Antonia, wife of Lat- 
aillade, and after his death, of Caspar. 

I became well acquainted with the old gentleman 
in 1842. He still retained his title of captain, by which 
he was always called. I sold him large quantities ot 
goods at different times. He was a close buyer, gen- 
erally paying cash (Mexican and Spanish doubloons). 
What money the vessels collected was used for the pur- 
chase of hides. Being introduced by Henry Melius to 



34^ TREASURE BASKETS. 

the captain in 1842, he received me with a good deal of 
dignity and coolness, and rather pompously ; but on 
learning that I was the son of Don Guillermo Davis, 
who had visited the coast many years before, he wel- 
comed me cordially ; paying my father many compli- 
ments ; saying that he knew him well, and had bought 
from him largely. I was afterward quite a favorite of 
his, and came to know him well. While supercargo of 
the " Don Quixote" in 1842 and '43 I made four or five 
sales to him, ranging from $2000 to $4000 each. 

On these occasions Noriega took me to the attic 
of his house, where he kept his treasure, the room being 
used exclusively for that purpose. There was no stair- 
way, the attic being reached by a ladder, which was re- 
moved when not in use. In this room were two old- 
fashioned Spanish chairs, and ranged round about were 
twelve or fifteen coras — strong, compactly-woven bask- 
ets, of different sizes, made by Indians, the largest hold- 
ing, perhaps, half a bushel — all of which contained gold, 
some nearly full. The money amounted to a consider- 
able sum in the aggregate. I was astonished to see 
so much coin in the possession of one person in a coun- 
try where the wealth consisted mainly of horses and 
cattle. The old gentleman said that the attic was the 
safest place in which to keep it. I asked him how he 
managed to collect so much gold, and he replied that it 
was the accumulations of all the years he had been on 
the coast. The Spanish soldiers, when they were paid 
off, spent their money freely, and he had supplied them 



SALES MADE BY THE AUTHOR. 349 

with what they wanted, having carried on a store of his 
own. 

Many articles were required to supply also his 
ranchos, and he paid his vaqueros in goods, as they 
had not much use for money ; and on these he made 
more or less profit. He also sold his hides and tallow, 
besides otter and other fur skins, for cash ; and had 
thus collected his great treasure. He had no occasion 
to spend money except for purchases from the vessels. 
Being a good merchant and shrewd manager, he knew 
how to take care of money. Noriega had also at Santa 
Barbara a vineyard, from which he made wine and 
aguardiente. 

In 1846 I owned one-third of the brig "Euphemia," 
the other two-thirds being owned by Captain Grimes 
and his nephew Hiram Grimes. I was supercargo, 
and being at Santa Barbara with the vessel. Captain 
Noriega asked to see the invoice of my goods, and 
seemed very anxious to purchase. That day and the 
next, I sold him about ten thousand dollars' worth, 
for which he paid coin. After visiting San Diego on 
this trip, and returning in January, 1847, I sold him 
goods to the amount of three or four thousand dollars 
more, which he paid for in cash and in hides. 

Some of the old gentleman's boys were a little 
wild. Knowing that their father had plenty of money 
and the place where it was deposited, they devised a 
plan to secure some of it for their own use. The lad- 
der was kept in the old captain's bedroom, beyond their 



350 CAPTAIN NORIEGA. 

reach. So they dimbed to the roof from the outside, 
and took off two or three of the tiles, beneath which 
were standing these baskets of gold. Reaching down 
into the baskets with an improvised pitchfork, they 
drew out as many coins as they thought it advis?ble to 
take. How often this operation was repeated and how 
much of the old gentleman's treasure thus disappeared 
is not known, but the trick was soon discovered and re- 
ported, and this mode of abstraction was brought to an 
end. As the captain did not know how much money 
he had in the baskets, of course he could not tell how 
much he had lost. 

When I first knew him, he was nearly seventy, 
and retained his fine personal appearance. He was the 
sire of many handsome sons and daughters. 

Being the wealthiest man in that part of Califor- 
nia, and having so much money, he was applied to by 
the rancheros for loans when they were in need of 
funds. The loans were made on promises to repay in 
beef cattle at the killing season, or in heifers, or in 
hides and tallow after cattle had been killed ; the lender 
taking the borrower's word as security, as was the 
custom. 

In the spring of the }ear, the number of heifers 
agreed upon would be delivered to him to add to his 
own stock, heifers being more easily domesticated in a 
new place than older cattle ; or at the 7natan2a season 
the beef cattle or the hides and tallow would be delivered, 
and the debt thus cancelled. 



CAPTAIN NORIEGA. 35 1 

When cattle, old or young, were transferred from 
one rancho to another, as was frequently the case in 
the dealinc^s of the rancheros with each other, it 
was generally done in the spring of the year, the 
new feed being then plentiful, and they were easier 
aquerenciado, or domesticated, in their new pasture 
than at any other season, A band of cattle taken to 
another rancho, would be placed under the charge of 
vaqueros, and watched and herded at first very care- 
fully. Becoming accustomed to the new place, and less 
restless and uneasy, they were allowed more liberty of 
range, and at night were coralled. After some weeks, 
they were habituated to their new surroundings, and 
turned in with the other cattle, becoming a part of the 
general band belonging to the rancho. 



CHAPTER XLIII. 

Several Arrivals from Boston by Sea — A Party on Shipboard — Sad Fate of 
Captain Vincent — Thomas B. Park comes out to San Francisco — Dies Soon 
After — Active Competition in the Vessel Trade of the Port — First Arrival of 
Melius — Robinson's Dislikes — Melius goes Fast and Returns — His Precision 
and Caution as a Business Man — Melius gets Married- — Sells out his Business 
^Goes' East again — Returns and Locates at Los Angeles — A Constructive 
Insult Offered his Wife at a Dancing Party, by an Officer of the Army named 
Bonnycastle — Melius Challenges Bonnycastle — A P'riend offers Himself as a 
Substitute to Fight for Melius — The Duel Comes Off — Bonnycastle Shot in 
the Hand — Melius Fails in Health — Changes in the Melius Business Firm. 

The ship " Courier" arrived at Monterey, from 
Boston, on the 3d of July, 1826, Captain Cunningham 
master and supercargo, and traded on the coast, collect- 
ing hides and tallow. Thomas Shaw, who came out 
from Boston in the vessel as a carpenter, after her arri- 
val was made clerk and assistant supercargo. He was 
supercargo of the "Lagoda," when she was here in 
1835, ^^^ ^^so of the " Monsoon" which arrived here 
in 1839. George Vincent was second mate of the 
"Courier," and commanded the "Monsoon" in 1839. 
He also commanded the ship ''Sterling," which left 
Boston, in October, 1843, ^^''^ arrived here early in 
1844. She was consigned to Thomas B. Park. Henry 
Richardson came out on this trip from Boston, as clerk 
of the vessel, and died here of typhoid fever. He was 
a young man of great promise, and his death was much 
lamented by those who knew him. Captain Vincent 
also commanded the brig " Sabine," which left Boston 



I 



A PIONEER SEA-CAPTAIN PERISHES IN A FIRE. 353 

in the early part of 1848, arriving here in the midst 
of the gold excitement. Holbrook was owner and 
supercargo. 

The ship "Monsoon" was lying in the harbor, in 
1839, and Sutter left from along-side for the Sacramento 
valley, with the schooners "Isabel" and " Nicolas" 
and his own four-oared boats, as previously described. 
Just prior to our leaving, the whole company was in- 
vited on board the ship for a little farewell entertain- 
ment. We were handsomely treated ; toasts were 
given, and a pleasant time enjoyed. As the visitors left 
the vessel to embark on their expedition, they were 
followed by friendly expressions and best wishes of 
Captain Vincent, his officers and crew. After 1848 the 
captain continued to reside in San Francisco, and made 
one or two trips to Mexico to purchase goods. In 1850 
I had my office in the brick building at the northwest 
corner of Sacramento and Montgomery streets, on the 
second floor, where Captain Vincent also had an of- 
fice and kept his valuables. The second story was 
reached by a flight of stairs from an alley that con- 
nected with Montgomery street. While the great fire 
of May, 1 85 1, was raging, the captain rushed up to 
the office to secure his property, and in returning was 
caught by the fire at the foot of the stairs in the alley, 
and there p. rished, his body being nearly consumed to 
ashes. 

In 1837 Thomas B. Park came out in the ship 
" Alert " from Boston, in the capacity of assistant su- 
23 



354 SHARP COMPETITION IN SELLING FROM VESSELS. 

percargo. On Robinson's return to Boston in the same 
year, in the ship " Cah'fornia," Park took his place as 
agent, and remained here ten or twelve years, and up to 
his death. He was an educated merchant and gentle- 
man. Though not liking the rough travel of a new 
country, and the rambling kind of trade peculiar to 
California, where a good deal of jjush and energy were 
required, but preferring much to be in his own office at- 
tending to his correspondence, with bookkeeper and 
clerks at hand, whom he could direct in the business, 
still he was willing to adapt himself to the circumstances, 
and did travel about to secure his trade ; sought out 
his customers and followed them up, sold his goods, and 
filled his vessels with hides. But he consumed more 
time than others, not moving actively, nor pushing the 
business very vigorously. 

There was a great deal of competition in the early 
days in the selling of goods from vessels, particularly 
at Yerba Buena, which was a distributing point. 
Whenever there were two or more vessels here at a 
time, the supercargoes were very active in getting 
round in their boats, up the creeks, or with their horses 
and vaqueros, to various points about the bay, in order 
to be first at the different ranchos and Missions, to sell 
Sfoods, and collect hides and tallow. The rancheros 
preferred to buy from the vessel rather than from the 
local stores, for the reason that they then got supplies 
at first hand, and, as they thought, to better advantage. 



BRIG ** PILGRIM;" ROBINSON, CONSIGNEE. 355 

Henry Melius came to the coast in the brig " Pil- 
grim," before the mast, in 1834, l^rank Thompson, 
captain. The vessel was consigned to Alfred Robin- 
son. When the brig arrived, the ship " Alert," Cap- 
tain E. F. Falcon, was here, Alfred Robinson, agent 
and supercargo. He transferred Melius from the ves- 
sel, and employed him as clerk. Most of the Boston 
ships in those days had on board three or four boys, of 
good families, who were sent here to get a little experi- 
ence, and learn something of nautical life. Melius was 
one of them. The " Pilgrim," a smaller vessel than 
the others belonging to the same owners, was sent 
as a tender to assist them at rancho landings, such as 
at the Refugio and other points distant from the regu- 
lar ports, and to deliver goods and receive hides and 
tallow. 

Robinson was thorough and systematic in all mer- 
cantile matters — a man of good commercial schooling. 
He had a great dislike for the " Alert's" captain, 
Falcon, and also for John H. Everett, the clerk of the 
vessel, who certainly were very disagreeable. 

In order to get them away from the coast as 
quickly as possible, Robinson loaded the " Pilgrim " 
rapidly, transferred Falcon and Everett, and dispatched 
them, with the brig, home. 

In 1837 Melius returned to Boston, with Robin- 
son, in the ship " California," the agency being left in 
charge of Park. Returning in 1839, as assistant su- 
percargo of the " California," Melius for a time co- 
operated with Park in the agency, and showed great 



356 HENRY MELLUS MARRIES ANITA JOHNSON. 

aptness for business, becoming a successful merchant 
in San Francisco. He was not so demonstrative and 
unreserved as Howard, but said very little, and that 
little to the point. Though unostentatious, he was al- 
ways pleasant and agreeable, and magnetic in manner. 
An excellent manager, he planned everything carefully 
beforehand, and all the details of his business were ex- 
ecuted without jar or confusion. Everything moved 
smoothly, just as designed, and came to a successful is- 
sue. He kept his plans to himself When he sent off 
his boats from the vessel's side, no one unconnected 
with the vessel knew their destinations, and no advan- 
tage could be taken by competitors. In 1846 he mar- 
ried Anita Johnson, the daughter of an Englishman 
who had married a Mexican lady from Sonora. Anita 
was born in Los Angeles. She was pretty and attract- 
ive. A number of children followed the marriage. 
After relinquishing the agency for Bryant & Sturges in 
1848, Melius went to Boston with his family on a visit. 
He returned to this coast in the winter of 1849-50, at 
which time he had an attack of apoplexy. He par- 
tially recovered, but never was the Henry Melius of 
former days. H. F". Teschemacher and he were close 
friends, and he was also on the same friendly terms 
with Alfred Robinson. 

Melius' family lived at Los Angeles after his mar- 
riage. On one occasion a grand party took place there, 
at which were present Mr. and Mrs. Melius, Tesch- 
emacher, and other company, among whom was a young 



BONNYCASTLE CHALLENGED. 357 

officer of the United States army named Bonnycastle. 
During the dancing, Mrs. Melius and Bonnycastle hap- 
pened to be in the same set, and at this time the army 
officer was grossly guilty of the impropriety of press- 
ing the lady's hand ardently. She immediately left the 
room, feeling much aggrieved, and informed her hus- 
band of what had occurred. The result was a challenge 
from Melius to Bonnycastle, which was accepted. The 
latter having the choice of weapons, selected rifles, at 
forty paces. 

On the morning appointed for the meeting Melius 
was reclining on a lounge in his house, very uneasy, and 
much excited at the prospect before him. Being of a 
very sensitive nature, the contemplated duel was quite 
contrary to his inclinations and tastes. He looked for- 
ward to it with forebodings which he could not control. 
A friend much attached to him came into the room, and 
seeing his nervous condition, proposed a compromise* 
urging that since he was a respectable man of family, 
with a good many duties, whereas his adversary was a 
sinele man, the risks would be much less with the lat- 
ter. He proposed to take Melius' place as a principal 
in the duel, and insisted upon it so strongly that Melius 
finally yielded, and allowed him to do so. 

The parties met, and fired, Bonnycastle being 
wounded in the hand. A ring on one of his fingers 
was hit by the bullet and carried away, and the finger 
shattered. Thus the duel terminated. 



35^ THE OLD FIRM OF MELLUS, HOWARD & CO. 

Up to the time of the attack of apoplexy, Melius 
was known as a man of remarkably strong mind, with 
head always clear ; but afterward it was evident that 
his intellect was somewhat impaired, although his con- 
versation was rational and intelligent. I remember 
meeting him at San Diego in 1850, whither he had 
gone for his health. He frequently came to the house 
where my wife and I were staying ; and he seemed 
solicitous about his diet, saying that he dared not im- 
bibe wines of any kind, having to be very careful of 
himself. 

The action on the part of Melius, in relation to 
Howard, created a feeling against him in San Francisco 
and on the coast among those who had known them 
here in the former days, and he became quite unpopu- 
lar ; but I did not join in the outcry against him. My 
regard for him remained undiminished. 

After he had retired from Melius, Howard & Co., 
his brother P>ank went into the concern as partner, 
and the style of the firm became Howard, Melius 
& Co. Frank shortly after withdrew ; the firm name 
was changed to Howard & Green, and so continued to 
the time the partnership was dissolved by the exposure 
of Green and his departure from the city. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

Sharp Practice in Trade — The Rancheros' Favoritism between Bidders — Drying 
Hides Kxtempore — Expedients adopted by a Ranchero to Fill an Order — 
Business Rivalry no Cause for I]I-feeling--Frank and George Melius come to 
California — The Former Marries Here — A Lady's Sarcastic Response — List 
of \'essels sent out to Melius —Don Jose Antonio Aguirre as a Trader on the 
Coast — Other Incidents in his History — He gets an Insight into the Animus 
of Professional (Quarrels among American Lawyers, and other American 
Customs — He Ojiposes the Annexation of Cuba in Vigorous Language. 

Referring again to the competition among the early 
merchants, I recollect some instances of pretty sharp 
practice in the collection of hides and tallow. Mer- 
chants trusted the rancheros largely for the goods they 
sold them, and the indebtedness was paid after cattle 
were killed. The ranchero being more or less in debt 
at all times, would promise a merchant to supply him 
with a certain quantity of hides and tallow at a stipulated 
time ; but shortly before the specified date the ranchero 
would be called upon by another merchant to whom he 
was likewise indebted for goods, and who was also 
anxious to secure hides and tallow, on account of what 
was owing to him, and also to make up a cargo for ship- 
ment. By persistent efforts and persuasion he would 
so work upon the ranchero — who was good-natured 
and obliging, and desirous of accommodating all his 
friends, as far as he was able — as to secure for himself 
a large part of the hides and tallow which had been 
promised to the first one, and carry them ofi triumph- 



360 DOUBLE PROMISES BY THE KANCHEROS. 

antly, somewhat to the chagrin and discomfiture of 
the merchant who had the first contract, who, coming 
shortly afterward, would find that his competitor had 
got ahead of him. The ranchero would then make the 
best of it. explaining that he could not resist the impor- 
tunities of the other, and had been obliged to let the 
hides and tallow q-q to the first arrival. To make 
good his original promise, he would let the second 
comer have the hides and tallow remaining, and would 
collect everything about the place that could be made 
available, even frequently ordering more cattle to be 
slaughtered, the hides taken off, and some tallow melted 
out forthwith. 

When this happened, hides were often taken in a 
green state, and staked out and dried by the merchants 
at Yerba Buena. I have frequently had them spread, 
by stakes, at the vacant space by the water side, between 
Washington and California streets, which was then a 
meadow, covered with short green grass. I have also 
seen them hung up thickly on ropes stretched over the 
decks of vessels, the same way the clothes of the crew 
of a man-of-war are hung in the rigging to dry. The 
tallow in a very soft state was sometimes taken on 
the vessel — before it had cooled and hardened, after 
having been put into the bags. 

It was impossible for the rancheros to pay all the 
merchants at once, as it required time to kill a large 
number of cattle and prepare the hides and tallow. 
The merchant who reached the rancho first, gen- 



MERCHANTS OP' VARIOUS V \TIONALITIES. ■;6l 



O* 



erally had the best bargain, though in the course of 
time the others usually got their share. 

In 1 84 1 a ranchero had promised to deliver to me 
a quantity of hides and tallow on a certain day. I went 
at the time specified, to the ranch landing with the 
schooner " Isabel," expecting a full load, but I found 
that Henry Melius had preceded me the day before, with 
one of his schooners, and had secured nearly the entire 
stock. Upon my appearing, the ranchero and his sons 
expressed a good deal of concern and many regrets. 
They went to work and collected all the dry hides they 
could find on the place, had a lot of bulls slaughtered 
immediately, and the hides taken off, and some of the 
matanza tallow tried out, so that before I left I made 
up nearly a schooner load. This cutting under and 
getting the first grab, was common, and well understood 
among the merchants, but it never caused any ill-feel- 
ing, as it was considered perfectly fair. They joked 
and laughed about it among themselves, and it was 
not thought that any injury was done or unfair advant- 
age taken. The quickest, most enterprising and in- 
dustrious it was conceded should be the winners. The 
last man might be the first on some other occasion. 
There was never any disagreement or hard feeling, or 
quarrel of any kind, or even a coolness where two mer- 
chants would not speak to each other. At all times 
they were on the most friendly footing ; entire good 
feeling prevailed. Of various nationalities — American, 
French, English, Scotch, German and Spanish, as a 
class they were intelligent, high-minded and honorable. 



362 A BASHFUL MELLUS. 

Mr. Frank Melius, a younger brother of Henry, 
came from Boston in 1840, in the " Alert," and was em- 
ployed as clerk and educated by Henry in business. 
On his arrival, he was green-looking and bashful, and 
he always retained boyish appearance and bearing. 
He failed to command that respect and deference which 
was felt towards his brother. He was a good fellow 
however, though impulsive and easily excited, and 
proved to be quite smart and efficient. The Califor- 
nians gave him the nickname of Fultninante (percus- 
sion cap), by reason of his excitability. He married 
Adelaide Johnson, a sister of Henry's wife, a very 
handsome and vivacious young lady. George Melius 
another brother came to the coast in 1849. 

In 1850 a beautiful bark, of several hundred tons, 
owned by Henry Melius, Don Alfredo Robinson and 
others, arrived from Boston with a cargo designed es- 
pecially for Los Angeles. She anchored at San Pedro 
and discharged the goods. The vessel was named 
after the Christian name of a California lady, then the 
wife of a very wealthy gentleman living in one of the 
southern counties. Several years since, this lady, while 
at the Palace Hotel, was called upon by an acquaint- 
ance of hers, a Spanish-American gentleman, who, in 
the course of conversation, asked if she would sing ; 
she replied, facetiously and with the utmost good 
nature, '' No puedo cantar, pero puedo encantar' (Can- 
not sing, but I can enchant). 



JOSE ANTONIO AGUIRRE. 363 

Spear and Henry Melius were very good friends. 
Each called the other covipadre, though this relation did 
not actually exist between them. I have heard Spear 
speak in the highest terms of Melius, and compliment 
him for good business judgment. 

The following is a list of the vessels which were 
sent out to Henry Melius by Bryant & Sturgis. while 
acting as their agent : ship " California," Captain Arthur ; 
ship " Alert," Captain Phelps ; ship " Barnstable," (first 
voyage) Captain Hatch ; ship " Barnstable," (second 
voyage) Captain Hall; ship "Admittance." Captain 
Peterson; bark " Tasso," Captain Libbey; and bark 
'• Olga," Captain Bull. 

Don Jose Antonio Aguirre was one of the most 
prominent early merchants of California. At the time 
of the separation of Mexico from the Spanish govern- 
ment, he was in business in the city of Mexico, and 
largely interested in trade with Manila and Canton, 
which was carried on extensively between those places 
and Mexico. The importation of cargoes of Manila 
and China goods, was a branch of the business he con- 
ducted. , He remained loyal to Spain after the separa- 
tion, and in consequence was expelled from Mexico, as 
was the case with many other loyal Spaniards. Com- 
ing to California he made his mercantile headquarters 
at Santa Barbara and San Diego. He owned the brig 
" Leonidas," and afterward the " Joven Guipuzcoana." 
Fine-looking and of commanding appearance, though 
of rather a severe bearing toward strangers, his man- 



364 JOSE ANTONIO AGUIRRE. 

ners were affable and genial to those who knew him 
well. He was a genuine merchant, thoroughly edu- 
cated. His first wife was a dauo^hter of Prefect Es- 
tudillo, of San Diego. In 1842 Aguirre had the finest 
residence in Santa Barbara. His wife dying there, he 
afterward married her sister. He was a great church 
man, and a favorite of the missionaries. He had visited 
the United States; was well-read, and was appreciative 
of our institutions and government. 

In conversing with me he gave expression to 
his views with regard to us ; he thought that at the 
rate we were progressing in time we would be thegreat- 
est nation on earth. One thing about which he spoke 
seemed to have produced in him amazement : that in 
the courts, which he sometimes visited from interest or 
curiosity, during the trial of a case, he would hear the 
arguments on either side, in which the opposing coun- 
sel appeared to be the greatest enemies, ready to tear 
each other to pieces, and yet, after the trial was closed, 
they would calm down and be the best of friends ; and 
the same peculiarity was noticeable in our elections, 
when the prejudices and passions of men were excited 
on opposite sides ; when resentments were aroused, 
hot words were exchanged, and all kinds of abusive 
things were said ; yet, after the election, the combatants 
came together on the best of terms. He thought this 
a fine trait in the American character, and spoke of it 
with admiration. 



JOSE ANTONIO AGUIRRE. 365 

Aguirre was my guest from the early part of 1848 
up to end of 1849. Spear was there at the same time, 
and Aguirre and he became cronies. Often they had 
dissensions, but only upon political and national affairs. 

The proposition that the United States might ac- 
quire Cuba by conquest or purchase had been broached, 
and Spear argued in favor of it, which would anger 
Aguirre, and he would denounce the project in severe 
terms, declaring in emphatic language that Spain would 
fight to the last drop of blood before she would surren- 
der the island. 

This worthy gentlemen had a large estate. The 
San Jacinto Nuevo Rancho, of eleven leagues, and sev- 
eral other smaller ranchos in San Diego county, and 
two or three leagues in Los Angeles county, were 
among his possessions, besides many cattle and horses. 
Four children and his wife survived him. The widow 
afterward married another Spaniard named Ferrer, who 
squandered all the property which the first husband had 
left to her. 



CHAPTER XLV. 



A New Arrival on the Scene, in the Person of Miguel de Pedrorena — Something 
Concerning Him^He Assists in getting Horses for Stockton's Command — 
Displays Bravery in Battle — Ingenious Device of Gale and Robinson to Dis- 
pose of a Cargo of Merchandise— Indians as Boat-Builders, Boatmen and 
Otter Hunters — A Vessel Seized — Her Cargo Confiscated — A Knock-down 
on Board — Thompson, the Supercargo, Borne off and Imprisoned — The 
Cargo Released and Thompson Set Free — Suicide of Henry Paty at Sea — 
Everett Arrives Again on the Bark " Tasso " — An Exceptionally Disagreeable 
Man. 

In 1838 Don Miguel de Pedrorena, a resident of 
Peru, arrived here, being at the time part owner and 
supercargo of the " Dehnira." The vessel was under 
the Peruvian flag, and John Vioget was her captain. 

The " Delmira " was loaded with tallow, and left 
the coast in 1839, Don Miguel remaining here. In 
1840 the brig "Juan Jose," Captain Duncan, was sent 
to him from Peru, he being part owner and supercargo. 
The other owners, whom he represented, were in Lima 
— a wealthy house. Most of their goods were imported 
from Europe to Peru, and they sought to increase their 
business by these ventures to California. The " Juan 
Jose " loaded with tallow, and returned to Peru. After- 
ward she made another voyage hither for the same sort 
of cargo. 

Don Miguel was a native of Spain, and belonged 
to one of the first families of Madrid. After receiv- 
ing an education in his own country he was sent to Lon- 
don, where he was educated in English, becoming a 



MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA. 367 

complete scholar. Most of the Castillian race of the 
upper class are proud and aristocratic ; but Don Mi- 
guel, though of high birth, was exceedingly affable, 
polite, gracious in manner and bearing, and, in every 
respect, a true gentleman. He married a daughter of 
Prefect Estudillo, and resided in San Diego until the 
time of his death in 1850, leaving one son, Miguel, and 
two daughters, Elena and Ysabel. He was a member 
of the convention at Monterey in 1849, for the forma- 
tion of the state constitution. He owned the Cajon 
Rancho and San Jacinto Nuevo Rancho, each contain- 
inor eleven leas^ues, with some cattle and horses. Not- 
withstanding these large holdings of land he was in 
rather straightened circumstances in his latter years, 
and so much in need of money that when I visited San 
Diego in the early part of 1850 he offered to sell 
me thirty-two {32) quarter-blocks of land (102 lots) 
in San Diego at a low figure. He had acquired the 
property in the winter of 1849-50, at the alcalde's sale. 
I did not care for the land, but being flush, and having a 
large income from my business, I took the land, paying 
him thirteen or fourteen hundred dollars for it. 

In Madrid he had several brothers and other 
relatives, one of his brothers being a Minister at that 
time in the Cabinet of the reigning monarch. During 
the last two or three years of his life, these relatives 
becoming aware of his unfortunate circumstances, 
wrote to him repeatedly, urging him to come home to 
Spain, and bring his family with him. They sent him 



368 



MAJOR HENSLEV. 



means, and assured him that he would be welcomed. 
Though poor, his proud disposition led him to decline 
all these offers. Popular with everybody in the depart- 
ment, the recollections of him by those who knew him 
are exceedingly pleasant. Spear was much attracted 
toward him on account of his fine scholarship and great 
store of information. He did all he could to make the 
acquaintance mutually agreeable. 

When Commodore Stockton was making his prep- 
arations for the recapture of Los Angeles, in the latter 
part of 1846, at San Diego, at which point the fleet 
then lay, Don Miguel Pedrorena offered his services as 
cavalryman, which were accepted. He also rendered aid 
to Stockton before he started on the expedition, by pro- 
curing him supplies of horses. Being an active man, 
familiar with the country and people, he did this very 
readily, Don Santiaguito E, Arguello also volunteered 
his services to Stockton, and assisted Pedrorena. Both 
of these men were appointed captains in Stockton's 
force, and both had cavalry commands. Major Sam- 
uel J, Hensley, who joined Stockton at Yerba Buena 
in the fall of 1846, and went with him to San Diego in 
the " Congress," also joined Pedrorena and Arguello in 
scouring the country for horses, and getting as many 
of the Californians as they could to join the expedition. 
Hensley also had a command under Stockton. Not 
only before the force started, but during their progress 
from San Diego to the river of San Gabriel, these 
three men rendered invaluable service to the commodore 



THE AGENTS OF BRVANT & STURGIS. 369 

by inducing other Californians to join and augment the 
force. I think there were about one hundred CaHfor- 
nians on Stockton's side, when the conflict took pxjace. 
Hensley, who had been in the country a good while, 
was an accomplished horseman, entirely at home in the 
saddle. He and Pedrorena and Arguello were brave 
men, cool, collected, self-po.ssessed, determined, and 
consequently were of value. In the battle they all dis- 
played great judgment and bravery. 

Don Santiaguito was an Indian fighter, and had 
been always foremost in proceeding promptly against 
the Indians whenever they committed depredations on 
the people, as they often did. He organized many of 
the hasty expeditions which were gotten up on the spur 
of the moment to pursue and chastise them on such 
occasions, and was verv successful in overtaking and 
punishing them as they deserved. Often he was in a 
good deal of danger in the engagements, and I have 
known him at times to be in very critical circumstances, 
but never in the least flurried or excited — always calm 
and collected, fully aware of what he was about, bring- 
ing himself finally out all right. This man was a nephew 
of Don Luis Aroruello, the first native California 2fov- 
ernor of the department. 

In 1834 Alfred Robinson and William G. Gale, 
who were associated in the agency for Bryant & Stur- 
gis, were at Santa Barbara, awaiting the arrival of the 
ship "California" at that port. One day seeing a ves- 
sel approach the town, between the islands, they went 



Zl*^ MORE CALIFORNIA CUSTOMS. 

toward the beach and made her out to be their vessel. 
On their way they met Thomas Shaw, supercargo of 
the " Lagoda," coming up to the town, when Robinson 
called out exultingly to him, " Look out, Shaw ! There's 
the 'California' coming; you'll have some competition 
now." 

The Missions were rich at the time, and the two 
agents, in order to make large sales of goods, con- 
cocted an ingenious plan, which they carried into effect, 
as follows : After the captain had been ordered to take 
the ship to Monterey, they started up the coast on 
horses, with their invoices of goods. Pretending to be 
rivals, Gale would go first, on coming to a Mission, and 
present his invoice to the Padres, and after they had 
made large selections from the list, Robinson, who was 
much liked by the Fathers and friendly with all of them, 
smilingly*^ presented his invoice, and made extensive 
sales also. Repeating this at other Missions, by the 
time Monterey was reached they had sold an enormous 
quantity of merchandise. Each had prepared a list 
of the cargo. 

Gale was known on the coast by the name of Don 
Guillermo el Cuatro Ojos (Four Eyes), from the fact 
that he wore glasses ; this name having been bestowed 
by the Californians, who were given to nicknaming a 
person with anything peculiar in his appearance or man- 
ner. By such name he was known to everybody during 
his stay here. The custom prevailed more particularly 
in the southern portion of the department, where two 



BOATS OF ANCIENT PATTERN. 37 1 

ladies, cousins of my wife, were nicknamed, one "N^u- 
tria' (Sea Otter) and the other ''Pichona" (Dove), and 
so addressed to this day. 

The Padres not only taught the Indians to build 
vessels and boats, but instructed them also in their man- 
agement, and made sailors of them. They were some- 
times employed as such by myself and other merchants 
at Yerba Buena, upon boats that were attached to the 
vessels, or that were owned on shore, in the delivery of 
goods and collecting hides and tallow. The Padres 
also instructed the Indians how to shoot and capture 
otters in the best manner. Hence, their accumulation 
of so large a number of fur skins, when the sea otters 
were plentiful about the bay and along the coast. 

I remember that in 1833, hides and tallow were 
brought to the vessel in schooners and launches manned 
and commanded by Indians, from the Mission Dolores 
and the Missions of San Jose, Santa Clara and San 
Rafael, the vessels and boats having been built at the 
Missions by the Indians, under instructions from the 
Padres, after designs and models prepared by them of 
a very ancient pattern. They reminded me of illustra- 
tions of old vSpanish vessels. 

Richardson owned one of these vessels, built at 
the Mission of San Rafael, called the " Tava," and 
the old Indian Monico was one of the crew, who were 
all Indians. Old Domintro Peraltahad another of these 
peculiar boats, built at one of the Missions. Nathan 
Spear had control of a boat of this kind in 1839, be- 



■Ty'J2 A SUPERCARGO IN TROUBLE. 

longing to the Mission of San Jose. It will be seen 
that the Padres, in addition to their missionary work 
and the teaching of various trades to the Indians, were 
also shipwrights and skilled workmen in the building of 
vessels and boats. 

About 1833 the brig " Loriot." Captain Nye, ar- 
rived from Honolulu with a cargo of merchandise, A. 
B. Thompson, supercargo. Shortly after, orders were 
sent from Monterey to have the vessel and cargo seized, 
upon the presumption that full duties had not been paid. 
Don Jose Sanchez was directed to board the vessel and 
arrest Thompson. He accordingly proceeded to do so, 
accompanied by a squad of soldiers. Reaching the deck 
of the vessel and approachmg to make the arrest, San- 
chez drew a pistol and aimed it at Thompson, who in- 
stantly struck it from the officer's hand, and at the same 
moment knocked him down and jumped upon him. The 
soldiers came to Sanchez' aid and gave him protection. 
Thompson was taken ashore and imprisoned at the 
Presidio, where he remained for some considerable time. 
After his arrest the whole cargo was removed to shore, 
together with the stores of the vessel, and the sails 
were unbent and taken away. P^inally an order was re- 
ceived from headquarters to release the cargo and other 
property of the vessel and to liberate Thompson, which 
was carried into effect. During the detention the cargo 
and stores deteriorated in condition, particularly the lat- 
ter, which were also much diminished in quantity. 

The trip of the "Loriot" to Honolulu from Bos- 
ton, prior to her coming here, was one of the longest 



REDWOOD LUMBER IN 1 849. 373 

on record — occupying two hundred days. On this voy- 
age, Henry, a younger brother of Captain Paty, came 
out, also Eh Southworth, both from Plymouth, Mass. 
Henry was part owner of the " Don Quixote," and in 
the year 1840, while the vessel was on a voyage from 
Valparaiso to Honolulu, many of the crew were sick 
from small-pox contracted in Chili, and several died on 
the passage, which so affected the mind of Henry that 
though not taking the disease, he became demented. 
Looking^ into a mirror in his state-room, he took a razor 
and cut his throat. He was buried at sea. Southworth 
was interested in the " Don Quixote." From 1843 to 
1845 he was with me in Verba Buena as my clerk. 
After 1849 h^ went to the redwoods, and engaged men 
in getting out lumber for a number of years, but did not 
make a success of the venture, financially. In 1853 he 
came to live at my house at San Leandro, and remained 
there until hedied, in 1857. 

As an exception to the uniformity of friendship 
and good feeling which prevailed on the coast in early 
days between the foreigners and Californians, and, in 
fact, between all classes in all their relations, I wish to 
mention that Everett, who has been spoken of as com- 
ing here in the " Alert," was a disagreeable man. He 
arrived again in the bark " Tasso," as supercargo, with 
Captain Hastings, in 1840. Mean, selfish, and repulsive 
in his appearance and manners, his unhappy disposition 
was shown by his continually quarreling with Cap- 
tain Hastings, who was a gentleman. However, 



374 AN UNPOPULAR SUPERCARGO. 

notwithstanding his unpopularity and the general dis- 
favor with which he was regarded, he succeeded in filling 
his vessel, for the reason that the people were in want 
of the goods which he had brought, and therefore they 
took them in exchange for hides and tallow. Everett, 
contrary to the usual custom of the merchants, never 
made presents to the people, or showed them any friendly 
courtesies. They themselves were always generous 
to strangers, making them welcome to whatever they 
had. They would have disdained an offer of compen- 
sation for such kindness. But the merchants, having 
been so well treated by them, and having shared, more 
or less, in their hospitality, naturally reciprocated the 
good feeling, and showed their appreciation and friend- 
ship by making presents from time to time, thereby 
cultivating a kindly spirit. 



CHAPTER XLVI. 

Young Pacheco and his Studies — His Wealthy Family meets with Misfortune in 
the Loss of Live Stock, in the Drouth of 1864— Statement of the Export 
Trade in Hides and Tallow — Estimate of Tallow Exportation — Signaling 
from Shore for Vessels in the Harbor to come for Fresh Beef — Places for 
Slaughtering Cattle — A Ludicrous Gastronomic Contest — Vioget afterwards 
Employed by the Author as Captain of the " Euphemia." 

Governor Pacheco, a boy in 1842, was sent to 
Honolulu to be educated. After remaining about two 
years, under the tuition of Mr. and Mrs. Johnston, he 
returned. The ship " Sterling" then being in port, he 
went on board, and for a year or more traveled about 
in company with Thomas B. Park, supercargo, from 
whom he received a orood deal of instruction in mer- 
cantile matters ; it being a fine opportunity for the 
young man, who was bright and teachable. In 1861 he 
went to Europe, on a tour of travel and observation. 
At that time, and prior, his stepfather, Captain Wilson, 
and his mother and the family owned several extensive 
ranches in San Louis Obispo county, adjoining one 
another, which the captain had bought from different 
owners, and which contained fourteen thousand to six- 
teen thousand head of cattle, and many horses ; being a 
large number of cattle for a single owner at that date. 
After the death of Captain Wilson, the family met with 
the misfortune of losing the cattle and horses by star- 
vation in the dry season of 1864, nearly all of their 
stock perishing for lack of feed. At this time vaqueros 



^i^d HIDE AND TALLOW EXPORTS. 

were busily employed taking off the hides. They 
were obliged to work very speedily (so many cattle 
were dead, and others dyings day by day), to save the 
skins in marketable condition. The hiring of men was 
expensive, and left but little profit on the hides, The 
great loss was the beginning and cause of financial 
troubles, and they lost nearly the whole of their land. 
A statement of the export of hides and tallow 
from the department of California, from 1826 to 1848, 
has been prepared by me, gathered partly from actual 
knowledge of the cargoes taken by particular vessels, 
and partly estimated from the size of the' vessels which 
loaded previous to my residence here ; these vessels 
always taking full cargoes on their return to the At- 
lantic coast, viz : 

No. of Hides. 

Ship " Brookline," departure 1831 40,000 

Ship "Courier," Capt. Cunningham, departure 1828 40,000 

Bark " Louisa,'' Capt. Wood, departure 1831 25,000 

Bark " Volunteer,"' Capt. Carter, departure 1832 20,000 

Ship " California," departure 1833 40,000 

Brig " Newcastle," departure 1833 10,000 

Brig " Plant," tender to " California" 1833 10,000 

Schooner " Harriet Blanchard," departure 1833 8,000 

Bark "Volunteer," Capt. Carter, departure 1834 20,000 

Brig " Roxana," tender to " California" 1834.- 10,000 

Brig " Pilgrim," Captain Falcon, departure 1834 10,000 

Ship "Alert," Capt. Frank Thompson, (R. H. Dana came out 

on this vessel), departure 1834 40,000 

Ship " Lagoda," Capt. Bradshaw, departure 1836 40,000 

Bark " Kent," Capt. Steele, departure winter 1836-37 30,000 

Brig "Bolivar Liberator," Capt. Nye, three or four trips, 

departures 1836 to 1843 60,000 

Ship •' California," Capt. Arthur, departure 1837 40.000 

Ship " Rasselas," Capt. Carter. Honolulu, departure 1837.. . 35,000 

Ship "Alert," Capt. Penhallow, departure winter 1838-39. . . 40,000 



ENORMOUS PRODUCT OF TALLOW. ^^TJ 

Bark " Don Quixote,"' Captain Paty, four or five trips to Hon- 
olulu, departures 1838 to 1845 60,000 

Ship " Alciope,"' Capt. Clapp, departure 1840 30,000 

Ship " California," Capt. Arthur, departure winter 1840-41 . . 40,000 

Ship " Monsoon," Capt. Vincent, departure winter 1840-41... 40,000 

Bark " Tasso,'" Capt. Hastings, departure winter 1841-42 ... 35,000 

Ship '• Alert," Capt. Phelps, departure winter 1842-43 40,000 

Ship ■' Barnstable," Capt. Hatch, departure 1843-44 40,000 

Ship '• California,"' Capt. Arthur, departure 1843-44 40,000 

Ship " Fama," Capt. Hoyer, departure 1843-44 20,00° 

Ship "Admittance," Capt. Peterson, departure 1845 40,000 

Ship "Sterling," Capt. "Vincent, departure 1845 30,000 

Ship " Vandalia." Capt. Everett, departure 1846 40,000 

Ship "Barnstable," Capt. Hall, departure winter 1846-47 . . . 40,000 

Bark '• Tasso." Capt. Libbey. departure 1847 35j00o 

Bark " Olga," Capt. Bull, departure winter 1847-48 25,000 

Total 1,068,000 

Probably an underestimate. The actual number 
of hides exported approximated one million and a 
quarter. 

With regard to the amount of tallow exported 
during the above period — -I have already mentioned that 
the killing sea.son was when the cattle were the fattest, 
each bullock producing on an average three to four ar- 
robas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow, besides the manteca 
reserved for home use. I n the winter season, when cattle 
were killed for home consumption and for the use of 
the vessels, the tallow would average perhaps not over 
one arroba to the bullock. Taking the whole year 
through, I place the product of tallow, for export, at two 
arrobas for each animal killed, which, for the one mil- 
lion and a quarter, would give 62,500.000 pounds of 
tallow. 



378 DEER-SKIN SHOES. 

The Californians cut up a great many hides for 
the use of the ranchos. Strips of the skins were used 
for reatas and in building corrals, also for covering 
wagons and for many other purposes. Many of the 
rancheros tanned their own leather, for corasas, nio- 
chillas, angiieras and tapaderas. Some of the sons of 
the rancheros were shoemakers, and made shoes for 
home use. The soles of the shoes were made from the 
leather, and tanned deer skin was used for the uppers. 
The hides were also used to cover the trees of the sad- 
dles and for other purposes. Large quantities of tal- 
low were used by the rancheros for candles and for 
soap. Large amounts of the latter were made by the 
rancheros of the valleys of San Jose, Gilroy and Pajaro 
and sold to the Russians for export to Alaska. 

A vessel in the bay, about once a week ordered 
a bullock for ship's use from one of the ranchos nearest 
by, which would be brought in alive by a vaquero, aided 
by a cabestro, to the meadow between Washington and 
California streets at the water side. A little below 
Spear's store there was a scaffolding, with fall and 
tackle, for hoisting the cattle by the horns after being 
killed, erected by some ship's crew for the use ot the 
vessel and left there. Each of the vessels in the bay 
had a signal deposited at the store, and when a bullock 
was brought in for a vessel or if, for any other purpose 
It was desirable to give notice, the signal was displayed. 
If the tide was up to the beach, then a boat would be 
sent ashore, or if a bullock was expected, perhaps it 



BLUCHER VIOGET. 379 

would be sighted, with the aid of a glass, from the ves- 
sel, and the crew coming ashore, prepared with knives, 
the animal was dispatched, cut up, and the meat taken 
aboard, together with the hide, which was stretched 
above the deck, or against the main rigging, to dry. 
Sometimes the cattle were killed in the primitive 
method, and cut up without hoisting, thus leaving more 
of the blood in the beef. They were so killed and the 
meat prepared at Thompson's Cove, which was a little 
bay south of Clark's Point, and between that and Buck- 
alew or Watchman's Point, where Thompson had abide 
house. Cattle were likewise slaughtered at Monterey, 
San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, San Pedro and San 
Diego, and at other ports or landings, on the beach, for 
the use of vessels. The cattle were slaughtered upon 
the ground, and cut up as they lay, no hoisting ap- 
paratus being used. 

Captain Steele came here in command of the bark 
'■ Kent," in 1835, from Boston. He was good-natured 
and jocular, a vegetarian, and during his stay never 
touched meat. The Fourth of July being celebrated 
in Yerba Buena in 1836, by a public dinner. Captain 
Steele was i)resent, and also John Vioget, two men 
who were like Damon and Pythias — of the same dis- 
position and temperament, and always around about 
the same time. At this banquet. Steele christened 
Vioget as Blucher (after the officer who saved Wel- 
lington from defeat at Waterloo). By that title he was 
afterward known on the coast ; called by it even more 
than bv his real name. 



380 AN EATING CONTEST. 

Vioget was one of the principals in an incident of 
somewhat ridiculous nature. In 1841 a Russian by the 
name of Don Andres Hoeffener. was employed for a 
considerable time by General Vallejo as teacher of 
music for his daughters, at Sonoma, and frequently 
visited Yerba Buena. Being an excellent musician — 
playing with taste and skill the piano, violin and guitar 
— he was popular and well liked, such men being much 
appreciated by the people, who had little in the way of 
good music or amusements. Being sociable and com- 
panionable he frequented V'^ioget's saloon, and became 
a particular friend of the proprietor. 

The latter was known on the coast as a great 
eater, and prided himself on that reputation. Hoeffen- 
er and several others being in the saloon one day en- 
joying themselves, the question of gormandising was 
brought before the company, and he challenged Vioget 
to a contest to determine who was the biggest eater in 
the department. Hoeffener not being known or sus- 
pected in connection with gastronomic feats, the chal- 
lenge was instantly accepted, and a day was hxed tor 
the contest. Invitations were sent out to the merchants 
to attend. I was invited, as were also Spear and others. 

When the trial commenced pancakes were brought 
on, plate after plate, and speedily devoured. Hoefte- 
ner was one plate ahead. The next course was beet- 
steaks, all of which disappeared as rapidly as had the 
other. Hoeffener lead a little on the steaks. Next was 
gisado, a meat stew in the Spanish style — a delicious 



THE CONTESTANTS FINE MUSICIANS. 38 1 

dish, several plates of which were consumed. Next 
came asado, or beef broiled on the spit, many plates. 
Hoeffener a little ahead. After this, beans, Spanish 
style, large quantities of which were disposed of; suc- 
ceeded by tamales, corn prepared as before described, 
each of the contestants eating at least a dozen. An im- 
mense pudding then appeared, followed by pies of vari- 
ous kinds, which were largely consumed. All the food 
had been prepared in the nicest manner, and made in- 
viting, by skilled cooks — old Jack Fuller and assistant. 
The wind up was black coffee, but during the meal no 
drink was taken. \Moget gave out on the pies. Hoefife- 
ner. still eating, was declared the winner. All were as- 
tonished at the quantity of viands that went down the 
throats of those two men. After concluding their re- 
past they got up and moved round, smoked, drank a 
little wine, played billiards, and appeared to suffer no 
inconvenience from the meal each had consumed. 

Vioget was of large frame ; Hoeffener taller, nearly 
six feet in height, slender, but well proportioned. I 
have no doubt each of the gormands ate food enough 
to satisfy a dozen hungry men. Both contestants were 
good musicians, Vioget playing the violin as finely as 
Hoeffener. The former was also an excellent civil en- 
gineer, and had been employed by Captain Sutter in 
surveying his lands. Don Andres Hoeffener's wife 
was a Russian lady, a pretty little woman, and, like 
women in general at Yerba Buena, was much appre- 
ciated. 



382 



VIOGET S DEFEAT EXPLAINED. 



Vioget was afterward captain of the brior " Euphe- 
mia," in 1848. Referring to his defeat in the eating 
match, he said that if he had been as young as Hoeffe- 
ner the latter would not have had any show at all. He 
was some fifteen or twenty years older. 



CHAPTER XLVII. 

An Attempted Partnership Fails — E. & II. Grimes and the Author Purchase the 
"Euphemia" — She is put into the Honohilu Trade — A Visit to Gen. Castro 
— Business Shrewdness — A Gift that is appreciated — The Author Auspiciously 
Inaugurated as a Merchant — Ingratiates himself by Firing a Salute from the 
Vessel— Guests present at a Party on Shipboard — A Customs Officer afraid of 
Scorpions — The Custom House used as a Salesroom — Transactions of Mutual 
Accommodation between Merchants, the Customs Officers and Mexican 
Government— The Pleasant Surprise of Captain Grimes. 

I went over to Honolulu in 1845 ^^ supercargo of 
the " Don Quixote," with Captain Paty, and while there 
a partnership was proposed between him, his brother 
William and myself, under which the ownership of the 
vessel was to be transferred, one-half to me and one- 
fourth to each of the brothers ; but we could not agree 
upon her valuation. William Paty thought the vessel 
was worth $8000, which I thought was too high. Cap- 
tain Meek agreed with me, saying that, considering her 
age, $5000 or $6000 would be a good price for the bark. 
The negotiations, therefore, fell through, and my rela- 
tions with Captain Paty ceased, under the circumstan- 
ces much to my regret. 

Afterward, several merchants and firms at Hono- 
lulu, among them Stephen Reynolds, who had been 
the United States vice-consul, E. & H. Grimes, and 
Starkey, Janion & Co. (a heavy English house), made 
propositions to furnish me with a vessel to trade on the 
California coast, the business to be partly mine. The 



384 PURCHASING A VESSEL AND CARGO. 

offer of E. & H. Grimes was accepted. We purchased 
the " Euphemia," an Enq;^lish brig which had been em- 
ployed by Henry Skinner & Co. in the Chinese trade. 
Then came a difficulty with regard to the papers and 
flag of the vessel, inasmuch as the Grimes and myself 
were Americans. We had selected an Englishman by 
the name of Thomas Russom for captain, a very good 
man, who was then at Honolulu ; and to sail under the 
English flag we should have been obliged to have 
the papers made out in the captain's name ; but we did 
not think it advisable to entrust so much to one man 
not directly interested with us, however responsible and 
trustworthy he might be. In order to avoid the diffi- 
culty, Hiram Grimes, who had a good deal of influence 
with the premier, Mr. Wiley (an old Scotchman, who 
had lived in South America many years), succeeded in 
getting the vessel registered in his name, under the 
Hawaiian flag. 

We then purchased the cargo of the vessel, which 
occupied a month, selecting with care and judgment 
such articles as were suited to the California trade, 
picking here and there the best we could obtain. At 
the same time the Patys also purchased a cargo for the 
"Don Quixote." The "Euphemia," with her cargo, 
cost between $50,000 and $60,000, my share being 
$17,000 or $18,000. Having saved my salary for sev- 
eral years, and accumulated money by speculations 
with the whalers, etc., I was able to pay about half this 
amount into the concern, leaving the other payable in 



A WEALTHY LADY OF HONOLULU. 385 

six months, for which I gave my note to E. & H. Grimes 
(the first note I ever gave). In contracting with them 
it was stipulated that the business on this coast should 
be done in the name of Wilham H. Davis only, their 
names not appearing. 

My mother was living in Honolulu and was wealthy, 
owning a large number of cattle, which were good prop- 
erty, as they were always in demand by the ships of 
war, whalers and other vessels visiting the Islands. She 
offered me money to assist in carrying on the business, 
but I declined it. preferring to act within mv own re- 
sources ; and I really did not need it. 

These vessels both left Honolulu February 26, 
1846. A strong southeasterly gale sprang up, which 
was in their .favor, and in less than two weeks' time the 
bark anchored at Monterey. Our brig had occasion to 
touch at a lower coast port before calling at Monterey, 
and did not reach that place until the last day of March. 
The " Don Quixote " was then ready to leave for San 
Bias, she having been chartered to take Castillero as 
commissioner to represent California in the City of 
Mexico. 

Soon after we anchored. I went on board that 
vessel and was warmly greeted by Captain Paty and 
Eli South worth, they having feared that some misfor- 
tune had happened, on account of the long delay of thv, 
brig. I then went ashore and called on General 
Castro, comandante-general of the department. 

25 



386 A SALUTE IN HONOR OF THE MEXICAN FLAG. 

During this visit I ventured upon a little diplo- 
macy, in order to place myself on a good footing with 
the officials, as this was my first venture of any magni- 
tude on my own behalf. I noticed that the window and 
door-frames and woodwork about the headquarters were 
unpainted, and mentioned to the general that I had on 
board my vessel some paints and oils, and with his ap- 
proval I would send a few kegs ashore for his use. He 
said those materials were scarce and he should receive 
them with a great deal of pleasure. 

On this occasion I was accompanied by United 
States Consul Larkin. While we were there I was in- 
troduced to Mrs. General Castro, and we chatted for 
some time very pleasantly. I saw by the general's ex- 
pression, when she went into the next room for a few 
minutes, that he was proud of her. Larkin found an 
opportunity to communicate, enthusiastically, " Isn't 
she beautiful?" and I responded, with equal enthu- 
siasm, "Indeed, she is." 

On returning to my vessel I sent and borrowed 
two cannons from the bark, got them aboard, and fired 
a salute in honor of the Mexican flag, which was 
promptly returned by the comandante from the fort. 
Thus, my introduction to the port of Monterey as a 
merchant in my own behalf was happily accomplished, 
and everything made smooth for future trade. 

Then I called on the collector, Don Pablo de la 
Guerra. He was living with his sister, Mrs. Jimeno. 
He said at once that the other vessel had been there 



CUSTOM-HOUSE BROKERS. 387 

two or three weeks, and that my brig had only just got 
in ; as both had sailed the same day, he wanted to know 
how that was. I said to him, " Look at the brig. She 
is more Hke a box than anything else. She is no sailer," 
He responded that I was correct; that she was indeed 
like a box, and it was not surprising that she had made 
a long voyage. I sent to Don Pablo from my cargo a 
basket of champagne, and to Mrs. Jimeno some sweet 
potatoes and cocoanuts, which were regarded as lux- 
uries at Monterey. 

It was customary when a vessel came into port 
to enter, to give the management of the custom house 
business to a shore merchant, who acted as broker. He 
made the entry, assuming the responsibility of the 
transaction — paving the way, if any difficulties arose. 
Larkin, Hartnell, Spear and Spence sometimes acted 
in a similar capacity The merchant received a proper 
commission for the service. On this occasion I em- 
ployed Larkin to make the entry. 

The law required the collector and his officers to 
go on board any vessel arriving with dutiable goods 
and make a thorough examination. Captains or super- 
cargoes would invite merchants from on shore and other 
friends to accompany the officials. Quite a party as- 
sembled, the event being made one of entertainment. A 
handsome collation was provided of meats, fowls, jams, 
jellies, pies, cakes, fruits, champagne and other wines 
of which all would partake, and an enjoyable time 
be had. We spread a table, and received and enter- 



388 DUTIES PAYABLE IN NOTES. 

tained the guests as handsomely as any one could. 
Among those present were : Henry Melius, Captain 
Eliab Grimes, Don Jose Abrigo, Larkin, de la Guerra, 
the collector, and two or three of his officers, one of 
whom was Don Rafael Pintito, an attache of the customs 
service [adicana) for a great many years. 

The custom house inspector was a curious old 
Mexican who had lost his teeth, and his sentences were 
mumbled in a queer way ; but he was polite and gentle- 
manly withal, and while going through the formality of 
looking about the vessel to examine her, I accom- 
panied him. The main hatch was off, and I said that 
if he wished to go down into the hold, I would have a 
ladder brought for his accommodation, and that he 
should be assisted down. He replied that he was not 
very particular. I remarked that there were a good 
many scorpions among the cargo. These creatures had 
got in at the Islands, and in the warm latitude they had 
bred very fast. When I mentioned scorpions, he step- 
ped back, really frightened, and making up a ludicrous 
face, declared vehemently that he had no desire to go 
into the hold-^thoroughly alarmed at the idea. The 
duties on the cargo amounted to ten thousand dollars. 

The merchants, when they entered goods, used to 
pay about half the duties in cash, and give their notes 
for the remainder, payable in sixty or ninety days, the 
custom house allowing them this accommodation. Not 
having sufficient money to pay these duties — although 
Captain Grimes and other merchants offered to procure 






WOMEN AND CE^ILDREN BUYING MERCHANDISE. 389 

it for me, which offer I declined — a plan was adopted 
to realize more speedily upon the car<^o than could 
have been done on the vessel and selling there, as 
was common. Obtaining the use for a short time of a 
large room in the custom house, with ample space for 
my purpose, the crew brought the cargo ashore, and the 
ship's carpenter put up a table eighty feet long, in the 
room so secured, on which I sampled the goods for 
sale. William F, Swasey, who had recently come to 
the coast, was looking for employment, and I engaged 
him to assist me. 

The plan was an admirable success. Men. 
women and children gathered in crowds, finding it 
much more convenient than to qo aboard the vessel, 
where the goods could'nt have been seen to advantage. 
They were also attracted by the novelty of the arrange- 
ments. They bought in quantities to suit. Within 
a week I had taken some five thousand dollars in cash, 
on sales amounting to fifteen thousand dollars; so that 
I was able to pay half of the cash duties demanded, 
and had some money left. My notes went into the 
custom house for the remainder. 

The collector and his officers were always in debt 
to the merchants for goods. The notes they gave 
were sometimes turned in for duties, the customs officers 
arranging the matter with the government. The col- 
lector of course reported to the government all duties 
collected, this being its only source of revenue ; and if 
in need of money for government use, the governor 



390 DOUBTS REMOVED. 

would direct the collector to negotiate to the best ad- 
vantage with merchants what paper he had, at a dis- 
count. Or frequently the government owed mer- 
chants for supplies used by the troops, such as mus- 
kets, ammunition, shoes and other clothing, and would 
require money for the troops, who were regularly paid ' 
and used the notes in settlement with the mer- 
chants, and to obtain money to pay the troops. The 
merchants were glad to take notes {v.'hich had been 
given for duties), either in liquidation of their claims, 
or for cash loaned, as they would be paid at maturity* 
in hides and tallow, by the parties who signed them. 
Melius was at Monterey before I arrived, and he waited 
until I came, and secured in part liquidation of his firm's 
claim against the government most of the notes I gave 
the collector. 

On my arrival, Captain Eliab Grimes was at Con- 
sul Larkin's house. He greeted me gruffly, and said, 
" Well, Hiram has been playing the devil down there, 
buying a vessel and cargo for $50,000 or $60,000, and 
sending her up here ! " The captain, being the main 
man of the concern, naturally felt some doubt about his 
nephew and myself (who were young men) succeeding 
in this speculation. I told him I had paid about $9,- 
000 in cash on my interest, and was owing about as 
much more, to be paid in six months. " Well, do you 
expect to pay it ? " he asked, rather savagely. " I hope 
to do so," was my reply. Producing the well known 
liquor case, which he carried with him wherever he 



NATHAN SPEAR IN ILL HEALTH. 39 1 

went, we had a orlass or two together, and he asked for 
all the details of the venture in partnership with his 
nephew and himself. 

I narrated the transactions in full, at which he 
seemed to feel reassured. He had been greatly con- 
cerned about our buying the vessel and cargo. He 
was also pleased afterward, when I informed him of my 
success in the sale of the goods at the custom house, 
of which he had expressed doubt when I first men- 
tioned the plan to him — having thought it would fail ; 
and Melius was of the same opinion. The goods not 
disposed of were taken on board again, and we sailed 
for Santa Cruz. I made many sales there, taking my 
pay in lumber and hides and tallow, to be delivered at 
a future time. I then sent the vessel to Verba Buena, 
and came up by land, making sales at San Jose, Santa 
Clara and other places, by invoice, to the rancheros and 
merchants — doing well. Reaching Verba Buena about 
the 25th of April, I found that Spear had vacated his 
store and moved to Napa, on account of ill health. 
Hinckley was in town. Bob Ridley was keeping the 
Vioget house, with his family, and I lodged with him. 

The next morning I met Howard, who was here 
with the " Vandalia." and for a day or so was a guest 
on board his vessel, until my own arrived, while I sold 
to rancheros round the bay until I had no goods remain- 
ing. Josiah Belden assisted me in this work as one of 
my clerks. The vessel then went over to Saucelito to 
get in a supply of water. While she was there, Spear, 



392 A JOLLY nic;ht. 

who had come down from Napa, Hinckley and myself, 
went over to spend a night on board. We had a good 
supper, and a jolly time — talking over old matters, smok- 
ing, singing and drinking champagne nearly the whole 
night. Captain Russom was an admirable singer, and 
he entertained us with songs, and the whole company 
also sang. 

This was the 20th of May, 1846, a heavy south- 
east gale blowing, and during the evening the captain 
went on deck to order the second anchor dropped, for the 
greater security of the vessel. It rained hard all night. 

The next day I visited Captain Richardson. The 
day after, Captain and Mrs. Richardson, Miss Rich- 
ardson and Miss Estudillo came on board the brig by 
my invitation. Our steward and cook prepared a 
choice dinner, which the guests enjoyed. I invited the 
ladies to the salesroom and made them some presents. 
I remember having given Mrs. Richardson some white 
silk handkerchiefs and fancv Qroods, from the careo. 
Meeting her a few years ago she said she still had the 
handkerchiefs. 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 

The American Flag Hoisted at Monterey — The English Government Circumven- 
ted — A Welcome to "American Soil " — Incidents preceding the Flag-hoisting 
— Admiral Seymour Outwitted — Sloat's Hesitancy— Urged by Mervine to 
Act without Delay — Commodore Stockton arrives in the "Congress," to 
Relieve Commodore Sloat— The "Congress" Anchors in San Francisco 
Harbor — The Author and Mervine Cultivate an Acquaintance — A Favorable 
Impression of Commodore Stockton — A Grand Reception Tendered him on 
Shore — The Commodore shown around by a Mounted Escort — The Influential 
Native Californians Accept the Situation Gracefully — Revolt of the "Baser 
Sort," in the Southern Portion of the State — Captain Mervine of the "Savan- 
nah," then at Monterey, is sent under Orders to Suppress it — A Battle 
Ensues — Captain Mervine's Forces driven back to their Vessels. 

Shortly after, the "Euphemia" left Saucelito, bound 
south, and we took on board at a southern coast port 
an additional cargo of merchandise. About the last 
day of May we arrived at San Pedro, and sold there 
twenty-five thousand dollars' worth of goods. Thence 
we sailed to Santa Barbara, where additional sales were 
made, to the extent of eitrht or ten thousand dollars ; 
thence to Monterey, arriving in July, 1846. On round- 
ing Point Pinos we were surprised to see the United 
States vessels of war at anchor, and the Stars and 
Stripes floating from the staff over the town. 

On the voyage up, Captain Russoni. myself and 
the two mates, Lee and Colbath, and also the clerk, 
R. M. Sherman, who were New England men, had 
many little discussions about the probability of Mon- 
terey being taken by the English. Owing to the 



394 THE AMERICAN FLAG. 

rumors of war between the United States and Mexico, 
we were expecting it. The captain being an Eng- 
Hshman, we Americans teased him, and boasted that 
our country would certainly be the foremost. He des- 
canted upon the pluck and enterprise of his country- 
men, and declared that they would certainly plant their 
flag in Monterey before the Americans had a chance. 
As we rounded the Point and saw our flag floating 
serenely over the town, we called out exultantly, " There 
it is, Captain Russoni ! See the American flag flying ! " 
He was discomfited, but made the best of it, frankly 
saying that his countrymen were beaten. The " Euphe- 
mia" was the first vessel to enter Monterey after the 
American acquisition. 

Going ashore, on ascending the steps of the wharf, 
I was met by U. S. Consul Larkin, who introduced me 
to Commodore Sloat, standing by his side. The com- 
modore extended his hand, and said : " I am glad to 
make your acquaintance, my dear sir, and to welcome 
you to American soil ! " 

In the course of his conversation he said, " Thank 
God! we have got ahead of Seymour." He said that 
he had determined to take the country at all hazards, 
and he had done it. The commodore was an agile, 
nervous little man, and was extremely well satisfied 
with the exploit, his face being illumined with a perpetual 
smile of satisfaction. 

My vessel happened to have a variety of stores of 
which the vessels of the squadron were in need, and 



ADMIRAL SEYMOUR. 395 

these wants I supplied, visiting the purser of the flag- 
ship frequently in the transactions. 

There I made the acquaintance of Post-Captain 
Mervine, and saw him every day, the week I remained 
there ; sometimes visiting him in his cabin, by his 
invitation. He was portly, well proportioned, quick 
and energetic in his manner, and impressed me as a man 
of resolution and decision of character. He gave me 
a little account of matters prior to the fleet's arrival. 
He said the " Savannah" and " Cyane " were at Maz- 
atlan, oscillating between that port and San Bias, wait- 
ing for the news of the declaration of war, and the 
English ship " Collinwood," Admiral Seymour, was 
there at the same time. Captain Mervine said they 
were watching Seymour and he was watching them. 
If the " Savannah " ran from Mazatlan to San Bias, 
the " Collinwood " followed her ; or, if the " Collin- 
wood " ran from one place to another, the " Savannah" 
was after her. Commodore Sloat, while on shore, hav- 
ing received, unofficially, private information that war 
had been declared between the United States and Mex- 
ico, slipped away one night with his vessels and sailed 
for Monterey, making all speed possible, not knowing 
but they should find the " Collinwood " there before 
them. Arriving first, however, on July 4th, Commo- 
dore Sloat hesitated as to what he should do. 

On the night of the 6th of July, a council of war was 
called, at which were present the Commodore, Captain 
Mervine, Captain Dupont of the " Cyane," and other 



396 CAPTAIN MERVINE. 

officers of the squadron, to discuss the matter, and to set- 
tle upon a Hne of action. 

Captain Mervine declared to me that Sloat still 
seemed irresolute. At the council, the captain said : 
" You hesitate, Commodore Sloat, but delay is danger- 
ous ; the 'Collinwood' is right at our heels. You 
know when we approached this port we thought we 
might find her here before us and the English flag 
raised on shore, in which case we should have had to 
fight. It is more than your commission is worth to 
hesitate in this matter. Although you have no direct 
official information of the declaration of war between 
the two countries, the unofficial news is to the effect 
that war had been declared. If we don't hoist the 
American flag, the English will take possession of this 
capital ; so there is no time to be lost. It is our duty to 
ourselves and to the country to run up the flag at once." 

Captain Mervine remarked further, that he talked 
so emphatically at the council of war that his sugges- 
tions prevailed. The next morninp' the United States 
flag floated over the town. 

Mervine was outspoken and frank, unquestionably 
a better qualified officer than Sloat. He was impatient 
at the commodore's slowness and vacillation. It was 
owing to the captain's decision and right comprehension 
of the situation, in my opinion, that the flag was raised. 

Eight days thereafter, the " Collinwood" came into 
the bay. My vessel then lay at Santa Cruz, and we 
heard the salutes. James Alexander Forbes, British 



CAPTAIN MONTGOMERY. 397 

vice-consul at the time, was in Monterey shortly after 
the "Collinwood" arriv^ed. He learned from the offi- 
cers of the ship, as he informed me, that, as they 
rounded the Point, and the United States men-of-war 
were discovered, and the American flag came in sight, 
floating over the town, the British admiral stamped his 
foot in rage, and flung his hat upon the deck. His 
chagrin at the advantage which the Americans had 
gained over him in this matter caused these demon- 
strations. 

The American flag was flying in Yerba Buena 
when I reached there overland from Santa Cruz. The 
United States ship "Portsmouth," Captain Montgomery, 
was in port. I made the acquaintance of the captain, 
and breakfasted with him one morning, by his invita- 
tion, aboard the ship. He said, among other discussions 
regarding the situation, that he felt some anxiety 
about the relations of our government with England, 
in connection with the Oregon Question, or the 
boundary line dispute between the United States and 
British Columbia; he thought that any time we might 
learn that war had been declared between the two 
countries ; that the vessel was ready for action, al- 
though he was short of his full fighting complement, as 
his marines were ashore, on guard, under Captain Wat- 
son, yet he believed he could do good execution with 
his vessel should an enemy be encountered. 

While we were talking, it was reported to the cap- 
tain that a strange vessel was in sight, coming up the 



398 SLOOP OF WAR "PORTSMOUTH. 

bay ; whereupon he ran out on deck to sight her, and 
gave orders to have the men immediately beat to 
quarters. This was done — a pretty sight which inter- 
ested me very much. Every man stood at his post 
ready for action. It might have been an Enghsh war 
vessel approaching, and the captain thought it best to 
be prepared for hostilities. Soon discovered it to be a 
merchant vessel, we returned to the cabin. Washing- 
ton A. Bartlett, third-lieutenant on the " Portsmouth,'' 
afterward alcalde at Yerba Buena, told me this was an 
usual occurrence on board — beating the men to quarters 
and getting ready as a vessel came in sight. 

When my brig arrived, I took possession of 
Spear's vacant premises, and transferred the remainder 
of the cargo, opening a store for the sale of the goods. 
The vessel was then sent to Santa Cruz, to load with 
lumber for Honolulu. Leaving the store in charge of 
employees, I went by land to meet the vessel about 
the time the loading of cargo was completed, and there 
found that the captain, and Sherman, the clerk, were 
somewhat worried at my delay of a day or two, fearing 
I might have been murdered by Indians in crossing the 
Santa Cruz mountains. The brig being just ready, 
we took her over to Monterey, where I prepared her 
papers and accounts. 

At this time I found Commodore Stockton had 
arrived there in the " Congress," had relieved Commo- 
dore Sloat, and taken command of the forces on the 
Pacific Coast, Post-Captain Mervine had taken out 



COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON. 399 

some of the guns of the frigate "Savannah" and 
mounted them on the fort over-looking the bay. 
His men were drilling there, and were practicing in 
firing at water targets — throwing bombs, to see at 
what distance they would explode — all with reference 
to the possibility of war with England. He invited 
me to the fort once or twice to witness the practice, 
which was very interesting. 

The " Euphemia" was dispatched to Honolulu, 
with the cargo of lumber and some furs. Remittances 
were also sent by her in what were known as " Purser's 
Bills," which I took in exchange for supplies furnished 
the United States vessels, these bills being drawn by 
the pursers on the department in Washington, and 
countersigned by the commander. It was a conven- 
ient method of remittance, the bills being at a premium. 
I also sent $i,8oo in gold. Returned to Yerba Buena 
shortly after, when the United States flag-ship 
" Congress" came into the bay, with the commodore on 
board. 

When Commodore Stockton first arrived at 
Monterey with the " Congress," he sent for Captain 
Richardson to come from Saucelito to pilot the vessel. 
In August the "Congress" left Monterey for San 
Pedro. From there Stockton went to Los Antjeles to 
confirm and more fully establish the possession of the 
country by the United States, to make himself known 
to the people, to begin friendly relations with them, as 
their commander-in-chief, to make the acquaintance of 



400 COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON. 

the wealthy rancheros and to endeavor to impress upon 
them that he was their friend. 

The "Congress" soon returned to Monterey, and 
came from there to Yerba Buena, Captain Richardson, 
pilot ; who, while on the vessel, gave the commodore 
valuable information about the country and the people. 
These two men became great friends. 

Upon the arrival of the "Congress," several of the 
citizens of Yerba Buena called on Commodore Stockton 
aboard the vessel to pay their respects, among whom I 
remember were Spear, Captain Grimes, Howard and 
Leidesdorff— perhaps seven or eight in all, includ- 
ing myself. We were handsomely received by the 
commodore and were favorably struck with his appear- 
ance, which was that of a gentleman and thorough 
commander. He was fine-looking, of dark complexion ; 
frank and off-hand in manners and conversation ; 
active and energetic. There was nothing weak or ef- 
feminate about him. He at once impressed us as a 
strong man and of decided ability. 

We remained about half an hour, the commodore 
making us feel at home, inquiring individually of the 
pioneers about their first coming to the country, their 
experience here, etc., so that we were soon well ac- 
quainted with him. 

A few days afterward, upon the first landing of 
the commodore, a celebration was held, which was a 
grand success. Extensive preparations had been made. 
Notice having been sent into the surrounding coun- 
try, the people came to town in great numbers. 



COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON. 4OI 

Colonel Wm. H. Russell made a speech, welcom- 
ing the commodore, as he landed from his barge, which 
came close to shore (the tide being high) at about 
where Clay street is now, between Montgomery and 
Sansome. Russell spoke in bombastic, spread-eagle 
style, saying, " I meet and welcome you on the shore" 
— giving much emphasis to the consonants. 

A procession was formed, which marched from 
the corner of Sacramento and Montgomery streets to 
Washington street, up Washington to Kearney, to Clay, 
to Dupont, along Dupont to Washington, thence down 
the hill to Montgomery again. These streets, with the 
exception of Kearney, had been named by Bartlett. 
Some blocks were enclosed by fences — the three 
bounded by Montgomery and Kearney streets, east 
and west, and by Jackson and Sacramento, north and 
south — these blocks being identical with those between 
these streets to-day ; also a portion of the block be- 
tween Sacramento and California streets, the southeast 
corner of that block being separately enclosed (a 50- 
vara lot by itself), parties owning in that block having 
built cross-fences. On reaching Montgomery street, 
those who had formed the procession gathered about a 
platform which had been erected near where Clay now 
intersects Montgomery street. The commodore was 
invited to make a speech, which he did in the most en- 
thusiastic manner, and quite at length, and referred 
facetiously to Russell's eloquent speech of welcome to 
California. 

26 



402 COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON. 

At that time the news had been received of the 
revolt of some of the CaHfornians, and the re-capture 
by them of points which the Americans had taken pos- 
session of; and Stockton, in his address, referred to this, 
saying he was there to protect and defend the country, 
to fight her battles, if need be, and to establish and 
maintain her interests. 

Guerrero, the Sanchez Brothers, Vasquez, and all 
the rancheros in the immediate vicinity, had each 
sent in a number of horses for the procession — the 
choicest from xX'i^xx caponeras, the largest and most hand- 
some, numbering one hundred or more. After the 
speaking was over, an escort of horsemen rode with the 
commodore to the Presidio, which he desired to visit ; 
thence across to the Mission Dolores, getting back to 
Yerba Buena near sunset, when we dispersed. 

We rode very rapidly, Stockton himself being a 
fine horseman. On our return the horses were covered 
with foam. 

The procession was the first that ever took 
place in California in a civil celebration. It attracted 
larofe numbers of women and children from all the 
neighborhood. It was a demonstration of welcome, not 
only by Americans proper, but by those of all na- 
tionalities who had made this new country their home ; 
and (with some exceptions) by the CaHfornians also, 
who, although their government was now to be super- 
seded by that of strangers, nevertheless accepted the 
situation gracefully. On this occasion most of the Cali- 



COMMODORE K. I". STOCKTON. 4O3 

fornians joined in the celebration, entering into it with 
spirit, and contributing to its success. F"or that early 
day, it was an imposing display and very creditable to 
the people. 

The ovation was unexpected by Commodore 
Stockton, and much appreciated, since it showed the 
good feeling of the masses of the people toward the 
American government and for him as its represent- 
ative, and that the Californians regarded him as a friend 
rather than an enemy. 

When the news was received, shortly after the 
"Congress" arrived, that the Californians at Los An- 
geles, Santa Barbara and other points in the south had 
revolted, and replaced the Mexican flag, Stockton dis- 
patched orders to Monterey for Captain Mervine to 
proceed with the " Savannah " to San Pedro, to protect 
American interests at Los Angeles. Mervine, on 
reaching San Pedro, landed his marines and most of 
his crew, with some artillery. Taking command, he 
moved towards Los Angfeles. He had some animals with 
which to transport his guns. To prepare for anticipated 
conflicts with the Californians, it was the custom for 
the commanders and officers of the government vessels, 
while lying at the different ports, to drill the crews for 
army service. The officers themselves possessed more 
or less military knowledge, but they familiarized them- 
selves still further with that branch of the service. In 
the various expeditions inland, a portion of the naval 
force on the coast was utilized as infantry men, and, 



404 COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON. 

occasionally, as cavalry men, according to circumstances. 
As Mervine proceeded, the Californians began to sur- 
round the little army and disturb it with threatened at- 
tacks. When the rancho of Manuel Dominofues was 
reached, about half way between the port and Los An- 
geles, a battle ensued, lasting several hours, in which 
Mervine displayed great daring in leading his men for- 
ward, but without avail ; it resulted in the defeat of the 
Americans, who retreated to San Pedro, and boarded 
their vessel. Several of the sailors and marines were 
killed in the engagement. 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

Commodore Stockton's Fleet —Fremont Joins the Commodore with his Troops — 
A Commendation of Captain Montgomery — His Successor a Different Sort 
of Man — Melancholy Fate of Captain Montgomery's Two Sons — The " Eu- 
phemia " Arrives from Honohdu with a Large and Varied Cargo of Goods — 
Rum in Demand — ^A Fitting Suitable for Army and Navy Uses — Lar- 
kin Made Prisoner — Mrs. Larkin Despondent in Consequence — Bartlett 
and Pickett Arrested — Still a Demand for Rum and Other Liquors — A 
Christmas Dinner Eaten in Bunks^Money Plenty — A Man of Self Impor- 
tance — An Anecdote Concerning Him — Fremont's Battalion Marches South — 
Why the Author was Sent for by Fremont — The General is in Want of Sup- 
plies — They are Furnished by the Author. 

The news of Mervine 's defeat reaching Commo- 
dore Stockton, he sent orders to the captain to remain 
at San Pedro, In the meantime he actively organized 
a force to proceed south. The intelHgence of this re- 
buff caused him to forward operations vigorously, his 
aim being to secure a sufficient force to make thorough 
work in overcoming the refractory Californians and 
establishing the American supremacy. 

Small arms of all kinds were very scarce in the 
country, and Stockton was desirous of collecting all he 
could for his [)roposed expedition. One morning a 
midshipman from the "Congress" presented the com- 
modore's compliments, and said the Commodore de- 
sired me to purchase for him a quantity of small arms, 
pistols, rifles, etc. I sent out several of my clerks to 
the little shops, bar-rooms, and all the places in Verba 
Buena where it seemed probable any arms could be 



406 COLONEL JOHN C. FREMONT. 

found, and collected a considerable number, many of 
which were obtained from the Mormons, who had re- 
cently arrived. The arms were turned over to Commo- 
dore Stockton, who paid for them, and also thanked 
me for the service. 

About the latter part of October, 1846, the commo- 
dore sailed with the "Congress" for San Diego. The 
" Portsmouth," Captain Montgomery, was ordered to 
proceed there also, and left some time subsequent. 
These vessels, on reaching that point, were joined by 
the "Savannah," Captain Mervine, the " Cyane," Cap- 
tain Dupont, and the sloop of war " Dale," The sloop 
of war "Warren," Captain Hull, remained at Yerba 
Buena. 

Fremont's battalion embarked at Yerba Buena on 
the "Cyane," intending to land at San Pedro, but when 
out at sea a few days the vessel was spoken by the 
" Vandalia," coming up the coast, and he was informed 
that no horses could be procured at San Pedro, where- 
upon Fremont's vessel put in at Monterey, and he dis- 
embarked his troops. They proceeded by land south- 
ward, it being Stockton's design that they should join 
Mervine. At Monterey Fremont's force was increased 
by immigrants who had recently arrived in the country, 
who augmented his number to about 400. 

Captain Montgomery was highly regarded by the 
people, and became a great favorite with all classes, 
both American and foreign, and also with the Cali- 
fornians. He was about fifty years of age, with a pleas- 



MONTGOMERY IX COMMAND AT VERBA RUENA. 407 

ant, intelligent face ; a man of considerable ability, 
officer-like in appearance, and in demeanor polite to all ; 
kind and conciliatory in his intercourse with the people, 
winning their esteem and affection. He was much 
liked by his officers, who spoke of him as one of the 
best commanders in the service. During the six or 
seven months that he remained at Yerba Buena, 
he never had the slightest trouble with any one. Cap- 
tain Hull, who succeeded him in command of the dis- 
trict, on the contrary, was frequently in hot water ; get- 
ting into various difficulties; inclined to be over-partic- 
ular and fussy. Although a good officer, attending 
strictly to his duties, he showed an impatient disposition, 
noticing^ trifling affairs and matters ; whereas Mont- 
gomery would not have taken notice of them. A 
man of small mind, Hull was unpopular with the 
people, but at the same time had his friends, among 
them Captain Grimes. 

Two sons of Captain Montgomery came out in the 
" Portsmouth" with him, aged respectively twenty-one 
and seventeen years. Toward the latter part of No- 
vember, 1846, these two young men were sent by their 
father, in one of the'* Portsmouth's" boats, accompanied 
by a crew of eight sailors and a boatswain, with a con- 
siderable amount of money to pay the troops — to Sut- 
ter's Fort, on the Sacramento. They were never heard 
of after their departure, and no trace of them or ot the 
boat was ever found, nor any clue as to their fate. It 
is presumed that the boat capsized off Angel Island, 



4o8 A boat's crew lost in the bay. 

in crossing the bay, and it and the occupants were swept 
out to sea. The winter commenced early that year ; 
heavy southeast winds and rains prevailed, and it was 
stormy when the boat left. A thorou^^h search was 
made and the whole country notified of the loss, but 
with no result. The sad disaster was a great blow to 
Captain Montgomery, and weighed very heavily upon 
him. 

When Captain Montgomery and the people of 
Yerba Buena became aware that the boat had failed to 
reach Sacramento, they at once concluded that some 
disaster must have happened. The first impression on 
the captain's mind and that of others, was that the 
two young men might have been murdered by the 
sailors in the boat for the sake of the money ; who had 
then seized it and swamped the boat, and gone into the 
interior. That idea prevailed for some time, but after 
wide information had been given of the disappearance, 
and every effort made to get some intelligence, as none 
of the sailors were ever seen by anyone on shore, and 
they could not have stayed in the country nor have gone 
out of it without the fact being known, this belief 
gave way to the more plausible supposition that the 
boat was swamped and carried out to sea. 

About the middle of November my brig arrived 
at Yerba Buena from Honolulu with a splendid cargo, 
consisting largely of liquors, and a good assortment of 
miscellaneous goods well adapted to the market. It 
was one of the first cargoes, perhaps the very first, that 



SAN FRANCISCO MADE A TORT OF ENTRY. 4O9 

paid duties in San Francisco, under the American gov- 
ernment. 

When the vessel left for Honolulu in August, I 
ordered her to come back to Verba Buena, being con- 
vinced, as the country had passed into our possession, this 
would be a port of entry by the time she got back ; 
foreseeing that San Francisco was to be the commercial 
mart, and that Monterey would cease to be the head- 
quarters for shipping. 

The liquor was mostly New England rum, ex- 
ported from Boston to the Islands. Having plenty of 
cash on hand, I at once paid the duties on the goods, 
which were thirty per cent, on all articles of the in- 
voice cost, amounting to $5000 or $6000. The law re- 
quired the duties to be paid as soon as goods were 
entered. 

Captain William A. Richardson, of Saucelito, was 
appointed the first Collector of the Port by Commo- 
dore Stockton, in recog'nition of his services as pilot 
while on the " Congress," 

In addition to other useful information given to 
the commodore by Richardson, after the revolt of the 
Californians had become known, he also explained 
to Stockton that the disturbance did not commence 
with the wealthier and better class of rancheros, but 
with officials and ex-officials who were desirous of re- 
maining in power, and that they had stirred up the 
floating or irresponsible class, who had little or nothing 
to lose, in opposition to the new government. 



41 THE SEAT OF WAR. 

My New England rum cost in Honolulu $i.oo per 
gallon ; the duty of thirty cents made it $1.30. Liquors 
at that time had become very scarce, and on the arrival 
of the vessel a great demand began for it. I sold it speed- 
ily at from $3.00 to $4,00 per gallon ; could hardly land 
it fast enough to supply the want. Going a short dis- 
tance from my store, I would be hailed by one person 
or another, " Got any more of that New England rum ? 
I want a cask of it." 

Before returning to my store, I would have seven or 
eight orders in my head to put down in the order-book. 
The whole invoice was disposed of at a splendid profit, 
most of it having been delivered from the vessel. 

From the first trip of the " Euphemia," business 
had been very prosperous. The last success in my 
transactions brought me up in wealth, influence and 
commercial importance, to a level with Melius & 
Howard, whose establishment to that time had been 
cpnsidered the leading one. 

Soon after the brig's arrival, I commenced prepar- 
ing her for a trip south, to be near the seat of war. 
Landing some of the goods she recently brought from 
Honolulu, I put on board goods from the store, arranging 
the cargo especially to supply the wants of the army and 
navy, and not with reference to selling to rancheros. 
I had tea, coffee, sugar, clothing, boots and shoes, as- 
sorted liquors, foreign wines of the best quality, ale 
and porter, flour and other articles, which I knew would 
be in demand by the squadron and the military forces. 



CAPTURES BY INSURGENT CALTFORNIANS. 4II 

We left the beginning of December, and proceeded to 
Monterey, having on board Mrs. Thomas O, Larkin, 
with some of her children. 

Larkin, -some time before, had been captured by the 
Californians at Salinas, while journeying from Monterey 
to Verba Buena. Having dealt with them largely, and 
always having treated them kindly, he naturally thought 
that the Californians would not molest him, but that he 
would be allowed to pass through the lines. He 
was mistaken. They thought it important to seize 
the former United States official. He was well treated, 
although there was one Californian, Joaquin de la Torre, 
who was inclined to be ugly, and showed a disposition 
to harm Larkin. Whereupon, Don Manuel Castro put 
an immediate stop to any such proceedings. Castro 
ordered a guard of ten men placed over Larkin for his 
protection. This man de la Torre was considered, 
among his countrymen, as a person of low instinct. 

Mrs. Larkin was much troubled about her husband's 
imprisonment, and despondent on the trip to Monterey, 
which occupied a day and a night. I did my best to 
cheer her. saying, that her husband, having been ac- 
quainted with the Californians for so many years, was en- 
tirely safe. Nevertheless, she continued dispirited, and 
evidently felt an.xious. 

About this time, Bartlett, then alcalde, went into 
the country for some cattle, and while attending to the 
business, he also was arrested and made prisoner by 
the Californians. Another occurrence took place, C. E. 



412 DISBURSEMENTS BY NAVY PURSERS. 

Pickett had uttered some remark offensive to Captain 
Hull, and on its coming to his ears, he had Pickett ar- 
rested, and ordered him to remain on my premises as 
a prisoner of war ; saying to him, that if he went away 
from my store he would have him imprisoned on board 
the "Warren" in close quarters. Pickett was very in- 
dignant, but thought it prudent'to comply. 

At Monterey I delivered ten casks of the rum, and 
also sold largely of other goods, nearly all the sales be- 
ing for cash. 

We proceeded thence to Santa Barbara, where I 
sold to Noriega, as before stated, and also sold to 
others. 

On our way there from Monterey, on Christmas 
Day, 1846, we were off San Luis Obispo in a tremen- 
dous gale of wind from the southeast, with a boister- 
ous sea. My excellent cook and steward, who 
still remained with me, had prepared a choice dinner, 
but the sea prevented our sitting at table, and we were 
compelled to partake of the turkey and other viands in 
the bunks. 

Money circulated freely at the points where the 
United States vessels of war visited, as disbursements 
were made at all these places, and the contents of the 
pursers' strong boxes became much diminished ; those 
who had anything to sell reaping the advantage. 

The fitting out of the battalion by Commodore 
Stockton, before he left for the south, required a large 
expenditure on the part of the naval officers. The pur- 



FREMONT S BATTALION AT SANTA BARBARA, 4I3 

sers could replenish their exchequers, however, by the 
issue of their bills drawn upon the government at Wash- 
ington, there being plenty of money in the hands of the 
merchants. 

While I was at Captain Noriega's house in Santa 
Barbara, negotiating with him, there came to the house 
Major Snyder, Major Reading, and King, the commis- 
sary, all of whom I knew. They said, Colonel Fre- 
mont desired to see me at his camp, about a mile from 
town, I told them I would call on the colonel as soon 
as I had finished my business with Captain Noriega. 
They replied that the colonel wished me to go without 
delay. Whereupon, I complied (it being war time) 
somewhat against my will. I surmised the colonel 
wished to obtain supplies, and while I wanted to 
assist the government, and to do everything I could to- 
ward making the men under P remont comfortable, at 
the same time I did not care to become his creditor. 

My companions to the camp gave an account of 
the condition of the men composing the battalion, say- 
ing, that their necessities were very great, and that they 
were in next to a starvino condition, being without 
flour, sugar, tea or coffee ; beef supplies being all they 
could procure ; and that many of them were without 
shoes or hats. On reaching headquarters, I noticed 
that many of the m(Mi were ragged and dilapidated. 

This battalion had been collected by Stockton be- 
fore he left Yerba Buena. He caused it to be widely 
known that a battalion would be formed, and called for 



414 ONE OF THE FOUR HUNDRED. ^^M 

volunteers, and sent officers into the country in every 
direction to obtain recruits ; and about four hundred 
were collected at Verba Buena, consisting mainly of 
Americans, with a few English, Irish, Scotch, German, 
and of other nationalities. Some of them were rather 
rough, but many among them were intelligent men — 
Bryant, afterward alcalde of San Francisco, also Wil- 
liam H. Russell, a big man from Kentucky, who came 
to Verba Buena in 1846 across the plains. He was 
good-natured, but self-esteem was a great weakness in 
his composition. Sometimes this vanity was carried to 
a ridiculous extent in the telling of yarns. His friends 
laughed at his assumption of superiority, and made 
jokes at his expense. Often when they were ridiculing 
him with fictitious praises of his attainments, and as- 
sumed a deference to his authority, he thought they 
were in earnest and that they were rendering tribute to 
his importance. He therefore never took offence at 
anything they said. I knew him very well ; he was 
generally liked, and had no enemies. 

The following anecdote in regard to him was fre- 
quently told : In coming to California overland, while 
camping at night, the owls were sometimes heard in the 
distance, calling out in their peculiar, deep tones, sound- 
ing not unlike the human voice. One evening after 
the colonel's party had camped, he was perambulating 
outside, and, hearing the owls, fancied they were ad- 
dressing him, with, " Who comes there ? " He promptly 
responded in sonorous tones, " Colonel William H.Rus- 



A PERILOUS MARCH. 415 

sell, of Kentucky — a bosom friend of Henry Clay." 
This little performance was afterward a source of ban- 
tering among his friends. 

Fremont was placed in command of the battalion 
by Stockton, and he marched with it southward. The 
start was made in the winter. The weather being very 
severe, many hardships were suffered by the troops 
on the march, and when they arrived at Santa Barbara 
a considerable number of them were in weak condition. 
The arms I had collected for Stockton were put into the 
hands of these men, a good many of whom I knew — 
probably one hundred to one hundred and fifty out of 
the four hundred. Some of them told me that while 
crossing the Santa Ynez mountains in the niq^ht, PVe- 
mont showed considerable nerve in leading his men, the 
road being very steep and a tremendous storm raging. 

On reaching Fremont's tent I found him walking to 
and fro in front of it. After salutations, he said he had 
sent to see what I could do towards furnishing supplies 
for his troops, who were greatly in need, beef being 
about the only food in camp. I told him I would be 
happy to supply the battalion with Hour, tea, coffee, 
sugar and clothing. He said that I could see the quar- 
termaster and commissary and arrange with them about 
the quantities, etc. ; that there was no money in the 
camp at that time, but that I would surely be paid ; that 
they would doubtless capture Los Angeles within six 
weeks, and I could depend on getting my money then, 



4l6 ..UPPLIES FURNISHED TO THE BATTALION. 

and he pledged his word he would pay for the supplies 
V. ithin that time. 

Major Snyder was quartermaster and King was the 
commissary. After consulting with them as to what 
they wanted, and they had given me acknowledgements 
of indebtedness amounting to about $6000, the goods 
from the vessel were landed next day. Concluding my 
business at Santa Barbara, I proceeded to San Diego. 



CHAPTER L. 

Stockton Becomes Impatient -it Fremont's Delay — Forms a .Military Camp at Old 
San Diego — The Military Musicians Entertain the California Ladies at 
Dances — The Sailors and Marines are Drilled for Battle— Cicneral Kearney 
Arrives near San Diego — Sufferings of Kearney's Men — Kearney's I'liick — It 
Proves to be Ill-Advised— Me is Attacked by the Californians and Worsted — 
Accomi)lishments of Don Andres I'ico as a Military Ofiicer — A Hazardous 
Mission Successfully Accomplished by Lieutenant Beale— Stockton Sends Rein- 
forcements to Kearney, who is l)rought in, with his Wounded, to San Diego — 
Stockton Prepares for a Battle — A Conflict of Authority— March of the Col- 
umn — The Californians Encountered in Force — Attacks and Repulses of the 
Enemy —The Killed and Wounded — Account of the Battle. 

There was an understanding between Stockton 
and Fremont, as part of the former's plan, that Fremont 
should approach Los Angeles, and halt at a point not 
far from there at a specified time, and send word to 
Stockton at San Diego of that fact, when Stockton 
would advance from the south, and thus inclose the 
Californians between the two forces. 

Stockton waited at San Diego for that intelligence 
from Fremont, which, however, did not arrive. Hav- 
ing become impatient at the long and mysterious de- 
lay, Stockton decided to move on Los Angeles without 
tarrying further for Fremont. 

While waiting, Stockton had not been idle. On 
the arrival of the fleet at San Diego, he landed his sail- 
ors from the different vessels, and moved up to the 
presidio, or old town of San Diego. By invitation of 
Bandini, he took possession of a portion of his residence 

27 



4l8 THE OLD PRESIDIO OF SAN DIEGO. 

and made it the military headquarters. His sailors 
were encamped at that place, and the whole presidio 
was turned into a military camp. The commodore had 
also the band from the "Congress " quartered at the 
mansion. 

The commodore was accustomed to have the band 
play during the dinner hour, and to invite the Bandini 
family and ladies of San Diego to dine with him and 
to listen to the excellent music, which invitations they 
were pleased to avail themselves of, and afterwards 
spoke of these occasions with enthusiasm. The ladies 
also praised the commodore and his officers, and evi- 
dently appreciated the courtesy and attention. 

Don Bandini had in his dwelling a very large hall, 
where he gave dancing parties during the commodore's 
stay in San Diego, in which he and his officers and the 
best families of the town participated, the band of the 
squadron furnishing the music. Bandini himself was a 
musician, and was noted as a dancer. He understood 
fully how to manage an entertainment of the kind, with 
his charming wife. These gatherings were highly en- 
joyed by all who were present. 

He owned the Guadalupe rancho in Lower Califor- 
nia, comprising eleven leagues of land, with 4,000 or 
5,000 head of cattle, 2,000 horses, and numerous sheep. 
In Los Angeles county he owned the Jurupa rancho, 
with 4,000 or 5,000 head of cattle and 2,000 or 3,000 
horses. He had another rancho a few leagues below 
the boundary line between the United States and Mex- 



GEN L KEARNEY AT WARNERS RANCH. 419 

ico, called Tecate. He was a well-educated man, and 
represented the department of California in the city of 
Mexico for some time. 

Stockton's sailors were drilled in military tactics at 
the presidio of San Diego, and practiced in various 
army evolutions as soldiers — infantry, artillery-men and 
cavalry — in preparation for the coming campaign. The 
commodore wanted to do his work thoroughly, and 
make sure of conquering. 

The Californians had risen quite generally through 
that part of the country. Stockton's preparations were 
extensive, and his organization complete and effective. 
The necessity was urgent of at once bringing the 
whole department into subjection to the new order of 
affairs. Meanwhile Santiaguito Arguello, Don Miguel 
de Pedrorenaand Hensley were actively recruiting, and 
gathering horses, for Stockton's command. 

While these preparations were going forward, 
news was received of General Kearney's arrival at or 
near Warner's rancho, in San Diego county, from New 
Mexico, to take the position of commander-in-chief of 
the United States forces in California. The informa- 
tion was brought by Captain Snook, who has been 
mentioned in connection with Commodore Jones' tak- 
ing possession of Monterey, in 1842. He had given 
up sea voyaging and bought a rancho in San Diego 
county in the vicinity of San Pasqual. On getting this 
intelligence. Lieutenant Beale was sent out by the com- 
modore to meet Kearnev and oruide him to San Dieofo. 



420 



LIEUTENANT BEALE. 



On reaching- San Pasqual, at which place Kearney 
had then arrived, Beale found that the general had 
from 1 20 to 130 men with him, all suffering severely 
from cold and lack of food. The winter was an unusu- 
ally severe one, snow and frost prevailing, which was 
very seldom known in that latitude, and the men had 
experienced many hardships on the way from New 
Mexico to this point. They had no horses, only mules. 
Lieutenant Beale informed General Kearney that he 
had been sent by the commodore as a guide, and that 
it would be advisable to avoid meeting Don Andres 
Pico and his force of cavalry, consisting of about 90 
men, who were then in the vicinity of San Diego, hav- 
ing been dispatched from the main body of Californians 
near Los Angeles for the purpose of watching Stock- 
ton's movements and preparations, and communicating 
information of the same to headquarters. Commodore 
Stockton, knowing of Pico's presence in the neighbor- 
hood, and that he had a well-mounted force, in fine 
condition, thought it best for Kearney's troops not to 
meet them, probably surmising that the latter were not 
in very good fighting condition, after their long march 
during the cold weather ; or, probably, he had been in- 
formed of this by Captain Snook. Upon Lieutenant 
Beale's communicating Commodore Stockton's views to 
Kearney, the latter promptly responded, "No, sir; I 
will go and fight them," and declined to act upon the 
suggestion of the commodore. 



THE BATTLE OF SAN PASQUAL. 42 1 

Beale had observed the starved appearance of the 
men and their bad circumstances generally. He inti- 
mated to Kearney that as they were worn out with their 
recent march and had not found time to recruit, they 
were hardly in a fit condition to meet the Californians, 
who were numerous, as well as brave, and not to be de- 
spised as enemies. He also represented that the 
mules would be no match for the horses in a battle, even 
if in the best condition. Kearney declined to be influ- 
enced by the argument, being determined to have a 
fight. He was saved the necessity of moving to meet 
the Californians, however, for the latter having learned 
of Kearney's force at San Pasqual, shortly appeared 
there, and, led by Don Andres Pico, made an attack 
about the 6th of December. 

When the Californians observed the appearance of 
Kearney's men, and how they were mounted, they re- 
marked to each other, ''Aqiii bamos hacer matanzar 
(" Here we are going to have a slaughter.") They were 
mounted on fresh horses, and were armed with sharp- 
pointed lances and with pistols, in the use of which weap- 
ons they were very expert. A furious charge was made 
upon Kearney's force, whereupon all the mules ran away 
as fast as their legs would convey them, pursued by the 
Californians. who used their lances with great effect, kill- 
ing about twenty-five of Kearney's men and wounding 
a large number of the remainder (nearly all of them in 
the back, including General Kearney), who were all 
in the predicament of being unable to control the half- 



422 DON ANDRES PICO. 

Starved mules which they rode at the time of the stam- 
pede. The general, however, managed to rally his men 
and the mules, and, taking a position, held it against the 
attacking forces, who were not able to dislodge him. The 
Californians withdrawing from the immediate scene of 
action, Kearney buried his dead, while expecting that at 
any moment the enemy would renew the fight. 

In this conflict Beale was slightly wounded in the 
head. At his suggestion Kearney moved his force to 
the top of Escondido mountain, which lay in the direc- 
tion of San Diego, marching in solid form, so as to be 
able the better to resist any attack that might be made, 
the mountain offering advantages for defence which 
could not be procured below. While there encamped 
they were surrounded and besieged by Pico and his 
troops, who made another attack, but without success. 

In the battle just described, Don Andres Pico, who 
was brave and honorable, displayed so much courage 
and coolness as to excite the admiration of the Ameri- 
cans, He never did an act beneath the dignity of an 
officer or contrary to the rules of war, and was humane 
and generous. If he saw one of the enemy wounded, 
he instantly called upon his men to spare the life of the 
wounded soldier. Kind and hospitable, Pico was held 
in great esteem by the Americans who knew him. 

While Kearney was thus besieged, Lieutenant Beale 
volunteered to make his way through the enemy's lines 
and communicate to Stockton the intelligence of the 
general's position and circumstances. It was an act of 



STOCKTONS CAMPAIGN. 423 

great daring ; but by traveling in the night only, and 
part of the time crawling on his hands and knees, to 
avoid discovery, he finally reached San Diego, nearly 
dead from exhaustion, his hands and limbs badly scored. 

When he came into San Diego he was little more 
than a skeleton ; his friends hardly knew him. He gave 
an account of what had transpired and of the condition 
of Kearney's force. As soon as his mind was relieved 
of the message he became utterly prostrated from the 
sufferings he had undergone, and shortly after was delir- 
ious. It was some time before he recovered. Stockton 
and the other officers of the squadron showed him every 
attention. 

A force of two hundred men, with some light ar- 
tillery, was immediately sent to rescue Kearney's troops 
and escort them to San Diego, also conveyances for the 
wounded, with full supplies of provisions. The Cali- 
fornians moved back as this force approached, not ven- 
turing further demonstrations. The troops, with the 
wounded, were brought to San Diego. 

Stockton continued his preparations on an exten- 
sive scale for the conflict. He delayed a further move- 
ment in order to allow the recovery of the wounded 
men. Kearney demanded of Stockton the position of 
commander-in-chief of the territory, by virtue ot an 
appointment to that place by the President. The navy 
officer declined to yield the command, claiming that the 
men whom he had organized and drilled for the con- 
flict belonged to the United States ships which he 



424 THE ARMY READY TO MARCH. 

commanded ; that he had spent his time and labor in 
making preparations ; had transformed his sailors into 
soldiers ; had exercised and trained them in military 
tactics ; that he had gathered horses and men, had or- 
ganized a force of cavalry, and had made all his ar- 
rangements to conquer the Californians and show them 
that the country was now a part of the United States. 
He claimed the honor of accomplishing this, and de- 
clined to be superseded bv another. 

There was more or less controversy about their re- 
spective ranks, which was not definitely settled. 

Meanwhile, Stockton continued his preparations. 
Kearney having made his demand and Stockton hav- 
ing refused to comply, the former could do nothing but 
quietly submit. When the expedition was ready to 
start, he volunteered to join with such of his dragoons 
as were able to do service, about eighty in all, which 
offer was accepted by Stockton, Kearney simply com- 
manding his own men under the commodore's orders. 
When they moved forward, about the first of January, 
1847, Stockton had between seven hundred and eight 
hundred men, including Kearney's force. 

During the march, and afterward, the natives in 
Stockton's army were mounted as cavalrymen, and 
were assigned to picket duty, a very responsible service 
— which showed the confidence the commodore placed 
in them. They were specially adapted for this duty, 
being genuine horsemen, and knowing the country 
thoroughly. They were, moreover, faithful and trust- 
worthy. 



THE BATTLE OF SAX GABRIEL. 425 

Arrivino^ at the river San Gabriel, the Californians 
were found in force on the opposite side, in an advan- 
tageous position. The river was swollen from previous 
heavy rains. On the eig"hth, the two armies commenced 
an artillery fight, in which Stockton exhibited great 
skill, coolness and bravery. During the engagement 
one of the artillery-men was killed by a shot from the 
enemy, while firing his gun. Stockton, who was near 
bv, immediatelv took charofe of the ofun, and so accurate 
was his aim that he did marked execution in the 
enemy's ranks. In the navy the commodore was 
known as a practical artillerist, and afterward was the 
inventor of a powerful piece of ordnance. Under 
cover of the artillery fire, his force crossed the river, 
the movement being accomplished with considerable 
difficulty, and was followed by the artillery. 

The fighting continued on that day and the next, 
the Californians making several charges upon the 
United States troops. The commodore had formed 
his army into a hollow square, which the enemy at- 
tacked on e\ery side simultaneously ; but they were 
unable to penetrate it, and were repulsed each time. 
The Californians were all mounted, there being no in- 
fantry in their army. They relied upon their horse- 
manship and their lances to break Stockton's lines; but 
he knew their mode of attack and was prepared for it. 
The line of troops in front kneeled down and received 
the charge of the cavalry at the point of the bayonet, 
those in the rear thus being enabled to fire over the 
heads of those in the front rank. 



426 TACTICS OF THE CALIFORNIANS. 

Twenty-five or thirty of the CaHfornians were 
killed, and a great many wounded; while Stockton's 
loss did not exceed ten killed, with a few wounded. 

Doubtless the actual number of the CaHfornians 
killed will never be known, they having concealed their 
loss, not being willing to make a statement in regard 
thereto. Many more of the CaHfornians would have 
been killed and wounded during their charges upon 
Stockton's force, but for skillful maneuvers in horse- 
manship which they employed in making their attacks. 

Forcing their horses forward, in approaching Stock- 
ton's line, every horseman in their ranks threw himself 
over to one side, bending far down, so that no part of his 
body, except one leg, appeared above the saddle. When 
the columns met, and the horseman was required to use 
the lance or do other effective service, he remained but 
a few seconds in the saddle ; and in the retreat he threw 
himself over along the side of the horse, and rode rap- 
idly in that position, guiding the steed skillfully at the 
same time. By these tactics, the cavalry of the enemy 
avoided presenting themselves as conspicuous marks for 
the riflemen. 

Stockton had three or four hundred head of , beef 
cattle which he had brought from San Diego, or had 
gathered along the route, for the use of his army. In 
forming the square to receive the attacks of the CaH- 
fornians, the cattle were placed within the lines, and also 
his baggage-wagons and supplies. 



TACTICS OF THE CALIFORNIANS. 427 

The enemy made desperate attempts to break 
through at the point where the cattle were stationed, but 
without success. 

It might seem difficult to keep a large body of 
rodeo cattle within the military square during the prog- 
ress of a battle. But the animals were placed in charge 
of the mounted Californians of Stockton's force. They 
were rancheros and were thoroughly familiar with the 
handling of stock ; they made it their duty to see that 
the cattle were kept intact on this occasion. The crea- 
tures gradually became accustomed to the movements 
of the army and were held in place even during the 
discharge of cannon and small arms. Stockton's in- 
fantry and artillery repulsed the attacks, and he man- 
aged the animals so well that no part of his square was 
broken on any side. The Californians finding that our 
army was too powerful for them, finally withdrew from 
the field. 



CHAPTER LI. 

Retreat of the Californians — They are Intercepted by and Capitulate to Fremont 
—The Conquerors march into Los Angeles to the Music of the "Star 
Spangled Banner" — Dispersion of the California Troops — Fremont appointed 
Governor of California — He Arrives at Los Angeles — Exchange of Courtesies 
on Vessels at Sea — ^The Author takes Advantage of the Situation by Prosecut- 
ing Trade— American Soldiers unused to the Syaax Thrust — Good Angels to 
the Wounded Soldiers— A Young Man who Wounded Kearney Extolled for 
his Bravery— The First California Sugar-cane— A Generous Tender of Riding 
Animals Accepted — The Tender Repeated by the Accomplished Widow of 
Don Tomas Yorba — The Lady's t'oresight in Preparing a Way with Horses 
for Crossing a Swollen Stream — The Author makes a Purchase of Wine from 
the Fair Widow — The Author calls at Fremont's Headquarters for a Settle- 
ment of his Claim — A Delay Asked for and Granted — Again put off— The 
Great Man cannot be Seen ; but at last Condescends to Transact the Author's 
Business — The Papers he Signed are Transferred — Stockton a Different Sort 
of a Man — His Promptitude in Securing the Payment of Creditors" Claims 
against the Government— His Ripe Judgment as a Military Commander. 

The Californians retreated toward the San Fer- 
nando Mission, near which point they were confronted 
by Fremont's battaHon, which had advanced that far on 
the way south ; and they capitulated to him. This was 
the whole of Fremont's participation in the conflict. 

Meanwhile Stockton marched his army into Los 
Angeles, to the tune of "The Star Spangled Banner." 
Fremont also soon arrived. 

The Californians findinQ: themselves beaten, and 
seeing the number and determination of their oppo- 
nents and their superiority in arms, in military organi- 
zation and in generalship, quietly yielded, dispersed, 
and went about their business, refusino- to contend fur- 
ther against the United States. 



THE KNEMY CAPITULATE TO FREMONT. 429 

The city of Los Angeles, after our army entered 
and took possession, was orderly and not at all disturbed ; 
the citizens moved to and fro, in the usual way, as if her 
angelic sanctity was not in the least ruffled. 

Stockton appointed Fremont governor of Califor- 
nia. He, perhaps, was influenced to this course by 
Kearney's previous abrupt demand for the position of 
commander-in-chief. Fremont took the office, and 
Stockton returned to San Diego, with his army, includ- 
ing Kearney's force. He embarked his men on the ves- 
sels and took command of the squadron again. 

I arrived at San Diego about the time of the bat- 
tle, with the " Euphemia," in company with the bark 
" Tasso." The two vessels left Santa Barbara at the 
same tinie, a heav^y gale having then abated. A light 
easterly wind prevailed, which required us to beat down 
all the way. We sailed so near to each other that we 
carried on a conversation from one vessel to the other. 
The "Tasso " lowered a boat, and Captain Libbey and 
supercargo Teschemacher came aboard our vessel, stay- 
ing for an hour or two and partaking of refreshments. 
On reaching San Diego we waited for war news. 

Meanwhile, I sold to the different vessels of the 
squadron $3000 to $4000 worth of provisions, its own 
stores having been largely used for the supply of the 
troops ; received purser's bills in payment ; also sold to 
Bandini and to my old friend Captain F"itch, who were 
merchants there. 



430 CALIFORNIANS BRAVE FIGHTERS. 

The dragoons of Kearney's force who were wounded 
in the battle of San Pasqual, about twenty or thirty in 
number, when brought into San Diego had been dis- 
tributed amonof the different famiUes. Dr. R. F. Max- 
well, then surgeon of the " Cyane," was in attendance 
on the men. He took me and Teschemacher with him 
to visit them. They all had the utmost horror of Cal- 
ifornians. The attack upon them had been sudden and 
vigorous, and they had been pursued by the Califor- 
nians relentlessly, and grievously wounded, the lances 
having been wielded with such skill and precision that 
many of the dragoons were killed. 

This was an entirely new experience to the Amer- 
ican soldiers. As there had been no opportunity offered 
to face their enemy in a fair fight, a terrible impression 
had been made upon their minds of the warlike char- 
acter of the native Californians. 

One young man in particular, of about twenty, 
with an intelligent face, suddenly became delirious while 
we were visiting him, and called out in terror, thinking 
the Californians were upon him. The San Diego ladies 
were very kind to these men, visiting and nursing them, 
preparing little delicacies for them and doing all in their 
power to make them comfortable. 

After the troops had returned to San Diego from 
the battle of San Gabriel, Kearney made inquiries for a 
young Californian of the opposing force who had distin- 
guished himself in the battle of San Pasqual by his cour- 
age and valor. He had singled out General Kearney 



MAGNANIMOUS ENEMIES. 43 I 

individually and sprung at him as chief of the enemy. 
When he had succeeded in wounding- the general, and 
the latter had fallen, the young Californian desisted from 
the attack and spared his life. After some inquiry, 
Kearney succeeded in finding out who he was. Upon 
his solicitation the young man called on the general, 
who greeted him warmly, and praised him for his bravery 
and soldierly behavior. 

As soon as we received news of Stockton's victory 
over the Californians, Teschemacher and myself started 
by land for Los Angeles, ordering our vessels to pro- 
ceed to San Pedro. The first night out we slept at the 
rancho of Santa Marguerita, in charge of Don Jose 
Antonio Pico. He was called Teniente (Lieutenant) 
Pico, from his long service in the army. I had known 
him in 1841, '42, '43, in Sonoma, in General Vallejo's 
a-rmy. This rancho was owned by Governor Pico and 
Don Andres Pico, and was one of the most beautiful 
places in the country. Here I saw the first sugar-cane 
growing in California, around a mound near the house, 
in the center of which, at the top, was a natural spring 
of water. Some of the stalks were nearly as large 
as my arm. 

Arriving in the evening, we were received with 
great hospitality by Don Antonio and his family ; had 
an excellent supper ; and talked and smoked, and sipped 
California wine to a late hour, enjoying ourselves 
heartily. 

The next morning I was up early, and, on going 
out, saw the sugar-cane. I expressed my surprise to 



432 TOMAS YORBAS WIDOW. 

Don Antonio, who was already out on the porch, (with 
a black silk handkerchief lied over his head, the four 
ends meeting at the back of his neck.) On receiving 
permission to cut some of the sugar-cane, I feasted on 
its sweetness before breakfast. 

We got an early start, Don Antonio insisting that 
he should send back to San Diego the horses and 
vaqueros we had engaged there to take us to Los 
Angeles ; furnishing us with true California hospitality 
six of his own horses and a vaquero to continue the 
journey, three of the horses to go ahead loose, to be 
used when those we started with had become tired. 
Not wishing to slight his generosity, we accepted them, 
and proceeded. 

We stopped next at the rancho of Santa Ana, 
owned by the beautiful and fascinating widow of Don 
Tomas Yorba, who had extensive landed possessions, 
and great numbers of cattle and horses. She managed 
her rancho with much ability. The lady was one of 
my best customers. In June, 1846, I sold her from 
$2,000 to $3,000 worth of goods, she having come 
to the vessel at San Pedro to buy them. Here we 
passed the night. She also insisted upon furnishing us 
with fresh horses to Los Angeles, having herself before 
we appeared in the morning dispatched ours and the 
vaquero back to Teniente Pico. 

Returning the vaqueros and horses was frequently 
done when guests remained over night. She provided 
us with two horses and another vaquero. It had been 



I 



TOMAS YORBA S WIDOW. 433 

raining for some days, and the Santa Ana river was 
high. 

While we were making our preparations to start, 
Doiia Vicenta, her fine hair streaming over her shoulders, 
a picture of womanly grace and beauty, gave orders to 
her iiiayor-dovio to group four or five nianadas, which 
was done. Having the horses together, the vaqueros 
drove them into the river, across to the other shore, 
and then immediately back to the same place. As they 
returned, Doiia Vicenta said : " The ri\er is now pre- 
pared for you to cross." The object of the move- 
ment of the large number of horses had been to 
trample down and harden the soft sediment or river 
quicksand at the bottom, so that we could cross on our 
horses with greater ease and safety, without risk to 
horse or man. When we were all prepared to start, the 
band of horses was driven over the river again at the 
same place, and we followed immediately in their wake. 

This proceeding, which I have frequently seen in 
other places, for the same purpose, showed the extreme 
kindness of the lady to her guests. While here, we 
drank some good California wine, five or six years' old, 
manufactured by Tomas Yorba, Dona Vicenta's deceased 
husband. They had a large vineyard, and made wine 
for their use, and also for sale to others, and I pur- 
chased of her several hundred dollars' worth of wine 
and aguardiente, to be transported to my vessel at San 
Pedro, and resold. There was no higgling about the 
price, she simply named it when she said I could have 
the articles. 

28 



434 THE SAN GABRIEL NOT FORDABLE. 

The common custom in dealings between the mer- 
chants and the Californians, was for the purchaser not 
to take occasion to ask the price ; the seller quietly 
naming it at once. There was a perfect understanding 
between the parties, and confidence was felt on both 
sides that no advantage would be taken; the price 
stated was at once accepted as the correct one. Mrs. 
Yorba was the aunt of Mrs. Gafia, wife of the American 
consul at Tepic, Mexico, before mentioned. She is 
now living at Anaheim, where her married daughters 
also reside. 

After crossing the Santa Ana, the next important 
stream was the San Gabriel, which we reached toward 
the end of the day, having made rather slow progress 
in the muddy roads. We found the river very swift, 
and, halting at the brink, looked inquiringly towards 
each other. Addressing the vaquero by name, I said : 
'''Que le parece austed? El rio esta bi^avd' (What 
do you think ? The river is mad.) He replied, it was 
dangerous but we could manage to cross. I asked 
Teschemacher what he thought, and he said he sup- 
posed we should have to try. We went in, at the sug- 
gestion of the vaquero all three abreast, so that he could 
keep us in sight. About a third of the way across, the 
vaquero's horse suddenly turned over, and went under 
the swift water. He came up again, the vaquero still 
clinging fast to him. The animal gave a snort, shook 
the water from his ears and went forward to shore. 
Teschemacher's horse made a side motion, as if to turn 
over, but the rider leaned to the other side, and the 



SETTLING WITH COLONEL FREMONT. 435 

animal, regaining his balance, swam across. My horse 
had no trouble, but took me steadily and safely over. 
The horses had to swim most of the way. We got to 
Los Angeles about seven or eight o'clock P. M. We 
were going to Don Abel Stearns' house ; as we ap- 
proached, William G. F"lugge met us and took us to his 
apartments, where he prepared some hot punch, which 
warmed us, after which Doiia Arcadia Stearns provided 
us with an excellent supper. Dry garments and shoes 
were given us, and several hours were spent there 
talking, enjoying ourselves, and drinking California 
wine until we felt in a very happy frame of mind, 
though none of us were intoxicated. Mrs. Stearns 
provided each of us a room, and we slept very com- 
fortably in her excellent beds. 

The captains, supercargoes and merchants in the 
early days of California were nearly all good drinkers. 
They partook freely of California wine and aguardiente, 
which, from the excellence and purity, seemed to have 
no deleterious effect. I never knew of an instance of 
a drunkard among them. 

While we were proceeding from San Diego to Los 
Angeles, Stockton and his force passed in the opposite 
direction, by another road, going to San Diego. On 
the second day after reaching Los Angeles I called on 
Colonel Fremont, who was then Governor of California. 
The first person I saw at headquarters was Colonel 
William H. Russell. He had been made Secretary of 
State by Fremont, and he gave me a little account of 
the movements of the battalion, the capitulation, etc. I 



436 SETTLING WITH COLONEL FREMONT. 

told him I had called to see Colonel Fremont on busi- 
ness, and that I should like to make a settlement of my 
claim against him ; that my vessel was at San Pedro, 
and I probably should not be at Los Angeles more than 
a week. H e answered, in his flourishing style, that the 
colonel was extremely busy ; that he had a great many 
callers and very important matters to attend to ; and 
asked if it would make any difference if he did not pre- 
sent the matter to the colonel until the morrow. I told 
him that a day's delay would make no difference. 

Russell worshiped Fremont as a great hero, carry- 
ing his admiration to a ridiculous extent, thinking Fre- 
mont appreciated him. I called the next day at head- 
quarters, and was again put off by Russell, who told 
me that Colonel Fremont was engaged in writing dis- 
patches to Washington, and could not by any means 
be disturbed. Seizing me by both hands, and shaking 
them warmly, he said, with a good deal of fervor, that 
he should consider it a personal favor if I would call the 
next day, when he would secure the attention of the gov- 
ernor to mv business ; upon which the interview ended. 

I called every day during the week, and was each 
time unable to see Fremont, although Colonel Russell 
informed him I had called, the plea being that his great 
press of business would not admit of it. I became 
convinced that he was trifling and purposely avoided 
an interview. On the seventh day I sent to him by 
Colonel Russell the quartermaster's and commissary's 
receipts for the goods I had delivered, and requested 
their approval by Fremont. I was told to call in the 



SETTLING WITH COLONEL FREMONT. 437 

afternoon, at which time I at last succeeded in getting 
the papers, containing Fremont's endorsement as 
Governor of California. 

Meanwhile, during this week, I was busy in making 
sales at Los Angeles and collecting wine and aguar- 
diente, of which I purchased considerable quantities, 
taking much of it in pay for goods previously delivered ; 
also collecting hides, tallow and money. I made large 
sales. The country having been at war, the supplies 
of the people had become exhausted. 

I did not regret having furnished the supplies for 
the soldiers, knowing how much they were in need of 
them, nor the assistance I had rendered the govern- 
ment in so doing; thus indirectly aiding in conquering 
the country. Nor did I regret that I was not to re- 
ceive my pay when I found it was not forthcoming, 
although it had been absolutely promised by Fremont ; 
but I considered in view of Col. Fremont's relation to 
me as a creditor and of the great accommodation I had 
rendered to him at Santa Barbara, when his force was 
in distress, and of his promise to settle on reaching Los 
Angeles, that I was entitled to courteous treatment. If 
he was not prepared to redeem his promise, he could 
at least have said so in a fair, square, and manly way. 

In January, 1848, my partnership with E. and H. 
Grimes was dissolved, and in settlement I turned these 
two papers over to them. Several years afterward I 
knew that the claim was still unpaid, though I think it 
eventually was settled. 



43^ A CAPABLE COMMANDER. 

Commodore Stockton became U. S. senator and 
interested himself personally to see that the indebted- 
ness which he had contracted, as agent of the orovern- 
ment, for supplies on this coast received attention at 
Washington. 

I may mention one instance : Don Santiaguito 
Arguello, furnished large quantities of army supplies 
to Stockton from his extensive rancho eleven or twelve 
miles from San Diego — several hundred head of cattle 
and horses, and for which he had a claim against the 
government amounting to $14,000. The claim was 
sent to Washington by Major Lee, commissary-general 
for the Pacific coast. Stockton's attention being called 
to it, he exerted himself effectually in itssetdement, and 
in a few months Aroruello received his monev. 

I regard Stockton as the real conqueror of Califor- 
nia and as a man of very large mind, great judgment, 
and extraordinary foresight evinced in his whole career. 
His visit to Los Angeles shortly after coming to the coast 
and his friendly overtures to the Californians at that 
place, and afterward at Verba Buena, showed his wis- 
dom and discernment. When the news of the revolt of 
the Californians was received, he showed his good judg- 
ment in the preparations he made, first here in the 
north, and afterward in San Dietjo, looking months ahead 
for the conflict, and arranging to meet it systematically 
and thoroughly. Instead of hastily going forward with 
a small and unorganized and imperfectly drilled army, 
he took pains to instruct his officers and men for their 



A CAPABLE COMMANDER. 439 

new work ; and at the same time, no doubt, improved 
and qualified himself in army tactics. The gathering 
of recruits, horses and supplies from the country and 
equipping, drilling and organizing his troops for the cam- 
paign, required laborious effort. 

In striking contrast to this mode of proceeding 
was Kearney's hasty and ill-judged action in fighting 
Pico's force, with half-starved and fatigued men mounted 
on mules, which was precipitated by Kearney, against 
the combined judgment of Stockton and Beale. 

We have another example of Stockton's foresight 
and good sense, in sending out a man to warn Kearney 
of there being in the vicinity a more powerful enemy 
(Pico), and to proceed to San Diego without meeting 
that foe. Pi ad any less capable man than Stockton 
been commander-in-chief at that period on the Pacific 
coast, the insurrection of the Californians would have 
been a serious affair. The conflict might have been 
prolonged with further effusion of blood. 



CHAPTER LII. 

A Harsh Sentence Relented — A Mark of Credit to Fremont — A Reflection by 
Native Californians upon the Mexicans and Mexican Government — The 
Author Continues Trade by V'essel — The Passengers on Board^ — Head-Winds 
and a Slow Voyage induce Owner and Passengers to make a Land Journey to 
their Point of Destination — Their Vessel beats them to Monterey — A Profit- 
able Trade Venture — The Author Sails for Honolulu — Money on Board for 
Grimes — None for Consul Abell — The Money for Grimes just in Time — 
Plonolulu gets the Benefit of a Large Marine Commerce from the Pacific 
Coast. 

When Fremont's battalion was passing down to 
Los Angeles from the north, near San Luis Obispo, 
Totoy Pico was arrested as a spy and charged with the 
design of conveying to the Californians information of 
Fremont's approach. Brought before Fremont and 
tried by court-martial, he was found guilty and con- 
demned to be shot. The arrest took place near the 
man's own home at San Luis Obispo, and it was deemed 
improbable that he had designed acting as charged, es- 
pecially in view of the fact that the Californians were 
well-posted as to Fremont's movements during the 
whole progress of the march. If the prisoner had been 
found any considerable distance from his home, between 
Yerba Buena and Los Angeles, the case would have 
looked more suspicious against him. He declared his 
innocence. As the time for the execution approached, 
Pico's wife and family were much alarmed. Mrs. Pico, 
accompanied by her children, appeared before Fremont 
to intercede for her husband. She knelt before him 



CREDITABLE PATRIOTISM. 44 1 

and pleaded eloquently for her husband. The com- 
mander relented, and gave Pico a pardon. They after- 
ward became friends, and the latter went with Fremont 
in his march south. 

In my visits to the camp at Santa Barbara, I saw 
Totoy Pico two or three times and conversed with him. 
He spoke of Fremont's great kindness to him, after he 
had been pardoned, and of the attentions that had been 
shown him. 

In conversation with many of the prominent Cali- 
fornians, at various times, after their defeat in the battle 
of San Gabriel, they expressed themselves freely against 
the Mexicans, saying that they considered the Mexican 
government had appeared badly in the war between 
that country and the United States ; that the fact that 
General Scott had been allowed to march from Vera 
Cruz to the City of Mexico, with hardly a show of re- 
sistance by the Mexicans, seemed to indicate there 
was a concerted plan between Santa Ana and the 
United States government to permit the success of the 
latter's army in Mexico. They seemed to think 
also that Mexico was very delinquent in its duty to 
California, in not sending an army to resist the capture 
of the territory by the United States ; and remarked 
that the Mexican government had sold them like so 
many sheep. They said their own effort against the 
United States forces was in part to show that they were 
not Mexicans and cowards, but had some patriotism 
and love for their country. Although they could not 



442 A DELAY CAUSED BY HEAD-WINDS. 

hope to successfully resist so powerful a nation as the 
United States, yet they had proved their devotion to 
California in not quietly submitting to be conquered, 
without a sign of resistance. 

On leaving San Pedro, I sailed for Santa Barbara, 
with Louis McLane and Josiah Belden on board as 
passengers ; also Jose Ramon Estudillo, who had been 
impressed into the service by the Californians in Contra 
Costa (San Leandro) and taken south by them. He 
was in the fight of San Gabriel. McLane was a passed 
midshipman in the navy aboard one of the United 
States vessels, and held a position on shore as captain, 
(with other officers) for the protection of the flag, and 
had accompanied Fremont's battalion. McLane was 
permitted to return and take his old position at Mon- 
terey. He came on my vessel for this purpose. We 
touched at Santa Barbara, and were four days beating 
up from there to Point Concepcion, against a strong 
head-wind. Seeino- that we had before us a tedious 
voyage, the captain, at my request, anchored under the 
lee of the Point, and Belden, McLane and myself left 
our vessel and went ashore, determined to come up to 
Monterey by land. At the Cojo rancho, Don Anasta- 
cio Carillo's mayor-domo brought us a caponera, and we 
took three good horses and a vaquero and proceeded 
inland to the Rancho Nipoma, owned by William G. 
Dana. When we arrived, we found there H. F. Tes- 
chemacher and Dr. Nicolas A. Den, the former havinor 
left his vessel at Santa Barbara to come up by land. 



OVERLAND NORTH FROM SANTA BARBARA. 443 

The next morning I ordered the vaquero back to the 
Rancho Cojo, with Carillo's horses and a note to the 
owner, explaining the liberty I had taken in borrowing 
them. 

Belden, McLane and myself each bought two 
horses from Dana to continue our journey. Den and 
Teschemacher had brought their horses from Santa 
Barbara, with a vaquero, and a tent on a pack animal. 
We joined in one party, all sleeping in the tent, camp- 
ing out and cooking our own food. We spent several 
days on the journey. The weather was delightful, cool 
and clear, the country fresh and beautiful, with grass 
and wild flowers growing luxuriantly all the way from 
the Cojo to Monterey; and we enjoyed ourselves ex- 
ceedingly. 

On reaching Monterey, the "Tasso" and the 
"Euphemia" were already there, they having got a 
favorable slant of wind after leaving Point Concepcion. 
I continued my trip by land to Yerba Buena, ordering 
my vessel to proceed there, and, on arriving, found that 
my friend and employee, R. M. Sherman, had done a 
good business during my absence. When the " Eu- 
phemia " came into the bay {March, 1847,) I had on 
board over $20,000 in coin (Mexican dollars and doub- 
loons) and purser's bills, the result of sales during the trip 
south and back, besides what was trusted out. 

I also had aboard a large quantity of California 
wine and aguardiente, which were just as good as gold, 
and better, because there was a sure sale for both at a 
profit. Some of the original cargo also remained. 



444 A SMOOTH SEA. 

I was greeted by Captain Grimes, who reported 
that my mother was very ill at Honolulu. I therefore 
made preparations to go hence. On giving Captain 
Grimes an account of my business trip down south and 
the result, he was greatly pleased. His face broke 
out in a smile all over, and he said: "William, you 
have done wonders." 

On the 31st of March, sailed for Honolulu, on 
the " Euphemia" with Pickett aboard, he having re- 
quested me to take him down to visit the Islands. I 
had about $30,000, including what Sherman had col- 
lected during my absence south, a portion of which was 
in Mexican dollars, twenty bags of $1,000 each. We 
left in a south-east storm, but after a day or two it abated, 
and with gentle trade winds the ocean was as smooth 
as glass. A Whitehall boat could have made the pas- 
sage. On arriving at Honolulu after a voyage of 
twenty days, I was met by the pilot in the outer har- 
bor, Stephen Reynolds, a Boston merchant at Hono- 
lulu, who had been previously United States vice-con- 
sul there. He had lived at Honolulu many years, and 
had become wealthy, importing goods from Boston ; and 
yet he acted as pilot. The pilotage was very lucrative. 
He immediately gave the sailors their orders, and we 
were shortly anchored in the harbor, I was met on the 
wharf by Alexander G. Abell. He was then United 
States consul at Honolulu, and was of the firm of 
Abell, McClure & Cheevers, engaged in the trade be- 
tween the Islands and California. The two latter had 



ARRIVAL AT HONOLULU. 445 

taken a large cargo In the brig " Francisca" to the 
Pacific Coast, leaving Mr. Abell to manage the business at 
Honolulu. He asked if I had any remittance for him, 
and when informed I had not, he seemed disappointed ; 
he could not imagine what his partners were doing in 
California, not to have disposed of the goods, or a part 
of them, and remitted the proceeds. I kn^w that they 
had mismanaged the business and were too fond of 
drinking, and enjoying themselves, to make a success 
of it. 

Mr. Reynolds, who was a special friend of my 
mother, accompanied me to her house, and on the way 
asked me what amount I had brought for Grimes ; on 
my replying, about $30,000, he stared in amazement 
and could hardly believe it. He said he was overjoyed, 
for the house had got into trouble financially ; this 
amount would save them from a great disaster ; and it 
did, when I turned the money over to the concern. 

The presence of so large a fleet of vessels on the 
coast, as well as the increasing immigration to Califor- 
nia, had stimulated business, and money was plenty at 
Honolulu. The Sandwich Islands, then being our 
nearest neighbors, were greatly benefited. 

I found my mother very ill. Her death occurred 
four days after my arrival. 

I reached Honolulu on Sunday. While I was at 
my mother's house, with Reynolds, I was sent for by 
Hiram Grimes from his residence, the stores and other 
business places being all closed on that day. 



44^ HONOLULU DESCRIBED. 

Honolulu seemed very much like a thriving New 
England town, both in the business and residence por- 
tions. A person could easily imagine himself in one of 
the suburbs of Boston, in passing through its streets. 

I spent most of my time with my mother until her 
death. After the funeral, I commenced loading my 
vessel for the return voyage. 



CHAPTER LIII. 

Celebrating the Centennial of the Foundation of the Mission Dolores and of 
the City of San Francisco — Rev. Father Junipero Serra, President of the 
Franciscan Missionaries, in Charge of the Missions in California — The Port 
of San Francisco Discovered, A. D. 1769 — The Mission Founded October 
8, 1776 ; the Presidio Three Weeks Before — The Country Never before Inhab. 
ited by Civilized Man — ^Indians Buried in the Darkness of Paganism — The 
Code of Recopilacion de Leges de Indias established by the Spanish Sovereigns 
to Protect the Rights of Indians — If in Rebellion, the Indians to be Reduced 
with Mildness and Peace, Without War, Theft or Deaths — A Detailed Nar- 
ration of the Primitive History of the Presidio, Mission and Pueblo of San 
Francisco. 

The Centennial Celebration on Sunday, October 
8, 1876, of the founding of the Presidio of San Fran- 
cisco and the Mission Dolores, may be truly described 
as a memorable event in the annals of the commercial 
metropolis of California. 

I am indebted to Mr. P. J. Thomas, the compiler 
and publisher of a valuable work upon the founding of 
the Mission of San Francisco de Asis, and historical 
reminiscences of other Missions of California, and which 
includes an account of the procession and the relig- 
ious and civic exercises held at the celebration of the 
foundation of the above Mission in its hundredth 
year — for the privilege of incorporating in this volume 
two very interesting addresses delivered on that occa- 
sion. 



448 A MEMORABLE CELEBRATION. 

At the Mechanics' Pavilion at least eleven thou- 
sand persons were assembled. Among other prominent 
citizens, His Grace, the Most Reverend Archbishop 
Alemany ; the Governor of the State ; the Mayor of 
City and County of San Francisco ; Hon. John W. 
Dwinelle and General M. G. Vallejo, orators of the 
day ; the Collector of the Port of San Francisco ; Con- 
suls from foreign countries ; Col. Peter Donahue and 
Gustave Touchard, were present. 

The Spanish, Mexican and South American ele- 
ments were largely represented in the immense throng, 
which was graced by the presence of many members of 
the clergy of the Province. 

At the Old Mission grounds on the corner of Six- 
teenth and Dolores streets, the celebration was inaug- 
urated with the solemnity befitting so important an an- 
niversary. The exercises commenced with a Grand 
Pontifical Mass at 10 A. M. Beneath a tasteful o-othic 
arch, adorned with ferns, ivy, clematis, and wreaths of 
flowers and tropical plants, the temporary altar was 
erected. The choir excellently rendered Beethoven's 
Mass in C, as well as the Offertory Ave Maria, by 
Loretz. 

At the conclusion of the Gospel, His Grace the 
Most Rev. Archbishop advanced from the altar to the 
front of the platform occupied by the choir, and stated 
that instead of the sermon promised by the Right Rev. 
Bishop Grace, of St. Paul, Minnesota, which would not 
be delivered, owing to the unexpected illness of that 



THE HUNDREDTH ANNIVERSARY. 449 

revered prelate, he would himselfaddress those present. 
The Archbishop then delivered the following discourse : 

THE archbishop's ADDRESS. 

Dearly Beloved : This is a day of joy and exultation, both to 
the citizens of San Francisco, and, in a certain sense, to those of the 
whole State of California, especially to the children of Christian light, 
for to-day we celebrate the Centennial of the Foundation of this Mis- 
sion, and of this vast metropolis of the Pacific Coast. 

If our illustrious nation has justly been celebrating with rejoicin<T 
the Centennial of its existence, and the other nations of the world 
have been admiring the gigantic steps with which our Republic has 
advanced in a hundred years towards every kind of progress, with 
ecjual right and joy we are solemnizing to-day the hundredth anniver- 
sary of the existence of San Francisco as a civil and religious commu- 
nity, because we are especially interested in the establishment and 
prosperous duration of its double edifice, the foundations of which 
were laid in this place by our forefathers a hundred years ago. 

A Centennial may be likened to a prominent, elevated spot, on 
which the traveler loves to rest, not only to cast a glance at the dis- 
tance gained, but also to view the balance of his journey, and pursue 
it with fresh vigor. Thus, our Centennial affords us the jjleasure of 
admiring the noble deeds of our ancestors, and the opportunity of 
encouraging ourselves to follow the course of a true civilization, and of 
our real and permanent interests. Others may perhaps speak of the 
Presidio of San Francisco developing itself in these last years into a 
great capital ; they may assign to it in the near future a prominent 
place among the cities distinguished not less for their wealth and mac^- 
nificent edifices, than for their artistic and literary talent. I will en- 
deavor to limit my few words to religious recollections, inspired not 
only by the present festival and hallowed spot, but also by particular 
persons that have come to take part in the celebration ; for we have 
in our midst the children of St. Ignatius, St. Francis and St. Dom- 
inic, the first Christian pioneers of both Californias, and we now oc- 
cupy the same place occupied a century ago by other ministers and 
other people, guided by the same end, and undertaking the same 
work which we now have on hand — the true happiness of man through 
the code of the Gospel. 

29 



450 VERY REVEREND FATHER JUNIPERO SERRA. 

The spiritual soldiers of Loyola had already amazed the kings of 
Castile and Aragon, when, few in number and with no other resources 
than their breviary and their apostolic charity, they conquered what the 
invincible Cortez and the Spanish armadas had not been able to sub- 
due. By their charity and patience they had gained the hearts of the 
wild tribes of Lower California, and with arduous and apostolic labors 
they had established sixteen Missions in that peninsula. Sad human 
vicissitudes had already determined that the sons of St. Francis, and, 
soon after, those of St. Dominic, should succeed to the charge of 
these Missions ; when a magnanimous heart, a great priest, a zealous 
apostle, desirous of the good of souls and of enriching them with the 
real treasures of Christian faith, the Very Rev. Father Junipero Serra, 
President of the Franciscan Missionaries, willingly offered to come with 
his fellow-laborers to found establishments of religion and Christian be- 
neficence in this, our California. This country had never before been in- 
habited by civilized man ; no one could vouch for his safety in it ; no 
one had known of its fertility and immense mineral treasures. But it 
was known to them that in it there were souls created by the Almighty, 
redeemed by His divine Son, who, buried in the darkness of paganism, 
had never seen the rays of the Christian light ; and this was enough 
to induce them to undertake the great sacrifice of exiling themselves 
to these unexplored shores, ignorant whether it would cost them their 
lives ; but certain that it would subject them to numberless privations 
and arduous labors. 

It is easy for us now to come and live in this land, already well 
known for the benignity of its climate, the fertility of its soil, its 
precious treasures, its magnificent edifices inhabitated by persons of 
cultivated manners ; but who can sufiiciently appreciate the greatness 
of the sacrifice of those Franciscan Missionaries, who, guided by the 
spirit of Padre Junipero, or rather by that of apostolic charity, came first 
to live in this unknown country, among a barbarous people, who might, 
perhaps, repay their heroic sacrifices with ingratitude or even a fatal 
arrow ! Yet they knew that the Son of God had not promised his 
Apostles any other reward in this world than that of being allowed to 
drink of the chalice of His passion for the benefit of man. Ani- 
mated with such apostolic sentiments, those religious men came to our 
California, and having established the Mission of San Diego in 1769, 
and that of Monterey in 1770, they turned their attention to the 
foundation of the Mission of San Francisco. 



THE MISSION OF SAN FRANCISCO FOUNDED. 45 I 

And here I may mention the curious fact that the beautiful bay 
of San Francisco was singularly discovered by land, under the auspi- 
cious exploits of the missionaries; for it had ever remained veiled to all 
European eyes, notwithstanding the various vessels which had periodic- 
ally passed in front of the Golden Gate. Some had inclined to the 
opinion that Sir Francis Drake had entered our port toward the close 
of the sixteenth century ; but it is generally held as correct, what Hum- 
boldt and DeMofras assert, that the port visited by Drake was that of 
Bodega, or the one bearing his name around La Punta de la Reyes. 

The first Europeans that ever saw our magnificent bay were those 
who composed the missionary expedition which came overland from 
San Diego, about the middle of July, 1769, to examine the already 
known port of Monterey ; during which it happened that after the ex- 
ploring party had passed the place now known as La Soledad, instead 
of turning west to their left, in the direction of Monterey, they con- 
tinued their journey northwest, until they found themselves in full 
view of the bay of San Francisco. 

But the Mission of San Francisco was not founded until the 8th 
day of October, 1776. Three weeks before — namely, the 17th of the 
preceding September — the Presidio of this place had been founded 
with the usual formalities ; and, according to the wishes and instruc- 
tions of the Viceroy of Mexico, the Missionary Fathers, accompanied 
by the civil authorities of the Presidio, performed the memorable work 
of the foundation of the Mission with all possible solemnity and for- 
mality ; the account of which is given us by the faithful historian and 
eye-witness of the ceremony. Rev. Father Palou, in the following 
words : 

" Being left alone with the three young men, the work of cutting 
timber was commenced in order to begin the construction of the 
chapel and houses in which to live. On the arrival of the vessel we 
had sufficient timber, and with the help of some sailors furnished by 
Captain (^uiros, in a short time a house was built thirty feet long and 
fifteen wide, all of i)lastered wood, with its roof of tule, and, adjoin- 
ing it, of the same materials, a church was built fifty-two feet lone;, 
with a room for the sacristy behind the altar ; and it was adorned in 
the best way possible with various kinds of drapery, and with the ban- 
ners and pennants of the vessel. On the 8th of said month, the 
Lieutenant having arrived the evening before, the foundation took 
place, at which assisted the gentlemen of the vessel, with all the crew 
(except those necessary to guard the vessel), as well as the commander 



452 A ROYAL COUNCIL. 

of the Presidio, with all the soldiers and people, retaining in the fort 
only the most necessary. I sang the Mass, with ministers, which, 
being ended, a procession was formed, in which was borne an image 
of our SSraphic Father, St. Francis, the patron of the Port, of the Pre- 
sidio and of the Mission. The solemnity w^as celebrated with re- 
peated salutes ot fire-arms, and the swivel-guns which had been 
brought over from the vessel for the purpose, as also by the firing of 
rockets." 

Thus, a hundred years ago, on this spot, with solemn Mass and 
festive procession, with holy blessings and the Te Deiim^ the stand- 
ard of the Cross was elevated, the law of the Gospel was proclaimed, 
the work of conversion and civilization of the gentiles was solemnly 
inaugurated. 

I should now beg leave to examine the means adopted by our 
forefathers to accomplish the noble object w^hich they proposed to 
themselves, or rather the general system and special laws enacted and 
executed by our Christian ancestors, for the Christian civilization — the 
temporal and eternal welfare of the Indians. In order to have an af- 
fair of such magnitude duly attended to, the Spanish crown had con- 
stantly attached to its court a royal Council, composed of men distin- 
guished for their wisdom, prudence and rectitude. This Council was 
especially devoted to the welfare of the Indians ; and to that end it 
was guided by a special provision in the last will and testament of 
Queen Isabella " the Catholic,'' which deserves to be written in let- 
ters of gold. In that order she declares that, in taking possession of 
the islands and lands of the ocean, her principal intention was '' to 
endeavor to induce and bring the inhabitants thereof and to convert 
them to our Holy Catholic faith, and to send to said islands and con. 
tinent prelates and religious clergymen, and other persons learned and 
fearing God, in order to instruct the inhabitants thereof in the Catho- 
lic faith, and to teach them good morals, and to pay all the attention 
to that. I beseech my lord, the king, most affectionately, and I 
charge and command the princess, my daughter, and the prince, her 
husband, that they perform and fulfill that, and that this be their 
principal aim, and bestow much care to it ; and that they never con- 
sent to tolerate that the Indians and inhabitants of those islands and 
continent, discovered or to be discovered, receive any injury in their 
persons or property, but that they enjoin that they may be well and 
justly treated, and that they remedy any wrong which they may have 
received." 



PRINCIPLES OF EQUITY. 453 

It is not possible that Blackstone, the celebrated English jurist, 
in laying down the laws of ecjuity which should guide princes in their 
conquests of American countries and peoples, may have studied them 
in the testament of Isabella ; yet, no doubt, he was guided by the 
principles of right embodied in the ancient digests of Christian juris- 
prudence, when he established the maxim, that " European princes, or 
their subjects, by coming to occupy the soil of the gentile natives, did 
not thereby become the owners of their lands, and that if the object 
of bringing them to Christian civilization gave them some right, this 
was not that of seizing their lands, but that of buying them first with 
preference to others." 

This is the principle which prevails throughout the code of the 
Recopilacion de Leges de Itidias. For, in the first place, it is obvious 
that in those laws the rights of the Indians to their lands are clearly 
respected according to the prescriptions of the code, which direct that 
the assignment of lands to Spaniards be made without injury to the 
Indians, and that such as may have been granted to their injury or 
inconvenience be restored to them to whom they rightfully belong. 
The same is established by the following law : 

"We ordain that the sale, benefice and composition of lands 
be made in a manner that to the Indians be left in abundance all 
such as may belong to them, both as their individual and their com- 
munity lands." 

And in order that the Indians might be better protected in their 
rights to lands, and might not easily lose them by selling them without 
close reflection, it was prescribed that they could not sell their lands 
except before a magistrate ; and that even after the sale they might 
rescind the contract within thirty days and retain their lands, if they 
wished ; and that if the lands of the Indians had been occupied by 
others, even for the space of nine years, they should be restored to 
them. It is also decreed that the settlers be not allowed to establish 
themselves near the lands of the Indians, or to have near them cattle 
which may injure their crops ; and should this injury accidentally oc- 
cur, the Indians must be fully compensated, besides their perfect lib- 
erty to kill any cattle doing them any injury. 

And although it was deemed necessary for the civilization and 
welfare of the Indians to induce them to form towns while cultivating 
their lands, having in them their church and instruction, and their 
own magistrates, the statutes provide that besides their houses and 
gardens in the towns, they should retain their right to other lands be- 



454 A CODE PERVADED WITH CHRISTIANITY. 

longing to them ; and that when they would change domicile, and 
would freely move to other places of their own will, the au- 
thorities should not prevent them, but should allow them to live and 
remain in them, it being at the same time forbidden to force them to 
move from one place to another. In their towns they were to be in~ 
duced to practice some trades, business or employment suitable to 
them, particularly agriculture ; and in order that they should not be 
molested, it was rigorously fordidden to the Spaniards to dwell in 
their towns ; and in a special manner it was also forbidden to sell or 
give them wine, arms, or anything which might injure them or bring 
them to trouble. 

It is also worth considering what such a code enacts in regard to 
their wars. Instead of keeping them in subjection with rigor, or pun- 
ishing them with severity in their rebellious commotion, we find that 
the Emperor Charles V. enjoins on all viceroys, judges and govern- 
ors, that if any Indians would rise in rebellion, they ought to strive 
to reduce them and to attract them to the royal service with mildness 
and peace, without war, theft or deaths ; and that they must observe 
the laws given by him for the good government of the Indians, and 
good treatment of the natives, granting them some liberties if neces- 
sary, and forgiving them the crimes of rebellion committed by them, 
even if they were against His Imperial Majesty and royal service. 
And should they be the aggressors, and being armed, should they 
commence to make war on the peaceable settlers and their towns, 
even then, the necessary intimations should be made to them once, 
twice and three times, and more, if necessary, until they be brought 
to the desired peace. 

The same code contains many enactments regarding the good 
treatment of the Indians ; for instance, it recommends to all the au- 
thorities, and even to the viceroys, the care of providing for them, and 
of issuing the necessary orders that they be protected, favored, and 
overlooked in their failings, in order that they may live unmolested 
and undisturbed, seeing to the severe punishment of the transgressors 
molesting them. It especially charges the Attorneys-General to watch 
particularly over the observance of the laws enacted for their instruc- 
tion, protection, good treatment and prosperity, while it is provided 
that they may have in their towns their own mayor and supervisors, 
elected by themselves, and that an official, high in dignity, should 
visit, among others, the towns of the Indians at least every three 
years, and see that they be not ill-treated in anything. Finally, for 



THE CAUSE OF THE OPPRESSED. 455 

their greater protection, it was decreed by the king that there be j^ro- 
tectors and defenders of the Indians ; that these be prudent and com- 
petent men, and that they perform their duties with the Christian 
spirit, disinterestedness and prompt attention with which they are 
obhged to assist and defend them. 

Conseciuently, there can be no doubt that this precious code of 
the RecGpilacio7i reflects throughout the true spirit of Christian charity 
to which the Indians are entitled, as the aboriginal owners of their 
lands, and as men created by the same God who made us, ransomed 
by the same Redeemer that saved us, and destined, like all others, to 
the same heaven. But, it may be said that, notwithstanding the spirit 
of Christian civilization pervading the code, its laws were frequently 
disregarded, and the Indians had much to suffer from the Spanish 
settlers. Be that as it may, there can be no doubt that most, if not 
all, of the Spanish monarchs were sincerely anxious, and took proper 
measures to see the natives of America protected and attracted to 
Christian civilization. This is particularly true of Queen Isabella, in 
whom, Prescott observes, the Indians found an efficient friend and 
protector. Then, the immense distance intervening between the colo- 
nies and the Mother Country must have naturally prevented the vig- 
orous enforcing and perfect observance of the laws ; yet the same au- 
thor tells us that Cardinal Ximenes' eye penetrated to the farthest lim- 
its of the monarchy. He sent a commission to Hispaiiola to inquire 
into and ameliorate the condition of the natives. 

And, when the natives were oppressed, there were not wanting 
some Las Casas, who bravely espoused the cause of the oppressed, 
frequently crossed the Atlantic to acquaint the Crown with the real 
evils, made the halls of kings ring with their loud and eloquent ap- 
peals in behalf of the Indians, secured just measures, and obtained 
visitors and protectors to examine and redress the wrongs. 

It was, no doubt, due to such measures and vigilance that the 
Indians were not only preserved, but frecjuently advanced to a com- 
paratively good state of civilization. One of the latest writers on Our 
Continent, Mr. Charles Mackay, observes that " in Mexico and South 
America they still thrive.'' "They," says Sothern, " enjoyed for many 
generations a greater exemption from physical and moral evil than 
any other inhabitants of the globe." " We were exceedingly struck," 
says Stephens, on the descendants of the Caribs, " with the great 
progress made in civilization by these descendants of cannibals, the 
fiercest of all Indian tribes." Throughout South America, millions of 



456 PATRIARCHAL SETTLEMENTS OR COMMUNITIES. 

the natives have been preserved and considerably advanced to the 
knowledge and manners of Christian civilization, under the influence 
of good laws and Christian instructors, while nine-tenths of the peo- 
ple of Mexico have been similarly benefited. 

But to return to our California and our Missions. It is pleasing 
to find in their fresh records that, within a very short time, many mis- 
sionary establishments were erected, and thrived, each being directed 
by two Franciscan Fathers, under whom numerous tribes of Indians 
were daily instructed in the lessons of Christianity ; some easy trades 
were practiced, large tracts of land were tilled, luxurious orchards 
and vineyards gladdened the country ; and the whole coast, from 
Sonoma to San Diego, was alive with countless herds of cattle of every 
description. 

There were then no hotels in the country ; each Mission was sit- 
uated some forty miles from the nearest one, and afforded hospitable 
entertainment to travelers, who could go with perfect safety from one 
end of the country to the other. The twenty-one Missions were so 
many patriarchal settlements or communities of Indians, each ranging 
from 1500 to 2500, each individual working for all, all working for 
each, and all enjoying peace and plenty. In 1834, the crops of the 
twenty-one Missions came up to 122,500 bushels of grain, while the 
head of horned cattle belonging to the same numbered 424,000, all 
for the exclusive benefit of the inmates of those Missions, which num- 
bered at that date 30,600 souls, truly blessed with plenty, but still 
more blessed on account of their acquired habits of industry, their 
daily Christian instruction and the practical lessons of morality con- 
stantly inculcated to them. 

Well may California be proud of her heroic, disinterested Chris- 
tian pioneers, who in a short time transformed numberless barbarous 
tribes into comparatively well-civilized Christian communities ; and 
well may we echo to-day with sweet strains of joyous melody the sol- 
emn Te Deum intoned here for the first time one hundred years ago. 

In conclusion, let me pray that the mission of the Franciscans — 
the establishing of Christianity in this country — may ever prove success- 
ful, and that our prosperous city may ever be favored with God's choicest 
benedictions, which will be the case if its citizens will be guided by the 
Christian counsels inaugurated here a century ago. 

Christian principles will insure peace and happiness, and good 
moral Christian lives will keep the state of society in a sound and pros- 
perous condition. The code of the Gospel is the code of the sovereign 



THE CODE OF THE GOSPEL. 457 

legislator, who has an absolute right to enforce it, who demands our 
humble submission to it, and who has declared that on our compliance 
with its provisions depends our happiness, temporal and eternal. It 
is obvious that we shall not witness the next Centennial here ; but I 
hope and pray that we may see it from on high, celebrated here again 
with Christian spirit and becoming solemnity. 

At the conclusion of Mr. Dwinelle's oration, at 
the Pavilion, General Vallejo addressed the assemblage 
in the Spanish language, of which the subjoined is a 
translation : 

GENERAL M. G. VALLEJo's ORATION. 

Honored by the cordial invitation tendered me by the Board of 
Directors of the present celebration, through the most Reverend Arch- 
bishop Alemany, I present myself before you for the purpose of nar- 
rating, in a few but significant words, the history of the discovery, 
occupation and foundation of this Mission of our holy Father, San 
Francisco de Asis, a name which it has borne with dignity since the 
time it was so called by the indefatigable missionary, P'ather-President 
Junipero Serra and companions, in respect and veneration for the 
founder of their Seraphic Order. 

Would that I were possessed of the necessary ability to do justice 
to the merits of those men, to whom is due the civilization of so many 
thousands of souls, and of numberless others that will succeed them. 
But, if my incapacity is great, my ardent desire to comply with the 
duty which has been imposed upon me, and which I have gladly ac- 
cepted, is still greater. I only wish to ask your kind indulgence. 

I shall be as brief in my discourse as a subject of such great mag- 
nitude as this will permit. Before, however, entering into the particu- 
lars of our present subject matter, I may be permitted to give a con- 
densed synopsis of the events by which this port of San Francisco 
came into the possession of the Crown of Spain. 

In the years 1542 and 1543 the navigator Cabrillo sailed up and 
down the coast, and passed San Francisco without having determined 
anything but the formation of the coast line. 

In 1578, Sir Francis Drake, an English buccaneer, anchored and 
remained a month, perhaps, in the small bay on the northern extrem- 



45^ drake's bay. 

ity of the ocean or open bay cf the Farallones, at the same place which 
was called by us the port of Tomales. Drake gave this latter bay his 
name, and the surrounding country he called New Albion. There is 
a bare possibility of Drake's entering the present bay of San Fran- 
cisco, but the weight of evidence is against him. There is no doubt 
that it was in the bay of Tomales that the vessel from China, called 
the " San Agustin," was sunk in the year 1595. It is beyond contra- 
diction that the name of San Francisco was given to the bay at that 
time, on account of some circumstance unknown to us ; perhaps in 
honor of the Patron Saint of the day on which the vessel arrived. 

It is an absurdity to suppose that there can be any connection be- 
tween Sir Francis Drake and San Francisco, except in the imagination 
of some visionary geographer. Very little is known concerning the 
voyage ; but the wreck of the " San Agustin " was afterward brought 
by the currents into the port of San Francisco (the Golden Gate), and 
as far as Verba Buena, at Clark's Point, where I was shown fragments 
of the .same about two hundred years after (1830), by the veteran offi- 
cer Don Jose Antonio Sanchez. 

In 1603, the Admiral Sebastian Vizcayno, having on board of his 
flag-ship one of the pilots of the " San Agustin," sailed up and down 
the co.ist, stopping, without landing in the bay of San Francisco (not 
the present one), which was that of Tomales, near Point Reyes. Viz- 
cayno took very extensive and correct geographical observations ; but 
the only copy of his chart in existence is made on such a small scale 
that very little information can be derived from it concerning this por- 
tion of the coast. 

In subsetjuent years several vessels from the Philippine Islands 
came down the coast on their way to Acapulco ; no mention, however, 
is made that any of them ever touched at any point on the coast of 
California, although it is certain that from the voyages in question we 
have notes concerning its coast. By some data obtained therefrom, 
and particularly from the observations of Vizcayno, the first pilot of 
the Philippines, Don Jose Gonzales Cabrera Bueno, made several sea 
charts which, together with a theoretical '1 realise on Navigation, was 
published in Manilla in the year 1734. This work gives a description 
of the coast from Point Reyes to Point Pinos with the same degree of 
accuracy as can be given in the present day, with the exception of 
what appertains to the Golden Gate and the unknown interior of the 
bay of San Francisco. In it there is described perfectly the ancient 
bay of the same name, near Point Reyes, as the present one was not 
known at that time, and not discovered until thirty-five years later. 



EXPLORATIONS BY THE EARLY FATHERS. 459 

On the 31st of October, 1769, the expedition from San Diego 
was the first that made explorations in California overland. In it 
canie Portola, Rivera y Moncada, Fages and Father Crespi. They 
ascended the hills now called Point San Pedro (county of San Mateo), 
from whence they saw the bay of the Farallones, which extends from 
Point San Pedro to Point Reyes ; and they also noticed Cabrera 
Bueno's bay of San Francisco, and the Farallones. On the ist of 
November they sent a party to Point Reyes. On the 2d of the same 
month several hunters of the expedition ascended the high mountains 
more toward the east ; and, although we have no correct information 
as to the names of those hunters, it is certain that they were the first 
white inhabitants who saw the large arm of the sea known at present 
as the bay of San Francisco. The portion that was seen by them 
was that which lies between the San Bruno mountains and the estuary 
or creek of San Antonio (Oakland). They discovered the bay, unless 
the honor is accorded to the exploring party that returned on the 3d 
of November, who also had discovered the branch of the sea, by which 
they were prevented from reaching Point Reyes, and the primitive bay 
of San Francisco On the 4th of November the whole of the expe- 
dition saw the newly-discovered bay, and they tried to go around it by 
the south ; but not being able to do so, they returned to Monterey. 

The next exploration had in that direction was made by Pedro 
Fages and Father Crespi, in the month of March, 1772, from Mon- 
terey ; and it was with the view of going around the arm of the sea 
reaching Point Reyes, and arriving at the bay of San Francisco of the 
first navigators. For greater accuracy in the description I am about 
to make, I ask permission to use the names by which the places 
through which they passed are known at the present day. 

Fages and Father Crespi started escorted by a guard of soldiers 
of the company of volunteers of Cataluna, and another from that of 
the " Cuera," or Leather coats. They arrived at Salinas river (to 
which they gave the name of Santa Delfina), crossed it, and, passing 
by the site upon which is now located Salinas City, they went over 
the hills and arrived at the place where the town of San Juan de Cas- 
tro now stands. They continued their journey through the valley 
known to-day as the San Felipe, in the immediate vicinity of Hollister. 
After this they crossed the Carneadero creek (known at present as 
Gilroy), ascended and crossed the small hills of Linares (Lomita de 
la Linares) and the dry lake known as ti'.e rancho of Juan Alvirez ; 
went over the gap of Santa Teresa, and entered the valley of Santa 



460 LOCATING THE MISSIONS. 

Clara, where are situated the cities of San Jose and Santa Clara, 
only separated from each other by the Guadalupe river. 

" Here," said Father Crespi, " is a magnificent place to found a 
Mission, because it possesses all the necessary resources : abundance 
of good lands, water, and timber, and a great many gentiles to bap- 
tize." Thence they continued along the eastern shores of the bay, 
arrived at Alameda creek (Alvarado City, Vallejo's Mills and Centre- 
viUe), followed along the bay towards the north, crossed San Lorenzo 
creek (Haywards), thence to San Leandro, Oakland, San Pablo, El 
Pinole, Martinez, Pacheco, Suisun bay, and crossed the San Joaquin 
river at a point not far distant from Antioch. This was on the 30th 
of March. 

As the expedition did not possess the means of surmounting such 
obstacles as it met and reaching Point Reyes, which was its objective 
point, it was determined to return to Monterey by a different route — 
that is, along the foot-hills of Mount Diablo. The President of the 
Missions having become fully convinced of the impossibility of estab- 
lishing that of San Francisco immediately at its own port, as he lacked 
the means of transportation by sea, and in order to proceed by land, 
additional exploring parties were deemed necessary. He reported the 
failure of the expedition of Fages to the Viceroy of New Spain. The 
viceroy gave orders to Captain Don Fernando Rivera y Moncada, who 
had been appointed successor to Fages in command of the military 
posts (presidios) of New California, to make a second examination, 
for the purpose of discovering the most appropriate localities for the 
foundation of the Missions in project. At the same time, in his letters 
of the 25th of May, he calls upon Father Junipero to aid and assist 
the new commander and to occupy and establish Missions in the most 
convenient and suitable places. 

Accordingly, having made the necessary preparations. Captain 
Rivera started from Monterey on the 23d of November, 1774, accom- 
panied by Father Francisco Palou, an escort of sixteen soldiers, and 
some servants. They prosecuted their journey without having en- 
countered any drawback as far as the valley of Santa Clara ; but from 
there they went to the west of the bay between its shores and the ad- 
jacent hills. Following the level plains in the said valley, they passed 
by Bay View, Mayfield, the Pulgas (Menlo Park), Redwood City, Bel- 
mont, San Mateo, San Bruno and Laguna de la Merced, and reached 
Point Lobos. They crossed the ravines, and ascended the mountain 
whence they beheld the entrance to the port of San Francisco (the 



J 



THE EXPEDITION OF JUAN BAUTISTA DE ANZA. 46 1 

Golden Gate). On the 4th of December they planted the symbol of 
Christianity on the most elevated point close to where now stands the 
castle or fortification of the national government, that is, on the south- 
ern portion of what forms the mouth of the said harbor; "on account 
of that being a spot on which no Spaniard or Christian had yet trod," 
according to the narrative of Father Palou. 

That cross I saw myself, in the year 1829, having come to San 
Francisco on business pertaining to the military service. No location 
was at that time made either for a garrison (presidio) or Mission, as 
the severity of the winter months compelled the expedition to return 
to winter quarters at Monterey ; and they verified it by going over the 
route that was taken by the expedition of 1769, which was by San 
Pedro, and Spanishtown (Half Moon bay), in the county of San Ma- 
teo, Point New Year, Santa Cruz City, Watsonville in Santa Cruz 
county, Pajaro City, Castroville, Salinas, and Monterey, which had 
been their starting point. 

In the year 1775, during the months of August and September 
Captain Ayala entered the bay of San Francisco, on board the packet- 
boat " San Carlos," this being the first historically authenticated vessel 
that sailed into that bay. He remained forty days and explored it in 
all directions. Captain Ezeta and Father Palou came up from Mon- 
terey as far as the place where Rivera and the same missionary Father 
had planted the mentioned cross, but they did not find the crew of the 
" San Carlos." 

The next attempt to found a religious and military establishment 
at San Francisco proved successful. The Lieutenant-Colonel, Don Juan 
Bautista de Anza, by orders from the Viceroy, Fra Don Antonio Maria 
Bucarelli y Ursua, recruited soldiers and settlers (pobladores) in Sina- 
loa and gave them all the aid possible to facilitate their journey to 
their new homes in Upper California. Being all assembled at San 
Miguel de Orcasitas (Sonora), they started upon their march on the 
29th of September, 1775, ^V ^^V of the Colorado river, which had 
already been explored by the same Anza in another expedition. The 
colony was composed of thirty married soldiers and twelve' families of 
settlers, which, together, formed a total of two hundred souls, who 
were to found and establish the new towns. Before the departure of 
this expedition by land in March, 1775, <^""^ ship and two packet-boats 
sailed for San Bias, taking on board provisions and effects for the Mis- 
sions and presidios. Providence favored the three vessels, which were 
successful in their operations. On the 4th of January, 1776, Lieuten- 



462 THE PRESIDIO OF SAN FRANCISCO FOUNDED. 

ant-Colonel Anza arrived at the Mission of San Gabriel with his e'xpe- 
dition. Urgent business concerning the security of the establishments 
in Southern California detained him there. By the 12th of March he 
had already reached the Mission of El Carmelo, accompanied by the 
chaplain, Father Pedro Fout, and his escort. On the 2 2d of March 
he set out on a journey to examine the region of country of this port 
of San Francisco, and arrived at the place where Father Palou, in ac- 
cord with Captain Rivera, had planted the cross in December, 1774. 
Having examined the locality well, Anza and the Lieutenant-Colonel 
Don Jose Joaquin Moraga decided that a garrison (presidio) should 
be founded there, and that this subordinate officer should be the one 
to carry the project into execution. 

The expedition continued on their journey ; and, according to 
Father Palou, upon arriving at the bay, which was called " Las Llo- 
ronas" (the primitive name of Mission Bay), they crossed a creek by 
which a large lake is drained, which was called " De Los Dolores," 
and that site appeared to them a suitable place for a Mission, which 
had to be founded in the vicinity of the new advanced military post 
(presidio). They continued on their journey, and went further north 
than the place where Fages and Father Crespi had been, and then 
returned to Monterey. 

On the T7th of June, 1776, the expedition of soldiers and fami- 
lies from Sonora started for Monterey. The military force was com- 
manded by Lieutenant Don Jose Joaquin Moraga ; it was composed 
of one sergeant, two corporals and ten or twelve soldiers, with their 
wives and children. There were also, in the party, seven families of 
resident settlers, five servants, muleteers and vaqueros (stock herders), 
who took care of 200 head of cattle belonging to the king and private 
individuals. This is concerning the new garrison. In what apper- 
tains to the Mission, I will say that there were Fathers Francisco Pa- 
lou and Pedro Benito Cambon, two servants and three neophyte 
Indians, one of whom was from the Mission of San Carlos, and the 
two others from Old California, these having 86 head of cattle in their 
charge. 

The expedition took the same route as that of 1774, and arrived 
safely on the 27th of the same month at the Lake of Dolores, where 
it had to wait for the packet boat " San Carlos," to determine upon 
the location of the garrison and fort. Meantime, it occupied itself in 
exploring the surrounding country. On the 28th, the Lieutenant or- 
dered an enramada, a hut made of branches of trees, to be made, 



ESTABLISHING THE MISSION. 463 

which might serve as a chapel for the purpose of celebrating mass ; 
and it was in it that the first mass was said on the 29th, which was the 
feast of the glorious apostles Saints Peter and Paul. The Fathers 
continued celebrating in the same " Enramada " every day until the 
garrison (presidio) was established near the landing place, where good 
water could be obtained and the land was appropriate. I said good 
water, as subsequent experience proves it to be excellent and possess- 
ing some marvelous (jualities. In proof of my assertion, 1 appeal to 
the testimony of the families of Miramontes, Martinez, Sanches, Soto, 
Briones and others, all of whom had wives that bore twins upon sev- 
eral instances ; and public opinion attributes, not without reason, 
these wholesome results to the virtues of the waters of the " Polin," 
which still exists. 'J'he exploration party remained a whole month en- 
camped awaiting the arrival of the ship, during which time the soldiers 
and settlers were busy cutting timber in order to gain time. 

The month having expired without the packet-boat making its 
appearance, the commander, Moraga, determined to make over to 
the spot which he had in the course of his explorations selected as 
more appropriate for the new garrison (presidio). This he did on the 
26th of July, and all hands went to work and made barracks out of 
" Tule," which might serve them as places of shelter. The first bar- 
rack that was built was dedicated to serve as a chapel, and the first 
mass was celebrated by Father Palou on the 28th. But, by order of 
Lieutenant Moraga, there remained near the lake de los Dolores the 
two missionary priests and servants, with the stock and everything 
else appertaining to the Mission — all under the immediate protection 
of six soldiers. The Fathers occupied themselves in building houses, 
the soldiers of the guard and one resident settler assisting in the work. 
This was the reason why the Reverend Father Palou certified 
on the first page of the primitive Books of Baptisms, Marriages 
and Deaths, that the Mission had been founded on the first day of 
August, 1776. 

I beg leave to be permitted here to mention (because it has some 
connection with part of our history) that during the month of August 
Father Palou administered, on the loth day, the waters of Baptism, 
abinstanti-m mortem, to a child a itw days old, who was the legitimate 
son of Ygnacio Soto and Maria Barbara de Lugo, my mother's aunt, 
which said child was called Francisco Jose de Los Dolores ; and on 
the 25th day a little girl fifteen days old, the legitimate daughter of 
Jose Antonio Sanchez and Maria de Los Dolores Morales, was bap- 



464 THE CEREMONY OF FOUNDATION, OCT. 4, 17/6. 

tized and called Juana Maria Lorenza. This child was taken to the 
baptismal font of the Mission by Don Jose Canizares, pilot of the 
packet-boat "San Carlos." 

The long looked for " San Carlos " entered the port of San Fran- 
cisco and anchored at twelve o'clock A. M. on the i8th of August, 
opposite the encampment where the garrison had to be erected. 
Captain Quiros, his pilots and the chaplain (Father Nocedal) went 
immediately on shore. After the customary salutation had passed, 
they inspected the land selected by Moraga for a garrison, as well as 
that of the Mission, and it was agreed that both places were suitable 
for the purposes to which they had been destined. According to the 
very words used by the Rev. Father Palou, in his diary of the expedi- 
tion, which reads : "About the middle of September, 1776, the sol- 
diers had already built their wooden houses, all duly roofed ; the Lieu- 
tenant had his royal house, and a warehouse made of the same mate- 
rial had been completed of sufficient capacity to contain all the sup- 
plies that the vessel had brought. It was immediately decided that 
the festival should be celebrated with a solemn procession, fixing upon 
the day as that of the 17th of September, the same on which Our 
Mother the Church celebrates the memory of the Impression of the 
Wounds of our Seraphic Father Saint Francis. The day could not 
have been more appropriate, as it was that of the Patron Saint of the 
Port, of the new garrison (presidio), and of the Mission. And for 
taking possession of the Mission was fixed the 4th day of October, 
which is the very day of our Seraphic Father, Saint Francis." 

The ceremony of the solemn procession and foundation of the 
Mission took place on the 4th of October. The Lieutenant, Don 
Jose Joaquin Moraga and his soldiers, Don Fernando Quiros, com- 
mander of the packet-boat, his two pilots, the major part of his crew, 
and, lastly, the never-forgotten Fathers Palou, Tomas de la Pena, 
Cambon and Nocedal were present. I will quote from Father Palou 
again : "A solemn mass was sung by the Fathers ; the ceremony of 
the formal possession was made by the royal ofificers. and when it had 
been completed all went into the church and sang a Te Deum Lauda- 
miis, with the ringing of bells, and, at times, firing salutes with can- 
non and other fire-arms, the ship responding with its artillery." 

It is not only the diary of Father Palou that serves me as author- 
ity to fix upon with exactness the day of the possession and founda- 
tion respectively of the garrison and Mission. These data I had ob- 
tained a long time before I had seen and read the said dairy from the 



THE COMMEMORATION. 465 

lips of the same military men and settlers who were eye-witnesses to 
those ceremonies ; that is to say, from Lieutenant Moraga, from my 
father, Don Vgnacio Vallejo, Don Marcos Briones, Galindo, Castro, 
Pacheco, Bojorques, Bernal, Higuera, Peralta, Amezquita, Franco 
Flores, Hernandez, Mesa and others whose names I do not here 
enumerate, as I do not wish to be too lengthy. 

The temporary building of the church was situated at a distance 
of about one thousand varas to the northwest of the spot where the actual 
temple now stands. The lake of Dolores was at the time located 
and could be seen to the right of the road coming from the Presidio 
to the Mission between two hills, one of which still exists, the other 
one has disappeared before the progressive march of this rich em- 
porium. 

On the 8th day of October of the mentioned year, 1776, the 
erection of the present temple of the Mission of San Francisco was 
commenced, and we to-day on this centennial anniversary, have met 
here, not only to honor the memory of those who dedicated it to the 
service of God, but also to show our admiration of the great prin- 
ciples by which they were impelled, namely, the faith of Him who 
died nailed to the cross for the redemption of man. 

Providence, which is infinitely wise and bountiful, has permitted 
that our venerable pastor should make mention of my father's being 
one o( those brave men who aided and assisted the missionaries with 
his sword. Consequently, at the same time that I satisfy your de- 
sires, I comply with a duty very satisfactory to myself in being the ex- 
ponent of events that transpired one hundred years ago, the date upon 
which commenced the life and existence of San Francisco, which we 
can with pride style the Queen City of the Pacific. JustiUe sor or fides — 
Faith is the sister of Justice. I shall be guided in my remarks by a 
pure and holy love for these two sisters. The invigorating breath of 
the gospel, as I said before, was given to us by some Franciscan Friars, 
who were indeed poor and humble Missionaries of God, but rich in 
Faith and Hope in the success of their grand and arduous task. By 
this means were sown the prolific seeds of Christianity that has given 
such marvelous results during the one hundred years of its existence, 
which this rich and populous city counts ; having written it to-day the 
Metro[)olitan Church, and which, by circumstances and coincidences 
that would be too lengthy to narrate, bears also the name of San Fran- 
cisco. The Metropolitan Church, I said. Yes, it is the one over 
which our worthy Archbishop Alemany so honorably presides. 

30 



466 THE COMMEMORATION, 

Let us for a moment transport ourselves from this day to the for- 
mer century, and let us compare the present gathering here to an as- 
semblage of that epoch. The latter consisted of a handful of men 
who were brave Christians, armed to the teeth, and of another still 
smaller party of humble ministers of Christ, but gifted with wonderous 
fortitude and a firm determination that nothing could change or oppose, 
as they had come to preach the Word of God and were resigned to 
take upon themselves the crown of martyrdom. Both of these parties 
were liable to become at any moment the victims of a rude crowd of 
naked savage gentiles, some of whom had come to them at first 
through curiosity, others prompted by a spirit of destruction, and all 
of them anxious to obtain the presents which were given to them for 
the purpose of alluring them and inspiring them with confidence and 
have them hear for the first time the words of the Gospel. 

The audience whom I have the honor to address on this occa- 
sion is a true representative of the high culture and advanced civiliza- 
tion of the nineteenth century, enjoying all the security and privileges 
which that state of society guarantees to them. 

What a vast difference, gentlemen, between what was, and what 
we see to-day, in this centennial which we celebrate ! Let us bear in 
mind that in the course only of one hundred years, this priviliged place 
has taken a gigantic stride and fallen into the hands of a society 
worthy of prosecuting the work that was begun by those true Pioneers. 
The Mission of San Francisco, which at one time was situated on a 
desert, yet protected by the hand of Providence, to-day may be seen 
nearly in the centre of this populous city of the same name. 

The foundation of the Mission and military post (Presidio) hav- 
ing been completed, the packet-boat sailed on the 21st, for San Bias- 
During its stay in the port the commander (Quiros) had lent all the 
aid possible to the Mission in getting a carpenter and some sailors help 
in the construction of doors and windows for the church and house 
of the missionary Fathers, also in the building of the altar, as well as 
in many other things. Not satisfied with all this. Captain Quiros leff 
four of his crew to work as day laborers on the buildings that were 
being erected and in the tilling of the ground, which was immediately 
commenced. 

I remember this, together with other things, that I heard in my 
youth from the eye-witnesses of these transactions. Among them I 
should mention the boatswain of the packet-boat known by everybody 
as Neustramo Pepe. This brave man, who was a Catalonian by birth. 



DON YGNACIO VALLEJO, 46/ 

had a heart as sensitive as a woman's. He visited my father's house 
at Monterey a great many times in after years, and in conversation 
had with our family he often related the fact of the foundation of the 
Post and Mission of San B'rancisco, where he had worked with an 
energy worthy of all praise. 

A great many times and on several occasions he said to my father, 
shedding tears : " Do you remember, Don Ygnacio, our farewell on 
board the packet-boat when Captain Quiros gave the banquet to the 
ofificers and priests ? Do you recollect how afterwards the military 
and naval officers, with the priests, who were assembled at the landing 
place on the beach, embraced one another and shook hands ? Do 
you remember that from there, after we weighed anchor, all the 
military men and the priests went towards the strip of land that pro- 
jects out and forms the southern cape of the Port (where now stands 
the fortification), and while they were there they waved their hand- 
kerchiefs and their hats to us as we passed, kindly bidding us a last 
adieu? What a solemn day was that, my friend ! Do you remember 
how the currents dragged our vessel towards the opposite shores of the 
harbor ; and how we were there exposed to great danger, until a fav- 
orable breeze came up from the northwest, and saved us from being 
dashed against the cliffs of rocks ? Yet, in the midst of that tribulation, 
and such despair, we left in sorrow for you who remained exposed, and 
at the mercy of so many barbarians. Why, man, even Quiros shed 
tears 1" 

Before leaving our friend, Neustramo Pepe, it is very gratifying 
to me to mention that his popularity among our people was so great, 
than no sooner would there be news of the arrival of some ship on the 
coast — that is, at San Diego or some other inhabited place — than 
every one would incjuire whether Neustramo Pepe had come ; and if 
he was there he would be received with enthusiastic hurrahs and cries 
of acclamation by all the people present. 

We already have our apostolic men engaged in the great work of 
the redemption of thousands of gentiles to whom God had opened 
the way to heaven. It seems to me that I see those intrepid men 
(ministers of the altar and warriors of shield and sword), in these 
regions, surrounded by a ferocious and barbarous people whom they 
had to conquer for God and their sovereign. Combining the two ex. 
pedients, which affects the human heart most ? The main object 
which both priests and soldiers had in view had to be attained. 
'■^ Suaviter in modo fortiter in re.''' The mildness of the minister of 
God upheld by the force of armed men produced the desired effects. 



468 PRIMITIVE HISTORY. 

The assiduity of the missionaries never relaxed before the numer- 
ous obstacles daily thrown in their way. With the meekness of true 
Apostles, they succeeded in getting the barbarians to present themselves 
voluntarily to receive the waters of baptism. By holy abnegation, the 
example of their virtues, and of their constancy, they at last gained 
the confidence of a considerable number of catechumens who gradu- 
ally began to draw near. 

It is a fact known by all the Californians, old as well as new, 
that whole tribes from the surroundings of the bay came to accept 
a religious faith, which, till then, had been wholly unknown to them ; 
but, for all that, there were some turbulent, wicked ones who from the 
commencement had been opposed to the advance or progress of the 
foreigners, as they called the Spaniards in their own dialect. This 
feeUng of animosity was made evident a few days later when the Bitri- 
buri from the Indian villages (rancherias) afterwards called San Mateo» 
attacked one hut situated about three miles from the Laguna de Los 
Dolores and set it on fire. Such was the terror which this act caused 
in them, that not even the assurance of protection which was promised 
them by the garrison was sufficient to prevent their crossing on their 
tule rafts to the opposite side of the peninsula, which to-day is 
Marin county, as well to that on the East, which is known at present 
as Oakland, Alameda, etc. The fugitives kept away for some time ; 
but at last they commenced to visit the Presidio, and, by December, 
became so courageous, that they considered themselves strong enough 
to commit depredations on the Mission. 

The commanding sergeant of the guard, Juan Pablo Grijalva, 
caused one of those who had been hostile to be flogged, and this act 
enraged and alarmed the friends of the culprit. Two of them fired 
their arrows at the soldiers, but luckily did not do any harm. On the 
following day the sergeant determined to chastise the audacity of those 
who had been turbulent, after which an encounter took place with them 
in which one of the residents was wounded who killed his antagonist 
with one shot, and his body fell into the estuary. The rest of the 
Indians fled, but went to some rocks from whence they continued 
their hostilities. 

A shot well aimed by the sergeant struck one of the gentiles in 
the thigh, the ball going through and lodging in the rocks, from where 
it was taken by the Indians. The death of one and the wounding of 
another of the savages discouraged them to such a degree that they 
asked for peace, which the sergeant granted them. Nevertheless, the 



PRIMITIVE HISTORY. 469 

two Indians who had been the cause of the encounter were taken pris- 
oners. The sergeant had them chastised severely, giving them to un- 
derstand that if, in the future, they again manifested hostility they 
should forfeit their lives. This unfortunate occurrence retarded some- 
what the conversion of those gentiles for several months ; but about 
the beginning of 1777 they could be seen about the Mission, and three 
of them were baptised on the 29th of June of that year. 

On the 6th of January, 1777, a party of armed soldiers, under 
the command of Lieutenant Moraga, with an escort, and Father Tomas 
de la Pena, went from San Francisco to the place where the Mission 
of Santa Clara was founded ; and another came later, accompanying 
Father Jose Murguia, from San Carlos or the Carmelo, bringing pro- 
visions and supplies for that same place. Both priests were to remain 
in charge of the new establishment. Father Murguia did not arrive 
until the 21st, but Father Peha had already celebrated mass there on 
the 1 2th. 

The work of the missionaries continued without interruption on 
the part of the Indians. In 1778, the ship " Santiago," alias " Nueva 
Galicia," arrived from San Bias, bringing on board a cargo of provis- 
sion for the Mission of San Francisco, together with other effects and 
merchandise for the Presidio. 

Nothing worthy of mention occurred until the latter part of June, 
1779, on which date the ship "Santiago" entered the port of San 
Francisco again with supplies and merchandise for the Mission and 
Presidio. In the year 1780 the vessel "Santiago " did not visit the 
port of San Francisco, but left at Monterey one hundred fanegas 
(Spanish bushels) of corn and other merchandise, which it became 
necessary to transport by land with very great difficulty. Worse was 
the fate not only of San Francisco, but of all the Missions and garri- 
sons (Presidios) of Northern California in 1781, as no provisions or 
yearly supplies from the king arrived. This caused great inconveni- 
ence, and did considerable damage to the conejuest. 

Our virtuous missionaries had in that year already reaped such 
abundant fruits from the vineyard which they were cultivating for our 
Lord Jesus Christ, that the Reverend Father-President Junipero Serra 
came to San Francisco, for the first time, and, exercising the powers 
with which he had been vested by the Holy See, administered the 
Sacrament of Confirmation to sixty-nine neophytes. 

The following year of 1782 was also unfortunate on account of 
the great loss suffered by the Missions in the death of the old mission- 



470 PRIMITIVE HISTORY. 

ary Father, Friar Juan Crispi. This venerable man and wise apostle 
had already counted thirty years of missionary life among the Indians, 
and came to New California in the expedition that founded the first 
establishment at San Diego, in the year 1769. In the next succeeding 
year he was present at the foundation of the Mission of San Carlos de 
Monterey. I have already related the active part which he took with 
the Commander Fages in trying to find a place suitable for the estab- 
lishment of another Mission at the port of San P'rancisco. These 
eminent and invaluable services which he rendered entitle him to the 
highest position among the many worthy missionaries of his Seraphic 
Order. 

On the 13th of May, 1783, two vessels entered our ports with 
supplies and provisions for the presidios and Missions that had al- 
ready been founded. Friar Pedro Benito Cambon, who had been 
absent on several occasions, was sent back to this Mission to accom- 
pany Father Palou. 

On the mentioned date, two other vessels arrived with more provis- 
ions and merchandise, bringing an auxiliary force of missionaries, com- 
posed of the Reverend Fathers, Friar Juan Antonio Garcia Rioboo and 
Friar Diego Noboa. Both of these clergymen remained in the Mis- 
sion of San Francisco, and took part with the resident ministers in 
celebrating the feast of Corpus Christi with all the solemnity that 
their means allowed. 

After this they were called away by the President and ordered 
to go to Monterey. The missionary Fathers, at the same time that 
they worked for the good of the soul, did not neglect material hap- 
piness. 

When they had a pretty large congregation oi converts under 
subjection, they dedicated them to works of industry. Besides the 
agricultural pursuits, from which the missionaries as well as the neo- 
phytes and catechumens were to receive their subsistence, adobes, 
bricks, tiles, etc., were made, and the construction of the holy temple 
Avas begun ; granaries, residences, quarters and a guard-house for the 
soldiers, and lastly houses for those Indians who had been converted 
to Christianity, were built. It will be readily seen by this account 
that the most worthy Fathers were constantly employed in their spir- 
itual as well as temporal labors ; although the latter were always subor- 
dinate to the former. 

In one of my journeys to San Francisco, during the year 1826, I 
found this Mission in all its splendor and state of preservation, con- 



THE speaker's RECOLLECTIONS. 47 1 

sisting, at that time, of one church, the residence of the Reverend 
Fathers, granaries, warehouses for merchandise, guard-house for the 
soldiers, prison, an orchard of fruit trees and vegetable garden, cem- 
etery, the entire rancheria (Indian village) all constructed of adobe 
houses with tile roofs — the whole laid out with great regularity, form- 
ing streets, and a tannery and soap factory— that is to say, on that por- 
tion which actually lies between Church, Dolores and Guerrero 
streets, from north to south, and between Fifteenth and Seventeenth 
streets, from east to west. I think that the neophytes living in 
the Mission, in San Mateo, and in San Pedro reached six hundred 
souls. 

In the year 1S30, I was directed by my superior officer to con- 
tinue to serve at the presidios. Everything was in the same state of 
preservation in which I had left it in 1826. 

I recollect, with joy, that on the 4th of October, 1830, while the 
Reverend Father Friar Thomas Estenega was minister of the Missions 
and I was acting as adjutant of the garrison (presidio), the military 
commander was invited to take part with his officers in the celebra- 
tion ; consequently, all the soldiers were present that he who now ad- 
dresses you had under his orders. Salutes were fired in front of the 
church and residence of the priests on that day in regular order. 
There were also present at the celebration of the holy Patron Saint, 
the Reverend Fathers, Friar Jose Viader of the Mission of Santa 
Clara, Friar Buenaventura Fortuni, of that of San Francisco Solano, 
and Friar Juan Amoros, of that of San Rafael. During the mass 
the last priest mentioned officiated, while Fathers Viader and Fortuni 
acted as deacon and sub-deacon — Father Estenega (who was still 
young) being left in charge of the choir, music, etc. 

A sermon was preached by Father Viader, relating to the festiv- 
ity of the holy Patron, and to the foundation of the place on the 4th 
of October, 1776. 

This was the last celebration at which four Spanish priests, from 
Spain, assisted with the same object as that had by the meritorious 
Pioneers, and the ministers Palou, Cambon, Peiia and Nocedal, on 
the 4th of October, 1776, one hundred years ago. What a singular 
coincidence ! I will give a short biography of those apostolic men. 

Reverend Friar Jose Viader was a man of refined manners ; tall 
in stature, somewhat severe in his aspect, open and frank in his con- 
versation. He was as austere in religious matters as he was active in 
the management of the temporalities of the Mission of Santa Clara, 



472 THE SPEAKERS RECOLLECTIONS. 

which he always administered. He became remarkable, among other 
things, because the Rosary, which he carried fastened to the girdle of 
the Order around his waist, had a large crucifix attached to it. 

Friar Fortuni was a holy man who was incessantly praying ; he 
could always be seen in or out of the Mission with the Breviary in his 
hand, or reciting the Rosary in the church : he was very learned and 
affable in his intercourse with the people of those times; and was very 
humble, and, besides, a great apostle. 

Friar Tomas Estenega was a young man of medium height, the 
personification of activity, of jovial disposition, select and varied in 
his conversation, an excellent and very sincere priest. He had seen 
a great deal of the war of the revolution in Spain, and was there dur- 
ing the French invasion, when Napoleon I. and his brother Joseph 
tried to appropriate to themselves that privileged land. 

Friar Juan Amoros was sanctity itself; and if I possessed the 
eloquence of the great orators, I would consume more time in depict- 
ing the brilliant qualities which adorned that venerable missionary. 
But not having those talents I shall limit my remarks, and say that 
Father Amoros was a model of virtue, charity, humility, and of Chris- 
tian meekness — a man without a blemish, of a candid heart, and of 
most exemplary life ; he was the admiration of his contemporaries and 
the astonishment of the tribes of the aborigines. 

When I was a child, nearly seventy years ago, I knew him at the 
Mission of San Carlos of Monterey as chaplain of the garrison of the 
same name. AVhen he came to celebrate mass in the chapel of the 
soldiers on Sundays he always brought a few sweet figs, dates and 
raisins in the sleeve of his habit, which he distributed after mass to 
the boys of the Sunday school ; but this he did after he had given in- 
struction in Christian doctrine for half an hour. On the 14th of July, 
1832, this apostolic missionary died at the Mission of San Rafael, at 
half-past three o'clock in the morning. 

The register of his burial says that he was a native of the Prov- 
ince of Catalonia (Spain), born on the loth of October, 1773 ; took 
the habit of Our Seraphic Father San Francisco on the 28th day o^ 
April, 1 791; was admitted into the Order by making the necessary 
vows on the 30th of the same month of the following year, and was 
ordained priest in the month of December, 1797. On the 4th of 
March, 1803, he left Catalonia to come to the college of San Fernando, 
in the City of Mexico, where he arrived on the 26th of July. 



THE speaker's RECOLLECTIONS. 473 

In 1804, animated by his great zeal for the conversion of the gen- 
tiles, with the blessing of his superiors, he came to the Missions of 
Upper California, where he arrived in the commencement of the year 
1804, and was appointed as minister to the Mission of San Carlos, 
where he lived fifteen years, acting as resident apostolic minister. 
From there, by permission of his superior, who was the Reverend 
Father Prefect Friar Mariano Payeras, he went to that of San Rafael, 
where he worked and labored with astonishing perseverance until his 
death. He was buried in the Mission church on the 14th of July, at 
five o'clock in the afternoon. 

I must remark that the Mission of San Rafael was for several 
years a branch of that of San Francisco, and always remained under 
the jurisdiction of this Presidio. I speak with so much feeling of 
kindness toward Father Amoros, because I am cognizant of his great 
virtues, his pure heart and sincere devotion. Moreover, it was with 
him that I made my first Confession ; and from his holy hands I re- 
ceived for the first time the consescrated bread of the Eucharist. 

I have already made mention of his moral gifts ; it remains now 
for me only to describe his physical aspect ; and I could not give you 
a more exact idea of him, nor draw a more perfect likeness from the 
original, than by calling your attention to the person of a most esteemed 
ecclesiastic who is here present ; his stature, manners, features, smile 
and amiable disposition all bring back to my memory the image of that 
holy man. Neither Rulofson nor any other of our most skilled photog- 
raphers could produce as perfect a picture of Father Amoros than 
that which we have before us in the person of our venerable Arch- 
bishop, Joseph Sadoc Alemany. And, at the same time, I feel highly 
pleased to say that it is not only in the physical qualities that I find a 
great resemblance in the two men 

I must observe here, that during the first years of the foundation, 
as the Indians of the Buriburi tribe were not willing to live in this 
place on account of it being extremely cold, and destitute of those 
fine groves of trees which the hand of Providence was jileased to 
plant in the region which they occupied, and as the Indians from San 
Pedro were enjoying the benefits of their fertile lands, and hence op- 
posed to come and live in a climate so different from that in which 
they were born, in order to remedy this inconvenience, and at the 
same time avail themselves of religious instruction, both tribes peti- 
tioned the Father ministers, asking to be allowed to live on their lands, 
obligating themselves to build chapels and to dedicate themselves to 



4.74 THE SPEAKERS RECOLLECTIONS. 

agricultural pursuits and other labors, all of which was done with 
great success. 

The priests went every Saturday, accompanied by an escort, said 
mass, preached, and then returned to the mother church. The min- 
isters maintained for some time a chapel and storehouses for grain 
amongst the Juchiyunes, Acalnes, Bolgones, and Carquinez Indians, 
who occupied that portion of country known as Contra Costa. The 
chapel was located in what is known to-day as the rancho of San 
Pablo, where the missionaries went to comply with their ministerial 
duties, and, besides, to direct the works and attend to the administra- 
tion of their temporalities. 

The immense wealth of the Mission of San Francisco, was ac- 
quired from those three farms, and from its own lands, which were 
situated from Rincon Point to Hayes Valley (El Gentil), Devisadero, 
and the garrison (Presidio) to Point Lobos. These were recognized 
as its boundaries, from the time of the ancient founders ; upon which 
grazed all its cattle, horses, sheep and hogs, and from which abund- 
ant crops of wheat, corn and beans were harvested. 

The foundation of San Rafael was made on the 14th of De- 
cember, 181 7. High Mass was celebrated by the Rev. Prefect, 
Father Vicente Francisco de Sarria, assisted by Fathers Luis Gil, Ra- 
mon Abella and Narciso Duran, with sermon and other ceremonies 
analogous to the occasion. Father Sarria baptised four little Indians, 
and called them respectively by the names of Rafael, Miguel and 
Gabriel (in honor of the three Archangels), and the fourth by his own 
name, Vicente Francisco. Father Luis Gil de Taboda remained as 
resident priest there. 

This Mission was the fourth daughter of that of San Francisco ; the 
first having been that of Santa Clara, as I have already said, the second 
that of Santa Cruz, which was founded on the 29th of August, 1791, 
and the third was that of San Jose, founded on the nth of June, 
1797. The last one was that of San Francisco Solano (Sonoma 
Valley), founded in 1823 ; abandoned soon after on account of the 
incursions of the Indians, and re-established in 1827, under the super- 
vision of the virtuous Father Fortuni ; but it was not rebuilt perma- 
nently until 1830. 

The Spanish successors of the worthy Fathers Palou and Cambon 
in this Mission were, if my memory serves me right, Friars Ramon 
Abella, Juan Lucio, Juan Cabot, Jose Altimira and Tomas Estenega. 
I was personally acquainted with all of them, and I can testify to their 
being worthy ministers of God and indefatigable apostles. 



THE SPEAKERS RECOLLECTIONS. 4/5 

And now, permit me to make a few remarks in defense of the 
good name of some of the individuals who governed this country 
during the Mexican Administration, whose reputation has been some- 
times wantonly attacked ; while nothing has ever been said against the 
governors, under Spain, who preceded them. 

Much has been said, and even more has been written, concerning 
the Missions and their great wealth. And who are they that figure in 
that drama ? Who are its authors ? Are they, perchance, impartial 
men ? or, to say the least, have they an accurate knowledge of the 
history of the Missions or this Upper California ? No, no ! gentle- 
men ; they were foreign writers, interested parties, and consecjuently 
partial in their style ; who, without reflection, hurriedly advanced, as 
undeniable fact, that which was false, all for the purpose of deluding 
the ignorant and of profiting by the utterance of base falsehoods, at 
the same time that they flattered their taste by censuring indirectly 
and unfairly the acts of the collectors of the Missions, styling them 
thieves, etc. That the Missions were rich we all know. But what 
were those riches? This they do not tell us. Nevertheless, these 
riches consisted in moveable stock and agricultural productions : but 
they make no mention of pecuniary wealth. 

That the Mexican governors robbed the Missions is an absurdity 
The first Mexican governor, Don Luis A. Arguello, a native of San 
Francisco, was decidedly a protector of the Missions and a friend to 
the missionaries. He died poor, leaving his family no other patri- 
mony than the small rancho of Las Pulgas, with a few head of stock. 

The second governor, Don Jose ^Laria de Echeandia, exercised 
his authority in the time of the Republic ; and although he was al- 
ways directly opposed to the Spanish priests because they would not 
swear to the Mexican constitution, nevertheless, he extended to them 
his protection as much as it was in his power, and in conformity with 
the instructions which he had from the new government. From this 
resulted, necessarily, a misunderstanding between the ancient min- 
isters and the new governor, who esteemed them highly ; and if he 
had to act against some of them, it was done for a legal cause, and 
not because he had any antipathy or hatred towards them. 

After having governed the country for five years, Echeandia had 
great difficulty in collecting and getting together, by the aid of the 
priests of San Luis Rey and San Juan Capistrano, who were his 
friends, the sum of three thousand dollars which he needed to return 
to Mexico. Don Manuel Victoria was the third governor, who, from 



K 



4/6 SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS. 

his coming into power, gained the good will of the missionaries and 
was always upon the best terms with them. All the steps towards sec- 
ularization which had been taken by his predecessor were annulled 
by Victoria, even before he was in possession of the government. 
His official conduct was despotic, and he forced the Californians to 
send him out of the country, yet it would be an injustice to accuse 
him of having robbed either the country or the Missions. The priests 
aided him pecuniarily, that he might be able to leave. 

Don Jose Figueroa, the fourth Mexican governor, was an edu- 
cated and upright man. He died poor at Monterey. 

Castro, Gutierrez, Chico, Alvarado, Micheltorena, and, lastly, Pio 
Pico, all had to contend with revolutionary elements. The priests 
had disappeared, the neophytes had left the Missions and gone away 
to the villages of the gentiles, and the government, under such cir- 
cumstances, had to take possession of the lands which were claimed 
by the Missions, through the power which it possessed, and in order 
to defend the country against an invasion with which it was threatened. 

When the old missionaries saw that the political tornado was 
about to burst upon the Mission system, they commenced to convert 
into money all their moveable property, such as cattle and stock. In 
the Missions of San Gabriel, San Fernando, San Juan Capistrano 
and San Luis Rey, they killed by contract with private individuals, 
during the years 1830, 1831 and 1832, more than sixty thousand head 
of cattle, from which they only saved the hides. The pecuniary 
wealth of the Missions in their primitive days, which were more pro- 
ductive, was sent out of the country to Spain, Mexico or Italy. This 
I know ; and presume, and even believe, that all of it arrived safely at 
its place of destination. Be that as may, neither the governors nor 
the Californians ever partook of any of that wealth, with the excep- 
tion of $20,000, which, upon an occasion of imperative necessity, we, 
the members of the Deputation, together with other prominent citi- 
zens, obtained from Father Jose Sanchez of the Mission of San Ga- 
briel, to facilitate the payment of the expenses of a military force des- 
titute of everything at the time, thus avoiding the commission of 
greater evils. 

During the lengthy period of the war of Independence, and even 
afterwards, the Missions supplied the troops of the Cuera (leather coats) 
with provisions and other effects, as no more yearly supplies had 
been sent from Mexico. 



I 



SECULARIZATION OF THE MISSIONS. 4// 

But it is necessary to bear in mind that the Spanish flag waved 
over California, and that the priests did no more than comply with 
the orders of the king, at the same time that they looked for their 
own protection and that of the Missions, soldiers being constantly en- 
gaged in protecting the Missions, and in continuous campaigns for 
the purpose of keeping the Indians under subjection. Without 
those soldiers, the Indians would have risen immmediately against 
the Missions, and all the white inhabitants would have inevitably per- 
ished. 

The missionaries from the College of our Lady of Guadalupe, 
Zacatecas, came from Mexico in the year 1832, and it was the lot of 
the Mission of San Francisco to have, as a missionary Father, Jose 
Maria Ciuitierrez, who continued here for some time. After that, 
Fathers Lorenzo Quijas and Mcrcado had charge of it alternately. 
When this Mission was secularized, it was delivered over to several 
overseers (mayor-domos) who were appointed by the political govern- 
ment, until the Lidian priest, Prudencio Santillan, took charge of it. 
This Reverend Father had been ordained in sacris by the first Bishop 
in California, Friar Don Francisco Garcia Diego. 

I have occupied the attention of this intelligent audience so long 
for the purpose of giving a detailed narration of the primitive history 
of the Presidio, Mission and Pueblo of San Francisco, which, up to 
the year 1846, did not count a population any greater than that 
within this fine hall — a weak fortification, one or two officers, a com- 
pany of soldiers and a handful of resident settlers in twenty-five or 
thirty houses. 

What a change is presented to our view to-day ! A great city, 
which, having absorbed the three points mentioned, has filled the en- 
tire peninsula with a population of nearly three hundred thousand 
inhabitants, dedicated to all the arts known to the highest degree of 
civilization. The harbor and city, protected by strong fortifications and 
well-equipped ships of war, situated on the most advantageous posi- 
tion, it is destined to become the grand commercial centre of India, 
China and Japan, at the same time that it will be such for the entire 
northern coast of the Pacific. What shall be the destiny which the 
Sui)reme Benefactor has prepared for this portion of our beautiful 
native land for the next coming hundred yt-ars? i entertain the full 
conviction that the hand of the Great Creator, by which is 
guided the progress and hapjjiness of mankind, will carry us 
to the highest degree of excellence in all the branches of knowl- 



47^ STATE OF THE MISSIONS IN 1 833. 

edge. Then, it is to be hoped, that those who will celebrate that 
day taking a retrospective view of the present epoch, will remem- 
ber with gratitude what this generation, by divine aid, has established 
for them, to carry on, until they reach moral, intellectual and physical 
perfection. 

And let us from this moment send cordial salutations to our 
fortunate decendants who will see the brilliant dawn of the second 
Centennial of the Foundation of the Mission of San Francisco de 
Asis. 

In the work entitled "Our Centennial Memoirs," 
published by P. J. Thomas, of San Francisco, to which 
we have alluded elsewhere, is an interesting translation 
from a letter of the Venerable Father Gonzalez to 
Father Adam, of Santa Cruz. I take pleasure in pre- 
senting it. Father Adam was a young missionary, 
and the letter, describing the condition of the Missions 
on the California Coast and the losses they sustained 
through the oppressive acts of the Mexican Govern- 
ment, was written in September, 1864, from the 
Apostolic College of our Lady of Los Dolores, Santa 
Barbara. Father Gonzales was the last of the old pio- 
neer missionaries who labored to plant the Cross in 
these golden regions. In this letter he gives to the 
young missionary a general view of the state of the 
Missions on his arrival in California : 

" Rev. and Dear Sir : — On my landing in this country, which 
happened on the 15th of January, 1833, there were in existence from 
San Diego up to San Francisco Solano 21 Missions, which provided 
for 14,000 or 15,000 Indians. Even the poorest Missions, that of 
San Rafael and Soledad, provided everything for divine worship, and 
the maintenance of the Indians. The care of the neophytes was left 
to the missionary, who, not only as pastor, instructed them in their re- 



STATE OF THE MISSIONS IN 1 833. 479 

ligion and administered the sacraments to them, but as a householder, 
provided for them, governed and instructed them in their social life, 
procuring for them peace and happiness. 

" Every Mission, rather than a town, was a large community, in 
which the missionary was President, distributing ecjual burdens and 
benefits. No one worked for himself, and the products of the harvest, 
cattle and industry in which they were employed was guarded, admin- 
istered and distributed by the missionary. He was the procurator and 
defender of his neophytes, and, at the same time, their Chief and 
Justice of Peace, to settle all their cjuarrels, since the Mission Indians 
were not subject to the public authorities, except in grievous and 
criminal cases. 

" This system, though criticized by some politicians, is the very 
one that made the Missions so flourishing. The richest in population 
was that of San Luis Rey ; in temporal things, that of San Gabriel. 
Mine was that of San Jose, and, although I was promised, as it was 
on the gentile frontier, it would not be secularized, it, too, succumbed 
in 1836. 

" In the inventory made in January, 1837, the result showed that 
said Mission numbered 1,300 neophytes, a great piece of land, well 
tilled ; the store-houses filled with seeds ; two orchards, one with 1,600 
fruit trees ; two vineyards — one with 6,039 vines, the other with 
5,000 ; tools for husbandry in abundance ; shops for carpenters, 
blacksmiths, shoemakers, and even tanneries, and all the implements 
for their work. 

" The fields were covered with live stock ; horned cattle, 20,000 
head ; sheep, 15,000; horses, 459. For the saddle 600 colts of two 
years, 1,630 mares, 149 yoke of oxen, thirty mules, eighteen jackasses 
and seventy-seven hogs. 

"Twice a year a new dress was given to the neophytes, amount- 
ing in distribution to $6,000. When the Mission was secularized I 
delivered to the mayor-domo then in charge some $20,000 worth of 
cloth and other articles which the store-house contained. 

" The church of the Mission of San Jose was neatly adorned, 
and well provided with vestments and other religious articles. Thirty 
musicians served in the choir, and they had a very neat dress for feast 
days. 

" Of the Mission of Santa Clara, we can say the same more or 
less. 



48o 



STATE OF THE MISSIONS IN l8' 



"The other Missions, called the 'Northern,' though having been 
already secularized, were in utter bankruptcy, and the same can be 
affirmed for the most part of those of the south, down to San Diego ; 
for it was observed that as long as the Missions were in the hands of 
the missionaries everything was abundant ; but as soon as they passed 
into the hands of laymen everything went wrong, till eventually com- 
plete ruin succeeded, and all was gone. Yet, we cannot say that the 
ambition of those men was the cause, since, though the government 
in the space of four years, divided seven ranches to private individuals 
— -the smallest of a league and a half — yet in spite of this cutting off 
of part of my Mission lands, the Mission was every day progressing 
more and more, 

" We have not to attribute the destruction of these establishments 
to rapacity ; for though we can presume that something was taken, 
this was not the principal agent of destruction ; but the blunder was 
made in their enterprises and the high fees paid to the chief steward 
and other salaried men, etc. 

" The government of Mexico, up to the year 1830, acknowledged 
a debt in favor of these Missions of over $400,000, without counting 
oiher minor debts. Finally, we have to acknowledge that a manifest 
punishment from God was the cause of the destruction of the Mis- 
sions, since theft alone could not accomplish it and the subsidy given to 
the government would not affect them. On the contrary, left to the 
priests, the Missions would have prospered, and other establishments 
still more opulent would have been erected in the Tulares, even with 
out any protection from the government, and deprived of the subsidy 
of the Pious Fund of $400,000, if the revolution of Spain in the year 
1808 and that of Mexico in 18 10 had not put an end to the prosperity 
of the missionaries. If zealous missionaries had been left amongst 
the savage tribes roaming through this vast territory, from the Sierra 
Nevada to the Coast Mountains, called then by the priests ' Tulares,' 
all would have been converted to Christianity, and would not have 
perished, as we see them now. 

" I was able to save only a small relic of these tribes during the 
pestilence of 1833, in which I collected together some 600 Indians. 
I would have saved more during the small-pox epidemic of 1839, but 
my Mission had already been secularized, and I had no resources. I 
could do nothing for the Indians, who were like boys of one hundred 
years. It is only with liberality you can draw them towards you ; give 






THE MISSION OF SAN DIEGO. 48 1 

them ])lenty to eat and clothes in abundance, and they will soon be. 
come your friends, and you can then conduct them to religion, form 
them to good manners, and teach them civilized habits. 

" Do you want to know who were the cause of the ruin of these 
Missions ? As I was not only a witness but a victim of the sad events 
which caused their destruction, I have tried rather to shut my eyes 
that I might not see the evil, and close my ears to prevent hearing the 
innumerable wrongs which these establishments had suffered. My 
poor neophytes did their part, in their own way, to try and diminish 
my sorrow and anguish." 

On the Feast of our Lady of Mount Carmel, July 
16, 1769, was founded at San Diego the first Mission 
in Upper CaHfornia. Thomas' Memoirs (already 
quoted) contains the translation of an important letter, 
which throws some light upon the matter. So remark- 
able is the event that the letter, dated July 3, 1769, 
addressed by the Father- President of the Franciscan 
Missionaries to his future biographer. Father Palou, 
will, without doubt, be read with deep interest : 

"My Dear Friend: — Thank God I arrived the day before yes- 
terday, the first of the month, at this port of San Diego, truly a fine 
one, and not without reason called famous. Here I found those who 
had set out before me, both by sea and land, except those who have 
died. The brethren. Fathers Crispi, Biscaino, Parron and Gomez, 
are here with myself, and all are quite well, thank God. Here are 
also the two vessels, but the San Carlos without sailors, all having 
died of the scurvy, except two. The San Antonio, although she 
sailed a month and a half later, arrived twenty days before the San 
Carlos, losing on the voyage eight sailors. In consequence of this 
loss, it has been resolved that the San Antonio shall return to San 
Bias, to fetch sailors for herself and for the San Carlos. 

" The causes of the delay of the San Carlos were : first, lack of 
water, owing to the casks being bad, which, together with bad water 
obtained on the coast, occasioned sickness among the crew ; and sec- 
ondly, the error which all were in respecting the situation of this port. 
They supposed it to be thirty-three or thirty-four degrees north lati- 
tude, some saying one and some the other, and strict orders were 

31 



482 THE MISSION OF SAN DIEGO. 

given to Captain Villa and the rest to keep out in the open sea till 
they arrived at the thirty-fourth degree, and then to make the shore 
in search of the port. As, however, the port in reality lies in thirty- 
two degrees thirty-four minutes, according to the observations that 
have been made, they went much beyond it, thus making the voyage 
much longer than was necessary. The people got daily worse from 
the cold and the bad water, and they must all have perished if they 
had not discovered the port about the time they did. For they were 
quite unable to launch the boat to» procure more water, or to do any- 
thing whatever for their preservation. Father Fernando did everything 
in his power to assist the sick ; and although he arrived much reduced 
in flesh, he did not become ill, and is now well. We have not suf- 
fered hunger or other privations, neither have the Indians who came 
with us ; all arrived well and healthy. 

" The tract through which we passed is generally very good land, 
with plenty of water ; and there, as well as here, the country is neither 
rocky nor overrun with brush-wood. There are, however, many hills, 
but they are composed of earth. The road has been in some places 
good, but the greater part bad. About half-way, the valleys and 
banks of rivulets began to be delightful. We found vines of a large size, 
and in some cases quite loaded with grapes ; we also found an abun- 
dance of roses, which appeared to be like those of Castile. In fine, 
it is a good country, and very different from old California. 

" We have seen Indians in immense numbers, and all those on 
this coast of the Pacific contrive to make a good subsistence on vari- 
ous seeds, and by fishing. The latter they carry on by means of 
rafts or canoes, made of tule (bullrush) with which they go a great 
way to sea. They are very civil. All the males, old and young, go 
naked ; the women, however, and the female children, are decently 
covered from their breasts downward. We found on our journey, as 
well as in the place where we stopped, that they treated us with as much 
confidence and good-will as if they had known us all their lives. But 
when we offered them any of our victuals, they always refused them. 
All they cared for was cloth, and only for something of this sort 
would they exchange their fish or whatever else they had. During the 
whole march we found hares, rabbits, some deer, and a multitude of 
berendos (a kind of a wild goat). 

" I pray God may preserve your health and life many years. 

" From this port and intended Mission of San Diego, in North 
California, third July, 1769. 

"Francis Junipero Serra." 



CHAPTER LIV. 

First Experience of a Novice at Tea Drinking — Goods for the Missionaries on the 
Hawaiian Islands — Trade between the Islands and China — Loss of the Brig 
"Griffin" — A Maritime Race from Santa Barbara to Monterey — Wines Shipped 
to California in Small Quantities to Improve in Flavor by the Sea Voyage — • 
Mrs. Paty presented with a Cask of Wine by Don Louis Vigne — She Ships it 
to Honolulu with the Same Object — How the Bulk of the Wine was Dimin- 
ished without the Knowledge of its Owner. 

Shortly after the Missions were first instituted in 
California, the rancheros, in a small way, commenced 
to establish their ranchos, getting grants from the gov- 
ernment beyond the Mission lands, and obtaining a 
few cattle from the Fathers. Many of them were igno- 
rant, uncultivated, and quite unused to the luxuries of 
life. A man of this kind one day visited the Mission 
of San Luis Obispo, and was kindly received by the 
good Father. 

Durina: the visit a servant was directed to bring- in 

o o 

some refreshments. A lunch was served, and, among 
other things, a steaming pot of tea. A cup was set be- 
fore the ranchero, and he was invited to help himself. 
Never having drank any tea, he was puzzled how to 
proceed, but presently lifting off the lid of the teapot, 
he dipped the spoon in, and, taking out some of the 
leaves, placed them in his cup, added sugar, and began 
to eat the new dish ; whereupon the good Father kindly 
and politely explained that the tea was to be drank, and 
not to be eaten. 



484 SUPPLIES FOR HAWAIIAN MISSIONARIES. 

In 1842, the "Don Quixote" arrived at Honolulu, 
and found there the beautiful clipper-built ship "Con- 
gress," from New York. The vessel was engaged in 
the China trade, plying regularly between New York 
and China. On that trip she had brought supplies for 
the missionaries, of whom there were a good many at the 
Sandwich Islands and at other islands in the Pacific 
ocean. 

The Missions in New York and Boston, in those 
days, sent out large quantities of supplies, including 
books and papers, from their headquarters, to Hono- 
lulu, that being a distributing point. I have known 
vessels to come there with goods for the missionaries 
exclusively. The "Congress," after discharging, 
waited at Honolulu some time before sailing for China, 
partly by reason of the typhoons which prevailed in the 
China seas at that season of the year, and which her 
captain wished to avoid ; and partly to receive expected 
advices from the owners in New York, by the way of 
Mexico. 

The speediest mode of communication between 
the United States and the Pacific islands was by vessel 
from New York, or other Atlantic ports, to Vera Cruz; 
thence across, by mule conveyance to Mazatlan or San 
Bias; letters being addressed to the care of the United 
States Consuls at those seaports. 

Vessels were constantly going and coming be- 
tween the Mexican coast and Honolulu, being owned 
in the latter place and employed in the China trade. 



AN AQUATIC RACE. 485 

They brought cargoes of goods to the Islands ; dis- 
posed of a portion of them there, and went thence to 
San Bias or Mazatlan with the remainder. The car- 
goes were purchased with special reference to the Mex- 
ican trade of the interior, whither they were sent from 
the coast. The consuls forwarded by these vessels 
such letters and dispatches as they had received from 
the Atlantic side, and frequent communication was thus 
had. In 1834 or 1835 the brig "Griffin," Captain 
William C. Little, originally a Boston vessel, was en- 
gaged in trade between China, Honolulu and the coast 
of Mexico. She was on a voyage from Honolulu to 
Mazatlan, with a partial cargo of China goods, but did 
not reach Mexico. She was never heard of more. All 
the hides shipped from California to the Islands were 
re-shipped to Boston. 

The captain of the ship " Congress," having heard 
of the feats of the " Don Quixote" as a fast sailer, was 
anxious to have a trial of speed, as he prided himself 
upon the sailing qualities of his own vessel. There- 
fore, when he was ready for sea, he waited a few days 
for the bark to discharge and take return cargo of mis- 
cellaneous goods for California. 

The two vessels came out of the harbor of Hono- 
lulu together. Great interest was manifested in this 
race. When we left the town the houses and every 
little elevation were covered with people, who had 
gathered to witness the contest. The " Don Quixote" 
being well known, and having a history as a fast ves- 
sel, was the favorite. 



4^6 AN AQUATIC RACE. 

Our bark passed out first, and after we had got 
fairly clear of the harbor, we lay to, to allow the pilot 
to go ashore. He and his crew exchanged parting sal- 
utations with us, standing up in the boat, taking off 
their hats and cheering. Just then the "Congress" 
came up with us. We loosened and spread out our 
studding sails, and the " Congress" did the same, until 
both vessels had all their canvass to the breeze, sailing 
gaily away. Looking back we saw the crowds on shore, 
waving us farewell, until they were lost to view in the 
distance. 

The two vessels kept pretty near for some time, 
but the "Don Quixote " gained, little by little, upon 
her rival, until, when twenty or thirty miles out to sea, 
she was fairly ahead. As night came on, the vessels 
parted, each on its own course. 

Captain Paty kept everything about the bark in 
the neatest condition. It may be said in general 
that the captains who came to the California coast in 
those days were gentlemanly, intelligent and well-read. 
Each took pride and delight in his own vessel, thinking 
her the finest that sailed the ocean, and was always 
ready, when opportunity offered, for a trial of speed. 
The " Euphemia" was an exception ; we never boasted 
of her sailing qualities. 

In 1842, the "Alert" and the "Don Quixote" 
happened to be in Monterey, and were ready to leave 
at the same time. When this was noticed, much in- 
terest was manifested in the circumstance. They had 



BOLD NAVIGATORS 487 

to make many tacks to get out of the bay, and Captain 
Phelps of the "Alert," did his best to crowd the bark, 
but the former was really no match for the latter, which 
easily took the lead. During this trial, Captain Paty 
ordered the chain cable moved from the bow to mid- 
ships, and the sailors shifted it with great alacrity, en- 
tering into the spirit of the occasion as sailors always 
do when their own vessel is put to a test. I have wit- 
nessed several ocean races ; the great enthusiasm of the 
crews at such times was noticeable, the sailors being 
proud of their vessel, which was their home. They 
were as much attached to it as landsmen to their domi- 
ciles and surroundings. 

In the summer of 1844, the "Admittance" and 
" Don Quixote" were both trading on the coast, and 
were at Santa Barbara together. They were ready to 
leave on the same day, both bound to Monterey. The 
captains and supercargoes of the vessels, and their 
friends, arranged that there should be a trial of speed 
between them. The " Admittance" was a good sailer 
and a beautiful ship. Captain Peterson, her master, 
being a first-class navigator, the vessels were evenly 
matched. They were obliged to beat all the way up 
against the prevailing head-winds. The " Don Quixote" 
anchored at Monterey twenty-four hours in advance of 
the other. Captain Paty as a bold navigator, with good 
judgment had no superior. He took chances which a 
more cautious captain would not have dared to take. 
His plan was to sleep in the daytime, allowing his mates 



488 BOLD NAVIGATORS. 

to sail the vessel when everything was clear, and at 
night to take charge himself. 

As he understood the coast thoroughly, he kept in- 
shore as much as possible after sunset, to get the ad- 
vantage of the land breeze, which prevailed nearly all 
night, but extended only a few miles from shore. He 
took short tacks to get the breeze, while Captain Pet- 
erson kept much further out to sea, and lost the ad- 
vantage. Before the vessels left Santa Barbara, there 
were numerous bets made by the officers and their 
friends on shore, as to the result of the trial, mostly of 
wines, cigars and small articles, no money being wagered. 

All the early vessels that came out from Boston to 
trade on the coast had on board small quantities of 
choice wine casked, belonging to their owners, usually 
sherry and maderia, "put under the special charge of the 
captain, simply to make the voyage to California and 
back, and not to be touched on the way, it being sent 
for the improvement it received on the voyage through 
continuous agitation. 

In 1842, Mrs, Paty was presented by Don Luis 
Vigne with a cask of California wine, while the captain's 
bark was at San Pedro, and she had it put on board for 
the benefit of the sea travel, until such time as the vessel 
should reach Honolulu, when the intention was to have 
it bottled. 

Captain Paty and his officers were accustomed to 
a little wine at dinner ; and after tasting the Vigne 
wine, they found it so agreeable that they could not re- 



BOLD NAVIGATORS. 489 

sist drinkino^ of it while on the voyage. The good lady, 
who was aboard, never suspected it was her wine that 
was disappearing day by day, she herself being a par- 
ticipant in the abstraction. Captain Paty and I pre- 
sented Commodore Jones, at Monterey, with some of 
this identical wine, as being superior to anything else 
that could be procured for the purpose. The vessel 
reaching Honolulu, Mrs. Paty inquired for the cask 
and was much chagrined to find that the contents had 
wholly disappeared. 



CHAPTER LV. 

Lieutenant Bartlett of the " Portsmouth " appointed First- Alcalde at Verba Buena 
— George Hyde appointed Second- Alcalde — He resigns the Alcaldeship after a 
Two Days' Service, and is appointed First-Alcalde by Captain Hull — Resigns 
a Second Time — Bartlett the first Elected Alcalde — He beats Bob Ridley for 
the Office, badly — Bartlett is ordered on Board his Vessel, and Hyde again 
becomes Alcalde — -The name of Verba Buena changed to San Francisco by 
Governor Kearney — Petty Charges in regard to a Land Grant and Alleged 
Changes in Map and Survey of Lots — Don Jose Ramon Carillo Encounters 
a Bear in the Woods — A Fight Ensues — Carillo Slays his Antagonist — Don 
Jose Ramon has Further Experience with a Bear — Don Jose Ramon Carillo 
Waylaid and Shot Dead by an Unknown Assassin — Dona Encarnacion Peralta 
Witnesses the Capture of a Bear. 

Soon after the United States flag was hoisted on 
shore at the port of San Francisco, July, 1846, Captain 
Montgomery selected Lieutenant Bartlett, of the 
" Portsmouth" to act as first-alcalde of Yerba Buena. 
He was capable, speaking the Spanish language, which 
was a great advantage. George Hyde was appointed 
at the same time as second-alcalde, he having arrived 
here as secretary to Commodore Stockton, in the frigate 
"Congress." He had joined that vessel for the pur- 
pose of coming to California. Mr. Hyde was a Penn- 
sylvanian, of wealthy family and of the highest respect- 
ability. Commodore Biddle was from the same State, 
and their families were intimate. When the commo- 
dore visited Yerba Buena in 1847, he remembered 
Hyde at once, and they were on very friendly terms. 
George Hyde retained the office of alcalde only two 
days, and then resigned. 



FIRST-ALCALDE GEORGE HYDE. 49 1 

When Bartlett was made prisoner by the CaHfor- 
nians, Hyde was appointed in his place by Captain Hull, 
in December, 1846; and held that position until Bart- 
lett's release and return, when the latter again resumed 
the alcaldeship. 

There was an election for alcalde in October, 1846, 
in which Bartlett, who still held the office, was a candi- 
date, with Bob Ridley the opposing aspirant. The latter 
was badly beaten by Bartlett who was elected by a hand- 
some majority. The popular voice of the people was 
then expressed for the first time, under the American 
system, since the change of flag in the department. 

Prior to 1841, Jacob P. Leese obtained a grant of 
two leagues of land, from the government of Califor- 
nia, known as Canada Guadalupe, yVisitacion, y Rodeo 
Viejo, bounded as follows : On the east by the bay of 
San Francisco, on the south the San Bruno Mountains 
or Buri Buri rancho, on the west by the rancho of San 
Miguel, owned by Don Jose Jesus Noe, and on the 
north by the rancho of Dona Carmel Cibrian. In 1841 
Robert Ridley was granted by Governor Alvarado, 
four or six leagues of land on the north side of the bay 
of San Francisco in Sonoma district (now Sonoma 
county.) In 1841, Leese deeded to Ridley his two 
league grant. In return, Ridley conveyed to Leese his 
four or six leagues of land, in consideration of the 
other conveyance to him. It was a barter trade be- 
tween the parties and the only transaction of the char- 
acter — exchanging land grants — that ever occurred to 



492 FIRST-ALCALDE GEORGE HYDE. 

my knowledge in California, under the Mexican regime. 
There is a street in San Francisco named after Robert 
Ridley. 

In 1847, when George Hyde was alcalde of San 
Francisco much jealousy existed and there were many 
bickerings between rival land owners, which caused an 
idle charge, that was subsequently proved entirely un- 
founded, to be made against Mr. Hyde, of having, in 
his official capacity, tampered with the map and survey 
of the city. The alcalde demanded an investigation, 
and by order of Colonel Mason, then acting as military 
governor of the department, the town council was di- 
rected to take evidence and report on the subject. 

The commission met on the ist or 2d of November, 
1847, and organized by appointing R. A. Parker, chair- 
man. On motion of E. P. Jones, Mr. Harrison, a clerk 
in the custom-house and commissary's office, was ap- 
pointed to take down the evidence. The first and only 
witness called was one Grayson, also a clerk in the com- 
missary department. He was sworn, and testified that 
he knew who had made the defacement on the map, 
and that it was the alcalde, Mr. Hyde. On cross-ex- 
amination, he stated that he did not see the alcalde do 
it, but presumed that he must have done it, because the 
map belonged to the alcalde's office. This was all the 
testimony taken on the charge. The clerk was directed 
to make and keep a fair copy, or report, of the proceed- 
ings. 

On the following evening the commission met 
again, when the committee preferring the charge ad- 



FIRST-ALCADE GEORGE HVDE. 493 

mittedthatit had no further evidence. Mr. Hyde then 
demanded that the evidence, as taken, be read over be- 
fore closing the proceedino^s. The clerk objected to 
this as unnecessary. He was required to do so, how- 
ever, when it was discovered that he had omitted the 
entire cross-examination. When asked his reason for 
the omission, he alleged that he did not think it was of 
any consequence. Sionificantly requested to step down 
and out, he did so promptly. Alcalde Hyde proposed 
to introduce testimony from the records of the court 
the object of which would develop itself, as the evidence 
was read, and which would probably aid in showing- 
who did tamper with the map and surveys. 

The hearing occupied three evenings, when it be- 
came apparent who the interested parties were and what 
the motive was for making a change in the lots and sur- 
vey — that it was work which originated in Mr. Alcalde 
Bryant's office to accommodate certain individuals and 
for whose benefit it was done ; and that Mr. Hyde had 
nothing whatever to do with the business. The expos- 
ure resulted in a row among the parties concerned, 
which was ended by the commission's adjourning until 
the next evening. 

The committee making the charge failed to again 
appear. It could not be prevailed on to meet and it 
did not meet the commission until the 4th day of De- 
cember, a month afterwards. At that date it met to 
accommodate Mr. Sam. Brannan, who was the author 
of a second and different charge, to wit : that the al- 



494 A HORSE RACE IN 1 848. 

calde had granted a lot to other persons, which had 
been promised by his predecessor, Bryant, to Mr. Bran- 
nan's mother-in-law. Alcalde Hyde denied any knowl- 
edge of such promise. He asserted that this was the 
first he had heard of it, and, if true, the act of conferring 
the grant by him was unintentional. Mr. Hyde's clerk, 
who had also been clerk under Mr, Bryant, testified 
that he had recorded the grant referred to and had 
brought to Alcalde Hyde for his signature both the 
grant and record, which were signed. He had not in- 
formed Mr. Hyde of the fact of Alcalde Bryant's prom- 
ise, because he had forgotten it. He could not say 
whether Alcalde Hyde knew of it or not. Mr. Bran- 
nan was satisfied ; and declared that Alcalde Hyde had 
been entirely vindicated. 

The last proceedings occupied but one evening, 
and the commission adjourned. The committee that 
had preferred the first charges never appeared again, 
notwithstanding frequent calls and solicitations of Mr. 
Hyde and of the board of commissioners. 

Affairs ran along from December 4th to the first 
day of March, 1848, when a horse race occurred. Un- 
der the excitement of the occasion, some of the citizens, 
deeply interested by heavy betting on the result, fell 
into personal altercation which terminated in two of 
them, Leidesdorff and McDougal, being bound over 
by Alcalde Hyde to keep the peace. Therefrom grew 
subsequent proceedings, embracing the application to 
Governor Mason for the removal of Mr. Hyde from 



GOVERNOR MASON. 495 

office. It was a secretly concocted affair, not heard of 
until the reply of the Governor reached San F'rancisco, 
a couple of weeks later. Leidesdorff swore vengeance 
against Hyde, and took that method of effecting it. He 
and E. P. Jones, an unscrupulous person, secretly ad- 
dressed a letter to Governor Mason, wording it in a de- 
ceptive manner, which influenced Mr. W. D. M. How- 
ard and Mr. Robert A. Parker to sign it. The latter 
were under the impression that it merely asked for 
the removal of Alcalde Hyde, on account of the alleged 
arbitrary act of placing Mr. Leidesdorff under arrest. 
Mr. Hyde, considering himself injured by these secret 
assaults, sent in his resignation, to take effect April ist, 
and at the same time apprised the governor of the facts 
relative to the horse race altercation and the meetingfof 
the town council, adding that it had held no session 
as a board of commissioners since December 4, 1847. 
The governor asked the four gentlemen who had 
signed the communication for a report of the evidence 
before the commissioners as to the charges, taken in 
accordance with his previous directions. Messrs, How- 
ard and Parker, finding themselves seriously entrapped, 
declined to associate further with Jones and Leides- 
dorff. The two last named gentlemen, concluding it 
would be better for them also to withdraw from their 
compromising position, asked the governor to consider 
their letter as private correspondence, instead of relating 
to official matters. Thus, so far as the council was con- 
cerned, the entire affair had an insignificant ending. C. 



496 MR. Hyde's influence. 

L. Ross, a member of the self-appointed citizens' com- 
mittee, represented a ring composed of several persons 
who coached the entire proceedings under the charges. 
As matters developed, it was soon known that malice 
was at the bottom of the whole business. 

Mr. Hyde, at the time he sought to influence the 
governor to postpone the sale of the beach and water 
lots, also pointed out to him the necessity of recon- 
structing of the ayuntamiento, or Town Council, to 
which the district of San Francisco was entitled. In 
view of the sale leaving a large balance of funds on 
hand, ample security ought to be provided for its safety ; 
and the employment of these moneys for various im- 
provements ought not to be left to the disposal of the 
alcalde alone. A safe and commodious jail was a ne- 
cessity urgently demanded, also the erection of a school 
house. Various other suggestions were offered by Mr. 
Hyde. He secured the appointment of T. M, Leav- 
enworth as second-alcalde, and obtained a promise that 
a Court of First Instance should be provided for the 
district as soon as practicable. 

Bartlett continued in office until the arrival of 
Commodore Biddle, in June, 1847, when he was or- 
dered on board his vessel for duty as Lieutenant. Mr. 
Hyde was then appointed alcalde by General Kearney 
and held the office until April, 1848. 

When General Kearney became military governor 
here in 1847, he changed the name of Yerba Buena to 
San Francisco. 



COMBAT WITH A BEAR. 497 

Don Jose Ramon Carillo, before mentioned as a 
distinguished bear hunter, notwithstanding his fondness 
for the exciting sport, was himself as gentle as a lamb ; 
kind and amiable. There always appeared on his face 
whether in conversation or not, a peculiar smile, which 
indicated his good nature. On one occasion he was 
out in the woods, with his companions, in Sonoma 
county, where he lived, and they saw a bear a little dis- 
tance off. He proposed to the others to go on foot 
and fight the animal alone, to which they assented. 

He had a large sharp knife, and taking the nio- 
chillo from his saddle he held it in his left hand as a 
shield, and thus accoutered approached the bear, which 
immediately showed fight. The combat began. Carillo, 
as the bear charged upon him and attempted to seize him, 
held up his shield to repel the assault, and with his 
knife in the other hand made skillful thrusts at the ani- 
mal, with telling effect. Before long the creature lay 
dead before him. 

On another occasion he was riding alone through 
the woods, when, seeing a bear a little distance away, 
he went after him on his horse, prepared to throw his 
reata and lasso him. That part of the country was over- 
grown with chamisal, so that the ground was a good deal 
hidden. The chase had hardly commenced when the 
bear plunged suddenly into a ditch, perhaps five or six- 
feet deep. Before Carillo could check his horse, the 
animal and himself plunged headlong into it also. He 
immediately distangled himself from his horse, and, 

J2 



498 COMBAT WITH A BEAR. 

while doing so. the bear showed signs of retreating. 
Under circumstances of the kind, a bear is apt to lose 
all his courage and is not inclined to fight, and in this 
instance the suddeness of the shock seemed to have 
knocked all the savageness out of him. 

Don Jose Ramon instantly took in the situation ; and 
saw that in such close quarters with the animal, with 
no room to move about to use his reata or otherwise 
defend himself, his situation would be a dangerous 
one should the courage of the bear revive ; and that his 
safety was in allowing him to get away. The bear 
commenced to climb up the steep sides of the pit, where it 
was very difficult to get any kind of a hold, and Carillo, 
with wonderful presence of mind, placed his strong 
arms under the brute's hind-quarters and, exerting all 
his strength, gave him a good lift. The bear having 
the good sense to rightly appreciate this friendly assist- 
ance, struggled forward, got out, and scampered away, 
leaving the horse and his master to climb out as best 
they could. 

In 1850, Don Jose Ramon Carillo married the 
widow of Don Tomas Yorba ; and in 185 i, as I was 
about leaving San Diego, I sold to him my furniture 
there, which he added to the establishment at Santa 
Ana where he lived with his wife. In 1861, as he was 
riding towards his home one night some one waylaid 
him on the road and shot him dead. He was found 
there as he fell. The perpetrator of the crime was 
never discovered. 



COMBAT WITH A BEAR. 499 

In 1836 or '2>7y I^on Jose Martinez started from the 
mansion at Pinole to go out for a little sport at bear 
hunting, with several companions. This rancho is sit- 
uated in a deep valley, with high hills on either side. 
When they had got some little distance from the house 
they fancied they heard a bear not far away, and Don 
Jose rode off ahead of the others, up the side of the hill, 
and suddenly came close upon a bear, himself unpre- 
pared for an attack. The bear made a dash at him, 
aVid with his claw raked him down the leg, ripping his 
trousers, tearing off the shoe and stocking and just 
giving the foot a scratch. As the horse pressed for- 
ward, the Don held on to his saddle with all his might, 
to save himself from being torn to pieces. The 
strength of the bear's stroke having been spent upon 
the clothing, which gave way, the rider passed on and 
escaped. His companions soon coming up, the crea- 
ture was speedily lassoed and killed. 

Dona Encarnacion, the widow of one of the Peraltas, 
the present wife of Don Manuel Ayala, resides at Tem- 
escal, where she has a beautiful home, one of the hand- 
somest in the country. In 1840, while she was Mrs. 
Peralta, she lived a quarter of a mile from her present 
residence in a north-easterly direction. About where 
her home is now she had a large vegetable garden, or 
milpa, and cultivated watermelons. One day in the 
month of August, she walked down from her house at 
midday to look at her garden and see how her melons 
and vegetables were getting on. As she was about to 



5O0 COMBAT WITH A BEAR. 

return to the house, just as she had left the garden, she 
saw a short distance off five or six horsemen, among 
them her husband, gathered about an immense bear 
which they had just lassoed. It was the matanza sea- 
son, and the animal had been attracted to the spot by 
the smell of the meat. He had come down from the 
mountains to feast upon the carcasses of the slaught- 
ered cattle, but, contrary to the usual custom, had 
boldly approached in the broad light of day instead of 
at night. He was a monster, the largest that had ever 
been seen there, strong and savage, having broken one 
of the reatas. It required the strength of all the men 
to manao^e and hold him. Dona Encarnacion was a 
good deal startled at the sight of the struggling beast. 
Her husband made a motion to her to go back to the 
milpa, which she did, staying until the bear was fully 
secured and subdued. This was in the open country, 
with no concealment of woods or shrubbery. 



CHAPTER LVI. 

A Voyage projected by the Author to Callao, Peru, with a Valuable Cargo— How it 
was Frustrated — Supercargo Sherman makes a Judicious Investment in Goods 
at Honolulu, and Returns with them in the "Nick cf Time"— The 
"Euphemia" Sold to the City of San Francisco— The Vessel was Noted 
for Profitable Ventures and Good Luck— Major Reading, the Author and 
Others Embark in a Flour Speculation to Oregon— The Vessel Employed 
Reaches her Point of Destination ; Secures a Cargo, but is Frozen on the 
Columbia River— The Brooklyn Arrives from New York in 1846, with 230 
Passengers — Sam Brannan was on Board, at the Head of an Organized Mili- 
tary Company— It was their Intention to Hoist the American Flag, but they 
were a Little too Late — Many of the New Comers were Mechanics, and the 
Hum of Industry was Soon Heard — Mr Brannan Extolled as La3dng the Comer- 
Stone of San Francisco's Future Prosperity— Vessels Arrive by the Dozen 
from all Parts of the World— The Author Purchases a Sample of Scale Gold 
Dust from a Couple of Miners— Its Purity Doubted — It Stands the Acid Test 
— Gold Weighing Scales in Demand — Arrival of the First Gold-Seekers— A 
Broadside Salute from the Pacific Squadron then in Port— Alfred Robinson, 
First Agent of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company — He Still Survives 
Beyond the Age of Four Score Years— A Night Alarm— Safety Sought by 
Frightened Women— Ruffianly Work of the " Hounds "—Mr. Brannan Takes 
the Lead in a Movement Against the Desperadoes— Patrols Organized and 
Parade the Streets for Weeks— The "Plounds" when Identified, were 
Arrested, Ironed and Placed on Board the Ship " Warren to Await Trial — 
Hall McAllister Appeared Against Them— A Tribute to McAllister— Mr. 
Maynard Makes a Survey which Demonstrates the Possibilfty of Navigating 
the Sacramento River with a Vessel of 600 or 800 Tons IJurden — He Goes East 
and Forms a Syndicate which Purchases the " Senator "—When the Vessel 
Arrives in the Bay Mr. Brannan as Spokesman of a Partnership of Four, 
Offered $250,000 in Gold Dust for the "Senator," Which was Rejected— 
The Vessel not for Sale — The "Senator" Leaves a Memorable Record. 

After my return to the coast, with the brig " Eu- 
phemia," in March, 1846, an idea came into my mind, 
that in the course of business events, I would prepare 



502 PROJECTED VOYAGE TO CALLAO. 

a voyage for Callao, Peru, with the " Euphemia" or 
some other vessel, carrying a cargo of tallow for that 
market. In this I was inspired by the big gains of 
vessels that were fitted out from Callao with assorted 
merchandise for the coast of California. In return for 
goods the vessels brought here, they went back to 
Peru with tallow as a remittance, which was sold at one 
hundred per cent, profit over the cost of the same here. 
In the fall of 1847 I commenced getting ready for the 
new field of operations. At Saucelito I deposited the 
tallow collected from debtors to myself around the bay, 
and from vessels trading on the coast, in exchange for 
hides. In December following, the brig sailed for San 
Diego, to touch at intermediate ports for collections of 
more tallow. I had contracted with Don Eulojio de Celis 
for a lot of tallow he had stored at San Diego, to make 
up a full cargo. Before the brig reached Monterey, 
she encountered a southeast gale of wind, and sprung a 
leak. In the course of a week, a courier arrived from 
Monterey with a letter from R. M. Sherman, who was 
supercargo, informing me that they had arrived there, 
and that the vessel was in a leaky condition. The bark 
" Natalia," of Valparaiso, was leaving for Monterey at 
the time the bad news reached me, and I took passage 
on her. The brig returned to San Francisco ; the voy- 
age to Callao having been abandoned for lack of a ves- 
sel to convey the cargo. Had she been favored with 
her usual luck, the venture would have been carried 
out, with a prospect of a profitable result for her own- 



TRADE WITH MAZATLAN. 503 

ers. The proceeds of the tallow would hav'^e been in- 
vested in ofeneral merchandise, as Callao was then a 
depository for goods from Europe and the United States. 
But, the adage, " Man proposes, God disposes," proved 
true in this instance, and the vessel was sent to Hono 
lulu for repairs, with her cargo of tallow, Mr. Sherman 
as supercargo. The tallow was sold there at a loss. 

While the " Euphemia" was being overhauled and 
put in order, Sherman was busy buying a return cargo, 
and his selections proved suitable for the mines, which 
were discovered during his absence. The " Euphemia" 
arrived at San Francisco just in the nick of time, in 
June, 1848, a few days after the first appearance here 
of the gold from Sacramento. 

On the evening of Mr. Sherman's arrival, Mr. \V. 
D. M. Howard invited eight of his intimate friends 
(among the number the writer) to partake of a fine din- 
ner, in honor of and to welcome Sherman's return. It 
was in the early hours of morning that this group of 
young argonauts retired to their homes, after an hilar- 
ious and enjoyable feast. 

In the fall of 1849, the " Euphemia" was chartered 
by \V. D. M. Howard, Hiram Grimes, Joseph P. 
Thompson, Eulojio de Celis and myself, for a voyage 
to Mazatlan for Mexican goods, with a capital of $45,- 
000 in gold dust. Celis furnished $15,000, and went 
as supercargo; Howard and myself, $10,000 each, and 
the other two of the company $5,000 apiece. At my 
suggestion, Howard and I called on board the flag-ship 



504 VOYAGE TO PORTLAND FOR FLOUR. 

" Ohio," and asked Commodore Jones to give the 
" Euphemia" an American flag, instead of the Hawai- 
ian, which he readily did. The occasion of the in- 
terchange of flags was celebrated with sparkling wine 
on board the brig, by a large company of friends, 
including Commodore Jones. The voyage to Mexico 
proved to be a success to those interested in the enter- 
prise. 

Sometime in 1850 I sold the "Euphemia" to the 
city of San Francisco, to be used as a prison brig, and 
she was moored alongside Long Wharf for a time. 

Thus ended the career of one of the luckiest ves- 
sels to her owners that I have known in my long 
business experience. She was homely and a slow 
sailer, but carried more than double her tonnage in 
freight. On her first voyage to California she cleared 
$30,000 the day I obtained the receipt for the duties 
and Custom House permission to trade up and down 
the coast. Her numerous voyages to Honolulu and 
San Francisco were very prosperous financially, and 
during my ownership only one accident occured to the 
" Euphemia." 

The "Joven Guipuzcoana" was owned by Mr. 
Aguirre, as I have before stated. In the beginning of 
December, 1848, Major Reading, of the firm of Hens- 
ley, Reading & Co., of Sacramento, was in my store 
one morning. The subject of conversation between 
the Major and myself on that occasion was the high 
price of flour that ruled in the market. Reading sug- 



WALLED IN BY ICE. 505 

gested oretting up a voyage to Oregon for a cargo of 
flour. I replied, "Yes, I have a vessel in port already 
manned, belonging to Aguire." The Major wanted to 
know how soon she could sail. I said, " Right away, 
as she is already prepared for sea." Reading asked how 
much money would be required for the speculation. I 
replied, "$15,000, in this manner: Hensley, Reading 
& Co. should pay in $5,000 — Aguirre and myself $10,- 
000." I then asked Reading, who would go supercargo, 
and suggested one of his partners, Jacob R. Snyder. 

In two days from that tinie, the bark was on her 
way to Portland, with a spanking breeze at her stern 
from the southeast. She arrived at the Columbia river 
and went to Portland in remarkably quick time. 
Three or four days after her arrival; Mr. Snyder suc- 
ceeded in buying a full cargo of flour for the vessel, 
at reasonable prices. While she was getting ready to 
start on the return voyage the Columbia river froze 
over, and the vessel remained from December, 1848, 
to April, 1849, walled in by ice. During the time the 
bark was detained, many vessels arrived from Chili 
with flour. The consequence was, when our flour 
reached here it had no price in the market. It was 
sent in the vessel to Sacramento, and jobbed out at fair 
prices, so that we lost no money, but made some profit. 

P. B. Reading was the Whig candidate for Gov- 
ernor of California, in the election of 1851, against 
John Bigler, the Democratic candidate for the same of- 
fice. Being a Whig, I voted for the former, who was 
defeated by Bigler. 



506 THE BRANNAN COLONISTS ARRIVE, 

The American flag was raised at Yerba Buena, by- 
Captain Montgomery, of the " Portsmouth," as before 
stated in July, 1846. 

The ship " Brooklyn," Captain Richardson, arrived 
from New York about the last of the same month. The 
vessel brought passengers to the number of two hun- 
dred and thirty, and I was the first aboard after she 
dropped anchor, to welcome the new comers to our 
embryo American town. It was on this occasion I met 
Sam. Brannan for the first time, who was a passenger. 
The " Brooklyn" came with an organized military com- 
pany, at the head of which was Brannan as its leader. 
They arrived a little too late for their object — 'to hoist 
our national standard ; as thegood work had already been 
accomplished by our squadron. 

Many of the new coiners pitched their tents on a 
lot of mine, on Washington street near Montgomery. 
These additions to our small village, proved to be de- 
sirable, as they were an industrious, hard-working and 
thrifty class of people, intelligent and sober. Among 
them were carpenters and house builders. After their 
arrival, the echoes of mechanics' hammers vibrated 
through the sand hills of Yerba Buena. From every 
direction in the village, the signs of progress under the 
change and that of the American system, became ap- 
parent. 

Soon after Brannan's arrival, he commenced busi- 
ness in a spirit of push and energy ; and at once mani- 
fested an interest in California's prosperity which he has 



THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 50/ 

assisted materiallyj to develop and in promoting her va- 
ried resources. He was always found at the front, 
with open purse, in any enterprise to forward the in- 
terest of the State of his adoption. If there is a man 
who is deserving of recognition from the State of Cali- 
fornia and the city of San Francisco, it is Sam. Bran- 
nan. He assisted to lay the corner-stone of the cicy's 
commercial greatness. 

After the discovery of gold, at Sutter's mill-race 
in May 1848, and the news had spread over the Pacific 
Ocean, vessels began to come in with merchandise, 
from Honolulu, Mazatlan, San Bias, Valparaiso, Callao, 
Chinese and other Pacific ports. 

By the time the first steamer arrived from Panama 
with eastern passengers, there were already anchored 
in the bay of San Francisco, quite a fleet of vessels of 
nearly all nations, which had come to receive their share 
of the newly discovered treasure, in exchange for goods, 
which were in much demand to supply the wants of 
those who had ofone in "Teat numbers to the mines 
from all portions of the department, and of the pas- 
sengers by vessels. In the month of June, 1848, two 
miners came to my store with fine scale gold dust. I had 
seen similar gold from the San Fernando mines in Los 
Angeles county. But withal I was in doubt as to the gen- 
uineness of the bright metal before me. The miners 
and myself called on James C. Ward, a neighboring 
merchant. He proved to be incompetent to de- 
termine whether it was gold or not. \Vc four then 



5o8 THE FIRST GOLD FROM THE PLACERS. 

went to Buckalew, a jeweller and watchmaker. Mr. 
Buckalew applied the aqua fortis, and at once pro- 
nounced the metal pure gold. I bought the dust, over 
one hundred dollars' worth, at sixteen dollars per ounce, 
from the two miners, and paid them half in coin and 
half in goods. 

This gold was the first that arrived in San Fran- 
cisco, and I was the first purchaser of the product of 
the mines. All merchants transacted an immense 
business, and there was no trouble in selling goods, 
if we had them to sell. The receipts of gold from 
the mines was so great, and the means of weighing it 
so limited, that we had trouble from the scarcity of 
scales. Buckalew being the only maker of scales was 
kept at work from morning till night manufacturing 
to fill orders. 

Gold and silver coin became very scarce in the 
market. The duties on goods from foreign ports, had 
to be paid in coin, and the merchants were unable to 
comply with the custom laws. An arrangement was 
made with the Collector of the Port, to receive gold 
dust on deposit from them, at ten dollars per ounce, 
for duties, redeemable at the end of sixty days with 
coin. Most of the gold pledged for duties was sold 
at auction by the government, at the expiration of the 
time, for about ten dollars per ounce, and less in some 
instances. This action of the government w'as a great 
hardship to the merchants, as they incurred a loss of 
six dollars for each ounce thus sold, and particularly 



THE FIRST SHIP LOAD OF GOLD-SEEKERS. 509 

when it was known at the Treasury Department in 
Washington, that the true value of the gold was from 
eighteen to twenty dollars per ounce, assayed and made 
into coin at the Mint in Philadelphia. 

David Carter, of Boston, in the summer of 1848, 
formed a copartnership with me, for carrying on com- 
mercial business, between California and the Eastern 
States. Mr. Carter left here in the fall of 1848, by 
way of Central America. He carried with him about 
thirty thousand dollars in gold dust, to be coined at 
the United States Mint above named, and it was the 
first gold coined at that time from California. I had 
a small interest in this gold shipment. 

One bright morning in February, 1849, the first 
steamer from New York arrived here from Panama 
with the first gold-seekers from, the Atlantic States. As 
she rounded Telegraph Hill, the vessel careened to the 
shore side, from the rush of passengers to get a look 
at the town. The United States Pacific naval squadron 
was anchored between Telegraph and Rincon Hills. 
Commodore Jones' flag-ship was the " Ohio." The 
other vessels were the " Portsmouth," " St. Mary," 
" Cyane," " Dale " and " Warren." 

The sight of the steamer, with her immense load 
of humanity, inspired the Commodore to order a general 
salute from the vessels of the fleet simultaneously. 
After the first broadsides from them they were en- 
veloped in a cloud of smoke, until the end of the 
greeting of twenty-one guns from each ship. The 



510 THE FIRST SHIP LOAD OF GOLD-SEEKERS. 

handling of the guns was so admirable that the firing 
appeared as if from one only. The echoes of the 
cannonading vibrated among the hills and valleys of 
the surrounding country of the bay, as heralding the 
future greatness of California. 

Commodore Jones, who first planted the American 
flag in California, in 1842, was the first to fire the 
memorable salute in the bay of San Francisco welcom- 
ing the immigrants who came subsequent to the dis- 
covery of gold. The Commodore was proud of being 
the first of our naval officers to welcome the new immi- 
gration that subsequently laid the foundation of Califor- 
nia, destined to assume the front rank among the States 
of the Union. The scene is fresh in my mind ; the view 
of the spectacle being grand, inspiring and awakening 
the deepest enthusiasm. In this steamer came the 
agent, Alfred Robinson, of the Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company, which had just been organized in New York ; 
and the " California " was the first vessel built by that 
Company and sent out to the Pacific coast as the fore- 
runner of a commercial fleet propelled by steam. 

Don xAlfredo Robinson came to California in the 
ship " Brookline," of Boston, in 1829, as assistant 
supercargo. He arrived at Monterey and in the same 
year came to San Francisco. He has now attained 
the ripe age of over four score years and is mentally 
and physically hale and strong, with the exception that 
he has become almost totally blind. Of the very 
earliest settlers of California Mr. Robinson stands first 



A NIGHT ALARM. 5 I I 

on the list of the few remaining argonauts. Jacob P. 
Leese comes second, J.J. Warner, number three, (if 
he is still living) and the writer, number four. It will 
not take many more years before the names here 
mentioned will disappear, as things of the past. 

Immediately below my home, north of Jackson 
and west of Stockton streets, there existed a hollow or 
little valley, with low, rolling hills on each side. In it 
in the summer of 1849, quite a village of tents was 
temporarily inhabited by people from all parts of the 
world, preparatory to departing for the mines. One 
night in the early hours of morning my slumber was 
disturbed by screams of women and children from 
the hamlet of canvass. While I was reflecting, in 
a half awake and half asleep condition, as if emerg- 
ing from a dream or nightmare, I heard a sharp 
knock at the door of my dwelling. In opening it, 
there stood before me several women, tremblincr with 
fright. They had escaped from their temporary homes ; 
the poor creatures came to my house for protection, 
which I gave them. One of the number, who proved 
to be a cultivated Chilean lady, Dona Rosa Gaskell, 
asked my wife to permit them to remain for the rest of 
the night. Mrs. Gaskell was terribly alarmed for her 
life. Her husband had gone to the mines. During 
the melee at the scene of disturbance, the tents and 
their fixtures were destroyed, and many persons were 
injured bodily by the hands of a band of ruffians who 
styled themselves the "Hounds." 



512 ROUGHS IN A HAMLET OF TENTS 

The town became alarmed and excited over this 
affair, and energetic measures were at once adopted to 
prevent a repetition of the outrage by these despera- 
does. Mr. Samuel Brannan took the lead in the mat- 
ter. Under his directions we organized patrols, and 
the town was divided into districts, each district 
guarded by a body of men under arms. I was ap- 
pointed the head of seven, to guard north of Washing- 
ton and east of Montgomery streets, running to the bay 
from these thoroughfares. For several weeks I shoul- 
dered one of Uncle Sam's shining muskets with bayo- 
net, parading all night near the habitations of the 
roughest elements of the town. 

While we were protecting the place Mr. Brannan 
was active and did good work. The breakers-of-the 
peace were arrested as fast as they were found and 
identified. They were placed on board the sloop of 
war "Warren," in irons, preparatory to their trial by a 
Court of the Territory. 

Mr. and Mrs. C. V. Gillespie arrived here in 
the American brig " Eagle," from Canton, in the begin- 
ning of February, 1848. With this vessel another 
American lady was added to the number of the very 
few that were already here, who with the male popu- 
lation were all very glad to welcome this estimable 
lady to the new American town. 

Hall McAllister brought letters of introduction to 
Mr. Gillespie from the East, at the time when the 
" Hound " excitement was at its highest pitch. Hor- 



PRISONERS ON BOARD THE " WARREN. 513 

ace Hawes was the prosecuting attorney against the 
evil-doers and disturbers of the tranquihty of the town. 
C. V. Gillespie, who was a member of the committee of 
safety, suggested to Mr. Hawes the name of Mr. Mc- 
Allister as a young man of talent and learned in the 
profession of the law, to be associated with him in the 
prosecution of the " Hounds." This was the cause 
of his participating in those events. He prosecuted the 
prisoners for the Territory with marked ability. That 
trial established his legal talent, which developed up to 
the time of his demise, and stamped him the foremost 
barrister of the city of San Francisco and of the State 
of his adoption. I may safely remark here, that he 
probably had no superior in the Union in the law, con- 
sidering that Mr. McAllister was master of all branches 
of practice in his profession. The " Hounds" were 
convicted after a stubborn and able defence by their 
attorney, Myron Norton. R. M. Sherman and Wm. 
H. Tillinghast were appointed a committee, to board 
the "Warren," to interview some of the prisoners. 

Some years after this occurrence, a young lady, a 
cousin of Sherman, met an older lady accidentally in 
New York. The subject of their conversation turned 
on California. The former mentioned that she had a 
cousin in California named Richard M. Sherman. The 
latter replied that she was familiar with a part of the 
early history of the Golden State. She had a son, by 
the name of Higgins, who was one of the gang of 
" Hounds," that were tried and convicted for the crime 



514 COMMERCE ON THE BAY. 

above named. It was a sineular coincidence, that 
Sherman who was active in the exciting event and had 
waited on Higgins in his official capacity, as a com- 
mitteeman, was a relative of the young woman. Hig- 
gins, the " Hound," was the son of the older lady. 

The pressure was great for the first twelve months 
or more after the discovery of gold, to transport passen- 
gers and goods more speedily to the mines. The only 
transporters of passengers and goods were sailing 
schooners and launches. Early in 1849, Mr. John 
Parrott suggested to me the project of building a steam 
vessel, for commerce on these inland waters. Captain 
William A. Richardson, John Parrott and myself were to 
form a copartnership, with a cash capital of $45,000, as a 
beginning for our enterprise. Mr. Parrott was to leave 
for New York immediately, and to contract with a 
builder for a steamboat of about 200 tons capacity, to 
ply between San Francisco and Sacramento, with pass- 
engers and freight. He departed on the U. S. flag- 
ship "Ohio," by way of Mazatlan, for New York, in 
February, 1849; and on arriving there, he found that 
Jim Blair was then constructing a stern-wheel boat for 
the bay of San Francisco and rivers adjacent thereto. 
In a letter from Mr. Parrott to Richardson and myself' 
he discouraged our scheme, for the reason that the 
steamer already under construction for Blair would 
supply the demand of the increasing trade with the in- 
terior, and he thought that our undertaking would prove 
financially disastrous. 



MR. LAFAYETTE MAVNARD. 515 

This news was anything but pleasant to the cap- 
tain and myself, as the traffic with the mines had mul- 
tiplied to such an extent that every man living- here 
was astonished to witness the millions of wealth that 
were pouring into the town of tents. 

I wrote to Mr. Parrott that there was business 
enough for our steamboat if she was built ; yea, and 
eight or ten more with her, to meet the commercial 
demands of the bay and its tributaries. In his answer 
to my letter, he thought that my judgment was erron- 
eous, and that he was right. The project was aban- 
doned, through him, to the injury of himself and his 
associates. The business would have produced for us 
hundreds of thousands, if not a million or more of dol- 
lars. I am sustained in this assertion by events that 
transpired subsequently in this line of business. 

Richardson and myself got our money back from 
New York, after waiting a long while. Blair's boat 
was called " Sutter," after the pioneer of Sacramento 
Valley, and she did a large and profitabe business for 
her owner. 

Mr. Lafayette Maynard was the owner of a part 
of block of real estate, bounded by Sacramento, San- 
some and California streets, which bore his name. He 
had been a lieutenant in the 'United States navy, 
and was familiar with the art of surveying harbors and 
rivers. He took Wilkes' survey of the Sacramento 
river, and examined it critically for an object. He went 
to capitalists in New York, explained and demon- 



510 THE STEAMER "SENATOR. 

strated to them that it was practicable and feasible for 
a deep sea steamer of 600 or 800 tons measurement to 
navigate the river to Sacramento city. The steamer 
" Senator " was purchased by a syndicate, for the pur- 
pose suggested by Maynard, and he was included in 
the company. At the time of the transaction, she was 
a packet out of New York, running on the Sound. 
She departed immediately for San Francisco through 
the Straits of Magellan, and arrived here early in Sep- 
tember, 1849. Samuel Brannan, W, D. M. Howard, 
(and, I think,) Bezar Simmons, and myself, made up 
the party of four who boarded her soon after she 
dropped anchor. Mr. Brannan, who was the originator 
of the project, was selected by us as our spokesman. 
He soon made known the object of our visit, and of- 
fered the captain or agent of the steamer the large sum 
of $250,000, in gold dust, at sixteen dollars per ounce, 
for her sale to us. This offer was rejected with smiles, 
by those representing the steamer. Mr. Brannan 
again asked them what would they take for the vessel. 
The answer came that she was not for sale. So ended 
our trip to the most historic vessel of the days of forty- 
nine. 

It was often remarked that the '' Senator" had car- 
ried enough gold from Sacramento to San Francisco to 
sink her two or three times over with the weight of the 
precious metal. Add to this the passage and freight 
money, the former two ounces for the trip, and the lat- 
ter from forty dollars to eighty dollars per ton, and the 



THE STEAMER "SENATOR.' 517 

amount received was enormous. It would probably take 
two or three similar steamers to convey the freighted 
gold, and the gold and silver coin she had earned for 
her owners during the height of our gold production. 

The " Old Senator," by which name she was fa- 
miliarly known, is now moored in the waters of Aus- 
tralia, as a coal vessel. Had she possessed intelligence, 
she might have been too proud of her nationality, and for 
her deeds of the past in the accumulation of wealth to 
the country of her birth, to become a naturalized sub- 
ject of a British colony,, by the change of flags. 

Had Mr. Parrott exercised his known foresight 
and great business ability, our steamboat would have 
been one of the early conveyances on the waters of the 
bay of San Francisco, in competing for our pro rata of 
the enormous business, that was clone principally by 
a few vessels moved by steam, of a commerce that 
excited the business men of the known world. 



CHAPTER LVII. 

First Brick Building Erected in San Francisco by the Author — Heavy Rains Stop 
the Work for a Season — Teaming Difficult — The Embryo City a Lake of Mud 
— How Pedestrians Managed to get About — Commodore Jones Wants to 
Remove the Brick Building, and Transport the Material of which it was Com- 
posed to Benicia — The Commodore Fails to Make an Impression on the 
Author's Mind that Benicia was to be the Future Metropolitan City of the Bay 
— The Commodore's Offer Declined — Other Tempting Propositions Rejected 
— The Building Subsequently Leased to the Government as a Custom House — 
Seiior Jose Antonio Aguirre, the Author and Others Embark in Another 
Business Enterprise ^The Ship Rhone Chartered and Dispatched to China for 
Goods — Why the Speculation Proved a Failure — Flour from Chile — The 
Author, with a Party, Goes on a Gold-Hunting Expedition to Lower California 
— Precaution in Tent-Pitching against Rattlesnakes — Don Ramon fond of 
Rattlesnakes as Food — An Ancient Olive Orchard — The Party Joined by Don 
Manuel Castro and Five Soldiers, an Indian Guide and Interpreter — The Expe- 
dition Arrives at Trinidad — The Interpreter Dispatched for Zapaje, an Old 
Indian Chief, who knew Where the Gold was to be Found — The Chief Comes 
into Camp with a Party of His Own — Generous Offers Made to the Old Chief 
it he will Reveal where the Gold Exists — He declined Them — His Reason 
for so Doing — The Chief obdurate to the End — The Expedition Consequently 
a Failure — A Band of large fine Cattle purchased by the Author from Seiior 
Emigdio Bejar in Lower California — The Cattle Arrive at San Leandro in 
August 1852. 

The first brick building erected in San Francisco 
was commenced in September, 1849, by the writer, at 
the northwest corner of Montgomery and Cahfornia 
Streets ; forty feet on the first and eighty feet on the 
latter street,, four stories high, with a cellar. The bricks 
and cement, and other materials, were brought from 
Boston. The winter of i849-'50 was so rainy that the 
work on the structure was stopped early in November, 



FIRST BRICK BUILDING IN SAN FRANCISCO. 519 

and re-commenced in April, 1850. The rains were 
heavy, and teaming difficult on Montgomery between 
California and Jackson streets, and California, Sacra- 
mento, Clay, Washington and Jackson streets. The 
miniature city of that day was a lake of mud. To en- 
able the pedestrians to move about, boxes of Virginia 
tobacco and kegs of New England nails were placed 
along the streets, about a foot or two apart, for side- 
walks. On these goods the people traveled, by leaping 
from a box to a kee, and from a keg of nails to a box 
of tobacco, and thus the inhabitants managed to reach 
their places of business and their homes. The influx 
of tobacco and nails was so great that the articles had 
no market value, but they were of use for the purposes 
above described. 

One lovely morning in April, 1S50, Commodore 
Jones approached me where my building was being put 
up, and said he had a business proposition for my con- 
sideration. The naval commander of the Pacific 
squadron immediately gave me the details of it ; which 
was for me to stop building, and to undo what had 
been done; and he would transport all the materials of 
my structure to Benicia in one of his ships of war, free 
of charge for freight. 

He and other Benicians were to deed me a very 
eligible piece of real estate in the city of the Carquinez 
free of cost, conditioned that I should erect a large brick 
building on the site. The Commodore went into the 
particulars of the commercial advantages of Benicia 



520 BENICIA, A PROPOSED METROPOLIS. 

over San Francisco, in extended and able remarks, such 
as a man of talent and of vast information would surely 
make. After listening to the historical naval officer's 
praises of the interior deep sea harbor, with all due 
respect to his high rank, I said : " I beg to differ with 
you. In my judgment San Francisco is destined to be 
the harbor and business emporium on the Bay of San 
Francisco, from her geographical position and accessi- 
bility for vessels from the ocean." I thanked the Com- 
modore for having spent more than an hour in attempt- 
ing to convince me from his standpoint of the superior 
advantages possessed by Benicia for being the future 
big city of California, but was compelled to differ with 
him nevertheless. At this time and previously, there 
had been a vigorous move on the part of a few men, to 
locate San Francisco at Benicia for all time, as the 
great city on the waters of San Francisco Bay. 
Among the schemers were Robert Semple. General 
Vallejo, Thomas O. Larkin, Henry D. Cook, William 
M. Stewart, and the heads of the United States army 
and navy on the coast. I was talked to by some of the 
parties above named, before Commodore Jones inter- 
viewed me who made propositions of magnitiude in my 
interest, from their view of the subject. They wanted 
me to give up the city that I had assisted to build from 
its infancy, and to establish my large business at Benicia ; 
which was something that I could not accede to. 

That building after it was finished, I leased to the 
United States Government in June, 1850, for a Custom 



I 



BUILDING LEASED FOR A CUSTOM HOUSE. 52 1 

House. The rental was to be three thousand dollars 
per month, or thirty-six thousand dollars per year for 
three years to run. In the great fire of May, 1851, the 
Custom House succumbed to the devouring element ; 
also other buildings and merchandise I owned, both 
of which produced me an income of over ten thou- 
sand dollars monthly, before the fire. The Collec- 
tor retained possession of the premises lor over 
a month, guarding the treasure which was saved 
in the vault, which proved to be thoroughly fire- 
proof The structure was filled with bonded goods 
from cellar to top. The lease terminated with the 
destruction of the building, and ended one of my 
monthly incomes. But I demanded of the Collector pay 
for the detention of the premises after the fire, the sum 
of $6,ooc. He referred me to the Treasury Department 
at Washington for my compensation. In the course of 
many months, I received three thousand dollars through 
Colonel J. U. Stevenson, who was my attorney in the 
matter. 

Thomas Butler King was the Collector of the Port 
at that time. The removal of the treasure from the 
ruins of my building, to the new custom-house. Palmer, 
Cooke & Co's. old banking house, northwest corner ol 
Kearney and W'^ashington streets, constituted a pro- 
cession of about fifty armed men, which was headed 
by the Collector with pistol in hand. This action on 
the part of King, was ridiculed and censured by the 
citizens as doubting the honesty of the inhabitants of 



52 2 TRADE WITH CHINA. 

the youno- city. The numerous law-abiding citizens 
that Hned Montgomery street to view the transfer 
of the treasure, would have protected the Government 
funds from any attack that might have been made, with- 
out the aid of the accompanying guard. 

One evening in December, 1848, Sefior Aguirre 
and myself were seated by a blazing fire, in the sitting 
room of my home in San PVancisco. The wind was 
blowing from the southeast, the windows of the dwelling 
rattled with the storm, and the piazza was drenched 
by the spattering of the silvery drops that fell from the 
dark clouds overhead. I said to Don Jose Antonio, 
that the "Joven Guipuzcoana" sailed but a week or 
two since for Oregon, for a cargo of flour, and I had 
another business proposition in my mind, to make for 
his consideration : — " You and I both have money lying 
idle. Let us arrange a voyage to China, for a cargo of 
Chinese goods, for this market." He replied that 
he had confidence in my business ability, and any sug- 
gestion coming from me he would gladly assist to carry 
out. I said, " Let us charter the ship Rhone for the 
object and I will prevail on her owners to join us." 

Mr. Aguirre was an old merchant that traded 
between Mexico and China, mentioned previously, and 
was familiar with the cost of goods in China ; also with 
the prices of the articles when sold here. I asked him 
what capital we would require for the expedition. 
He said, not less than $100,000, to make it profitable 
and that $1 20,000 would be still better. I replied, " Al 



TRADE WITH CHINA. S~3 

right; we will put in $40,000, and I think F^inley, 
Johnson & Co. will invest $40,000; and I am sure 
Cross, Hobson & Co., will make up the balance." He 
suggested that I had better move in the matter soon. 
The following day I arranged with the two firms above 
named, and by noon the Rhone was chartered. The 
beginning of January, i849. the American ship Rhone 
departed for Canton via Honolulu. She took with her 
$120,000 in gold dust at sixteen dollars per ounce, less 
$4,000 which Cross, Hobson & Co. were unable to 
provide to make up the full amount of their portion. 

Mr. Finley who was also an old China trader 
between Baltimore and China, went as supercargo, to 
attend to the business of the Rhone. The ship returned 
to San Francisco in the summer of 1849 with a cargo 
of goods. 

Mr. Finley had a written instruction, on the eve 
of his departure, to invest the funds under his charge 
wholly for China goods and no other. About half of 
the cargo proved to be European and American goods, 
and the market of San Francisco was glutted with such 
articles. The entire cargo of the vessel was sold per- 
emptorily at auction by Brannan 8z Osborn. During 
the sale W. D. M. Howard and I were standing side 
by side and offering bids to the auctioneer. Mr. Howard 
said to me, " Why, if the invoice of the Rhone had all 
been Chinese goods, the Rhone's cargo would have 
yielded you a very large profit, over the capital you 
invested." The owners of the cargo made a profit of 



524 TRADE WITH CHINA. 

more than one hundred percent, on the Chinese goods, 
but lost on the other goods, in consequence of Finley's 
acting contrary to his instructions. Had Mr. Finley 
followed the old adage, " Obey orders or break owners," 
the rule would have been reversed in this instance to : 
" Obey orders and enrich owners." 

Let me remark right here, that it was the unanim- 
ous wish of the charterers of the Rhone, that I should go 
as supercargo instead of Finley, and the latter urged 
me over and over to accept the appointment, and relieve 
him of the responsibility of the undertaking. Had I 
gone one thing is certain, I would have obeyed my in- 
structions to the letter. In the end however we lost 
no money, but made a profit. 

In the summer of 1849, and after the arrival of the 
ship Rhone from Canton, my friend Aguirre conceived 
the idea for a business voyage to the Southern ports 
of California. He had in my safe between $100,000 
and $200,000 in doubloons and gold dust, and he was 
eager to do something with it. «• 

The bark Rochelle, of Boston, was in port, and 
Aguirre wanted me to charter her for our joint account, 
and I did so. Captain John Paty was in town without 
a ship, and he was engaged for master of the vessel. 
In a short time she was filled with goods, on freight for 
different points on the coast, and with merchandise on 
our own account. She sailed for Monterey, and after 
she had passed Point Pinos in the night, the wind 
shifted to the southeast. In' order to reach the anchor- 



FLOUR FROM CHILE. 525 

age of Monterey, she had to make tacks, and beat 
against the wind. In standing in towards the shore on 
which were the picnic grounds of olden times, south of 
Point Pinos, she struck on a rocky point, in the dark- 
ness and sprung a leak. Captain Paty, however, 
managed to get her off and came to anchor. In a few 
days after the accident, a courier arrived from Monterey, 
with letters from Aguirre and Paty, informing me of 
the mishap. At that time I was the owner of a Balti- 
more-built bark of about three hundred tons burden, 
named Hortensia, which was lying here in the stream, 
preparatory to a departure later in the year for Valpa- 
raiso in ballast for a cargo of flour, on my own account 
for this market. This unexpected news changed the 
programme of the Hortensia's intended voyage to Chile. 
In twenty-four hours after the receipt of my mail from 
Monterey, the Hortensia was on her way to the scene 
of the disaster, with her owner as passenger. The 
cargo of the disabled vessel was transferred to the 
Hortensia and she performed the delivery of the goods 
at ports south of Monterey as far as San Diego. The 
Rochelle venture after all the serious and costly acci- 
dent proved profitable finally. 

This was the first misfortune that had occurred to 
Captain Paty during his long career on the coast as 
mariner and shipmaster. He looked very much depress- 
ed, when he reached the deck of the Hortensia, after 
we had dropped anchor. The misfortune of the 
Rochelle was a good thing for the Hortensia, as it 



526 DANGEROUS REPTILES. 

proved afterward. The influx of flour from Chile dur- 
ing;- the winter of 1849-50 was so great that its price 
came down, and the shippers of the article suffered 
heavy losses. 

In 1850 and part of 1851, Mrs. Davis lived at 
San Diego in her own house. During a visit to her in 
the latter year, I was invited by a nephew of one of the 
early governors of California, to join him and his 
brothers, in a gold-hunting expedition to Lower Califor- 
nia. Our company consisted of the three Arguellos, 
myself, two servants, and two pack mules, for our bag- 
gage and provisions. During our journey through the 
sparsely populated country, to the Mission of Santo 
Tomas, we camped every night near a spring or stream 
of running water. Don Ramon Arguello, who acted 
as our guide, would pitch our tents, after the ground 
had been cleared of brushes and scrub oak, in a circle 
of about 300 feet circumference, the boundary of which 
was encircled with a rim of fire. This w-as done to 
protect us from nightly attacks of rattlesnakes while 
we slept. The territory was infested with these repul- 
sive and dangerous reptiles. Every day during our 
march, Don Ramon would kill, on an average, a dozen 
of these snakes. He would eat a portion of their 
bodies, after it was broiled over a hot fire, and often 
remarked to me, that it was more nutritious than the 
meat of a fat chicken. He tried to prevail on his 
brothers, to share with him in his " tidbits," as he 
called them. 



AN EXPEDITION TO LOWER CALIFORNIA. 527 

W'c Stopped as we moved along at the rancheros' 
old adobes, and received their hospitalities — a repetition 
of the treatment of strangers in Upper California in the 
days gone by. We drank very good native wine, froni 
the vineyards of the pioneers of the department. We 
were several days in reaching Santo Tomas, where we 
camped in the ancient olive orchard of the Misson, under 
the shade of its trees. The trees were lofty, their 
planting having been the work of the early mission- 
aries, more than a century before my visit there. 

Here Don Manuel Castro who was the military 
commander of this part of the country, joined our party, 
with five soldiers and a corporal, as an escort, to our 
journey of discovery. General Castro also provided 
us with an Indian, who was to interpret for us, with an 
old chief, for whom we were in search, to obtain infor- 
mation of the hidden bonanza. 

The expedition arrived at Trinidad, a valley 
in a mountain of over four thousand feet above 
the level of the sea, twenty to thirty miles back 
from the Pacific Ocean. Here we dispatched the in- 
terperter with another Indian forChief Zapaje. In three 
days time our couriers returned with the chief and other 
aborigines. Our camp fed them well, before our big 
talk took place over the object of our visit, with Zapaje. 
General Castro was a talented man and a man of persua- 
sive powerof language. He commenced first to convince 
the chief, that if he would make known the coveted 
spot and uncover it to us, he would present him with 



528 AN EXPEDITION TO LOWER CALIFORNIA. 

a maiiada of mares, ten saddle horses, and twenty-five 
head of cows for himself and his tribe. The old man 
was unmoved with this generous proposition from 
Castro. The latter asked him through the interpreter, 
what was his objection to lead us where the placer existed 
after this offer of so much property. He replied that 
more than seventy years ago, he was instructed by the 
Fathers of Santo Tomas never to divulge to any one, 
outside of the Church, the covered wealth of Lower 

California; if he did he would incur the wrath of 

« 

God. and would die instantly. These early teachings 
of the Fathers were indelible in the minds of these 
Christianized Mission Indians, who were deeply impress- 
ed with the Church notions, of keeping the world 
ignorant of the whereabouts of this buried ore. 

Don Santiaquito Arguello next argued with the 
chief, to tell him where the gold existed, and offered 
him one hundred head of cows, one manada of mares, 
and five tame horses, if he would reveal the secret. 
The chief turned a deaf ear to this proffer, and told the 
interpreter to tell Senor Arguello, whom he had known 
when a youth, that he would die soon after telling it. 

I was the third to have the final argument with 
the stubborn Indian. I commenced telling him that I 
was a merchant of San Francisco, the owner of bales 
of Turkey red handkerchiefs, calico, brown sheeting, 
colored blankets, tobacco, and other articles suitable to 
the Indian tastes of California; if he would show us 
where the mine was located, I would give him two bales 



A PURCHASE OF CATTLE. 529 

of handkerchiefs, two of caHco, two of cotton, fifty pairs 
of blankets, tobacco and other articles of value ; condi- 
tioned that he brins^ us some of the gold first ; after 
that we would meet him at this place with our presents, 
and follow him with the animals and goods to the loca- 
tion of the placer, where the whole property would be 
delivered to him. His answer to my liberal proposition 
was the same as already mentioned. 

Here our hopes vanished for discovering the 
rumored deposits of gold, known to exist in primitive 
days of missionary regime. It w^as well known to 
the early inhabitants of that part of the peninsula, that 
gold existed ; and the priests handled plenty of it, 
through the Indians of- the Missions. But the secret 
of the deposits was kept by the priests, as a matter 
of policy and from political and religious convictions ; 
and by the Indians because of their superstitions. 

On our way back to San Diego, we were inter- 
cepted at the ruins of the Mission of San Vicente by 
Don Emigdio Vejar. He was a member of a prominent 
family of that name, in Los Angeles County, who were 
large cattle owners. Seiior Vejar offered to sell me 
seven hundred head of tame milch cows, many ot them 
with suckling calves, and fifty head cabcstj'os, for seven 
thousand dollars. I said to him I had no time to spare 
to eo and see his cattle. He referred me to one of the 
Arguellos who was present. The latter said that he 
had seen the stock, and that they were large fine cat- 
tle. I accepted Vejar's offer and bought the animals. 

34 



530 A PURCHASE OF CATTLE. 

In May, 1S52, I visited San Diego, and received 
from Arguello the cattle I had bought of Vejar the year 
before. 

On my way north with the band of cattle, I stop- 
ped at Los Angeles about two weeks, during which 
time I bought of Don Eulojio de Celis, seven hundred 
large steers for thirteen dollars each. With this 
purchase it made the drove a large one. The band 
arrived at San Leandro in x^ugust, where they were 
re-branded and re-earmarked with my iron and earmark. 
The stock was removed to "San Joaquin" in the fall 
of 1852, and Jose Antonio Estudillo, a brother of Mrs. 
Davis took charge of them. The consideration for his 
care over my cattle, being one-half of the increase from 
the cows. 



CHAPTER LVIII. 

Senora Doiia Juana Estudillo's Portion of the Pinole Rancho — A Tract of Seven 
Thousand Acres — It is named "San Joaquin " hy the Author — Four Thou- 
sand Head of Cattle grazing on the " San Joaquin " in 1853 — The" Cybell," 
with a Cargo of three hundred thousand feet of Pine Lumber, forty thousand 
Bricks, and Frames for eight or ten Mouses, arrives from Portland, Maine, in 
the Summer of 1850 — The Author Purchases the Cargo for $10,000 — Build- 
ing Material a Glut in the San Francisco Market — A Picturesque Spot for a 
Town on the Encinal de Temascal, the present site of the City of Oakland — 
The Author's Plans for the Laying Out of the Town — Negotiations with the 
Owner of the Rancho for Purchase of the Premises in the Fall of 1846 — Don 
Vicente Peralta Refuses to Sell the Property — The Owner Disposes of the 
Land in 1850 to Col. Jack Hays, Caperton and others — The Rancho San 
Leandro — A History of Squatter Troubles — Litigation Lasting for Years — 
The Squatters finally Beaten — They Take Leases from the Estudillo P'amily 
— The County Seat of Alameda County Removed in 1854 from Alvarado to 
San Leandro — Mrs. Estudillo and her Children Deed the County Land for 
Public Buildings — The town of San Leandro Laid Out, and a Fine Hotel 
Built, called the "The p:studilIo." 

Previous to my departure for Southern California, 
I had a corral built, large enough to contain my cattle, 
on my mother-in-law's portion of the Pinole rancho, 
which I had named " San Joaquin," after the husband 
of the proprietress of the land she had inherited from 
her father and mother, Don Ygnacio and Doiia Martina 
Martinez. Mrs. Estudillo added to her interest by 
purchases from several of her sisters, who were also 
heirs of the Pinole. In titling the new rancho, I simply 
added San to the Joaquin, then it became the name of 
a Saint. The Californians were in the habit gen- 
erally of naming their ranchos after Saints; probably 



532 THE PINOLE RANCHO. 

from religious convictions that the Ruler on High 
in all things would aid and guide them in their 
daily pursuits. But it did not save them from the 
avaricious enemies of the Spanish and Mexican grants, 

Sefiora Doiia Juana Estudillo was the possessor 
of over seven thousand acres of valuable land, a part of 
the original " Pinole." She had the tract enclosed and 
improved with good fences and buildings. Under 
ordinary management it could have been made to pro- 
duce from rents of the land enough income to have 
supported Mrs. Estudillo and her children. But the 
rancho was subsequently sold for thirty-eight thousand 
dollars. 

Probably the present owner and the original pur- 
chaser from Mrs. Estudilloof the " San Joaquin " would 
not sell it for half a million dollars. The Central 
and Southern Pacific Railroad have acquired rights of 
way through the estate. 

In the end, my cattle speculation proved a success, 
for many steers were sold in the fall and winter of 1853 
and 1854, for fifty, sixty and as high as seventy dollars 
for each animal. There were many of them stolen 
from the rancho, for lack of watchfulness on the part 
of the man who had the supervision of the animals. 
Schooners and launches came to the beach along the 
northern boundary of the rancho in the night, and the 
very vaqueros under pay from Estudillo to guard the 
cattle against thieves, were the men (villians) delivering 
to the boats, not only my cattle, but also those that 



THE PINOLE RANCnO. 533 

were owned by the Estudillos themselves. My loss in 
this way amounted to more than ten thousand dollars. 

In 1853, the cattle at San Leandro were pretty 
well hemmed in by the squatters, and deprived of their 
pasturage, on their native soil. So it was compulsory 
on the part of the owners, to remove them to " San 
Joaquin," as their place of grazing, to keep them from 
dying for want of grass and water. 

My cattle and the herd from San Leandro made a 
rodeo of over four thousand cattle, a very respectable 
number compared with the round-up of the early days 
of the department. 

Don Jose Ramon Estudillo, another brother of 
Mrs. Davis, was fond of the sport of lassoeing elk. He 
told me once that on this identical spot of " San Joaquin, " 
he had seen many of these beasts of the forest graz- 
ing with the stock of the Pinole rancho. 

After new San Diego was laid out, lumber was 
wanted for building purposes, by the projectors of the 
newly made plot, and by others ; also by the quarter- 
master of the post, for government improvements. 

About the latter end of the summer of 1850, the 
brig " Cybell " of three hundred and fifty tons burden, 
arrived from Portland, Maine, loaded with a cargo of 
lumber and bricks. Mr. Bond of the firm of Hussey, 
Bond & Hale, offered me soon after the " Cybell " drop- 
ped anchor, the brig with her load of three hundred 
thousand feet of pine lumber, eight or ten houses already 
framed, and forty thousand bricks, for ten thousand 



534 PLANS FOR BUYING THE SITE OF OAKLAND. 

dollars, and I bought the vessel and cargo just as she 
came from the East. The following day she sailed for 
San Diego, with the same captain that brought her to 
San Francisco. 

The purchase proved profitable. About eighty 
thousand feet of the same lumber were re-ship- 
ped to San Francisco from San Diego in the winter of 
1851-52, and I realized from it seventy dollars per 
thousand feet, free of freight. At the time of the arrival 
of the " Cybell," building materials were a glut in the 
market of San Francisco. " The vessel was similar to 
the " Euphemia," as a great carrier, for her tonnage. 

It was evident after the change of flag that the 
growth of San Francisco would be rapid, even without 
subsequent discovery of gold and the influx of immigra- 
tion caused by it. The resources of the department 
were endless, as an agricultural and horticultural coun- 
try ; also, for grazing purposes. The latter had been 
demonstrated by the early settlers under the Mexican 
rule. This prospective wealth of California was suffi- 
cient to build and support one large city on the coast 
San Francisco, being geographically well situated for the 
commerce of the world, with her rich country border- 
ing on the bay, and rich valleys accessible by water. 

In my travels around the bay on business, I had 
observed a picturesque spot for a town on the estuary 
of San Antonio, due east from San Francisco. The 
site was known in early times as Encinal de Temascal, 
on Vicente Peralta's portion of the division of the Rancho 



PLANS FOR BUYING THE SITE OF OAKLAND. 535 

San Antonio, segregated by Don Luis Peralta, his 
father. This site is the present city of Oakland. 

My relation with Don Vicente was good, socially 
and commercially. In the fall of 1846, he was in my 
store making purchases. I told him I had a proposi- 
tion to make for his consideration, and I desired him 
to dine with me that evening. After dinner I broached 
the matter, by saying to him : "You are the owner 
of the Encinal de Temascal, and there is a spot on that 
part of your rancho that pleases me for a town." He 
wanted to know the exact location of the place, and 
I pointed it out to him on a rough map I had prepared 
for the purpose. I offered him five thousand dollars 
cash for two-thirds of the Encinal, to build a church of 
his faith, also to construct a wharf and run a ferry-boat 
from San Francisco to the intended town, all of which 
to be at my cost and expense. Whenever sales of lots 
were made, we would both sign the deeds, and each 
take his pro rata of the money. Don Vicente, in reply 
to my talk, said that he would take the matter under 
advisement and let me know. 

He inquired the extent ot the land I sought to 
purchase. I described it to him on my sketch, which 
made Fifteenth street from the bay to Lake Merritt 
the northern boundary, and thence from Lake Merritt, 
following the meandering of the shore boundary of the 
present city of Oakland to the intersection of Fifteenth 
street with the shore line of the bav of San Francisco. 
When we met again, Don Vicente was not prepared to 
give me an answer. 



536 PLANS FOR BUYING THE SITE OF OAKLAND. 

While m}^ mind was full of my project, I inter- 
viewed and explained to W. D. M. Howard, Sam. Bran- 
nan, Henry Melius, Alcalde Hyde, James C. Ward, 
Wm. A. Leidesdorff, Robert Ridley, Frank Ward, Hir- 
am Grimes, Wm. M. Smith, Robert A. Parker, Fran- 
cisco Guerrero, Josiah Belden, Bezar Simmons, 
C. L. Ross, R. M. Sherman, and many others of the 
leading citizens of San Francisco, my programme for a 
" Brooklyn " for San Francisco — an outlet for the com- 
ing city. Each of these gentlemen was willing and 
anxious to buy a block or more of land for a retreat so 
near the metropolis, whenever I completed my arrange- 
ments with Peralta, and mapped the town. 

During my numerous conversations with him at 
various times on the subject before me, I told him that 
if he declined to accept my generous offer, he would 
suffer essentially, from a business standpoint ; that his 
land would be squatted on, and his cattle slaughtered 
without his knowledge at night by evil-doers, and the 
meat shipped to San Francisco and sold. (Beef was 
selling here at retail from three-quarters of a dollar to 
one dollar per pound. I paid the latter price to supply 
my table with meat in the winter of 1849-50.) That 
if he sold me the land I would have the tract inclosed 
at once with a good fence ; I would start the town with 
the best and wealthiest people of San Francisco, which 
would be a body-guard against the appropriation of his 
property without his knowledge and consent. " Well," 
he said, " I must get the consent of my father for my 



I 



PLANS FOR 15UYING THE SITE OF OAKLAND. 537 

action in the matter." This was simply done to put 
me off, as he hated to part with any land, although 
convinced that it would be for his benefit to put some 
of his possessions into money. It was the old notion 
of the big rancheros of the department to have leagues 
of land, with thousands of animals. 

I went to see his father at the city of San Jose, 
accompanied by James Alex. F'orbes (British vice- 
Consul for California, who was married to a sister of 
Mrs. Vicente Peralta,) who knew the old man well. 
Old Peralta said that the land I desired to buy from 
his .son Vicente absolutely belonged to the latter. I 
persevered in my project year after year, to induce Don 
Vicente to yield to my liberal proffer, as I considered 
1 was doing him a kindness. But it was of no avail, 
and the stubborn man stood alone in his singular no- 
tion, against the judgment and advice of his good wife, 
of the British vice-Consul (his brother-in-law), of the 
Catholic priest, and other friends of Don Vicente, all of 
whom advised him to accept my proposition by all 
means. 

In the meantime, boatmen from San Francisco 
were bringing meat from the cattle belonging to Vicente 
Peralta to the city. These cattle were killed with 
rifles in the night, under the shadow of the Encinal, by 
parties who had already squatted on his lands. Atone 
time Peralta and a vaquero came suddenly on a party 
of men, in the night, who were quartering a beef, pre- 
paratory to shipment to San Francisco. The squat- 



53^ SQUATTERS IN POSSESSION. 

ters immediately pointed their guns at Peralta and his 
vaquero, who departed, in order to save their Hves. 
This slaughtering of his animals began as early as 
1848, before the discovery of gold. In the fore-part 
of 1850 I made my last call on Don Vicente on this 
business, to renew once more my offer. At this time 
the Encinal de Temascal was well covered with squat- 
ters. But I received the same reply as before. Prob- 
ably the loss to Peralta in cattle would exceed one hun- 
dred thousand dollars. I have heard it estimated by 
others much above my figures. 

He sold the site that I wanted to buy from him 
in the fall of 1850, to Colonel Jack Hays, Major John 
C. Caperton, Col. Irving, Alexander Cost, John Freanor 
and others, for eleven thousand dollars, after spending 
more than the amount he received, in fruitless lawsuits, 
for the possession of his lands from the squatters. 
Everything that I had predicted to Peralta, several 
years before the date above named, proved to be a 
reality, and he lost a large fortune by his stupidity, in 
refusing to have me associated with him in the owner- 
ship of some of his land, I had selected the best men 
in San P>ancisco, as founders of the new town I had 
conceived to build. Probably we would have prevented 
Carpentier, Adams, Moon and others, from becoming 
citizens of the town, adverse to our title. 

Several years after the above event, one bright 
spring morning, I met Don Vicente accidentally on 
Broadway in Oakland. He was glad to see me, and 



THE RANCIIO SAN LEANDRO. 539 

invited me to a costly French breakfast. Durinf^ our 
enjoyable meal, he referred to our old social and busi- 
ness relations, and at last he broke out with an expres- 
sion in his own language : " Vo fui uiuy tonto, dc no 
aver acceptado su proposicion, tocante al Encinal de 
Temascaiy (I was very foolish not to have accepted 
your proposition, in regard to the Encinal de Temascal.) 
In reply I said to him : " Es inutil de llorar por 
leche deramadaJ' (It is useless to cry over milk already 
spilt.) 

The following narrative concerning an historical 
Rancho in Alameda County, is a fair illustration of cer- 
tain events throughout the State generally, after the 
change of government, in respect to the difficulties and 
annoyances endured by the early settlers, and legal own- 
ers of the land and rightful possessors, in retaining 
their homes from the grasp of unscrupulous squatters 
and adventurers. 

In 1834 and 1835, Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo was 
living at the Presidio of San Francisco, and was elected 
first-alcalde of the district at the time. In the latter 
part of 1835 or the beginning of 1836, he removed to 
Rancho Pinole, and in the same year he located with 
his family at San Leandro. 

Jose Joaquin Estudillo settled on the Rancho San 
Leandro in 1836. He first obtained a written permit 
from the governor of the department to occupy the 
land. After he had located there with his family, 
he petitioned Governor Alvarado for a title. While the 



540 THE RANCHO SAN LEANDRO. 

Governor had the matter under consideration, Guil- 
lermo Castro, who owned the adjoining rancho San 
Lorenzo of six leagues to the east of San Leandro, was 
intriguing with Alvarado to obtain a grant of the same 
land. Governor Alvarado had married a first cousin 
of Castro. Although the former was on intimate terms 
with Estudillo, the governor was rather inclined to 
favor his cousin. 

Estudillo and Castro were both summoned by the 
governor to appear before him. to determine the peti- 
tions of the two applicants. Estudillo triumphed over 
Castro in the controversy. The former received his 
title papers in 1842 for one league of land, more or 
less, within and according to the following boundaries : 
on the west the Bay of San Francisco, on the north 
the arroyo (creek) San Leandro, on the east the first 
ridge of mountains or hills, and on the south the arroyo 
San Lorenzo. The consideration of the grant was the 
military services rendered by the grantee to his country. 
At the time that Don Joaquin settled on this land, he 
commenced with three hundred baquillas (heifers) to 
breed from. On his death in 1852, he left to his heirs 
about three thousand head of cattle, the increase of the 
original number after those he used and sold. Senor 
Estudillo had a peculiar idea of breeding white cattle; 
it was that it would enable him to see his stock at a 
great distance. In his large herd you could observe 
them more distinctly from their whiteness over the other 
cattle of the rancho. 



THE RANCIiO SAN LEANDRO. 54 1 

I well remember the occasion of the visit of Dona 
Martina, the mother of Mrs. Estudillo to San Leandro 
in 1850. Mrs. Martinez viewed the rancho of San 
Leandro from the cupola of her daughter's residence. 
She admired Don Joaquin's idea of breeding white 
cattle, because she saw they could be distinguished 
when far away. This lady was the owner of the Pinole 
rancho with thousands of animals. 

In 185 1 men commenced settling on the San 
Leandro rancho, against the wishes of its legal owner. 
The squatters had started a story that Estudillo had 
changed his title papers from one league to two leagues 
of land. Estudillo's grant called for one league, more 
or less, in accordance with the desefio (plat) and all the 
land contained therein belonged to the grantee. It 
was so decided by the government of the United States, 
and a patent was issued to Estudillo for seven thousand 
and ten acres of land. Don Jose Joaquin was an edu- 
cated, intelligent and upright man, and he had nothing 
to gain from a pecuniary standpoint in making the 
alterations as alleged by the squatters, as the owner- 
ship of the tract was already in him. Besides, all title 
papers before delivery to the grantee were recorded in 
the government archives at Monterey. The scheme 
of the enemies of the title was inconsistent with the 
facts. Squatting first made its appearance along the 
banks of the San Lorenzo creek, at a place subsequently 
known as " Squatterville." It soon spread over the 
entire rancho. Erom the incipiency of the epidemic, 



542 THE RANCHO SAN LEANDRO. 

the sons and sons-in-law of Senor Estudillo opposed the 
evil-doers in seizing the land. At times when we en- 
countered these men in their different holdings, there 
was a tendency or appearance towards a bloody affray. 
But among" them, there were conservative counsellors 
and prudent squatters, who invariably prevailed on the 
rougher class to avoid bloodshed. 

Only in one instance was this good advice dis- 
regarded. A young, intelligent man from Vermont, by 
the name of Albert W. Scott, was severely wounded by 
a pistol shot through the body, by one of the leaders 
of the squatters named Caleb Wray. Young Scott was 
helping John C. Pelton, who had been employed by the 
family to erect fences on the rancho, to prevent further 
invasion of the land, if possible, by the wrong doers. 
Scott recovered after many months of good nursing by 
the mother of the Estudillos. Since his narrow escape 
from death in protecting the rightful owners of the San 
Leandro, Mr. Scott has become a prominent merchant in 
San Francisco, and he has met with good success in 
business. He has been elected once or twice on the 
Board of Education in this city ; also, he was elected 
several times as Supervisor of his district in the city. 

Once in the spring of 1852, during my temporary 
absence to the Southern country, the cattle of the rancho 
that were raised along the San Lorenzo creek and vicin- 
ity, suffered greatly for want of water. The squatters 
had fenced in the entrance to the creek, and prevented 
the stock from getting to the only place where they 



THE RANXHO SAN LEANPRO. 543 

could be enabled to drink. John B. Ward happened 
to know Captain Chislhom, one of the squatters on the 
creek, and he prev^ailed upon him, to allow the poor 
animals to take their daily beverage of pure fresh water, 
and keep them from dying from thirst. 

Some of these men were very malicious, and they 
often shot and wounded horses and cattle that were 
raised on the rancho and they always did so under the 
cover of darkness. 

While the controversy with the squatters was pro- 
gressing in these exciting times of 1851, 1852, 1853 
and 1854, Mr. Ward and myself were asked by the 
lawyers of the rancho to bring them the title papers. 
Mr. Ward undertook to do so, and carried the papers 
in his breast coat pocket. On leaving the embarca- 
dero of San Leandro in a small launch, in the night, 
on his way to San Francisco he assisted the crew of 
the craft in poling and rowing through the meandering 
of the creek. While thus engaged, the papers fell out 
of his pocket into the water, and in the darkness of the 
night were lost. This created another furore by the 
enemies of the title. During all these turbulent times 
the members of the family were in constant fear of 
their personal safety. 

The family instituted several ejectment suits 
against the squatters. In each trial the jury disagreed, 
but the majority of them in each case were against the 
wrong holders of the land. Thereupon John B. Ward, 
the lawyers and myself, formed a plan, which after- 



544 MOVING A COUNTY SEAT. 

ward proved successful in bringing the squatters to 
terms. An interest in the land was ceeded to one 
Clement Boyreau, an alien. This enabled us to reach 
the jurisdiction of the United States Circuit Court. 
The squatters were sued by Boyreau in that Court. 
The trial lasted several weeks, and Judge Hoffman, 
who had been sitting with Judge McAllister during the 
trial, rendered a decision favorable to the plaintiff. 
This just verdict of the Federal Court overthrew the 
squatters. They then took leases from the family, 
pending the decision of the United States Supreme 
Court, on the appeal regarding the title proper. 

After the compromise in 1856 with the squatters, 
those that occupied the lands at Squatterville, bought 
at thirty dollars per acre one thousand acres ; terms, 
one-third cash, the remaining unpaid amount in 
one and two years in equal payments, at ten per cent, 
interest per annum. 

. In 1854 or 1855 the voters of Alameda county 
were dissatisfied with the location of the county seat at 
Alvarado, because it was not central, being within a 
short distance of the northern boundary of Santa Clara 
county. There was an election ordered for a choice of 
the county seat by popular vote. There were several 
candidates in the field, among them San Leandro, which 
succeeded over the other competitors. The county 
seat was removed from Alvarado, and the family man- 
sion was surrendered to the county for a temporary 
court-house. 



THE TOWN OF SAN LEANDRO. 545 

This Structure was subsequently destroyed by fire 
in the night. There were many conjectures by the 
people of the county as to the origin of the fire. Prob- 
ably it was the work of a vicious man, in order that 
the county seat might be removed back to i\lvarado. 
After the fire the county seat still remained at San Le- 
andro. 

The people of Alvarado eventually succeeded in 
getting back the records, through some technicality of 
the law. 

But again it was put back to San Leandro, where 
it remained for years. Subsequently there was a law 
enacted for its removal to Oakland. 

While Mr. Ward and myself were canvassing the 
county for San Leandro, a plan was submitted b> us to 
Mrs. Estudillo and her children to lay out a town for 
the coming county seat, if we were successful. San 
Leandro succeeded in the election, and a deed was ex- 
ecuted to the county by the family, of a site for the 
county buildings. Two hundred acres of land were 
also reserved and a town was mapped, which is the 
present town of San Leandro. A fine hotel was built 
by the family, and named after the founder of San Le- 
andro, " Estudillo." 

In 1856 and 1857 which were the last years of my 
management of the San Leandro, with Ward, the 
income of the rancho was more than forty thousand 
dollars yearly for rents of land. This enabled Mr. 
Ward and myself to discharge most of the liabilities 

35 



546 FRUITFUL, FERTILE LAND. 

that were incurred in our expensive litigations to recover 
the productive lands of the rancho. It thereafter pro- 
duced a large revenue to the family from the very men 
who originally were adverse to our title. When I 
ceased to be one of the business managers, I left the 
estate with more money due from the sales of land, than 
the rancho was owing for our costly lawsuits. The 
San Leandro rancho w*as considered by many good 
judges of land, the best and richest soil under the 
canopy of Heaven. The income of it was enough for 
two, yea, three Estudillo families. 



CHAPTER LIX. 

Ports in the Department where Hides were conveyed through the Surf to \-essels 
-An instance of Feminine Self-assertion, manifested by a patriotic Mexican 
Lady-An Interview with a Reporter of the San Diego i-««-The Author 
imparts Information of Occurrences at the Port of San Diego in 1831-The 
First Building and an Extensive Wharf erected at New San Diego by the 
Author in 1850-Military Necessity-The Wharf converted into Fire-wood 
by the Soldiers of the United States Army in ihe Rainy Winter of 1861-62- 
The Congress Appealed to for Compensation-The Senate Passes the Bill- 
Why no Adequate Relief was ever Granted-General Nathan Lyon gives a 
Dance and Entertainment at Military Headquarters in San Diego-An Enjoy- 
able Reunion-Fair Women and Brave Men-Correspondence relating to the 
Administration of First-Alcalde Hyde, of the District of San Francisco- 
Names of Residents at the Presidio of San Francisco, at the Mission and in 
Verba Buena, on the date of Conquest July 8, 1846. 

There were several ports I'n the department, where 
the hides were transported to the vessels from the shore 
through the surf, namely : Santa Barbara, San Luis 
Obispo, Santa Cruz and Monterey (the latter before 
the wharf was built by the government.) The ship's 
long boat was moored just outside the rollers, with two 
sailors on board to receive the cargo from the surf 
boats. The latter were hauled upon the beach out of 
the reach of the waves, and loaded, say, with ten hides 
each. The men would watch for the first, second and 
third rollers to comb and foam, and before the fourth 
made its appearance, the boats were pushed into the 
water energetically, with a man or two on board each 
to scull to the launch and unload the hides. This was 
repeated until the latter was loaded and towed to the 



54^ SURF BOATS FLYING THROUGH BREAKERS. 

ship. Between the third and fourth rollers, there is a 
lull of a minute at the most in the movements of these 
dangerous billows of the sea. The steersman of a surf 
boat, in approaching the shore, watched his opportunity 
for the fourth roller always, and guided her straight for 
the landing, and went in flying with the breaker, with 
the stern elevated to an angle with the bow of about 
thirty degrees, at a velocity of about 12 to 15 miles an 
hour, and during this exciting speed for a small boat, 
the oarsmen peaked the ends of their oars to the bottom 
of the boat whereby their outer ends were elevated 
beyond the reach of the roaring sea. All this work in 
landing and embarking for the vessels had to be done 
quickly, to avoid being swamped by non-compliance with 
the movements of the swell of the ocean, and for the 
salvation of life and property in those early days when 
wharves had not been built. But the crew and others 
of the ships, became experts with years of experience 
in voyages up and down the coast of California. 

There were other seaports on the coast from which 
the rancheros shipped hides and tallow, namely : El Cojo 
(Point Concepcion,) La Gaviota, and Refujio before 
mentioned. The Mission of San Juan Capistrano, 
about sixty miles south of Los Angeles, in the days of 
her glory in wealth, exported hides and tallow, from the 
beach known by that name and not far distant from the 
Mission. These large estates transported their produc- 
tions in the same way as I have above described. 
Occasionally the surf landings were rougher than at 



PATRIOTIC CALIFORNIA LADV. 549 

Other times, from the action of the winds. When the 
beach was very rough after a heavy wind along the 
coast, tallow in bags were put in the water and towed 
to the vessels, and dried thoroughly on deck before 
being placed in the hold. 

A native California lady named Sefiora Doiia 
Josefa Estrada de Abrigo. half-sister of Governor 
Alvarado, resided at Monterey in 1842 (where she still 
resides) at the time Commodore Jones raised the Ameri- 
can flag over that city. She was one of the most beauti- 
ful and intelligent of her sex. Like all her people, 
she felt deep chagrin that the fortunes of war should 
bring about a change which would compel her to sub- 
mit to the new order of things. 

Commodore Jones as a gentleman, aside from his 
official rank, was an acceptable visitor in the families of 
the native Californians, where he was treated with 
courtesy, which he reciprocated in kind, as one who 
fully appreciated the situation, and would not permit 
himself to be outdone in gallantry. 

One day he called at the Abrigo mansion, and 
alluded to the fine appearanceof the assembled children 
—especially extolling the manly bearing of the boys. 
Acknowledging the compliments with a smile and 
graceful obeisance, la Senora said, good naturedly, but 
with ill-concealed warmth : " I am only sorry. Commo- 
dore, my sons were not old enough to offer resistance 
when you captured our city." To which Commodore 
Jones replied: "The sentiment does you honor, 



550 OCCURRENCES AT SAN DIEGO. 

madame. As lovers of their country, it would certainly 
have been their duty to do so." Sefiora Abrigo, it may 
may be remarked, is at this writing (October, 1888,) 74 
years of age and in a remarkable state of mental and 
physical preservation. 

The writer was interviewed by a reporter of the 
San Diego Stin, in December, 1887, to whom he impart- 
ed the following information : 

" In the year 183 1, our three vessels were at La 
Playa, preparatory to one of them loading for Boston. 
It was at this time that Mr. Jones removed to the 
Presidio above Old Town, taking with him a cook from 
one of the vessels, two stewards and two servants. 
He rented a home at the Presidio, which was then 
located at the present ruins, on the eminence just above 
the palm trees in Old Town. The military headquar- 
ters and the soldiers of this department were located 
there. In fact, all the inhabitants of this section were 
living at the Presidio. It was quite a lively town. At 
our house, which was a building of six or eight rooms, 
we entertained many beautiful Spanish women at din- 
ners, and also at dancing parties. We were there 
about two or three months, and during that time one of 
the vessels in the bay was loading for Boston, 

"The location of the Presido was chosen from a 
military point of view, to protect the citizens of this 
miniature city, from the ferocious and savage Indians 
of those days. In the town the inhabitants, soldiers 
and citizens numbered between 400 and 500. Quite a 



OCCURRENCES AT SAN DIEGO. 551 

large place. There was a great deal of gaiety and re- 
finement here. The people were the elite of this por- 
tion of the department of California. In the garrison 
were some Mexican and not a few native Spanish 
soldiers. What is now called Old Town, was at that 
date laid out, but was not built for some time thereafter. 
Whenever a ship came to anchor at La Playa, saddle 
horses were at once dispatched from the Presidio to 
bring up the supercargo and captain. The voyage of 
these vessels from Boston, usually occupied from one 
hundred .and fifty to one hundred and seventy-five days. 
Monterey being the seat of government of California, 
and the port of entry of the department, all vessels were 
compelled to enter that port first. After paying the 
necessary duties, they were allowed to trade at any of 
the towns along the coast, as far south as Lower Cali- 
fornia. 

" I returned to the coast in the Boston bark " Don 
Quixote," Captain John Paty, in 1838, havmg been ab- 
sent about two years. Afterwards I became supercargo 
of the same vessel. During my two years' absence, 
the town (or Presidio) on the hill gradually changed its 
location to where Old Town now exists. The popu- 
lation was about the same, with possibly a natural in- 
crease. The rancheros of the vicinity usually kept 
their families at the Presidio as a protection against the 
Indians. 

" P>om 1838 to the present time I have been a res- 
ident of California. 



552 



OCCURRE^XES AT SAN DIEGO. 



" Of the new town of San Diego, now the city of 
San Diego, I can say that I was its founder. In 1850, 
the American and Mexican commissions, appointed to 
estabhsh the boundary Hne, were at Old Town. An- 
drew B. Gray, the chief engineer and surveyor for the 
United States, who was with the commission, intro- 
duced himself to me one day at Old Town. In Febru- 
ary, 1850, he explained to me the advantages of the 
locality known as " Punta de los Muertos " (Point of 
the dead), from the circumstance that in the year 1787 
a Spanish squadron anchored within a stone's throw of 
the present site of the city of San Diego. During the 
stay of the fleet, surveying the bay of San Diego for 
the first time, several sailors and marines died and were 
interred on a sand spit, adjacent to where my wharf 
stood, and was named as above. The piles of my 
structure are still imbedded in the sands, as if there had 
been premeditation to mark them as the tomb-marks of 
those deceased early explorers of the Pacific ocean and 
of the inlet of San Diego, during the days of Spain's 
greatness. I have seen "Punta de los Muertos" on 
Pantoja's chart of his explorations of the waters of the 
Pacific. 

" Messrs. Jose Antonio Aguirre, Miguel de Pedro- 
rena, Andrew B. Gray, T. D. Johns and myself were 
the projectors and original proprietors of what is now 
known as the city of San Diego. All my co-pro- 
prietors have since died, and I remain alone of the 
party, and am a witness of the marvellous events and 



A VALUABLE WHARF CONFISCATED. 553 

changes that have since transpired in this vicinity 
during more than a generation. 

" The first building in new San Diego was put up 
by myself as a private residence. The building still 
stands, being known as the San Diego hotel. I also 
put up a number of other houses. The cottage built 
by Andrew B. Gray is still standing, and is called " The 
Hermitage." George F. Hooper also built a cottage, 
which is still standing near my house in new San Diego. 
Under the conditions of our deed, we were to build a 
substantial wharf and warehouse. The other proprie- 
tors of the town deeded to me their interest in Block 
20, where the wharf was to be built. The wharf was 
completed in six months after getting our title in 
March, 1850, at a cost of $60,000. The piles of the 
old wharf are still to be seen on the old wharf site in 
Block 20. At that time I predicted that San Diego 
would become a great commercial seaport, from its fine 
geographical position and from the fact that it was the 
only good harbor south of San Francisco. Had it not 
been for our civil war, railroads would have reached 
here years before Stanford's road was built, for our 
wharf was ready for business." 

In connection with this subject, it will be proper 
here to relate the following brief story. In the winter 
of 1861-62 unusually heavy rains fell in San Diego 
County, being thirty inches, the average fall for that 
section of the State being nine inches. 

There were collected together six hundred or seven 
hundred soldiers of the United States Army, at the 



554 AN APPROPRIATION DEMANDED. 

military depot in San Diego, from Arizona to go East, 
and from the East and San Francisco to go to Arizona, 
to guard the territory against the confederates. During 
those unparalled storms, the country around the depot 
became miry and the travel for heavy teaming impos- 
sible. The fuel at the soldiers' quarters gave out, and 
there was no way to replenish the supply for the troops, 
to keep them alive with warm food. My wharf and 
warehouse were still in existence near the depot, and 
earning me several hundred dollars per month for wharf- 
age and storage. The commanding officer of the post 
decided to use my property for fire-wood, as a military 
necessity. Being war time, it was demolished for that 
purpose, and I lost my income. 

A few years after the occurrence, I went to work 
and collected evidence, in connection with the destruc- 
tion of the wharf and warehouse. I appealed to Congress 
with the facts I had obtained for compensation fo rmy 
loss. The Senate passed a bill unanimously, appropriat- 
ing sixty thousand dollars as my pay; but it was defeated 
in the House. At last. Congress enacted a law creat- 
ing General Saxton (Quartermaster-General of the Paci- 
fic Coast) as a Commissioner, to take testimony in Cali- 
fornia. Several sessions were held in San Francisco ; 
also three or four at San Diego, where the property 
was located. The testimony before the Commissioner 
was overwhelming in my behalf. After these proceed- 
ings the claim was before the House, Congress after 
Congress, asking that body to appropriate a just and 



SETTLEMENT AT TEN CENTS ON THE DOLLAR. 555 

equitable amount, under the Commissioner's investiga- 
tion and report, for my reimbursement. In 1884-85 I 
was voted $6,000 in full payment for the sixty thousand 
dollars, which the Senate had allowed. While I was 
in Washington attending to the matter, a member of 
Congress remarked to me one day: — "The Govern- 
ment has the power to take your property, and you 
get your pay the best way you can, if you ever get it." 
This was said by the gentleman in a general way. 

The depot block which I have mentioned above 
was donated to the government, by the original proprie- 
tors of New San Diego, at my suggestion, together 
with another block of land adjacent to the depot, and a 
wharf privilege for all time. The real estate has become 
very valuable, as well as the water property, since the 
rapid growth of the city next to Mexico, on the water 
front of California. 

Speaking of the old historic building, at the mili- 
tary headquarters, which has been the receptacle for 
government stores since the year 1850 : The lamented 
General Nathan Lyon of our civil war times, was quar- 
ter-master during the construction of the building. On 
its completion Captain Lyon said to me one evening : 
" I am going to give a baile at the building, with the 
aid of my brother officers. Will you assist me to get 
up the amusements ?" I replied, " Certainly, I will help 
you with pleasure." Captain Santiaquito Arguello was 
selected to invite the fair sex, from the old town, from 
the ranchos, and from the city of the angels. The 



55^ ARMY HEADQUARTERS IN SAN DIEGO. 

assemblage of women constituted the elite of San Diego 
and Los Angeles, which places were noted in early 
times for their handsome women. The party dispersed 
in the early hours of morning, guided by the dim light 
of a constellation to their homes. Thus terminated an 
enjoyable reunion more than a generation since. 

Some three or four years since, I met General 
Vallejo, in the court-yard of the Palace Hotel, convers- 
ing with a few intelligent-looking American tourists. I 
remarked to him on his youthful appearance, for a man 
of his ripe age. He said he was the living patriarch 
of his countrymen, many of whom have passed away at 
great ages. "Yes, General," I_said, " I well remember 
seeing you at the Presidio of San Francisco in 1833. 
You were then the comandante of that military post — 
a young soldier in the Mexican army." The General, 
addressing the strangers, told of his sports of early days. 
He said right where we all stood, he lassoed a large 
bear with his reata. He was noted for his horsemanship 
among the rancheros of the department. The listeners 
from the East looked at the General with a good deal 
of curiosity. They were astonished that the man who 
stood before them, was an actor in the exciting scenes 
of the primitive days of the Golden State at Yerba 
Buena, which was then only inhabited by the wild 
beasts of the forest. Now look back two generations, 
and see at the site of the incident above named, the 
magnificent Palace Hotel and its beautiful surround- 
ings. 



ALCALDE HYDES ADMINISTRATION. 557 

Inasmuch as the reputation of Mr. Hyde was in- 
volved in the charges made against hini while he 
served as alcalde of San Francisco in 1847, and as he, 
like all gentlemen with a high sense of honor, feels 
sensitive in the matter, I have granted him the space 
in these pages to give his own statement concerning 
the charges and the attending circumstances. It is 
as follows : 

"A ring had been formed which induced Mr. 
Edwin Bryant, my predecessor in office, to arbitrarily 
'make changes and alterations in the surveys, pending 
the act of making old surveys rectangular, thereby 
breaking his own contract with the citizens and injur- 
ing some to oblige thisring; all of which was proved 
when the first charge against me to this effect was be- 
fore the commission. Immediately after I assumed 
office, in June, 1847, this party approached me to se- 
cure similar results. I was solicited to cause the sur- 
vey of the 100 vara lots on the south side of Market 
street, to be moved forty feet further south, in order to 
make certain lots they desired to procure, south of 
of Howard or Folsom street, more eligible, by lifting 
them out of the boggy location ; and also to make a 
block of land at the junction of Bush and Battery, or 
thereabout, more eligible for business purposes. I de- 
clined, because it would be an arbitrary act and injure 
many persons who already had vested rights. I was 
also asked to change the survey of the water and beach 
lots, by making the lots into slips of 50 varas wide — 



55^ ALCALDE Hyde's administration. 

streets intervening from the beach out to ship channel. 
This was also refused, because the survey, as fixed by 
Mr. Bryant, was nearly completed. I soon after this 
became the object of frequent anonymous attacks from 
the California Star, which culminated in the charges 
concocted and preferred, and which, so far as they 
went, were triumphantly disproved. They were actu- 
ally turned against my assailants, for the whole matter 
was well understood in its correct light by the entire 
community. I was opposed to the sale of the water 
and beach lots, as granted by General Kearney, and 
sought to influence the Governor to allow a postpone- 
ment, but I, being in office by military appointment, 
had to obey orders, and the lots were sold as surveyed. 
C. L. Ross, under his name, bought a number of lots 
for individuals who were members of the r/;^^ previously 
referred to. Their first effort was to get rid of paying 
the customary fees for recording the deeds. Coached 
as to the objections he was to interpose, Ross urged 
many silly reasons for refusing to pay. and finally sub- 
mitted the matter to the Town Council, which body de- 
cided in my favor. Ross still persisted in refusing to 
pay, and I agreed to leave the matter to Hombres Bu- 
enos (arbitrators), each selecting one, and these two the 
third. Mr. Ross, after a few days, informed the alcalde 
that he had selected Mr. Folsom. On the following 
day the true state of the case was discovered. Folsom 
was one of the actual purchasers ; and of course no de- 
cision was ever reached. Putting all these things to- 



ALCALDE Hyde's administration. 559 

gather, it is very easily seen who of my assailants 
had motives for defacing maps, preferring charges, 
etc. ; and likewise to perceive zuhy the committe bring- 
ing the charges refused to appear before the commis- 
sioners to continue proceedings. They well knew that 
a further exposure would consign them to ruin and 

the contempt of the public. 

George Hyde." 

The annexed letters are literally copied in vindica- 
tion of Alcalde Hyde : 
''To George Hyde, 1- Alcalde: 

Sir: I acknowledge the receipt of your letter of 
yesterday evening enclosing a copy of a letter purport- 
ing to be a letter from the Town Council to the Governor 
together with his reply thereto, and also your several 
requests to which I respectfully return the following : 
I was not present at any meeting of the Town Council 
sitting as Commissioners to investigate the Charges pre- 
ferred against you by a Committee of Citizens, nor has 
there been any such meeting publicly held since Decem- 
ber last. Consequently I am not aware of the subject 
having been entertained ; but have heard that the de- 
termination you allude to, soliciting the Governor to 
remove you, was made by the four members whose 
names you have mentioned, at a secret meeting which 
I was not invited to attend. I have not been officially 
called on to sit in my capacity as commissioner to 
investigate since last December, nor has there been an 
official meeting of the board. But four of the ten 



560 ALCALDE HYDE's ADMINISTRATION. 

charges have as yet been entertained, and I know 
that you have repeatedly soHcited the board to cause 
them to be brought to a speedy determination. Through- 
out the entire proceedings, and up to the present time, 
the Gentlemen whose names you mentioned have pub- 
licly expressed in my hearing that the Committee 
preferring the Charges have completely failed to prove 
them and that its proceedings were a perfect humbug ; 
two of the persons preferring the charges have also 
admitted that fact in my presence, one saying that he 
wished he had never had anything to do with it, the 
other that he would not bother himself any more about 
it. I am very Respectfully, 

Your Obt. Servant, 

W. S. Clark. 
San Francisco, March 20, 1848." 

*' San Francisco, July 16, 1855. 
Geo. Hyde, Esq. 

Sir: I rec'd yours of the 25th June, in regard 
your question when Alcalde in 1847. I was chairman 
of a committee of the Town Council of San Francisco, 
to investigate the charges preferred against you, and in 
respect to the first interrogation, I say that it is not 
true they were established by proof To the second, 
that, by the testimony, you fully and completely exoner- 
ated yourself from all responsibility. 
Yours Respect, 

Robert A. Parker." 



LATITUDE IN PROSECUTING CHARGES. 56 1 

"San Mateo, July 23rd, 1855. 

My Dear Sir : I received your note of June 25th 

requesting an answer to two interrogatories therein 

contained concerning certain charges preferred against 

you whilst alcalde. I say that the two charges as 

examined, were not established by proof. In reply to 

the second, I say that in my opinion you did clearly 

exonerate yourself from all culpability, and it was so 

generally understood at the time. Yours truly, 

W. D. M. Howard. 
Geo. Hyde, Esq." 

"San Francisco, August 4, 1855, 
Dear Sir : Your note dated 25th June last, came 
to hand a day or two ago; this must be my apology for 
the delay occasioned. With regard to the charges 
preferred against you in 1847, I will take the liberty of 
saying, that it was well understood then, that they were 
preferred by a few individuals merely for the purpose 
of gratifying personal animosity. Some nine or ten 
charges were forwarded to the Council by the Governor, 
only two of which underwent an examination ; and the 
committee who conducted the prosecution of them 
had every latitude allowed them, not only by the Coun- 
cil but by you also. The first charge was commenced on 
the 25th Octo., and concluded on the eveningof the first 
Nov. 1847. Some four or five evenings of a couple of 
hours each being the time employed. From this last date, 
until about the third of December following, when the 
second charge was entertained and concluded at one 

36 



562 NO BLAME ATTACHED TO MR. HYDE. 

sitting, no meeting of the Council, as examiners, was 
held. After that, the whole affair was viewed as a 
farce by the public ; was considered as abandoned, in- 
asmuch as frequent meetings were called at your solici- 
tation, to which the Committee prosecuting the charges 
invariably failed to attend. It was about the first of 
March, 1848, when two members of the Council, in a 
secret manner, on their own responsibility, occasioned 
by personal feeling (originating in a matter entirely 
foreign to the matter of the charges,) opened a corres- 
pondence with Gov. Mason, alleging that the charges 
were admitted by you to be true, and hence recom- 
mended your removal, which the Gov^ refused to do. 
As a matter of justice to you I will add that I was 
present at all the meetings and I distinctly declare that 
you never made any admission of the kind whatever ; 
the character of the testimony was such as clearly ex- 
culpated you from all blame. To your interrogatory 
then, is it true that either one or both of the charges 
examined before the Council were held to be es- 
tablished by proof ? — I declare that it is not true. I 
distinctly and positively assert that you maintained your 
innocence, and vindicated your fair fame throughout 
the whole affair, and that too by all the testimony taken. 
I am, sir, with sincere respect. 

Very truly yours, &c., 

W. S. Clark. 

To George Hyde, San Francisco." 



INHABITANTS OF VERBA BUENA. 563 

Eight or ten years since I prepared a list of the 
inhabitants of Yerba Buena, Mission Dolores and 
Presidio in 1846, which comprised the district of San 
Francisco, and the same was published in the Morning 
Call. Shortly after the article appeared in print I met 
the late Hall McAllister on Montgomery street one 
forenoon, and he stopped me to say that he had read the 
article referred to in the Call, and had filed among his 
legal archives three of the newspapers as part of his 
large record of legal matters. The same are doubtless 
now in existence as part of the mass of records, the ac- 
cumulation of many years of his brilliant and success- 
ful practice in the profession that he loved. 

The following is a similar list of names in the three 
villages above named on the day in July, 1846, that the 
Mexican Eagle was displaced by the Stars and Stripes, 
by Captain Montgomery of the United States Navy. 
In the preparation of the names of the early residents 
at the time the government was changed, I have been 
very careful to omit none of the people that lived in 
the district; and I have revised the published list : — 

VERBA BUENA. 

Nathan Spear (retired from business on account of 
ill health), Mrs. Nathan Spear, two servants. 

Mrs. Susanna Martinez Hinckley, and one servant. 
William M. Smith, Auctioneer. 
Captain Eliab Grimes, Capitalist. 



564 INHABITANTS OF VERBA BUENA. 

John Vioget, Maria Montero, his wife, two child- 
ren and one servant. 

Jose Venavidas. 

William A. Leidesdorff, merchant and real estate 
owner, and one servant. 

Jack Fuller, Chona Linares, his wife, two daugh- 
ters, two sons and two servants. 

W. D. M. Howard (merchant), and three servants. 

Henry Melius, Merchant. 

Wm. R. Basham, Clerk to Melius & Howard. 

Seregee (young Russian), clerk to Leidsdorff 

Jose Jesus Noe, last alcalde under the Mexican 
regime. 

Dona Guadalupe, wife of Jose Jesus Noe, four 
sons and two daughters (who were all small children) 
and four servants. 

Miguel Noe, son of ex-Alcalde Noe. 

Francisco Ramirez (Chilean), Trader. 

Trinidad Moya (Mexican), Trader. 

Grigorio Escalante (Manila), Baker. 

Juana Briones de Miranda, first settler in Yerba 
Buena, who is still living on her large tract of land in 
Mayfield, Santa Clara County, at the advanced age of 
four-score and ten years ; two sons and three daughters 
— small children. 

Polinario Miranda (husband of the former), and 
three servants. 

Presentacion Miranda de Ridley and one servant. 

Robert Ridley (husband of the former), Lessee of 
Violet's Hotel. 



INHABITANTS OF VERBA BUENA. 565 

John Evans, wife, three sons and three daughters. 

Tomas Miranda. 

John Baywood (known by the name of John 
Cooper), wife and son. 

John SuHivan, wood cutter and dealer, and two 
very young brothers, 

Peter Sherbeck and wife. 

R. M. Sherman. 

WilHam Heath Davis (merchant), and two servants. 

Josiah Belden. 

Henry Neal, clerk to Melius & Howard. 

George Glidding, formerly clerk to bark " Tasso." 

Henry Richardson, formerly clerk to bark " Ster- 
ling." 

Josefa Venavidas, daughter of Mrs Vioget. 

Josefa Montero, sister of Mrs. Vioget. 

H. F. Teschemacher, clerk to Henry Melius' bark 
" Tasso," and afterwards agent for the same vessel. 

Joseph P. Thompson, clerk to Melius & Howard. 

Mrs. John C. Davis, wife of John C, Davis. 

John C. Davis (and one servant), William J. Rey- 
nolds (Chino), John Rose, John Finch (tinker), ship- 
wrights, housebuilders and blacksmiths. 

Benito Diaz (Custoni- House officer), wife, three 
small children and mother-in-law. 

John Thompson, Blacksmith. 

Mrs. Montgomery ; afterwards married Talbot H. 
Green alias Paul Geddes. 

Charles E. Pickett. 



566 INHABITANTS OF VERBA BUENA. 

George Denecke, Baker. 

Vicente Miramontes, wife and six children. 

Francisca Vidal. 

Charles Meyer, clerk to Leidesdorff. 

Rafael Vidal. 

Francisco el Negro, Cook (Peruvian.) 

John el Negro, Pastryman. 

Carmel Tadeo, Washerwoman. 

Bias Tadeo. 

Bias Angelino, Wood Cutter. 

Juan Agramon, Wood Cutter. 

Juan Bernal and Chona Soto, bis wife. 

Victor Prudon and Teodosia Boronda, his wife, 

Marcella Boronda, sister of Mrs. Prudon. 

Antonio Ortega and Chica Garcia, his wife. 

Antonio Buhan (Peruvian), Gambler. 

Mary Bennett, husband and four children. 

Daniel Sill, Miller and Hunter. 

Charles Clein, Proprietor of Saloon. 

Alexander Leavett, Carpenter. 

Juan Lara, Shoemaker. 

A. A. Andrews, builder, and Rosalia Haro, his wife, 
two children and one servant. 

Thos. Smith (Smith & Co.), Proprietor of Saloon. 

Maria Antonia Valle de Dawson, owner of land 
near the Blucher Rancho. 

Guadalupe Berreyesa, grantee to a large tract of 
land. 

J. H. Brown, Saloon-keeper. 



i 



INHABITANTS OF MISSION DOLORES. 567 

William Johnson, owner of schooners in the bay 
of San Francisco. 

John Ackerman, clerk to W. A. Leidesdorft. 

MISSION DOLORES. 

Padre Real, of the Mission San Francisco de Asis. 

Francisco Guerrero, Sub-Prefect of the District of 
San Francisco. 

Josefa Haro, wife of Francisco Guerrero, two sons 
and two servants. 

Francisco de Haro,' Ex-Alcalde. 

Miliana Sanchez, wife of Francisco de Haro. 

Francisco de Haro, Jun. 

Ramon de Haro. 

Natividad Haro. 

Prudencio and Alonzo Haro, small children and 
two servants of the household. 

Tiburcio Vasquez, mayor-domo. Mission Dolores. 

Alvina Hernandez, wife of Tiburcio Vasquez, eight 
children and two servants. 

Candelario Valencia. (Valencia street is named after 
him.) 

Paula Sanchez, wife of Candelario Valencia, and 
two servants. 

Eustacio Valencia. 

Jose Ramon Valencia. 

Lucia Valencia. 

Tomasa Valencia. 

Francisco Valencia. 



568 INHABITANTS OF MISSION DOLORES. 

Jose Jesus Valencia and Julia Sanchez, his wife. 

Rosa Valencia. 

Amadeo Valencia. 

Catalina Valencia, second wife of Jose Jesus Noe. 

Leandro Galindo and Dominga Sotelo, his wife. 

Nazario Galindo. 

Josefa Galindo. 

Seferino Galindo. 

Benerito Galindo. 

Henaro Galindo. 

Maria Galindo. 

Antonia Galindo. 

Manuela Galindo. 

Chino Sanchez and Jesus Alvisu, his wife, five 
small daughters. 

Isabel Sanchez. 

Jose Gomez and Eusavia Galindo, his wife. 

Guadalupe Gomez, female. 

Bernardino Garcia, married to Mrs. Hilaria Read. 

Hilaria Sanchez Read, of Read's rancho in Marin 
County. 

John Read, of Read's rancho, Marin County. 

Hilarita Read, of Read's rancho, Marin County. 

Carmel Cibrian de Bernal. 

Bruno Valencia and Bernarda Duarte, his wife, 
and four children. 

Militon Valencia. 

Felipe Soto. 

Jose Santa Maria, Secretary to Sub-Prefect 
Guerrero. 



INHABITANTS OF MISSION AND PRESIDIO. 569 

Agustiii Davila and Jesus Feliz, his wife, and two 
children. 

Agustin Davila, Junior. 

Tutiana Avila. 

Dolores Avila. 

Magin Feliz. 

Torivio Tanforan (Peruvian) and Maria Valencia, 
his wife, and seven children. 

Jose Cornelio Bernal, husband of Carmel Cibrian. 

Jose Jesus Bernal. 

Angel Alvisu and Josefa Sotelo, his wife. 

Ysidora Jalapa. 

Rafaela Jalapa. 

Mariano Jalapa. 

PRESIDIO. 

Dona Guadalupe Briones de Miramontes. 

Candelario Miramontes, her husband. 

Ygnacio Miramontes. 

Rodulfo Miramontes. 

Alsiano Miramontes. 

Raymundo Miramontes. 

Jose de los Santos Miramontes. 

Juan Jose Miramontes. 

Doiia Luz Briones, who is still living at the great 
age of mt)re than a century ; with her sister Dona 
Juana Briones de Miranda, at Mayfield, Santa Clara 
County. 

Dolores Miramontes. 



570 INHABITANTS OF PRESIDIO. 

Ramona Miramontes. . 

Manuel Pefia (an old soldier of the Mexican army) 
and Guadalupe, his wife. 

Dolores Pena. 

Maria de Los Angeles Pena. 

Carmel Pena 

Maria Peiia. 

Antonia Peiia. 

Francisco Pefia. 

Husevio Soto, (an old artilleryman of the Spanish 
and Mexican armies, with the rank of Corporal) and 
Martina Mendoza, his wife and three children. 

Marta Soto. 

Francisco Soto. 

Joaquin Pena (an old soldier of the Spanish and 
Mexican armies, with the rank of Corporal) and Eusta- 
quia Mojica, his wife. 

Jose de la Cruz Pefia. 



CHAPTER LX. 

First Chinaman in California — Second Arrival of Chinese — Observations by Mr. 
McDermett — Observations by Mr. Leeds — Chinese Encroachment — Chinese 
Immorality — Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson's Regiment of one thousand New 
York Volunteer Soldiers, a portion of the United States Army of Occupation, 
Arrives at San Francisco in the month of March, 1847 — Roster of the com- 
missioned and non-commissioned Officers of the Regiment. 

I have mentioned previously that I was on my 
way from Santa Cruz when the national, standard was 
hoisted on the 8th of July, 1846. I arrived only a day or 
two after the occurrence. My name appears on the 
list of the inhabitants of Yerba Buena on the day the 
American flag waved over the little village for the 
first time, this place having been my residence for 
many years. 

Several years anterior to 1838 there was a China- 
man on board the brig " Bolivar," Captain Nye, as a 
servant in the cabin, and he remained on the coast dur- 
ing the stay of the vessel. Probably this man of the 
Celestial Empire was the first that visited California 
until the commencement of 1848. 

The American brig " Eagle " arrived here from 
Canton, China, on the 2d of February, 1848, with two 
Chinamen and a Chinawoman, who were looked upon 
as curiosities by some of the inhabitants of the grow- 
ing town of San Francisco, who had never seen people 
of that nationality before. During the winter of 1848 
and 1849 it was observable that Chinamen were multi- 



572 SECOND ARRIVAL OF CHINESE. 

plying by immigration rapidly. The Mongolians soon 
availed themselves, in the new field, of their pro rata 
of the large business that was being done here during 
the gold excitement. At that particular time there was 
no expression of alarm from the people of San Fran- 
cisco that the Chinese would overrun the city of the bay 
and the State of California. 

In 1 88 1 and 1882 while I was in the capital of the 
nation I became acquainted with John McDermett, a 
resident and capitalist of Washington, and I frequented 
his home, and in those visits I made to him and his 
family, he and myself would often get into discussions 
over the unacceptable immigration from China to the 
State of California. He thought, from a humane stand- 
point, the people of California were, as a class, too 
harsh and severe in their treatment of the Mongolians. 
Of course, during our arguments I opposed all sugges- 
tions in behalf of the Chinamen, but I could never con- 
vince him that their presence was demoralizing to the 
youthfulpeopleoftheyoung State, and that they had been 
extracting millions of gold continuosly for many years. 
About three years ago Mr. McDermett came to Cali- 
fornia for the first time, to visit a married daughter re- 
siding in the city, and viewed many points of interest 
in the State of perpetual flowers. One day I said to 
him that I would be pleased to devote one or two days 
in showing him the city. We visited Chinatown, and 
I took him into basements and cellars which were in- 
habited by Chinese, and the smell from the filth that 



OBSERVATIONS BY MR. MCDERMETT. 573 

surrounded their habitations was so offensive that he 
and I were glad to retreat to the street above us and 
into the pure air. From Washington street I called 
my friend's attention to both sides of Stockton street, 
which were once the residences of capitalists and mer- 
chants of the town, which were now populated by the 
Mongolians the whole line of the street from California 
to south side of Broadway, When we crossed the lat- 
ter street, and got out of the Chinese quarters, north- 
ward, Mr. McDermett remarked: "This portion of 
Stockton street is an American town." 

The Eastern tourist became satisfied and con- 
vinced that this class of people was injurious to the 
prosperity of California, morally and commercially. 

I have been favored with the following item upon 
the Chinese influence in San Francisco by Mr. S. P. 
Leeds, editor of the Commercial Record, which is an 
expression of his observation of the detrimental effect 
of the Mongolian upon the morality of our population: 
" The influx of the Chinese began before 1838, with 
a single Mongolian as stated previously by yourself. 
It has steadily increased, until now there are probably 
several hundred thousand in the United States. At 
first, while few in numbers, they were docile, meek and 
subservient. They would give the entire sidewalk to 
every man of other nationalities whom they met. They 
entered into menial services and did the best they 
could. Thiy were moderately honest and strictly 
attentive to their industries. Bui as ihc ir numbers 



574 OBSERVATIONS BY MR. LEEDS. 

increased they began to display their natural disposi- 
tions, and they passed from petty pilferings to robberies; 
from light dissipations to sensualities ; from praise- 
worthy neatness to uncleanliness ; from little assaults to 
murders ; from willing workers to aribitrary usurpers 
of many industries. In this latter case they over-esti- 
mated their power, and threatened to quit work in some 
factories, unless all white employes should be dis- 
charged. This action aroused such a storm of resentful 
indignation that they dropped the subject. They 
have taken another course and are running factories, in 
which only Chinese find employment. 

As an illustration- the following incident is narrated. 
A manufacturer of bird cages finding that he could 
employ Chinese at less wages than he paid white men, 
took two or three of them into his factory. After a 
while one of them left, under pretence of going to China ; 
but recommended his cousin as a good steady fellow to 
fill his place, which was given to him. The same 
method was adopted by another of them with the same 
result. This occurred. several times, as fast as chose 
employed had learned the art of making bird cages. 
During this time they had found out where the employer 
procured his materials and who were his customers. 
They started a factory in Chinatown and offered their 
cages to the dealers at a great reduction in price from 
what they had been paying. ' The manufacturer finding 
his sales rapidly falling off, went among his customers 
to learn the cause, and discovered that his false economy 



FALSE ECONOMY CELESTIAL ENCROACHMENT. 575 

in hiring Chinese had ruined his business, and he had 
soon after to close it and seek some other occupation. 
This will be the final result to all trades in which the 
Chinese are given work, for the same reason. 

They have the control of the manufacture of cigars, 
shoes and slippers ; common clothing ; six or eight 
jewelry establishments, several hardware stores, numer- 
ous express wagons ; and have recently invaded the 
higher branches of commerce by becoming exporters 
of American products to China markets : and soon no 
flour will be shipped there except by them. This de- 
prives the mill men of a profitable branch of their 
business, which will be more seriously felt when the 
Chinese execute their intended purpose of building a 
large flouring mill. They have also established a 
marine Insurance Company, and will, unless they are 
kept out of the country, in time obtain the control of 
all branches of business, the same as they have done in 
Manila. 

Their immorality is of the most iniquitous charac- 
ter. They are regardless of female virtue, and take 
especial delight in inducing young girls into their prem- 
ises for the most flagrant purposes. Their brothels 
are boldly open upon some streets, where boys are ruined 
for life by visiting those abominable haunts. 

Regardless of human life, they would to-day, if 
they knew themselves to be powerful enough to escape 
the vengeance which should follow the deed, murder 
every white man and boy in the city, and only spare 



576 CHINESE IMMORALITY. 

the women and. girls for a fate worse than death. They 
have been a curse to every country where they have 



gained a foothold." 



Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson was in command 
of the New York regiment of one thousand volunteer 
soldiers, which was sent by the United States Govern- 
ment to California, with the following officers attached 
thereto, namely : 

FIELD OFFICERS. 

Colonel, J. D. Stevenson. 
Lieutenant-Colonel, Henry S. Burton. 
INIajor, James A. Hardie. 

STAFF OFFICERS. 

Surgeon, Alexander Perr)\ 

Asst. Surgfeon, Robert Murrav. 

Asst. Surgeon, William C. Parker. 

Captain William G. Macy, Commissar)^ 

Lieutenant J. C. Bonnycastle, Adjutant. 

Captain Joseph L. Folsom, Asst. Quarter-master. 

NON'-COMMISSIOXED STAFF. 

Sergeant-Major, Alexander C. McDonald. 
Quarter-master Sergeant, Stephen Harris. 



NEW YORK REGIMENT. 577 

Quarter-master Sergeant, Georore G. Belt. 
Quarter-master Sergeant, James C. Low. 

sutler's department. 

Sutler, Samuel W. Haight. 
Clerk, James C. L. Wadsworth. 

COMPANY A, 

Captain, SeymDur G. Steele. 
Lieutenant, George S. Penrose. 
Lieutenant, Charles B. Young. 
Lieutenant, George F. Lemon. 
Sergeant, Sherman O. Houghton. 
Sergeant, Walter Chipman. 
Sergeant, Edward Irwin. 

COMPANY B. 

Captain, Turner. 

Lieutenant, Henry C. Matsell. 
Lieutenant, Thomas E. Ketchum. 
Lieutenant, E. Gould Buffum. 
Sergeant, James Stayton. 
Sergeant, Charles C. Scott. 
Sergeant, John Wilt. 
Sergeant, Charles Richardson. 
Sergeant, James D. Denneston. 

COMPANY c. 

Captain, J. E. Brackett. 
Lieutenant, Per Lee R. Theron. 
37 



578 NEW YORK REGIMENT. 

Lieutenant, Thomas J. Roach. 
Lieutenant, Charles C. Anderson. 
Lieutenant, Wm. R. Tremmels, (Died off Cape 
Horn.) 

Lieutenant, Georg-e D. Brewerton. 
Sergeant, Edmund P. Crosby. 
Sergeant, WilHam Johnson. 
Sergeant, George Robinson. 

COMPANY D. 

Captain, Henry M. Naglee. 
Lieutenant, George A. Pendleton. 
Lieutenant, Hiram W. Theall. 
Lieutenant, Joseph C. Morehead. 
Sergeant, Aaron Lyons. 
Sergeant, William Roach. 
Sergeant, Henry J. Wilson. 

COMPANY E. 

Captain, Nelson Taylor. 
Lieutenant, Edward Williams. 
Lieutenant, William E. Cuttrell. 
Lieutenant, Thomas L. Vermule. 
Sergeant, John M. O'Neil. 
Sergeant, Henry S. Morton. 
Sergeant, James Maneis. 
Sergeant, Abraham Van Riper. 

COMPANY F. 

Captain, Francis J. Lippitt. 
Lieutenant, Henry Storrow Carnes. 



NEW YORK REGIMENT. 579 

Lieutenant, William H. Weirick. 
Lieutenant, John M. Huddart. 
Sergeant, James Queen. 
Sergeant, Thomas Hipwood. 
Sergeant, James Mulvey. 
Sergeant, John C. Pulis. 

COMPANY G. 

Captain, Matthew R. Stevenson. 
Lieutenant, John McH. HolHngsworth. 
Lieutenant, Jeremiah Sherwood. 
Lieutenant, William H. Smith. 
Sergeant, Walter Taylor. 
Sergeant, William B. Travers. 
Sergeant, James Mehan. 
Sergeant, John Connell. 
Sergeant, George Jackson. 

CONPANY II. 

Captain, John B. Frisbie. 
Lieutenant, Ed\Yard Gilbert. 
Lieutenant, John S. Day. 
Sergeant, Eleazer Frisbie. 
Sergeant, William Grow. 
Sergeant, Henry A. Schoolscraft. 
Sergeant, James Winne. 

COMPANY J. 

Captain, William E. Shannon. 
Lieutenant, Henry Magee. 



580 REGIMENT AT RIO JANEIRO. 

Lieutenant, Palmer B. Hewlett. 
Sergeant, Joseph Evans. 
Sergeant, Joshua S. Vincent. 
Sergeant, B. Logan. 

COMPANY K. 

Captain, Kimball H. Dimmick. 
Lieutenant, John S. Norris. 
Lieutenant, George C. Hubbard. 
Lieutenant, Roderick M. Morrison. 
Sergeant, Jackson Sellers. 

CHAPLAIN, 

Rev. T. M. Leavenworth. 

The regiment sailed from New York on Septem- 
ber the 26th, 1846, in three transports of about eight 
hundred tons burden each, namely : "Thomas H. Per- 
kins," Captain James Arthur, (fornierly of the " Cali- 
fornia," a hide ship) ; ship "Loo Choo," Captain Hatch^ 
(formerly of the " Barnstable," also a hide ship), and 
ship " Susan Drew," Captain , for San Fran- 
cisco. The troops were equally divided among the 
vessels. After leaving New York, the three ships 
soon parted company and were out of sight of each 
other until their arrival at Rio Janeiro, where they re- 
mained ten days. 

On Colonel Stevenson's arrival at Rio Janeiro, he 
found an American naval squadron in port. While he 
was preparing to salute the squadron's flag, the captain 



COMPLICATIONS AT RIO JANEIRO. 58 1 

of the port came on board and asked Col. Stevenson 
if he was intending to salute the Brazilian flag. The 
Colonel replied that he was not, but was preparing to 
salute the flag of the squadron. Then the captain of 
the port asked if he would exchange salutes, to which 
the Colonel replied he would do so with pleasure. 

After the salute to the American flaor was fired, 
the Colonel sent Captain Folsom to the flag-ship of the 
squadron to inform the Commodore that he was in com- 
mand of the New York regiment on its way to Califor- 
nia ; and also, that he intended to salute the Brazilian 
flag. The Commodore said that there was no inter- 
course between the Brazilian government, and the 
American Minister and himself. That as Colonel 
Stevenson was in command of his regiment, he could 
do what seemed best, but the relations were some- 
what strained between our representatives and that 
government. When Captain Folsom returned, Colonel 
Stevenson sent an officer on shore, to the captain of 
the port to inform him that he declined to fire the 
promised salute to the Brazilian government. The 
justification of declining to salute the Brazilian flag was 
the severe criticism which had been passed upon certain 
imprudent remarks of Minister Wise the day before 
Folsom visited the flag-ship. Wise was the god-father 
at the christening on board the flag-ship, of a child born 
in the fleet of transports during their voyage to Rio 
Janeiro, and spoke of the infant being greater as to 
nationality than the child-princess, who had been 
christened but a short time previous at the Palace. 



582 STEVENSON ADDRESSES HIS SOLDIERS. 

Probably there was unpleasantness between minister 
and government, anterior to the christening incident. 
The Imperial Council met and passed a resolution to 
order the transports, as well as other American ves- 
sels, out of port. Colonel Stevenson, after his ships 
dropped anchor, issued a general order to the regiment 
that one-third of the men should have liberty on shore 
one day ; and on the two next succeeding days one- 
third should enjoy a similar privilege. Colonel Steven- 
son had taken up his quarters on shore and when that 
resolution was passed, he was informed of the fact by 
an English merchant. 

When he heard this he went back to his fleet to 
countermand the order, to avoid any collision between 
the soldiers and the citizens ; and he informed the men of 
the probable difficulty. He instructed the companies to 
prepare themselves to be ready for the emergency, every- 
thing must be in perfect order, and perhaps the next 
time they went on shore, it would be with fixed 
bayonets. As he stated this, the men went aloft and 
manned the yards and cheered him. He visited the 
other two ships and countermanded his order, giving 
the same reasons for doing so. He was also cheered 
from the yards by them ; all of the men being eager 
for a fight. Colonel Stevenson went on shore, and as 
he landed on the mole he was met by many thousand 
people and was asked the reason of the cheering on the 
three ships. He stated the above mentioned facts, and 
told the citizens if the resolution which was passed 



REGIMENT AT SAN FRANCISCO. 583 

should be enforced, he would land one thousand men 
with fixed bayonets, and they would have one thousand 
men worse than so many devils turned loose on them, 
and also have the American naval squadron's batteries 
opened upon the city, under which fire the Emperor's 
palace would inevitably be destroyed. But the Imper- 
ial resolution was never put in force. The Commo- 
dore seeing the commotion on the mole went on shore 
to ascertain its cause and there thanked Colonel Steven- 
son for his action in the matter. 

In leaving Rio Janeiro the " Perkins " sailed directly 
for her destination, and arrived on the 6th of March, 
1847, one hundred and sixty-five days from New York, 
with the Colonel of the regiment and her pro rata of 
the soldiers. After departing from Rio Janeiro the 
" Loo Choo " and " Susan Drew " stopped at Valpa- 
raiso. Both vessels reached San Francisco in the same 
month, but after the arrival of the " Perkins." 

The voyage of the fleet from the Atlantic to the 
Pacific oceans was without any material interruptions 
to mar the comforts of the loads of humanity, who 
enjoyed their sea life of thousands of miles in vessels 
under sail. These troops were the first that ever left 
the Atlantic coast of the United States to go so great 
a distance to a foreign country, to uphold the flag of 
their nation. 



CHAPTER LXI. 

Colonel Stevenson's Arrival at San Francisco — Distribution of Troops — Mormon 
Soldiers — Tranquility of California — Good Work of Commodore Stockton — 
Arrival of Transports — Colonel Stevenson much Esteemed and Popular — 
Death of his Son, Captain Stevenson — Author's Visit to Mount Vernon — 
Patriotic Women of the United States — Isaac Williams — Homes of the 
Hacendados. 

When Colonel Stevenson reached San Francisco 
he found orders awaiting him from General Kearney 
for the distribution of the companies of the regiment, 
which were as follows : Sonoma one, Presidio two, 
Monterey two, Santa Barbara three, and Los Anoreles 
two companies. On the arrival of these companies at 
Los Angeles, they found a battalion of five hundred 
Mormon soldiers, and the latter were turned over to 
Colonel Stevenson's command. *' In July the battalion 
was disbanded. A new company of Mormons was 
organized under Captain Davis, and sent to San 
Diego, and remained there until April or May, 1848, 
when it was mustered out of service. Colonel Stevenson 
took command at Monterey where he established his 
headquarters. Early in June, 1847, he received orders 
from Washington to take command from Santa Barbara 
southward, with headquarters at Los Angeles, to the 
line of the boundary of the Territory newly acquired 
by conquest, during the pendency of diplomatic discus- 
sion over the terms of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, 
which was not ratified until August, 1848. In August, 



TRANQUILITY OF CALIFORNIA. 585 

September and October, 184S, the entire re^^iment was 
mustered out of service, and the soldiers became citizens 
of the new country, and were living under their own flag. 
When Stevenson arrived he found California in a 
state of tranquillity, the result of the good work of 
Commodore Stockton ; a long account of which I have 
given. There is no doubt whatever that Colonel 
Stevenson, arriving as he did soon after the battle of 
the river of San Gabriel, which stamped the naval 
officer as the conqueror and hero of the war, demon- 
strated to the Californians the endless power and re- 
sources of the United States, to perpetuate its authority 
over the conquered country. 

After the disembarcation of the regiment, the three 
ships departed for China, for cargoes of Chinese mer- 
chandise for New York and other Eastern ports. 

The ship " Brutus," Captain Adams, was chartered 
by the government to transport the stragglers of the 
regiment, who had been left behind, and also stores for 
the command at San Francisco. She sailed from New 
York for her destination and arrived in April, 1847. 

The ship " Isabella" sailed from Philadelphia on 
August 1 6th, 1847, with a detachment of one hundred 
soldiers, and arrived at California on February i8th, 
1848 ; at the same time that the ship " Sweden " 
arrived with another detachment of soldiers. 

Before and after war was declared between the 
United States and Mexico, a journey to California 
overland was attended with dangers. The person mak- 



586 VISIT TO MOUNT VERNON. 

ing the journey would feel as if exiled to some foreign 
land. It took from four to six months to accomplish it. 

Colonel Stevenson, durlnof his longf residence in 
California, has invariably won the respect and esteem 
of his fellow citizens by his manly and upright line of 
action. All that he has done has been prompted by a 
fixed principle of honor, probity and integrity. He 
is still in full possession of his mental faculties and exer- 
cises his mind more effectually than do many who have 
not reached his term of years. He has ever been kind, 
courteous and obliging to his friends, and even many 
strangers have cause to be grateful for some benevo- 
lent action on his part. It is to be hoped that he may 
be spared for many years to gladden the hearts of his 
friends by his presence among them. 

I may here remark that his son, Captain Matthew 
R. Stevenson, whom I knew after the arrival of the 
regiment, was a high-minded, brave young officer of 
the regular army. He died at the time of our civil 
war, in 1861, in the service of his country, during that 
eventful period of the nation's life. 

In the winter of 1881-82, I was at the capital of the 
nation. On the morning before Christmas, Mr. James 
B. Metcalfe and myself made a trip to the tomb of the 
Father of his country (Mount Vernon) to view the in- 
teresting relics, that were preserved for our citizens and 
those of other nations to look at, as memorials of General 
Washington. In nearing the wharf that Washington 
used, or the site on which the old one stood in his days, 



RELICS OF GENERAL WASIIlXCiTON. ^^y 

I observed a tall, stout, well-dressed gentleman looking 
at me, while at the same time he approached, and said: 
" Are you a Western man from California ?" I replied, 
•' Yes." He then asked my name which I told him. 
" Oh !" he said, " I was in your stor^ in San Francisco 
many times in 1847 ; I was then a lieutenant in 
Stevenson's regiment and my name is Hollingsworth. 
I will take pleasure in showing you and your friend the 
sights of Mount Vernon." Colonel Hollingsworth was 
the Superintendent of Mount Vernon at that time. 
He went with us to the general's chamber and showed 
us the bedstead on which Washington died ; then to 
the room which General La Fayette had occupied, 
where everything remained just as this noble friend 
of liberty and comrade of Washington had left it. 
The apartment in which Mrs. Martha Washington 
died, was next opened for our inspection, and the 
original furniture stood as she had used it. From > 
the house we went to the tomb of both the husband 
and wife. All of these objects interested us very 
much. Col. Hollingsworth presented us with several 
relics from trees that were planted by General Wash- 
ington's own hands ; for which we were very gratelul 
and expressed our thanks, as well as for the courteous 
attentions he had bestowed upon us, because I was an 
old Californian from the country that he liked, and 
which as he remarked to me, he ho[jed to see again. 
Many years ago some of the energetic and 
patriotic women of the nation formed a company for 



588 PATRIOTIC WOMEN OF THE COUNTRY. 

purchasing Mount Vernon and many relics, as perma- 
nent mementos of Washington, for the people of the 
United States. 

The property was bought from the descendants of 
the historic man for two hundred thousand dollars, by 
two hundred thousand women of the country. 

Isaac Williams was one of those Americans who 
first came to the Department of California, and was 
known by the name of Don Julian, from the similarity 
in sound of Williams to Julian in the ears of the Cali- 
fornians of that time. He gave as one reason of his 
coming here that he wanted to see the setting sun 
in the furthest West. He became the owner of several 
leagues of land and thousands of animals. 

In June, 1846, Don Julian came on board my 
vessel at San Pedro, and I sold him a large quantity of 
goods, the payment for which was to be made in the 
following 1847 7natanza. One exceedingly hot day in 
August, 1847, I visited Don Julian who was busy 
slaughtering cattle for hides and tallow, to meet his 
engagements to different supercargoes on the coast. The 
hacienda Santa Ana del Chino, containing eight leagues 
of land, was situated about thirty miles from where 
Pomona is now located. Don Julian's home was built 
in the heart of a fertile valley, in which were thirty 
thousand horned cattle, sheep and horses. It seemed to 
me like a young Mission with American ideas added 
to the ancient notions of improvements, I found the 
enterprising man in the midst of his matanza, with 



HOMES OF HACENDADOS. 589 

more than a thousand steers slautrhtered. the work to 
be continued until two thousand or more w^ere killed. 
I observed with great interest the try-pots bubbling 
with the melted tallow and iiuDitcca, the latter, the 
delicate fat that lies between the hide and meat of the 
animal. He was preparing this to add to the exports 
of the hacienda. 

His income, say, from two thousand five hundred 
steers killed, would be from the tallow and manteca, at 
six arrobas to each animal, fifteen thousand arrobas or 
twenty-five thousand dollars ; add to this five thousand 
dollars for the hides, the amount would be thirty thou- 
sand dollars. This is an illustration of the incomes of 
the hacendados, proportionate to the number of cattle 
they slaughtered at the matansa season ; exclusive of 
the sales of cattle, horses, wool and sheep. 

The homes of the hacendados were generally large 
dwellings, one-story in height, built of adobes, with 
very thick walls as a protection against the attacks of 
the Indians. The floors in the dwellings of the more 
wealthy class were planked, and the rooms were parti- 
tioned off in sizes to suit the requirements of the fami- 
lies, and furnished with plain, neat furniture, generally 
imported from Boston. The homes of the poor, usually 
had no flooring except the adobe soil, which had been 
stamped and pounded until it was as smooth and hard 
as slate, and resembled it in color. These rooms 
were warm in winter and cool in summer. The build- 
ings were erected on the general plan of the Missions, 



590 SOCIAL HOURS AT HACIENDAS. 

with broad piazzas ; a court-yard was entered through 
a wide passage way, protected by massive wooden 
doors. 

Many of the hacendados Hved in the towns in the 
winter months ; but in the spring of the year their 
households moved to their country homes, where they 
generally remained until the autumn or close of the 
matanza season. 

During these times of dwelling at the haciendas, 
visits were received from the merchants, supercargoes 
and the residents of the towns. They were entertained 
in the most hospitable manner, with picnics in the day 
time to some picturesque spot on the rancho and in 
the evening a family baile was invariably heralded by 
the melody of the violin and harp. I have often been 
a guest at such gatherings, which were the sweetest 
part of my life, and thought these native Californians 
of Spanish extraction, were as a rule, as sincere people 
as ever lived under the canopy of heaven. 

I look back almost two generations ago to those 
merry days with pride and joy, at the kindness which I 
received and the manliness and simplicity of the 
welcome of the fathers of families, and the womanly 
deportment of their wives and daughters, and their 
innocent amusements. 



CHAPTER LXII. 

Missions aiid their Wealth— I lacendados and their Property— Downfall of the 
Missions — Cattle, Horses and Sheep in the Department of California. 

When I was at the port of San Luis Obispo, in the 
bark " Louisa," in the year 1831, the Mission of that 
name was wealthy, with sixty thousand head of cattle 
and thousands of sheep and horses. The great wealth 
of the Missions, while under Spanish and Mexican 
control, in cattle, horses and sheep, will be shown by the 
following enumeration of their live stock, before and 
after their secularization — before and after the year 
1830. 

Mission Sonoma: 30,000 cattle and 1,000 horses 
and mares. The stock on the rancho Suscol before 
mentioned (see page 30) belonged to the Mission. 

Mission of Santa Clara : 65,000 cattle, 30,000 
sheep and 4,000 horses and mares. 

Mentioninof this Mission, recalls to my mind a 
transaction in hides and tallow, with the Fathers Mer- 
cado and Muro, in my earlier dealings with them in 
September, 1844, which showed that the Missions 
acted in unison with each other. I received from 
Father Mercado of the Santa Clara Mission, a letter to 
Father Muro of Mission of San Jose, requesting him 
to deliver to me two hundred hides, which he did, as 
part payment for some goods I had sold the former. I 



592 MISSIONS AND THEIR WEALTH. 

had not pressed the matter at all ; but he said it was 
the same as if he had paid for them himself. 

Mission San Juan Bautista : More than 60,000 
cattle, 2,000 horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. 

Mission San Antonio : Don Jose Abrigo, admin- 
istrator in 1833 and 1834; 10,000 cattle, 500 horses 
and mares, 10,000 sheep. There were 1,000 Indians 
at the Mission. 

Mission San Miguel : 35,000 cattle, 1,000 horses 
and mares and 20,000 sheep. 

Soledad (Mission): 25,000 cattle, 1,000 horses 
and mares and 10,000 sheep. 

La Purisima Concepcion (Mission): 20,000 cattle, 
1,000 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep. 

Mission Santa Ynez : 20,000 cattle, 1,500 horses 
and mares and 10,000 sheep. 

Mission San Fernando: 50,000 cattle, 1,500 
horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. 

Mission San Gabriel : 80,000 cattle, 3,000 horses 
and mares and 30,000 sheep. 

Mission San Luis Rey : 60,000 cattle, 2,000 
horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. 

Mission San Juan Capistrano : 20,000 cattle, 
1,000 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. 

Missionof San Diego : 15,000 cattle, 1,000 horses 
and mares and 20,000 sheep. 

Mission of Santa Barbara : 20,000 cattle, 1,000 
horses and mares and 20,000 sheep. 

Mission San Buena Ventura: 25,000 cattle, 1,500 
horses and mares and 10,000 sheep. 



WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 593 

The following is a list of the solid men of the 
department, anterior to and after the change of govern- 
ment. 

Francisco P. Pacheco : Ranchos San Felipe and 
San Luis Gonzales, about 90,000 acres of land; 14,- 
000 cattle, 500 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep. 
That rich hacendado was a large buyer of merchandise, 
and I sold many goods to him in 1844 and 1845. He 
hauled the hides and tallow from his hacienda, a dis- 
tance of sixty miles, to the embarcadero of Santa Clara, 
now the town of Alviso. 

David Spence : Rancho Buena Esperanza, 25,- 
000 acres of land ; 4,000 head of cattle, 500 horses and 
mares. 

Juan Malarin: Ranchos Zanjones, Guadalupe, Cor- 
reos and Chualar, 8 leagues of land ; 6,000 cattle, 200 
horses and mares, and 2,000 sheep. 

James Watson : Rancho San Benito, 2 leagues of 
land; 2,000 cattle, 100 horses and mares, and 1,000 
sheep. 

Teodoro Gonzales : Rancho SanCenobio or Rincon 
de la punta del Monte ; 5,000 cattle and 300 horses 
and mares. 

Estevan de la Torre : Rancho Escarpines, two 
leagues of land ; 1,600 cattle and 150 horses and mares. 

Estevan Monrass : Rancho Laguna Seca, 3 leagues 
of land ; 3,000 cattle, and 200 horses and mares. 

Feliciano Soberanes : Ranchos Ex Mission Soledad 
and San Lorenzo ; 4,000 cattle, 2,000 sheep and 300 

3S 



594 WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 

horses and mares. This land was the old Mission 
Soledad and pursuant to the law of secularization was 
sold by order of the government. After the arrival of a 
Bishop in California, he called on Senor Soberanes, 
who was ill at the time, and requested him to give back 
to the Church the property above named — ^an advisable 
act, if he, Soberanes, wanted to save his soul. The 
old hacendado replied to the Reverend Father, that 
he had decided to leave the land to his heirs and he 
must decline his request. 

Charles Walters : Rancho Toro, 4 leagues of land ; 
3,000 cattle. 2,000 sheep, 150 horses and mares. 

Sebastian Rodriquez : Rancho Bolsa del Pajaro, 2 
leagues of land ; 2,000 cattle, and 100 horses and 
mares. 

Jose Amesti : Rancho Los Corralitos, 4 leagues of 
land ; 5,000 cattle, 300 horses and mares, and 2,000 
sheep. 

Juan Antonio Vallejo : Rancho Pajaro, 4 leagues 
of land ; 4,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares. 

W. E. P. Hartnell : Rancho Alisal, 2 leagues of 
land; 2,500 cattle and 200 horses and mares. 

James Stokes: Rancho de las Vergeles ; 2,200 
cattle and 100 horses and mares. 

Jose Rafael Gonzales (Pintito) : Rancho San 
Miguelito de Trinidad, 5 leagues of land ; 4,500 cattle,* 
and 200 horses and mares. 

Juan Wilson : Rancho Guilicos, 4 leagues of land ; 
3,000 cattle, and 500 horses and mares. 



WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 595 

Government Rancho Nacional : in Monterey Valley; 
6 leaoues of land ; 15,000 cattle, and 200 horses and 
mares. 

Santiago and Jose Ramon Estrada : Rancho Buena 
Vista, 3 leag^ues of land ; 2,000 cattle, and 200 horses 
and mares. 

Joaquin Estrada : Rancho Santa Margarita, 6 
leagues of land; 4,000 cattle and 300 horses and mares 
and 2,000 sheep. 

Jose Simeon Castro : Rancho Bolsa Nueva y 
Moro Cojo, 8 leagues of land (the present site of the 
city of Castroville) ; 6,000 cattle and 500 horses and 
mares. 

Francisco Rico : Rancho San Bernardo, 3 leagues 
of land ; 3,000 cattle, and 100 horses and mares. 

Jose Abrigo : owner of the following ranches : — 
Punta Pinos, i league of land, now the present site of 
" Pacific Grove;" Noche Buena, near the Hotel Del 
Monte, 2 leagues ; Sausito, i league and San Fran- 
cisquito, 3 leagues. Those ranchos contained 4,000 
cattle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. 

Juan Anzar: Rancho Los Aromitasy Agua Caliente, 
3 leagues of land ; 4,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares 
and 4,000 sheep. 

Charles Walters: Rancho Tularcito ; 1,000 cattle 
and 50 horses and mares. 

William G. Dana : Rancho Nipoma, 32,728 acres 
of land ; 6,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares and 10,- 
000 sheep. 



596 WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 

Joaquin and Jose A. Carrillo : Rancho Lompoc, 
38,335 acres ; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 
i,oOQ sheep. 

Salvio Pacheco : Rancho Monte Diablo, 18,000 
acres of land ; 3,500 cattle, 300 horses and mares and 
4,000 sheep. 

Henry D. Fitch : Rancho Sotoyome, 1 1 leagues 
of land; 14,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 10,- 

000 sheep. 

John A. Sutter : Rancho New Helvetia, 1 1 leagues 
of land; 4,000 cattle, 800 horses and mares and 10,000 
sheep. 

William A. Richardson : Rancho Saucelito, 19,571 
acres of land; 2,800 cattle and 300 horses and mares. 

Rafael Garcia : Ranchos Tomales and Baulinas, 
2 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle and 150 horses and 
mares. 

Ygnacio Pacheco : Rancho San Jose, 6,660 acres of 
land ; 3,300 cattle and 400 horses and mares. 

John Marsh : Rancho Los Mejanos, 4 leagues of 
land ; 5,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares, and 5,000 
sheep. 

Tomas Pacheco and Agustin Alvisu : Rancho 
Potrero de los Cerritos, 3 leagues of land ; 4,000 cat- 
tle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. 

Anastacio Carrillo : Rancho Punta de la Concep- 
cion, 24,992 acres of land ; 4,000 cattle and 500 horses 
and mares. 

Ex-Alcalde Jose Jesus Noe : Rancho San Miguel, 

1 league of land; 2,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares. 



WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 597 

Hilaria Sanchez Read: Rancho Tamalpais, 2 
leagues of land ; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and 
1,000 sheep. 

Juan Temple : Rancho Los Cerritos, 5 leagues of 
land ; 14,000 cattle, 5,000 sheep and 1,000 horses and 
mares. 

Ricardo Vejar : Rancho San Jose, 22,720 acres of 
land; 8,000 cattle and 600 horses and mares. 

Abel Stearns : Rancho Alamitos, 6 leagues of land, 
and other ranchos, amounting to many thousand acres; 
30,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mares, and 10,000 
sheep. 

Juan Abila : rancho El Niguel, 4 leagues of land ; 
9,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares. 

Pio Pico and Andres Pico : Rancho Los Coyotes, 
56,980 acres of land ; in Los Angeles county; 10,000 
cattle, 1,500 horses and mares, and 5,000 sheep ; also 
ranchos Santa Margarita, Los Flores and San Mateo, 
in San Diego county, with many thousand acres of 
land; 10,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mares and 15,- 
000 sheep. 

Carlos Antonio Carillo : Rancho Sespe, 6 leagues 
of land ; 5,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 5,000 
sheep. 

Ygnacio del Valle : Rancho Camulos, 22 leagues 
of land ; 5,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 5,000 
sheep. 

Manuel Dominguez: Rancho SanP edro, 10 leagues 
of land ; 8,000 cattle, 1,500 horses and mares and 5,000 
sheep. 



598 WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 

Bernardo Yorba : Ranchos Santiago de Santa Ana, 
1 1 leagues of land ; La Sierra, 4 leagues : El Rincon, i 
league; those ranchos in all contained 11,000 cat- 
tle, 1,500 horses and mares and 8,000 sheep. 

Agustin Machado : Rancho La Ballona, 13,920 
acres of land ; 10,000 cattle and 600 horses and mares. 

Julio Verdugo : Rancho Los Verdugos, 8 leagues 
of land; 5,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares. 

John Roland and William Workman ; Rancho La 
Puente, 48,790 acres of land ; 5,000 cattle, 500 horses 
and mares and 5,000 sheep. 

Jose Sepulveda : Rancho San Joaquin, 1 1 leagues 
of land ; 14,000 cattle and 3,000 horses and mares. 

Jose Antonio Aguirre : Rancho San Pedro, 2 
leagues of land; 3,700 cattle. 

Jose Loreto and Juan Sepulveda : Rancho Los 
Palos Verdes, 31,600 acres of land; 5,000 cattle, i.ooo 
horses and mares and 5,000 sheep. 

Nazario Dominguez : Rancho San Pedro, 2 
leagues of land ; 5,000 cattle and 300 horses and mares. 

Ygnacio Machado : Rancho Ballona, 13,920 acres 
of land ; 3,600 cattle and 200 horses and mares. 

Antonio Maria Lusi'o : Rancho San Antonio, 1 1 
leagues ; and Chino, 6 leagues of land ; 30,000 cattle 
and 1,500 horses and mares. 

Jose Maria Lugo : Rancho San Antonio; 3,000 cat- 
tle and 500 horses and mares. 

Vicente Lugo : Rancho San Antonio ; 4,000 cattle 
and 400 horses and mares. 



WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 599 

Tomas Yorba : Rancho Santiaj^o de Santa Ana, 8 
leagues of land ; 6,000 cattle, 400 horses and mares and 
4,000 sheep, 

Teodosio Yorba : Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana, 
7 leagues of land ; 4,800 cattle and 500 horses and 
mares. 

Tomas A. Sanchez : Rancho La Cienega ; 2,000 
cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep. This 
hacendado was Sheriff of Los Anofeles county from 
i860 to 1868. 

Jose Noriega and Robert Livermore : Rancho Los 
Positas, 2 leagues of land ; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and 
mares and 2,000 sheep. 

Plujencio and Mariano Higuera: Rancho Aqua 
Caliente, 2 leagues of land; 3,500 cattle, 350 horses 
and mares and 4,000 sheep. 

Antonio Suiiol : Rancho El Valle de San Jose, 51,- 
573 acres of land ; 6.600 cattle, 500 horses and mares 
and 5,000 sheep. 

Agustin Bernal : Rancho El Valle de San Jose, 4,- 
000 cattle, 400 horses and mares and 4,000 sheep. 

Juan Bernal : Rancho El V^alle de San Jose ; 2,300 
cattle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep. 

Tiburcio Vasquez : Rancho Corral de Tierra, i 
league of land; 2, 100 cattle and 200 horses and mares ; 
in San Mateo county. 

P>ancisco Sanchez : Rancho San Pedro, 2 leagues 
of land; in San Mateo county ; 2,000 catde and 200 
horses and mares. 



6oO WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 

Joaquin Ruiz : Rancho La Bolsa Chico, 2 leagues 
of land ; 2,400 cattle and 500 horses and mares. 

Jose Antonio Yorba : Rancho Santiago de Santa 
Ana, 2 leagues of land; 3,200 cattle and 300 horses 
and mares. 

Ramon Yorba : Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana, 2 
leagues of land ; 2,500 cattle and 400 horses and mares. 

Macedonio Aguilar : Rancho La Ballona, 2 leagues 
of land ; 4,800 cattle, 400 horses and mares and 2,000 
sheep. 

Diego Sepulveda : Rancho Los Palos Verdes, 2 
leagues of land ; 2,300 cattle and 300 horses and mares. 

Francisco Sepulveda : Rancho San Vicente, 38,- 
000 acres of land ; 5,000 cattle and 500 horses and 
mares. 

Francisco Ocampo : Rancho San Bartolo, in Los 
Angeles Valley ; 8 leagues of land ; 7,000 cattle and 
350 horses and mares. 

John B. R. Cooper : Rancho Salinas, 3 leagues of 
land ; 6,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares: also 
Ranches Sur, 2 leagues of land, and Bolsas de Potrero 
y Moro Cojo, or La Sagrada Familia, 2 leagues of 
land ; 3,000 cattle and 200 hundred horses and mares. 

Juan Miguel Anzar and Manuel Larios: Ranchos 
Santa Ana, i league, and Ouien Sabe, 6 leagues of 
land ; in San Juan Bautista Valley ; 4,000 cattle, 300 
horses and mares and 4,000 sheep. 

Ygnacio Palomares : Rancho San Jose (Pomona), 
2 leagues of land; 3,000 cattle and 500 horses and 
mares. 



WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 6oi 

Pedro Abila : Rancho El Niguel, 2 leagues of land, 
in Los Angeles Valley ; 3,400 cattle and 300 horses 
and mares. 

Henrique Abila : Rancho Los Cuerbos, 2 leagues 
of land; 2,200 cattle, 300 horses and mares and 2,000 
sheep. 

Jose Maria Abila : Rancho Los Cucirbos, 2 leagues 
of land; 2,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares. 

Antonio Ygnacio Abila : Rancho Sausal Redondo, 
5 leagues of land; 4,500 cattle and 500 horses. 

Andres Pico : Ex-Mission San Fernando, 1 1 
leagues of land; 5,000 cattle, and 500 horses and mares. 
Some years after the secularization of the Mission of 
San Fernando, it became impoverished, and 121,620 
acres of its lands were granted to Eulojio de Celis ; 
probably Pico became a joint owner with him in the 
large tract. 

To enumerate all the ranchos in the department, 
with the live stock on them, would take too many pages. 
I have only mentioned, comparatively, a few or some 
of the more important haciendas, to illustrate their 
great wealth. 

After their downfall, the Missions became destitute 
and the lands were granted b)' the authorities of the 
department to citizens of the young country. Those 
men became stock -raisers, and through the experience 
gained by their observations of management by the 
Fathers, they succeeded in reinstating the lost riches of 
California, which were taken from the missionaries ; 
and they even accumulated more than twofold the 



6o2 California's riches in cattle. 

former wealth of the primitive land. They became ex- 
tensive hacendados, and were inspired by the numerous 
evidences around them, which remained only as monu- 
ments that were fast crumbling away, of the energy, 
perseverance and industry of the good Fathers, in their 
days of plenty and their acquisition of property. 
This they made to enable them to proceed successfully 
in the conversion of the aborigines to Christianity, 
which was the stimulation of the Fathers' immigration 
to this land. 

I may have alluded before to the facts contained 
in the statement, which leads me to make the assertion, 
without fear of a successful contradiction, that the 
Department of California previous to and after the ruin 
of the Missions, in proportion to the population, was 
the richest of any country under Spanish dominion and 
inhabited by citizens of Castilian extraction. 

There were one thousand and forty-five grants of 
ranchos of all sizes made by the governors ; deducting 
from that number- two hundred and forty-five (which it 
is presumed were not stocked with animals) will leave 
eight hundred ranchos, \yhich were probably all stocked ; 
averaging 1,500 head qf cattle to each rancho, and 
making a total of 1,200,000; this was after the Mis- 
sions became poor. There are eighty -seven haciendas 
above mentioned, with an average of 5,310 cattle to 
each. When, in addition, the horses and sheep are con- 
sidered, surely no stronger proof of the assertion as to 
the wealth of the Department of California at that 
period, could be either required or produced. 



CHAPTER LXIII. 

James Alexander Forbes — Record of Arrivals from 1774 to 1847 — Estimate of 
Exports of Hides and Tallow — Conclusion. 

I am indebted to Mr. James Alexander Forbes, 
for the following- list of arriv^als and vessels at California 
ports from 1774 to 1847. Mr. Forbes has been for 
many years past, official goverment translator and 
keeper of the Spanish and Mexican Archives in the 
United States Surveyor General's office, for the District 
of California ; without his aid I could not have obtained 
any data concerning the earlier shipping. 

He is the son of the well known pioneer, James 
A. Forbes, who, during his lifetime, was esteemed and 
respected by all who had social and business relations 
with him. J. A. Forbes, Jr. was educated in Santa 
Clara College, and being a master of several languages, 
obtained the position of Official Translator of the laws 
of California, in the years 1867, 1868, 1869, 1870; he 
has the reputation of being the n,iost accurate translator 
and fluent interpreter in the State. His father came 
to California in the year 1829; he was British Vice- 
Consul for many years. He married a native Califor- 
nia lady of Castilian descent ; he was a highly educated 
gendeman speaking the English, Spanish aiitl French 
languages with great accuracy and fluency ; it was very 
entertaining and instructive to listen to his conversa- 



604 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

tion. During his consulate, his official acts gave satis- 
faction to his government, and his private life was 
irreproachable. His death occurred in 1881, at the 
ripe age of 79 years ; leaving a family of ten children. 

1774- 
San Carlos. 

Principe, July, 24. 

1776. , 

San Carlos. 

San Antonio, June 6th. 

Principe. 

1778. 

San Carlos arrives on the coast July 22. Order 

for vessels that bring supplies to take back salt, March 

8th. 

1779. 

San Carlos arrives at San Diego Feb. 15. 

Princesa and Favorita anchored in the Bay or Port 
of San Francisco on the 15th of September, 1779. 
The vessels belonged to His Majesty King of Spain 
and came on an exploring expedition under command 
of Don Ygnacio Ortega. They reached up to 65° and 
some minutes north latitude and did not goto 70° north 
latitude as ordered because the coast turned to the south. 
Garland (Spanish brig) captured by an English man of 
war, June 7th, 1779. 

1783. 

San Carlos, June, 2. 

Favorita, July 27. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 605 

1784. 

Favorita, Spanish man of war, October 25th. 

1786. 

Spanish Frigate Aranzazu, Feb. i ith, Santa Lucia, 
June 7th, Favorita, Sept. 29th, Princesa, Sept. 21st, 
Spanish war ships, with materials for Presidio buildings. 
Order prohibiting passengers on board vessels to 
carry more than 2 pounds of tobacco, October 5th. 

1787. 

Astrolobe and Bonssole, anchored at Monterey, 
with La Perouse, the explorer, April 12th. 

Princesa, at Monterey, Feb. 27th. 

Aranzazu, January 6th. 

Brugula, Jan. 6th, Astrolavio, Jan. 6th, French 
vessels. 

San Carlos, Sept. 29th. 

1788. 

San Carlos, Sept. 7th. 

Princesa, at Santa Barbara, Oct. 8th. 

Frigate Aranzazu, Dec. 21st, came into port and 
Mateo Rubio, a soldier, was wounded by the firing of 
a cannon. 

1789. 

Frigate Aranzazu at Santa Barbara, Oct. 2. 



6o6 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

I79I. 

Aranzazu, August 22d. 

Princesa, October 24th ; saw unknown vessel in 
distress in Pichilingue Bay. 

Princesa (Spanish P>igate) arrived at Loreto with 
NaturaHst Jose Longinos Martinez and Jaime Senseve, 
Botanist, to make collections for the Museum of Natural 
History, October 25th. 

Aranzazu (Spanish Frigate), Juan Bautista Matirte, 
Captain. He says to the Governor of the Department : 
" By last advices from the Court of Madrid, which I 
delivered at Nootka, it appears that the King does not 
wish that port to be abandoned." Monterey, June 12th. 

Aranzazu, Juan Hendrick, Captain ; January 25th. 

Frigate Concepcion at anchor in Nootka harbor 
with Ramon Antonio Sadvedra, March 7th. 

1794. 

Princesa, January 17th. 

Sutil, February 28th. 

Mexicana. February 28th. 

Arrival of Vancovers expedition on the same date, 
Feby 28th. 

Frigate Concepcion, April 26th. 

Mexicana at San Francisco, June loth. 

The Frigate Concepcion wrecked off Pichilingue 
Bay, Lower Cal., July 5th. 

Saturnina, August 5th. 



RECORDS OI-" ARRIVALS. 607 

Sloop Horcasitas, August 29th. 

Concepcion in San Diego, Dec. 17th. 

Chattam, at Monterey, Nov. 2ncl. 

Discovery, at Monterey, Nov. 5th. 

Aranzazu, Oct. 2 2d, at Santa Barbara ; at 
Monterey Nov. T4th. 

Unknown English vessel at Santa Cruz, Novem- 
ber 30th. 

English launches arrived at Santa Cruz and pre- 
cautions were taken to prevent men from landing 
November 30th. The English launches depart and 
cause no disorder ; December ist. 

Frigate Aranzazu, bound for Nootka from 
Monterey, July 12. 

Discovery, (Eng. ship) with Vancouver on board. 
Exposition under Vancouver arrived the second time 
on November 6th. 

Catham, (Am. ship) Peter Pudget, master. 

1795- 

Resolution, (Eng.) Feb. 6th. 

Achilles, (Eng.) May 22nd. 

Phenix, (Eng.) Sept. loth. 

Aranzazu, September 23rd. 

Resolution, (Eng.) at San Diego, Oct ist. 

Active, (Eng. war vessel) with an English Com- 
missioner on board, March 3rd. 

Resolution, (Eng. manof war) Captain Juan Lochc. 
seeking supplies that were furnished September 6th. 



608 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

1796. 

Spanish Frigate Concepcion from Manila, anchored 
at Santa Barbara, July 25th. 

Sloop Loreto, July 25th. 

Sutil, arrived July nth. 

Providence, (British man of war) W. Broughton, 
Commander, at Monterey. 

1797. 

American ship , Captain Dows forcibly 

put on shore eleven foreigners from his vessel, Oct. 6th. 

Paquebot S. Carlos, wrecked and lost in the harbor 
of San Francisco, March 23rd. 

Concepcion and Princesa, (Spanish frigates) have 
come to guard the ports of California, March 7th, and 
April 13th. 

Magallams, Spanish vessel at Santa Barbara, Dec. 

5th. 

Goyconhea, commander of Santa Barbara (Spanish 
war vessel) keeps guard up and down the coast, to see 
if they can discover the " Fama," but see nothing. 

San Carlos, April 14th. 

Unknown large vessel seen off the coast, May 23rd 

Three more large vessels seen off the coast, May 
nth. 

Spanish Frigate Princesa, at Santa Barbara, 
May 27. 

Several vessels sighted off the coast, July 4th. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 609 

Frigate Princesa seen off the coast of San Diegro, 
July 22nd ; and the same vessel at San Diego. Octo- 
ber 20th. 

I 79S. 

Fama, (Am. ship) January 7th. 
Brig Active, March 31st. 
Magallams, March 31st. 
Otter, Captain Ebenezer Dow. 
Concepcion, October 19th. 

1799. 

Eliza, Captain James Rowan, June 12th. 

Eliza, (Eng. ship) Jas. Rowan, captain, writes to 
Pedro Alberin, Comandante of San Francisco, about 
getting wood and water, Nov. loth. 

Mercedes, (Eng. sloop of war) at San Diego, July 

6th. 

1800. 

Betsy, (Am. vessel) at San Diego Aug. iith. 
Nuestra Senorade la Concepcion, Spanish frigate, 
Aug. 25th. 

Princesa (Spanish frigate,) Aug. 25th. 

1801. 
Enterprise, (Am. vessel) at San Diego, July 3rd. 

1803. 

Alexander (Am. vessel) John Brown capt., at 
San Diego, Mar. 13th. 
39 



6 10 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Mexican schooner San Joaquin, and Lelia Bird, 
(Am. vessel,) in San Diego June 20th. 

Santa Ana, (Mex. schooner). 

Calatina, 12 guns and 62 men was ordered off 
the coast, but did not go Oct. 15th. 

Alexander, (Am.) Captain Brown, Feb. 7th. 

Lelia Bird, (Am.) Captain \A\ Shater, at San 

Diego Feb. 15th. 

1804. 

O'Kain, (Am. vessel) 60 men, 15 canoes, 5 boats, 
and 16 guns, w^ent into San Ouentin for repairs and 
provisions, when ready was ordered off the coast, but 
stayed until she had killed all the otter from Rosario 
to Santo Domingo. Mar. 24th, O'Kain, captain. 

Hazard, Sept. 6th. 

Active, (Eng. man-of-war) Sept. 13th. 

Racer, (Am.) lands soldiers at Ensenada. 



1806. 



O'Kain, (Am.) Jose O'Kain, master, in San 
Luis Obispo Jan. 2nd. 

Racer, (Am.) at San Diego July i6th. 

Juno, (Russian ship) Resanofif, captain and agent 
of Russian-American Fur Company, at San Francisco 
Apr. 1 6th. 

Peacock, (Am.) the captain captured three Spanish 
soldiers that were rescued by giving up four American 
prisoners. Monterey, July 15th. 



RECORDS OK ARRIVALS. 6ll 

1807. 

Racer, (Am.) at San Diego, July 25th. 
Alteta, Captain Caleb Winstep. 

1813. 

Mercurio, June 19th, captured by Nicholas Noe, 
captain of the Flora, (Spanish war vessel) detained 
at Santa Barbara until Sept. 3rd, following. Jorge, 
captain of the Mercurio. 

1814. 

Isaac Todd, Captain Frazer Smith, Feb'y 21st. 
Raccoon, (Eng.) Captain W. Black, March 29th. 

1815. 

Columbia, July i8th. 

1816. 

Rurick, (Russian ship) Kotreben, captain, May 5th. 

Coronel, (Eng. ship) October loth. 

Extraordinary proceedings of the Lelia Bird, 
(Am. ship.) She was taken, off the Refujio Rancho 
near Santa Barbara, by Californians, who sailed with 
her to Monterey, with Captain Henrique Garcelay, 
her master, on board, February 5th. 

The Governor of the Department sets the Lelia 
Bird free ; she was an American smuggler, March 9th. 

Ship Albatross, smuggler, Captain W. Smith, 
January 25th. 



6l2 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Rubio, Kalzule, Rurick, Russian, October 15th. 

Soovaroff, Cherescoff, Ermenia, Russian ships, at 

San Francisco, Sept. i6th. 

Eagle, (Am. ship) at Refujio, Wm. Heath Davis, 

owner and captain. 

1817. 

Caminante, Captain W. Smith Wilcox, Mar. 13th. 

La Cazadora, (Spanish frigate) September 30th, 
at Monterey. 

Paduskin, a Russian officer, came to San Fran- 
cisco with small boats with a letter from St. Peters- 
burg to the Governor, April loth. 

1818. 

San Ruperto, (Spanish ship) with all the crew 
sick with the scurvy, arrived at Monterey, February 
14th. 

Argentina, Santa Rosa, Hypolite Bouchard, cap- 
tain, insurgent vessels or privateers, Nov. 22nd. 

1819. 

Cosack, (ship) brings Captain Pablo de la Portilla, 
with troops from Mazatlan, August 17th. 

San Carlos, (Spanish ship) with munitions of war, 
etc., to Monterey, Aug. 25th. 

Reyna de los Angeles, Aug. loth. 

Reyna de los Angeles, at San Diego, September 6th. 

1821. 
Frigate Rita. 

Brig San Francisco, Xaveir, Oct. 8th. 
British frigate May 30th. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 613 

1822. 

Aguila, (Am. schooner) seized by the Govern- 
ment for smuggling, August ist, and sold at auction 
at Santa Barbara, Nov. 8th. 

San Carlos. March loth. 

Apollo, Dec. 19th. 

1823. 
Apollo, Jan. 20th. 

Am. ship Eagle, Captain William Heath Davis. 
Tartar, July 24th. 
Buldacoff, (Russian) Aug. 31st. 
Apollonia, Sept. 25th. 
Am. ship Massachusetts, Oct. 6th. 
Mentor, Nov. 12th. 

1824. 

Buldacoff, Jan. 8th. 

Juan Begg, John Lincoln, master, Sept. 25th. 

Buldacoff, Aug. 12th. 

Rosanio, Sept. 25th. 

Predpreyatic, Oct. 8th. 

French man of war Creiser, Dec. 2nd. 

Reina, Dec. loth. 

1825. 

Eng. brig Eliza. 
Am. brig Arab. 

Spanish man of war Aquiles, P. Augulo, com- 
mander. 



6l4 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Morelos, formerly San Carlos, Flaminio Agoevini, 
commander. 

Pizarro, Eng. brig. 

Am. schooner Rover, J. B. R. Cooper, master. 

Espeleta. 

Juan Battey, John Burton, master. 

Russian Brig Elena, Moraviof, master. 

Am. Whaler, Ploughboy, Chadwick, master. 

Schem, (Am.) W. A. Gale, master. 

Maria Ester, (Mex. brio-) Davis, master. 

Eng. ship Bengal. 

Apollo, whaler, at Santa Cruz. 

Merope, (Eng. ship) supposed to be the Espeleta. 

Kiaklta, (Russian brig). 

Juminis, (Eng. brig) Carter, master. 

Asia, Spanish man of war, 70 guns, 400 men, Jose 
Martinez, commander, surrendered at Monterey to the 
Mexican authorities. 

Constante, Spanish man of war, surrendered with 
the above, and re-named Apalonia. 

Factor, (Am. whaler) John Alexis, master. 
Spy, (Am. schooner) George Smith, master. 

Nile, (Am. brig) Robert Forbes, master. 

Recovery, (Eng. whaler) W. Fisher, master. 

Tartar, (Am. schooner) Benj. Morrell, master. 

Santa Rosa. 

Snow. 

Ticnechmack, (Am. brig) John Michi, master. 

Washington, (Am. schooner) Robert Elwell, master, 
A. B. Thompson, supercargo. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 615 

Huascar, (Peruvian brig) J. M. Oyague, master, 
W. E. P. Hartnell, passenger. 
Whaleman, whaler. 
Tomasa. 

Triton, Jean Opheme. master. 
Thomas, \V. Clark, master. 

1826. 

Sirena brought money to California. 

Solitude, (Am. ship) Chas. Anderson, master. 

Blossom, (Eng. exploring) Beechy, commander. 

Gen. Braro, (Mex. brig) ]\Ielendiz, captain. 

Washington, whaler, Wm. Kelly, master. 

Argony, (Russian brig) Inestrumo, master. 

Paragon, (Am. whaler) Don Edwards, master. 

Olive Branch, (Eng. brig) W. Henderson, master. 

Santa Apolonia, (Mex. schooner) Manuel Bates, 
master, Sanchez Ramar, supercargo. 

Timorlan, (Haw. brig) seal and otter hunter at 
Santa Barbara. 

Peruvian, (Am. whaler) Alex. Macy, master. 

Mero C. (Am. ship) Bacelo Juan, master. 

Mercury, (Am. whaler) W. Austin, master. 

Baikal, (Russian brig) Benseman, master. 

Waverly, (Haw. brig) \V. G. Dana, master. 

Harbinger, (Am. brig) J. Steel, master. 

Charles, Am. whaler. 

Adams, (Am. ship) Danl. Fallon, master. 

Speedy, (Eng. Ship). 



6l6 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Courier, (Am. ship) W. Cunningham, master. 
Jonre, (Haw. brig). 

Thomas Nolan, (Eng. ship) W. Clark, master. 
Cyrus, (Am. schooner David Hariens, master. 
Theresa Maria, (Am. ship) W. Gulnac, master. 
Alliance, (Am. ship). 

1827. 

Blossom, (exploring expedition) Beechy, com- 
mander. 

Harbinger, (Am.) J. Steele, master. 

Olive Branch, (Eng.) W. Henderson, master. 

Andes, Seth Rodcjers, master. 

Paraiso. 

Solitude, J. Anderson, master. 

Thomas Nowlan J. Wilson, master. 

Carimaca. 

Magdalena. 

Temega. 

Oliphant. 

Maria Esther, David J. Holmes, master. 

Huascar, J. M. Oyague, master. 

Waverly, T. Robbins, master. 

Sachem, W. A. Gale, master. 

Ochotsk, D. Zarambo, master. 

Massachusetts. 

Isabella. 

Heros, A. Dubrante Ceille, master. 

Sp), George Smith, master. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 617 



Grion. 

Young Tartar. 

Golovlnia. 

Taniaackmaah, j. Michi, master. 

Favorite. 

Baikal, Etholin, master. 

Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master. 

Cadboro. 

Concrete. 

Tomaso. 

Courier, W. Cunningham, master. 

Fulham, H. Kimond, master. 

Washington, R. Ewell, master. 

1828. 

Phenix, W. Ratiguende, master. 
Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master. 
Clio, W. Williams, master. 
Vulture, B. Barry, master. 
Funchal, S. Anderson, master. 
Sucre, Melendez, master. 
Grifon, C. Pitnack, master. 
Andes, Seth Rodgers, master. 
Verale, W. Deny, master. 
Fulham, H. Kimond, master. 
Kiathkla. 
Laperin. 

Rascow, W. Fisher, master. 
Guebale, T. Robbins, master. 



6l8 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS, 

Harbinger, J. Steele, master. 

Courier, W. Cunningham, master, 

Arab. 

Heros, A. Duhante Cille, master, . 

Baikal, Etholin, master. 

Minerva, D. Cornelio, master. 

Huascar, J. M. Oyaque, master. 

Karimoko. 

Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master, 

Telemachus, J. Gillespie, master. 

Emily, Mareham. master. 

Washington, R. Elwell, master. 

Temis, W. Ross, master. 

Brillante, Waverly T. Robbins, master. 

Maria Ester, Dav. J. Holmes, master. 

Pocahontas, J. Bradshaw, master. 

Okolilsk, D. Zarembo, master. 

Solitude, J. Anderson' master. 

Wilmantic, J. Bois, master. 

1829. 

Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master. 
Andes, Seth Rodgers, master. 
James Coleman, Hennul, master. 
Maria Ester, H. D. Fitch, master. 
Volunteer, W. S. Hinckley, master. 
Susana, Levain, master. 
Rosalia, Bruno Colepsodriguer, master. 
Ann, Burnie, master. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 619 

American. 

Indian. 

Vulture, Rich. Barry, master. 

Funchal, Steven Anderson, master. 

Dolly, W. Warden, master. 

Planet, G. Rutten, master. 

Joven Angustias. 

Baikal, Benseman, master. 

Alvino. 

Kiatka. 

Wilmington, John Bon, master. 

Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master. 

Warren, W. Rice, master. 

Santa Barbara, Waverly T. Robbins, master. 

Okotsk, D. Zarembo, master. 

Washington, W. Kelly, master. 

Tridunt, Felix Esterlin, master. 

Brookline, W, A. Gale, master. 

Tumachmach, J. Michi, master. 

1830. 

Lenor, H. D. Fitch, master. 
Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master. 
Maria Esther, J. A. C. Holmes, master. 
Ayacucho, Joseph Snook, master. 
Cyrus, David Harriens, master. 
Seringapatam, grounded on Blossom Rock. 
Whaleman, Joseph Ruddock, master. 
Globe, Moore, master. 



620 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Catalina, C. Christen, Eulojio de Cells, supercargo. 

Pocahontas, John Aradshap, master. 

Dambe, Sam Cooke, master. 

Planet, John Butter, master. 

Washington, R. Elwell, master, carried horses to 
the vSandwich Islands. 

Chalcedony, Joe Steel, master. 

Emily, took prisoners to Santa Barbara. 

Volunteer, W. S. Hinckley, master; carried 
Joaquin Solis and his suite as prisoners to San Bias 
(banished). 

Brookline, Jas. O. Lake, master. 

Convoy, (Am. brig) Perkins, master. 

Funchal, Steven Anderson, master. 

Jura. 

Dryad, from Columbia river. 

1831. 

Luisa, (Am. bark) George Wood, master. 
Fibian, trades on the coast. 
Ayacucho, John Wilson, master. 
California, W, A. Gale, supercargo. 
Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master. 
Guadalupe, California built schooner by Jose Chap- 
man at San Pedro. 

Wm. Little, Harry Carter, master. 
Marcus, N. S. Bassett, master. 
Baikal, Livorich, master. 
Globe, Moore, master. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 62 I 

Whalehound, whaler. 
Pochontas, Bradshaw, master. 
Catalina, Holmes, master, brouo^ht Government 
stores, and also Governor Jose Figueroa, in 1833. 
Whaleman, whaler. 
Convoy (Am. brig) Perkins, master. 
Urup, D. Zarembo, master. 
Margarita, carried]. M. Paores from Monterey. 
Volunteer, Jos. O. Carter, master. 
Dryad, brought Doctor David Douglas, botanist. 
Fanny, whaler. 
Harriet, whaler. 

1832. 

Chalcidony, J. Steel, master. 
Don Quixote, (Am. bark) J. Meek, master. 
New Castle, Stephen, master. 
Balance, Ed. Daggett, master. 
Planet, sailed from Boston with the California. 
California, W. A. Gale, master. 
Spy. 

Urup, D. Zarembo, master. 
Crusader, (Am. brig) Thos. Hinckley, master. 
Josephine, W. A. Richardson, master ; lost at 
Santa Catalina Island. 

Polefemia, Bradshaw, master. 
Transquilina, Geo. Prince, master. 
American, whaler, Nov. 
Victoria, Brewer, master. 



^^^ RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Bolfver, Nye, master; all men sick with the 
scurvy ; carried horses to the Sandwich Islands. 

Ayacucho. John Wilson, master ; the fastest vessel 
on the coast up to the time she was beaten by the 
Volunteer, in 1833. 

Joven Victoriano, September. 

Pocahontas, Bradshaw, master. 

Waverly, W. Sumner, master. 

Rosana, Frank Thompson, master. 

Wm. Thompson. Stephen Potter, master. 

Anchovite, whaler. 

Phebe, whaler. 

Friend. L. B. Blendenburg. master. 

Catalina, (Mex. brig) J. C. Holmes, master 
Friend, L. B. Blendenberg, master. 
Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master. 
North America, N. Blanchard, master. 
Roxana, F. Thompson, master. 
Polefemia, Bradshaw, master; she carried away 
•Oov. Victoria and Padre, Peyri, in 1832. 
Isabel. J. C. Albert, master. 
Helvetius, (Am. whaler). 
Dryad, (Eng. brig). 
Bolivar, Dominus, Master. 
Layada, J. Bradshaw, master. 
Facio, Santiago Johnson, master. 
Crusader, Thos. Hinckley, master. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 623 

Enriqueta, Lewis Young. 

Kitty, (Am. whaler). 

Leonidas, formerly U. S. Dolphin, J. Malarin, 
master. 

General Jackson, (Am. whaler). 

Albert, Fancon, master. 

Harriet, Blanchard Carter, master. 

Don Quixote, John Meek, master, \V. S. Hinck- 
ley, supercargo. 

Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master. 

Fakeja, R. Smith, master. 

Ayacucho, Stephen Anderson, master. 

Margarita, (Mex. schooner) Baikal Livovich, 
master. 

Volunteer, Shaw, master. 

Charles Eyes, (Eng) B. T. Chapman, master. 

Santa Barbara, (Mex) T. M. Robbins, master. 

California, (Am. ship) Jas. Arthur, master. 

1831. 

Facio Santo, Johnson, master. 
Lagoda, J. Bradshaw, master. 
Clarita, (Mex. bark). 

Avon, (Am. brig) \V. S. Hinckley, master. 
Morelos, (Mex. sloop of war) Lieut. L. ¥. Manso, 
commander. 

By Chance, Hiram Covell, master. 
Pacifico, consigned to J. A. Aguirre. 
Joven Dorotea, Benito Machado, master. 



624 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Crusader, W. A. Richardson, master. 

Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master. 

Ayacucho, J. Wilson, master. 

Europe, properly called Urup, D. Zarembo, 
master. 

Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master. 

California, (Am. ship) Jas. Arthur, master. 

Natalia, (Mex.) Juan Gomez, master. 

Polefemia, N. Rosenburg, master. 

Llama, W. M. Niel, master. 

Don Quixote, J. Meek, master. 

Magruder, W. Taylor, master. 

Refujio, (Mex.) built at San Pedro. 

Bonanza, (Eng. schooner) 

Margarita, (Mex.) 

South Carolina, Joe Steel, master, 

Peores Nada, (Better than Nothing) Ch. Hibbard, 
master. 

Feighton. 

Pulga. 

Steriton, Whaler. 

Tansuero, L. Amist, master. 

Wm. Sye, D. A. Riddle, master. 

Marta, Tim W. Ridley, master. 

Rosa, (Sardinian ship) Nie Bianchi, master. 

1835, 

Ganza, H. Chondiere, master, 
lolani, Jas. Rogers, master. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 625 

Catalina, R. Marshall, master. 
Maraquita, Ag. Poncabaro, master. 
Pilgrim, Ed. H. Fancon, master. 
Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master. 
Facio. James Johnson, master; grounded at San 
Pedro, and was saved by the Pilgrim. 
Ayacucho, James Scott, master. 

Matador, consigned to John Parrott. Leon Bon- 
nett, master. 

Framner. 

Alert, (Am. ship) Fancon, master. 

Lagoda, Bradshaw, master. 

Peores Nada; built at Monterey, by Joaquin 
Gomez. 

Garifilfa. 

Clementina (Eng. brig) Jas. Hanley, master. 
Liverpool Packet, (Eng. whaler). 
Diana, (Am. [brig). 

California, (Am. ship) Jas. Arthur, master. 
Avon. (Am. brig) W. S. Hinckley, master. 
Juan Jose. (Peru, brig) consigned to Miguel 
Pedrorena. ^ 

Bolivar, (Am. brig) Dominis, master. 

Leonar, H. D. Fitch, master. 

Margarita. 

Polefencia, N. Rosenberg, master. 

Washington, whaler. 

Sitka, Basilio Wacodzy, master. 

Maria Teresa, (Mex. brig). 

40 



626 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Trinidad, (Mex. brig). 

Rosa, Aia Bianchi. 

Prima vera, (Mex. brig) Carlos Baric, owner and 

master. 

1836. 

Hector, (Am.) Norton, master. 
Leonidas, (Mex.) Gomez, master. 
Loriot, (Am.) J. Bancroft, master. 
Isabella (Haw.) N. Spear, owner. 
Peores Nada, Gerald Kuppertz, master. 
Pilgrim, Fancon, master. 

Convoy, otter hunter, (Am. brig) Bancroft, master. 
Sitka, (Russian) Basil Wacoocky, master. 
Peacock, (U. S. sloop of war) Stubling, com- 
mander ; flag-ship of Commodore Kennedy. 
Brison, (Eng.) 

California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master. 
Rasselas, (Am. ship), Carter, master. 
Europa, (Am. ship) Winkworth, master. 
Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master. 
Rosa. 
Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master. 

1837- 

City of Genoa, (Chilian) at Monterey in December. 
Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master. 
Baikal, (Russian) Stephen Toaks, master. 
Alciope, (Am. ship) Curtis captain. 
Harvest, (Am.) A. Cash, master. 



RECORDS OK ARRIVALS. 627 

Loriot, Otter hunter, (Am. brig) Bancroft, captain. 

Diana, (Am. brig) W. S. Hinckley, captain. 

Clementina, (Eng. brig) Handley, captain. 

Indian, (Eng. whaler) Freeman, captain. 

Nancy, (brig) Fautrel, captain. 

Llama, (Eng.) W. Brotchie, captain. 

Sarah, (Am. brig) Joseph Steel, captain. 

Voloz Asturiano, (Ecuador) C. V. Gatan, captain. 
A'^enus, (French corvette) Petit Thonars, captain. 

Starting, (Eng. war vessel) Lieut. Kellet, com- 
mander. 

Sulphur, (Eng. war vessel) Edward Belcher, com- 
mander. 

Boliver, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master. 

lolani (Haw. schooner) Paty, master. 

Toward Castle, (Eng.) Emmett, master. 

Pilgrim, (Am. brig^ Fancon, master. 

Crusader (Columbian) came from Callao. 

Leonor, (Mex.) Chas. Walters, captain. 

Cadboro, (Eng.) W. Botchie, captain. 

California, (Mex. schooner) H. Paty, captain. 

Kent, (Am. bark) Stickney, captain. 

True Blue, (Haw.) Ragadate, captain. 

Delmira, (Ecuador) Vioget, captain, M. Pedrorefia, 

supercargo. 

1838. 

Fearnaught, (Eng. brig) R. Dare, captain and 
owner. 

Nereid, (Eng.) W. Brotchie, captain. 



628 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Kamamalu, (Am. brig) formerly Diana, W. S. 
Hinckley, captain. 

Alert, (Am. ship) Penhallow, master. 

Cadboro (Eng.) 

Plymouth, (Am. bark) Paty, master. 

Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master. 

Kent, (Am. bark) Stickney, master. 

Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master. 

Leonidas, (Mex. brig) Juan Malarin, master. 

Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, master. 

Flibberty Gibbett, (Eng. schooner) Rogers, master. 

Daniel O'Connell, (Columbian) Andres Murcilla, 
master. 

Sitka, (Russian) Wacoocky, master. 

California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master. 

Rasselas, (Am. ship) Barker, master. 

Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master. 

Clarita, (Mex. bark) Chas. Waters, master. 

Venus, (French man of war) October. 

Commodore Rogers, wrecked Nov. 19th. 

Blossom, (Eng. man of war) Belcher, commander,. 
December. 

1839- 

Monsoon, (Am. ship) Vincent, master. Shaw, 
supercargo, June 2nd. 

Ayacucho, (Eng. brig). 

Corsair, (Am. brig) Wm. S. Hinckley, captain 
and supercargo, with full cargo of merchandise ; brought 
the first grist-mill for Spear, from Callao. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. b2g 

Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master. 
Clarita, (Mex. bark) Walters, master. 
Catalina, (Mex. bark) Snook, master. 
Baikal, (Russian). 

California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master. 
Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, master. 
Clementine, (Eng. brig) Blinn, master. 
Artemiz, (French frigate). 
Maria, (whaler). 
Elvantes, (Peruvian). 
California, (Mex. schooner). 

Sulphur, (Eng. man-of-war) Belcher, commander. 
Juan Jose, (Ecuadorian brig) Duncan, master, 
Pedroreiia, supercargo. 

1840. 

Daniel O'Connell, (Peruvian). 

U. S. sloop of war St. Louis, Forrest June, com- 
mander. 

Alciope, (Am. ship) Clapp, master. 

Nicolai, (Russian) Kuprianoff, master. 

Joseph Peabody, (Am. brig) Dominis, master. 

Union, (Am. schooner). 

Lausanne, (Am.) Spalding, captain. 

Juan Jose, (Columbian brig) Thos. Duncan, mas- 
ter. 

Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master. 

Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master. 

California, (Mex.) T. M. Robbins, master. 



630 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Monsoon, (Am. ship) Geo. Vincent, master. 
Elena, (Russian) S. Vallivade, captain. 
Angelina, (French ship) N. Jena, captain. 
Morse, (Am. schooner) Henry Paty, captain. 
Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, captain. 
Forager, (Eng.) 

Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, captain. 
Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty, captain. 

184T. 

Joven Carolina, (Ecuadorian brig) from Guayquil, 
Captain Miguelon, March — 

Maryland, (Am. schooner). 

Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master. 

Juan Diego, (Mex. schooner). 

Llama, (Am.) Jones, captain. 

Orizaba, (Mex. transport). 

Hamilton, (Am.) Hand, captain. 

Cowlitz, (Eng. bark) Brotchie, captain. 

Lausanne. (Am.) Steel, captain. 

Yorktown, U. S. man-of-war, Antick, commander. 

Bolina, (Mex. schooner) trading on the coast. 

Flying Fish, (Am.) Knox, master. 

Lahaina, (Eng. whaler). 

U. S. ship Vincennes, flag-ship of Commodore 
Wilkes exploring expedition. 

y. S. brig Porpoise. Reingold, commander, at- 
tached to the " Vincennes" (exploring expedition.) 
The sloop of war Peacock of the same expedition 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 63 1 

was lost on the Columbia River bar, and her officers 
and crew were rescued by the other vessels before 
mentioned. 

Columbia, (Eng. bark) Humphries, master. 

JuHann, (Am. schooner) from New York, Leides- 
dorff, master. 

George and Henry, (Am. bark) Stephen Smith, 
owner and master, 

Eliza, French whaler, Malherbe, master. 

Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master. 

Catalina, (Mex. brig) Chris. Hansen, master. 

Chato, (Mex. brig) Machado, master. 

Tasso, (Am. bark) Hastings, master. 

Bolivar, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master. 

California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper, 
master. 

Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty. master. 

Clarita, (Mex. bark) Walters, master. 

Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, master. 

Leonidas, (Mex. brig) Stokes, master. 

1842. 

California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper, 
master. 

Primavera. (Mex. brig) A. Chienes, master. 
Llama, (Am.) Jones, master. 
Index, (Eng. bark) Wilson, master. 
Esmeralda. (Mex. brig) Hugo Reid, master. 
Fama, (Am. ship) Hoyer, master. 



632 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Constante, (Chilian ship) F. Una Mano, master. 

BoHvar, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master. 

United States, Commodore Jones's flag-ship, Cap- 
tain Armstrong, commander. 

Cyane, (U. S. ship of war) Stringham, com- 
mander, 

Palatina, (Mex.) came from the Mexican Coast. 

Relief, (U. S. store ship) J. Sterrett, commander. 

Tasso, (Am. bark) Hastings, master. 

CataHna, (Mex. brig) Hansen, master. 

Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, master. 

Jenny, (Hamburg ship) John Mein, master. 

Republicano, (Mex. brig) Machado, master. 

Joven Famita, (Mex. schooner) Limantour, master. 

Joven Guipuzcoana, (Mex. bark) Snook, master. 

Fernanda, (Mex. brig). 

Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty, master. 

Clarita, (Mex. bark) Walters, master. 

Chato, (Mex. ship) brought General Micheltorena 
and landed him and his troops at San Dieg-o. 

o 

Juliann, (Am. schooner) Liedesdorff, master. 
Maryland, (x^m. brig) Blinn, master. 
Alex. Barclay, (German whaler). 
Barnstable, (Am. ship) Hatch, master. 
California, (Am. shipj Arthur, master. 

1843. 

George and Henry, (Am. bark) from Peru, with 
Mrs. Smith, her mother and Manuel Torres, as passen- 
gers, Stephen Smith, master. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 633 

Fanny, Feby. ist. 

Don Quixote, (Am. bark) John Paty, master, 

Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master. 

1844. 

Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master. 
Constantine, (Chilian ship) Feb. 27th. 
California, (Mex. Government schooner^ Cooper, 
master. 

Sterling, (Am. ship) Vincent, master, March 29th. 

Julia, Dalton, master. 

Juanita, (Eng. schooner) Wilson, Oct. 11. 

Fama, (Am. ship) G. H. Nye, master. 

Trinidad, Oct. 1 1. 

Clarita, (Mex. bark) J. Vioget, master, Sept. 5th. 

California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master. 

1845. 

California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master. 
Joven Guipuzcoana, (Mex. bark) Orbell, master. 
Tasso, (/Vm. bark) Hastings, master. 
Maria, Dec. 19th, F. W. Holmes, master. 
Matador, Natchin, master, Oct. 30th. 
Cowlitz, (Eng. bark) Brotchie, master. 
Primavera, (Mex. brig) Chienes, master, May 23rd. 
Julia, Dalton, master, Sept. 29th. 
Star of the West, lost off Monterey Bay (already 
mentioned). 

Argo, whaler, Oct. 23rd. 



634 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 

Fama, (Am. ship) G. H. Nye, master, May 28th 

Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master. 

Juanita, (Eng. schooner) Wilson, master. 

Clarita, (Mex. bark) J. Vioget, master. 

Catalina, (Mex. brig). 

Farisco, Indart, master, Oct. 2nd. 

1846. 

Don Quixote, (Haw. bark) John Paty, master, 
March loth. 

Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Thos. Russom, master, 
March 31st. 

Moscow, (Am. bark) W. D. Phelps, master, 
March loth. 

Alfredo, March 2nd. 

Angola, (Am. bark) S. Varney. master, June 17th. 

Fanny, whaler, Feby. 3rd. 

Hannah, (Am. brig) March 25th. 

Maria Teresa, May iith. 

California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper, 

master. 

1847. 

Commodore Shubrick, (Am. schooner) July 6th. 
T. H. Benton, (Am.) July 21st. 
Anas, (P>ench) July 21st. 
Providence, (Am. schooner) July 24th. 
Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Russom, master, November. 
Joven Guipuzcoana, (Mex. bark). 
Barnstable, (Am. ship) Hall, master. 



RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 635 

Matilda, (Danish). 
Mary Ann, (Haw. schooner). 
Laura Ann, (Eng. schooner). 
William, (Am. brig). 
Eveline, (Am. brig). 
Primavera, (Mex. schooner). 
Malek Adhil, (Am. brig). 
Maria Helena, (Chilian vessel). 
Commodore Shubrick, (Am. schooner) November 
13th. 

Anita. (Am. bark). 

Tonica, (Am. schooner). 

Henry, (Am. brig). 

Currency Lass, (French schooner). 

Elizabeth, (Am. brig) Cheevers, master. 

Angolo. (Am. bark) S. Varney, master. 

T848. 

Laura Ann, (Eng. brig). 

Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Russom, master. 

Malek Adhil, (Am. brig). 

Charles, (Am. ship) David Carter, supercargo. 

Natalia, (Chilian bark) Juan Manuel Luco, super- 
cargo and owner. 

S. S. (Haw. schooner). 

Lady Adams, (Am. brig) Coffin, supercargo. 
James Lick came in her as a passenger from Callao^ 
Peru. 

Eveline, (Am. brig). 



636 EXPORTATIONS. 

Starling, (Haw.) 

Anita, (Am. bark) Quarter- master's vessel. 

Louisa, (Haw.) 

La Flecha, (Spanish). 

Adelaida, (Chilian). 

Providence, (Am. schooner). 

Mary, (Haw schooner). 

After the receipt of the list of arrivals of vessels 
from Mr. Forbes, it reminded me of revising my 
former estimate on pages 376 and 2^']'], of the exports 
of hides and tallow from 1828 to 1847, a period of 
twenty years, of thirty-three vessels with cargoes in the 
aggregate of 1,068,000 hides. I have taken the year 
1800, the time the missions were fairly started in the 
raising of live stock, down to their impoverishment ; 
but the enterprise was continued by the hacendados in 
the only wealth of the department as already men- 
tioned. I find in the list before me, that the vessels 
were numerous, which visited California in those primi- 
tive days. I have taken the years 1800 to 1847, and 
I find the arrivals were six hundred vessels of all sizes 
and nationalities. In my conjecture I take only two 
hundred of them, which is certainly a liberal deduction, 
and allow to each one thousand hides exported yearly. 
This will give a total of 9,400,000 hides for two hun- 
dred vessels for forty-seven years. The tallow that 
was exported during the same period would be two 
arrobas for each hide, giving a total of 18,800,000 ar- 
robas of tallow. I think it perfectly accurate to esti- 



REVISED ESTIMATES. OT^y 

mate the exportation of hides and tallow for forty- 
seven years at 5,000,000 hides and 10,000,000 arrobas 
of tallow, a deduction of nearly one-half from the first 
calculation, but not the increase of cattle on 600,000, 
900,000 and 1,200,000 head at different periods of the 
forty-seven years as will be observed. In other words, 
the cattle which were killed yearly as an income to the 
department, kept those animals from over-running- the 
immense territory of over seven hundred miles of 
coast. Probably my first figures are the most correct 
of the two estimates. 

The readers can judge for themselves which of 
the two will give the most knowledge concerning those 
articles which constituted the leading commerce in the 
primitive days of the Department of California. 

Anterior to the year 1800 there were many cattle 
slaughtered by the missions ; surely the hides and 
tallow as articles of commerce from time immemorial, 
were not thrown to the wild beasts of the forest to 
feed on, but were bought by merchants and traders and 
shipped to different parts of the world, as the memo- 
randum of shipping on my table, will fully attest. 

In the multiplicity of matters upon which I have 
written, I have unintentionally omitted to narrate the 
manner in which the merchants generally kept their 
gold. Among the receptacles for the gold dust were 
tin pans, tin pots and also a vessel used as a piece of 
furniture for the sleeping apartments. The bright 
metal was placed in those after being weighed, and a 



638 VIGILANCE COMMITTEE. 

tag attached on which was marked the number of 
ounces. 

As I am closing my work, it is but proper to make 
a few remarks in reference to the Vigilantes of 1856. 
The subject has been written upon so often, that I 
deem it would be a repetition to write of the exciting 
scenes then enacted to save life and property, from the 
ruffians who infested and controlled the city of San 
Francisco, in carrying out their evil designs a gener- 
ation ago. The men who composed the Vigilance 
Committee were determined to demonstrate to the 
whole country that San Francisco was and is as now 
an American town, and that her citizens were to 
perpetuate that title at that critical period of her history 
for all time to come. They did their work well ; and 
restored order and obedience to the law of the land. 

The citizens who came forward to the rescue, 
deserve the everlasting gratitude of the people of the 
Pacific coast 

In calling to mind incidents in which my old 
associates were connected, the act of doing so has 
revived many personal circumstances which though 
not needed in the book were pleasing ; also many scenes 
of enjoyment with those who have departed from life 
and will be seen no more. Such events have awakened 
at times, mournful sensations, for 

" There is many a lass I've loved is dead, 

And many a lad grown old ; 
And when that lesson strikes my head, 

My weary heart grows cold." 



CONCLUSION. 639 

Other remembrances have brought back happy 
associations with friends, and seasons past ;■ between 
the gladness of some and the sadness of others, there 
arise sentiments, which, in the language of Ossian, 
*' Like the swaying of the wind in the pine tops, are 
pleasing and mournful to the soul." 

Corrections : On page 320 the death of \V. D. M. 
Howard's first wife occurred in 1849 instead of 1850. 
His second marriage took place in the autumn of 1849 
not in 1850, as stated in the succeeding paragraph. 

On page 227 " The North Star," should read 
'' Star of the West." 



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